When I profiled JosMeyer in The Wines of Alsace (Faber & Faber, 1993), it was producing 33,000 12-bottle cases of wine, It now averages just 16,000 cases. Why?

The plunge in production is not the result of any decline in sales; it merely reflects the transition from JosMeyer the négociant to JosMeyer the biodynamic grower. By the early 1990s, Jean Meyer was supplementing his own 12 hectares (30 acres) of vineyards with grapes purchased from 45ha (111 acres) under contract with 50 growers, but since 2000 his entire production has been domaine-bottled from just 27.5ha (68 acres), all of which is farmed biodynamically. Certification was granted in 2004, since when every wine produced has been certified organic by ECoCErT and biodynamic by Agriculture Biologique.

Jean Meyer’s own vineyards have always been farmed in an ultra-viticulture raisonnée way that respected nature, worked the soil, and used the minimum of chemicals—so moving to biodynamics was not a huge philosophical leap. Indeed, the entire Meyer family had been eating organic and biodynamic products since the mid-1980s. It was, therefore, a logical next step, and the only obstacle was Jean’s own workload, since he was running JosMeyer single-handedly—

from the vineyard, to the winemaking, sales, marketing, and administration. Biodynamic farming was such a labor-intensive commitment that it was unthinkable for Jean, even when his biodynamically inclined daughter Isabelle started to assist him in the cellar in 1992. After Isabelle completed her BTS in enology at Montpellier in 1991, she had seen the benefits of biodynamics at first hand while working with Noël Pinguet at Domaine Huet. As unimaginable as biodynamics was for JosMeyer in 1992, the seeds that would inevitably lead to its implementation had been sown at Vinexpo two years earlier, when Isabelle met Christophe Ehrhart, a young Alsace wine grower with a passion for viticulture. They were married in 1994, and one year later Christophe joined JosMeyer as vineyard manager. on the suggestion of Jean Meyer, he enrolled at the Viticulture College of rouffach, where he came under the influence of Jean Schaetzel, the owner of Domaine Martin Schaetzel, and one of the earliest proponents of organic and biodynamic agriculture in Alsace. Already impressed by Isabelle’s working experience at Domaine Huet, Christophe was immediately receptive to Schaetzel’s infectious passion. It is not hard to imagine how biodynamics became the topic of family-business conversation among

Biodynamics may have been a logical next step for Jean Meyer, but could he pull off the rare trick of producing wines that were not bigger and sweeter,

merely longer and purer? Tom Stevenson went to find out

JoSMEyErTrEADINg A DIFFErENT PATH

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Christophe, Jean, and Isabelle in 1995/96; and when their highly respected neighbor, olivier Humbrecht MW, began conversion to biodynamics in 1997, these discussions came to a head. The decision to move into biodynamic farming was agreed in 1998, preparations were made in 1999, and conversion began in 2000.

To overcome Jean’s obligation to purchase the harvests of 45ha (111 acres), representing no less than 60 percent of JosMeyer’s total production, he gave the 50 contracted growers two years’ notice. He offered to farm biodynamically any of these growers’ vineyards on a 30-year rental agreement, should they be willing to undergo conversion, but he did not abandon those who declined, instead finding them new buyers for their grapes (most went to Hugel, some to Trimbach and to Wunsch & Mann, but a few preferred to join a cooperative, either in Turckheim or Eguisheim). only eight owners agreed to biodynamic conversion, and their 13.95ha (34.47 acres), together with Christophe’s own 1.45ha (3.58 acres), have increased

Josmeyer’s domaine to 27.5ha (67.95 acres), all of which is within 2.5 miles (4km) of the JosMeyer winery.

Jean told me that these eight growers belonged to just four families, each of which “very much had respect for nature, working the soil and cultivating their small plots more like private gardens than commercial vineyards.” And as Christophe told me, “It was very easy converting these vineyards because, like Jean’s, they hardly used any chemicals, the soil was still healthy, and the vines quickly adapted.”

The JosMeyer signatureThe JosMeyer style has not changed very much since I first met Jean Meyer in 1985, almost 20 years after he made his first award-winning wines. At our initial meeting I tasted back to the early 1970s, so my experience of his winemaking style spans almost the entire era. Biodynamics has made no impact on the JosMeyer style, merely the purity of the fruit at his disposal, and thus there are fewer winemaking problems to contend with in the cellar.

