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Autumn 2010 2
Citation preview
skincare
The world of personal care ingredienTs
PUREHealthMagazine
aUTUMn ediTion 2010
conTracT servicesOutsource your way
to better business
evenT previewin-cosmetics Asia
forMUlaTion and
TechnologyNanocapsules deliver!
Bugs, plants and business
coloUr ManageMenT in cosMeTics
ExfOliAtiON, whitENiNg ANd prOBiOtics
2 autumn 2010
conTenTs
10
aUTUMn ediTion 2010
In this issue...
contents
2010 autumn 3
32
30
froM The ediTor05 Organics with a Price, Ethics with a Bite Dr Kevin Robinson
This JUsT in06 News and Products from the Personal Care Sector
show preview10 Energizing the Asian Beauty BusinessSarah Gibson
skincare12 More Than a Fact of LifeRaquel Merino and Miriam Mateu
14 Probiotics and Skincare: A Case StudySylvie Roquefeuil Dedieu
16 in-cosmetics Asia Faces Up to SkincareDr Alain Khaiat
18 Navigate Your Skin to Radiant Beauty with Chemical ExfoliationSarah Burns-Eggenberger
20 The Non-Stop Search for Efficient WhiteningIrene Montaño
conTracT services24 Effective Outsourcing for Better BusinessPeter Burrows
forMUlaTion26 Nanocapsulations in Cosmetic Products: An Answer to Your Formulation Problems?
Dr Mojgan Moddaresi
Technology30 Bugs, Plants and BusinessDr Kevin Robinson
coloUrs and fragrances32 Managing Colour in the Cosmetics Industry: The Benefits of Contactless MeasurementReinhard Feld
lasT word34 Baobab Oil: A Miracle of NatureSandra Wulf18
12
1226
4 autumn 2010
Staff
Registered Office: Via Media UK Ltd 22 HighacreDorking Surrey RH4 3BF.Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information
in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is
complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any
liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions
of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do
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Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing
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responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on
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Copyright © 2010, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication
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EditorialEditorial DirectorKevin [email protected]. +44 (0)1392 202 591
SalesGeneral Manager/PublisherMiranda [email protected]. +44 (0)1372 364 122
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ArtArt Director/ProductionPaul [email protected]. +44 (0)1372 364 126
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Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers.Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details).
Via Media UK LimitedManaging Director Simon [email protected]. +44 (0)1372 364 131
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Process and Packaging Lines for the Pharmaceutical Industry
Bosspak Tablet Counting
FrymaKoruma Vacuum Processing & Wet Grinding
Macofar Aseptic/non aseptic Filling of Powders & Liquids,
Caspule Filling, Vials Washing/Sterilizing
Noack Blister Packaging
Promatic Cartoning & End of Line Packaging
Siebler Strip & Customized Packaging
Unipac Tube Filling
LAY_ROM_Ins_210x148_E.indd 1 17.06.09 13:12
Better education
leads to better
sales. This seems
to be a common
mantra across
many sectors and markets;
but, according to the findings
of a recent US study by market
research firm, Kairos Consumers
(www.kairosconsumers.com),
personal care shoppers could
definitely benefit from a little
more time in class! Consumers
need to be better educated
about the effectiveness and
product claims of organic and
natural cosmetics to justify
paying a premium price,
states the Kairos study, which
included store audits and
focus groups. It highlighted
a general lack of knowledge
among consumers about the
ingredients in organic and
natural cosmetics, even though
they may regularly purchase
and are knowledgeable about
organic food. Mind you, the
questionable benefits of so-
called organic food is still a
topic of much ferocious debate,
so it’s perhaps not particularly
surprising that the concepts
of “organic” and “natural”
personal care products are not
that well understood.
The report claims that
cosmetics shoppers place a
greater emphasis on product
performance than the safety
and wholesomeness that
organic and natural skincare
brands signify. Because
consumers seem to know and
understand conventional
cosmetic claims or be more
familiar with the brand names,
they tend to favour buying
them in preference to products
labelled as organic or natural.
Those consumers buying
organic and natural cosmetics
admit they don’t know a great
deal about what constitutes
an organic or a natural
product. When asked what
they believe makes a natural
or organic product appealing
to them, cosmetics buyers said
safety and the absence of
certain ‘negative’ ingredients.
