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PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Cambodia .. 2Destination map ............. 410 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12If You Like ........................ 14Month by Month ............. 16Itineraries ........................ 18Angkor Trip Planner ....... 22Travel with Children ....... 28Regions at a Glance ....... 30
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND CAMBODIA
Cambodia Today ............ 276History ............................. 279Pol Pot & the Legacy ofthe Khmer Rouge ........... 297The Culture ..................... 300Food & Drink ................... 311Environment ................... 319
Rainsy remained in self-imposed exile to avoid charges of crage for his e orts to move border posts with Vietnam in Svaynce in 2009.
Med a
origin of visitors (%)
Asean
26
Asia (non-Asean)
31
Americas
9
Australia
5
other
6
Europe
23
If Cambodia we100 people
90 would be Khmer5 would be Vietnamese3 would be Cham1 would be Chinese1 would be Ethnic Minority
4200 BC Cave dwellers capable of making pots inhabit
caves around Laang Spean; archaeological evidence suggests the
vessels made may be similar to those still made in Cambodia
today.
AD 100
The process of India-nisation begins with the arrival of Indian
traders and holy men: the religions, language
and sculpture of India start to take root in
Cambodia.
mbodian Kingdomsidn’t begin and end with Angkor. There were ing oms present in this area before the 9th centur
An Empire of Temples Contemporary Cambodia is the succes-sor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkorian period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and gran-deur in southeast Asia. The traveller’s rst glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate ex-pression of Khmer genius, is sublime and is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.
The Comeback Capital Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples. The
chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, econom-ic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking o Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city is nally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous river-side location, a cultural renaissance, and a wining and dining scene to rival anywhere in the region.
Upcountry Adventures Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to some extent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the countryside. This is the place to ex-perience the rhythm of rural life and time-
Ascend to the realm of the gods, Angkor Wat. Descend into the hell of the Khmer Rouge at Tuol Sleng. Thanks to a history both inspiring and depressing, Cambodia delivers an intoxicating present for adventurous visitors.
Welcome to Cambodia
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
275GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Phnom Penh Dining Bars Shopping
Dining French bistros abound, and out-standing fusion res-taurants blend the best of Cambodian and European a-vours. Ubiquitous Cambodian barbe-cues o er a more local experience.
Siem Reap Dining Shopping Activities
Dining Contemporary Khmer, spiced-up street food, ne French and a whole host more, plus legendary Pub St – Siem Reap is where it’s happening.
ShoppingChi b i h
Khmer Cuisine 7 Everyone has tried Thai
and Vietnamese speciali-ties before they hit the region, but Khmer cuisine remains
Kratie 8 Gateway to the rare fresh-
water Irrawaddy dolphins of the Mekong River (p 253 ), Kratie is emerging as a busy
TIM
HILL/A
LAM
Y ©
7 810
Angkor TripPlanner When to Go November–March Quite cool, but popular June–August Wet season, with lush green landscapes and light crowds
Best Temple Bayon Top for inspirational expression
Best Bas-Reliefs Angkor Wat Almost 1km of art cast in stone, including the Churning of the Ocean of Milk
Where to Abandoned to the jun magni cent temples gion’s oldest nationatrees and a refreshinvelopment amid the aWith such a wealth ofsible to plan a peaceffrom the madding cromadding at some temof day, particularly du
Some visitors assul d b d
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -965 -1
9 781741 799651
99325
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cambodia-8-cover.indd 2cambodia-8-cover.indd 2 23/03/2012 11:21:08 AM23/03/2012 11:21:08 AM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Nick Ray, Greg Bloom
#_Phnom Penh
p34
South Coastp158
Eastern Cambodiap243Northwestern
Cambodiap204
#̂
#̂
Siem Reapp88
Temples ofAngkor
p118
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 326Transport ........................ 339Cambodia Border Crossings ......... 347Health .............................. 352Language ........................ 356Index ................................ 367Map Legend .................... 375
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
During the bad old days of communism and the Cold
ar, pretty much no land ders were open to for-
rs. Times have changed re are now more than
order crossings Cambodia with
one bor-
N The bodia aopen fromIt is very poventurous ancombine traveern Cambodia Laos.
