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Why I built this Spot welder
I decided to build this Spot Welder for small brackets, boxes and much other small
fabrication work that I do from time to time where my Mig Welder is just too awkwardfor such fine work.
I was originally going to build a bench version of this Spot Welder, using only the Clamp
mechanism I drew up, and mount the Transformer to the Bench separately linkedtogether using heavy Welding or Battery Cable, but decided to make it compact and
portable instead, (more for storage and a challenge than anything else).
You could buy a Spot Welder from eBay or some Tool distributors if the Dollars permitor you could have fun building this one for much less and will work well.
The one big requirement you will need to start this project is a suitable Transformer; youcan acquire one from old Junk Yards, some (non operational) Microwave ovens, even
some old ARC Welder Transforms can be modified and used as well, or you could have
a Transformer Manufacturer build one up for you at a cost.
Transformers are a Science all to there own with some smaller types able to put out more
than big ones of the same Volt Amps (VA or KVA for short), Many factors come intoplay during there construction, the Core Materials being one that govern there output and
duty cycle.
BE WARNED you will be working with HIGH ac voltages in a couple of areas, SO, please adhere to theWarnings I have mentioned in the Plans. You build this project at your own risk; I hold no responsibility for your
or anyone elses personal injury.
These plans are the property of The Edge Products / eziplans.com
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Operation Switch
Timer Switch
Lightly weld the two Spacers onto
the side plates prior to drilling andtapping
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SPOT WELDER PRE-BUILD PROJECT EXPLANATION
I have supplied free for you CAD DXF drawings so that you can have them laser cut, this will make your work much easier
and accurate, or, you may wish to build from the Plan measurements, its entirely up to you.
All the holes done during the laser cutting are reference holes and will need to be drilled out afterwards to give an accurate
finished size.
The Timer circuit plans are also supplied for you along with all the parts and part numbers needed from Jaycar electronics.
Web site, http://www.jaycar.com.au/
I have only given limited details on the transformer build as their are many types, sizes and designs that can do the job,
some work much better than others for the same VA or KVA for short periods, and, can be smaller in there physical design,
it just depends on what you can get.
To be safe I would strongly suggest you have an electrician do checks on any 240v work you did before using the spot
welder, and make sure you earth the transformer and parts bolted to it.
The Transformer power cord should be at least 15amp 2.5mm Sq wire size to avoid voltage drop, depending on the
transformer used it could pull up to or even more than 20amps so it is best you use on a 15amp circuit with a 20amp
breaker if legally possible.
I havent given any measurements on the back transformer housing and cover that contains the electronic timer due to somany different size transformers, but the photos should give you an idea of how it is made.
The Spot Welder Tips are Copper Alloy, either Copper Beryllium mix, or Copper Zirconium Chromium mix or better
and turned down at the tip end; you could use Brass or just plain Copper but they will not last as long.
Caution
Be careful when sanding copper containing Beryllium as it is known to be carcinogenic, best to wear a Breathing mask and
wash exposed areas afterwards.
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HINGING MECHANISM INSTUCTIONS
The hinging mechanism build should be built as shown in the instructions, depending on the
Transformer used the measurements must stay the same.
If for any reason you need to differ in length or height ONLY (again depending on the
transformer used) you can add to the bottom of the side plates below the insulated arm
Plate, and, where it attaches to the Transformer face otherwise the cam mechanism will not
work properly.
If you prefer to make the Transformer separate from the Mechanism then you can mount
both the Transformer and the Hinge mechanism to a preferred surface with large Battery or
Welding cable between the arm cable mounts.
Its a good idea to remove the insulation of the cables and wrap the bare Copper leads with
Glass Tape to handle the heat, But, that is optional.
If you prefer as I did to make it a portable spot welder then you may need to make a flexible
lead on the top handle hinge plate, there are a few of ways to do it.
