Quality Since 1877

Columbia Bicycles | OWNER’S MANUAL

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The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of allaspects of maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object.Ballard Paciic Resources Inc. recommends that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts orconcerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle. You willsave time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.

Bottom View

SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION

serial number

WRITE YOUR SERIAL NUMBER HERE

IMPORTANT NOTICE

Keep your serial number handy in case of damage, loss or theft.

410 Adele Joplin, Mo 64801Call Toll Free 1.866.424.0500Local 417-206-0563Fax: 775-248-5155Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (CST)

For product related questions email us at: info@Columbia-bikes.comFor customer service questions email us at: service@Columbia-bikes.com

If you have a problem, do not return to the store,call 1-866-424-0500. Adult Supervision Requiredwhen in use. For parts or repair service, callBallard Paciic Resources Inc. at 1-866-424-0500.

This manual contains important safety, performanceand maintenance information. Please read this manualbefore taking your irst ride on your new bicycle,and keep this manual handy for future reference.

CONTENTSSAFETY Safety Equipment 2 Mechanical Safety Check 3 Riding Safety 5 IMPORTANT NOTE TO PARENTS 5 Rules of the Road 7 Rules of the Trail 8 Wet Weather Riding 9 Night Riding 10 Bicycling in Traffic 12

ASSEMBLY, MAINTENANCEAND ADJUSTMENT Tools 14 Owners Responsibility 15 Reflectors 16 Seat Installation 18 Pedals 21 Handlebar and Stem 22 Front Wheel 27 Fenders 29 Brakes 31 Derailleurs 39 Gears and Shifting 41 Headlight 44 Pegs and Training Wheels 45 Tire Valves 47 Repair and Service 48 Tires 51

NEW OWNER Warranty 56 Purchase Record 57

BALLARD PACIFIC

BALLARD PACIFIC

Columbia Bicycles | OWNER’S MANUAL

Quality Since 1877

www.columbia-bikes.com

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SAFETY EQUIPMENTWARNING: Many states require speciic safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.

1. HELMETWhile not all states require bicyclists to wear approvedprotective headgear, common sense dictates that youshould wear an ANSI or Snell approved helmet whetherthe law requires it or not. Most serious bicycle injuriesinvolve head injuries which might have been avoided ifthe rider had worn a helmet. Your dealer has a varietyof attractive helmets, and can recommend one to suit your needs. Your helmet must it correctly, be worn correctly and be properly secured to do its real job. Ask your dealer to help you with the it and adjustment of your helmet.

WARNING: Always wear a helmet when riding your bike.Always keep the chin strap securely buckled. Failure to wear an approved helmet may result in serious injury or death.

2. REFLECTORSRelectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel and pedal relectors. The size, performance and location of each relector is speciied by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission. The relectors are designed to pick up and relect car lights in a way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.

CAUTION: Check relectors and their mounting brack-ets regularly to make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged relectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.

WARNING: Do not remove the relectors or relector mounting brackets from your bicycle. They are an inte-gral part of the bicycle’s safety system. Removing the relectors may reduce your visibility to others using the roadway. Being struck by other vehicles often results in serious injury or death.

Remember: relectors are not a substitute for lights. Always equip your bicycle with all state and locally mandated lights.

3. LIGHTSWe strongly recommend that children not ride after dusk or before daylight. If you must ride your bike after dusk or before full daylight, your bicycle must be equipped with lights so that you can see the road and avoid road hazards; and so that others can see you. Vehicle laws treat bicycles like any other vehicle. That means you must have a white front and a red rear light operating if you are riding after dusk or before full daylight. Your bike dealer can recommend a battery or generator powered lighting system appropriate to your needs.

WARNING: Relectors are not a substitute for proper lights. It is your responsibility to equip your bicycle with all state and locally mandated lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without a bicycle lighting system which meets local and state laws and without relectors is dangerous and may result in serious injury or death.

4. PEDALSSome higher performance model bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing adhesion between the rider’s shoe and the bicycle pedal.

If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces.

Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.

MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECKHere is a simple, sixty-second mechanical safetycheck which you should get in the habit of makingevery time you’re about to get on a bike.

1. NUTS & BOLTSLift the front wheel off the ground by two or threeinches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anythingsound, feel or look loose? Do a quick visual and tactileinspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts oraccessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, asksomeone with experience to check.

2. TIRES & WHEELSTires correctly inlated? Check by putting one hand onthe saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebarsand stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike whilelooking at tire delection. Compare what you see withhow it looks when you know the tires are correctlyInlated; and adjust if necessary.

Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and lookfor cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damagedtires before riding the bike.

Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brakeclearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobblesside to side or hits the brake pads, take the bike to aqualiied bike shop to have the wheel trued.

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CAUTION: Wheels must be true for hand brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge and tools needed to do the job correctly.

3. BRAKESIf your bicycle has hand-operated brakes, squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake shoes contacting the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted. If your bicycle has a coaster brake, check to make sure that the coaster brake arm is securely clamped to the bicycle frame. If the arm or its mounting bracket are loose, do not ride the bike until the brake arm is properly secured. See page 32.

WARNING: Riding with improperly adjusted and se-cured brakes or worn brake shoes is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.

4. WHEEL NUTSAre the front and rear wheels straight and secure in the dropouts? Are the wheel nuts properly tightened?

WARNING: Riding with an improperly installed or insuficiently tightened wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, which can cause damage to the bicycle and serious injury or death.

5. HANDLEBAR AND SADDLE ALIGNMENTAre the saddle and handlebar stem correctly parallelto the bike’s top tube and tight enough so that youcan’t twist them out of alignment?

6. HANDLEBAR ENDSAre the handlebar grips secure and in good condition?If not, replace them. Are the handlebar ends plugged?If not, plug them before you ride.

WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips can cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handle-bars can act like a cookie cutter on your body, and cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.

RIDING SAFELY AND RESPONSIBLY

NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injuryand damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assumethe responsibility for that risk. Not the people who soldyou the bike. Not the people who made it. Not thepeople who distribute it. Not the people who manage ormaintain the roads or trails you ride on. You. So youneed to know - and to practice - the rules of safe andresponsible riding.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE TO PARENTSIn addition to The Basics (page 7), the Rules of theRoad (page 7), the Rules of the Trail (page 9), WetWeather Riding (page 9), Night Riding (page 10)and Bicycling in Trafic (page 12) kids need to betaught...and to have frequently reinforced...the followingrules and lessons which adults are alreadyexpected to know. We urge you to take the time tofamiliarize yourself with these rules and to teach themto your child before you let your child rideunsupervised.

1. RULES

• No playing in the road or in the street

• No riding on busy streets.

• No riding at night.

• Stop for all STOP signs.

• Ride on the right of trafic.

2. LESSONSThe lessons that follow relate to some of the mostcommon real situations that children encounter whenriding their bikes. Go over these situations with yourchild and make sure the lesson objective isaccomplished.

Driveway Rideout: When a youngster rides outof the driveway and is struck by a car, that is called arideout accident.

What can you do?

First, realize the danger of your own driveway. Ifthere are obstructions to the view of passingmotorists (like bushes or trees), trim them back.You might park your car in front of the driveway, iflocal ordinance permits. This way, your child can’tuse the driveway as a launching pad.

But the most important thing you can do is teachyour child about driveway safety. Take your childoutside to the driveway and have him/her practicethe following steps:

• Stop before entering the street.

• Look left, right and left again for trafic.

• If there’s no trafic, proceed into the roadway. Running the Stop Sign: Car/bike crashes can happen when a cyclist runs a stop sign. Most cyclists who get hit riding through stop signs know that they were supposed to stop. They just thought it would be OK this time; or they may have been distracted. The thing to impress upon your child is that while he/she may not get hit every time, running stop signs will eventually result in an accident.

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What can you do?Take your child to a stop sign near home. Explain what it means by emphasizing the following points:

1). Stop at all stop signs, regardless of what is happening.

2). Look in all directions for trafic.

3). Watch for oncoming cars making left turns.

4). Watch for cars behind you making right turns.

5). Wait for any cross trafic to clear.

6). Proceed when safe.