To enter Cambthis route, visas aon arrival at TrapaLao visas are also available on arrivafrom US$30 to USpending on nationsides of the bordea processing fee fcrossing, (US$2 US$3 to US$4 a
To leave Camto the remote Treng. From Sthere are mheading nat arounagainon
CambodiaBorder
Crossings
PAGE
32
PAGE
325
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s top recommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first
S A green or sustainable option F No payment
required
PHNOM PENH . . . . . . .34AROUND PHNOM PENH . . . 83Kien Svay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Koh Dach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Udong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Tonlé Bati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Phnom Tamao WildlifeRescue Centre . . . . . . . . . . 86Phnom Chisor . . . . . . . . . . . .87Kirirom National Park . . . . .87
SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . .88AROUND SIEM REAP . . . . . 113Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary . . 113Ang Trapeng ThmorReserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Floating Village of Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Kompong Pluk . . . . . . . . . . 116Kompong Khleang . . . . . . . 116Me Chrey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . 118ANGKOR WAT . . . . . . . . . . . 125ANGKOR THOM . . . . . . . . . 135Bayon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136Baphuon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139Royal Enclosure & Phimeanakas . . . . . . . . . . .139Preah Palilay . . . . . . . . . . . .140Tep Pranam . . . . . . . . . . . . .140Preah Pithu . . . . . . . . . . . . .140Terrace of theLeper King . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140Terrace of Elephants . . . . .140
Kleangs & PrasatSuor Prat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140AROUND ANGKORTHOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Baksei Chamkrong . . . . . . . 141Phnom Bakheng . . . . . . . . . 141Chau Say Tevoda . . . . . . . .142Thommanon . . . . . . . . . . . .142Spean Thmor . . . . . . . . . . .142Ta Keo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142Ta Nei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142Ta Prohm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142Banteay Kdei &Sra Srang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Prasat Kravan . . . . . . . . . . .144Preah Khan . . . . . . . . . . . . .144Preah Neak Poan . . . . . . . .145Ta Som . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145Eastern Baray &Eastern Mebon . . . . . . . . . .146Pre Rup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146Banteay Samré . . . . . . . . . . 147Western Baray &Western Mebon . . . . . . . . . 147ROLUOS TEMPLES . . . . . . . 147Preah Ko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Bakong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Lolei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148AROUND ANGKOR . . . . . . . 148Phnom Krom . . . . . . . . . . . .148Phnom Bok . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Chau Srei Vibol . . . . . . . . . .149Banteay Srei . . . . . . . . . . . .149Kbal Spean . . . . . . . . . . . . .152Phnom Kulen . . . . . . . . . . .152Beng Mealea . . . . . . . . . . . .153
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
REMOTE ANGKORIAN SITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Koh Ker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
SOUTH COAST . . . . . 158KOH KONG PROVINCE . . . 160Koh Kong City . . . . . . . . . . .160Koh Kong Conservation Corridor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Koh Sdach Archipelago . . .169Koh Rong & Koh Rong Samloem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Koh Russei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Koh Ta Kiev . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Koh Thmei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174KOMPONG SOM PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Around Sihanoukville . . . .188KAMPOT PROVINCE . . . . . 189Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189Around Kampot . . . . . . . . .194Bokor National Park . . . . .194Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195Around Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . .199TAKEO PROVINCE . . . . . . .200Takeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Around Takeo . . . . . . . . . . 202
NORTHWESTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . 204KOMPONG CHHNANG PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Kompong Chhnang . . . . . 205
