Preamble: the Otto Group’s sustainability strategy 1 ...images.mytoys.com/mytoys/images/download/liefp... · Accessory suppliers (e.g. of buttons, zips, etc.) are also able to qualify

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Document no. Revision status Page

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Area of application/ Group:

Alba Moda, Apart International GmbH, Baur, Bon Prix, Heine, mytoys, baumarkt direkt, OTTO, Schwab, Sport Scheck, Witt,

Area of application/ process: Product definition Preliminary checks Checks

Previous document: Textile Guidelines Rev. 4, 11.2008

Created by: Mr Greive Checked by: Mr Rauer Released by: Öko-Routine Created on: 01.07.2009 Checked on: 02.07.2009 Released on: 03.07.2009

Textile Guidelines: Table of Contents Preamble: the Otto Group’s sustainability strategy

1. Application of the guidelines - affected product groups

2. Obligation to provide proof for non-Approved Eco Suppliers (non AES) 3. Qualifying for Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status

4. Brand suppliers and German suppliers

5. PURE WEAR articles

6. Cotton made in Africa

7. Requirement profiles for clothing textiles

8. Requirement profiles for textiles for home furnishings

9. Replacement of PVC by PU

10. Ruling on fur

11. Feathers

12. Antibacterial finishings

13. Additional information

14. Contacts APPENDIX: Overview of chemicals

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Textile guidelines Preamble The sustainability strategy of the Otto Group Sustainable assortments, i.e. ecologically optimised ones, are a key component for the Otto Group in the triad of ecological, economic and social sustainability. Here, particular attention is paid to toxicity thresholds, resource protection and health protection both of the producers as well as our customers. The assortments should be produced in a way that is as energy, water and material-efficient as possible. The ‘German Equipment and Product Safety Act’ from 1 May 2004 is an essential part of the foundation of our commercial activities. It states that “distributors as well as manufacturers must ensure and demonstrate that only defect-free and safe products are supplied to the market by implementing suitable measures.” All products put into circulation by members of the Otto Group must of course meet statutory requirements. The Otto Group goes further still with its requirements on assortments and has established so-called ‘eco-requirements’ in addition to the existing statutory requirements. These are closely aligned to the recognised and established Hohenstein Certificate (Eco-Tex Standard 100) and as a result several parameters even exceed statutory requirements. All products which meet the chemical and physical textile property requirements of the Otto Group are currently awarded the quality mark ‘Kind to your skin - tested for harmful substances’. This guarantees to customers that these textiles have successfully passed the Otto Group’s own test procedures and are free from substances that are harmful to health. Suppliers whose products regularly meet eco requirements in regular random checks are awarded ‘Approved Eco Supplier AES’ status and enjoy particular advantages: Point 2, the obligation to provide proof, does not apply to them. They are directly classified into the lower random-check procedure (see Point 7.4.1). As a result, less effort is required for checking. Furthermore, the supplier receives assistance with resolving any defects that arise during checking. From 2008, the requirement for ‘100% toxicity-tested textiles’ (tested for harmful substances) must be met by all German Otto Group subsidiaries. The Otto Group was one of the first textile companies to offer eco cotton to the mass market. The company is now building on this early-starter advantage with the PURE WEAR brand, which optimally blends high-quality raw material made from organically grown cotton with fashion.

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1. Application of the guidelines – affected product groups The Group’s decision in 2001 to use 100% toxicity-tested textile assortments (incl. textiles for home furnishings) for all German companies in the Otto Group also includes all textile accessories which are worn close to the skin, such as hats, scarves and gloves. These should meet eco material requirements, insofar as this is possible. This also applies to all cross-selling catalogues. Leather assortments such as leather clothing, shoes and leather accessories are excluded from this requirement for ‘100% toxicity-tested textile assortments’. The following regulation also apply to leather detailing as well as to sequins which are sown on for decorative purposes but which are not in direct contact with the skin: the base textile material is tested in accordance with guidelines ( see also Points 7 and 8), leather detailing and sequins are excluded from the tests. Furthermore, the following applies to textiles for home furnishings: hand-tufted, hand-woven and hand-knotted rugs as well as decorative accessories are not required to meet eco requirements. Product groups that are not required to meet the respective eco requirements must, however, at least meet statutory requirements as well as fulfil the criteria defined in the respective minimum requirements for materials. 1.1 Validity of the guidelines All procedures and guidelines described in this document will become mandatory after September 2007 for all German companies in the Otto Group.

