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QUALITY CON- TROL SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY
Page 1
PROJECT SUPERVISOR:
MR.BABIR RAMZAN
PROJECT MEMBERS:
Syed khuram Hassan bet-sp07-003
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
THE UNIVERSITY OF FAISALABAD
PAKISTAN
Page 2
We hereby declare that this project, neither as a whole nor as a part therefore has been
copied out from any source. It is further declared that we develop this project and this re-
port entirely on the basis of our personal efforts made under the sincere guidance of our
project supervisor Sir Babar Ramzan.
We further declare that this project and all associated documents and records and partial
requirement for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering (Garments tech-
nology)
Page 3
WITH THE DEEP SENSE OF HONOUR
TO OUR BELOVED AND DEAREST
PARENTS & BROTHERS
RESPECTED TEACHERS
AND ALL THOSE
WHO DEVOTED THEIR YESTERDAY FOR
OUR
BRIGHT TODAY
Page 4
With the blessings of almighty ALLAH and prayers of our parents we made this humble
attempt to achieve the goal that we set for us in the beginning of final year. Although it
was not an easy task but with the devotion of our project team and cooperation of our re-
spected teachers we have at least succeeded in completion of our project.
The support and encouragement rendered by our CHENAB TEXTILE MILL staff was
very vital in the completion of this project, their guidance and encouragement played a
key role in the planning and completion of this project.
We are also very thankful to the Head of Department of Textile Engineering Mr.-
NAVEED AKHTAR for facilitating us. We are very thankful to our project advisor
MR.BABIR RAMZAN for his guidance and providing us the facilities which was the real
source of inspiration for the completion of this project.
In the end we are thankful to all the lab attendants and staff members without the cooper-
ation of whom the achievement of this goal would have been a dream only.
Page 5
ContentsChapter#1..................................................................................................................................................................11
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY..............................................................................11
Page 6
1.0. INTRODUCTION.........................................................................................................................................12
1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL.....................................................................................................14
1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL.........................................................................................................15
1.3. QUALITY TERMS........................................................................................................................................15
1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT...........................................................15
1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY.......................................................................................................................16
1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY.............................................................................................................................18
1.6.0.Introduction..............................................................................................................................................18
1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector....................................................................................19
1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS...........................................................................................................................20
1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS...............................................................................................................................21
1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector................................................................................22
Chapter#2..................................................................................................................................................................24
FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEMS..........................................................................................................24
2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION..............................................................................................................25
2.2. Four- Point System.........................................................................................................................................25
2.1.0Advantages................................................................................................................................................26
2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEM...................................................................................................................................27
2.3.0.Advantages...............................................................................................................................................28
2.3.1.Disadvantage............................................................................................................................................28
2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEM.....................................................................................................................28
2.5. DALLAS SYSTEM.......................................................................................................................................29
2.6. CONCLUSION..............................................................................................................................................29
Chapter #3.................................................................................................................................................................30
SPREADING AND CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM.........................................................................30
3.1. QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADING..........................................................................................31
3.2. SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS..............................................................................................31
3.3. Fabric Spreading Objective............................................................................................................................31
3.4. THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESS.......................................................................32
3.5. Type of Spreads.............................................................................................................................................33
3.6. General Fabric Spreading System..................................................................................................................33
3.7. Conclusion.....................................................................................................................................................35
3.8.1Cutting (Manual).......................................................................................................................................35
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3.8.2. Cutting (Auto).........................................................................................................................................35
3.9. Cut components inspection........................................................................................................................36
3.10. Cutting Room Functions..........................................................................................................................36
3.11. Requirements of Pattern Cutting..............................................................................................................36
3.16. Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting...................................................................................................37
3.13.Numbering................................................................................................................................................38
3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production............................................................................38
3.15. Panel Checking System............................................................................................................................38
3.16. Conventional cut parts inspection System...............................................................................................38
3.17. Conclusion...............................................................................................................................................39
Chapter #4.................................................................................................................................................................40
STITCHING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS....................................................................................................40
4.1. STITCHING...................................................................................................................................................41
4.2. 7-0 system......................................................................................................................................................41
4.2.1. Advantages..............................................................................................................................................41
4.2.2.Disadvantages..........................................................................................................................................41
4.3. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM.........................................................................................................................42
4.3.1. Advantages..............................................................................................................................................43
4.3.2. Disadvatages...........................................................................................................................................44
4.4. Conventional Quality Control System...........................................................................................................44
4.5. Random Inspection System:...........................................................................................................................44
4.6. GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHING DEPARTMENT...........................................44
4.7. Conclusion.....................................................................................................................................................45
Chapter#5..................................................................................................................................................................46
SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS.................................................................................................46
5.1. Cutting............................................................................................................................................................47
5.2.Sewing.............................................................................................................................................................47
5.2.1.Potential Major faults...............................................................................................................................48
5.2.2.Potential minor faults...............................................................................................................................48
5.3. Embroidery.....................................................................................................................................................49
5.4. Printing...........................................................................................................................................................50
5.5. Finishing and packaging................................................................................................................................51
5.6. Final Audit.....................................................................................................................................................51
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5.7. Clipping Inspection........................................................................................................................................52
5.8. Final inspection..............................................................................................................................................52
5.9. Pressing Inspection........................................................................................................................................55
5.10. SPECS INSPECTION..................................................................................................................................56
5.11. Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack).................................................................................................56
5.12. Packing inspection.......................................................................................................................................57
5.13. Conclusion...................................................................................................................................................57
References.................................................................................................................................................................58
Frome Websites:...................................................................................................................................................58
From Persons.........................................................................................................................................................59
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Chapter#1
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY
Page 10
1.0. INTRODUCTIONGarment manufacturing is quit different to any other conventional manufacturing. it is not a continuous
production method. Each style is different product that requires different type of fabric color buttons
thread etc.
Hence requirement of product integrity at every stage requires detailed knowledge about the quality pa-
rameters, quality problems, their causes and remedies. For quality production it is better to know the
complete process of garment making (selection of yarn-fabric production and garment manufacturing) so
that quality level can be improved.
If one say "improve quality improve productivity" with out showing how when and where we can
improve it. That will not solve the problem. Instead of that we should try to draw the attention of work
force towards the shortcomings inherent in the quality systems and processes.
To ensure a quality product the first step that manufacturer should take is the quality control and the
evaluation of input material.
The factories that control/ensure the fabric quality level don’t have worers with necessary skill level and
understanding. They don’t understand the types and inherent nature and characteristics of the fabric.
Some characters, which appear as fabric defect, may be nature of another type of fabric. There were
many instances where fabric is rejected due to this misunderstanding. There are no proper training facili -
ties courses, and material available in our country to enhance the knowledge of workers engaged in
knitwear production.
At present technological level, it impossible for any fabric mil to manufacture absolutely defect free fab-
ric. To control and evaluate the fabric and garment quality.
What is Quality?
Quality is unusually slippery and difficult to come to grip with. Therefore some might say “Quality is
something I know when I see it.
To some Quality is difficult to be explained like love or happiness. Once the concept of Quality is under-
stood fundamentally it stops being slippery and becomes something which can hold by its tail.
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According to dictionary Quality is: - an essential character: nature, an ingredient or distinguishing at-
tribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.
Different people have different views about quality.
The best money can buy
Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications.
Craftsmanship
The degree of excellence that an item possesses.