PURSAT PROVINCE . . . . . .209Pursat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209Kompong Luong . . . . . . . . . 211Northern Cardamom Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211BATTAMBANG PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . .212Around Battambang . . . . 220PAILIN PROVINCE . . . . . . . 222Pailin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Samlaut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224BANTEAY MEANCHEY PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Poipet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Sisophon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Banteay Chhmar . . . . . . . 228ODDAR MEANCHEY PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Anlong Veng . . . . . . . . . . . 229PREAH VIHEAR PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Tbeng Meanchey . . . . . . . 232Prasat Preah Vihear . . . . . 233Chhep Vulture-Feeding Station . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Preah Khan . . . . . . . . . . . . 235KOMPONG THOM PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Kompong Thom . . . . . . . . 238Around Kompong Thom . 240
EASTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . .243KOMPONG CHAMPROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kompong Cham . . . . . . . . 245
Around Kompong Cham . 248KRATIE PROVINCE . . . . . . .250Kratie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251Around Kratie . . . . . . . . . . 253Chhlong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254STUNG TRENG PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Stung Treng . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Around Stung Treng . . . . . .257RATANAKIRI PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Ban Lung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Around Ban Lung . . . . . . . 264MONDULKIRI PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Sen Monorom . . . . . . . . . . 268Around Sen Monorom . . . . 271Seima Protection Forest . .272Mimong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272Koh Nhek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273
LakeTonlé Sap
SomKompong
Gulf of
Gulf of Thailand
River
Sap
RiverPouthisa
t
Tonlé
MEANCHEY
REAPSIEM
ODDAR
KANDAL
PURSAT
KOH KONG
KOMPONGSPEU
CHHNANGKOMPONG
TAKEO
KEPKRONG
SOM KOMPONG
KAMPOT
MEANCHEY
PAILINKRONG
BATTAMBANG
BANTEAY
KsantChoam
TbengMeanchey
Sra Em
Kulen
ChoamO Smach Srawngam
ChoamSamraong
Anlong Veng
Thmor Pouk
Chong Jom
Khvau
Phnom Den
Ta Seng
Srayong
Stoeng
Kompong Thom
Siem ReapMe Chrey
Pursat
MoungRussei
KhleangKompong
Dam Dek
Svay Leu
KompongLuong
Kompong Chhnang
Romeas
Udong
PHNOM PENH
TakhmauKompong Speu
Krakor
Phnom
TakeoAngk
Tasaom
Chhuk
Tani
Tinh Bien
Xa Xia
KepKompongTrach
Ha Tien
Prek Chak
Tuk Meas Den
Sre
RenhVeal
Ambel
Kampot
Chi Phat
Sisophon
Kouk
Poipet
Kduoch
KeseiReang
Psar PruhmPailin Treng
BattambangKamrieng
Ban Pakard
Daun Lem
Trat
Cham YeamHat Lek
Khlong Yai
Kralanh
Krong Koh Kong
Sihanoukville
Mongkol Borei
Aranya Prathet
Prasat Preah
Koh Ker
Vihear
Wildlife SanctuaryKulen Promtep
Thmor ReserveAng Trapeng
Banteay Chhmar
KhanPreah
Wildlife SanctuaryBeng Per
Kuk
Wildlife SanctuaryBoeng Tonlé Chhmar
Sambor Prei
Floating
Temples ofAngkor
Chong KneasVillage of
MealeaBeng
Phnom AuralWildlife Sanctuary
Bokor HillStation
Wildlife SanctuaryRoneim Daun Sam
Wildlife SanctuaryPhnom Samkos
Peam KrasaopWildlife Sanctuary
(Chuor Phnom Dangkrek)Dangkrek Mountains
Phnom
(487m)Kulen
Phnom Aural(1813m)
DaPhnom
Dam
rei)
(Chuor Phnom
Elephant M
ountains
(1711m)KrapangPhnom
PhnomSamkos(1717m)
Kravanh)
Mountains
(Chuor Phnom
Cardam
om
Phnom
(1213m)Knang Trapeang
12º N
103º E
11º N
102º E
KampingPoy
Koh
IslandPhu Quoc
Thmei
TonsayKoh
Koh Kong
Ko Chang
Ko Kut
Koh Rong
Koh Samit
THAILAND
ForestProtectedPreah Vihear
Protected LandscapeBanteay Chhmar
Protected ForestThmorAng Trapeng
ProtectedLandscape
Angkor
ReserveBiosphereTonlé Sap
National Park
Southern Cardamons
Kirirom
Protected Forest
ForestProtected
Ta MoaPark
Park
ForestProtected
Kbal ChhayNational
Bokor
Kep
ParkNational
ReamNational
Park
National
MultipleUse Area
Samlaut
Botum Sakor
AreaMultiple Use
Tonlé Sap
Bird SanctuaryPrek Toal
Protected ForestCentral Cardamons
CorridorConservationKoh Krong
National Park
Phnom Kulen
Siem Reap
Temples of Angkor
Prasat Preah Vihear
Battambang
Kep
Sihanoukville
Cambodia (p88)The hip new face of
archaeological site (p118)The world's most impressive
temples (p233)Mother of all mountain
lifestyle experiences (p212)Colonial-era gem, gateway to
Cambodia's golden era (p195)Seaside retreat from
and islands (p175)The place for beaches
› Cambodia
S E AS O U T H C H I N A
Kong
Riv
er
RiverSen
Mek
ong
Bassas
Tonlé
Tonlé
San
Tonlé
RATANAKIRI
TRENGSTUNGVIHEAR
PREAH
KRATIE
THOMKOMPONG
CHAMKOMPONG
SVAY
PREYVENG
RIENG
MONDULKIRI
AnlongKrielTrapaeng
Siem Pang
Nong Nok Khiene
ThomKo Chheuteal
Muang Khong
Voen Sai
Koh Nhek
Sen Monorom
Stung Treng
Sandan
Sambor
Rovieng
Thala Boravit
Chhlong
Snuol
Memot
ChamKompong
Baray
Skuon
TrangStung
Spoe Tbong
KrauChub
Neak
Prey Veng
Suong
Kratie
Bavet
NinhTay
Chiphu
Moc Bai
BinhKhanh
Kaam
Chau Doc
SamnorChakreyBanteay
Vinh Xuong
Svay Rieng
Luong Ba Phnom
Sre Khtum
(SAIGON)HO CHI MINH CITY
Lumphat
Seima Ban LungLe Tanh