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2. Obligation to provide proof for non-Approved Eco Suppliers (non AES)

• Per style one finished product has to be checked for the eco material requirements. The strongest/darkest colour must be checked if styles have multiple colours. This will be specified, depending on who deals with it, by either the offices/agencies or Buying/Quality Development.

• A test report for the eco material requirements may cover multiple styles from the

same raw material. The article numbers must be specified on the test report. In this case, accessories must be covered by an additional check.

• Test reports for the eco material requirements and the Öko-Tex Standard 100

certificates must be sent to Buying by the offices / agencies or suppliers along with the material description card. In markets which are authorised to award material description card (WBK) approval, the certificates may stay in the market, following explicit agreement from the Buying Area responsible. Hometex: the test sample for the eco material requirements and the Öko-Tex Standard 100 certificates or the test report from the article must be made available at the latest with the material description card (WBK).

3. Qualifying for Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status 3.1 Suppliers are able to achieve Approved Eco Supplier status through one of the following qualification methods:

a. As part of the testing concept to validate the assortment: Application of the laboratory testing concept described under Points 7/8 with a total of 10 consecutive ‘pass’ results. The initial and final tests should not be longer than 18 months ago.

b. Obligation to provide proof as part of product development:

10 tests using 10 different articles, which are offered by the supplier within the Group, must be initiated by the supplier. These must be tested in accordance with eco material requirements. All test results must have consecutive ‘pass’ results.

c. Obligation to provide proof through existing certificates:

• Presentation of an Eco-Tex Standard 100 certificate for the basic goods offered plus testing for the eco material requirements of a mandatory production sample which the supplier offers within the Group.

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• Presentation of all Eco-Tex Standard 100 certificates for the basic goods offered with the certificates for all individual components of the style (i.e. this also includes all component parts, linings, buttons, zips and threads).

Accessory suppliers (e.g. of buttons, zips, etc.) are also able to qualify for Approved Eco Supplier status:

a. 10 articles which represent the supplier’s assortment must be checked. In doing so, the various colour palettes must be taken into account along with the different models. The tests include the eco material requirements as well as the relevant functional tests. All test results must have consecutive ‘pass’ results.

b. Presentation of an Eco-Tex 100 certificate plus two article tests which represent the

supplier’s assortment. In doing so, the various colour palettes must be taken into account along with the different models. The tests include the eco material requirements as well as the relevant functional tests. All test results must have consecutive ‘pass’ results.

In so doing, the following always apply:

• Only thorough article tests for the eco material requirements with a ‘pass’ result are valid. Consequently, no tests are permitted on individual components of the article in order to qualify as an Approved Eco Supplier.

• SGS and Hansecontrol perform the tests for the eco material requirements to qualify as an Approved Eco Supplier (AES).

• Only Hansecontrol performs the tests for the eco material requirements for accessory suppliers to qualify as Approved Eco Suppliers (AES).

Mrs. Peter, Otto International, -5501, [email protected] is responsible for supplier accounts that are managed by either a foreign office or agency. Mr. Ulrich Greive, VV-CR, -6165, [email protected] is responsible for domestic German supplier accounts and those that are not managed by foreign offices or agencies.

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3.2 Appointment as an Approved Eco Supplier (AES) If the supplier has met the necessary qualification requirements by passing one of the procedures listed under Point 3.1 then they will be appointed an Approved Eco Supplier (AES). The supplier will then be included in the list of Approved Eco Suppliers (AES). This month is distributed once a month. Mr. Ulrich Greive, VV-CR, -6165, [email protected], is responsible for adding Approved Eco Suppliers (AES) to this list.

3.3 Issuing and extending an ECO CERTIFICATE By successfully qualifying to become an Approved Eco Supplier (AES), the supplier is awarded an ECO-CERTIFICATE. This certificate is valid for two years and is automatically extended with the agreement of Buying if there are no anomalies (no ‘fail’ results). 3.4 Withdrawal and regaining of Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status Only chemical ‘fails’ will lead to the withdrawal of Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status. With the first chemical fail, a written warning is issued to the supplier. Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status is finally withdrawn from the supplier if they score a test result with ‘fail’ again within a year after the first warning. After losing Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status, the supplier can only regain the same status if the supplier presents 10 consecutive tests with ‘pass’ results. If AES status is withdrawn for a second time from an Approved Eco Supplier,

• Each style must be tested in accordance with eco material requirements. The test report is to be submitted to Buying together with the goods description card (WBK).

