QUALITY and its Concept

7/29/2019 QUALITY and its Concept

1/63

Session 1,2

What is quality

Quality related terms & DefinitionsRef: Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj:Chapter 1

Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph ;Chapter 2


2/63

How do we define quality?


3/63

Traditional definitions of Quality

Fitness for use- Joseph Juran

Conformance to requirements- Philip

Crosby


4/63

Quality defined "Quality" is defined as that combination of

design and properties of materials of a productwhich are needed for the intended end use and

level of the market in which it is sold.

"Requisite Quality" is defined as the design andcomposition of a product, which has been

thoroughly proved by adequate development

work, in order to establish its reliability under theconditions to which it will be subjected in use

and to avoid producing too high a grade of

product for the intended market.


5/63

Quality Defined A holistic definition of Quality can be

Quality is a dynamic state associated withproducts, services, people ,processes andenvironments that meets or exceeds expectations(Goetsch and Davis 1994)

Can have a (Garvin) Product perspective,

Producer's perspective or

Consumer's perspective

Value perspective


6/63

product

In this view, quality is determined as a precise

and measurable variable and difference in

quality reflects differences in the quality of

some ingredient or attitude seen to be

possessed by a product. In this view quality

and quantity has direct relation


7/63

customer

In this view, definitions are based on the

premise that solely the user determined

quality. Individual customers are assumed to

have different wants or needs and goods

that best satisfy the preference are the one

they regarded, as having the highest

perceived quality. Quality is fitness for usethat this view also reflects a highly

personalized and subjective view


8/63

manufacturing This view focuses on manufacturing and engineering practices. It

emphasis

conformance to specified requirements. The higher the degree that

meets specified

requirements the higher the quality. This view seeks to ensure that

the deviations from

standards set design specifications are minimized.

To achieve the quality of conformance means improving in the design

of the

Equipment

MaterialsSupervision

Control

Training


9/63

Value based

The base for this view is physiological

understanding of the meaning of value.

Consequently, customers have been

conditioned to accept that the quality of

product is determined by the price. There fore

price and quality have a direct relation ship


10/63

Dimensions of quality

Positioning of a company based on Garvin`sModel

1. Performance

2. Features

3. Reliability

4. Conformance

5. Durability

6. Serviceability7. Aesthetics

8. Perceived quality


11/63

Dimensions of quality1.Performance: (will the product do the intended (planed or

proposed) job). Potential costumer usually evaluate a product todetermine if it will perform certain specific functions and

determine how well it perform them.Example: producing document case leather bag, for what purpose does is bag produced,

does the bag has multi function pocket?

2.Reliability: (how often does the product fail?) different products

may need repair over their service life. The leather machineries

should be also reliable so as to increase productivityExample: when we produce the leather garment, it needs higher attention during

stitching. Because the nature of the needle is like cuter edge type and stitch thecomponent by cutting the part. So re stitching is not done, means no repair and only

rejection.


12/63

Dimensions of quality3.Durability: (how long does the product last?).This is the effective service life of the product

customer obviously want products that performed satisfactorily over a long period of time.

4.Serviceability: (how easy is it to repair the product?). There are many industries where thecustomers view of quality is directly influenced by how quickly and economically a repair or

routine maintenance activity can be accomplished.

Example: planned maintenance of stitching machine.

5. Aesthetics: what does the product look like?). this is the visual appeal of the product,

often taking into account factors such as style, color, shape, packaging alternatives and

other sensory features.6.Features :( what does the product do? ). Usually customer associate high quality with

products that have added features: that is, those that has features beyond the basic

performance of the competition


13/63

Helena M de Klerk and Stephina J Lubbe;Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 32, 2004


14/63

Quality in the garment Industry

Still at inspection level AQL

Quality is inspected into the product.

A few firms are attempting SPC. Still a long way to go to finally reach global

quality standards


15/63

Why improve quality?

FOB is getting lesser

Delivery time is getting lesser

Costs are increasing.

We need to keep providing better service tohold the buyers attention.

Provide indisputable quality

Provide indisputable quality at better costs.


16/63

Importance of QUALITY

The consumer quality expectations have gone up

Consumer is too busy to come back and complain

Consumer is not interested to take special care of

the product

Consumer spending on apparel has reduced

Stringent consumer protection laws

Stores cannot afford a dissatisfied customer

Working with non-quality vendors is costly


17/63


18/63

Terms related to quality

Quality Assurance

1. All those planned and systematic actions

necessary to provide adequate confidence that a

product or service will satisfy given requirementsfor quality.

