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KEY ISSUES:

● HowdopoorpeopleinSouthAfrica

feedthemselves–whatfooddotheyget,howandwheredotheyaccessit?

● Whatinfluencesthechoicespoorpeoplemakeintermsoffoodpreference,accessandconsumption?

● HowdoestheriseofBigFoodaffect

thesefoodways?

● Whatarethehealthimpactsofthesefoodways?

● Howaretheprovisioningstrategies

ofthepoorshapingfoodeconomiesfromretailtoproduction?

POLICY BRIEF 48 Florian Kroll

FOODWAYS OF THE POOR IN SOUTH AFRICA: HOW POOR PEOPLE GET FOOD, WHAT THEY EAT, AND HOW THIS SHAPES OUR FOOD SYSTEM

BACKGROUND

Foodwaysarethesetofstrategiesshapingwhatfoodpeoplechooseaswellashowandwheretheyaccessandconsumeit.Informedbycultureandsocialcontext,thefoodwaysofthepoorsimultaneouslyrespondtoandinfluencefoodsystemschange.SouthAfricanfoodsystemsareinaprocessofchange.Thesechangesarecausedbymanyfactors,includingurbanisation,consolidationandconcentrationinfoodvaluechains,andchangingdietarypatterns.Thesetransitionshaveimportantconsequencesforthenatureofpovertyandfoodinsecurity.However,poorpeoplearenotsimplypassivevictimsoffoodsystemstransition.Theymakeconcreteanddeliberatedecisionsaboutwhatfoodstheyeat,wheretheygetthefoodtheywantandneed,andhowtodealwiththedifficultiesthisinvolves.Thesestrategiesareoftencomplexandareinformedbylocalknowledge,culturalpreference,economicconsiderationsandmanyotherfactors.Inadditiontorespondingtopriceandconvenience,foodwaysexpresspeoples'aspirations,theirsenseofidentityandbelonging.Thesefoodwaysplayaroleininfluencingthestrategiesof‘BigFood’-powerfulfoodcorporationswhicharetransformingfoodenvironments.Thisisparticularlyimportantbecausethefoodwaysofthepoorandthevaluestheyexpresscanpromotenon-communicablediseasesandundermineimmunity.Whiletheyembodyrationaland

understandableresponsestopoverty,theycanalsoentrenchprocessesofimpoverishmentandpoor

health.ThispolicybriefexplorestheselinksbetweenthefoodwaysofthepoorandfoodsystemtransitioninSouthAfrica.

SUPPORTED BY

Faculty of Economic and Management Sciences

www.plaas.org.za | Email: info@plaas.org.za

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FOOD INSECURITY, POVERTY AND FOODWAYS

Everyday,thepoorinSouthAfricafacethechallengeofnourishingthemselvesinthecontextofrapidurbanisation,unemployment,stagnatingincomesandsteepfoodpriceincreases.Theyadoptvariousstrategiestomakeendsmeet.Theseincludereducingthequalityandquantityoffood,andchoosingtoconsumecheap,energy-densefoods(pap,bread,sugarydrinksandsnacks),thatareeasilyaccessiblebutnutritionallypoor.Thiscontributestowardsthetripleburdenofmalnutrition–thesimultaneousexistenceofhunger,obesity,andmicronutrientdeficiency.Tocopewiththethreatofimmediatehunger,poorSouthAfricansthereforemakechoicesthaterodetheirlong-termhealth,employmentanddevelopmentprospects.Thecostoftreatingdiet-relatedillnessiscompoundedbyalossofearningsandassetswhichcantraphouseholdsinpoverty.Inadditiontothepersonalsufferingthisentails,ithassevereimplicationsforpublichealthcareandtheeconomyalikewithhealthcostsandproductivitylossesamountingtobillionseachyear.Effectivepolicyresponsesarehinderedbyblurrednotionsofpovertyandfoodinsecurity.Officialpovertystatisticsarebasedonanincomepovertylinederivedfromthecostofastandardfoodbasket.Thebasketiscalculatedfromconsumptiondata.Thisisproblematicbecauseitassumesthatthesefoodsareavailableandaccessiblethroughoutthecountryatsimilarpriceswithouttakingintoaccountthemanydifferentwayspoorpeopleaccessfood.Inaddition,thisfoodbasketisenergy-denseandmicro-nutrientdeficient.Accordingly,manypeoplearenotofficiallyregardedaspoorwheninrealitytheirincomeenablesaccesstoabasketoffoodthatmayprovidebarelyenoughcalories,butunderminestheirhealthinthelongterm.Suchpovertylinesthusunder-estimatepovertyandfoodinsecurity,limitingtheattentionandresourcesdirectedtowardspovertyrelief.