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All of JosMeyer’s own vineyards are now cultivated biodynamically, with plowing as an essential tenet

As a true gourmand, Jean demands a style that is crisp, dry, and elegant. In the future, we shall see the feminine touch that Isabelle will bring, but I’m sure the parameters of the style will be essentially the same. JosMeyer’s Pinot gris and gewurztraminer sometimes have a little residual sugar but, with few exceptions, not as much as most examples of these varietals from the majority of Alsace producers today. As a vertical tasting of JosMeyer will reveal, plenty of these wines are bone dry, and that is what I love about Jean Meyer: He has gone biodynamic, but his wines remain dry! When his wines go up in quality to the lieux-dits and grands crus, they do not get bigger or sweeter; they just get longer and attain greater finesse.

of course, it helps that JosMeyer’s grapes are not overripe in the first place, but whereas other biodynamic producers will leave as much sugar in a wine as its natural yeasts mysteriously “think best,” Jean Meyer will, in most cases, encourage the fermentation to continue. one famous biodynamic producer in Alsace told me: “I refuse to put on a white coat and open up a box of tricks to make wine ferment until it is dry.” But Jean never resorts to such measures. He has used nothing but indigenous yeasts since 1967 and would no more dream of deploying a designer yeast to mop up all the residual sugar than would any other biodynamic producer. If you walk through his cellars during the fermentation period, you will see that each stainless-steel tank and old oak foudre has a small blackboard marked with a series of notations in two columns. The first column contains the usual specific gravity readings, indicating how much sugar remains, thus how close the wine is to completing its fermentation. The second column consists of a number of crosses, indicating how much the wine is “talking.” Jean and Isabelle listen to each tank and foudre to discern how active the fermentation is: The more talkative

it is, the more crosses it gets, up to a maximum of three. A zero denotes a stopped fermentation, but this is extremely rare, since the whole idea is that they should catch a wine before its “conversation” dries up.

Using this method, there are many ways of encouraging the fermentation to continue without putting on a white coat and opening a box of tricks. As Jean explained: “When you listen to how a wine ferments, and it seems sleepy compared to the others, you pump air into the cask to bring the lees into suspension. The dead yeast cells provide food for the live yeasts. If you do this early enough, it is usually sufficient, but there are other solutions, such as warming the cask or using a gram or two of sulfur. It might sound counterintuitive to add sulfur, but you only need a little to kill some bacteria, and the yeast will increase vitality in the better conditions. you can also pump a few hectoliters into a smaller cask and add a small quantity of another, more vigorous ferment of the same grape variety. After a few days it should be working so well that all you have to do is pump it back into the original tank to re-energize that fermentation.”

The range All JosMeyer wines are certified biodynamically farmed and domaine-bottled, with no chaptalization, and no addition of yeasts or enzymes. There is usually no malolactic, though in years like 2001 a little malolactic sometimes happens spontaneously. Where vinification in both stainless steel and old oak foudres is indicated, the initial fermentation will be conducted in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks before the wine is transferred into large, old oak foudres, where it is fermented until dry, or more or less dry (residual sugar is normally 3g/l, within a range of 2–7g/l), unless it is to be in a sweet style such as Samain, Vendange Tardive, or Sélection de grains Nobles. (In my notes, unless I specifically indicate a certain sweetness, the reader should assume the wine is either dry or tastes dry.) Until 2000, there was no temperature control, and most wines, with the exception of the Prestige line, were either wholly or partly made from purchased fruit, usually picked during the first two weeks of a standard five-week harvest.

ConclusionI have always admired the elegance and purity of JosMeyer, and the purity of fruit in these wines has increased since the introduction of biodynamic farming and the restriction to exclusively domaine-bottled wines. But the choice is too bewildering, even for Alsace. There is, for example, a generic riesling, riesling Kottabe, riesling Dragon, riesling Les Pierrets, riesling grand Cru Brand and riesling grand Cru Hengst—and I haven’t even mentioned the VTs or SgNs. The different ranges are a product of JosMeyer’s négociant roots, but they do not project the image of a single domaine. There should be just one exceptionally high-quality, entry-level range; a step up to a terroir range, each wine of which proclaims its lieu-dit; with grands crus Brand and Hengst at the point of the apex.

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Generic wines

Sylvaner

made from 90% Sylvaner Blanc and 10% Sylvaner rouge, vinified

exclusively in old oak foudre. Sylvaner rouge, I hear you ask? yes. In

fact, josmeyer used to produce a pure Sylvaner rouge, and the 2001

was a lip-smacking bargain of a wine, but this variant was banned.