1. Several strips of thin copper sheet bolted at each end in a laminate configuration, or,
2. Stripping a piece of Heavy Battery Cable, untwisting the big strands till straight, insert theminto a Battery terminal end and then clamping tight. (solder them in if you dont have the
right tool just dont let the cable get to hot or the solder will melt away), or,
3. Use Woven earth strapping in two or three layers (like you see on some older Vehicles
where the negative side of the battery goes to the chassis) and swage some copper tube
over the ends to prevent fraying, carefully drill a hole through the middle and bolt to the armend and transformer. See Fig 1
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TRANSFORMER BUILD INSTUCTIONS
You are best to find a transformer that is at least rated at 1.5 2.5 KVA for this project, anything
less than that will not produce much of a spot weld unless its thin gauge black steel or stainlesssteel, with, the primary windings wound underneath the secondary windings.
To wind the transformer secondary windings you will need to get very heavy gauge battery cable
and wrap that around at least 5 7 turns to gain enough voltage to deliver the current, (again
with the insulation removed and wrapped with glass tape). Less turns will give you more current,
but, will not be as effective as the voltage drops to much relying on what resistance is left to
deliver any useful current. Their are a lot of factors that apply here, with the transformer core, and
material used having a lot to do with it; experimenting before the build is a good idea.
You could use heavy annealed copper sheet and wrap that around the primary with elephant hide
as an insulator, the only disadvantage with that is it is very hard and time consuming to do unlessdone prior to the laminate insertion through the primary wound bobbin.
You can use microwave transformers but they are usually only suited to light sheet work and lack
in performance due to their design, however, if you have two or three IDENTICAL microwave
transformers of the same wattage and primary ohms and you wound the secondary windingsthe same, you can either put them in parallel or in series to gain more current, paralleling is the
better but it is best to read up about that if your unsure. For a guide, If series connecting is your
preference then wind the Transformers at 2 turns each when using 3 transformers or 3 Turns
each when using 2 transformers to give you approximately 6 7 Volts output.
If you cannot obtain a transformer you could always have one built by a professional at areasonable cost that will do the job a lot better for this project.
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INSTUCTIONS for Figs 1 - 7
1st drill the 8mm hole at the end, it will close up but easy to re-drill afterwards, it will help when
the crushing process begins, also make sure you anneal the copper ends only before crushing.
Basically build as shown, but, with the copper ends of the cable use the measurements as
shown.
These ends will need to be squashed up TIGHT in a strong vice temporarily and then use a
press to finish off the process. The sides should compress inward at least 5mm or more and
will need to be filled back flat afterwards.
The secondary winding ends must not exceed the width of the air gap or you wont be able to
feed them between the primary windings and the core; although, if you mount the transformer
separately from the clamp system, you can use proper crimp cable ends after it has been
wound, but, make sure you make the cable longer before hand.
The depth of all holes are 9mm so make sure you exceed that by 1mm or more when crushing
otherwise you will file into the Wire, you need that 1mm solid copper to compress down as well.
See figs 2,3,4,5 & 6
This instruction is only a guide, it will strongly depend on the air gap between coil andinside the core and how you approach the secondary winding and cable size.
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14 Strips of 6ml Fine Copper Automotive Wire
with the insulation striped off or use BatteryCable untwisted and stripped
CopperCopper
Fig 1
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INSTUCTIONS
Press down to 8 mm or less
Use a strong G clamp and two pieces of solid 6mm flat and clamp down tight
With a little grease between the metal and copper, this will prevent the
Face from opening up during the side Crush, the Grease assists in allowing the
slide movement without any binding .
Then put that under the press and close up the sides all the way along
the length
8 mm
You now need to file or mill this end piece
Back to 8mm as well but only after youve
Compressed the sides
1mm or more past
Hole depth
2
6
5
3
4
Figs 2,3,4,5 & 6
TIPWhen using the two pieces of 6mm flat
You need to make them at least 5mm
narrower than the copper ends to be
Crushed and centered prior to the crush.
