PLANT HUNTING IN THE MOUNTAINS OF ECUADOR

Colin Porter

Because of the sometimes inexperienced and inefficient mechanics, travellers in the Andes are often advised to run through a safety checklist prior to boarding a bus. Checking the bus for brakes, however, can be a wasted effort. Once I asked a driver in Cuenca about the brakes on his bus. ‘Look,’ he said, ‘the bus is stopped isn’t it? Then the brakes must work.’

A similar type of pragmatic fatalism seems to exist in the general attitude towards the conservation of Ecuador’s rich and diverse flora and fauna. I t is a diminishing resource that is fighting a seemingly losing battle against the various pressures of man’s influence; cattle- grazing in the high paramo grassland, and at lower altitudes the clearance of primary forest also for cattle-grazing and agriculture. The consequent problem of erosion, which causes major loss of soil; is increasing. Forests act like sponges, soaking up heavy rainfall and releasing it gradually, preventing run off and flash floods; the re- routing of buses on the Andes is often because of landslides. The poaching of animals and plants is yet another aspect of this de- pletion. All these factors are part of the environmental milieu a visitor to the Andes will find, and although this perhaps makes for a pessimistic outlook the beauty and diversity of what still survives overwhelms and inspires. I t is only when you are aware of the perilous existence of the tropical forests that you realize that the cries for conservation and preservation are not only common sense, but of paramount importance to the future.

The Republic of Ecuador is located on the north-west coast of the South American continent. I t occupies an area of 270,670 square km, extending 7 14 km north to south and 658 km east to west. As its name suggests the country straddles the Equator. The national territory also includes the Galapagos archipelago situated some 1,127 km from the mainland. The mainland can be divided into three distinct regions. The coastal plain or ‘Costa’ comprising 16.5 per cent of its land area is a rich agricultural belt (25-200 km wide) stretching from the Pacific to the mountains of the Andes. The ‘Oriente’ comprising 57.4 per cent of the national territory is mostly flat Amazon Basin rain-forest, stretching from the eastern foothills of the Andes to the upper reaches of the Amazon tributaries. The area between these two regions includes a plateau averaging 2,500-

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3,000 m above sea-level between the two parallel spines of the Andes and comprises 24.3 per cent of the national territory. The area between the two Cordilleras of the Andes was described by the Nineteenth-century German explorer Baron von Humboldt as the ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’; 22 of them are found in Ecuador, the highest being Chimborazo (6,310 m). Cotopaxi (5,897 m) is the world’s highest active volcano, and it last erupted in 1942.

I t is along the Cordilleras that my work was to be located. I was to base myself with the Rio Mazan Project (which is studying the wild life of the Rio Mazan Reserve) near Cuenca and to collect in the paramos (high altitude grassland) and above the forests near there. From there I was to head out to other mountain locations in the Ecuadorian Andes in a wider search for interesting plants. Cuenca is an old Spanish style colonial city and is the administrative centre for the region. I t has a population of 400,000 and has a mild climate similar to a very hot summer in southern England throughout most of the year. In the public squares palms, bougainvilleas, cordylines and frangipani can be seen.

The Rio Mazan is located just outside the western perimeter of the El Cajas National Park. El Cajas, described by a sedentary looking gentleman in Cuenca as ‘feo, frio y fulero’ (ugly, cold, and unkind) is a newly designated National Park, in appearance rather like the Cairngorms, except on a larger scale. In altitude it ranges from 3,000-4,500m. It is very sparsely populated and only on its edges are there scattered Indian farms growing a few hardy crops such as potatoes, onions and beans, but seemingly little else.

Some of the waters from the lakes and rivers of Cajas feed the Rio Mazan and then run down to Cuenca. Recently, uncontrolled industrial and human waste-disposal has caused pollution of this water. This abuse of a natural resource is one of the factors which make the work of the Rio Mazan Project so critical.

The Rio Mazan Reserve covers an area of 3,300 ha, although the work of the project is concentrated on 500 ha of primary montane cloud-forest. The area was bought by a logging firm in 1976 but protests based largely on fears for Cuenca’s excellent water supply, persuaded the local Council to buy the valley as a reserve. Several years later, in 1983, Tierra Viva, a local conservation organization which had been instrumental in saving the forest, invited some British scientists who were working in the region to carry out an ecological survey.