In order to make this lesson stick, you may have to change your own driving habits. If you creep through intersections controlled by stop signs, you are showing your child that you don’t really believe what you preach. For your child’s sake, stop at stop signs.

Turning Without Warning: Another major accident type involves cyclists who make unexpected left turns. They neither look behind for trafic, nor do they signal. The key factor here is neglecting to look to the rear: If the cyclist had looked, he/she would have seen the danger coming up from behind.

What can you do?Of course, you ought to teach your child not to ride across busy streets - at least until the child has had some advanced training and is old enough to understand trafic. But in the meantime, for residential street riding, you can teach your child to always look and signal before turning left. A big part of this lesson is teaching the child how to look to the rear without swerving.

Take your child to a playground to practice riding along a straight line while looking behind. Stand alongside and hold up a different number of ingers on your hand after

the child rides by. Call his/her name. After 15 minutes of practice, a ten year old should be able to look behind his/herself and identify how many ingers you are holding up - without swerving.

Night Time Riding (See also page 10).Most car/bicycle accidents happen at night where an over-taking car hits a bike. (An overtaking car is one that comes up from behind and passes the cyclist on the left.) These overtaking accidents can be very serious.

What can you do?First, you should keep your youngster from riding at night. It requires special skills and equipment. Few children have either. Secondly, make sure your child understands that if he/she gets caught out after dark on a bike, the thing to do is to call you for a ride home. One suggestions is to tape “phone money” to the bike so that, in an emergency, the child will be able to call home.

Following the Leader: There is increased risk of car/bike collision if children are following each other, because if the irst one does something dangerous, those following may do it too.

What can you do?Teach your child to always assess the trafic situation for him/herself. When a group is riding around, each cyclist should stop for stop signs; each cyclist should look to the rear before making left turns; and so on. One way to get the message across is to play a game with the child similar to ‘Simon Says’. In this game, however, the emphasis should not be on doing what ‘Simon Says’, but rather have the child make a decision based on the situation. The child should learn to ignore what ‘Simon Says’. Children need to learn to think for themselves to ride safely.

SUMMARY: Teach your child early - the earlier thebetter. Learning skills such as looking and avoidinghazards takes time. Be prepared to repeat lessonsuntil your child understands what you’re trying toget across. Be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded,knowing that your child is aware of safe riding skills.

B. THE BASICS

1. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check Before you get on a bike.

2. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle.

3. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of chainrings; the moving chain; the turning pedals and cranks; and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.

4. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest Snell or ANSI standard.

5. Always wear shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Never ride barefoot or wearing sandals.

6. Wear bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can catch on moving parts of the bicycle or be snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.

7. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX bike, can be fun; but it puts incredible stress on everything from your spokes to your pedals.

C. RULES OF THE ROAD

1. Learn the local bicycle laws and regulations. Many communities have special regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Many states have helmet laws, child carrier laws and special bicycle trafic laws. In the U.S. and in most foreign countries, a bicyclist is required to obey the same trafic laws as the driver of a car or motorcycle. It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.

2. You are sharing the road or the path with others - motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if they infringe on yours.

3. Ride defensively. Assume that the people with whom you are sharing the road are so absorbed with what they are doing and where they are going that they are oblivious to you.

4. Look ahead of where you’re going, and be ready to avoid:

• Vehicles slowing or turning in front of you, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind.

• Parked car doors opening in front of you.

• Pedestrians stepping out in front of you.

• Children playing near the road.

• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into trafic, catch your wheel or otherwise cause you to lose control and have an accident.

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5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or on the right side of the road, in the same direction as car trafic and as close to the edge of the road as possible.

6. Stop at stop signs and trafic lights; slow down and look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.

7. Use hand signals for turning and stopping. Learn the local vehicle code for the correct signals.

8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trafic sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.

9. Never carry a passenger.

10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.

11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.

12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you injury and damage your bike.

13. Don’t weave through trafic or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.

14. Never ride your bicycle while under the inluence of alcohol or drugs.

15. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.

RULES OF THE TRAIL

1. We recommend that children not ride off-road without the accompaniment of an adult. In any event, never ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back. Always take along some kind of identiication, so that people know who you are in case of an accident; and take a couple of dollars in cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency phone call.

2. Surface hazards make off-road riding much more dificult and therefore more dangerous than riding on paved roads. Start slowly and build up your skills on easier terrain before tackling more dificult terrain.

3. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride off-road, and respect private property. Don’t ride where you are not welcome or where you are not allowed.

4. You are sharing the trail with others - hikers, equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if they inconvenience you.

5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger them, and stay far enough away so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger you.

6. You may be riding in sensitive habitat, so stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb wildlife or livestock; and don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail through vegetation or streams.

7. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Ride accordingly. Leave things as you found them; and always take out everything you brought in.

8. If you crash: First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Next, check your bike for damage, and ix what you can. Then, when you get home, carefully perform the maintenance proceedure described this manual and check for any other damaged parts. All bent, scored or discolored parts are suspect and should be replaced.

WARNING: A crash can put extraordinary stress on bicycle components, causing them to fatigue pre-maturely. Components suffering from stress fatigue can fail suddenly and catastrophically, causing loss of control, serious injury or death.

CAUTION: If you have any doubt about the condition of the bicycle or any of its parts, take it to an authorized repair center.

WET WEATHER RIDING

WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions. Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you would under nor-mal, dry conditions.

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NIGHT RIDING Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding during the day. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or in the dark. Adults should not ride at dawn, at dusk or at night unless it is absolutely necessary.

WARNING: Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without a bicycle lighting system which meets local and State laws and without relectors is dangerous and can result in serous injury or death.

Even if you have excellent night vision, many of the people with whom you’re sharing the road don’t. A bicyclist is very dificult for motorists and pedestrians to see at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility. If you must ride under these conditions, check and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding: follow the Rules of the Road and of the Trail even more carefully; and make sure to take the following additional precautions:

Before riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at othertimes of poor visibility, take the following steps to make yourself more visible:

• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted relectors.

• Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered head and tail light.

• Wear light colored, relective clothing and accessories, such as a relective vest, relective arm and leg bands, relective stripes on your helmet, lashing lights...any relective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trafic.

• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a relector or light.

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Use hand signals - Hand signals, using your left arm, tell motorists what you intend to do. Signal as a matter of law, courtesy and safety.

Ride in a straight line - Whenever possible, ride in a straight line, to the right of trafic. Watch for car doors; ride a bike width away from parked cars.

Don’t weave between parked cars - Don’t ride out to the curb between parked cars unless they are far apart. Motorists may not see you when you try to move back into trafic.

Ride in middle of lane in slow trafic - Get in the middle of the lane at busy intersections and whenever you are moving at the same speed as trafic.

Follow lane markings - Don’t turn left from right lane. Don’t go straight in a lane marked “Right Turn Only.”

Watch for cars pulling out - Make eye contact with driver. Assume they don’t see you until you are sure they do.

Scan the road behind - Learn to look back over your shoulder without losing your balance or swerving left. Some riders use rear view mirrors.

Avoid road hazards - Watch out for parallel slat sewer grates, slippery manhole cover, oily pavement, gravel and ice. Cross railroad tracks carefully at right angles. To get better control as you move across bumps and other hazards, stand up on your pedals.

Keep both hands ready to brake - You may not stop in time if you brake one-handed. Allow extra distance for stopping in the rain, since brakes are less eficient when wet.

Watch for chasing dogs - Ignore them or try a irm “No!” If the dog doesn’t stop, dismount with your bike between you and the dog. Dogs are attracted to spinning wheels and feet.

Watch for cars pulling out. Obey trafic signs and signals -Bicycles must drive like the other vehicles if they are to be taken seriously by the motorists.

Never ride against trafic - Motorists aren’t looking for bicyclists on the wrong side of the road.

Choose best way to turn left - There are two ways to make a left turn. #1 Like an auto - Signal, move into the left lane and turn left. #2 Like a pedestrian - Ride straight to the far side crosswalk. Walk your bike across.

Don’t pass on the right - Motorists may not look for or see a bicycle passing on the right.

Go slow on sidewalks - Pedestrians have the right of way. By law, you must give pedestrians audible warning when you pass. Don’t cross driveways or intersections without slowing to a walkers’ pace and looking very carefully for trafic (especially trafic turning right on a green light).

While riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility:

• Ride slowly.

• Avoid areas of heavy trafic, dark areas, and roads with speed limits over 35 mph.

• Avoid road hazards.

• If possible, ride on routes already familiar to you.

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TOOLS/TECHNICAL SUPPORTYour new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have purchased the bicycle already fully re-assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. Please check that all parts referred to in the instructions and shown in the diagram have been included, and that all tools needed are at your disposal. For more details on inspections, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to assembly of your bicycle, call COLUMBIA BICYCLES direct at:

COLUMBIA BICYCLES SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:1.866.424.0500

Monday - Friday (8:00AM - 5:00PM - CST)

RIDING SAFETY AND RESPONSIBILITYThe Owner’s Responsibility

WARNING: This bicycle is made to be ridden by one rider at a time for general transportation and recreational use. It is not made to withstand the abuse of stunting and jumping.

If the bicycle was purchased unassembled, it is the owner’s responsibility to follow all assembly and adjustment instructions exactly as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions” supplied with the bicycle. The owner must make sure all components are securely attached.

If the bicycle was purchased assembled, it is the owner’s responsibility, before riding the Bicycle for the i rst time, to make sure the bicycle is assembled and adjusted exactly as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions” supplied with the bicycle. The owner must make sure all components are securely attached.

Fitting the Rider to the Bicycle

To determine the correct size of bicycle for the rider.

• Straddle the assembled bicycle with feet shoulder width apart and l at on the ground

• There must be at least one inch of clearance (1) between the highest part of the top tube (2) and the crotch of the rider

• The minimum leg-length for the rider is the highest part of the top tube plus one-inch (3).

• The rider must be able to easily reach and operate the brake levers (if so equipped).

Tools Required:

• Phillips head screw driver

• 4mm, 5mm, 6mm & 8mm Allen keys; adjustable

• Adjustable wrench or a 9mm, 10mm, 14mm & 15mm open and box end wrenches

• Pliers with cable cutting ability.

To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was obtained after assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly instructions and maintenance checks specii ed in this manual before riding.

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1. Put the seat post mounted rear rel ector in the correct position by loosening the screws of the rear rel ector bracket.

2. Make sure the rear rel ector is vertical and points straight toward the rear of the bicycle.

3. Make sure there are at least 3 inches of clearance between the top of the seat and the top of the red rear rel ector.

OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

WARNING: For your own safety, do not ride the bicycle if the refl ectors are incorrectly installed, damaged, or missing. Make sure the front and rear refl ectors are vertical. Do not allow the visibility of the refl ectors to be blocked by clothing or other articles. Dirty refl ectors do not work well. Clean the refl ectors, as necessary, with soap and a damp cloth.

BICYCLE ASSEMBLYREFLECTORSYour bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) rel ectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely i tted and in good, clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all rel ectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found.

(FRONT REFLECTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION)

NOTICE: It is important to check and adjust the position of the rel ectors as you assemble your bike. The rel ectors must always be vertical (perpendicular to the ground) and pointed toward the front and rear of the bike. Please make sure that the adjustment is correct as a i nal step in the assembly of your bike.

ATTACHING HARDWARE TO THE HANDLEBARS.

With the white rel ector facing forward wrap the rear end of the rel ector bracket around the handlebar(A). Once the bracket is in the correct position, and the fastening nut is in place underneath the bracket, thread the screw down through the top of the bracket. Tighten screw i rmly with screwdriver(B).

Rear Reflector Diagram

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AT LEAS

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Handlebar ReflectorDiagram A

Handlebar ReflectorDiagram B

ReflectorBracket

WhiteReflector

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SEAT INSTALLATIONAttach Seat to Seat Post (Fig. 1): (pre-assembled on some models)

• Loosen nuts on seat clamp (A) and rotate Seat (14) into riding position.

• Put the seat post (33) fully through the seat clamp (A).

• Tighten the Seat Clamp (A) so the seat (14) stays on the seat post.

• If the Seat Clamp has a nut on each side, tighten both nuts equally.

CAUTION: If you accidentally drop the seat post into the seat tube, it may be dificult to remove it.

• Point the Seat (14) forward and put the Seat Post (33) into the Seat Tube (B) (Fig. 2, Fig. 3).

WARNING: To prevent the seat coming loose and possible loss of control, the “MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark (C) on the seat post must be below the top of the Seat Tube (B).

Tighten The Quick Release Lever:

• Move the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “open” position so the word “open” is pointing away from the Seat Post Clamp (E).

NOTE: The words “open” and “close” are on opposite sides of the quick release lever.

CAUTION: Operate the Quick Release Lever (D) by hand only. Do not use a hammer or any other tool to tighten the quick release lever.

You must use strong force to move the quick release lever to the “close” position. If you can easily move the lever to the “close” position, the clamping force is too light.

• Open and close the Quick Release Lever (D) with one hand while you turn the Adjusting Nut (F) with the other hand (Fig. 3).

• Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut by hand, so that you irst feel resistance to the quick release lever when it perpendicular to the bicycle frame.

Tighten the quick release lever (continued):

• Push the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “close” position (Fig. 3).

• When in the “close” position, make sure the Quick Release Lever (D) lays against the Seat Post Clamp (E).

• The tightening torque of the Quick Release Lever (D) should be tight enough so that the seat does not move during normal operation.

SEAT BOLT MOUNT (Fig. 4) (various models)

Some models have a Bolt (A), Washer (B) and Nut (C) instead of a Quick Release Lever.

• If needed, loosen the nut enough to insert the Seat Post.

• Point the seat forward and insert Seat Post to the Minimum Insertion marks (D).

• Tighten Nut securely so it supports the rider without moving.

TESTING SEAT CLAMP AND POST CLAMP TIGHTNESSTo test the tightness of the seat clamp and the post clamp:

WARNING: Every time the quick release mechanism is loosened, make sure the red relector is correctly positioned.

• Try to turn the seat side-to-side and to move the front of the seat up and down.

• If the seat moves in the Seat Clamp (A) (Fig. 1):

• Loosen the Seat Clamp (A).

• Put the seat in the correct position and tighten the Seat Clamp (A) tighter than before.

• Do this test again, until the seat does not move in the Seat Clamp (A).

• If the Seat Post (33) moves in the Seat Tube (B):

• Move the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “open” position.

• Put the seat in the correct position and tighten the Quick Release Lever (D) tighter than before.

• If necessary, loosen Quick Release Lever (D), tighten Adjusting Nut (F) and re-tighten Quick Release Lever (D).

• Do this test again, until the seat post does not move in the seat tube.

A

33

14

14 CB

33

BC

E

BF

33

D

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLYFIG. 1

FIG. 4

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

D B10 C

A

20 21

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

SADDLE HEIGHT (FIG A)

1. Turn crank to place it in its lowest position.

2. Place heel of foot on pedal with foot parallel to the ground.

3. Position saddle so that toe of other foot can touch the ground. Saddle should also be parallel to the ground and aligned straight with the bicycle frame.

4. Tighten seat post bolt. Recommended torque is 150 in/lbs.

FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS (FIG B)

1. Position crank arm parallel to the ground.

2. Place ball of foot on pedal with foot parallel to the ground.

3. Position the saddle so that an imaginary line drawn from the center of your knee to the pedal spindle is vertical. Some riders move the saddle slightly forward of this position.

NOTE: Saddle should be horizontal and perfectly aligned with the bicycle.

4. Tighten saddle clamp nuts securely.

INSTALL PEDALSAll pedals have “ L” or “ R” stamped on the threaded spindle.

1. Thread the pedal marked “R” clockwise into the right or chain side of the bike.

2. Thread the pedal marked “ L” counter-clockwise into the left side.

NOTE: Hand thread pedals into position without use of a wrench to ensure threads are not crossed. Damage to crank arm will result from crossed threads. When tightening with a wrench, make sure each spindle is i rmly seated against the crank arm. If jaws of wrench are too thick, they may prevent proper tightening of pedal spindle against crank arm.

