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Lindsay Brown, Joe Bindloss, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, Sarina Singh
Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra
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Rajasthanp38
Agra & theTaj Mahal
p197
Delhip148
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra’s Top 12 . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14First Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Month by Month . . . . . . . .21Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Travel with Children . . . . 30Wildlife Watching . . . . . . 32Regions at a Glance . . . . 35
RAJASTHAN . . . . . . . 38Eastern Rajasthan . . . . . 39Jaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39Bharatpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Alwar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park . . . . . . . . . 69Patan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Ajmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Ranthambhore National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 79Karauli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Udaipur & Southern Rajasthan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Bundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Kota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Jhalawar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Chittorgarh (Chittor) . . . . . 89Udaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Mt Abu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Northern Rajasthan (Shekhawati) . . . . . . . . . . 111Nawalgarh . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Jhunjhunu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Fatehpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Mandawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Jaisalmer, Jodhpur & Western Rajasthan . . . . . 117Jodhpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
MIK
AD
UN
/ SH
UT
TE
RSTO
CK
©
AMBER FORT P61
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Contents
Kichan & Phalodi . . . . . . . 127Nagaur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Jaisalmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Bikaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
DELHI . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Activities & Courses . . . . 169Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 184Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 187Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
AGRA & THE TAJ MAHAL . . . . . . . 197Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Activities & Tours . . . . . . .206Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 211Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Fatehpur Sikri . . . . . . . . . . 214
Rajasthan Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Rajasthani Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Sacred India . . . . . . . . . 239
Arts, Crafts & Architecture . . . . . . . . . 244
Rajasthani Food . . . . . . 252
Naturally Rajasthan . . . 257
Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . . . 264
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 266
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .291
SURVIVAL GUIDE
AMBER FORT P61
KA
WIN
K / S
HU
TT
ER
STOC
K ©
CAMELS OUTSIDE JAISALMER P132
SPECIAL FEATURESWildlife Watching . . . . . . 32
Jaipur Lazy Days . . . . . . 45
Forts of Rajasthan . . . . . .91
Rajasthan’s Coloured Cities . . . . . . . 135
Arts, Crafts & Architecture . . . . . . . . . 244
UNDERSTAND
Itineraries
PAKISTAN
UttarPradesh
INDIA
Fatehpur Sikri
Agra
Jaipur
DELHI
Amber
KeoladeoNational Park
É
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The Golden Triangle
One route is so well loved it even has a name: the Golden Triangle. This classic Delhi–Agra–Jaipur trip can be squeezed into a single week and gives a tantalising taste of the splendours of Rajasthan.
Spend a day or two in Delhi finding your feet and seeing the big-draw sights, such as the magnificent Mughal Red Fort and Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Then catch a fast train to Agra to spend a day being awed by the Taj Mahal and the mighty Agra Fort. Only an hour away is Fatehpur Sikri, a beautiful Mughal city dating from the apogee of Mughal power. It can be visited on the way to Bharatpur, in Rajasthan, where you can enjoy a natural respite from the cities at Keoladeo National Park, one of the world’s foremost bird reserves. Having relaxed and recharged with nature, you can now take a train to Jaipur. Spend a couple of days in and around Rajasthan’s hectic, dusky-pink capital, seeing the City Palace and Amber Fort and stocking up on blue pottery, daz-zling jewellery and Rajasthani puppets before heading back to Delhi.
1 WEEK
24©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
With a fortnight to spare, you can forget triangles and go all out for a multifaceted loop taking in Rajasthan’s most spectacular cities, all erstwhile capitals of former princely states, boasting fairy-tale palaces and formidable fortresses.
You will most likely start from the nation’s capital of Delhi to see the Mughal monu-ments, such as the massive Red Fort. No trip to India is complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal at Agra. Spend two days here viewing the Taj during the day, at night and from the maze-like Agra Fort. Spend a day exploring the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri, before heading to Keoladeo National Park for birdwatching. Next stop is the pink city of Jaipur, where you will want to spend two or three days exploring the palaces of Jaipur and Amber and the shopping bazaars of the Old City.
From Jaipur, head to the sacred lake of Pushkar, where you can release your inner hippie or attend the camel fair. Move on to the romantic lake-town of Udaipur, visit-ing the rambling City Palace and the impressive Jagdish Temple as well as doing some shopping, relaxing on rooftops, and peering at the lake and its famous floating palace. From Udaipur, head towards the extraordinary, bustling, blue city of Jodhpur. Take time to stop at the milk-white Jain temple complex of Ranakpur and the isolated, dramatic fortifications of Kumbhalgarh – as they are fairly close together, you can visit them en route to Jodhpur within a day. In Jodhpur, visit the spectacular Mehrangarh, a fort that towers protectively over the city like a storybook fortress.
Next take an overnight train to the Golden City, Jaisalmer, a giant sandcastle in the desert, with its beautiful Jain temples and exquisite merchants’ havelis (traditional, ornately decorated mansions). Take a short camel safari through the bewitching land-scape of sweeping dunes and sleep under the stars. If you have the time on your way back to Delhi, break your journey with a stop in the desert city of Bikaner, home of the impregnable Junagarh Fort and nearest city to the famous rat temple of Deshnok. From Bikaner catch one of several trains back to Delhi.
