ReefSpectrum P47

by

ReefLEDLights

www.reefledlights.com

309-533(LED)-7333(Reef)

Table Of Contents

1. Overview

2. Product Description

3. Setup

4. Apex Programing

5. Acclimation

6. FAQs

7. Warranty

8. Accessories

Overview The ReefSpectrum P47 was direct result of the success

of our Phoenix DIY Kits. Under Captive Reef Ecosystems

we were one of the first companies to successfully

propagate SPS corals in our indoor facility using only

LEDs. Over the years we’ve experimented with different

LED combinations and makes. We’ve even tried a few

imports. The Quality and Efficiency of the Cree LED

makes it an industry leader. Cree Bins its LEDs as each

lot has a slightly different spectrum. We choose the best

bins and to ensure we receive only the bins we order we

domestically source our LEDs. This and using only the

best components like our Hyperon Driver, Carclo Optics,

Oversized Heatsink puts us at the top in efficiency,

performance, reliability and looks. Please follow the

acclimation process carefully as our fixture targets coral

photosynthesis and is brighter than advertised.

Product Description ReefLEDLights Reefspectrum P47 Light

-Dimensions 18 1/4″ X 9 1/2″ X 3 3/4″

-Fully dimmable with the Max Intensity (PAR) between a

250 and 400 watt MH.

-LEDs are specifically binned for optimal looks and

performance.

-Driven by three of our own highly reliable, high

efficiency 40 watt Hyperon Drivers.

-Dimmable from 20-100% intensity

-Fans are super quiet rated for 50,000 hours.

-Optics are Carclo for optimal penetration and

performance.

-Controllable via optional manual controller “Dim Box”.

-Controllable via ReefKeeper, Profilux, APEX or any 1-

10vdc analog input.

-With no controller Fixture defaults to 97% Intensity

-Colour Temp 10-20K depending on intensity setting

-Perfect for SPS and Clams

-No Kidding direct replacement for a 250 watt MH or

400 watt Radium. Measured Uncorrected PAR @ 24″

over 460

-Power consumption 118 Watts with twice the PAR of

generic 120 watt Chinese Fixtures and 40% more

efficient than Hybrid ones.

Components:

24 Premium XT-E Royal Blue

6 XP-E Blue

15 Premium XT-E Cool White

2 XP-E Blue Moon Light

Note: Hanging Kit or Dim Box are not included.

3 year warranty Parts and Labor

Proudly MANUFACTURED IN USA

Designed By ReefKeepers for Reefkeepers

Warning: If replacing Power Compact or T5 Lighting

please dial this light back. Once acclimated your corals

will have the best intensity and spectrum available in a

LED Fixture.

Tank Size Number of Fixtures Notes

29g (30″x12″x19″) 1 5

40g Breeder (36″x18″x17″) 1 1,5

40g Long (48″x13″x17″) 2 5

50g (36″x18″x18″) 2 5

75g (48″x18″x21″) 2 5

90g (48″x18″x24″) 2 5

120g (48″x24″x25″) 2 2,4,5

125g (72″x18″x23″) 3 5

150g (72″x18″x25″) 3 5

180g (72″x24″x25″) 3 2,4,5

210g (72″x24″x28″) 3 2,4,5

330g (72″x36″x30″) 4-6 2,3,5

Notes:

1-Must hang slightly higher reduced light on edges

2-Mount forward angle towards back to optimize spread

3-Two rows

4-Perpendicular to back

5-Parallel to back

Setup Our line of factory fixtures were designed to be plug and

play and easy. If you have any questions before you

start please contact us at sales@reefledlights.com.

1- Mounting the fixture. There are 2 open 8-32 screw

holes on each endplate for mounting. 4 8-32 EYE Bolts

are included. Ensure you screw the EYE Bolt at least

¼” and tighten the supplied nut. If you choose our

optional Grip Lock Hanging kit use the supplied 8-32

screw and hand tighten. This is an aluminum

endplate to do not over torque.

2-Once your fixture is securely hanging over your tank connect

the 12 DC Powersupply next to the Power Cords. It is very

important this Powersupply is functioning and is powering the

fans whenever the Fixture is powered.

There is a red LED light on the Powersupply, ensure this is

illuminated and the fans and moonlight are also working…DO

NOT OPERATE THE FIXTURE IF THE FANS ARE NOT WORKING…

The fans are super quiet, high efficiency and rated for 50,000

hours or 11 years at 12Hours a day. Over time depending on

individual conditions, Dog Hair, Cat Hair, Moose Hair, Dust or

Salt may impede their operation. Periodically use a No CFC

Aerosol Computer Duster to clean out any debris caught in the

fans. As long as the Fan Powersupply is powered the moon

lights will be on. This minimizes the amount of cords and plugs

needed. Total draw is less than 1 watt for fans and moonlight.