Although jean uprooted the vines that made the 2001, he planted more

when the ban was reversed and up to 10% rouge was allowed in any

Sylvaner varietal. Hopefully jean can persuade the authorities to allow

a pure Sylvaner rouge in the future. If not, he plans to release a pure

Sylvaner rouge vin de table and has even registered the name:

Peaurouge (“redskin”). The 2007 Sylvaner is crisp, clean, and completely

dry (rS 2g/l), with a nice touch of bitter almonds on the finish. 14.5

Fleur de Lotus

Typically made from 60–65% Auxerrois (for body), 30–35%

Gewurztraminer (for spice and fat), and 5% riesling (for acidity and

increasing length), this blend is vinified exclusively in stainless steel.

The 2007 is fresh, easy-drinking, and relatively dry (rS 5g/l), with

hints of floral ginger. 15

Pinot Blanc

made from 90% Auxerrois and 10% Pinot Blanc, this wine is vinified in

stainless steel and old oak foudre. The 2005 is light, fresh, and easy-

drinking, with some citrus and white peach. Absolutely dry (rS 2g/l),

with fine soft acidity. 16

Riesling

Vinified in stainless steel and old oak foudre, this entry-level riesling is

seldom critiqued by wine writers, who usually start with Le Kottabe.

yet, since 2000, when it became a domaine-bottled wine, this riesling

has consistently displayed excellent, medium-term potential, making it

truly exceptional value. The 2004 has already developed elegant,

petrolly aromas, yet its crisply dry (rS 4g/l) lime and green-apple fruit

promises more. 17.5. The 2002 tastes bigger and richer, though it has

only 1g more of residual sugar and the alcohol is actually lower, but it

has substantially more total acidity (8.8g/l rather than 6.6g/l), yet the

pH is higher (3.05 rather than 2.97). The 2002 will probably outlive the

2004, but I prefer the latter’s purity and elegance. 17

Pinot Gris

Vinified in stainless steel and old oak foudre, the 2005 is fresh, sweet

(even for rS 10g/l), and supple, with some gently rich sousbois

aromas that need a couple of years to develop a spice-tinged

broadness. The 2008 will be much drier. 16

Gewurztraminer

Vinified exclusively in stainless steel. It is difficult to make a 13%

Gewurztraminer with just 3g/l of residual sugar, without ending up

with undue bitterness, but jean meyer managed to do so with the

2004, which is soft and succulent with lovely middle Eastern spices

starting to develop on the nose, and a tingly spice finish. 16

Artist Label series

Pinot Blanc Mise du Printemps

made from 70% Auxerrois and 30% Pinot Blanc, this wine is vinified

exclusively in stainless steel, and as its name suggests, it is ready to

drink from the spring following the harvest, though I prefer the taste

profile in summer and fall. The 2007 is dry (rS 4g/l), very fresh,

enhanced by a touch of residual gas, with the tasty, musky richness

of Auxerrois dominating the mid-palate and finish. 16

Riesling Le Kottabe

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, this riesling always needs at

least a couple of years bottle age following release and will age

gracefully for six years or more. Some years used to be rustic, such as

the 1999 (rS 3g/l), but this can be forgiven when it has such a rich,

honeyed-petrol aroma, with a complexing touch of coconut (17), and

more recent Kottabe vintages have gained finesse under the

biodynamic regime.

Pinot Gris Le Fromenteau

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, and usually dry or thereabouts,

the 2007 is, however, atypically overripe (13.7%, rS 10g/l), but that is

partly due to the year, and with such linear acidity, the clarity of the

fruit is so exceptional that I can forgive jean! 17.5. To taste the 2006

and be blown away by its elegance, purity, and length was so

astonishing that I could not believe my own reactions, especially

since the rot-infused 2006 is known as the year of the mushroom!

“What,” I asked jean, “is so different about the 2006?” and he told

me that it includes the Hengst, which he did not produce that year. It

tastes quite dry for 7g/l of residual sugar, and at 12.7% it is beautifully

balanced. 18

Gewurztraminer Les Folastries

Vinified exclusively in stainless steel, the emerging middle Eastern

spices and essential-oil aromas of the 2007 promise much, but this

vintage is again on the overripe side (14.5%, rS 14g/l), and this is

saved once more by an exquisite acidity that renders the wine

relatively dry, with an extremely elegant and pure expression of fruit

on the palate. Normally, this level of acidity (5.4g/l) would make the

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Sylvaner Rouge: this unusual variant is once again a permitted variety for blending, but Jean Meyer is determined to make a varietal wine as well