2 WEEKS
Ranakpur
Pushkar
Fatehpur Sikri
Deshnok
Kumbhalgarh
Jodhpur
Agra
Udaipur
Jaisalmer
Bikaner
Jaipur
DELHI
UttarPradesh
INDIA
PAKISTAN
KeoladeoNational Park
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Royal Rajasthan
25PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
Ine
ra
rIe
s
A month will allow you to explore Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan to their fullest extent, with plenty of time to linger along the way whenever a particular destination takes your fancy.
After arriving in Delhi and exploring the city sights, take the train down to Agra to gaze at the picture-perfect Taj Mahal, explore Agra Fort and have a day trip out to the abandoned Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri. To experience Rajasthan’s wild side, head to the World Heritage–listed birdwatching paradise of Keoladeo National Park, where the sheer numbers of nesting birdlife will astound you. This can be followed by a tiger safari at Ranthambhore National Park, one of your best bets in all India for spotting a tiger.
Take a Kota-bound train southwest for a stop at the charming settlement of Bundi to explore the crumbling palace and its magical art. From here it is a short train ride to Chittorgarh where one of Rajasthan’s most impressive fortresses occupies a mountain plateau. Next stop is Udaipur, where you can relax after your travels with a few easy days of sightseeing, elegant dining and souvenir shopping.
From Udaipur it’s worth side-tripping to Mt Abu to see the extraordinary Delwara Temples before going north to Jodhpur. Alternatively, head north to Jodhpur, stop-ping on the way to see the magnificent fort at Kumbhalgarh and the Jain temples of Ranakpur. From Jodhpur it’s an easy train or bus ride to Jaisalmer, the desert town with a romantic, picturesque fort rising from the golden sands. Here you can spend a few days exploring havelis and temples, before taking an overnight camel trek into the desert. After Jaisalmer, head east across the desert to Bikaner.
Travel south from Bikaner, stopping at the fascinating rat temple of Deshnok before coming to rest at the sacred pilgrimage town of Pushkar. At Pushkar you may be in time for the famous camel festival; otherwise, just put your feet up for a few days and soak up the serenity.
From Pushkar, it’s a short hop to Jaipur, with its fabulous citadel at Amber and great shopping. Head north to Shekhawati for a few days, inspecting havelis at Mandawa, Nawalgarh and Fatehpur, before returning to Delhi.
4 WEEKS
UttarPradesh
InDIa
PaKIstan
Ranakpur
Pushkar
Mt Abu
FatehpurSikri
Deshnok
Mandawa
Chittorgarh
Bundi
Fatehpur
Jodhpur
Agra
Udaipur
Jaisalmer
Nawalgarh
Kumbhalgarh
Bikaner
Jaipur
DELHI
KeoladeoNational
Park
RanthambhoreNational Park
sHeKHaWatI
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A Month-Long Sojourn
26
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
er
ar
Ies
4 DAYS
The fabulous frescoes of Shekhawati can be scouted out in three or four days by moving between three or four of the region’s towns. A bonus is the chance to stay in restored havelis once inhabited by prosperous trad-ers, and to explore the backstreets on foot.
Nawalgarh is only a couple of hours’ drive from Jaipur and offers accommoda-tion ranging from thatch-roofed rural huts to grand and luxurious havelis. There’s even a palace. Base yourself here to visit restored havelis and museums; don’t forget to wander around and discover the fading gems on lesser-known, crumbling havelis.
From Nawalgarh head north to Man-dawa. Mandawa can lay claim to the most accommodation options suited for travel-lers, including a grand castle, and it also has several havelis worth a look for their whimsical murals of 18th-century life.
West of Mandawa, is the dusty hamlet of Fatehpur, a town now famed for its restored Le Prince Haveli, where French artist Nadine Le Prince rejuvenated the frescoes and hosted visiting artists. It is now an inviting boutique hotel amid a town of deteriorating yet tantalising treasures.
4 DAYS
Painted Shekhawati
Temples abound in Rajasthan. These in-clude Hindu and Jain edifices, plus mosques, gurdwaras and a scattering of churches. Here are some of the more noteworthy.
Starting in Jaipur, there’s the popular Ganesh Temple that sees scores of worship-pers every Wednesday. Other temples in Jaipur include the Govind Devji (Krishna) Temple inside the city palace, and Galta the ‘monkey temple’, swarming with monkeys.
Ajmer boasts one of the most important Sufi shrines in the world, the Dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, and the fas-cinating Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red) Temple; its unremarkable exterior hides a fantastical golden diorama depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world. Pushkar has one of the very few temples devoted to Brahma.
At Udaipur, the Hindu Jagdish Temple is always a riot of colour and fervent worship-ping, while up at Mt Abu, the intricately carved Delwara Temples are Jain master-pieces. The Chaumukha Mandir in Ranak-pur and Mahavira Temple in Osian can be visited on the way to Jaisalmer, whose fort shelters several finely carved Jain temples. Last on the list is Karni Mata, the rat tem-ple of Deshnok, south of Bikaner.