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The Rio Mazan Valley is about 4 krn in length, steep-sided and regularly punctuated by large vertical cliffs, consequently the forest exhibits considerable ecological diversity. Most of the trees are festooned with a dense growth of mosses, lichens, ferns, brorneliads and orchids. The orchids show considerable variation in their range of habitat. Common species such as Oncidium nubigenum and Elleanthus longibracteata grown on a wide variety of substrates (rocks, living and dead trees) where exposure is good and light is strong. Other epiphytic species are much more specific, e.g. Platystele hypsitera, a minute orchid with transparent star-shaped flowers which is found only in the spray zone of waterfalls. Twelve plants of an unidentified Te1a)ogon species have been found in Mazan. Wild-collected orchids are frequently seen for sale in Cuenca. A forest close to Mazan which contained 35 species when it was visited in 1983, was found to be completely stripped of its larger orchids when revisited in 1987.

Alongside the small open areas on the valley floor can be found a spiny shrub belonging to the Compositae, Barnadesia arborea. Growing up to 3 m in height with an open habit similar to Berberis, it is a plant entirely unknown in commerce. Ifit can be found in locations subject to occasional night frosts it might prove to be hardy in the milder areas ofBritah. Typically composite in that it has many overlapping involucral bracts, the attractive pink flower-head is about 12 cm long and pendulous, with protruding ray-flowers, superficially some- what like a species of Fuchsia which grows in the same area. The specimens of Fuchsia which were found in the Rio Mazan valley were at first thought to be of six different species, but they have now all been named Fuchsia loxensis until such time as further work is under- taken. Stenomesson aurantiacum was found growing on drier earth banks. This bulbous member of the Amaryllidaceae with its umbels of pendulous orange flowers grows in large congested colonies.

Above the tree-line, the dense forest gives way to paramo, which is the dominant vegetation of the higher regions. There are two types of paramo, grass paramo, and shrub and cushion paramo. The grass pararnos occupy most of the ground between 3,400 and 3,800m. They are dominated by bunch grasses of the genera Calamogrostis, Festuca and Stz$a. The clumps of grasses are generally intermingled with small shrubs such as species oflupinus, Castilleja, Chuquiragua and Hypochaeris; and herbs such as Ranunculus, Gentiana, Halenia, Valeriana, Baccharis and Oritrophum. The gentians are widespread and very varied, with six different species occurring on the ridges and along-

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side the lakes above Mazan. One species, Gentiana scarlatinostriata, has flowers striped with bright red and yellow. It grows in large colonies - glowing in the sun they looked like a troop of stranded circus balls; groups of adjacent puyas, with glistening sword-like leaves, fulfil the role of sentinel guards. ffalenia weddeliana, also in the Gentianaceae is a curious looking plant. I t has lime-green reflexed petals, and the stalk is only 5 cm tall while in other places, protected by the shelter of shrubs, it grows to 15cm. In the same damp location with mists swirling down from the higher rocky ridges, Pinguicula caLyptrata grows.

Chuquiragua jussieui

Chuquiragua jussieui is a small shrub found fairly widely in this region of the paramo, the decorative orange flower-heads with many small florets. I t is a plant well known among the local people for its medicinal properties, and is used to cure infertility in animals, the leaves and flowers being mixed with grass. In human medicine the flowers are boiled and can be used for the treatment of inflamed throat and lungs and for rheumatism. A species of Peperomia, P. kunthii, was found at 3,800 m, growing among moss and humus; in

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a sheltered outdoor position it may tolerate a mild British winter. The genus Bomarea is well represented in Mazan and Cajas. A

member of the Alstroemeriaceae, the genus contains about 120 species, many originating from subtropical and temperate regions of the Andes. Most species have a highly colourful inflorescence con- sisting of a pendulous umbel. The plants arise from short under- ground rhizomes with one or more ascending leafy stems, each terminating in an inflorescence. In mild areas of Britain some species have proved to be hardy but they do best in a cool glasshouse. The two species found above the tree-line in Cajas, Bomerea dulcis and B. caldasii should fall into this latter cool glasshouse category.