“Cosmetic shoppers told us they
believe cosmetics are deemed
to be safe when they are free
from ingredients they view to
be ‘bad,’ such as parabens,
dyes and chemicals. They also
place great importance on
the brand’s reputation in the
organic or natural marketplace,
making brand familiarity an
important influencer of cosmetic
decisions,” explains Betsy Hoag,
cofounder of Kairos Consumers.
“Enormous opportunity exists
for both manufacturers and
retailers with established
brands in organics or naturals,
as consumers place
great importance on familiar
names. Smaller, lesser known
brands can also succeed by
educating organic shoppers
about the effectiveness of
organic and natural ingredients
as many consumers in the
study indicated a desire for
this information,” notes Hoag.
And I’ll bet they’ll be a lot more
interested when the prices
come down, as well.
Taking the natural/organic
theme to the extreme, a
new method of analysing
squalene and squalane, oils
often used in the production
of cosmetics (as an emollient
and hydrating agent) and
vaccines, can show whether
they came originally from the
liver of deepwater sharks or from
olives. In 2006, the EU imposed
deep-sea shark fishing limits
in the Northeast Atlantic, and
since 2008, some important
cosmetic firms have declared
that they have stopped using
shark squalane. Up until now,
however, there has been no way
for manufacturers to determine
whether the squalene or
squalane they are using has
come from sharks or olives. But,
a new scientifically validated
method — published in Rapid
Communications in Mass
Spectrometry — can now reveal
the source. Currently, thousands
of endangered deepwater
sharks are killed each year to
supply a cheap source of these
oils, with squalene being the
second most sought after raw
product of sharks after their
fins. A technique does exist
to extract these compounds
from vegetable sources, but
shark-derived squalene offers
a higher yield and requires
shorter processing times,
therefore involving lower costs.
Consequently, there is a
temptation for oil suppliers to
keep on exploiting sharks.
“Our method will protect
both cosmetic firms and
consumers from commercial
fraud and will make it possible
to promote the production of
squalene from olive oil. It will
also allow the origin of squalane
within a finished product to
be determined. Together,
this will discourage the illegal
fishing of deepwater sharks
and thus contribute towards
protecting sharks from the threat
of extinction,” says Federica
Camin, who works at the IASMA
Research and Innovation
Centre, Fondazione Edmund
Mach (San Michele all’Adige,
Italy) and authored the paper.
“This new method could be
used as an official method of
detecting whether any batch of
squalene or squalane has come
from animal or plant sources,
allowing manufactures to make
clear claims about the ethical
status of their products,” says
Camin. When comparing ethics
with organics, I can only hope
that personal care shoppers
would choose the former … and
that has to be worth paying a
little more for, doesn’t it? phM
From The Editor
for More inforMaTionDr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at [email protected].
organics wiTh a price, eThics wiTh a BiTeA recent study shows that cosmetic shoppers rank product performance higher than organic and natural ingredients.
2010 autumn 5
Process and Packaging Lines for the Pharmaceutical Industry
Bosspak Tablet Counting
FrymaKoruma Vacuum Processing & Wet Grinding
Macofar Aseptic/non aseptic Filling of Powders & Liquids,
Caspule Filling, Vials Washing/Sterilizing
Noack Blister Packaging
Promatic Cartoning & End of Line Packaging
Siebler Strip & Customized Packaging
Unipac Tube Filling
LAY_ROM_Ins_210x148_E.indd 1 17.06.09 13:12
6 autumn 2010
News and Products
prodUcT saMples and UniT dose applicaTion MUlTipacksSkincare sample and unit dose packaging, available from J.P. Packaging, solves the complex and often frustrating product handling and dosing issues presented by unique product textures, viscosity, dispensing requirements and brand marketing packaging objectives. Convenient, portable and sanitary product testers, and multipack point-of-use packages, offer accurate, controlled, point-of-application reliability. “Skincare product formulations present a wide range of challenges,” notes John Vandercliff, President of J.P. Packaging. “Viscosities may range from thin, watery solutions to thick, viscous formulations. Individual ingredients — notably oils or micro-inclusions within skincare formulations — often present unique filling and sealing challenges. Fortunately, our experience with machinery, product filling and a broad selection of packaging substrates, enables us to package skincare products in neat, great looking, brand-enhancing, protective packages — without any integrity issues.”