• In addition to this, VV-CR (Mr. Greive) shall be given a copy of the test results from

the office.

• The test results will be monitored for six months. Following that, Eco Routine (Öko-Routine) will then decide from what date the supplier should regain Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status in the event of positive test statistics.

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Only the following test labs are permitted to test for compliance with eco material requirements:

• Hansecontrol • SGS • Texanlab (Indien)

Tests performed by any other test lab will not be accepted. If an Approved Eco Supplier (AES) with a ‘fail’ result is tested and that ‘fail’ was caused by one of the eco components suppliers named by us then the market will report this component supplier to Mrs. Peter, Otto International. Proof is to be provided by the supplier that an eco article was purchased here. After submission of the proof, the complaint against the components supplier is logged and AES status is withdrawn. Following that, the components supplier is contacted and they must then pass at least three tests with ‘pass’ results in accordance with eco material requirements. Mr. Ulrich Greive, VV-CR, -6165, [email protected], is responsible for issuing and extending the ECO CERTIFICATE.

4. Brand suppliers and German suppliers Brand suppliers and German suppliers are not checked using the LabQ system (random check procedure). Existing product liability requirements require these suppliers to conduct an independent product safety test on their goods. Runner articles are an exception to this. In principle, they can be redirected for checking. Buying will inform the supplier on which articles are to be tested.

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5. PURE WEAR articles

General guidelines

• Only Control Union (in the past SKAL)-certified organically grown cotton is permitted as a raw material (other certificates are permissible with the agreement of VV-CR, Mr. Rauer, -7550)

• Blends with the following yarn types are permitted if it can be guaranteed that they contain at least 50% organic cotton:

- modal - lyocell - elastane - linen - silk - pure new wool - viscose

The use of conventionally grown cotton is not permitted.

• The supplier must be able to produce a valid BSCI test report showing a ‘good’ result.

Laboratory test procedure • PURE WEAR textiles are subject to their own requirements profile.

• The environmental designation ‘2’ (= PURE WEAR) must be entered absolute in the

buying system for all PURE WEAR textiles.

• Once the article is accepted, a check is performed according to PURE WEAR parameters on goods from the first production slot by SGS laboratories in Asian markets, including Turkey, or by Hansecontrol for German suppliers in Europe and Brazil. This initial test is not triggered by LabQ; rather, it must be agreed by Buying or Quality Development directly with the supplier.

• The documented test results must then be presented to the Buying department

following that.

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• QA suppliers (‘Quality Assured Suppliers’, with a random check level of either 1% or 0.2%) or Approved Eco Suppliers (AES) are not required to undergo the initial test. The standard random check procedure applies to these suppliers. Here, a check is carried out according to the PURE WEAR requirements profile.

• Test costs must be borne by the supplier. A check for compliance with PURE WEAR

requirements profile costs €501,- (net). Price valid on the date this document was released. Current pricing can be obtained from Hansecontrol or SGS.

Track & Trace procedure • The supplier must contractually ensure that they have taken into consideration the

separate blending of yarns on their product. The supplier must, if necessary, pass these on to their own supply chain in the form of contracts. It is the responsibility of the supplier to set up and agree contracts with their yarn/material suppliers. The supplier is only responsible towards the OTTO Group.

• The supplier must also prove that they have purchased the correct amount of

yarn/fabrics which correspond to the amount of textiles ordered. This can be demonstrated by faxing of the invoice of the yarn/fabric supplier to the service provider: Direction Software Solutions, Attn. Supplier [Purewear] Laxmikant, Fax: +91-22-24911046 or by e-mail to [email protected]

• The spinner must ensure that they have purchased the correct amount of certified

organic cotton which corresponds to the amount of yarn purchased. This can also be confirmed/proved by faxing the invoice AND the organic cotton certificate (e.g. SKAL certificate) to the following office: Direction Software Solutions, Attn. Spinner [Purewear] , Laxmikant, Fax: +91-22-24911046 or by e-mail to [email protected]

• Neither the supplier nor another member of the textile chain may enter data into the system. Everything is carried out by sending a fax to the service provider.