This and two extra outlets (one for the Blue Chanel and one for

the White Chanel of LEDs) is all you need to operate your

Fixture.

3-Our current drivers support almost any form of 1-10vdc

analog dimming. We chose the Hyperon Driver for its reliability

and efficiency. At its lowest setting the fixture will produce only

20% of its max rated output. To simulate a natural sunrise and

sunset we recommend having the Blue Chanel coming on and

turning off 30 minutes before and after the White Chanel. This

allows for the tank inhabitants a gradual wakeup. When using

our Manual controller simply attach the 12vdc Powersupply to

the Dim Box and attach the Powersupply adapter from the Dim

Box along with the RJ45 cable. The 12vdc power is now split

between the potentiometers and the fans. If you running a

controller with moonlight simulation simply program the fan

powersupply port to come on with the moonlights as well as

the main lights. This will be noted in the APEX section.

Note: THE FANS MUST BE OPERATING ANY TIME THE MAIN

LEDs ARE ON. DO NOT FORGET TO PROGRAM THEM ON…

NOTE: ENSURE THE FANS AND MOONLIGHTS ARE RUNNING

WHEN THE 12VDC POWERSUPPLY IS POWERED.

APEX Programming Our Fixture is 100% compatible with almost any controller

providing a 1-10vdc Control Input. The APEX can be difficult to

work with thus the APEX community of online users. Our goal is

to keep this simple and have you up and running in a matter of

minutes. More complicated programing such as cloud

movement can be simulated and said programing can be found

online.

1-The step is to have your APEX online and ready for

programing. As soon as this is accomplished the following steps

will take only a matter of minutes. If you are having problems

with the initial please contact Neptune or its support forums to

get started. If you are still having issues our lights default to the

97% ON when not connected. This allows you time for

programing. Please keep in mind proper acclimation as our

Fixture targets the photosynthesis in zooxanthellae algae and

are brighter than advertised. If you do not have our Dim Box

Raising the lights or old school bug screens work to lower the

light until proper acclimation.

2-The next step is to connect the APEX or VDM to the VS ports

of either the Mother Unit or the VDM. Ensure the Fan

Powersupply is also connected.

Note: The same RJ45 cable can be connected to the APEX main

Unit. The APEX JR Requires the VDM

3-The following programming is the same we use on our system

and are our own screen shots. The basics are solid and the

variables like on off time can be changed. If you have any

questions concerning the programing of our Fixture please

contact us. With general questions concerning APEX Setup or

problems please contact Neptune or their online help forums.

3a-Identify the VS or VDM Ports in the outlet setup. You can

also Identify EB8 outlets the same way.

Connect the P47 to the APEX VS1 Port. In the Apex Status page

use the Manual On and Manual Off function to Identify the

Outlet. When Manual On the Light will be 100% On. In Manual

Off the Light will be at its lowest setting or about 20%. Then go

to the Outlet Set Up Page under Configuration and Label the

Outlet. We called our Blue Chanel 570Blue and the White

Chanel 570White. Now proceed to the next step.

3b Outlet setup

Programing is straight forward. In the above example, between

08:30 and 10:30 the APEX commands the lights to do what’s

outlined Profile 1. From 10:30 to 18:30 the light is 100% on.

From 18:30 to 20:30 the APEX commands the lights to do

what’s outlined in Profile 2.

We specifically designed this fixture around our Hyperon

Driver. This provides industry leading reliability and a failsafe. If

the controller fails or you choose not to use a controller, the

driver defaults to On. Also the lowest setting is 91mA or 13%. In

other words to turn off the light you must also turn off the

outlet. You must now Program EB8 outlets. We recommend

that you dedicate three outlets. One for the FAN/Moonlight

Power Supply (This must be ON whenever the next two are on),

One for the Blue Chanel, and One for the White Chanel. If you

have a large tank and are using multiple lights you can still use

only three outlets if you incorporate 3 UL power strips. Then

next step is to identify the proper outlet as outlined in step 3a.

Once identified, Program the outlet in a similar manner. We

chose the standard light programing.

You can name you outlets anything. We simply chose

BluLED_10_5 as we have a large system with multiple EB8s and

this keeps things organized.

3c Profile Setup is rather easy. Simply go to Profiles Setup

under Configuration and create PF1 and PF2.

Profile 1 or PF1 is the sunrise. With the control type Ramp

chosen choose your time. We chose 120 minutes or a two hour

sunrise. By choosing 0 for start the light starts at its lowest

setting or about 20% and ends at its highest intensity or 100%.