A key element in the packaging of skincare product samples is proper dosing and placement, especially with OTC products. If a packager overfills, underfills or fills product within the seam line, the package may not contain an accurate application or the package integrity may be compromised. Because product should sit comfortably within a secure 360˚ sealing perimeter, J.P. Packaging creates and often modifies the dosing pumps to ensure proper fill volume and placement. Customized handling and dosing solutions have been developed for packaging formulations that include microdermabrasion beads — the active encapsulated nanoparticle ingredient beads that are incorporated in some skincare products. The tiny, gritty particles that are troublesome to many contract packagers are readily filled by J.P. Packaging in a well-controlled proprietary operation that maintains the product integrity and proper dosing (www.jppkg.com).
MUlTiviTaMin BreasT enhancerThe creators of Pupa Cosmetics now offer a clinically proven bust-enhancing product to help customers achieve naturally fuller, firmer, more toned breasts. This multivitamin-packed cream supports breasts like a natural bra and increases them by up to one cup size in just 8 weeks, making it a dream cream for ‘breast-challenged’ women! From the very first application, Pupa Multivitamin AEF Breast Enhancer Intensive Treatment starts working on the subcutaneous adipose cells, stimulating them to accumulate lipids. After just 15 days of regular treatment, morning and evening, the first results are visible: breasts are rounder, fuller, more even and voluminous. A clinical trial (30 women for 8 weeks) revealed that 93% of the participants agreed that they had rounder breasts, 90% confirmed that their breasts were firmer and more compact, and 97% agreed that their skin felt more supple and nourished. Recommended for anyone who desires more youthful looking breasts, the cream contains Vit-A-Like, Bio-Soy Complex, vitamin E and vitamin F. For more information, visit www.pupa.it.
rpc llanTrisanT confirMs iTs ManUfacTUring wisdoMRPC Containers Llantrisant has developed a bespoke plastic bottle to provide Wisdom Toothbrushes with a fresh new appearance for its extended range of mouthwashes. Renowned for more than 200 years for its expertise in toothbrushes, Wisdom wanted to relaunch its complementary range of mouthwash products with an exciting, revitalized look. In addition to two existing flavours, Wisdom Fresh Effect Freshmint and Coolmint, Wisdom is launching two new products, Wisdom Fresh Effect Whitening and Fresh Effect Total Care, using the new container. “The intention was to develop a bottle design that would be unique to Wisdom and offer us the maximum amount of impact and stand-out on shelf,” explains Eleanor Farrant, Marketing Manager at Wisdom. “At the same time, it was vital that the bottle had a larger labelling area for increased communication of the products’ benefits.” As one of Wisdom’s incumbent packaging suppliers, RPC LLantrisant was recommended by the brand’s manufacturing partners as the ideal candidate to devise the new bottle. Blow-moulded in PET, the handy 500 mL size combines tapered sides with a pleasingly curved base for an eye-catching overall effect. After filling, it is closed with a dosing cap and labelled with vivid new designs that highlight the prestigious Wisdom name to its full advantage (www.rpc-llantrisant.co.uk).
Marchesini open hoUse From 18–22 October, Marchesini will open its doors to customers, the press and anyone who’d like to take a closer look at how the company serves the pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging markets. The Open House event (Pianoro, Italy) will be an opportunity to present Marchesini’s state-of-the-art technology, cutting-edge solutions and novel innovations. Many new products for the packaging of solid and powder products will be on show, including five complete blister lines (MB460, MB451 Evolution, MB430 and Integra 200), a complete counting line and the new MSP560 stickpack filler. In the liquid production area, a robotic “No Contact” syringe line will be displayed, as well as the new FSP5 syringe filler and the Steril 200 vial filler. Dedicated areas will focus on track and trace, robotics and after sales. In all, 15 complete lines and 70 machines will be showcased. Last, but by no means least, the engineering department will illustrate how the company’s widespread foreign network is organized and able to serve every corner of the globe (www.marchesini.com).