Product with no defect found
Absence of variation in its broad sense.
Meeting or exceeding customer expectation.
These responses depend on people’s perception of the value of a product or service under consideration
and their explanation of performance, durability, reliability etc. of that product or service.
Customer satisfaction
The key is to know accurately customer expectations on a continuing basis. Unless you know customer
expectations how could you satisfy a customer or meet or exceed their expectations.
For this it is essential to understand the 5w’s
Why
When
Where The customer is not satisfied???
What
Who
Therefore understanding the customer need is the priority in the Quality of a product.
Why do we buy a product?
We buy a product because we want to use that product.If the product that you bought has some defi-
ciency you will not be satisfied. Then you say that the product that you bought is defective, and you will
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be mentally worried every time you make use of the product and physically too you may not feel com-
fortable. Therefore Quality is also defined as “fitness for use”.
“The fitness for use” concept can be applied to garments too. For a garment to be fit for use provided its
style is acceptable: -
It must be free from defects such as stain, material (fabric) defects, open seams, loose hanging
broken stitches, Skip/Slip stitches, puckered seams, misaligned components/buttons/buttonholes,
defective trims and accessories etc.
It must fit properly for the label size.
It must look attractive.
It must perform satisfactorily in normal use that a garment must be able to withstand normal
laundering/dry cleaning/pressing cycles. Without loss of color or shrinkage; seams must not
come apart; fabric must not tear, etc.
“Quality is a matter of your taste, training and attitude, and your understanding of taste, culture and atti-
tudes of your buyers.
The better the understanding between two, the better the quality”
1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROLThe essential requirements for producing a reliable product has been stated as follows:-
A satisfactory design of product, thoroughly proved by adequate development testing in order to estab-
lish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use. This is the Requisite Quality
of the product. A full specification of the requirements of this quality, which must be clearly understood
by everyone concerned with the production of the constituent parts and of the complete end product.
Confirmation that the manufacturing processes are capable of meeting these requirements. Full accep-
tance, by all those concerned with production, of the responsibility for meeting the standards set by the
specification. Checks on the product at every stage of manufacture to detect any departures from the
specification. Record essential information derived from these checks to provide accurate evidence for
action. Establishment of lines of communication, - i.e. Feedback to Production, - to ensure that this ac-
tion is taken to effect the appropriate adjustments to materials, process and operatives to maintain FU-
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TURE production within the specification. Instruction in the use, applications and limitations of the
product. A study of user experience, feedback to the department's concerned, and rapid remedial action.
1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROLIn a total quality control scheme, the total involvement of all personnel is required as a philosophy.
The staff concerned in all duties must be given authority to carry out their functions. These functions
should be defined.
Lines of communication and responsibility should be established to carry out an effective policy. Hori -
zontal communication at all levels of personnel between Quality Control, Production and other depart-
ments is needed. Also there must be vertical lines, which follow the lines of responsibility and authority.
In order to achieve this aim, the terms of reference under which staff work, must be established. This is,
perhaps, best accomplished by job descriptions. It is the job of Quality Control to establish the correct
information concerning a quality situation, and present this clearly to their colleagues. Persons outside
Quality Control must be authorised to make the commercial decisions involved from a pre-established
series of options, the consequences of each being fully understood. Payment schemes should be re-ex-
amined where necessary to reward quality as well as production, in a balanced way, since both are com-
mercially important.
1.3. QUALITY TERMSQuality
“ It is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed
for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold”
Quality Control
"The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an orga-
nization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assur -
ance or Total Quality Control.
Quality Assurance
"The establishment and maintenance of all activities and functions concerned with the attainment of req-uisite quality"
1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENTINDULGE AND MONITOR QUALITY SYSTEMS
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The Q/A dept is required to induce the Q/C dept to implement standard quality systems required by buy-
ers to improve and maintain a very good OQL.The implemented quality system should be monitored on
a daily basis. So that the system runs without any failure. Under no circumstances the systems should be
changed or stopped.The quality system should be very strong so that nothing could penetrate through
and result in failure of audits or re-screening.
TRAINING AND EVALUATING QUALITY STAFF
It is the prime responsibility of the senior quality staff to train all the Q/A staff toAchieve skilled lev -
els within a short frame of time.The Q/A dept in coordination with the production dept and Q/C dept
should train the Q/C team to achieve skilled levels.A training program should be designed which will en-
able to execute simple and proper training to enhance the skill levels of Q/C and Q/A staff up to stan-
dard.The Q/A department will evaluate all the inline and final quality control inspectors on their perfor -
mance.The evaluation will be based on the over all quality level less than 4 % for any merit or reward
systems.
ASSURE THE QUALITY OF PRODUCTS
Q/A will performance audits at cutting stage to assure the cut products to confirm required quality stan-
dard at OQL 1.5 %.The inline Q/A Auditor will perform random audits to assure stitching quality of
products. The objective will be to inspect and identify the problems and give Corrective action to the
root cause of the problems, The Q/A auditor will highlight the problems to the Q/C dept for corrective
action. The inline audits will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5 with a view of preventing re-occurrence of the
problems. The Finishing Q/A officers will audit finished goods before packing with the same .Objective
and concentrate more on the presentation of the final products. The audit will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5.
The Final Q/A Auditor will conduct audit for quality and specs. The final auditor will also conduct pack-
ing audit to ensure the Ratio, Color, Cartoning, Packing accuracy, Presentation, Packing accessories,
CTN marks and numbers etc.
1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY
Dimension 1: Performance
Does the product or service do what it is supposed to do, within its defined tolerances?
Page 15
Performance is often a source of contention between customers and suppliers, particularly when deliver-ables are not adequately defined within specifications.
The performance of a product often influences profitability or reputation of the end-user. As such, many contracts or specifications include damages related to inadequate performance.
Dimension 2: Features
Does the product or services possess all of the features specified, or required for its intended purpose?
While this dimension may seem obvious, performance specifications rarely define the features required in a product. Thus, it’s important that suppliers designing product or services from performance specifi-cations are familiar with its intended uses, and maintain close relationships with the end-users.
Dimension 3: Reliability
Will the product consistently perform within specifications?
Reliability may be closely related to performance. For instance, a product specification may define pa-rameters for up-time, or acceptable failure rates.
Reliability is a major contributor to brand or company image, and is considered a fundamental dimen-sion of quality by most end-users.
Dimension 4: Conformance
Does the product or service conform to the specification?
If it’s developed based on a performance specification, does it perform as specified? If it’s developed based on a design specification, does it possess all of the features defined?
Dimension 5: Durability
How long will the product perform or last, and under what conditions?
Durability is closely related to warranty. Requirements for product durability are often included within procurement contracts and specifications.
For instance, fighter aircraft procured to operate from aircraft carriers include design criteria intended to improve their durability in the demanding naval environment.
Dimension 6: Serviceability
Is the product relatively easy to maintain and repair?
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As end users become more focused on Total Cost of Ownership than simple procurement costs, service-ability (as well as reliability) is becoming an increasingly important dimension of quality and criteria for product selection.
Dimension 7: Aesthetics
The way a product looks is important to end-users. The aesthetic properties of a product contribute to a company’s or brand’s identity. Faults or defects in a product that diminish its aesthetic properties, even those that do not reduce or alter other dimensions of quality, are often cause for rejection.