Withoutaddressingstructuralpovertywhichmakeshealthyoptionssimplyunaffordableformost,healtheducationinitiativesexhortingthepoortoadopthealthierlifestylesaremisdirected.Accesstofoodisinfluencednotonlybymoney,butalsobygeography.Multidimensionalandspatialmeasuresofdeprivationshowthatthedepthandexperienceofpovertyandfoodinsecurityvaryspatially,andthatpovertyisparticularlysevereinformerhomelandareasandindenseinformalsettlementsaroundcities.LongitudinalstudiesrevealthatalargeproportionofSouthAfrica'spoorcycleinandoutofpovertyandhunger.Thismeansthattheyareparticularlyvulnerabletopriceincreasesandincomelosses.However,thepoorarenothelplessvictims.Innegotiatingoftenhostilefoodenvironments,poorpeopleactivelyleverageknowledge,socialnetworksandmeagrecashresourcesinwaysthatshapelocalfoodenvironmentsandinfluencethewiderfoodsystem.Topromotesustainableandjustfoodsystemsgovernance,policymakers,changeagentsandresearchersneedtounderstandthesefoodwaysaswellasthevalues,identitiesandaspirationstheyexpress.Itisthereforeimportanttounderstandnotonlyhowpoorpeopleindifferentsettingschangetheirfoodwaystoadapttoshocksaswellastothespecificconstraintsoftheirdifferentfoodenvironments,butalsohowthesefoodwaysinfluencethefoodsystem.Household purchasing and consumption Whatfoodpoorhouseholdsarebuyingandeatingemergesfromareviewofexpenditure(StatisticsSA)anddietarydiversitydata(SASAS;SANHANES;AFSUN).Althoughmaizeandbreadareessential,high-energystaplefoodsofthepoor,sugarandsweetsaswellassoftdrinksarealsoprevalent.Despitepoverty,expenditureonmeatisconspicuouslyhighandincreasesfornon-poorhouseholds.Whenpeoplemanagetoescapepoverty,dairyintakeissignificantlyincreased.Bycontrast,the

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poorconsumealimitedrangeandquantityoffruit,legumes,nutsandeggs,eventhoughtheserepresentaffordableandhealthyalternativesprovidingessentialmicro-nutrientsandproteins.Thisdietaryprofiledrivestheriseinobesity,hypertension,diabetesandheartdiseasealongsidecompromisedimmunitytoinfectiousillness. Strategies employed by the poor to source food Foodsourcingstrategiesofthepoorarediverseandrelyheavilyontheinformalmarket.Althoughmostpoorpeoplerelyonoccasionalvisitstosupermarketstosourcebulkfoodscheaply,mostrelyontheinformalfoodtradefortheirmorefrequentprovisioning.Theconsumptionofstreetfoodslike“kota”,“vetkoek”,chipsand“walkie-talkies”reflectstheneedforconvenient,affordablefoodsthatcanbeeatenonthegobypoorurbanitescommutingacrossthespatialdividesthatfragmentSouthAfricancities.Eatingoutsideofthehomeisverycommon,andincludestheconsumptionofstreetfoodsandtoalesserextentfastfoods.Forthefoodinsecure,socialnetworksareanimportantfoodchannel,enablingthemtobuyfoodoncredit,borrowfoodoreatwithneighbourswhentimesaretough.Inruralandperi-urbanareas,thegatheringofseasonalwildfoodsplaysanimportantsupplementaryrole.However,urbanagriculture,foodaid,orcommunityfoodkitchensappeartoplayaminorroledespiteconsistentemphasisinfoodsecurityprogramming.Foodwaystellstoriesaboutpoverty,statusandwealth.Atfirstglance,thefoodwaysoftheSouthAfricanpoormayseemirrational:althoughbread,papandsugararecheapwaystoensuredietaryenergy,itseemsstrangethatsoftdrinks,meatanddairyaresopopular.Whychoosethemratherthanaffordableandhealthpromotingoptionssuchasfruit,vegetablesandpulses?Thesepatternsonly

begintomakesenseinlightofthesymbolicvaluesandidentitynarrativescommunicatedbyfood:Whilepap(maize)representsthefoundationalfoodconstitutingasharedAfricanidentity,consumptionofmeatisseennotonlyasamarkofwealth,butalsospecificallyofpowerandautonomy.Variouschickensnacks,beingthemostaffordablemeat,arethereforeespeciallypopularamongthepoorurbanmen.Chesanyamashopswherepeoplegrilltheirownmeatonthestreetarepopularsocialspacesamongmen.Consumptionofdairy,particularlycheeseandfermentedmilk,alsosignifieswealthandaffluence.