3 WEEKS
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Mt Abu
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Udaipur
JaisalmerJaipur
Ajmer
FatehpurMandawa
Nawalgarh
Osian
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Sacred Rajasthan
27PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
Ine
ra
rIe
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•#•#
the
Karn
i Mat
a te
mpl
e (a
ka th
e ra
t te
mpl
e) a
t Des
hnok
, 30k
m s
outh
of
Bika
ner,
is n
ot fo
r the
squ
eam
ish.
th
e pl
ace
is c
raw
ling
with
rode
nts
…
and
you
have
to re
mov
e yo
ur
shoe
s to
ent
er! (
p146
)
DES
HN
OK
•#•#
the
dese
rt to
wn
of O
sian
, bet
wee
n Jo
dhpu
r and
Jais
alm
er, s
ees
far f
ewer
vi
sito
rs th
an th
ose
tour
ist h
otsp
ots.
Ca
mel
saf
aris
to v
illag
es a
nd d
une
cam
psite
s ar
e au
then
tic a
nd s
tres
s-
free
. (p1
26)
OSI
AN
###•##•#
•#•#
the
tiny
tow
n of
Pat
an li
es o
ff th
e m
ain
Delh
i–Ja
ipur
hig
hway
and
is
abou
t hal
fway
bet
wee
n th
em. t
he
form
er p
alac
e ha
s be
en re
stor
ed in
to
a re
laxi
ng ru
ral r
etre
at w
here
you
can
es
cape
the
fren
zy. (
p71)
PATA
N
•#•#
#•#•##•#
Busy
alw
ar d
oesn
’t se
e a
lot o
f tou
rist
traf
fic, d
espi
te it
s pr
oxim
ity to
sa
riska
. tak
e th
e tim
e to
vis
it on
e of
ra
jast
han’
s m
ore
inte
rest
ing
mus
eum
s. (p
66)
ALW
AR
5
•#•#
the
extr
aord
inar
y bu
ildin
gs a
nd
gard
ens
that
com
pris
e su
raj M
ahl’s
Pa
lace
are
an
insi
ght i
nto
priv
ilege
an
d an
eas
y de
tour
bet
wee
n Bh
arat
pur a
nd a
lwar
. (p6
8)
DEE
G
#ë
#÷
#÷
#ë
#÷
#ë
THAR
DESER
TD
ELH
I DEE
G
Kol
ayat
Kot
putli
Lodh
ruva
Naw
alga
rh
Nok
ha
OSI
AN
Pha
lodi
Raj
garh
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garh
Ram
garh
Sam
NAG
AUR
Poka
ran
DES
HN
OK
Chu
ru
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anga
rhM
anda
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daip
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mra
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ber
Jaip
ur
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sa
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ratp
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gra
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lpur
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ark
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ve &
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k
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chan
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Sanc
tuar
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HAR
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K I S
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N
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bhar
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ra G
andh
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alSh
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the
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ten
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ck -
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asth
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iles
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28
PLAN YO
UR TRIP OFF T
HE B
EA
TE
N T
RA
CK
44
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•#•#
##•••#•##•##•##•#
Off t
he to
uris
t tra
il, y
et w
ith a
cam
el
and
catt
le fe
stiv
al to
riva
l Pus
hkar
’s,
Naga
ur p
rovi
des
an a
uthe
ntic
tast
e of
Ra
jast
han
and
the
chan
ce to
sta
y in
an
upm
arke
t hot
el in
a fo
rt. (
p128
)
NA
GA
UR
••#•##•#
####•##•##•##•#
The
intr
igui
ng g
host
city
of B
hang
arh
was
des
erte
d th
ree
cent
urie
s ag
o, b
ut
is s
tran
gely
wel
l pre
serv
ed a
nd
infa
mou
sly
haun
ted.
(p69
)
BH
AN
GA
RH
##•##•##•#
The
imm
ense
, for
gott
en fo
rt a
t Gag
ron
rest
s at
the
conf
luen
ce o
f tw
o riv
ers
reac
hed
by n
arro
w v
illag
e ro
ads;
an
d yo
u ca
n st
ay in
roya
l spl
endo
r at
Jhal
awar
’s P
rithv
i Vila
s. (p
88)
JH
ALA
WA
R
##•##•#
Offe
rs th
e ch
ance
to s
tay
with
form
er
roya
lty in
a c
omfo
rtab
le R
aj-e
ra
bung
alow
, vis
it an
old
city
pal
ace,
and
to
ur a
nat
ure
rese
rve,
all
far f
rom
cr
owds
of t
ouris
ts. (
p82)
KA
RAU
LI
#Þ
#÷
#ë
#÷
Gur
uSh
ikar
(172
2m)
Bija
ipur
Deo
garh
Deo
li
Khu
ri
Kum
bhal
garh
Man
dore
Mt A
bu
Mun
abao
Pali
Raj
sam
and
Ran
akpu
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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298298
READER THANKSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ian Gardner, John Eadington, Karen Chamberlain, Mark Adams, Maurice Catherall, Nigel Tully, Surekha Narain
AUTHOR THANKSLindsay BrownThanks to all the folks who assisted me throughout my travels in Rajasthan. I am very grateful to Satin-der, Ritu, Raj, Dicky and Kavita in Jaipur, Anoop and Bunty in Pushkar, Nikhil and Atush in Jodhpur, Ravin-dra in Ranthambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Vikram in Jaisalmer, and Keshav and Manish in Bundi. Special thanks to Jenny.