terpene-laden aromas of any Gewurztraminer too spiky, but in Alsace,

in josmeyer’s vineyards, in 2007, the wine is somehow naturally

balanced for the development of broad, spicy bottle aromas two or

three years down the road. 17. The 2004 is only just starting to show

its true potential. It is neither big nor overly sweet (13.4%, rS 7g/l) for

this variety; the fruit is rich and mellow with a very soft, gingerbread

spiciness and creamy aftertaste. What a fabulous bargain this will be

in another two or three years. 18. The 1994 is holding up well, with its

exotic, coconut-spice aromas and soft, gently rich fruit, but it is more

rustic than the Les Folastries josmeyer makes today. 16

Vins de Terroir

Gri-Gris

This melange of Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir

(vinified as white) is technically an AoC Pinot d’Alsace and was

launched with the 2005 vintage. The exact composition varies from

year to year, but Gri-Gris is always either a Pinot Gris-Auxerrois or an

Auxerrois-Pinot Gris-dominated blend. The name of this wine is a

play on the word gri-gri, which means “amulet,” and has its

etymological roots in France’s colonial past. It was dreamed up by

jean’s daughter Céline, who added an “s” as a nod to the Pinot Gris.

Gri-Gris is intended to be a contrast to josmeyer’s other blended

Alsace wine, Fleur de Lotus, which is Asian inspired and more exotic

with its Gewurztraminer component. Gri-Gris symbolizes Africa, the

most ancient roots of humanity, not merely in the heritage of its

name, but also in the wine, which, according to Céline, “possesses a

primitive character, very close to the earth.” The symbol on the label

was drawn in the earth by Isabelle, who also designed it. If you look

closely you will see that it is an amalgam of four letters representing

the grapes (A for Auxerrois, B for Blanc, G for Gris, and N for Noir)

enclosed in the circle of life. I think this works well enough on the

label, without extending the symbology to a “black stone” (it’s

actually bone) dangling around the neck of the bottle, which must

be very costly but does not enhance the value of this wine and must

cause havoc when applying the capsule. Although entry-level in

price, Gri-Gris is a lieu-dit wine and great value. Always vinified

in both stainless steel and old oak foudre, the 2007 is composed

of 45% Pinot Gris, 40% Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc, and 5% Pinot

Noir and is a much softer, less mineral wine than the inaugural

2005 vintage, with an off-dry taste, though there are only 3g of

residual sugar per liter. At the time of tasting, the 2007’s floral notes

were beginning to give way to some terpene aromas, presumably

from the Pinot Gris. 15

Pinot Noir Herrenweg

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre until 1999, after which this wine

has been vinified exclusively in demimuids (600 liters) that were

purchased new in 2000. Both before and after, josmeyer has

harvested its Pinot Noir in the sour-cherry-fruit spectrum, and the

quality has been better than most, but not special. This is one variety

I would like to see josmeyer harvest at a riper level, in the spectrum

of black cherries verging on red and black soft fruits, if the terroir is

capable. Work in progress.

Muscat Herrenweg

made from 50% muscat de Petit Grains Blanc, 40% muscat ottonel,

and 10% muscat de Petit Grains rosé, this wine is vinified in stainless

steel and is usually very dry, but the 2007 is yet again the exception.

The 2007 is not sweet (rS 6g/l), just lusciously rich, with surprising

high acids and a lovely floral aftertaste. Fine and linear. 17.5

Riesling Dragon

This wine comes from the southwest-facing slope of Letzenberg in a

sheltered area known locally as Petit Sénégal, which was previously

owned by Louis Grimmer, who would always prune here to keep

warm when it was very cold. Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre,

this riesling was formerly sold as riesling Herrenweg and has

benefited the most from jean meyer’s less reductive winemaking

style under the biodynamic regime. No vintage displays this better

than 2004, which is a classic, mature riesling that is rich yet elegant,

with great acidity and a lovely hint of petrol. Not completely dry

(rS 9g/l). 18.5

Prestige Selection

These wines have always been exclusively domaine-bottled and

come from some of josmeyer’s oldest vines, between 35 and 40

years of age.

Pinot Blanc Les Lutins

made from 100% Auxerrois, this wine traditionally came from various

plots in the Herrenweg de Wintzenheim, but Auxerrois can easily get

too fat in hot years, so to preserve freshness in the changing climate,

josmeyer planted the north-facing rotenberg, to the northeast of

the Hengst, and the results were so good that Les Lutins is now

produced entirely from the lieu-dit rotenberg. As jean meyer

explains: “For Auxerrois, what was best practice 30 years ago is no

longer right today.” This wine is vinified exclusively in old oak foudre.