Imagecredit:LeifPetersen

Bycontrast,vegetablesareseenaswomen'sfoodandofsecondaryvalue,reflectingsubordinatefemalegenderstereotypes.Beans,sampandwildgreensinvokeimagesofbackwardnessandruralpoverty.Brandedsoftdrinksandfastfoodareaconspicuoussignofparticipatinginthemainstreameconomy.Visibleconsumptionoffoodatworkandinthestreetdemonstratessocialstatuswhilesharingathomeorincelebrationsnurturessocialnetworksandconstitutescommunity.Insummary,whilepoorpeopleavoidhungerbyrelyingonenergy-densestaples,theyalsoexpressgenderandclassidentities,cultivatesocialcapitalandrespondtothestigmaof

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povertyandexclusionattachedtovegetables,pulsesandwildfoodsbyconsumingmeat,dairy,streetfoods,sweetsandcarbonatedsoftdrinks.POOR PEOPLE’S STRATEGIES SHAPE FOOD VALUE CHAINS

Demandsdrivenbythefoodwaysofthepoorsendmessagesupstreamintoformalandinformalvaluechains,affectingretail,distribution,processingandproduction.Informaltraderespondstothesedemands,providingaffordableandconvenientaccesstofoodinimpoverishedandspatially-dislocatedrural,peri-urbanandinformalurbansettlements.FormalvaluechainsalsorespondtothesedemandsasBigFoodmakesultra-processed,energy-densefoodmoreavailable,accessibleandappealingtothepoorthroughretailbrands,packagingandlabellingandbyextendingretailoutletsintopoorerareas.Advertisingandmediaemploysophisticatedmarketresearch,advertisingandbrandingstrategiesthatrespondtothevaluesandaspirationsattachedtofood.ThemessagingprojectedbymediatosellBigFoodinvokes,exploitsandmanipulatestheaspirationsofthepoor,amplifyinganddistortingtheirfoodways.Thislegitimisesandentrenchesconsumptionofmaizemeal,bread,sugar,softdrinks,dairy,meatandfastfoodsassymbolsoftradition,power,success,andthegoodlife.Byfuellingdemandforhigh-volume,low-valueprocessedcommodities,BigFoodandmediareinforceconsolidationandconcentrationinthesevaluechains.Theseprocessesinturnfeedbackintosocialandeconomictransitionswhichdrivepoverty,urbanisation,andenvironmentaldegradation,nurturingaviciouscycleacceleratingfoodsystemtransitionandmalnutrition.WhileBigFoodreapsbigprofits,itisthepoorwhoshoulderthegrowingburdenofpoorhealth,stunteddevelopment,reducededucationalattainmentandproductivity,andultimatelyitistheyandthestatewhofootthebillforcheapfood.

GLOSSARY/ACRONYMS

AFSUN:AfricanFoodSecurityUrbanNetwork

BigFood:Thepowerfulnetworkofcorporationscontrollingregionalandglobalfoodvaluechains.

Chesanyama:Meatgrilledataroadsidegrill.

FoodSystem:Thecoherentsetofprocessesandinteractionslinkingstakeholdersoperatingalongmultiplefoodvaluechains.

Kota:Aquarter-loafofbreadhollowedandfilledwithvariousgarnishes.

SANHANES:SouthAfricanNationalHealthandNutritionExaminationSurvey

SASAS:SouthAfricanSocialAttitudesSurvey

Foodvaluechain:Theactivities,agentsandrelationshipsbywhichvalueisaddedtoandderivedfromfood,fromproductionviaprocessing,packaging,distribution,retail,toconsumptionandwaste.

Vetkoek:Adumplingfriedinoil.

RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Revisefoodpovertyline:Povertylinesneedtotakeintoaccounthowthepooraccessfoodindifferentsettingsandraisethebartoaccommodatetherealcostsofhealthydiets.