Bradley MayhewThanks to Rouf in Rinagar; Anil and Ramesh Wadhwa in Agra; Zaheer Bagh in Kargil; Juma Malik and Tashi of Hidden North in Leh; Harish and Michael Schmid in Varanasi. Thanks to Carolyn for keeping me company in Varanasi.
Daniel McCrohanLove, hugs and kisses to my amazingly patient wife, Taotao, and two incredible children, Dudu and Yoyo; and to mum for helping out so much. At LP, huge thanks to Joe for trusting in me, and to my fellow writers, especially Abi, Isabella, John, Bradley, Mark
and Kevin. In Delhi, a big thank you to Pradeep, Sha-hadutt, Pash, Catriona and Paula (amessing!), and of course to Nick, and to Dilip and his beautiful family, for being such wonderful hosts.
Sarina SinghGratitude to the many readers who wrote to us with their feedback and travel experiences. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Joe for being such a delightful edi-tor; to my fellow co-writers; and to everyone involved in this book’s production. Finally, warm thanks to my parents for always being so fantastic.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSBL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Sari factory, Rajasthan, Tuul & Bruno Morandi/Getty Images ©llustrations pp216–17 by Michael Weldon, pp154–5 and pp200–1 by Javier Zarracina.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
299BEH
IND TH
E SCENES
THIS BOOKThis 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra guidebook was curated by Lindsay Brown. This guide was researched and written by Lindsay, Joe Bindloss, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan and Sarina Singh. The previous edition was written by Lindsay Brown, Bradley Mayhew and Abigail Blasi. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Joe BindlossSenior Product Editors Kate Chapman, Anne MasonProduct Editor Kate JamesSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Katie Connolly, Andrea Dobbin, Samantha
Forge, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Alison Morris, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Chris Pitts, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Lauren Egan, Bailey Freeman, Evan Godt, Gemma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Matt Phillips, Ross Taylor
300
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAbhaneri 62accessible travel 266accommodation 16, 266-7
children 31costs 176, 208language 292palaces 16
activities 21-3, see also individual activities
Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 72-3Adivasis 238Agra 36, 197-218, 198,
203, 8accommodation 197,
206-9activities 206airports 213autorickshaws 214bus travel 213climate 197costs 208cycle-rickshaws 214drinking 211emergency services 212festivals 205food 197, 209-11history 198medical services 212money 212nightlife 211postal services 212safe travel 212shopping 211sights 198-206taxis 214tourist information
212-13tours 206train travel 214
travel to/from 213-14travel within 214
Agra Fort 202-5Ahhichatragarh 128air pollution 288air travel
to/from India 276within India 277
airlines 276, 277Ajmer 71-4, 72Akbar, Emperor 227alcohol 256altitude sickness 289Alwar 66-9Amber 61-3Amber Fort 11, 61-2, 91, 2,
11, 90amoebic dysentery 287animals 258-60, see
also wildlife, individual species
antelopes 258archaeological sites
Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 72-3
Bala Quila 67Feroz Shah Kotla 163Mehrauli Archaeological
Park 168-9Qutab Minar Complex
168architecture 246-7arts 244-5, see also
individual artsATMs 270Aurangzeb, Emperor 228-9autorickshaws 281avian flu 287ayurveda
Agra 209Bundi 86Delhi 171Jaipur 49
BBala Quila 67baoris, see step-wellsbargaining 17bathrooms 274bazaars, see markets &
bazaarsbears 259beer 256begging 235Bhagavad Gita 241bhang 270bhang lassi 256Bhangarh 69Bharatpur 63-6, 64Bhil people 238bicycle travel, see cyclingBikaner 140-6, 142-3bird flu 287birds 259-60, 33birdwatching
books 259Desert National Park 140Guda Bishnoi 126Keoladeo National
Park 63-5Kichan 127Kota 87-8Kumbhalgarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 106Mt Abu 107Ranthambhore National
Park 79Bishnoi people 238block printing 245-6, 249,
250boat trips
Agra 204Kota 87-8Mt Abu 107Udaipur 96-7
books 220birdwatching 259culture 237, 245
food 252, 253, 255health 286history 227, 229, 231, 233
border crossings (to Pakistan) 126, 276-7
Brahma 240bread 252British East India
Company 229 British empire 229-31budget 15, 176, 184, 267,
269Bundi 12, 83-7, 84, 12Bundi Palace 83, 12bus travel 277-8, 281business hours 15, 271