2. The establishment and maintenance of ALLactivities and functions concerned with the

attainment of requisite quality"


19/63

Terms related to quality Quality Control

1.The operational techniques and the activities used to

fulfill the requirements of quality is called quality

control. It is the regulatory process through which we

measure actual quality performance, compare it withquality goals and act on the difference.

2. The systems required for programming and coordinating

the efforts of the various groups in an organization to

maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is

seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality

Control


20/63

Quality related terms

Quality Management -That aspect of the

overall management function that

determines and implements the qualitypolicy.

Quality System -The organizational

structure, responsibilities, procedures,processes and resources for implementing

quality management


21/63

Session 3,4

What is Quality Standard and Quality

Grade

Different textile and apparelstandards

Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 14

Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-

Sara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3


22/63

Standards

Standard a set of characteristics or

procedures that provide a basis for resource

and production decisions.

Standardization - is the process of developing

and applying rules for a consistent and

uniform approach to a specific activity for the

benefit and with the cooperation of allconcerned.


23/63

Standards-uses1. Used to define weights and measures

2. Used to set forth practices and expectations in

the field.3. Used to describe the characteristics of a product

in a precise and consistent fashion.

4. Used to describe a minimum level of

performance and safety.5. Used to convey information about a product or

material in a consistent manner.

6. Enhances efficiencystandardization of parts,

processes and products enables economies ofscale in production.

7. Standardization leads to enhanced competition.


24/63

Types/Levels of standards

Company Standards-describe general characteristics

or features of a product or service or they describe a

required level of performance.

Useful for the design, purchase, development andproduction departments as they may be developed

by the company itself or adopt other organization's

standards for its specific purpose.


25/63

Types/Levels of standards

Industry standards reflect consensus among

companies in an industry or among individual

members of a profession.

Developed by trade associations or

professional bodies.


26/63

Levels/Types of standards

Voluntary standards- allows individuals orcompanies to determine on their ownwhether to adopt a standard.

ASTMone of the largest voluntary standardsdevelopment system in the world

Mandatory standards adoption is required

by law or regulation. Mostly related to healthor safety issues.


27/63

Comparison between Various U.S. Drawstring Standards

Neck area Prohibitions- ASTM Standard (F1816-97) aVoluntary national

standard:

No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of

certain childrens clothing. Only childrens upper

outerwear. Sizes 2t to 12.

Wisconsin Law(ATCP 139)-aState regulation:

No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of allchildrens clothing. All childrens clothing. Sizes 0

to 16.


28/63

Levels/Types of standards

International standards-standards are usedinternationally to facilitate trade and technologytransfer among nations

Goal is to Enhance product quality and reliability at reasonable

prices

Improve health and safety and environmental protection

Reduce hazards

Produce greater compatibility of goods and services

Simplify and improve product and service usability

Increase distribution efficiency


29/63

Different standardizing bodies( refer Sara Kadolph; Mehta and Bhardwaj)

ASQC- American Society for Quality control ASQC_TNT- American society for quality control-textiles

and needle trade division

ASTM- American Society for Testing and Materials

AATCC-American association of textile chemists and

colorists ANSI-American national standards Institution

ISO- International organization for standardization

BSI- British Standards Institute

BIS- Bureau of Indian Standards. AQC of AAMA Apparel Quality committee of American

Apparel Manufacturer's Association.


30/63

Grade

The process of assigning a numerical value

based on the number, size,and severity of

defects observed during a visual inspection;

the symbol, number, or letter used for anystep in a multistep standard reference scale

for a quality characteristic.


31/63

Session 5,6

What is Quality Specification Concept

of Tolerances

Ref: Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-

Sara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3 and 10


32/63

Specifications

Is a precise statement of a set of requirements

to be satisfied by a material, product, system

or service that indicates the procedures for

determining whether each of therequirements is satisfied.

Requirements- are non negotiable.they need

to be met for the specs to be satisfied.


33/63

Specifications

Specs describe requirements- in terms and/or

numerical values.

Minimum is the least or lowest acceptable

value for any given parameter or dimension

Tolerance - describes the range of acceptable

values.