The detailed regulations relating to PURE WEAR material requirements can be found in document number 01-20161 at www.ottogroupb2b.com.

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6. Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) 6.1 Aim of the project The aim of the CmiA project is to create a strong demand pull-in for sustainably produced cotton from Africa. Demand for CmiA forces the implementation of cotton production that is ecological, economical and more socially acceptable. As the mass market does not accept top prices, cotton production should be improved without causing a significant increase in prices as a result. The project is supported by the Aid By Trade Foundation which believes in sustainable project assistance through trade and development and which gives contributions to help tackle poverty and promote environmental protection in developing countries.

6.1 Communication and labelling of CmiA CmiA products are labelled using a hangtag and a woven label. Both were conceived by the AID BY TRADE FOUNDATION. The hangtag tells customers about the project and is available in German, English and French. Corinna Simmel Brand Management / EK-BM Tel: + 49 (0)40 6461 6386 6.2 Ordering and distribution procedures for CmiA cotton

• The mandatory proportion of CmiA in relation to the overall cotton used in a yarn is 75%.

• The supplier of CmiA textiles is checked by an ILO-compliant standards organisation such as SA8000, BCSI or FLA.

6.3 Track and Trace The CmiA project requires a high level of transparency in the value chain in order to ensure a safe flow of cotton from the field right through to OTTO. To achieve this, a Track and Trace module has been set up. This module requires a minimum of data entry effort and the task of entering data itself is taken over by an external service provider. This means that no companies in the chain need to perform any additional work steps.

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Some data, however, must be requested from the suppliers:

- Preamble: The supplier must not change its supply chains. CmiA yarns can be purchased from practically any spinnery. If desired, the Aid by Trade Foundation will provide information on spinneries that already work with Project cotton and that have gained the necessary experience as a result.

- When fabrics are purchased (no yarns) then it must be guaranteed that the fabric was also made from Project cotton (in addition to that the name of the spinnery must be disclosed).

- The name ‘Cotton made in Africa’ must be explicitly mentioned on export documentation (invoice, pack list, etc.).

- The actual net weight of the goods (not per m²) must be noted on the export documentation.

6.4 How to procure CmiA CmiA cotton can be procured through the project partner Dunavant SA (Geneva) or Paul Reinhart (Winterthur).

CmiA cotton from Zambia & Benin CmiA cotton from Burkina Faso & Benin Dunavant SA Geneva Paul Reinhart S.A. Mr. David Cavalleri Mr. André Paratte 10, Route de L’Aéroport Technikumstrasse 82 CH-1215 Geneva 15 /Switzerland Postfach 2259 CH-8401 Winterthur/Switzerland Tel: +41 (0)22 929 81 00 Tel: +41 (0)52 264 8221 Fax: +41 (0)22 929 81 50/52 Fax: +41 (0)52 212 00 55 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

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6.5 Project contacts AID BY TRADE FOUNDATION Wandsbeker Str. 3-7 22172 Hamburg Germany [email protected] +49 (0)40 - 6461 5608 www.cottonmadeinafrica.com Procurement + Production: Herr Christian Barthel Tel.: +90 (0)212 697 68 00 oder in Shanghai Tel.: +86(0) 216165-2757 E-Mail: [email protected]

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7. Requirement profiles for clothing textiles (excluding shoes) 7.1. Statutory requirements By taking “suitable measures”, manufacturers and distributors must ensure and demonstrate that they only supply products that are safe and free from defects. These requirements must be complied with in accordance with the German Equipment and Product Safety Act (GPSG) from 1 May 2004. Additionally, the Otto Group provides proof as required by performing systematic random checks on textile assortments including shoes. Test packages Legal Parameter

and

Eco Cr (IV) (leather) Statutory parameter AND ... Azo incl. PAAB pH valuePCP MetalsCadmium in synthetic materials TBT, DBT, MBTNickel in accessories FormaldehydeAllergenic dispersion dyes

Phenols, chlorophenols

Chlorinated organic carrier Phthalates (direct skin contact, baby) Carcinogenic dyes and pigments And physical textile parameters in

accordance with OTTO minimum requirements on materials

• For shoes and leather articles there are no Eco-parameters

The detailed descriptions of statutory requirements can be found in document number 01-20170 at www.ottogroupb2b.com.