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A
BC D
These connector legs are only needed if you are going to makea portable type spot welder, and can be lengthened or shortened
to suit your transformer adapter plate build.
The top leg (A) should not exceed the height measurement of
14mm shown in the plans and should always stay as is, but, can
be extended down if needed along with bottom leg (B).
(C) witch runs along the base can be extended downwards also,
If need be, BUT, do not change the bottom plate (D) height.
In saying that if you prefer to make a bench or non portable version
of the spot welder and decided to narrow up the clamp distance
then you could cut out a section between the two red lines. The onlyProblem in doing that is, you will lack room for big folded items
between the arms.
4.5mm
14mm
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62mm
30 mm
2nd 6 mm Plate
10 mm
7 mm
X 4
5 mm Holes
X 4
1st 6 mm Plate
Top PlateBottom Plate
Thread all 4 Holesto Suit 5mm
Al len Screw Bolts
10 mm
7 mm
X 4
12 mm Bend Distance
25 mm Top View
30 mm
Handel
Joiner25 mm
6 mm Plate
Bend End
Weld
20 mm
10 mm
10mm
X 2
4
0mm
30 mm
50 mm
81 mm
25mm
6 mm Plate
6 mm Plate 6 mm Plate
10 mm
10m
m
X 2
STEELSTEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
45mm
5mm
X 4
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85mm48
mm
20 mm
25 mm
30
mm
50 mm
8 mm Holes12 mm
Drill and Tap Hole to
a 5/16 UNF Thread
For the Earth Strap
14mm
Diameter
6 mm Plate
3 mm
7 mm
7 mm
7 mm
30mm
5.5 mm gap for weldsEND View
8 mm Holes
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
31 mm
12 mm6 mm Hole
STEEL
4 mm Plate
4 mm
66 mm
8 mm
89mm
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4 mm Plate x 2
38 mm Diameter Circle
5 mm Plate 12 mm20 mm
63 mm
51mm
48 mm
70mm
or
226.75
deg
185mm
18 mm 9 mm
50m
m
68m
m
44mm
64mm
75 mm
47 mm
125mm
11 MM
18mmDiam
eter
8.5 mm
Hole taped to
3/8 UNF
8.5 mm
Hole and Tapped
To 3/8 UNF once
The 6 mm Spacer
Blocks have been
welded in Place.Tip,
MAKE sure you
Tape the holes
In a straight line.
Using the Drill
Press to HandTurn the Tap with
The job firmly
Clamped is best
16 x 6 mm with a 8.5 mm hole drilled for tapping x 2Spacers
Spacers go
on the inside
of Side Chassis
Plates
Bottom
10 mm
20mm
12 mm
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
14 mm
5mm
8mm
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16mm
Brass Thick
Wall Pipe
or
PreferablySolid Bar
Front View
20 mm
26 mm
10.5 mm
7mm
25 mm
25 mm
47mm
120 mm x 1/4 UNF for U Bolt
20 mm
Both Ends
29 mm
29 mm
8 MM
Hole
12 mm
Make sure you put a 1 mm spacer
Between the two insulator Plates
Before drilling the 20 mm hole.