FIG A

FIG B

Side of Pedal

SPINDLE

Right Pedal

turn clockwise

Side of Pedal

SPINDLE

Left Pedal

turn counter clockwise

Left Pedal

22 23

TOP CAP

PINCHBOLT(S)

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

HANDLEBAR ASSEMBLYRemove all protective packaging from the handlebar assembly if not already done. Turn the fork of the bicycle to face forward. Note that “forward” means that the wheel mounting slots are in the furthest forward position. So the wheel axle will be in front of the fork when assembled. (Fig. A)

Check handlebar stem clamp bolts to be sure they are properly tightened, and handlebar can not move. The angle of the handlebar can be adjusted. To adjust; loosen all of the handlebar stem clamping bolts, and rotate the handlebar to the desired angle. Be sure that the handlebar stays centered in the stem. Retighten the bolts a LITTLE ata time being sure that the gap between the stem cap and stem stays even. Repeat tightening each bolt a little bit until handlebar is secure. (Fig. B)

Models with gear and/or brake cables:Locate the handlebar assembly. If your model bicycle comes equipped with gears and/or handbrakes, you will need to be sure that the brake cables and shift cables are properly routed. Position the handlebar assembly as if you were going to install it, andtake a look at the cables. They should run in a smooth arc from the shifter or brake lever to the front brake or cable stop on the frame. If they are twisted or kinked, the shifting and braking will not work. Rotate the handlebars around until the cables are taking the smoothest route. (Fig. C)

There are 2 basic types of handlebar mounting; Quill and Threadless.

QUILL STEMSThis is a handlebar assembly that has a wedge shaped part at the bottom of the stem that is inserted into the fork steer tube. Loosen the center bolt enough so that the wedge and stem can slide into the fork steer tube. Lower the stem until the mark that says “minimum insertion” is not visible. Tighten the stem center bolt so that the handlebar assembly is in line with the fork. If needed, you can re-check this after the front wheel is installed, and re-adjust. (Fig. D)

THREADLESS STEMSThis is a handlebar assembly that has a open ended stem with 1 or more pinch bolts that goes outside of the fork steer tube. For this system it is important not to disassemble the headset and lose any parts. Be sure that the end of the fork is on the ground or being held with your free hand, because once you loosen the top cap, the fork assembly may fall out of the frame. Loosen the top cap of the fork steer and remove any cardboard packing, the top cap, and bolt. Set these aside so you can easily retrieve them. While holding the fork assembly in place, slide the handlebar assembly onto the fork tube. Replace the top cap and bolt. Tighten the top cap bolt only until the handlebar assembly and fork have no free play, but so that the handlebar assembly and fork can still freely turn left and right. Then tighten the pinch bolt(s) evenly with the handlebar assembly facing forward. If needed you can re-check this after the front wheel is installed, and re-adjust. (Fig. E)

NOTE: Comfort Series bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position, and securely tightening the angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt. Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control. (Fig. F)

WARNING: If the stem is not inserted at least to the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider. Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.

INCORRECT CORRECT

FIG. C

FIG. D

FIG. E

FIG. F

FIG. A FIG. B

24 25

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

HANDLEBAR AND STEM1. Assemble the stem to the fork: If necessary, assemble the stem

to bolt (4),washer (5), and wedge nut (2) to the stem (1). Turn the stem bolt only four revolutions into the wedge nut (2). Point the stem toward the front of the bicycle and put it into the locknut. Put the stem at a comfortable height for the rider.

WARNING: To prevent steering system damage and possible loss of control, the “MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark on the stem must be inside the locknut. Make sure you can not see the “MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark (3) on the stem above the locknut. Tighten the stem bolt just enough that the stem will not fall into the locknut.

2. Assemble the handlebar to the stem: Put the handlebar into the stem, but do not tighten the handlebar clamp at this time. Align the stem with the front wheel and tighten the stem bolt

3. Assemble the brake lever to the handlebar. Loosen the clamp screw of each brake lever. If necessary, move the handlebar to each side to install the brake levers put the brake levers on the handlebar with the brake lever for the rear brake on the right side of handlebar. Do not tighten the clamp screw of the brake levers at this time.

4. Tighten stem bolt and the handlebar clamp:

WARNING: do not overtighten the stem bolt. Over tightening the stem bolt can damage the steering and cause loss of control. Make

sure the stem is aligned with the front wheel and tighten stem bolt.

MINIMUMINSERTION

LINE

Stem Diagram Adjuster Bolt

HeadsetTop Cap

Stem

BinderBolts

Headset

Frame

Handlebar

ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR STEMAND HEADSETNOTE: the handlebar stem and headset are an integrated system. Both must be adjusted at the same time.

1. To adjust the headset or stem, irst loosen the two stem binder bolts, then the adjuster bolt in the top cap.

2. Align the handlebar stem with the front wheel.

3. To remove play from the headset, begin by tightening the adjuster bolt in the top cap. This will tighten the headset and remove side to side movement of the fork. If the fork fails to rotate freely, the adjuster bolt is too tight and needs to be loosened. WARNING: Do not over tighten the adjuster bolt. Its function is to adjust the headset. The stem binder bolts’ function is to hold the fork

and stem in place.

4. Once the headset is adjusted, tighten the two stem binder bolts to the recommended torque of 140 pounds per inch. Do not over tighten these bolts.

WARNING: Do not over tighten the stem binder bolts and handlebar binder bolts. Failure to properly tighten these bolts

may damage the handlebar and/or stem to fork assembly. This may compromise the steering action, causing you to possibly lose control, and possibly injure yourself.

26 27

HANDLEBAR AND STEM (CONTINUED)

Put the handlebar in a comfortable position for the rider

WARNING: if the handlebar clamp is not tight enough, the handlebar can slip in the stem. This can cause loss of control.

Tighten the bolts of the handlebar clamp. If the handlebar clamp has more than one bolt, then tighten the bolts equally.

5. Test the tightness of the stem: straddle the front wheel and hold it between your legs.

Try to turn the front wheel by turning the handlebar. If the handlebar and stem turn with out turning the front wheel, realign the stem with the front wheel.

Tighten the bolt tighter than you did before (about half a revolutiononly at a time).

Do this test again, until the handlebar and stem do not turn withoutturning the wheel.

NOTE: the recommended torque of 14 -17 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten.

6. Test the tightness of the handlebar: Hold the bicycle stationary and try to move the ends of the handlebar forward or backward.If the handlebar moves , loosen bolts of handlebar clamps. Put the handlebar in the correct position

Tighten the bolts of the handlebar clamp tighter than before If the handlebar clamp has more than one bolt, tighten the bolts equally

Do this test again, until the handlebar does not move in the handlebar clamp.

WARNING: Do not exceed 100lbs downward force.

ASSEMBLE THE FRONT WHEEL TO THE FORK AS

SHOWN:

Insert wheel into position making sure the axle (1) is aligned with the fork dropout (2)

- Make sure the tab of each security washer (4) is in the hole of the fork

NOTE: Some models have a front fork with a built in wheel retention feature. The security washers are not required and will not i t on a fork with this feature.

- Using the two axle nuts (3) with serrations, tighten axle nuts and secure the front wheel.

WARNING: Do not use the nuts without serrations to attach the front wheel.

NOTE: the recommended torque of 21 ft-lbs.

SECURITY WASHER DIAGRAM

SECURITYWASHER

3

1

2

AXLENUT

AXLE

FORKDROPOUT

4

3

HUB INSERTION DIAGRAM

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

WARNING: Do not overtighten the stem bolt. Overtightening the stem bolt can damage the steering system and can cause loss of control If necessary, re-adjust Handlebar. Tighten Clamp nut. (6)

28 29

Quick Release Wheels1. Locate the quick release skewer from the small parts carton of your

bicycle. Some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that both tread patterns face the same way. (Fig. A)

2. Unscrew the lock nut from the quick release skewer, remove outer spring and slide the skewer through the front wheel axle so that the handle is on the left side of the bike (the side opposite the chain). (Fig. B)

3. Install spring and then start to thread the lock nut back onto the skewer, but do not tighten too far.

4. Slide the wheel into the fork wheel slots and be sure that the wheel is centered.

5. Inspect the handle, note that there’s an “open” and a “closed” position. Move the handle so it is in the “open” position. With one hand on the handle and one hand on the lock nut, start to hand tighten the lock nut until you start to feel some resistance with the fork.

