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RØADMAP TO
ZERO
DISCHARGE OF
HAZARDOUS
CHEMICALS
QUARTER 2
REPORT July 2012
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
CALL FOR COLLABORATION
HIGHLIGHTS OF Q2 PROGRAMME STATUS
PROGRAMME STATUS IN DETAIL
REFLECTION
COMMUNICATIONS CONTACT
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On November 15, 2011, adidas Group, C&A, H&M, Li- Ning,
NIKE Inc., and Puma published the release of a Joint
Roadmap towards zero discharge of hazardous
chemicals (ZDHC) in the supply chain by 2020. In January
2012, G-Star joined the group of brands and committed to
the Joint Roadmap and Levi Strauss & Co. joined this
quarter.
The Joint Roadmap is a highly ambitious plan that sets a new standard of environmental performance for the global apparel and footwear industry. It includes specific commitments and timelines to realize this shared goal.
This report outlines the progress of activities and accomplishments by the group of brands during the second quarter of 2012.
INTRODUCTION
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AN
AMBITIOUS
PLAN
CALL FOR COLLABORATION JOIN US To deliver on the challenging commitment to ZDHC by 2020, we believe that the participation of a
larger number of participants including many more brands, retailers, suppliers, and stakeholders from
the chemical industry and authorities is necessary.
The current Joint Roadmap brands welcome additional members and look forward to continuing to
receive support from all stakeholders and constituencies as needed for the Joint Roadmap to be
successful. Signatories of the Joint Roadmap are the owners and managers of this programme. To find out more about this programme, please email us and we will contact to discuss efforts in detail.
GOVERNANCE POLICIES AND PROCEDURES
The Governance Policies and Procedures document has been developed. The document defines
membership criteria, structures, roles, responsibilities, processes, and budget by which the ZDHC
programme will abide.
MEMBERSHIP STRUCTURE
There are three categories of membership available for organizations. Interested Brands/ Retailers
may either join us as a Signatory Member or an On-Boarding member. For full details, please read
here.
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2. ON-BOARDING MEMBERS
Interested companies
Those who have not yet met the
requirement of the signatory
membership
Time bound membership status
3. ASSOCIATE MEMBERS
Open to suppliers, industry
organizations, NGOs, or other
stakeholders who meet the
eligibility criteria outlined in our
Governance document
1. SIGNATORY MEMBERS
Voting members
Companies who meet the
eligibility criteria set in our
Governance document
During the second quarter, the group of ZDHC brands and our newly recruited programme
manager focused efforts on structuring, setting rules, and further clarifying the activities of the Joint
Roadmap. The progress achieved has been hugely essential, as it establishes the foundation for a
strong organization and will allow members to better focus on tasks necessary to achieve the goal
of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020.
HIGHLIGHTS OF Q2
PROGRAMME STATUS
Conducted outreach in April in Brussels,
Belgium
Completed system mapping
Kicked off benchmarking study
Progressed in the development of a generic
inventory of chemicals used in the textiles
industry
Prepared framework for the screening tool
Progressed in the development of the joint
generic audit approach for environmental
performance
Completed the development and launched
the public website
Developed the research methodology to
confirm or set timelines for the elimination of
products that are associated with PFOA and
POFs
Investigated alternatives for Water Repellent
chemistry.
Planning next workshop in September to be
held in Portland, Oregon, USA.
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PROGRAMME STATUS 1/5
OUTREACH MEETING IN APRIL The ZDHC brands hold as a minimum weekly conference calls and meetings to discuss overall
programme management aspects and specific projects.
In addition to weekly team calls, we held a second collaborative meeting in Brussels, Belgium. We
invited other potential brands who are interested in joining, as well as leading chemical companies,
international labs and service providers who are essential to achieving this joint goal, to meet.
There we discussed our goal for zero discharge and emphasized how we crucially need the industry to
join us in order to reach the critical mass.