Ccamel rides 11, 23, 132-3,
144, see also safariscamels 19-20, 12car travel 195, 278-9carpets 246caste system 239-41cell phones 14, 273cenotaphs 247
84-Pillared Cenotaph 83Cenotaph of Maharaja
Bakhtawar Singh 67Cenotaph of Mumtaz
Mahal 202Cenotaphs of the
Maharanis of Jaipur 47Jaswant Thada 120Royal Gaitor 47
chai 255chaat galli 210chhatris see cenotaphschildren, travel with 30-1chinkaras 258Chitrasala 83Chittorgarh (Chittor) 89-94,
92, 20, 90
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
301IN
DEX C
- Gcholera 287cinema 220, 245City Palace (Alwar) 67City Palace (Jaipur) 42-3City Palace (Kota) 87City Palace (Udaipur) 95climate 14, 21-3, see also
individual regionsclimate change 276clothing 17coffee 256commission agents 263consulates 268-9cooking courses
Delhi 169-70Jaipur 49Pushkar 75
costs 15, 176, 184, 267, 269courses, see also individual
locationscooking 49, 75, 169-71crafts 99meditation 49, 170-1music 75-6, 99yoga 49, 98, 170-1
cranes 127credit cards 271
scams 262cricket 238culture 221, 235-8currency 270customs regulations 267-8cycle-rickshaws 281cycling 277
Bikaner 142Delhi 195Jaipur 49Udaipur 99
Ddance 244dancing bears 212dangers, see safe travelDeeg 68deer 258dehydration 289Delhi 10, 36, 148-96, 150-1,
156-7, 160-1, 170-1, 174, 178-9
accommodation 148, 172-7
activities 169-71airports 192bus travel 192-4car-sharing services 195
climate 148costs 176, 184courses 169-71cycle-rickshaws 195cycling 195dangers 190-1drinking 184-7entertainment 187festivals & events 149food 148, 177-84Greater Delhi 168-9, 177,
184, 186-7, 190Gurgaon (Gurugram)
168-9, 177, 184, 186-7, 190
highlights 150-1history 149internet access 191Lodi Colony 164-8, 176,
183-4, 186, 190Majnu-ka-Tilla 153, 188media 191medical services 191metro 195mobile phones 191New Delhi 158-63, 175,
181-3, 185-6, 189, 160-1
nightlife 184-7Nizamuddin 164-8, 176,
183-4, 186, 190Old Delhi 152-8, 172-3,
177-9, 184-5, 187-8, 156-7
Paharganj 158, 173-4, 174-5, 179-81, 185, 188-9, 174
postal services 192safe travel 190-1shopping 187-90sights 152-69South Delhi 163-4, 176,
183, 186, 189-90, 178-9
Sunder Nagar 164-8, 176, 183-4, 186, 190
taxis 195tourist information 192tours 171-2train travel 193, 194travel to/from 192-4travel within 194-6
Delwara Temples 109dengue fever 287Desert Cultural Centre &
Museum 136Desert National Park 140
deserts 257dhal 253dhurries 246diarrhoea 287-8disabilities, travellers
with 266divorce 235-6Diwali 23dormitories 267drinking water 287drinks 255-6
scams 262driving 195, 278-9drugs 270
safe travel 262scams 262
dysentery 287
Eeconomy 221electricity 268embassies 268-9embroidery 246emergencies 15
language 294enamelwork 245environment 257-60environmental issues 221etiquette 17events see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 15
FFatehpur 115-16Fatehpur Sikri 214-18,
216-17Fatehpuri Masjid 158festivals & events 19, 21-3
Delhi 149Diwali 23Holi 21, 19Jaipur Elephant Festival
21-2Jaipur Literature Festival
21, 52Jaisalmer Desert
Festival 21, 136Pushkar Camel Fair 12,
23, 76, 12Rajasthan 50
films 220, 245food 17, 252-6, 269,
see also individual locations
cooking courses 9, 75, 169-71
costs 184for children 30-1health 288language 292-4scams 262street food 182vegetarian travellers 253
forts 20, 91, 247, see also palaces
Agra Fort 202-5Ahhichatragarh 128Amber Fort 11, 61-2, 91,
2, 11, 90Bala Quila 67Chittorgarh 89-93,
20, 90Gagron Fort 89, 91Jaigarh 62Jaisalmer Fort 10, 91,
129, 10, 17Junagarh 91. 141Kankwari Fort 69Kumbhalgarh 91, 105, 91Lohagarh 63Mehrangarh 91, 118-
20, 91Nahargarh 47Purana Qila 164Ranthambhore Fort
80, 91Red Fort 152-5, 167Siri Fort 163-4Taragarh 83-4Timangarh 82Tughlaqabad 169
frescoes 245
GGadi Sagar 131, 5Gagron Fort 89, 91Galta 47-9galleries, see museums &
galleriesGandhi, Indira 163Gandhi, Mahatma 231
Gandhi Museum 160-1National Gandhi
Museum 162Raj Ghat memorial 161-2
Gandhi Smriti 160-1Ganesh 240gardens, see parks &
gardensgay travellers 270
302
IND
EX G- M
gazelles 258gems 57, 245, 263geography 257giardiasis 287golf 45Guda Bishnoi 126Gurdwara Bangla Sahib
159Gurgaon (Gurugram)
168-9 Guru Shikhar 257
HHanuman 240havelis 13, 111, 115, 247, 13
Baa Ri Haveli 132Bhagton ki Choti Haveli
112Binsidhar Newatia
Haveli 116Le Prince Haveli 116Modi Havelis 114Mohanlal Ishwardas
Modi Haveli 114Murmuria Haveli 116 Nathmal-ki-Haveli 133 Patwa-ki-Haveli 132-3
Hawa Mahal 43health 284-90
carbon monoxide poisoning 290
children 31environmental hazards
288-90food 288heat 288-9insurance 284medicines 285vaccinations 284-5water 287women 290