Not all specs will include tolerances


34/63

Types of specifications

Open- allows for consideration of multiple

vendors and includes a description of the

character and /or performance desired in the

product or material to be purchased.

Closed specifies the exact material,

component, or product by manufacturer or

vendor and includes style numbers, tradenames or other such specific identities.


35/63

Application of specifications.

1. Used to describe the materials ,procedures,dimensions and performance for a particularproduct or style.

2. Reflect the standard- co. standards, costs,

customer needs and expectations andimplementation abilities.

3. Used as a communication tool- for production,for suppliers and for customer.

4. To negotiate bids and contracts

5. Used for purchasing materials for production

6. Used as a determinant for quality.


36/63


37/63

*Fabric Yardage / Width

*Hand feel / Quality*Color / Print

*Fabric Weight

*Wash & Dry Shrinkage

*Color Fastness* What percent of goods inspected prior to cutting?

* Are shade controlled and segregated by lots at storage stage?

* Use of a light box?

* Spectrophotometer?

* What is the light source used?

* Is there pre-testing on the shrinkage prior cutting?

* How is the pre-testing done?

* Records on shade bands?

SPECIFICATION GUIDELINES FOR PIECE GOODS INSPECTION

h


38/63

Garment spec sheets Specification sheets provide important

details to ensure the correct execution ofpatterns into finished garments.

Spec sheets help to produce accurate

samples, which improves turnaround timeand simplifies communication during all

stages of manufacturing and quality

control.

Spec sheets include detailed technical

diagrams, construction notes, finished

garment measurements, fabric yields and

material and trim details.


39/63


40/63

Session7,8

Assignment 1- assigned on 20.08.10;

To be submitted on 27.8.10;

time- 3 hrs(2 sessions) ;

marks -20


41/63

Assignment 1- 20 marks

Prepare a garment specification sheet for a

garment of choice, inspect the garment and

record the inspection report in the

prescribed format. Individual assignment

Criteria of evaluation

Selection of garment- 3 marks

Specification sheet-7 marks

Inspection report 10 marks O


42/63

Session 9,10

Fabric Inspection ;Defects

Testing

Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-

Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 2,Pages 14-20 and pg 75-77

and Chapter 3


43/63

Fabric- defects

Woven- Knitted-

Broken end Barre

Broken Pick Birdseye

Coarse end/Pick Coarse yarn

Color Fly Yarn Dropped stitches

Double end/double pick Fine yarn

End out Missing Yarn

Mispick Needle Line

Hole Run

Shade Bar Tucking Defect

Slub .

Thick and Thin Places

..


44/63

Fabric

Inspection And Grading

4 point system

10 point system

Graniteville 78 system

Fabric grading


45/63

Fabric grading

4 point system 10 point systemGraniteville 78

Allows max. 4 penalty

points to one linear yard

Allows max.10 points

per linear yard

Max.no.of pointsper linear yard=

fabric width /9

width in inches.

Points for only lengthwise defects and holes

Warp as well as filling

defects carry points Length of defect iscounted-can be weft

or warp

Not sensitive to width

of fabric

Sensitive to width of

fabric

Sensitive to width

of fabric

Total defect points per

100square yards should

not exceed 40

If no. of penalty points

are


46/63

p y

Size of defects (Inches) Assigned Points

3 inches or less 1

Over 3 but not over 6 2

Over 6 but not over 9 3Over 9 inches 4

All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point countlevel of a roll of fabric is as follows:

Total Points x 3,600 = Points per 100 yard2

Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (in)-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10 point system

Size of Defect (Inches) Warp Assigned Points

1 inch or less 1

1 to 5 inches 3

5 to 10 inches 510 to 36 inches 10

Size of Defect (Inches) Weft Assigned Points

1 inch or less 1

1 to 5 inches 3

5 inches to half width 5

Large than half width 10

Fabric Check ListDivision/Season: Style:


47/63

Division/Season: Style:

Fabric Pattern#: Type

Fabric Supplier: Roll #:

Piece Length:

1)General Appearance (against weaving/dyeing/ printing standard): ________

2)Construction:Check against hand standard): ________

3)Width( as specified in contract): ________

4)Piece length (as per tag and packing list): ________

5)Design/Pattern and colors/shades (as per approved strike off or lab dip): ________