Dimension 8: Perception
Perception is reality. The product or service may possess adequate or even superior dimensions of qual-ity, but still fall victim to negative customer or public perceptions.
As an example, a high quality product may get the reputation for being low quality based on poor service by installation or field technicians. If the product is not installed or maintained properly, and fails as a result, the failure is often associated with the product’s quality.
Summary
It should be obvious from the discussion above that the individual dimensions of quality are not neces-sarily distinct. Depending on the industry, situation, and type of contract or specification several or all of the above dimensions may be interdependent.
When designing, developing or manufacturing a product (or delivering a service) the interactions be-tween the dimensions of quality must be understood and taken into account.
While these dimensions may not constitute a complete list of relevant dimensions, taking them into con-sideration should provide us with a better understanding of the slippery concept of quality.
1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY
1.6.0.Introduction
A manufacturer stays in business only as long as his product quality satisfies his customers at the price
they are prepared to pay.
Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can therefore be disastrous. But maintaining an ade-
quate standard of quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential cus-
tomer for a new product really wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufac-
ture and sale, to the arrangements for sales service to the customer, effort is being spent on ensuring that
Page 17
the company's product - and reputation - are good. If it is spent wisely, it can result in savings greater
than the increase in costs, and hence in an improvement to profits.
The costs represented by this effort can be a significant proportion of the products sales value (Do you
know what the total is in your Company? In some instances the cost of scrap, rework and inspection
costs alone has been found to be as high as 20% of turn-over) and any manufacturer should be interested
in making sure that he is getting good value for his expenditure. He cannot feel sure unless he has stud -
ied what the costs are, how they are incurred and what they ought to be. If they are higher than they
should be, he must consider ways in which they can be reduced.
1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
Cost of Quality (COQ) in the apparel sector is still a widely understood misconception. The term often
gets associated incorrectly with the price of creating quality merchandise. Actually, it is the other way
round i.e. the amount of money incurred because the product was not manufactured right at the first
time. Thus, the concept of quality costs in the garment industry is a means to quantify the total cost in -
volved in quality-related efforts and deficiencies pertains to a manufactured apparel product.
Although it is not very easy to calculate COQ for any industry, research shows that the costs of poor
quality can range from 15%-40% of business costs (e.g. rework, returns or complaints, reduced service
levels, lost revenue). Most of the apparel units do not know what their quality costs are because they do
not keep records on a daily basis. A large portion of resources is consumed in finding and correcting
mistakes in the merchandise or related processes. Typically, the cost to eliminate a failure in the cus -
tomer phase is five times greater than it is at the merchandise development or manufacturing phase. Ev-
ery time work is redone, the cost of quality increases. The obvious examples in the apparel sector in-
clude:
The reworking of a garment
The retesting of performance of apparel
The rebuilding of a garment machine
The correction of an apparel size specification sheet or change of care label
The reprocessing of garment to improve dimensional stability after wash or the replacement of a
trim to fulfill the requirement of a customer or to meet safety issues.
Page 18
In general, the cost of quality has two main components: the cost of good quality (or the cost of confor-
mance) and the cost of poor quality (or the cost of non-conformance) according to Philip B Crosby in his
book Quality Is Free.
The cost of poor quality affects internal and external costs resulting from failing to meet the require-
ments specified for an apparel product by the garment industry. On the other hand, the cost of good qual-
ity affects the cost for investing in the prevention of nonconformance to requirements and the costs for
appraising the apparel product for conformance to requirements.
1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTSObviously, the most significant improvements will usually be achieved by concentrating effort on the ar-
eas of high cost. For this purpose an analysis of the principal costs is required. Studies have shown that a
fairly typical ratio between the three main groups of costs in a manufacturing company is:
Prevention Costs 5%
Appraisal Costs 30%
Failure Costs - 65%
Failure Costs, because they are typically the largest, will usually give the largest return for the effort in-
volved in reducing them. An effective way of attacking Failure Costs is through a temporary increase in
prevention and appraisal costs.
Appraisal Costs - for example, the cost of production and inspection - might be reduced by more atten-
tion to Value Engineering, which would to some extent increase prevention costs, and a closer control of
the manufacturing process, which would increase appraisal costs.
Appraisal Costs will usually be the next to come under attack. An analysis of all essential quality control
operations will often show opportunities for reducing expenditure without reducing effectiveness. For
example, statistical sampling techniques may be used as a means of control, indicating trends in perfor-
mance and assisting to maintain quality. By improving the control of the process, 100 per cent inspection
may no longer be necessary.
Total costs will be lowest when design staff are aware of the cost implications of their work. Good de-
sign saves cost not only at the design stage itself but throughout production and testing: products become
easier to make "right first time". Good design is needed not only when conceiving the product but also
Page 19
when conceiving systems for production and quality control. After failure and appraisal costs have been
reduced by attention to the prevention aspect, it may be possible to reduce prevention costs as well.
We have seen that the process of reducing failure costs may well involve increasing expenditure on the
design, developing, testing, manufacturing and inspecting processes. However, there must clearly be a
point beyond which it would be uneconomic to incur additional expense. Failure costs might possibly be
eliminated but at considerable, possibly prohibitive, costs in other areas. There is a point at which the ag-
gregate of all costs is at a minimum for the intended selling price. Achieving this minimum cost will in -
volve reviewing product designs, and improving planning processes, facilities and methods.
When the initial attack on costs has been successful, it will be logical to provide a means for analysing
costs and for reporting on them in order to keep a close watch on progress so that, firstly, a worthwhile
reduction in the attacked cost is achieved; and secondly, the expected increase in other costs is not ex-
ceeded.
1.8.CONTROLLING COSTSThe only purpose of reporting costs is to provoke action. Without action the money spent on deriving
and reporting data is wasted.
Action is required whenever there is a significant difference between an actual cost and the budget set
for it. Action is also required to discover the reason for the difference and to eliminate it. If cost reports
are to be effective in provoking this type of action they must be
- presented at suitably short intervals
- presented quickly following the period they represent
- presented in simple, direct, intelligible form
- presented to the people who have the authority and knowledge to act effectively.
It is often effective for reports to be sent both to the person who is expected to take action and also to his
immediate superior.
It is important to remember that the actual costs revealed by control reports are the result of joint action
by quality control staff and by the design or manufacturing functions. Action to correct undesirable
Page 20
trends may therefore have to be taken by all these groups in co-operation. Action by any one group may
well be fruitless.
1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
However, no standard relationship exists among the four parameters of quality costs. One can expect to
reduce the internal and external failure costs by increasing prevention and appraisal costs. But it is also
well understood that, in spite of excellent quality of raw materials and good inspection coverage, the
quality of a garment also depends on workmanship, which may be a prime factor of hindrance in the at-
tainment of quality owing to poor training, poor maintenance of machines, and lack of requisite skill.
1.8.1.Prevention Costs
The costs of all activities specifically designed to prevent poor quality in an apparel product or associ-
ated processes. Examples of prevention cost:
New merchandise review
Quality planning
Supplier capability surveys
Process capability evaluations
Quality improvement team meetings
Quality improvement projects
Quality education and training
Minimum neck stretch must meet the required measurements specified. Sample complies measures
22".Monofilament thread is not permitted for use in children's clothing. For all the paints and other coat-
ings used on hardware including buttons, the lead content must be tested for permissible limit. All but -
tons must be machine lock stitched and withstand pull test.