The 2007 is fresh and easy drinking, with floral fruit and a kiss

of sweetness. The best vintages of Les Lutins from the Herrenweg

have seldom lasted longer than 2–3 years, and tasting back to 1989

confirms this—but perhaps the longevity of rotenberg might surprise

us in the future. 16

Muscat Les Fleurons

made from 50% muscat ottonel, 30% muscat de Petit Grains Blanc,

and 20% muscat de Petit Grains rosé, grown on various plots of the

same soil in the Herrenweg de Turckheim, this wine is vinified in

stainless steel and old oak foudre. There can sometimes be a touch

of sousbois in Les Fleurons (as in 2007, for example) that leaves me

better pleased with the purity of the muscat. 16

Riesling Les Pierrets

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, this has become one of the

most consistent, finest-quality dry rieslings in Alsace since 1997. The

2007 is already a lovely wine, with seductively fresh, delicious, citrus

riesling fruit of immediate finesse. 18.5. At the time of tasting,

josmeyer was commercializing three different vintages: the wonderful

2004, with hints of petrol on the nose and palate, which is elegantly

rich, with a lovely, crisp, vivacious finish, effectively dry (rS 6g/l) 19;

the extraordinary 2003, which is more exotic, building a honeyed

richness on the finish and is without doubt one of the best rieslings

produced in that hideously difficult drought year, helped no doubt

by the inclusion of Hengst and Brand 17.5; and the 2002, which is

decidedly dry, with lovely extract, just barely beginning to show its

petrol. 18. The 1997 is honeyed heaven (17.5), but older vintages are

progressively more rustic. Having said that, I did taste back to 1981,

which, although rustic, was finer than some younger vintages and

impressively pale in color, with rich fruit, good acids, and just 2g of

residual sugar per liter. 17

Pinot Gris “1854” Fondation

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, the 2004 is a perfect Pinot Gris,

with delicious fruit, lovely structure, and essentially dry (rS 5g/l), but

it obviously needs a couple of years. 19. The current vintage at the

time of tasting is 2002—another gorgeous wine, but one with a touch

of sweetness, though many biodynamic producers would regard its

residual sugar of 11g/l to be “naturally dry.” Ideal with foie gras. 18

Pinot Gris Cuvée du Centenaire

The precursor to the “1854” Fondation, the 1995 vintage of Cuvée du

Centenaire is absolutely à point, with the sugar (11g/l) melting into

the lightly spiced ginger and cinnamon fruit. 18. The 1988 is amazing

for its age: So fresh, lively, crisp, and clean, it’s stunning! 19

Gewurztraminer Les Archenets

A blend of Herrenweg de Wintzenheim, Herrenweg de Turckheim,

Pflanzer (Wettolsheim), and a tiny plot of grand cru Pfersigberg, this

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wine is vinified exclusively in stainless steel. The 2007 is the overripe,

sweet style I would prefer josmeyer not to produce. It might be due

more to the vintage than volition, and the result might be utterly

delicious and beautifully balanced, with amazing elegance and poise

for a 14.5% wine with 20g/l of residual sugar, but when am I going to

drink it? Very rarely. Would I want josmeyer to have fermented it dry

to 15.5%? No, that would be even worse. I would prefer the grapes to

have been harvested earlier. That said, I’m sure I’ll die before this wine

does. 18.5. The 2000 is wonderfully big and expressive, with broad

middle Eastern aromas, but comparatively sweet, and relatively

heavy on the palate. 16.5. The 1997 is quite sweet and showy, with

lots of cardamon-spice aromas, but starting to become a bit blowsy.

16. The 1990 is very soft, and blowsy, with exotically rich fruit that

tastes sweeter than its 5g/l of residual sugar. 16. once again, the 1988

demonstrates an amazing freshness, though its fine, spicy fruit tastes

quite sweet (no rS data). 16

Grands Crus

residual sugar is normally 4–6g/l with a min-max of 1.5–36g/l.

Pinot Noir Tête de Cuvée

This is from grand cru Brand, though not

classified as such because Pinot Noir is not

one of Alsace’s noble grand cru varieties.

This wine is vinified in 600-liter demimuids

purchased in 2000. It is richer and

more classic in its tannin structure than

the Pinot Noir Herrenweg, but both should

be harvested at a riper level, thus work

in progress.