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7.2 Laboratory testing concept (clothing textiles) In fulfilling its statutory requirements, the Otto Group carries out systematic random checks to demonstrate the necessary level of safety of all textile-based clothing assortments. In addition to this, the eco parameters that are self-imposed by the Otto Group are checked. These eco parameters are closely aligned to the recognised Eco-Tex Standard 100 test and thus exceed statutory requirements with regard to several key parameters. In case an article is fail and needs to be re-tested, this new test needs to be done for the complete article for the eco material requirements. There are no tests permitted on individual components of an article. 7.3 Evaluation periods Evaluation periods are 01 Oct. - 31 March and 01 April - 30 Sept. 7.4 Test procedures The requirements are checked as part of the laboratory concept by carrying out random checks and bestseller checks. 7.4.1 Random checks test 5% random checks is supplier-dependent (all consignments from a supplier based on

contracts and article numbers) - Evaluation period is 6 months

- Minimum of 1 test - maximum of 10 tests (if all tests have been awarded with a ‘pass’)

- Tests are carried out independent of quantity / consignment 1% random checks is supplier-dependent (all consignments from a supplier based on


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If the supplier performs well then the supplier is classified into the 1% random check level for the next evaluation period, i.e.

- 10 consecutive test passes necessary with ‘pass’ results. - If qualifying for Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status ( see Point 3.1) the

supplier is classified into the 1% base random check level. - Minimum 1 test – Maximum 10 tests (if all tests are pass) - Tests regardless of quantity / shipment - Suppliers in 1% random check are called “QA supplier” (QA=quality

assured) If a test is not passed (=fail) then the supplier is immediately reclassified back to the 5% random check level. This also applies to Approved Eco Suppliers (AES). Buying must be informed by the market or agency if a test is failed. 7.4.2 Runner check

- 1 test in the evaluation period of the initial order or reorder (the inspection order for the runner article is released by the next written order in LabQ)

- Following this, part of the 1% or 5% random check procedure - Runner articles are recorded by Buying in LabQ - Office/agency informs the suppliers - Buying reports runner articles directly to the supplier if the supplier account

is not managed by an Otto International office or agency

The detailed regulations relating on random checks and runner checks can be found in document number 02-20291 at www.ottogroupb2b.com. 7.5 Costs Test costs must be borne by the supplier. A check for compliance with Textile eco material requirements costs €401,- (net). Price valid on the date this document was released. Current pricing can be obtained from Hansecontrol or SGS.

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8. Requirement profiles for textiles for home furnishings 8.1. Statutory requirements Since May 2004 manufacturers and distributors have been obliged to ensure compliance with the regulations of the German Equipment and Product Safety Act (GPSG). Consequently, “suitable measures” must be taken in order to ensure and to maintain that only products which are safe and free from defects are supplied. The Group’s decision in 2001 only to incorporate toxicity-tested textile assortment segments into the assortment also applies to textiles for home furnishings. (Exception see 1. – Affected product groups: hand-tufted, hand-woven and hand-knotted rugs as well as decorative accessories which are only tested according to statutory requirements) The supplier has to present tests for all new articles by SGS or Hansecontrol, which confirm that he complies with the test parameters for Otto Group articles listed below. Exceptions can only be made for AES-suppliers (approved eco suppliers) and suppliers who have an Öko-Tex 100 certificate respective a GUT-certificate for carpets. Additionally, the Otto Group provides proof as required by performing systematic random checks on house and home textiles. Test packages According to product type the following parameters are to be checked: Parameter Textiles/

NaturalTextiles/ Synthetic

Leather Access. Carpets/ Nature

Carpets/ Synthetic

PCP X X X AZO +PAAB X X X X X Chromium VI X Formaldehyde Disp. dyes X X Organic chlorine carriers

X X

Cadmium X(PVC) X(PVC) X(PVC) X(PVC) Nickel release X

The detailed descriptions of statutory requirements relating to textiles for home furnishings can be found in document number 01-20170 at www.ottogroupb2b.com.