1.8.2.Appraisal Costs:
The costs associated with measuring, evaluating apparel merchandise or auditing related production fac-
tory to assure conformance to quality standards and performance requirements.
Examples of Appraisal Costs
Page 21
Incoming and source inspection/test of purchased material.
In-process and final inspection/test.
Product. Process or service audits.
Calibration of measuring and test equipment.
Associated supplies and materials.
1.8.3.Internal Failure Costs
Failure costs that arise before an apparel company supplies its product to the customer i.e. prior to deliv-
ery or shipment of the merchandise. These are due to deficiencies discovered before delivery and are as-
sociated with the failure (non-conformance) to meet the needs of customers. If internal quality failures of
defective merchandise are identified before shipping then optimistically there may be no external failure
costs.
Examples of Internal Failure Costs
Scrap
Rework
Re-inspection
Re-testing
Material review
Downgrading
Returning garment for re-work
1.8.4.External Failure Costs
These are typically due to errors found by customers. Failure costs that arise after a garment unit sup-
plies the product to the customer, such as cost of returned merchandise, cost of quality claims, cost of
transportation for the defective merchandise, personnel costs associated with these activities. These costs
can be much higher than internal failure costs, because the stakes are much higher.
Examples of External Failure Costs
Processing customer complaints
Customer returns
Product recalls
Page 22
Chapter#2
FABRIC INSPECTION SYS-TEMS
Page 23
2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTIONThe quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the
most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. They inspect 20%
of the rolls that they receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid
fabric related quality problems before it is put into production.
2.2. Four- Point SystemIt was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers. Widely
adopted and used in knitted fabric.
Amount to select
Inspect at least 20% of the total rolls of the shipment.
Selection of rolls
Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected, then choose the additional
roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.
Defect Classification (Four- Point System)
Size Defect Penalty .
3 inches or less 1 Point
Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 Points
Over 6 inches, but less than 9 3 Points
Over 9 inches 4 Points
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No
penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final gar-
ment to be considered a second.)
Major Defects
Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn varia-
tion, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
Page 24
Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear,
or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation
40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate
# of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100
Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure
Determine the amount to inspect 20%).
Select the rolls to inspect.
Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the
strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any shading prob-
lems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.
Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric
must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to
turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
Record any defects.
The weaving division functions under the principles of the internationally acclaimed American 4 point
system to reduce wastage and ensure quality. Under this system, fabric inspection and grading is carried
out as per ASTM standard.
2.1.0Advantages
4 point system has not width limitation.
Worker can easily understand it.
Page 25
Quality Control Inspection Report
Fabric Supplier:_______________ Total Rolls Recv'd:______________
Style #:_______________ Points Per 100 yds:______________
Width Length Color Shade Penalty Points Point
Roll Color Ordered A c t u a l On Dye Def. Fab. Total Per Rej
# Min. Max Roll Actual Yards Yards Hole Soil Def. Points100 yd (x)
2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEMThe ten point system for piece goods evaluation was approved by the Textile distributors institute and
the National Federation of Textile, in 1955. The earliest inspection system and is designed to identify de-
fects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect. The system assigns penalty points to
each defect depending on its length and whether it is in the warp (ends) or weft (fill) direction. While
sounding simple, it can get quite complicated in practical use. The following table shows the assignment
of penalty points.
Warp defects Points Weft defects Points
Under 1” 1 Under 1” 1
1” - 5” 3 1” - 5” 3
5” - 10” 5 5” – ½ width of goods 5
10”- 36” 10 Over ½ the width of goods 10
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The grading is done as a piece or roll of fabric is considered good if the total penalty points, assessed to
that piece or roll, do not exceed the length of fabric on it. If the points exceed the length, then the roll
considered seconds, and may be rejected.
For example if we had a roll of 50 yards of fabric and if we found defects totaling to less than 50 points,
then the roll was considered good. If there were more than 50 penalty points, then the piece was consid-
ered seconds.
There have been some questions raised about the fairness of the system based on the argument that this
system does not allow for the inspection of various widths. If one will study the system closely, it can be
seen that apparent inequity of the system is just that, apparent although stringent.
This method is still used by some manufacturers.
2.3.0.Advantages
Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric.
In it length of fabric is used and along the length of warp and weft defects are identified.
2.3.1.Disadvantage
It has width limitation.
It is difficult in practical use
2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEMIt was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divided defects into major and mi-
nor types .The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second quality. The
minor defect was one may or may not have cause garment to second, depending on its location in the end
use item.
PENALTY POINT ASSIGNMENT OF GRANITEVILLE’78
Defect Length Penalty Points
9” 1
9”-18” 2
18”-27” 3
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27”-36 4
The principle was established in garment cutting piece, which the short length defects (less than 9”) will
normally be removed. The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9”) and put
less weight on 1-10” defects such as slubs .The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot in -
stead of normal 3-foot viewing distance. The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total
penalty score.
Disadvantages:
As this system is used on cutting pieces according to my point of view it also increase the cost of
production. We should control problems before cutting.
2.5. DALLAS SYSTEM There is also a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for knits.
According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the garment would then be
termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a second as "more then one defect per ten linear
yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to
have six defects.
Disadvantage
It increases the cost of production as defect is located after the garment is finished.
2.6. CONCLUSION4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry.4 point system is best as compared to
other systems since it is easy to teach and learn.4 point system usually used for knitted fabric and 10
point system is used for woven fabric.Other systems are like Graniteville’78 and Dallas system has
some problems such as viewing distance and they affect the cost of production as defects are located af-
ter cutting and on finish garments.
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Chapter #3
SPREADING AND CUTTING QUAL-ITY CONTROL SYSTEM
Page 29
3.1. QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADINGThe inspector should receive a swatch of lab-dip approval to evaluate the correctness of GSM, Construc-
tion and shade of fabric. Ensure that the lot received is for the concerned P.O and style.Lab report for
shading, color fastness, crocking, and all other tests (spectrophotometer, delta-e, shrinkage, torque effect,
pilling and performance) should be received. Color continuity should be established by making a color
continuity swatch card. Shade blankets should be made to evaluate shading after washing. Then lots
should be segregated according to dye lot #‘s.Lots should be segregated according to width of fabric (ac-
cording to marker width) Fabric inspection report should be received. If the spreading process is manual
and without under-bed blowers, the fabric (knit) should be relaxed at least 6 hrs before spreading. If auto
spreading is used, ensure that the under-bed blowers are functioning properly.
3.2. SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONSSpreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors:
Ply alignment: length and width
Ply tension: stretch, slack edge
Grain alignment: bowing
Splicing: waste and precision;
Damage placement: economy of placement;
Surface direction; and
Static electricity
3.3. Fabric Spreading ObjectiveThe objective of spreading is
To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the planning process.
In the color required
Correctly aligned as to length and width
At correct tension
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3.4. THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESSSpreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:
Alignments of the plies
Every ply must comprise at least the length and width of the marker. In addition it should have minimum
possible extra outside those measurements. Because nature of fabric is such that fabric width varies piece
to piece
Elimination of the Fabric Flaws
Fabric flaws may be identifies by the supplier or by the spreader. It must be eliminated by different
methods.
Correct Ply direction
For fabrics designated both one way only and one way either way, the spread should contain plies whose
surface direction is compatible with the pattern facing of the marker.