YeakBoeng
LomBokheo
Nam Lear
SanctuaryWildlife
Phnom PrichWildlife Sanctuary
SnoulWildlife
Sanctuary
Xa Mat
PlongTrapaeng
LomphatWildlife Sanctuary
Loc Ninh
Trapaeng Sre
O'Yadaw
108º E107º E
LAOS
VIETNAM
Protected ForestPreah Vihear Park
Stung Treng
r
NationalVirachey
Mondulkiri
ForestProtected
Ramsar Site
Ratanakiri
Mondulkiri
Kratie
Kampot
Phnom Penh
fuelled excursions (p258)Jungle romps and adrenaline-
The wild east (p267)
River (p251)Rare dolphins in the Mekong
Laid-back little charmer,gateway to Bokor (p189)
The ‘pearl of Asia'is back (p34)
50 km00
25 miles
Top Experiences ›
375
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Beach
Diving/Snorkelling
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
DrinkingCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder CrossingBus
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingPetrol StationTaxiTrain/RailwayTramOther Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
Beach/Desert
Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
Top Sight(Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Cable Car/Funicular
Sights
Activities, Courses& Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking
Information
Transport Geographic
Hydrography
Areas
Boundaries
Population
RoutesMap Legend
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s recommendation
F No payment required
S A green or sustainable option
Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.
These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:
1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking
r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment
2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping
C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Trami Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train
Reviews are organised by author preference.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Jun 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 965 1© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Nick Ray Coordinating Author; Siem Reap, Temples of Angkor, Northwestern Cambodia, Eastern Cambodia A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife, Kulikar, and his young children, Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often
out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for the world of tele vision and fi lm, and he has been involved in movies including Tomb Raider and Two Brothers. Motorbikes are a part-time passion (riding them a passion, maintaining them part-time) and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.
Greg Bloom Phnom Penh, South Coast After fi ve years in Manila, Greg crossed the pond to ‘small-town’ Phnom Penh in 2008 and immediately took a liking to the city. He’s spent ample time researching its restaurants and bars ever since. That said, he’d move to Cambodia’s southern islands in a heartbeat if he had an excuse. When not writing about Cambodia and the Philippines for Lonely Planet, Greg might be found poking around the former Soviet Union (he was editor of the Kyiv Post in
another life) or running around Asia’s ultimate Frisbee fi elds. Read about his trips at www.mytripjournal.com/bloomblogs. Read more about Greg at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4
Itiner-aries
VIETNAM
Phnom Da
KampotKep
Kompong Thom
Sihanoukville
PHNOMPENH
Sambor Prei Kuk
Beng MealeaBayonAngkor Wat Ta Prohm
Kbal Spean
#•
#•
#•
#• #•#•
#•
#_
#•
#•#• #•
#_
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
R
#e0 100 km0 60 miles
Two WeeksCambodia Snapshot
This is the ultimate journey, via temples, beaches and the capital. Hit Phnom Penh for its impressive National Museum and stunning Silver Pagoda. There’s superb shopping at the Psar Tuol Tom Pong, and a night shift that never sleeps.
Take a fast boat to Phnom Da, then go south to the colonial-era town of Kampot. From here, visit Bokor Hill Station, the seaside town of Kep and nearby cave pagodas.
Go west to Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s beach capital, to sample the seafood, dive the nearby waters or just soak up the sun. Backtrack via Phnom Penh to Kompong Thom and visit the pre-Angkorian brick temples of Sambor Prei Kuk.
Finish the trip at Angkor, a mind-blowing experience with which few sights compare. See Angkor Wat, perfection in stone; Bayon, weirdness in stone; and Ta Prohm, nature triumphing over stone – before venturing further afi eld to Kbal Spean or jungle-clad Beng Mealea.
This trip can take two weeks at a steady pace or three weeks at a slow pace. Public trans-port serves most of this route.
Whether you’ve got a week Whether you’ve got a week or a month, these itineraries or a month, these itineraries provide a starting point for provide a starting point for a journey to remember. Want a journey to remember. Want more inspiration? Head online more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.chat with other travellers.