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8.2. Test parameters for eco material requirements In order to demonstrate compliance with eco material requirements, all textiles for home furnishings must be checked according to the parameters mentioned below if proof of Eco-Tex Standard 100 certification or GOOD certification for rugs cannot be produced. If no certificate exists then a sample from the supplier is sent to Hansecontrol or one of the SGS laboratories for chargeable analysis. It is mandatory for the supplier to provide this quality sample. In case an article is fail and needs to be re-tested, this new test needs to be done for the complete article for the eco material requirements. There are no tests permitted on individual components of an article. Statutory requirements continue to apply to hand-tufted, hand-woven and hand-knotted rugs as well as to decorative accessories. Test parameters House and Home textile carpets Formaldehyde X X (fumigation) pH value X Metals X X Pesticides (only applies to carpets made from natural fibres or containing > 50% wool)

X

Phenols/chlorophenols X X Forbidden Azo dye stuffs X X Allergic dispersion dyes X X Carcinogenic dispersion dyes X Chlorinated organic carrier X X Biocide finish X Flame retardant finish X Organic tin compounds (TBT,DBT,MBT)

X

Moth repellent X Phthalates (direct skin contact, baby) X Volatile organic substances X (emission test) Vulcaniziation accelerator (foam back carpets)

X

8.3 Evaluation periods Evaluation periods are 01 Oct. - 31 March and 01 April - 30 Sept.

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8.4 Test procedures Hansecontrol must be notified of new suppliers of textiles for home furnishings by the office/agency so that these suppliers can be classified into the correct random check level in LabQ. 8.4.1 Random check test 1% random check is supplier-dependent (all consignments from a supplier based on


- 10 consecutive test passes necessary with ‘pass’ results - Tests are carried out independent of quantity / consignment

0.2% random check is supplier-dependent (all consignments from a supplier based on


If the supplier performs well then the supplier is classified into the random check level of 0.2% for the following period, i.e.

- 10 consecutive test passes necessary with ‘pass’ results - If qualifying for Approved Eco Supplier (AES) status ( see Point 3.1)

then the supplier is classified into the base random check level of 0.2% as well as upon presentation of a Eco-Tex Standard 100 certificate see also Point 8)

- Maximum 10 tests (if all tests are pass) - Tests regardless of quantity / shipment - Suppliers in 1% random check are called “QA supplier” (QA=quality

assured) If a test is not passed (=fail) then the supplier is immediately reclassified back to the 1% random check level. This also applies to AES suppliers and suppliers with Eco-Tex Standard 100 certification. Buying must be informed if a test is failed. 8.4.2 Runner check

- 1 test must take place within the evaluation period for runner articles - Runner articles are recorded by Buying (for articles > 10.000 pcs) in LabQ - Office/agency informs the suppliers - Supplier accounts that are not managed by an office/agency are informed

by Buying - Runner articles that are not managed by an office/agency are recorded by

Buying

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The detailed regulations relating to random checks and runner checks can be found in document number 02-20292 at www.ottogroupb2b.com. 8.5 Costs Test costs must be borne by the supplier. A check for eco textile material requirements for textiles costs € 401,- (net) and a check for tested on harmful substances carpets costs € 501,- (net) Prices valid on the date this document was released. Current pricing can be obtained from Hansecontrol or SGS.

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9. Replacement of PVC by PU or other suitable materials The widely used synthetic material PVC can cause huge environmental problems both in its production, use and disposal (burning): this can result in poisonous and carcinogenic substances being released into the environment. Polyurethane (PU) is made from synthetic polymers. PU can be used in many applications including backings for rugs, corsetry and sports clothing. Since July 2004, all clothing textile areas have only been permitted to use PU products, i.e. the products must be coated with PU based on water-based technology. Specific exceptions:

- In the case of ladies’ apparel, menswear and sports clothing, a PU coating can be used on a solvent basis with approved production techniques.

- Sequins – PVC is permitted here. - Textiles for home furnishings – exceptions for durable goods as well as for the use of synthetic leather apply here. - Shoes, if a suitable replacement material cannot be offered

Detailed information and regulations relating to PVC can be found in document number 01-20231 at www.ottogroupb2b.com. The Otto Group reserves the right to approve the use of other materials.