Use either hard wood, bakelite or
equivalent for the two insulators
25 mm
20 mm
Cut Through for
Clamping tight
12mm
14.5 mm
This piece is Brass
welded to the end of
the cut hex Brass
Bush and filed flat
(chamfer ends first)
5.5 mm
Top View
SideView
STEEL
BRASS
BRASS
30mm
61.5 mm
Top View
5.5 MM
Holes x 4Drill Holes to suit
Top Plate
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3/8 UNF Bolt
9.5 mm from
washer face
Machine end to a 8 mm Pin no more than 6.5 long
Centre Line
X 2
X 2
4 mm from
washer face
Machine end to a 8 mm Pin no more than 6.5 long
Centre Line
3/8 UNF Bolt
52 mm long x 8 mm wide pin
8 mm wide
By 3 mm deep
slot26 mm
5/16 UNF
By 8 mm long
5/16 UNF
By 28 mm long
62 mm
8 MM
Hole16 mm Square
Steel Bar
29 mm long5/16 UNF
By 8 mm deep
Top view
End view
61.5 mm x 8 mm pin
15.5 mm 15.5 mm
30.5 mm down to 1/4 mm
Optional
File a flat
Both sides
To suit a
1/4 inchspanner
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16 mm
8 mm Hole
24.5mm
8 mm Hole
8 mm
19 mm
3 mm
20mm
3 mm
25 mm
25mm
6.2mm
X 2
X 2
19mm
31.2 mm
49.5 mm
5 mm Plate
3 mm Plate
6 mm Plate
Weld
Top View
5
0mm
16.5mm
x
x
x
8 mm Hole
STEEL
STEEL
STEELSTEEL
STEEL
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Outer Side View
3/8 UNC Thread
End View
10 or 12 mm Hole
20 mm
18 mm
34 mm
17mm
223 mm
228 mm
BRASS
BRASS
Option 1
8 mm
6 mm
8 mm
These two end plugs are used to preventDamage done to the Copper beryllium alloy
Electrodes by the constant
Tightening and un-tightening of the
Grub Screws
BRASS
End plug
End plug
3/8 UNC
Grub Screw
3/8 UNC
Grub Screw
TOP BAR
BOTTOM BAR
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12 mm
40mm
30 mm25 mm
32mm
18 mm
150 mm
14 Strips of 6ml Fine Copper Automotive Wire
with the insulation striped off or use Battery
Cable untwisted and stripped
Copper
BRASSCopper
CopperCopper
BRASS
CopperCopper
14 x 5 mm Holes
9 mm Deep
14 x 5 mm Holes
9 mm Deep
Option 3
Option 2
From Transformer
From Transformer
From Transformer to Lift Lever Hinge Plate
This length may differ depending on transformer connections
etc, best to use a short piece of wire to get the best fit with no
binding between the open an closed position of the arms.
mm Sizes are before the crush
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20 mm
10 mm
5/16 UNF Thread
Knurled Brass
Adjusting Button
Use a 16 mm diameter 2.5 or 3 mm
coiled spring 28 30m long
TIP
Some junked motor bike clutch springs
Are well suited for this
STEEL Tube
120 mm x 20 mm Tube
Handel
X 2
8 mm
4 mm
3 mm
16 mm This internal Spacer size
will Depend on the
internal spring Diameter
you use and is machinedfrom Nylon (Optional)
These 3 parts you dont need
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CAD Drawing Images of DXF Parts
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332Vdc
N
A100uF 63V
Electrolytic
240Vac
TLC
555
(CMos)
26K
1 K
4k7
63v
47uF0.01uF
Solid State
Relay
(Primary)
Variable
Trim Pot
WHEN R1 = 1K , T = 52 M/Seconds
WHEN R1 = 26K , T = 1.35 Seconds
1
28
6
5
3
7 4
Foot Switch
Or
Lever Switch
240VoltSide
0.01uF
+
100k
13 Volt DC
Transformer
8.5v
ac
CautionDo Not exceed 17volts to the
TLC 555 Chip or you will blow it up.
After the Bridge rectifier and once the 100uF Capacitor has been put in place you will notice
an increase In voltage, Please adhere to the Caution in Red.
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Pictures
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Extended down 20MM
On Mine, not put into the
Supplied Plans
Modifications on Mine, not
put into the supplied Plans
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Bridge Piece
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This Flexible Earth Strap I made is for reference, you will
need to modify its design slightly to suit your Transformer
if needed
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if needed.
I actually used a bridge piece from the transformer OUTPUT to
this Strap and clamped them to the Side Plate to stop any
unnecessary movement on the OUTPUT terminal of the transformer,
Just incase it broke down the insulation material overtime.
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