6. Try to close the handle. If it closes easily, open it up, and tighten the lock nut further. If it is too dificult to close, open the handle up, and loosen the lock nut a little and try again.

7. The quick release handle should be dificult to push closed with your palm, but should be possible. Practice opening and closing the handle until you feel comfortable. DO NOT attempt to tighten the wheel by turning the handle to tighten; the handle is for closing, the lock nut (opposite side) is for adjusting the tension. (Fig. C)

Next go back and check that the handlebars are perpendicular to the front wheel, go back to handlebar assembly and re-adjust if needed.

All quick release levers should be inspected before every ride to be sure they are fully closed and secure. Failure to properly close a quick release lever can cause loss of control of the bicycle resulting in injury or death.

Make sure the wheel is properly seated and the quick release isproperly closed.

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

CLOSE

FIG. A

FIG. B

FIG. C

Front Fender InstallationUse Screw Driver and Wrench:

1. Front fender attaching hardware has been pre-assembled onto the fork. Remove the Bolt (8) and Washer (9) and Nut (10) from the fork crown.

2. Remove lower mounting Bolts (7) and Washers (6) from the dropout before starting (Fig. 01).

3. Place the Fender (3) in the fork with the longer fork mounting tab (A) on the rear side of the fork (Fig. 02).

4. Insert the Bolt (8) through the Washer (9) and Fender tabs and fork mounting hole.

5. Install Nut (9) onto Bolt (8)and tighten securely.

6. Line up the lower Fender Braces (B) with the Fork Mounting Tabs (C) (Fig. 03).

7. Insert each lower mounting Bolt (7) and Washer (6) into the Fork Mounting Tabs (C) and tighten securely.

7

6

8

910

8

A

10

9

3

7

6

B

C

FIG. 01

FIG. 02

FIG. 03

30 31

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

HAND OPERATED BRAKESHand operated brakes have a separate hand lever to operate front and rear brakes. Front hand brake levers are located on the left side of the handlebar, and rear hand brake levers are located on the right side of the handlebar. Hand operated brakes may be used alone or on some models in conjunction with foot operated brakes. It is OK to operate one brake at a time, or all together, depending on your style, comfort, and riding conditions, however, be careful to pay close attention to front brakes locking up;

CAUTION: If the front brake is applied too quickly or too hard, the front wheel can stop turning resulting in a front pitch over or cause the bicycle to lose steering function leading to a crash.

To best avoid this, apply the front and rear brakes simultaneously, while shifting your body weight back slightly to compensate for braking force. As terrain changes, the rider must practice and learn how each bicycle will respond in a new terrain or weather change. The same bicycle will react differently if it is wet, or if there is gravel on the road etc. Always test the brakes and be sure you feel comfortable with the reaction. If the riding conditions are too steep (off road for example) and you are unsure, dismount the bicycle and walk past the questionable terrain before riding again. Remember that as you apply the brakes your weight will want to shift forward, and the wheels will want to stop. See Assembly and Maintenance for further information on brake adjustment. (Fig. D)

Rear Fender InstallationNote: Top Fender mount is loose (Fig. 06) to allow installation.

1. Line up the Rear Fender Braces (A) with the Frame Mounting Tabs (B) (Fig. 05).

2. Insert each lower mounting Bolt (7) and Washer (6) into the Frame Mounting Tabs (B) and tighten securely. Make sure fender is centered over tire.

Tighten Top Fender Mount:

3. Tighten Bolt (11) and Nut (10) securely. Make sure fender is centered over tire (Fig. 06).

Note: Ensure wheel spins freely without contacting frame or fender. 67

B

B

A

1110

FIG. 05

FIG. 06

32 33

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

Cable head

Ferrule

anchor nut

Cable adjusting barrel

Handlebar

Grip

Brake Lever

Center Bolt(fixing nut in back)

Cable

Cableadjustingbarrel

Brake shoe

Brakearm

FIG. A

FIG. B

FIG. C

FRONT BRAKE

CAUTION: Improper use of the front brake may cause front wheel to lock up resulting in loss of directional control or front pitch over.

Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the appropriate assembly instructions below. *Additionally some freestyle models may be equipped with a “cable detangler”. See assembly steps for cable detangler.

CALIPER BRAKE

If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, slide the head of the brake cable into the brake lever per the diagram, and thread the cable through the slot in the brake lever so the cable end rests squarely in the adjustment barrel or cable end rests in the recess of the brake lever. (Fig. A)

Brake adjustment

If the brake cable is disconnected at the caliper, thread the brake wire through the adjustment barrel, loosen the cable anchor bolt until you can see a hole through the anchor bolt for the cable wire to attach, thread the cable wire through the cable anchor and snug the cable anchor by hand. (Fig. B)

Check to be sure the cable is seated in the brake lever. Loosen the cable anchor bolt just enough to allow the cable wire to move freely. With your left hand squeeze the caliper brake until both brake pads contact the rim. While holding the brake closed with your left hand, use your right hand to pull the brake cable tight (through the cable anchor) again inspecting that the cable end is seated in the brake lever, andthe barrel adjuster of the brake. Tighten the cable anchor as much as you can by hand, and then while still squeezing the brake, tighten the cable anchor fully with a wrench. (Fig. C)

COASTER BRAKEAPPLY PRESSURE TO SLOW DOWN OR STOP

The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism, which is a part of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks (see the coaster brake diagram). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.

CAUTION: Before riding, make sure that the brake is working properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle checked by your dealer before you ride it.

Adjusting your coaster brake

Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.

WARNING: If you do not obey the following instructions, injury to the rider or to others can occur:

Then test the brakes and practice using them at low speed in a large and level area that is free of obstruction.

When correctly used, the brake system is very effective. But, if you apply the coaster brake too strongly you may lose traction in the rear wheel putting the bicycle into a slide.

Always try to brake while going in a straight line. Apply brakes earlier with less pressure in the following conditions: wet pavement, sand, gravel, leaves, or if you need to brake while turning. To reduce the chance of skidding apply brakes intermittently.

Be careful when riding downhill or at a high speed because as your speed increases, a longer distance to stop the bicycle will be necessary. Slow for curves because too much speed can force you to make a turn too wide. Do not touch coaster brake after used in high speed situations. Coaster brake will get hot and may cause a burn.

CoasterBrakeDiagram

APPLY PRESSURE TO PEDAL

TO SLOW DOWN OR STOP

34 35

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

1-2 mm

Brake pad alignedwith the rim surface

Pad and rim shouldbe parallel

CORRECT

INCORRECT

Noodle

Cable head

Ferrule

Grip

Handlebar

Cable adjusting barrel

Brake lever

LINEAR PULL BRAKES

If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, slide the head of the brake cable into the brake lever per the diagram, and thread the cable through the slot in the brake lever so the cable end rests squarely in the adjustment barrel or cable end rests in the recess of the brake lever. (Fig. H)

If the brake cable is disconnected at the brake arm, with left hand, squeeze the 2 brake halves together until the brake pads touch the rims. With your right hand pull the brake cable so that the stepped end of the “noodle” can be inserted into the brake carrier.

Brake adjustment

Check to be sure the cable is seated in the brake lever. Loosen the cable anchor bolt just enough to allow the cable wire to move freely. With your left hand squeeze the caliper brake until both brake pads contact the rim. While holding the brake closed with your left hand, use your right hand to pull the brake cable tight (through the cable anchor. Again inspecting that the cable end is seated in the brake lever, and the barrel adjuster of the brake. Tighten the cable anchor as much as you can by hand, and then while still squeezing the brake, tighten the cable anchor fully with a wrench. (Fig. I)

Check the brake pads to be sure they are aligned with the rim, and that they do not contact the tire when the brake is applied. Adjust brake pads if needed. Then squeeze and release the brake several times squeezing as hard as you can. After this the cable may “stretch” and need to be tightened further. If so, repeat cable tightening steps. (Fig. J)

Centering brake

If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or one side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the wheel is not centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look at the gap between the tire and the fork or frame on either side. If it is not even, loosen wheel axle nuts and center the wheel, then proceed to centering the brake.