Profile2 or PF2 is sunset in this example. At 18:30 the light

starts at 100% and ends two hours later at 20%. Then the outlet

turns off.

Note: Refer to the Acclimation section for acclimation programing

Acclimation Acclimation is key to a successful transition to new lighting.

Depending on the type and age of your old lights you may need

to do a modest acclimation or a more aggressive one. Some

reefkeepers have complained that after their transition from

four T5 to LEDs their corals started to bleach…Yes this is true as

it would be true of one upgraded four T5 to a 400 watt MH.

Bleaching is the process of the corals expelling excess

zooxanthella algae. Corals are highly adaptable and given

proper nutrients can survive within a wide range of lighting

intensity. The zooxanthella algae use the light for

photosynthesis. The more light the more photosynthesis. One

byproduct of photosynthesis is oxygen. Too much oxygen is

toxic so the coral adjust by regulating the amount of algae

within its tissue. If the light is too strong to fast the coral react

by expelling too much algae which leaves them starved for

nutrients.

How much is too much light? Photo inhibition starts around

500PAR above this the light is blocked by pigments. A cloudy

March day in the Peoples Democratic Republic of Chicago gave

me a PAR reading of 770. A sunny day at the equator would be

much more. Most agree that 100PAR on the sandbed would be

a minimum. We like to see at least 200 for Clams. The next pic

is from Fossa & Nilsen and depicts Intensity v Time on a Reef.

To best replicate the natural light found on the Reef we prefer

high intensity for only a couple hours…High Noon…In our show

tanks we found this method leads to outstanding growth along

with the electrical savings of not running you light at 100% for

12 hours.

The best way to begin acclimation is to start with a baseline.

We highly recommend using a PAR Meter to measure the

output of you old lights then adjust the new lights to the same

reading. This cam be done manually with the Dim Bix or

through the APEX by modifying the Profile Programming. If you

cannot borrow or rent a PAR Meter you can come close using a

SLR Camera. Focus on a reference spot and record the

exposure. Then with the new lights adjust them down to the

same exposure. This method is not approved by us as using a

PAR meter is best, but it’s a lot better than guessing or

TLAR…That Looks About Right. If you do choose this method be

safe and dial the fixture back a little more.

Now that the lights are adjusted how much do I turn them up?

There is a lot of debate on this and our official response is its up

to you as each coral is different. That said 10% per week has

worked well for people who purchased our lights.

Once your up to 100% you will find your corals growing better

and faster than before. This of course is as long as you water

quality, flow and nutrient export are solid.

Acclimation is very important and our Fixture is brighter than

advertised as it directly targets marine photosynthesis. If you

have any questions please contact us…sales@reefledlights.com

FAQs 1. LEDs are brighter than advertised proper acclimation is

key.

2. I did not acclimate properly what do I do now that my

coral started to bleach?...Move the coral lower or dial back

the lights. Feed the coral appropriate food, LPS brine

shrimp, SPS and other coral Oyster Eggs, CoralsCaptive-E,

Coral Frenzy or Cyclop-eeze.

3. How many Lights can run off 1 VDM?...Two with out a Link

Box 8 with a two Link Boxes.

4. How Bright is the P47?...A little more PAR than a 400 watt

Radium MH.

5. How Long do the LEDs Last?...They will produce at least

75% of their brightness after 50,000 hours.

6. How often should I clean the fan?...Whenever it gets too

dusty.

7. Is the fixture water resistant?...NO…If you drop the fixture

in salt water all is not lost…Immediately unplug it, open it

up an rinse it off with RO/DI water. Then dry it with a hair

dryer. Salt will eventually erode the LEDs as long as the

fixture. Ensure everything is dry before even thinking of

plugging it back in. Hopefully things will work if they do

you might want to replace the fans to be safe. If not we

can replace the necessary parts.

Warranty We offer on of the best in the industry. Three Years Parts and

Labor. All you have to do is send the fixture back to us. Please

insure it.

Salt Water Damage, Abuse and Mayhem are not covered.

For shipping info please contact us at sales@reefledlights.com

Accessories -Dim Box: Allows for manual dimming of both the Blue and

White Channel without the expense of a controller.

Uses existing Powersupply and includes RJ45 Cable and Power

Cable.

Link Box: Control up to four Fixtures in parallel using a single

APEX Port or Dim Box.

RJ45 and Power Cables are not included.

Hanging Kit: Provided by Grip Lock. Moisture resistant capable

of safely hanging our fixture in drywall. Fully adjustable and

four axis.

RJ45 Cable: Used to connect the APEX or Dim Box to the Fixture

Power Cable: Used from the Dim Box or Link Box to the fixture.

Power Supply: Used to power the Fans and Moon Lights.

Note: Included with each fixture