KEY ACTIVITIES
• Conducted a 5 day meeting with signatory brands, new brands, chemical industry, laboratories,
service providers, and industry associations
• Conducted a system mapping exercise, which further supported the analysis of the Joint Roadmap
and clarified paths forward (see slide Appendix A)
• Prepared the on boarding of new brands, as some brands have shown great interest in joining
• Began to further develop plans for Roadmap projects
• Exchanged views with leading chemical companies and chemical industry associations to align
understanding and establish ways of future collaboration
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SYSTEM MAPPING During the outreach meeting in April 2012, we held a 1 day workshop to discuss a systems mapping overview that had been conducted by Idiagram (refer to Appendix A). The systems workshop helped the group build a view of the current reality, the goal for 2020, and the path towards realizing our goal. The benefits from engaging in this process included: • Getting up to speed quickly on the key strategic issues that have been raised by different stakeholders and subject matter experts (the current systems maps integrate the views of numerous interviewees). • Develop a systemic understanding of the interconnected issues involved in a complex challenge like the ZDHC Programme. • Recognizing the other stakeholders who must be part of the solution – and agree on how best to engage them. • Identify system leverage points – and begin to plan what actions are needed to shift the system beyond those that have already been discussed. This map and discussions provided a foundation – a common language and context, a basis from which it to make progress on the tactical details and organizational issues necessary to address. It was very beneficial to build this big-picture perspective early in the collaboration process to provide a clear sense of direction for the team and sense of purpose with multiple stakeholders.
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PROGRAMME STATUS 2/5
BENCHMARK STUDY
The aim of the benchmark study is to verify whether 9 + 2 classes of chemicals (listed below) are
present or not in the wastewater discharge. This pilot will be done through a carefully designed
process of on-site visits and audits, inventories, and analytics, where appropriate.
• We selected the facilities in Q1, at which time we decided that the initial countries would be China
and Bangladesh.
• During Q2, we kicked off the studies in China and Bangladesh.
• We collected wastewater, sludge, and chemical samples from the selected factories for testing.
• We also conducted factory audits at the selected factories.
• We are now waiting for the results and will compile and publish the report at the end of 2012.
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1. Phthalates (ortho-phthalates)
2. Brominated and Chlorinated flame retardants
3. Banned Azo does
4. Organotin Compounds (e.g., TBT)
5. Chlorobenzenes
6. Chlorinated Solvents
7. Chlorophenols
8. Short-Chained Chlorinated Paraffins
(SCCPs)
9. Heavy Metals
1. AlkylPhenol Ethoxylates/ AlkylPhenols
(APEOs/ APs)
2. Perfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
PROGRAMME STATUS 3/5
DEVELOP A GENERIC INVENTORY OF CHEMICALS USED IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY The identification of sources of information is underway. Discussions on the format of the inventory and on the type of data will be provided.
SCREENING TOOL A framework document has been prepared and shared with stakeholders. Moving forward, multi-
stakeholders discussions will be conducted.
DEVELOP A JOINT GENERIC AUDIT APPROACH FOR ENVIRONMENTAL PERFORMANCE The team identified auditing tools to research and are contacting tool owners for more information. The team is developing a mapping exercise to identify those tools that best meet requirements.
PUBLIC WEBSITE Full version of the public website is now complete. It will serve as an information platform for the ZDHC Joint Roadmap.
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PROGRAMME STATUS 4/5
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ALTERNATIVES TO C8 (PFOA and PFOS) WATER REPELLENT
CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGIES The goal is to set timelines for the elimination of products that are associated with PFOA and PFOS.
Research methodology has been developed. We are currently engaging with stakeholders and
gathering research and literature on available alternatives.
NEXT WORKSHOP We are currently planning our next workshop to be held in Portland, Oregon, USA in September 2012.
PROGRAMME STATUS 5/5
REFLECTION
During the last quarter, Joint Roadmap members designed the organizational structures, rules, roles, and responsibilities to serve as a basis for a sustainable and credible programme. A technical committee will soon be set up with relevant stakeholders (including the chemical industry) to map technical solutions and/or develop research plans. In order to change the system, the relevant stakeholders need to actively be engaged for aligning roles and responsibilities to achieve the ZDHC by 2020 goal.
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COMMUNICATIONS CONTACT
All Joint Roadmap Members:
adidas Group:
Katja Schreiber
C&A:
Thorsten Rolfes
G-Star:
Frouke Bruinsma
H&M:
Malin Bjorne
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Levi Strauss & Co.:
Marie Helene Azar
Li-Ning:
Wei Li
NIKE:
Del Hudson
PUMA:
Kerstin Neuber
APPENDIX A: SYSTEM MAP
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