If the brake is not centered; use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten or loosen the screws on either side of the linear pull brake where they mount to the frame

FIG. H

FIG. I

FIG. J

1-2 mm

Brake pad alignedwith the rim surface

Pad and rim shouldbe parallel

CORRECT

INCORRECT

Equal spacebetweenthe brake

and the rim

Rim

Brake Pads

Check the brake pads to be sure they are square to the rim, and do not contact the tire when the brake is applied. Adjust brake pads if needed. Then squeeze and release the brake several times squeezing as hard as you can. After this the cable may “stretch” and need to be tightened further. If so, repeat cable tightening steps. (Fig. E)

Centering Brake

If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or one side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the wheel is not centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look at the gap between the tire and the fork or frame on either side. If it is not even, loosen wheel axle nuts and center the wheel, then proceed to centering the brake. (Fig. F)

If the brake is not centered; loosen the nut on the back of the brake. Squeeze the brake and hold the brake lever closed, while re-tightening the lock nut on the back of the brake. Watch the brake, if it begins to shift or rotate, then release the brake lever, and use your hand to rotate the brake caliper back until both sides of the brake move equally. Sometimes it is necessary to over rotate the brake slightly, so that as you tighten the locknut, the brake will end up centered. Repeat the steps until the brake is centered.

Brake is correctly adjusted when:• The brake pads do not drag on the rim when the brake is open.• Both brake pads move away from the rim equally when the brake is released.• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the brake

lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar. (Fig. G)

After adjusting brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering, and brake lever travel. If the brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake pad adjustments. Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position by spinning the wheel and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rim on either side. Readjust as needed. Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the rim. If the cable has stretched or slipped, readjust brake cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and pulling more cable through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for ine tuning brake cable tension.

FIG. D FIG. E

FIG. F

FIG. G

36 37

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

Cable head

Ferrule

Grip

Handlebar

Cable adjusting barrel

Brake lever

Fork leg

Cable anchor bolt

DISC BRAKE

If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, line up brake barrel slots with brake lever slot before installing the cable. Then slide the head of the brake cable into the brake lever per the diagram, and thread the cable through the slot in the brake lever so the cable end rests squarely in the adjustment barrel or cable end rests in the recess of the brake lever. (Fig. M)

If the brake cable is disconnected at the disc caliper, thread the brake wire through the adjustment barrel, loosen the cable anchor bolt until you can see a hole through the anchor bolt for the cable wire to attach, thread the cable wire through the cable anchor and snug the cable anchor by hand. (Fig. N)

Centering brake

If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or one side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the wheel is not centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look at the gap between the tire and the fork or frame on either side. If it is not even, loosen wheel axle nuts and center the wheel, then proceed to centering the brake. (Fig. O, Fig. P)

If the brake is not centered, look at the disc brake caliper for centering adjustment screws at the center of the brake pad on either side. (Fig. O) Looking down into the brake where the brake pads contact the disc rotor, determine which side needs to move away or towards the disc. Turn the centering adjustment screws so that there is about 1/32 of an inch of clearance on either side of the disc rotor. Spin the front wheel and listen for any rubbing noise or excess friction. Repeat the steps until the brake is centered.

Brake is correctly adjusted when:• The brake pads do not drag on the rotor when the brake is open.• Both brake pads move away from the rotor equally when the brake is

released.• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the

brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar. (Fig. Q)

FIG. M

FIG. N

or fork. If you turn the screw clockwise it will increase spring tension on that side, counter clockwise to decrease spring tension. Start by increasing tension on the side that is not moving or not moving enough. Turn only about ½ turn at a time, and try squeezing and releasingthe brake lever a few times to see the difference. Repeat until the brake is centered. If you run out of adjustment, you can go to the other side and loosen the screw slightly to continue adjusting the brake. When the brake is correctly adjusted, both sides should move evenly when the brake lever is squeezed, and when released, the wheel should rotate with no brake shoe contact. (Fig. K)

Brake is correctly adjusted when:• Both brake pads move away from the rim equally when the brake is

released.• The brake pads do not drag on the rim when the brake is open.• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the

brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar (Fig. L)

After adjusting brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering, and brake lever travel. If the brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake pad adjustments. Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position by spinning the wheel and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rim on either side. Readjust as needed. Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the rim. If the cable has stretched or slipped, readjust brake cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and pulling more cable through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for ine tuning brake cable tension.

FIG. K

FIG. L

38 39

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

DERAILLEURAlthough the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before riding the bicycle.

REAR DERAILLEUR

Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated and place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable, pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel adjuster to ine tune each gear by turning it the direction you want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the wheel, while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog. Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again, shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly. (Fig. A, Fig. B)

Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain does not fall off in either direction.

Freewheel

Outer side of top gear

Pulleyadjustment

screw

Adjustmentscrews

SIS cableadjuster

TensionPulley

GuidePulley

High gearadjustment

screw

Low gearadjustment

screw

Barreladjuster

FIG. A

FIG. B

DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well as your hands.

These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13 miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake should be cleaned before the irst ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil or similar products to clean your disc brake system.

WARNING: Disc brakes are sharp, keep ingers away from brake caliper and rotor. If ingers contact brake while wheel is turning injury can occur.

After adjusting brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering, and brake lever travel. If the brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake pad adjustments. Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position by spinning the wheel and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rotor on either side. Readjust as needed. Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the rotor. If the cable has stretched or slipped, readjust brake cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and pulling more cable through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for ine tuning brake cable tension.

Adjust brakecaliper so disc

is centeredbetween

brake pads

FIG. O

FIG. P

FIG. Q

40 41

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

1

2

AVOID THESE GEARS!

GEAR OPERATIONMulti speed bicycles can have internal or derailleur gear systems.

WARNING: Improper shifting can result in the chain jamming,or becoming derailed resulting in loss of control or a crash.

Always be sure the chain is fully engaged in the desired gearbefore pedaling hard.

Avoid shifting while standing up on the pedals or under load.

To shift properly, pedal the bicycle with little pressure on the pedals, and move the shifter (1) gear at a time, ensuring that the chain is fully engaged in that gear before applying more pressure on the pedals. For bicycles with 3 front chain rings; avoid “Cross Chaining”, which is the position when the chain is in the smallest cog in the rear combined with the inner or smallest chain ring in the front, or the largest cog in the rear and the outer or largest chain ring in the front. These gear positions put the chain at the most extreme angle and can cause premature wear to the drivetrain. Bicycles with 3 front chain rings have enough gear “overlaps” that these gears are not needed. (Fig. A)

INTERNAL GEARS (no derailleur)An internal gear system is one where the gears are housed within the rear hub of the bicycle. With internally geared bicycles, it is recommended to STOP pedaling while you shift gears. The bike may be sitting still or rolling to shift. Shifter designs vary, you will either twist or operate a push button to change gears. The shifter will indicate either “low to “high” or a series of numbers from 1 up. Low or “1” is the lowest gear. This is used for slower riding, hill climbing, or to allow for easier pedaling. It is recommended to start off in this gear and move through the gears as speed increases as needed, or comfortable. It is OK to ride the whole time in only one gear if this is comfortable. Backpedaling should have no effect on an internally geared bicycle (unless it is equipped with foot activated brakes), however, backpedaling should not be necessary when riding, and invites the possibility of clothing being caught in the chain, and should be avoided. See Assembly and Maintenance for further information on proper gear adjustment.

FIG. A

FIG. B

FRONT DERAILLEUR

(Fig. C) Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 1-3mm when fully engaged. With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the largest cog in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the front derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull any slack out, and tighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift the front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4 turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off. Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to ine tune each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.

WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling standing up, or under heavy load, nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle and/or rider.

Low adjusting screw

Cableanchor bolt

High adjustingscrew

Chainguide clearanceof 1-3mm

Outer chainguide

Innerchainguide

FIG. C

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BICYCLE

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FRONT SHIFTER Note that not all models have a front shifter. The front (left) shifter will have an indicator that reads either “low to “high” or a series of numbers from 1 up. Low or “1” is the lowest gear.