Bomarea caIdasii

The shrub and cushion paramos are mostly confined to areas above 3,800m. Here the bunch grasses decrease in extent and are largely replaced by shrubs in sheltered positions, herbs of various kinds, maeand rosette plants and, where it is moister, cushion plants. The cushion plants belong to many different families such as Com- positae, Umbelliferae, Ericaceae, Geraniaceae, Plantaginaceae, Cruciferae, and Juncaceae. A rosulate Viola, thought to be V. bangii

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was found growing in a small colony on the brow of an exposed grassy ridge. It had charming white flowers finely striped with yellow, and with brown centres. Other rosette plants which were found in the same region, species of Asorella and Gentiana, all exhibited the same habit which equipped them with the necessary defences to survive their exposed positions. The rosette, by growing close to the ground gains protection from the wind and to some extent from the cold since the temperature fluctuates least at ground level. The compactness of the plants minimizes their surface area, so reducing possible heat loss, and the rosette shape allows as many leaves as possible to catch the fleeting sunlight. Fine hairs on the leaves of some plants also reduce heat loss. Unfortunately plants of rosulate violas brought back from the wild have rarely been successful in cultivation. However, the rosulate V. asterz’us grown from seed donated by the University of Santiago, is so far growing well at Kew.

Also within the region of the paramo can be found small pockets of what are known as Quenoa forest, which provide islands of moist, humid habitat within the drier windswept paramo. These forests are most frequently situated on the leeward slopes of mountains and the size of the Quenoa forest reflects the availability and size of such shelter. The main component of this forest is Polylepis incana, a small tree some 5-8m tall belonging to the Rosaceae. It is said to be the highest naturally occurring tree in the world. Research is currently being undertaken to establish its potential as an agro-forestry crop.

Leaving Cajas and Mazan to continue my search for other plants took me back to Cuenca and civilization. Walking down the rough path to catch the bus into town I came across a magnificent flowefing specimen of Brugmansia sanguinea, a small tree with large fiery orange and yellow pendulous flowers, growing beside a house on the road- side. This is another plant still widely used for its renowned medicinal properties. I t contains several important alkaloids which include hyoscine, atropin and scopolamine. All parts of the Plant were used by the Indians in religious and ceremonial rituals. I t was called ‘the magic plant’ or Oloihqui. In former times slaves were conditioned for burial along with their dead masters by feeding them large quantities of Brugmansia mixed with tobacco to deaden the senses. Despite this fact, seed which I collected on a previous ex- pedition which had developed a rotting fungus was thrown out with the rest of breakfasts leftovers and fed to the local pig. As is common practice among pigs the whole lot was gorged rapidly. Apart from

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Brugmansia sanguinea, p. 177

lying contentedly in the morning sun it showed no adverse effects. Perhaps the effect is delayed?

My next objective was Chimborazo. Because of the earth’s equa- torial bulge it was at one time thought to be the highest mountain in the world - indeed some Ecuadorian postcards still proclaim it as such. In fact its summit is furthest from the centre of the earth. The permanent snow-line starts at about 5,450 m. My visit to Chimborazo had two aims. First, to seek out interesting plants and second armed with crampons and ice-axes, to try to climb to the summit with my two companions.

Easy access can be gained to the Refugio Edward Whymper at 5,150m. I t was across the surrounding dry volcanic screes that I bagan my search. At this altitude and in these arid conditions plants grow at their ecological limits. Any plants in the open areas are cushion plants, and in the slightly more sheltered spots between boulders plants can often be typified by their felt-like, often grey, leaves - species of Baccharis are typical. Richard Spruce, the noted

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Victorian plant collector, observed that plants of Gentiuna cernaa, found by Humboldt and Bonpland on their visit to Chimborazo ‘endure frost nearly every night of their lives, yet so light is the pressure of the air upon them that the frost injures them not, yet they die when frozen in the dense atmosphere ofthe plains’. Although this factor may be quite true there are other factors which ought to be considered by the grower down on the plains. A most attractive species of Nototriche (Malvaceae) with blue-lilac flowers fading to pale blue was found there. The underground stems of this plant were very extensive. In fact they are reported as sometimes being as much as 2.5 cm thick and up to 40 cm in length and, in a perfect specimen, the extremities of the root-system might extend as much as one metre below the soil surface. The leaf-rosettes on the other hand, only protruded 2-5 cm above the ground. I t was interesting to note that these plants were growing in a poor dry soil of volcanic origin and that where a richer, deeper soil existed nototriches were not to be found. Another tight cushion plant, a species ofDruba, was also found in similar conditions.

Our attempt to climb to the top of Chimborazo was not a success. Leaving the Refugio at 2a.m. and wearing head torches we only reached the edge of the snow-line. Simon, my companion was suffering severe discomfort because of the altitude. We had thought that being based at 3,030 m and regularly working at 4,450 m would be adequate preparation for our climb but this was not so. As I was suffering from a headcold I needed little persuasion to return to the refuge. Our friend John, an Ecuadorian who had previously climbed Chimborazo went on a little further with another climber but they too turned back because of altitude problems. Back at the refuge John and Simon were in a lot of pain and the offer of a lift back to Riobamba, the nearest town, was accepted immediately. I t was only when we had descended to about 3,030 m that their discomfort and pain disappeared. Further explorations around the snow melt region of Chimborazo were thus curtailed.