2. Establishpro-poorvaluechainstandards:

IncentiviseBigFoodtodevelopandenforceappropriateandtransparentenvironmental,social,nutritionalandpricingstandardsforpriorityvaluechainsservingthepoor,especiallymaize,wheat,poultry,freshfruitandvegetables.Thisshouldbecommunicatedthroughlabellingthatrespondstothevaluesandsymbolismembeddedinfood.Improvedaccesstorelevantinformationcanempowerpoorpeopletooptimisefoodchoice,sourcingandbargainingpower.

3. EnhanceInformalTrade:Asinformaltrade

andstreetfoodareamongthemost

Copy Editor: Andries du Toit | Series Editor: Mafa Hara | Photograph: Leif Petersen

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importantsourcesoffoodforpoorpeople,policiesshouldprotect,capacitateandsupportinformalfoodeconomies,particularlytradersprovidingaccesstodietarystaples,freshfruitandvegetables.Subsidisedmarketfacilitiesforfreshproducecouldimprovelocalaccessandreducecosts.Collaboratingwithtraderstoenhancetheaccessibilityandsafetyoftradingfacilitiesanddevelopappropriatestandardscanleveragevaluableeconomicandpublichealthbenefits.Focusonwhatisreallyactionable.4. Improvegovernanceofmediaand

communicationinlocalfoodenvironments:Monitor,regulateandtaxfoodpromotion,advertisementsandcommunicationinthemedia,publicinstitutionsandinpublicspacesliketransportfacilities,schoolsandclinics.Penalisetheadvertisingofunhealthy,highly-processedfoodshighinsugarandsaltandincludehealthriskadvice.Usemediataxrevenuetofundhealthmessagingthatrespondstoculturalvaluesandstereotypesandengageswiththeinstitutions,organisationsandrole-modelswhichshapecultureandidentity,suchasfaith-basedalliances,universities,sportscelebrities,musiciansandTVpersonalities.

5. Validatediverse,healthyfoodways:

Incentivisemediatocultivatenarrativesthatpromotehealthyfoodwaysresponsivetothecapabilitiesofthepoorandderivedfrominclusiveandsustainablefoodvaluechains.Promotecriticalinterrogationoffood-basedgender,race,classandethnicstereotypes.Encourageresearchersandmediatoexplorefoodwaysthatchallengedominantfoodnarratives

REFERENCES & RESOURCES

Alkon,A.H.,Block,D,,Moore,K.,Gillis,C.,DiNuccio,N.,Chavez,N.,2013.Foodwaysoftheurbanpoor.Geoforum48(2013)126–135Battersby,J.,2011.“TheStateofUrbanFoodInsecurityinCapeTown”,UrbanFoodSecuritySeriesNo.11,Queen’sUniversityandAFSUN,KingstonandCapeTown.Greenberg,S.,2010,ContestingthefoodsysteminSouthAfrica:issuesandopportunities(No.42).InstituteforPoverty,LandandAgrarianStudies,UniversityoftheWesternCape.Jones,M.O.,2007.FoodChoice,Symbolism,andIdentity:Bread-and-ButterIssuesforFolkloristicsandNutritionStudies(AmericanFolkloreSocietyPresidentialAddress,October2005).JournalofAmericanFolklore120(476):129–177Labadarios,D.;Steyn,N.P.;Nel,J.,2011.HowdiverseisthedietofadultSouthAfricans?NutritionJournal2011.10:33PuoaneT,MatwaP,BradleyH&HughesG,2006.Socio-culturalfactorsinfluencingfoodconsumptionpatternsintheblackpopulationinanurbantownshipinSouthAfrica.HumanEcologySpecialIssue14:89-93Rudolph,M.,Kroll,F.,Ruysenaar,S.,andDhlamini,T.,2012.TheStateofFoodInsecurityinJohannesburg,UrbanFoodSecuritySeriesNo.12,UniversityofCapeTownandAFSUN,KingstonandCapeTown.ShisanaO,LabadariosD,RehleT,SimbayiL,ZumaK,DhansayA,ReddyP,ParkerW,HoosainE,NaidooP,HongoroC,MchizaZ,SteynNP,DwaneN,MakoaeM,MalulekeT,RamlaganS,ZunguN,EvansMG,JacobsL,FaberM,&SANHANES-1Team,2013.SouthAfricanNationalHealthandNutritionExaminationSurvey(SANHANES-1).CapeTown:HSRCPressStatisticsSouthAfrica,2014.PovertyTrendsinSouthAfrica.Anexaminationofabsolutepovertybetween2006and2011.ReportNo.03-10-06