healthcare 286heatstroke 288-9hepatitis 287highlights 8-13hijras 237hiking
Mt Abu 107, 108Nawalgarh 112Udaipur 101
Hinduism 239-41history 222-34
HIV 288Holi 21, 19holidays 272homestays 267horse riding
Nawalgarh 112Udaipur 98
hotels 267Humayun’s Tomb 164, 167
Iimmigration 276Independence 231indigenous people 238influenza 288insect bites & stings
289-90insurance
health 284motorcycle 280travel 269
internet access 269internet resources 15
health 286women travellers 265
Isarlat 43Islam 225-6, 241-2itineraries 24-9, 134-5, 24,
25, 26, 27, 134
Jjackals 259Jagmandir Island 97Jai Singh II 39, 43Jaigarh 62Jain temples
Bhandasar Temple 141Chaumukha Mandir 106Delwara Temples 109Digambara Jain Temple
153Jaisalmer fort temples
129-31Luna Vasahi Temple 109Mahavira Temple 127Neelkanth Mahadev Jain
Temple 93Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red)
Temple 72Vimal Vasahi 109
Jainism 243Jaipur 9, 39-61, 46-7, 54,
9, 44-5, 134, 251accommodation 50-3activities 49
courses 49drinking 56-7entertainment 57food 53-6history 39medical services 58nightlife 56-7shopping 57-8sights 42-9tourist information 58-9tours 49-50transport to/from 59-60transport within 60-1walking tour 54
Jaipur Elephant Festival 21-2
Jaipur Literature Festival 21, 52
Jaisalmer 128-39, 130-1, 5, 10, 17
accommodation 136-7drinking 138festivals 136food 138history 129shopping 138-9sights 129-36tourist information 139tours 136transport to/from 139transport within 139
Jaisalmer Desert Festival 21, 136
Jaisalmer Fort 10, 91, 129, 10, 17
Jama Masjid (Agra) 206Jama Masjid (Delhi) 153Jama Masjid (Fatehpur
Sikri) 215-18Jantar Mantar (Delhi)
159, 166Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 43jeep travel 281Jehangir, Emperor 227-8jewellery 245Jhalana Forest Reserve 34Jhalawar 88-9Jhunjhunu 114Jodhpur 11, 117-25, 118-19,
11, 91, 135, 248, 250accommodation 121-3activities 121drinking 124festivals 121food 123-4history 117-18
nightlife 124shopping 124sights 118-21tourist information 124transport to/from 124-5transport within 125
Junagarh 91. 141
KKaila Devi Game
Sanctuary 82Kali 240Kankwari Fort 69Karachi 126Karauli 82Keoladeo National Park 32,
63-5, 33Khejadali 126Khuri 140Kichan 127-8Kipling, Rudyard 85Kota 87-8Krishna 240Kumbhalgarh 91, 105-6, 91Kumbhalgarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 106
Llakes
Gadi Sagar 131, 5Jait Sagar 84-5Lake Pichola 96-7, 13Nakki Lake 107
language 14, 291-7leatherwork 245legal matters 269-70leopards 359lesbian travellers 270LGBT+ travellers 270literature, see booksLodi Garden 165, 166Lohagarh 63
Mmagazines 268Mahabharata 241Majnu-ka-Tilla 153malaria 286Mandawa 116-17, 12markets & bazaars 18
Chandni Chowk 187-8Jaipur 57Janpath & Tibetan
Markets 189
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
303IN
DEX M
-RKhan Market 190Kinari Bazaar 205-6Main Bazaar 188Majnu-ka-Tilla 153, 188Meharchand Market 190Sadar Bazaar 78Spice Market 188Subhash Bazaar 211
marriage 235-6mausoleums, see
cenotaphs, tombsmeasures 268media 268medical services 286meditation
Delhi 170-1Jaipur 49
Mehrangarh 118-20, 91, 91metro travel 281Mina people 238miniatures 244mobile phones 14, 273money 14, 15, 17, 270-1money changers 271monkeys 165, 168-9, 259monuments & statues
Agrasen ki Baoli 159Clock Tower 121Raj Ghat 161-2Royal Gaitor 47
mosquesAdhai-din-ka-Jhonpra
72-3Fatehpuri Masjid 158Jama Masjid (Agra) 206Jama Masjid (Delhi)
153, 166Jama Masjid (Fatehpur
Sikri) 215-18Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid
168motorcycle travel 279-80movies 220, 245Mt Abu 107-11, 108Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary
107-8Mughals 226-9murals 115museums & galleries
Alwar Museum 67Anokhi Museum of Hand
Printing 63Baa Ri Haveli 132Bagore-ki-Haveli 98Central Museum 43City Palace (Kota) 87
City Palace (Udaipur) 95Crafts Museum 159Dadha Heritage
Museum 128Desert Cultural Centre &
Museum 136Dr Ramnath A Podar
Haveli Museum 111Fort Palace Museum 129Gandhi Smriti 160-1Ghar Palace 89Government Museum 96Indira Gandhi Memorial
Museum 163Lohagarh Museum 63Mehrangarh
Museum 120Morarka Haveli
Museum 111-12National Gandhi
Museum 162National Museum
159-60Nehru Memorial
Museum 163Prachina Cultural Centre
& Museum 141Rao Madho Singh
Museum 87Taj Museum 199Thar Heritage
Museum 136Vintage & Classic Car
Collection 98
NNagaur 128Nahargarh 47National Gandhi
Museum 162National Museum 159-60national parks & reserves
260, see also wildlife reserves
Desert National Park 140
Jhalana Forest Reserve 34, 49