Pinot Auxerrois “H” Vieilles Vignes

Another grand cru that cannot declare itself

due the ignobility of its grape variety, but

the “H” is enough of a giveaway. The quality

and versatility of this wine with food has

been long recognized by the top sommeliers

in some of the greatest restaurants in the

world, but for me the bar has been raised

significantly since 2000. If you want an

alternative to Chardonnay that is expressive

of its own terroir and does not try to imitate

Burgundy, then this classy Auxerrois should

fit the bill. Vinified exclusively in old oak

foudre and with just 4.4 g/l of residual sugar,

the 2007 is not, for once, oversweet, and at

13.8% it is far better structured than all those 14.5%-or-more wines

can possibly be. The exuberance of the 2007 vintage is, I am

delighted to say, restricted to the lovely freshness, richness, and

clarity of fruit, making this an Auxerrois of rare elegance and fine

potential complexity. 18.5. The 2005 is very similar (18.5), just richer

and more complex due to its two extra years in bottle, clearly

illustrating the difference between these vintages and those of the

1990s, which tended to trade too much freshness and finesse for

what they gained in bottle.

Riesling Grand Cru Brand

riesling is the most terroir expressive grape, and on josmeyer’s

Brand this grape produces elegantly rich wines that possess

exceptional acidity and develop very slowly in bottle for a hot site

with such deep, granitic soil. Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre,

the 2007 is a classic example of Brand, with stunning richness poised

on the knife edge of great acidity (TA 8.3g/l, pH 2.92). At just 12.5%,

I’m not sure there was any need to leave as much as 10g/l of residual

sugar, but with such extraordinary acidity and pH, it does taste quite

dry. 19. The deliciously fresh and youthful 1999 demonstrates the

Brand’s typically slow evolution. It’s just so young! 19. Even after 17

years, the 1991 is fresh and rich, tasting totally dry, despite 6g/l of

residual sugar. 18

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst

Like Brand, the Hengst produces wines of great longevity, but it is a

much cooler site, with colder calcareous-marl (14% active lime) soil,

and its wines are more mineral. They have great intensity but are less

overtly fruity. The Hengst truly excels in the hottest vintages yet

produces wines of extraordinary finesse in even the coldest years.

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, the 2007 is gorgeously fresh and

elegant, with richness on the finish. 19. The 2005 has a certain citrus

complexity, but the fruit is precocious and the balance not quite right,

rendering it more interesting than great. 16.5. The 2002 is ridiculously

young and still needs several years in bottle to hint at its potential. 19.

The 1999 is so lovely and fresh, it fairly dances on the tongue. This is so

young, with no hint of petrol or honey (yet), that it makes the 2002

seem old! A truly great riesling in the making. 19.5. The 1992 is so

delicious, fresh, and amazing (19) that I had to write “ultra-fresh” for

the 1991 (19)! Tasted in isolation, I am sure that the 1989 would be

greatly appreciated as a classic, mature, honeyed riesling of almost 20

years of age, but following two such exceptionally fresh wines of a

similar age, I feel I might have been too harsh in my score. 17.5. The

1975 is packed tight with acids and extraordinary for a 33-year-old

wine of just 12.3% (considered high in its day)

and a mere 1.5g/l of residual acidity. 18

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst Samain

Although this is not a Vendange Tardive,

most years it is more tardive than the majority

of officially designated Vendanges Tardives,

which are, paradoxically, picked relatively

early in the harvest, on a first sweep through

the vineyards searching out the ripest grapes.

Samain, however, is almost always picked

on St martin’s Day (the wine was originally

called Cuvée de la St martin), which is

November 11, and thus authentically late-

picked. The only exception I am aware of is

the 2006, which was picked on october 10

and was atypically sweet with 36g/l of

residual sugar. Samain is usually more of an

off-dry style, sometimes with just a kiss of

sweetness or, as in the case of the 2007 (rS

5.8g/l), drier than most of the so-called dry

wines in Alsace. The 2007 is one of the most

beautiful rieslings I have ever tasted, with

crystal-clear fruit and the most scintillating

of finishes (19.5), ranking with the 1991 as the

best Samain ever produced (but that vintage

was not part of this particular series of tastings).

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand

I seldom find any sousbois character in josmeyer’s Pinot Gris when

grown on either the Brand or Hengst, since the flavors are all on the

fruit side, well away from the earthiness and undergrowth that we have

been led to believe typify this variety. It is richness that dominates Pinot

Gris grown on the Brand, whereas elegance is the hallmark of Hengst

Pinot Gris. Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, the 2005 is not just

rich, but smooth and lush, with complex notes of spiced fruit starting to

build in the bottle. Not oversweet (rS 10g/l). 18.5. The 1999 has almost

the same weight in the mouth but has higher acidity and tastes drier

(rS 8g/l), deeper, and richer, with more complex bottle aromas. 18.5.