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10. Ruling on fur The use of real fur is forbidden. There is an exception for animal skin and coat products from: - Cows - Pigs - Goats - Sheep as these accumulate as ‘by-products’ of food processing. Since it is also not possible to rear fur rabbits in appropriate conditions, the use of rabbit fur and angora wool is not permitted. Neither is the use of snakeskin permitted.

The detailed regulations on the fur ruling can be found in document number 01- 20290 at www.ottogroupb2b.com.

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11. Feathers Only feathers and downs may be used from birds which have been appropriately reared and which are further processed for food purposes, as this excludes the risk of live-plucking. The feathers and downs must be degreased before subsequent processing. The following applies to ostrich feathers: the feathers of animals which are only reared for their feathers and skins may not be used, as these ostrich feathers are obtained in a manner (live-plucking) which is not acceptable from an animal protection perspective. Furthermore, any sort of trade in feathers of threatened species of ostrich is forbidden. The ostrich populations of Algeria, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, The Central African Republic of Chad, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal and Sudan count among these critical species. 12. Antibacterial finishings Clothing textiles from the areas of ladies’ apparel, menswear, children’s wear and sport may not be coated with ‘antibacterial finishings’ (biocide finishing).

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13. Additional information The respective individual documents, which can be viewed at www.ottogroupb2b.com with the following document numbers, apply in their current version. a. List of banned substances, document number: 01-20041 b. Eco textile material requirements for textiles, document number: 01-20170 c. Eco material requirements textiles for garments “PUREWEAR” document number: 01-20161 d. Material minimum requirements for textiles, document number: 01-20164 e. Material minimum requirements for house and home textiles document number: 01-20243 f. Material minimum requirements for zip closures, document number: 01-20244 g. Material minimum requirement for accessories, document number: 01-20268 The current versions of these guidelines can be found at www.ottogroupb2b.com under document number 01-20302. 12. Contacts Department Name Tel. no. E-mail Corporate Responsibility

Felix Rauer Ulrich Greive

+ 49(0)40 6461-7550 + 49(0)40-6461-6165

[email protected] [email protected]

Textile Laboratory

Dr. Siegfried Schwarzer

+49-(0)40-6461-7310 siegfried.schwarzer@ hansecontrol.de

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Appendix: Overview of chemicals a. Formaldehyde According to the Hazardous Substances Directive, only textiles containing more than 1,500 mg/kg of free formaldehyde must be marked as such under law. No statutory regulations exist with regard to the formaldehyde content for leather and leather clothing. Formaldehyde is used among other things for the production of synthetic materials and synthetic tannins, as a fibre protection agent for wool, in textile finishing/trimming for permanent-press finishing of rayon and viscose and for water and washability improvement of some direct dyes. Formaldehyde irritates the eyes and the respiratory tract and is suspected of having a carcinogenic effect. b. pH value The pH value indicates the reverse base 10 logarithm of the hydrogen proton (H+) concentration (mol/L). That means that the lower the ph value (1-7), the higher the concentration of acidifiers whereas the higher the value, when higher than pH 7, the lower the concentration of H+ ions, therefore meaning that this lies within the alkaline range. The pH value for textiles should be between 4.0 and 7.5 (for clothing in close contact with the skin and babies’/children’s clothing) and 4.0 and 9.0 (for clothing that isn’t in close contact with the skin). Non-compliance with the pH value can cause skin irritation. In textile production, different application stages such as dyeing, pressing, bleaching and washing can lead to pH value problems. The pH value can be neutralised by specific rinsing after dyeing and finishing. c. Metals Cadmium The use of cadmium and cadmium compounds as a dye or stabiliser in synthetic fibres and materials is banned. A limit of 100 mg/kg generally applies. Packaging materials, clothing, accessories and synthetic leather fall under this ruling. This is governed in the German Control of Chemical Products Act. The use of cadmium can be easily be dispensed with for textiles. For polymers, cadmium can be substituted by using other substances such as zinc, for instance.