Keoladeo National Park 32, 63-5, 33
Ranthambhore National Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, 80, 12, 33
Nawalgarh 111-13Nehru, Jawaharlal 163Nehru Memorial
Museum 163newspapers 268
Oobservatories
Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 159
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 43
opening hours 15, 271opium 237Osian 126-7
Ppaan 255painting 244-5Pakistan (border
crossings) 126, 276-7palaces 18, 247, see also
fortsBundi Palace 83, 12Chitrasala 83City Palace (Alwar) 67City Palace (Jaipur)
42-3City Palace (Kota) 87City Palace (Udaipur) 95Fatehpur Sikri palace
215Fort Palace Museum 129Ghar Palace 89Hawa Mahal 9, 43, 9Jal Mahal 47Old City Palace 82Patan Mahal 71Sajjan Garh 98Sukh Mahal 84Suraj Mahl’s Palace 68Umaid Bhawan Palace
120-1paper making 246parks & gardens, see
also national parks & reserves, wildlife reserves
Lodi Garden 165, 166Mehrauli Archaeological
Park 168-9Mehtab Bagh 205Raj Ghat 161-2Ram Niwas Bagh 46Rao Jodha Desert Rock
Park 120Sunder Nursery 165
Partition 231Parvati 240passports 276Patan 71phad 242, 244-5
Phalodi 127-8photography 263, 271planning
budget 15calendar of events 21-3children, travel with 31first-time visitors 16-17India basics 14-15itineraries 24-9, 134-5,
24, 25, 26, 27, 134regional overviews 35-6travel seasons 21-3
police 270politics 221pollution 288population 221postal services 271-2pottery 246public holidays 272public transport 280-1
women travellers 265puppetry 246Purana Qila 164Puranas 241Pushkar 74-9, 75, 12
accommodation 76-8food 78shopping 78sights 74-5transport to/from 79transport within 79
Pushkar Camel Fair 12, 23, 76, 12
QQutab Minar 168, 10Quwwat-ul-Islam
Masjid 168
Rrabies 288radio 268Rajasthan 35, 38-147,
40-1accommodation 38climate 38festivals 50food 38highlights 40-1history 39
Rajputs 223-5Ramadan 22Ramayana 241Ranakpur 106-7
304
IND
EX R-W
Ranthambhore Fort 80, 91Ranthambhore National
Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, 80, 12, 33
Red Fort 152-5, 167refugees 153religion 221, 239-43rice 252-3rickshaws 281rugs 246ruins, see archaeological
sites
Ssacred texts 241safaris, see also camel
ridesBikaner 141-2, 144Bishnoi 126Jaisalmer 132-3Jhalana Forest Reserve
49Kumbhalgarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 106Osian 127Ranthambhore National
Park 80-1Sariska Tiger Reserve &
National Park 69safe travel 272-3
Delhi 190-1drugs 262health 288-90scams 262-3solo travellers 265transport 265water 287women travellers 191,
264-5Salawas 126Sam Sand Dunes 140Sariska Tiger Reserve
& National Park 34, 69-70, 34
scams 262-3Shekhawati 13, 111-17, 112Shiva 240shopping 17, 18shrines, see cenotaphs,
tombsSikhism 242-3Singhasini 126
Siri Fort 163-4Sisodias 224sloth bears 212, 259smoking 270solo travellers 265sound-and-light shows
Amber Fort 62Chittorgarh 92Kumbhalgarh 105Purana Qila 164Udaipur 103
statues, see monuments & statues
step-wells 247Chand Baori 62Nagar Sagar Kund 83Raniji-ki-Baori 83
Sufism 243Suraj Mahl’s Palace 68
TTaj Mahal 9, 36, 199, 202,
204, 207, 8Taragarh 83-4taxes
accommodation 267car hire 278departure 277food & drink 269
taxis 281car-sharing services 195women travellers 265
tea 255telephone services 14, 273temples, see also Jain
templesAkshardham Temple 168Bahai House of
Worship 163Brahma Temple 74Galta 47-9Gurdwara Bangla
Sahib 159Hanuman Temple
(Delhi) 165Hanuman Temple
(Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park) 69
Jagdish Temple 97Jhandewalan Hanuman
Temple 159Kaila Devi 82Karni Mata
Temple 146Kumbha Shyam
Temple 93
Laxmi Narayan Temple 131-2
Meera Temple 92-3Old Rangji Temple 74Pap Mochani (Gayatri)
Temple 75Raghunath Temple 107Ramakrishna
Mission 158Sachiya Mata
Temple 127Sai Ka Angan
Temple 169Savitri Mata Temple 74Shri Parashnath
Temple 127Surya Mandir 48-9
textiles 245-6thalis 254Thar Desert 11, 19-20, 220,
257, 11theft 263Tibetan refugees 153tigers 69, 70, 79, 258-9,
12, 33Timangarh 82time 14, 273-4tipping 17, 271toilets 274tombs, see also cenotaphs
Akbar’s Mausoleum 205Dargah of Khwaja Muin-
ud-din Chishti 71-2Hazrat Nizam-ud-din
Dargah 165Humayun’s Tomb 164,
167Jamali’s tomb 168Royal Gaitor 47Safdarjang’s Tomb 168
tour scames 263tourist information 274tours, see individual
locationstouts 191, 236, 263train travel 281-3transport to/from India
276-7transport within India 15,
277-83safe travel 265scams 263solo travellers 265
traveller’s diarrhoea 286-7trekking, see hiking, safaristribal groups 238
tuberculosis 288Tughlaqabad 169TV 268typhoid 288
UUber 195, 265, 280-1Udaipur 13, 94-105, 96, 13