The front shifter acts much like the rear shifter, but the change between gears is greater. This means that one shift at the rear derailleur will be a subtle change in pedaling speed, but one shift at the front derailleur will be a large change in pedaling speed. Think of the front shifter as a “range”, low and high or low, medium, and high. Low is used for slower riding, hill climbing, or to allow for easier pedaling. It is recommended to start off in this gear and move through the gears as speed increases as needed, or comfortable. It is OK to ride the whole time in only one gear if this is comfortable. Shift only while pedaling forward. When shifting, lessen the pressure exerted on the pedals during the shift. Once you have successfully shifted gears, it is OK to start to pedal hard if desired. Pedaling hard while shifting can cause the chain to skip and not engage the appropriate gear. Backpedaling should be avoided on derailleurbikes because the chain can jam and cause the bike to become unstable.

EXTERNAL GEARS (Derailleur equipped bicycles)Derailleur equipped bicycles all have a rear derailleur. Some may also have a front derailleur offering more gear choices. The right side shifter will operate the rear derailleur, and the left side (if equipped) will operate the front derailleur. On derailleur equipped bicycles, it is important to be pedaling forward when shifting gears. This allows the chain to “derail” from one gear to the next. Operating the shifter while sitting still or not pedaling can cause damage to the system, and can be dangerous, as the chain may jam and cause the bike to become unstable. (Fig. A)

Avoid back pedaling on any bicycle with derailleurs. Backpedaling can derail the chain and cause it to jam or fall off the gears. When shifting gears, make sure you pedal forward until the gear has completely changed. (At least one full rotation of the pedals.) Failure to do so, may result in the chain not engaging properly the next time you pedal forward, or falling off altogether causing a possible danger when you attempt to pedal again. Remember always pedal through the gear change on a derailleur equipped bicycle.

REAR SHIFTERThe rear shifter (right) will have an indicator that reads either “low to “high” or a series of numbers from 1 up. Low or “1” is the lowest gear. This is used for slower riding, hill climbing, or to allow for easier pedaling. It is recommended to start off in this gear and move through the gears as speed increases as needed, or comfortable. It is OK to ride the whole time in only one gear if this is comfortable. Shift only while pedaling forward and seated. When shifting, lessen the pressure exerted on the pedals during the shift. Once you have successfully shifted gears, it is OK to start to pedal hard if desired. Pedaling hard while shifting can cause the chain to skip and not engage the appropriate gear. Backpedaling should be avoided on derailleur bikes because the chain can jam and cause the bike to become unstable. See Assembly and Maintenance for further information on proper gear adjustment. (Fig. B)

Freewheelcogs

Frontderailleur

Rearderailleur

Guidepulley

Frontchainwheels

Crank armPedal

Derailleurcontrol cable

FIG. A

FIG. B

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BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

Front/reardrop outs

Front/rearhub

Retainingwasher

Axle nut

Step retainingwasher

Inner axleBrace

stabilizerwasher

C-Shapedwheelbrace

Axle nut

Trainingwheel Inner axle nut

DO NOT REMOVE

PEGSSome models may come equipped with 2 or 4 pegs. To install pegs, DO NOT loosen or remove axle nuts. Check to make sure axle nuts are properly tightened before installing pegs. Thread the pegs on the axle over the axle nut, and insert a screwdriver or similar tool through the peg holes and tighten by turning the peg with the tool. (Fig. A)

Periodically check to make sure pegs are tight.

TRAINING WHEELSAttaching training wheel brace to bicycleThere are three different braces used to attach the training wheels to the bicycle: the c-shape brace, the lat brace and the lat brace with stabilizer. Determine which brace was included with your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular brace.

C-SHAPE BRACERemove the outer axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align the washer so that the notch on the washer its into the rear frame drop out. Next, place the C-shaped wheel brace onto the axle and replace the washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut securely, making sure that the wheel brace stays in the proper vertical position. The elongated hole on the wheel brace allows the training wheel height to be adjusted for proper it. (Fig. B)

FIG. A

FIG. B

SCREWDRIVER

8mm

10mm

HEADLIGHT (Requires 2 D cell batteries - not included) 1. To install the headlight please use a philips head screwdriver and an 8mm wrench (both included in small parts box.)

Remove the screw and open the headlight case. Ensure to put the screw and nut in a secure place.

2. Place 2 D cell alkaline batteries inside the battery tray. Follow the orientation icons to ensure the batteries are in the right position.

3. Close the lid and replace the screw and secure by tightenning the screw and nut.

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BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

TIRE VALVESThe tire valve allows air to enter the tire’ s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’ t let it back out unless you want it to.

There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other designs, but they are seldom seen in the US anymore): The Schrader Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the itting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.

The Schrader (Shown) is like the valve on a car tire. To inlate a Schrader valve tube, just remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump itting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schrader valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.

The Presta (Shown) has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inlate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inlate. To inlate a Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter its the end of the air hose itting.

SHRADER VALVE

PRESTA VALVE

Flat wheel brace

Trainingwheel

Brace stabilizerwasher

Axle nut

Inner axle

Inner axle nutDO NOT REMOVE

Trainingwheel

Wheelbrace

Axle nut

Washer

Stabilizer bracket

FIG. C

FIG. D

TRAINING WHEELS (CONTINUED)

FLAT BRACE

It is very important to check the training wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten may cause the training wheel to dislodge. Please contact Columbia Bicycles Service with any questions.

Remove the outer axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Place the lat wheel brace onto the axle. Next place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align it so that the notch its into the rear frame drop out. Replace the washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut securely, making sure that the wheel brace stays in the proper vertical position. The elongated hole on the wheel brace allows the training wheel height to be adjusted for proper it. (Fig. C)

TRAINING WHEEL STABILIZER BRACKET

Remove the outer axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Insert the wheel brace into the stabilizer bracket so that the forked end of the stabilizer bracket faces in. Slide assembly onto the rear axle so that the forked end hooks around the chain stay of the bicycle. Replace the axle nut and washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows for raising and lowering the training wheel to the proper height. (Fig. D)

NOTICE: Not all bicycles will accept training wheels. If your bike did not come stock with training wheels, please call Columbia Bicycles Service to help determine if after-market training wheels can be attached.

48 49

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BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

INSPECTION OF BEARINGSMaintenance: Frequently check the bearings of the bicycle. Have a bicycle service shop lubricate the bearings once a year or any time they do not pass the following tests.

Head Tube Bearings: The fork should turn freely and smoothly at all times. With the front wheel off the ground, you should not be able to move the fork up, down, or side-to-side in the head tube.

Crank Bearings: The crank should turn freely and smoothly at all times and the front sprockets should not be loose on the crank. You should not be able to move the pedal end of the crank from side-to-side.

Wheel Bearings: Lift each end of the bicycle off the ground and slowly spin the raised wheel by hand. The bearings are correctly adjusted if:

The wheel spins freely and easily. The weight of the spoke relector, when you put it toward the front or rear of the bicycle, causes the wheel to spin back and forth several times. There is no side-to-side movement at the wheel rim when you push it to the side with light force.

LUBRICATION / MAINTENANCE

WARNING: Do not over lubricate. If oil gets on the wheel rims or the brake shoes, it will reduce brake performance and a longer distance to stop the bicycle will be necessary. Injury to the rider or to others can occur.

The chain can throw excess oil onto the wheel rim. Wipe excess oil off the chain.

Keep all oil off the surfaces of the pedals where your feet rest.

Using soap and hot water, wash all oil off the wheel rims, the brake shoes, the pedals, and the tires. Rinsewith clean water and dry completely before you ride the bicycle.

REPAIR AND SERVICEWARNING: Inspect the bicycle frequently. Failure to inspect the bicycle and to make repairs or adjustments, as necessary can result in injury to the rider or to others. Make sure all parts are correctly assembled and adjusted as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions.”

Immediately replace any damaged, missing, or badly worn parts.

Make sure all fasteners are correctly tightened as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions.” Parts that are not tight enough can be lost or operate poorly. Overtightened parts can be damaged. Make sure any replacement fasteners are the correct size and type.

If your frame is aluminum, inspect the bicycle frame carefully and frequently. Aluminum frames can develop very small cracks due to stress, severe shocks, etc. If you see any small cracks, stop riding the bicycle. Have the frame inspected by a qualiied professional at a bicycle service shop before riding the bicycle again.

NOTE: Have a bicycle service shop make any repairs or adjustments for which you do not have the correct tools or if the instructions in this manual or any “Special Instructions” are not suficient for you.