Correct Ply Tension
If the plies are spread with too slack a tension they will lie in ridges with irregular fullness. If plies are
spread in a stretched state they will maintain their tension while held in a lay, but will contract after cut-
ting or during sewing, thus shrinking the garment parts to a smaller size than the pattern pieces. Thus
tension in the plies should be optimum.
Elimination of Static Electricity
In spreading plies of fabric containing man made fibers, friction may increase the static electricity in the
fabric. The spreader will experience in laying a ply neatly on top of the others due to either attraction or
repulsion of those plies according to how they are charged.
Method to reduce static electricity:
- Change the method of threading the fabric through the guide bars
- increase the humidity of the atmosphere in the cutting room
- arrange to earth the lay
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
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A layer of glazed paper, laid glazed upside down, is normally placed at the bottom of the spread. This
helps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies on the material in the spread when the base plate of a straight
knife passes underneath. Also gives stability to the lay if it is to be moved on a table.
Avoidance of Fusion during cutting
Anti-fusion paper may be used in the same way as interleaving. It contains a lubricant which lubricates
the knife blade as it passes through the spread.
3.5. Type of SpreadsThere are two types of spreads with respect to alignment:
Straight Edge
A straight-edge spread has all the ply edges on one side of the spread superposed perfectly in a vertical
line. The ply edge alignment on the other side of the spread may not be superimposed in a vertical to the
table. This will depend on the variations in cloth width among the bolts of fabrics used in the spread. If
there is no width variation, both sides will form vertical lines to the table surface in a straightedge
spread. If the fabric width varies from bolt to bolt, or within each bolt, only one side of a straight-edge
spread will have vertical superposing. The greater the width variation, the greater the unevenness in the
no straight edge. This is also true for both sides of a straight-edge spread, which has poor side edge
alignment on the supposed straight-edge side.
Centered Edge
A centered spread is one in which the plies are spread with their longitudinal centers superposed in a ver-
tical line. In a perfect quality spread of this type both side edges of every ply are equidistant from the
lengthwise center of the spread. Width alignment refers to the superposing precision at the sides of the
spread. The greater the variation in width or length alignment, the greater the waste in precision cutting
since the ends and sides must be trimmed to the narrowest and shortest plies. Precise cutting of a spread
of superposed plies demands that each cut side of a components block be a vertical line to the table sur -
face.
3.6. General Fabric Spreading SystemBefore spreading some parameters must be keep in mind.
Mark the Splice Zone on the Spreading Table
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Fabrics usually contain many defects. The defects in pieces which are cut into patterns are highly unde-
sirable. To avoid this, the spreading operator must identify and cut out defects as the material is being
spread on the table. However, if the material is cut in the mid of the pattern, it will lead to more material
wastage.
To avoid this, zones are defined called splice zones, where cuts can be made by the spreading operator.
Also it is also required to decide about the overlap of the next section of cloth. Thus there are two lines
in a splice zone: One line shows how far the previous piece of cloth must extend and one line shows
where the next piece of the cloth must begin, i.e. how much overlap is needed.
Thus when a flaw is encountered, the spreader is stopped, the operator moves back to the nearest splice
point, cuts the flaw out and moves the spreader back to overlap the cut line with the required overlap.
Apart from cutting out defects, splices are also used to achieve proper shade matching when starting a
new roll of cloth.
Thus the splicing points are marked by means of a chalk or paint.
Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine fabrics are being
spread
Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers
Use lubricated paper for separating layers
To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics).To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics.
Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.
How to spread
Pull the fabric to far end position
Position the fabric at the far end (with our without weight or pins)
Align the ply (width on one side)
Cut the ply after each lay
Repeat this process from until the entire roll is spread.
Check ply count
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Repeat a and then b to g till the decided number of ply are spread
Mark the remnants of the rolls with length in meters and roll number and stack separately at the
given place.
3.7. ConclusionSpreading is the main operation where quality can be control before cutting.Spreading effects the shape
of cut parts so lay must be in standard form before cutting.
3.8. CUTTING
Cutting is irreversible process in garments cutting, so it must be done carefully.
There are two types of cutting.
Manual
Automatic
3.8.1Cutting (Manual)
Ensure small parts are cut first starting from one end of the folding. Ensure marker position is not dis-
turbed in the cutting process. Ensure shapes are accurate after cutting (this could be achieved if correct
cutting mode is followed).Ensure miss-cuts, Ragged cuts, Narrow goods are not resulted in cut compo-
nents. Ensure cut-marks and notch marks are accurate. Shaping should be done immediately if neces-
sary.
3.8.2. Cutting (Auto)
Ensure that the vacuum suction device functions properly. Ensure that correct gauge of polythene is
used, and also ensure that the polythene is not damaged. Ensure that no foreign matter is on the folding.
Ensure that the laser indicator is correctly focused.
Ensure that the blades are timely and properly sharpened (if straight knives are used).
If laser cutting is used ensure that the laser device functions correctly. Ensure that the folding moves
smoothly on the table without any obstacle. Ensure that the cut parts and off cuts are removed from table
immediately during the process. Ensure that no ragged cutting or miss cutting takes place. Shaping
should be done immediately if necessary.
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3.9. Cut components inspection
Check quantity in bundles for correctness (randomly all sizes) (should be in accordance to cutting
ticket/job card) randomly select 20% of the cuts covering all sizes for inspection. Check for correctness
of specs by checking the first part, middle part, last part of all the bundles selected for inspection.(on
hard approved pattern).The total 20% selected should undergo fabric quality and cutting quality (shade,
specs, etc) inspection on all components. This inspection should be done without disturbing the sequence
of the bundles. Any defective component should be replaced immediately with the same shade, and com-
ponent cut from the balance fabric of the same lot. If any replacement cannot be found, all parts/compo-
nents in the bundles at the same sequence count, should be taken out and job card amended accordingly.
The components should be discarded as rejects according to the above.
3.10. Cutting Room Functions
Apply the following principles of marker-making:
Proper pattern placement
Attention to order requirements
Cost effective fabric yield
Accuracy and neatness
Identify the characteristics of lay-up fabric.
Avoid waste of lay-up fabric.
Use various spreading techniques and equipment.
Follow a production order form.
Operate industrial fabric cutting machines and related equipment.
Maintain industrial fabric cutting machines and related equipment.
3.11. Requirements of Pattern Cutting
The following items are required to enable the cutter to create clear, correct and accurate patterns.
Good quality white pattern paper.
Large sheets or roll of cardboard (for basic blocks)
A Perspex square with 45° and 90° markings as well as centime measurement.
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A 15cm plastic ruler (useful for marking seam allowances)
A pair of sharp paper cutting scissors
A good-quality tape measure (with metal ends)
Clear sticky tape
A Soft rubber
3 H or 4H pencils (no softer) and pencil sharpener
Dress marker’s pins
Fine felt-tip pens or hard crayons (to outline ports of draft)
A meter stick
A tracing wheel would also be found useful, as would a dressmaker’s stamped
Although French curves are an easy method of drawing curved lines it is far better to achieve the
skill of freehand drawing, which comes with practices.