accommodation 99-101activities 98drinking 102entertainment 102-3food 101-2history 95medical services 103nightlife 102shopping 103sights 95-8tourist information 104tours 99transport to/from 104transport within 104-5
Umaid Bhawan Palace 120-1
Vvacations 272vaccinations 284-5Vedas 241vegetarian travellers 253visas 14, 274-5Vishnu 240volunteering 275
Wwalking tours 54War of
Independence 230water 287weather 14, 21-3, see also
individual regionsweaving 246websites, see internet
resourcesweights 268wi-fi 269wildlife 18, 32-4, 258-60wildlife reserves, see
also national parks & reserves
Agra Bear Rescue Facility 212
Elephant Conservation Centre 212
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
305IN
DEX W
-Y Kaila Devi Game
Sanctuary 82Kumbhalgarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 106Mt Abu Wildlife
Sanctuary 107Ranthambhore National
Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, 80, 12, 33
Sajjan Garh Wildlife Sanctuary 98
Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park 34, 69, 34
wine 256women in Rajasthan 236-7women travellers 191,
264-5, 290
World Heritage SitesFatehpur Sikri 214-18,
216-17Jantar Mantar
(Jaipur) 43Keoladeo National Park
32, 63-5, 33Taj Mahal 9, 36, 199, 202,
204, 207, 8-9
Yyoga classes
Delhi 170-1Jaipur 49Udaipur 98
306
NO
TES
307N
OTES
308
NO
TES
309N
OTES
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310
Map Legend
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/MTR/MRT station
Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Sarina SinghAfter finishing her business degree Sarina bought a one-way ticket to India where she met an aspiring photographer who asked her to write a paragraph for one of his photos in the hope he could get it published. The magazine asked Singh to turn her 100-word ‘caption’ into a 3000-word feature, and so began her accidental writing career. After five years in India she returned to her home town of Melbourne to pursue postgraduate studies. Sarina has written on 50 Lonely
Planet titles, including more than 10 editions of India; four editions of Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra and three editions of South India. She has also written for dozens of other international publications such as the UK’s Sunday Times and the USA’s National Geographic Traveler. Find her on Twitter @sarina_singh and www.sarinasingh.com.
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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541536th edition – Oct 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 368 1© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSLindsay BrownRajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. Since becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored more than 45 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal,
Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.
Joe BindlossJoe first got the travel bug on a grand tour of Asia in the early 1990s, and he’s been roaming around its temples and paddy fields ever since on dozens of assignments for Lonely Planet and other publishers, covering everywhere from Myanmar and Thailand to India and Nepal. Joe was Lonely Planet’s des-tination editor for the Indian subcontinent until 2019. See more of his work at www.bindloss.co.uk.
Bradley MayhewAgra & the Taj Mahal Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years. He start-ed travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-writer of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan,
Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s ten most scenic long-distance trails. Brad-ley has also written for Rough Guides, has contributed chapters to Silk Road: Monks, Warriors & Merchants and is a co-writer of Insight Guide’s Silk Road.
Daniel McCrohanDelhi Daniel is a British travel writer who specialises in Asia and who has au-thored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet and Trailblazer. His expertise lies in China and India, but he has written guides to countries right across the continent, including Mongolia, Russia, Tibet, Thailand and Bangladesh. He also has written numerous British walking guides. Daniel has been a guest speaker at international travel shows, and was a co-host on the Lonely Planet television
series Best in China. He speaks Chinese fluently and Hindi badly, owns three cycle rickshaws and never uses cars. Find him on Twitter (@danielmccrohan).
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