Strangely, the 1994 is richer and more complex, but not finer. 17

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst

Although more elegant than the Brand, josmeyer tends to make this

Pinot Gris decidedly sweet, which is a pity, since a dry Pinot Gris of

this quality from the Hengst would be so welcome at the table.

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre, the 2005 is predictably sweet

(rS 17g/l) but is richer and more luscious than I expected. 17.5. The

deliciously creamy-cinnamon fruit in the 2002 is not as sweet as its

19g/l of residual sugar would suggest, thanks to bags of acidity. 18.

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The most interesting, best preserved, old vintage of this wine is the

1986, which is distinctly toasty and tastes bone dry after the 31g/l of

residual sugar in the 2001 immediately preceding it. The 1986 might

lack finesse, but it was merely a good vintage, not a great one, and

the wine deserves recognition for its staying power. 16.5

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Brand

In contrast to Pinot Gris, it is the Brand that is the sweetest of

josmeyer’s two grands crus for Gewurztraminer, and the problem

with this variety and sweetness is that the more sugar present, the

longer it takes to build up the broad, spicy aromas. Vinified in

stainless steel and old oak foudre, the 2007 is too big, too rich, and

too sweet (15%, rS 19g/l) for this class of wine. 16. The 2004 is almost

as rich and sweet (rS 16g/l), but nowhere near as big. 17. The 2001 is

sweet (rS 14g/l), with a touch of creaminess from the spontaneous

malolactic that occurred that year. 16.5

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst

Vinified exclusively in old oak foudre. In 2007, the Hengst was—

unusually—as sweet and as alcoholic as the Brand (15%, rS 19g/l), with

significantly lower acidity (3.8g/l as opposed to 5.0g/l), yet the Hengst

is so beautiful, so harmonious, and promises the most amazing spice-

laden aromas in a few years. I just love it when the wine defies what’s

on paper! 19. The 2005 has a more reasonable alcohol level (13.7%), less

residual sugar (13g/l), and consequently it is much less extrovert, but

it has an admirably restrained complexity beginning to build on a

madagascan vanilla base. 19.5. And I adore the 1999, which has only

7g/l of residual sugar and lots of ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg really

building up on the mid-palate and finish. 19. But it is the 1993 that is my

idea of a perfectly mature Gewurztraminer. Coming from the Hengst,

with 13.1% of alcohol, 7g/l of residual sugar, and jean meyer at the helm,

the 1993 has always had the ideal provenance, build, and guiding hand

to produce the most elegant, dry, mature Gewurztraminer, and it has

not let me down. It is amazingly fresh. Spicy aromas are bottle aromas,

thus should by definition have a mellowing effect, yet this wine is so

spicy-fresh. This is all about elegance, finesse, and complexity. It is

probably the greatest 18-year-old Gewurztraminer I have ever tasted.

20. The 1991 is very good—astonishing for a totally dry Gewurztraminer

(rS 3g/l), but nowhere near the same class as the 1993. 18.5. The 1989

is a bit staid and rustic, but fresh for age and completely dry (rS 3g/l).

16. I think that litchi is overplayed for Gewurztraminer, but the 1985 is a

real litchi wine (rS 5g/l) 17.5. After 33 years and only 2 g/l of residual

sugar, the 1975 demonstrates today why it received one of the highest

scores ever in the Sigillé de Qualité awards. 18

Vendange Tardive (VT) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (SGN)

The josmeyer style of VT emphasizes elegance, with less alcohol and

less residual sugar than most. Even when there is a significant

sweetness on paper, the wines seldom taste as sweet as the numbers

would otherwise indicate. All of these wines have been vinified in old

oak foudre, unless specifically stated otherwise.