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Kep
Battambang
Sihanoukville
SiemReap
PHNOMPENH
Temples ofAngkor
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Koh Ker
PrasatPreah Vihear
Kirirom NationalPark
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One MonthThe Big One
Cambodia is a small country and even though the roads are sometimes bad and travel can be slow, most of the big hitters can be visited in a month.
Setting out from the hip capital that is Phnom Penh, take in the beauty of the northeast, following the Run to the Hills itinerary. Choose between Ratanakiri
Province and the volcanic crater lake of Boeng Yeak Lom, or Mondulkiri Province and the original Elephant Valley Project to ensure maximum time elsewhere. The gentle hills of Mondulkiri are better for budget travellers as traversing overland is easy, while Ratanakiri makes sense for those planning an overland journey between Cambodia and Laos. Both off er new primate experiences for those that fancy a bit of monkey business along the way. Tough choice…can’t decide? Flip a coin, if you can fi nd one in this coinless country.
Head to the South Coast, taking the route outlined in the Cambodia Snapshot itinerary. Take your time and consider a few nights in Kep or on one of the nearby islands, and a boat trip from Sihanoukville to explore the up-and-coming islands off the coast. Turning back inland, check out Kirirom National Park, home to pine trees, black bears and some spectacular views of the Cardamom Mountains.
Then it’s time to go northwest to charming Battambang, one of Cambodia’s best-preserved colonial-era towns and a base from which to discover rural life. Take the prover-bial slow boat to Siem Reap, passing through stunning scenery along the snaking Sangker River, and turn your attention to the temples of Angkor.
Visit all the greatest hits in and around Angkor, but set aside some extra time to venture further to the rival capital of Koh Ker, which is cloaked in thick jungle, or Prasat Preah Vihear, a mountain temple perched precariously atop a cliff on the Thai border.
Overlanders can run this route in reverse, setting out from Siem Reap and exiting Cam-bodia by river into Vietnam or Laos. Entering from Laos, divert east to Ratanakiri before heading south. Getting around is generally easy, as there are buses on the big roads, taxis on the small roads and buzzing boats on the many rivers.
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» (above) Ta Prohm temple (p142), Angkor » (left) Fishing boats, Kompong Cham (p245)
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Sen Monorom
Ban Lun
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Kratie
Stung Treng
KohKong City
Thma BangRanger Station
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Koh Nhek
Boeng YeakLom
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Untamed Cardamoms
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Ten DaysRun to the Hills
Northeast Cambodia, a notably much cooler region of rolling hills and secret waterfalls, is home to a patch-work of ethnic minorities.
Leaving Phnom Penh, pass through the bustling Mekong town of Kompong Cham before heading east to Sen Monorom, the charming capital of Mondulkiri Province. Spend a few days here to walk with the herd at the Elephant Valley Project and explore Bunong villages before heading back to the Mekong at Kratie, for an encounter with elusive Irrawaddy river dolphins.
Push north up the Mekong to Stung Treng Province, site of several budding ecotourism excursions. To the east lies Ban Lung, capital of Ratanakiri Province and base for an adventure to remember. From here plunge into Cambodia’s most beauti-ful natural swimming pool at Boeng Yeak Lom, visit ethnic-minority villages around Voen Sai, or trek deep into the forests of Virachey National Park.
This trip is easy to manage using share taxis or pick-ups, but it’s a challenge in the wet season. Experienced motorbikers can link Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri Provinces via Koh Nhek village on one of Cambodia’s more devilish roads.
Two WeeksUntamed Cardamoms
Get a sense of the diverse ecosystems of the Cardamom Mountains along the Koh Kong Conservation Cor-ridor. Start at one-time smugglers’
port Koh Kong, a good base for day trips through the pristine mangrove forests of Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary, and to Koh Kong Island, with seven unspoiled beaches. Then travel inland by moto or boat to the Tatai River, where ecologically sus-tainable accommodation is available. Drive to Thma Bang ranger station to explore the Areng River habitats of the endangered dragonfi sh and Siamese crocodile.
Continue east along NH48 to Andoung Tuek and cruise upriver to Chi Phat, a pio-neering community-based ecotourism project. Return to Andoung Tuek and set your sights on the Koh Sdach Archipelago, off Botum Sakor National Park. There’s accommoda-tion on Koh Sdach and Koh Tatong, both near excellent snorkelling grounds.
A daily boat links Koh Sdach with Si-hanoukville, where you can continue is-land hopping to the popular Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem or explore more ecotourism opportunities in nearby Ream National Park.
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