Consumption Calculations
3.16. Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting
Areas near cutting tables should be clearly marked, and their access restricted should be restricted by
barriers.On motorized and automatic cutting tables the warning signals should be fitted to indicate when
blade is in motion.The machine ideally should be fitted with automatic adjustable guards to fully cover
the exposed part of the cutting blade. The five finger chain blades should be available to all the operator
working on knife and should be worn on all times during cutting work.There should be a regular check
on the condition of the light, guard, and table fittings.Only fully trained operatives should be allowed to
work on knives.The operators' standards should be checked against the published operating practice on a
regular basis and should be corrected wherever a deviation is found. There should be an effective clean-
ing system in operation that prevents build up of fluff, fly and off cuts, thus reducing fire, health & trip
hazards.
3.13.Numbering
Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #, color, P.O No., Serial
No., No. Of garments cut, sizes.All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre
Page 36
determined location.Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping
in mind the kind of fabric being cut.
3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production
After the completion of the cutting process the spread is first sorted out in respect of different sizes and
the components of the pattern and than these sorted out components are handled according to the produc-
tion policy and the needs of the plant. The manner of folding or superposing the plies in the bundles
should be such that there is (a) minimum or no creasing, and (b) minimum or no disarraying of the cut
alignment. Any deviation from these two principles increases the pick-up and positioning time for the
sewing operator. If the bundle must be tied securely because of movement before the operator gets the
bundle care should be taken not to use card or other ties which may mar the surface or edge of the cut
plies. Boxes are an excellent means for bundling and transporting cut sections without the necessity of
bundle tying. This saves tying and untying time.
3.15. Panel Checking System
The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and checking for accu-
racy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements & tolerance. Mark the pattern
on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/- tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked.
Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. It becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within
or out of tolerance. This inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern maker before usage.
Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked with inspection status. When a bundle is
checked, they shall be marked with green as “c”.When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked
with green as “I”. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects.
3.16. Conventional cut parts inspection System
In conventional cutting system cut parts inspection is one according to military standard system. There are two types of inspection first one is 100% inspection which is carried out for less then 200 pieces & other is 20% inspection which is carried out for that lot which has more than 200 pieces.
3.17. Conclusion
Cutting is irreversible process so it must be according to given parameteres.Cutting affects the overall
Quality of a finished garment. Cut parts inspection helps in improving the quality product for go ahead
in stitching. During cut parts inspection shade, shape and other faults are removed and on the basis of re-
jected pieces report a lot is hold or go ahead for stitching, so by controlling quality at this stage is fruitful
in spite of we stitch a garment and after stitching that garment is rejected due to flaws.
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Page 38
Chapter #4
STITCHING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS
Page 39
4.1. STITCHINGIt is process of interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
Generally used quality control systems are here under.
4.2. 7-0 systemIn lines 7-0 system is applied by Quality Control Inspector. The machine output undergoes 2.5 Observed
Quality Level. Not a single piece is allowed to reach the Finishing Section unless audited by the Audi -
tor.56 pieces are checked in eight hour shift if there are no defects and if there are defects then more
pieces are checked.
Quality controllers and Supervisors regularly meet and assist each other to achieve the desired quality
level. Quality efficiency of each Operator, each Line and each Supervisor are recorded in computer and
their performances frequently monitored. The factory has in House Washing Plant; well enough for
Stone Washing, enzyme wash and Bleach Wash. Production capacity of the Washing Unit is perfectly
matched with the Production Capacity of the Machines.
In the Finishing Section, Rotary Type of Quality Check or two-tier Checks, is Applied depending upon
the style. In any case, No Piece is allowed to go inside the polybag unless audited by the Final Auditor.
4.2.1. Advantages
Quality is improved
Operator hourly capacity is checked
Machine capacity is hourly checked
Hourly efficiency is checked
Quality assurance is improved
Quick feedback
4.2.2.Disadvantages
It is not properly implement
Training is hard
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Measurement of garment is not checked hourly
Fabric faults are not checked
4.3. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM
Aim
To build in quality at the point and to quickly identify problem areas in order to reduce defects rework-
ing and to improve factory efficiency.
Process
The traffic signal system is based on three lights red, amber and green. The lights are used to symbolize
the quality status at the operation and make supervisor aware of where problems are occurring and give
the in line controllers an idea where they have to spend more time.
Green Good
Amber Isolated defects found
Red Recurring defects or major defects found
In line QC has to check a minimum of 10 piece each visit to the work station. The In line controller will
monitor the inspection and record it. The traffic lights must work in sequence unless the frequency of de-
fects it too high.
If the inspector finds.
Defects Color Code Frequency of QC visit
Signatures Action
None Green Once pr hour QC None
One Amber Twice per hour QC/Supervisor Inform super-visor
Two Red Twice per hour QC/QC Exce./Line supervisor/Manager
Operator shown correct method from supervisor me-chanic called.
Two or more 2 Red Operation stop
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Sequence of Colors
The In line inspector will then determine where their time is most needed. After the inspector has com-
pleted all checks in line then they must walk to the front of the line check who is on amber and red lights
and then return to them. This will ensure that the correct number of checks are done.
1st check
Color Time 2nd check
Color Time 3rd check
Color Time 4th check
Color
0 fault
Green 1 hour
None Green Etc..
1 fault
Amber 2 hour
None Green 1 hour
Etc..
1 Amber 2 hour
1 Red 2 hour
None Amber 2 hour None Green
1 Amber 2 hour
1 Red 2 hour
1 Red and Stop
If 2 red you have to stop and in-form the line manager and QC Exec and then follow sequence as nor-mal
2 or more red
Red 2 hour
None Amber 2 hour
Etc
2 or more red
Red 2 hour
1 or more
Red and stop
Etc..
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4.3.1. Advantages
Quality is build at needle point
Fault is quickly identified
Defects reworking reduce
Improve overall efficiency
4.3.2. Disadvatages
It is costly as we install it
Not easy for workers to understand
4.4. Conventional Quality Control SystemIn this system in line quality inspector check the garments after each hour the output of a operator ac-cording to military standard system and faults are identified. With the help of standard card inspector take the sample and check that according to requirement.
4.5. Random Inspection System:This system is old system and used at local level in small factories. QC person check the output of a op-erator by taking random ly sample size and check the quality parameters.
4.6. GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHING DE-PARTMENT
Feeding/Loading System
In the process of feeding/Loading the feeder/loader should ensure that the sequences in the bundles are
not disturbed.
At the time of feeding/Loading any conspicuous defect should be discarded or replaced with part of
same shade.
The feeding/Loading quantity should be counted and ensured that it is correct according to quantity men-
tioned in the bundle.
On the spot defect recovery system
All these four systems will be working together at the time of implementation.
All machines will be having green flags at starting time.
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The rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector should randomly select seven pieces. From each bundle, of all
operations.
The 7 pieces should pass at (0) zero defects. If a single defect is found the total bundle fails (Re-
jected).
Then the green flag is replaced by a yellow flag. The first part of the 5 part ticket is issued to the
machine operator at this time.
Operator who stitched the bundle will have to inspect the full bundle for faults in his operation,
and rectify defects immediately (on the spot) up to specification or discard the defective pieces,
what ever appropriate.
If the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector identifies the same mistake for the second time (in same op-
erator) the yellow flag is replaced by red flag and second part of the 5 part ticket is issued. The
operator has to fallow the same procedure as before. Now the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector will
do a follow up of inspections of 3 consecutive bundles of the same operator, by issuing the bal-
ance 3 follow up tickets (one at a time).If the 3 follow up inspection results passes, the green flag
is re-installed. If any of the follow up inspection results fails, the 3 follow up re-starts from that
point.
The rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector should inspect critical operations every hour. Other operations
could be confined to an inspection of once, twice or thrice according to the criticality of occur-
rence of faults.
Inspection of every 5th piece of operation by the operator
The operator should inspect his part of operation, on every 5th piece to determine any faulty stitching.
End –line Inspection (100% inside-out)
All pieces that complete all operation should be checked inside out by end line inspectors.
4.7. ConclusionOver all according to our observation 7-0 system is most suitable to our industry because it is easy to im-
plement and results are better than other systems .Traffic signal system is also a good system but it is
costly and other system s have there own importance but regarding to quality 7-0 system is most effec-
tive as quick feedback is get by this system efficiency and quality is improved by this system.
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Chapter#5
SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS
Page 45
5.1. Cutting
The cut bundles received from cutting department are inspected 100% for visual defects such as the fol-lowing:
1. Knitting defects such as holes, barre, needle line, yarn shade variation, repeat difference etc.2. Processing defects such as water marks component shading, compactor shoe marks, dead cotton
slubs etc.3. Mis-cuts, improper notching etc.4. The front and back panel are matched as per the requirement of the buyer.5. In case of design/repeats of parts same should match.6. Sampling Quantity:
Visual Inspection 100%
Measurement Check 2 out of 10 pieces
In case of any variation in the above parameters, the complete bundle is returned to the cutting depart-ment for correction/replacement.
Acceptance Standard:
Bundle Size Defects allowed
Up to 5 Pieces 0
6 to 10 pieces 1
11 to 15 pieces 2
16 to 20 pieces 3
More than 20 pieces 4
Where it is possible to change the defective part by replacement, the quality inspector checks the ex-changed part for shade variation, and measurement and ensure to put the same number that of the dam-aged part.
Reporting defects Rate:Defects rate in cutting= The total defects found / No of bundle checked
5.2.Sewing
The QA follows the parameters stated below1. Fabric pattern, design, weight etc.2. Stitch details
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3. Placement accessories and trims4. Folding and packing details
5.2.1.Potential Major faults 1. Any surface hole or weakening defects which could develop into a hole2. Visible flaws3. Shading within the garment4. Dye spots, misprints5. Cuts and tears6. Non matching checks and stripes7. Bowing of fabric, if it effects the appearance of the garment8. Spots or stains9. Deviation in measurement specs more than the given tolerance10. Twisted or puckered seam11. Broken stitches or open seam12. Seams not bar tacked unless covered by another seam13. Irregular or uneven top stitching and contrast stitching14. Run-off in top stitching in visible areas.15. Incorrect stitch counts16. Incorrect seam allowance17. Twisted hems and uneven hems18. Missing bar tack19. Uneven fronts, sleeves and other symmetric components20. Poorly done and objectionable mending.21. Broken/skip stitch
5.2.2.Potential minor faults.1. Removable stains2. All other temporary defects other than listed above.
In-line quality auditThe quality inspector conducts in-line quality audit as per the steps mentioned below:
1. Pick up one bundle after any operation at random2. Check the quality level of that particular operation3. Repeat this procedure for minimum of 3 times of the same operation within a day
In case some type of rejection is encountered repeatedly, production is held temporarily until corrective action is ensured by line supervisor.
End of the line qualityQuality inspector station at the end of all sewing operation and check the following:
1. Stitch formation2. Component shade variation3. Sewing alterations and variations
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4. Damaged parts5. Size label jumping6. Missed sewing operation7. Broad measurement specification
Pilot run
Depending on the size of the order, pilot run is carried out. All the pieces are visually inspected and mea-surement for any quality defects. The sample sizes for pilots runs are as follows.
Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off
Up to 3000pcs 25pcs
3001 to 6000pcs 40pcs
6001 to 9000pcs 60pcs
9001 to 15000pcs 75pcs
Above 15,000pcs 100pcs
Any major deviation in measurement or style is incorporated in the pattern/sewing line before the bulk production start.
5.3. Embroidery
The QA ensure quality through sample embroidery sew-out. Sample of a garment along with placement details is made before going in to mass production, parameters are strictly followed to ensure quality em-broidery
Parameters
1. Right shade of threads 2. Positioning of the embroidery3. Coverage, stitch density is as per the order4. Embroidery alignment5. Fraying of thread6. Clarity in the design as per original7. Right tension of the threads8. Holes due to needle9. Skip/missed threads10. Shade variation within the box of thread
Page 48
The pilot quantity of strike off.
Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off
Up to 2000pcs 15pcs
2001 to 5000pcs 25pcs
5001 to 8000pcs 35pcs
8001 to 15000pcs 50pcs
Above 15000pcs 60pcs
The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk production.
5.4. Printing
The QA ensures that an approved strike off of the print with the shade card giving the pantone references number. Is available with the Department. Sample of the garment along with the placement details must be available. Before starting bulk production, pilot strike off of using the actual garment /panel is taken and inspected for the following quality.
Parameters
1. Right shade of colors2. Positioning of the print3. Proper registration4. Print alignment5. Clarity in the design as per original6. Properly cured surface7. Stains8. Skew ness of print
The pilot quantity of strike off .
Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off
Up to 2000pcs 15pcs
2001 to 5000pcs 25pcs
5001 to 8000pcs 35pcs
8001 to 15000pcs 50pcs
Above 15000pcs 60pcs
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The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk production.
5.5. Finishing and packaging
The purpose of pressing a knit/woven fabric product is to eliminate the wrinkle and yield original feel-ing. The following points are ensure by the QA inspector while ironing is in process:
1. Knit product must be iron finished at proper temp2. The system press must have Teflon shoe and must be cleaned periodically3. Areas such as collar, embroidery, printing, etc. should not be hard ironed.4. No small wrinkles, defective luster and iron-pressed marks should be observed on the surface5. The size of the iron finished product must conform to order specification6. The garment must be allowed to be cooled for at least 1 hour before putting in poly bag.7. The ironing table top cloth must have marking for horizontal and vertical markings matching the
outline size of the garment.
Packing is an important aspect of a given garment. The following aspects are checked by the inspector:
1. The price ticket, hangtag, bar code stickers.
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2. The right size of the poly bag should be used for the garment3. After the garment is inserted in the poly bag, it should not be sloppy or too tight.4. The ratio of pre-packs and qualities per carton must be checked randomly.5. The garment through the poly bag must be visually symmetric6. All carton markings must conform to the order requirement
5.6. Final Audit
The purpose of the final, audit is to establish the quality level of the final pieces goods before it leaves the factory.
The QA manager has to conduct a final quality audit of the packed goods and this has to done at two stages:
1. Once 50% of the shipment is packed2. Other when 100% of the shipment is packed
In case there is any quality problem at the above stages, the packed goods have to be screened for the specific quality aspectsOnce corrected the above procedure has to be repeated again.
5.7. Clipping InspectionClipping (Trimming of Thread) should be inspected for cut stitches and cut holes. This is a 100% inspec-
tion.
5.8. Final inspectionGarment inspection is a vital process of quality control for measuring the quality of the product, compar-
ing with requirements and acting on the variations.
There are three types of final inspection
Step wise inspection
Batch inspection
100% inspection
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Stepwise inspection
Stepwise inspection has two types one is final inspection and other is super final inspection. In final in-
spection we sort out sewing faults and in super final inspection we check specs, shade and shape of the
garment.