Specification


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Chromium VI A statutory limit of 3mg/kg has been in place since January 2006 across the EU for glove leather and has been used since then by the investigation agencies of the German Federal States on virtually all leather goods which are in direct contact with the skin (particularly shoes). The limit of 3mg/kg for chromium (VI) is the detection limit of current test methods. Because of its high toxicity, no traces of chromium (VI) must therefore be detectable. Chromium is predominantly used as an oxidising agent for dyeing using sulphur and vat dyes and for after-chroming of mordant dyes for wool. Chromium is often used as a tannin for leather goods. Residues of hexavalent chromium compounds can develop, for example, as a result of improper tanning or handling of chromium-tanned leather as well as through impurities of the tanning agent. Nickel The majority of nickel production goes into the finishing of steel products (also for the production of jewellery). In addition to this, many accessories contain nickel, such as buttons, zip closures, buckles and rivets etc. Nickel is suspected of having a carcinogenic effect on people. It can have a sensitising effect as a contact allergen and can trigger dermatitis. d. Pesticides Agents to tackle pest problems are classified as pesticides. Agents to protect plants represent only a subsection of pesticides. Since the threat of a pest infestation is particularly high for cotton plants, these are sprayed with pesticides whilst they are growing. Wool production is also linked with the use of pesticides as animals must be protected against parasites. Pesticides from textiles can be absorbed through the skin and orally through sucking on the clothing (small children). Depending on the dosage, various symptoms of poisoning can appear such as a headache, nausea, dizziness, and vomiting up to and including fatal illness for some pesticides. In the long term, many pesticides may have a carcinogenic and/or mutagenic effect. e. Phenols/chlorophenols Phenols are used as an algaecide (against algae), fungicide and as a disinfecting and preserving agent. They are poisonous if they enter the body through inhalation or absorption through skin contact. In Germany there is a ban on commercial production of phenols as well as on putting substances, preparations and products containing more than 5mg/kg into circulation.

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f. Azo dyes Azo dyes are used in a variety of ways to dye textiles and leather. Azo dyes, which could release certain amines under certain conditions, are banned under German law. The use of banned azo dyes during production or handling will be regarded as proven if the dyed specimen or a part of it releases certain amines under the conditions of the above-mentioned process and the detected content of an individual amine is more than 30mg/kg. The content relates to dyed sections of a specimen all with the same composition. Azo dyes which have been banned are classified as being carcinogenic and allergenic. g. Organic chlorine carriers Carriers are organic solvents made from various substance classes which are used as an aid when dyeing textile polyester fibres with dispersion dyes. Generally, the term is understood to mean the organic chlorine carriers chlorotoluene and chlorobenzene. Chlorotoluene and chlorobenzene have a mild skin irritating effect. The organ-specific toxic effects predominantly affect the liver, kidneys and adrenal glands. On the whole, gene-toxicity is negative. h. Biocide finishing ‘Biocide’ is a general term for chemicals which are used to kill living organisms. In the textile industry, a biocide finishing is used to produce antibacterial textiles, for example. i. Flame retardants These chemicals are not only used to prevent textiles catching fire: they can also be used to slow down the spread of flames. Toxicity-tested textiles may not include this finishing due to the toxicity of fireproof chemicals. Flame-proofing of clothing textiles with environmentally relevant materials is in principle not permitted in Germany. Textiles for restaurants (curtains, seat covers for stools or benches) are exempted from this. j. Organic tin compounds Organic tin compounds are a group of the most toxic chemicals that man has knowingly put into circulation. The compounds are toxic when touched by the skin and when swallowed. This can lead to damage being caused to the endocrine (hormonal) and nervous systems. k. Allergenic dispersion dyes Dispersion dyes are used to dye synthetic fibres. Eight allergenic dyes from this group of dispersion dyes are banned in the EU and several others should not be used due to a strong suspicion of their allergenic properties. It is important to carry out this check on articles made from synthetic fibres and from blends consisting of synthetic fibres.

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l. Carcinogenic dyes and pigments These dyes are used to dye synthetic fibres. These have been proven to be carcinogenic and should therefore not be used. m. Phthalates Phthalate esters or phthalates are used to plasticize synthetic materials. Six phthalates (DINP, DNOP, DEHP, DIDP, BBP, DBP) are classified as being harmful to health and should not be used in coated articles, Platisol prints, flexible foams or plastic accessories.

For more information please see the list of banned substances, at www.ottogroupb2b.com under document number 01-20041.

Documents

Preamble: the Otto Group’s sustainability strategy 1 ...images.mytoys.com/mytoys/images/download/liefp... · Accessory suppliers (e.g. of buttons, zips, etc.) are also able to qualify