My final port of call in my quest for Ecuador’s mountain plants was El Angel in the north of Ecuador, close to its border with Colombia. I was looking for Espeletia pycnophylla which grows in the paramo there. This plant has an unbranched trunk with a head of grey, felty-hairy leaves. It grows up to 3 m in height and the flowers which emerge from the axils of the leaves are typical of the Compositae and bright yellow. The local name for this plant is fruilejon meaning

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‘like a priest’. A soup called achupalia is made of the flowers and roots and is said to be sweet and edible! The plant is found in the wide open windswept paramos north of El Angel at 4,000m. It is an unforgettable sight, growing in hundreds of thousands, stretching through the mists almost as far as the eye can see. Seeing these slender stems with their floppy head of grey leaves it is easy to understand its local name; they look like pilgrims massed for an airy benediction.

Alongside a lake, growing in boggy, peat-like conditions I came across more species of gentian, puya, Gunnera magellanica and a Saluia sp. Growing in the open on a relatively dry path was Viola glandulzfera, a tiny prostrate herb with bright yellow flowers. Nertera granadensis was also found here. This is an interesting dwarf herb with bright orange-red berries over pale green leaves. The genus is widely distributed throughout Central and South America, Polynesia, Australia, Southern China and Madagascar. I t is plants like this that

Nertera granadensis

are of much interest to plant geographers seeking evidence of conti- nental drift and separation.

My brief journey through a small part of the mountain landscape of Ecuador revealed a diverse and fascinating sub-stratum of life, and not only plant life. In the Rio Mazan valley, 19 different species of humming-bird have so far been identified, which, along with parrots and grey-breasted mountain toucans fly in the forest canopy. There are porcupines, a fish-eating rat, two species of deer, Andean foxes, large cats, frogs and lizards. Condors fly above the high ridges of the Andes. This richness though is not guaranteed to last for ever, and both man and nature itself create pressures, some of which are unnecessary. Apart from visible evidence of orchid poaching I heard

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how a certain orchid poacher would smuggle his catch, using forged papers, through the borders with Peru or Colombia. From there, where it is apparently easy to obtain phytosanitary certificates, they are exported to the United States. Phragmipedium besseae, a beautiful and rare orchid growing in remote Andean valleys was reputedly being sold for $100 each. Logging, soil-erosion and grazing for animals all further add to the loss of unique habitats and environ- ments. Some of these activities are however, inevitable and even necessary in a poor country still carrying the yoke of feudalism in certain areas. The truth is though that certain things could be better, a lot better. I felt distinctly privileged to visit these mountains. The least I can do is support any attempt to conserve such unique resources as and whenever I can.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT. I would like to thank Helen Haywood who drew the illustrations.

READERS’ LETTERS April 1989

In reply to Mike Read‘s (1989) article ‘Bromeliads Threatened by Trade’, I feel I should comment on certain of his statements and recommendations.

It is certainly true that bromeliads, specifically species of Tillanttsia, have evolved from specialist collector’s plants to mass market, fad items during the past ten years or so. It is also true that at least initially most of the stock was wild-collected, mostly from Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Peru, Argentina and Brazil. It is not true that a significant number of species found in the trade have a very limited range.

Five of the most widely offered and least expensive species (TdluadSia ionantha, 1. brachycaulos, T. tricolor, 1. caput-medusae and T. but,?$ have ex- tensive distributions from Mexico to Costa Rica. Tillandria bulbosa, T. juncea, 1. poEystachia and T. pruinosa, also commonly offered, are even more wide- ranging, to the West Indies and South America. Considering that large scale harvesting occurs in only limited areas of each species’ natural range, it is unlikely that commercial collecting will have more than a very localized effect. Ignored is the fact that collectors rarely harvest all the individuals and that at least the common and widespread species have a high potential for reproduction and re-colonization. The latter, of course, assumes that the habitat remains intact and suitable.

Among Tillandria species of less extensive ranges, only a few have entered horticulture in large numbers. The evidently rare Tillandsia sprengeliana h a , to my knowledge, been imported into the United States on only three occasions - a total of less than 100 plants. The same may be said for the rest

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