Disadvantage
It is time consuming
Man power increased
Batch inspection
In it a team of final inspectors check the pieces and make batch for example a batch is consist of 100
garments from those batches randomly some batches are inspect by auditor and pass, fail report is made
on type of fault and occurrence of faults.
100% Inspection
Once the garment has been fully assembled, then it must pass though a final inspection. In the final in-
spection, 100% of the garments manufactured are checked for defects. Any defects found will be re-
turned to the original operator for repair. Inspectors are expected to not only check for defects, but are
also required to cut threads as they see necessary.
Each inspector should have his/her own pair of scissors. These should always be used to cut long
threads. There is no tolerance for repairs caused by pulling threads instead of cutting them.
Each inspector should be given a bag of her own number. The numbers are to be inserted into
one of the front pockets. This way they are easy to locate incase the identity of the inspector in
needed. There is no tolerance for an inspector who refuses to put numbers into the pockets.
Inspectors are expected to follow inspection procedures to ensure that the entire garment has
been inspected.
Inspection Procedures: Garments should enter the End of Line inspection process inside out.
Begin with the front of the garment and work down and to the back. Establishing a routine is the
most effective way to ensure that no operations are missed.
All long threads should be cut as seams are being checked for defects.
The garment should then be turned outside in.
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All exterior threads should be clipped.
Pockets, tacks, and any fabric defects should be checked. Any defects found should be marked
with red tape and set aside for repairs.
Check the zipper to ensure that it zips and unzips freely.
Check the buttons and button holes. Make sure they line up and are functional.
Inseam and waist should be measured. Check measurement results against the label to be sure
that the garment is the same size as stated on the label.
After inspection and thread trimming, the inspector’s number should be placed in the pocket and
the garment should be neatly stacked.
The stacks should be picked up by the End of Line auditor. He will then check the garments
once more. (This is a more general check to ensure that inspectors are effectively inspecting
their garments.)
Once this last audit is done, the garments can be stacked and taken to pressing.
Inspection is Conducted to evaluate the First passed yield (FPY).That is the first time past percentage, on
an hourly basis.
End Line Audit Report2.5 AQL Inspect 7 Reject on 1 Defect
Line Hour Accept Reject Reason Minor Defects Improvements
Auditor Name:________________________________________
Date:____________________
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The defects identified are segregated into 3 main categories.
Rafu
Stain
Alteration
A) Rafu
Rafu is minor fabric faults which are mend-able.
Very Important Factors
Darning is not accepted on body.
Operational darning could be accepted. If it is not conspicuous.
Any fabric fault mended by Knitting needle (Knitted) and not prominent to the naked eye could
be accepted.
Any defect that is not according to the above factors should be discarded as totally rejected items.
B) Stain
If any dust spot, oil spot or any other stain spot could be removed by either stain removers or
light washing, without, effecting the color, appearance, hand feel, and specs could be ac-
cepted.
Any slight patch dispersed as a result of the above process, should be discarded as a reject.
C) Alteration
If any sewing defect could be recovered by re-work, without effecting seams or body quality
standards, it is acceptable.
If the reworking results are miss-shape, specs variation, miss alignment, or any other defect the
product should be discarded as a reject.
Any uncut thread or loose thread should be taken care of before OK garments passed to the fold-
ing stage.
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5.9. Pressing Inspection Pressing tables should be marked with length and breadth of all sizes of garments according to Buyers
specifications.
Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate.
Correctness of shape of Neck/Shoulder/Sleeve/ Side Seam/ bottom hem in uppers; and shape of-
waist/ Hip/ Side Seam/ inseam/ leg opening in bottoms.
No shiny marks /crease marks on seams
No Excessive moisture by steam.
No Color fading
No Dust marks/Stain marks/oil marks
Pressing as required.
5.10. SPECS INSPECTION100% of garments should undergo critical specs inspection. (For Tops-Body length, Chest, Sleeve
length, neck, arm hole and, shoulder) (For Bottoms-Side seam, inseam, hip,waist and leg opening) .All
other measurements as defined by the particular buyer should undergo random specs inspection at least
10% of the total quantity. Any garment that is not within the specified tolerance limit should be dis-
carded as a rejected item..Please note this does not mean that all garments should be within tolerance.
This tolerance limit is allowed to accommodate any human error which rearly occurs.
5.11. Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack)The inspector should ensure that there is no dust, fluff or loose thread in the presentation of the gar-
ments. Appearance should be attractive and eye catching. The folding should be even and balanced, and
according to the specifications of folding. The correctness in the position of label, accurate shape after
folding, not looking miss-aligned after folding and all other factors pertaining to folding should be given
more emphasis. Correctness of labels, stickers, Tags or any other attachments and aids of attachments
should be ensured. Correctness of poly bags, measurements of poly bags, marks and numbers an poly
bags, sealing of poly bags, poly bag mouth, should be ensured. Correctness of size and sticker or any
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other accessories on poly bag should be ensured. Correctness of Hangers and sizes, size of hanger qual-
ity of hangers, printing, emboss, carvings, alignment, packing performance should be ensured.
5.12. Packing inspection
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled
and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is
seen from outside the cartoon easily. The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed
in the dispatch department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for
shipment.
There is no margin for any packing error. Packing should be 100% correct. Correctness of Quantity in
CTNS should be ensured. Correctness of sizes in CTNS should be ensured. Correctness of pre-packs, ra-
tio packs, catalogue packs, mix packs (if allowed) should be ensured. Correctness of style and P.O
should be ensured. Correctness of color and size assortments should be ensured.CTNS size, CTN marks
and numbers, CTN quality, packing capability, No of plies, shade, sealing ability, hanger pack capabil-
ity...etc. should be ensured. Ensure that security slip (white) is fixed while sealing CTNS with inspector
signature, Id number, unit number, and P.O. code Ensure that CTN tape/adhesive tape/Gum tape sealing
tape adheres properly to CTN without bubbling or detaching. Ensure that CTNS look attractive, clean,
without bulking, un-smashed, without damage, without excessive CTN tape protruding at the corners
and stackable without disturbance. Ensure the correction of CTN stickers (ASN, DTS, OCR, ETC) and
undamaged stickers are fixed.
5.13. ConclusionBy final inspection of garments at all stages like clipping, final inspection, pressing and packing we
have full confidence on our shipment.
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References
From Websites:
http://www.textileguides.com/garments-pattern
http://www.cutplan.com/nestplan-nesting-parts-material.htm
http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2007_12_01_archive.html
http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/
http://www.wmolaw.com/files/The_8_Dimensions_of_Quality.pdf
http://lssacademy.com/2008/05/28/8-dimensions-of-quality/
http://www.apparelkey.com/ApparelKey/Document/Cate2/2.3.6.4/casestudy3-
prabirjana.pdf?TABLENAME=Cate2&PARENTNODE=2.3.6.4
http://www.accordiausa.com/cat-24-1- 17/Product_Quality_Inspection.htm
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http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article
http://articles.textileclass.com/garments-manufacturing-sequence/
http://www.tpingzhi.asp.htm
From Persons:
Mr.Sohail from fabric dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Subasinghe from cutting dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Awais from PPC dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Ali from Stitching dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Rasika from quality control dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisal-
abad.
Mr.Sajid/Mr.Qammer from pressing & folding dept. Chenab Textile
Mill Faisalabad.
From Books
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