Riesling VT

The 1995 (harvested october 5, 12.2%, rS 28g/l, TA 9.5g/l) has great,

Hengst-like intensity, very long and linear, with great acidity. Thanks

to that 9.5g/l of razor-sharp acidity, it gives a laser-like intensity on

the finish that tastes nowhere near 28g/l of residual sugar. 19.5

Riesling Grand Cru Brand VT

Not as successful at this style as Hengst, Brand VT is seldom produced

by josmeyer. The stainless-steel fermented 1997 (harvested october

31, 11.3%, rS 39g/l, TA 7g/l) was too sweet, and I have to go back to

1990 (harvested october 26, 12.5%, rS 20.5g/l, TA 7.5g/l) to find a VT

of elegance that has developed well in bottle. 17

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst VT

I find the 2001 (harvested November 5–6, 11.4%, rS 67g/l, TA 5.9g/l,

pH 3.25) too sweet for a josmeyer VT, but not really sweet enough for

an SGN. 15. The 1995 (harvested october 13, 12.8%, rS 30g/l, TA 9.6g/

l) is, however, simply stunning, with such electrifying acidity that it

tastes almost dry and has the most delicate notes of petrol. I have

worked my way through a case of this wine, partnering it to perfection

with a tatin of cherry tomatoes, crème fraîche, and balsamic. 19.5

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand VT

The Brand is far better suited to Pinot Gris VT than to riesling VT,

and the 2002 (harvested october 22, 14%, rS 47g/l, TA 6.9g/l, pH

3.51) is beautifully balanced, boasting the most delicious, intense

fruit. Great minerality. 19.5

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst Exception

The 2000 (harvested october 5 & 16, 13.2%, rS 37g/l, TA 5.7g/l, pH

3.43) is not officially a Vendange Tardive, though it is Vendange

Tardive in style and is exceptional in quality, with fabulously exotic

fruit, and the spices only just beginning to build. Great intensity. 19

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst VT

The 1999 (harvested November 8 & 15, 12.9%, rS 58g/l, TA 6.1g/l) is

very sweet, and has such pure fruit that I wonder if the terpenes that

give Pinot Gris its honeyed-spice varietal character in bottle will ever

kick in. 17.5. The 1990 (harvested october 26, 12%, rS 54g, TA 6.1g/l)

has such amazingly fresh fruit. 18.5. The 2006 (harvested october 9

& 10, 13.6%, rS 74g/l, TA 4.9g/l, pH 3.89) is much too sweet for a

classic josmeyer VT. 17

Gewurztraminer VT

Thank goodness for the stunning 2000 (harvested october 10, 13%,

rS 52g/l, TA 5.8g/l, pH 3.63) because even I was beginning to fear

that it might look as if I was marking down wines purely and simply

because they had high sugar levels. But it all comes down to balance.

I am as impressed by great sweet wines as any other wine lover. I may

wonder when I will drink the dessert wine treasures in my own cellar,

but when I taste a great sweet wine it must be justly rewarded in my

scoring. It is the extraordinary intensity of exquisite varietal flavor

that balances the high sugar level in this wine and makes it so

outstanding, ensuring that it has great potential spice. 19

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst VT

Too many of these VTs are either too sweet or too heavy for josmeyer’s

elegant signature, and the 2001 is surprisingly past its sell-by date, yet

two of the oldest, driest vintages are alive and well. While it is true that

too many producers tried to vinify VTs too dry in the early to mid-

1980s, and that the 1985 (mid-october, 14.2%, rS 13g/l) would have

been an even better VT with, say, 20g/l of residual sugar, its big, long,

immense spice flavor remains impressive to this day. The 1983 (mid-

october, 13%, rS 3g/l) is not really a VT by any realistic standards, but

its deep, rich, intense flavor and powerful aromas of ginger, mint,

grapefruit, and nutmeg, demonstrate that truly dry Gewurztraminer

can stay at the top of its game for a quarter of a century or more. 18.5

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst SGN

Vinified exclusively in stainless steel, the 2000 (harvested october

16–21, 11.2%, rS 93g/l, TA 8g/l, pH 3.29) is the first and, so far, only

riesling SGN that jean meyer has made. Everyone knows that

riesling should be the most sublime of all SGNs, but I taste a good

number blind every year, and I am invariably disappointed. jean

reckoned this was the first vintage when everything came together

on the Hengst to produce something really special, and this incredibly

intense SGN has not let him down. The acidity looks very good on

paper, but tastes twice as wonderful in the wine. This is a true

exception to what should be Alsace’s dry wine rule. 19.5+

Pinot Gris SGN

The powerful 1989 (harvested November 8, 12.2%, rS 79g/l, TA 5.8g/l)

is the best Pinot Gris SGN that josmeyer has made. 18

Gewurztraminer SGN

And the rich, spicy, powerful 1989 (Harvested 10-13 November,

12.8%, rS 70g/l, TA 4.6g/l) is the best Gewurztraminer SGN that

josmeyer has made. 18.5 ·

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