-Any repeat variation ________

6)MAJOR DEFECTS

1-Centre to Selvedge variation _________2- End to End shading _________

3-Broken or missing ends/Picks _________

4-Torn ,Wavy, Folded or Tight Selvedges _________

5- Coarse Yarn in Warp or Weft _________

6- Holes _________

7-Double or multiple ends/picks _________

8-Loom stop marks _________

10-Noticeable Shade or filling bars _________

11-Noticeable Dead Crease mark/line _________

12-Noticeable Dye Streaks and stains through the roll _________

13- Bowing or skewing _________

14- Reed marks _________

15-Foreigh matter/soiled yarn _________

16-Neps _________

17-Oil Stains _________18----------- ________


48/63

Gap standards for Piece goods Inspection

i


49/63

Testing

The analysis and evaluation of a material or

product to assess its characteristics, quality

or performance.

Test method- is a definitive procedure for

the identification, measurement, and

evaluation of one or more qualities,

characteristics or properties of a material,

product, system or service that produces atest result.


50/63

Testing of fabrics

Precision: the degree of agreement within aset of observations or test results obtainedby using a test method.

Accuracy: the degree of agreementbetween the true value of the propertybeing tested ( an accepted standard value)and the average of many observations

made according to the test method,preferably by many observers.

Reliability


51/63

Testing conditions

Standard Humidity and temperature

conditions to be maintained-

Relative humidity-65+2%

Temperature 21+1oC(70+ 2oF)

Min. 4 hrs in standard test conditions to reach

equilibrium


52/63

Testing of fabrics Fabric Strength Yarn Count, Yarn Twist, Fabric

construction, Fabric weight and width.

Yarn Slippage

Color fastness- to light, washing, rubbing, sunlight,

perspiration, chlorine ,dry cleaning, heat etc.

Dimensional Changes In Fabrics Due To Laundering, Dry-

cleaning, Steaming, Pressing

Bow and Skewness

Fabric Thickness

Pilling

Abrasion Resistance

T ti f f b i


53/63

Testing of fabrics

Each individual to conduct testing of fabrics in the F&Ttesting lab and record the following in the log book:

1The test being conducted

2.The standard used

3.The test requirements4.Method of testing and

5.The instrument used

6. Any special instructions/ conditions for the test.


54/63

Session 11-14

Testing at lab


55/63

Session 15

Trims DefectsRef: Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 3


56/63

Trims Defects

Sewing threads-

Imperfections in the yarn

Finish

Color

Package density

Winding

Yardage

Trims defects Zippers


57/63

Trims defects -Zippers

To check for-

Dimensions

Locks at ends and tab-

to be securely attached

Color of tape

Tape quality- no

wrinkling/puckering

Fading of color on

washing or ironing

Deformities due to

washing/ironing

Kinds of defects-

Ratcheting

Shear

Slider distortion

Sewing

Bottom stop

Hump

Popping

Wrongly placed closures at zip

end

Chemical degradation

Design problems


58/63

Trim Defects

Buttons

Clear holes

Uniform thickness

Color Laundering/ironing/dry

cleaning pressures

No cracked edges or

sharp edges at holes Uniform distance of

holes

Buckles

Sharp edges

Color/material-

appropriate for use

Snap Fasteners

Close properly

Metal quality

No sharp edges afterattaching


59/63

Testing of Trims

Zippers Durability of finish of zippers to laundering

Colorfastness of zippers to laundering

Colorfastness of zippers to light

Colorfastness of zippers to crocking

Colorfastness of zippers to laundering

Durability of finish of zippers to dry cleaning

Resistance of zippers to salt spray (fog)

Measuring of zipper dimensions

Strength tests of zippers

Operability of zippers

Testing of Trims


60/63

Testing of Trims

Buttons

Impact Resistance

Shape

Uniformity

Resistance to Unsnapping - Snap Fasteners

Hook and loop fasteners

peel strength

sheer strength

shrinkage,

color fastness


61/63

Testing of Trims

Elastic-

Resistance to degradation (becoming loose, losing

elasticity) due to laundering

Elastic Limit Testing

Fusible Interlining

Bond Strength

Shrinkage and Stretch

Delamination and Strike back

Testing of Trims


62/63

Testing of Trims

Sewing threads

Friction testing

Colorfastness test & abrasion resistance

Yarn number testing

Twist balance

Shrinkage

Strength and Elongation

Twist

Evenness Diameter (Thickness)


63/63

Mid term

Documents

QUALITY and its Concept