REAR WHEEL/CHAIN ADJUSTMENTMaintenance: The chain must be at the correct tightness. If too tight, the bicycle will be dificult to pedal. If too loose, the chain can come off the sprockets.

WARNING: The chain must remain on the sprockets. If the chain comes off the sprockets, the bike will not operate.

When the chain (1) is at the correct tightness, you can pull it one-half inch (2) away from a straightedge (3) as shown.

1

2

3

1

3

2

50 51

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ASSEMBLY

TIRESMaintenance: Frequently check the tire inlation pressure because all tires lose air slowly over time. For extended storage, keep the weight of the bicycle off the tires.

WARNING: Do not ride or sit on the bicycle if either inner tube is under inlated. This can damage the tire and inner tube. Do not use unregulated air hoses to inlate the inner tubes. An unregulated hose can suddenly over inlate bicycle tires and cause them to burst.

Use a hand or a foot pump to inlate the inner tubes. Service station meter-regulated air hoses are also acceptable. The correct inlation pressure is shown on the tire sidewall.

Before adding air to any tire, make sure the edge of the tire (the bead) is the same distance from the rim, all around the rim, on both sides of the tire. If the tire does not appear to be seated correctly, release air from the inner tube until you can push the bead of the tire into the rim where necessary. Add air slowly and stop frequently to check the tire sealing and the pressure, until you reach the correct inlation pressure as indicated on the tire sidewall.

Replace worn or defective tires and inner tubes.

TIRE REMOVAL1. Let the air out of the tire by depressing the valve core (the little pin

in the centre of the valve stem opening).

2. Separate the tire bead from the sides of the rim by pressing with your thumbs. Work your way around the tire on both sides to be sure that the beads of the tire are not sticking to the rim. (Figure A)

3. Stand the wheel up on a irm surface with the valve stem on the bottom and grasp the upper part of the tire with both hands. Try to roll the tire off the far side of the rim.

4. With the wheel standing as in Figure B, use bicycle tire tools or spoon handles with rounded ends (at least two - preferably three) to lift the bead on one side of the tire off the rim. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube between the tire tools and the tire bead or rim. Once you have got the bead off for about one fourth of the circumference of the tire using the tools, the rest can usually be pulled off by hand.

5. With the bead on one side of the tire completely off the rim, you can now pull the inner tube out from between the tire and rim everywhere except in the area of the valve stem.

6. It should now be easy to pull the tire the rest of the way off the rim. Start at the side of the wheel opposite the valve stem and simply lift the bead of the tire up over the side of the rim and pull it off.

Rim Strip

Spoke Ends

FIGURE APress with thumbs to

separate tire bead. Continue around

entire rim until the bead is completely

separated.

FIGURE BLift bead withspoons or tire

tools.

FIGURE CReplace tire

onto rim.

FIGURE DRim strip protects

inner tube fromspoke ends

FIGURE EUse thumb to pressvalve stem through

hole in rim. Makecertain valve stem

is straight.

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REPAIR AND SERVICE

WHEELS

Wheel InspectionIt is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle’s wheels will help braking performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:

Dirty or greasy rims:Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don’t ride while they’re wet. When lubricating your bicycle, don’t get oil on the rim braking surfaces.

Wheels not straight:Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of round. If wheels are not straight, they will need to be adjusted. This is quite dificult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.

Broken or loose spokes:Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected. Again, bicycle specialist best handles spoke repairs.

Loose hub bearings:Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.

Axle nuts:Check that these are tight before each ride.

Using a light machine oil (20W) and the following guidelines, lubricate the bicycle:

WHAT

Pedals

Chain

WHEN HOW

Every six months

Every six months

Put four drops of oil where each pedal axle goes into the pedal.

Put one drop of oil on each roller of the chain. Wipe all excess oil off the chain.

54 55

notes

Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks

To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten the locknut counter-clockwise.

1) Remove the chain from the chainwheel.

2) Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.

3) Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.

4) Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.

5) Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right and remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearings retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.

One Piece CrankAssembly

Crank

Chainwheel

WasherFixed Cone

Ball Retainer Bearing Cup

Adjusting Cone Washer

One Piece Crank Assembly

BICYCLE

ASSEMBLY

56

Bottom View

SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION

serial number

Fill in immediately and send in as a record of your purchase.Record Serial Number and retain in designated spot in front of this Manual.

Owners Name:

Address:

Date Purchased:

Model Name:

Wheel Size:

Serial Number:

Place of Purchase:

Color:

(ALSO RECORD AND RETAIN SERIAL NUMBER IN DESIGNATED SPOT IN FRONT OF THIS MANUAL)

To register online, check into our Owners Lounge at: www.columbia-bikes.com

IMPORTANT NOTICEBALLARD PACIFIC RESOURCES INC. WARRANTY

and Policy on Replacement Procedures and ResponsibilitiesYour purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser. No warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you speciic legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.FRAMEThe entire frame is guaranteed against faulty materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject to the condition of the warranty listed below. If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame will be replaced. For frame replacement under this Ballard Paciic Resources Inc. Warranty, contact us, stating the nature of the failure, model number, date received and the name of the store from which the bike was received, at the address given on this page. Frame must be returned for inspection at customers expense.PARTSAll other parts of the unit except Normal Wear Parts are warranted against defective materials and workmanship for a period of 1 years from the date of purchase by the initial consumer purchaser, subject to the Terms and Conditions of the warranty listed below. If failure of any part should occur during the warranty period. The part will be replaced for you if the failure was due to faulty materials or workmanship. There will be no cost to you except possibly for shipping and labor. Normal Wear Parts are deined as grips, tires, tubes, cables and saddle covering. These parts are warranted to be free from defects in material and workmanship as delivered with the product. Any claim for repair or replacement of Normal Wear Products must be made within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, improper assembly or maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended or compatible with the bicycle as sold. The warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, or theft. Claims involving these issues will not be honored.CONDITION OF WARRANTY1. Your bicycle has been designed for general transportation and recreational use, but has not been designed to withstand abuse associated with stunting

and jumping. This warranty ceases when you rent, sell, or give away the bicycle, ride with more than one person, or use the bicycle for stunting or jumping.2. This warranty does not cover ordinary wear and tear or anything you break accidentally or deliberately.3. It is the responsibility of the individual consumer purchaser to assure that all parts included in the factory-sealed carton are properly installed, all functional

parts are initially adjusted properly, and subsequent normal maintenance services and adjustments necessary to keep the bicycle in good operating condition are properly made. This warranty does not apply to damage due to improper installation of parts or failure to properly maintain or adjust the bicycle. NOTICE: Bicycle speciications subject to change without notice.

4. This bicycle was designed to be assembled and operated solely in accordance with the assembly instructions. If the purchaser and/or user alters, changes or modiies any of the components, the design or any original manufacturing speciications of the bicycle, all manufacturing warranties are null and void and Ballard Paciic Resources Inc. and any of its afiliated companies or manufacturing sources will not be liable for any damages, injuries or problems of any kind whatsoever. If you have any questions regarding this policy, please contact our warranty department.

5. The bicycle is intended for youths 13 years of age and older.

410 Adele Joplin, Mo 64801Call Toll Free: 1.866.424.0500Local: 417-206-0563Fax: 775-248-5155Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (CST)

For more info on Columbia Bicycles, visit us at www.columbia-bikes.com

For product related questions email us at: info@Columbia-bikes.com

For customer service questions email us at: service@Columbia-bikes.com

410 Adele Joplin, Mo 64801Call Toll Free: 1.866.424.0500Local: 417-206-0563Fax: 775-248-5155Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (CST)

For more info on Columbia Bicycles, visit us at www.columbia-bikes.com

For product related questions email us at: info@Columbia-bikes.com

For customer service questions email us at: service@Columbia-bikes.com

PURCHASE RECORD CARD

BALLARD PACIFIC

BALLARD PACIFIC

NEW

OWNER

410 Adele Joplin, Mo 64801Call Toll Free 1.866.424.0500

Local 417-206-0563Fax: 775-248-5155

Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (CST)

For product related questions email us at: info@Columbia-bikes.comFor customer service questions email us at: service@Columbia-bikes.com

BALLARD PACIFIC

www.columbia-bikes.com