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8 autumn 2010
News
powerfUl anTiageing properTiesOne year after successfully launching its biomimetic TEGO Pep 4-17, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has published further studies to support the peptide’s already established activity. Previously, in-house trials demonstrated that the skin was perceivably smoother when TEGO Pep 4-17 was used. Likewise, the study revealed a reduction in skin roughness and strong skin-firming activity. Now, further in vivo clinical testing, conducted by Prof. Krutman from IUF Düsseldorf (Germany), has shown a significant increase in the amount of collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin in the dermis. Thus, TEGO Pep 4-17 is able to boost the most important components of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is an important factor for antiageing products. Another facial antiwrinkle study, done at an independent test institute, verified that this skin-identical peptide improves all kinds of periorbital wrinkles, resulting in superior antiageing efficacy. This innovative active ingredient is designed for use in antiageing preparations, as well as antiwrinkle eye care products (www.evonik.com).
Mascaras Take The plUngeINTERPOLYMER has added to its Bimodal Technology Platform for the personal care market. SYNTRAN PC 5775 is exclusively designed for water-resistant mascara, eyeliner and colour cosmetic formulations. Its film forming properties provide quick-setting, superior water-resistance, adhesion and flexibility. INTERPOLYMER’s innovative bimodal technology employs an interpenetrating network of cationic and anionic polymer chains, and SYNTRAN PC 5775 is specifically engineered to deliver enhanced hydrophobic properties for longer-wear formulations. A mascara formulation based on SYNTRAN 5775
demonstrated better resistance to wash-off after water immersion (15 minutes) compared with other film formers. SYNTRAN PC 5775 provides the end-user with a long-lasting water-resistant mascara or eyeliner. It not only reduces smudging and improves the long-lasting effect, but also resists wash-off when in contact with water or tears. The company is also highlighting its newly developed paraben-free grades of SYNTRAN polymers to meet the demands of formulators and maintain global acceptance (www.interpolymer.com).
verTese laUnches “good looking” sUppleMenTAfter identifying a gap in the market for a vegetarian and vegan-friendly beauty supplement, Vertese, a Brunel Healthcare brand, has launched gelatin-free “Skin, Hair and Eyes” capsules. The brand is renowned for being a pioneer in the supplement market and, true to form, Skin, Hair and Eyes has a completely unique combination of properties. Skin, Hair and Eyes contains the natural antioxidant Lutein, which is widely recognized as a key eye health ingredient. The product is Vertese’s first foray into the lucrative “Beauty from Within” sector and the launch aims to introduce new consumers to the brand. Vertese Marketing Manager, Lizzie Hardy, explains: “The brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base because of our commitment to using only vegetarian-friendly ingredients. Increasingly, we were hearing from our consumers that they wanted a vegetarian beauty supplement; so, after extensive research, we developed Skin, Hair and Eyes. The product remains true to our vegan credentials but we anticipate that it will attract new consumers to the Vertese range as it is the only product on the market that combines ingredients to help support eye sight, as well as skin and hair.” Visit www.vertese.com for further details.
The Vertese brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base
because of our commitment to using only vegetarian-friendly ingredients.
2010 autumn
BoTanical BaBy rangeCanada’s leading supplier of upscale vanity mirrors and cosmetic bags for nearly 50 years, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd, is proud to be entering the UK with Naturally Baby, their newest addition to the best-selling botanical body care and gift brand, under the Upper Canada Soap banner. With the natural trend taking on greater momentum in the baby, pregnancy and children’s markets, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd anticipates strong results in the UK for the Naturally Baby range, which is being sold in more than 500 retail outlets across the UK in 2010. “Naturally Baby is a great brand extension of the popular Naturally Upper Canada Range. It provides great value and an ideal gift item,” said Brett Bateman, Managing Director, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd UK. Made from all natural, gentle ingredients and free from parabens, mineral oils, SLS and synthetic dyes, Naturally Baby stands out as a competitively priced range with an eco-positioning. A gentle wild mint lime fragrance is subtle and fresh, yet luxurious, but will not irritate baby’s sensitive skin. With five unique SKUs to cover all baby’s needs, the Naturally Baby range has widespread appeal for gift boutiques, independents and eco-retailers alike. The upscale, eye-catching design of the Naturally Baby range boasts soft unisex colours and adorable images, whereas the products are packaged in tinted bottles to accentuate the natural brand positioning and protect the product from sun damage. Well priced and attractive, the Naturally Baby range makes for an ideal gift year-round (http://uppercanadasoap.com).
advanced personal care MaTerials froM MoMenTiveMomentive Performance Materials (www.momentive.com) has announced two new personal care products: Silsoft AX conditioning agent and Tospearl AQ microspheres. These breakthrough materials, which are available globally, are another example of Momentive’s heritage: almost 70 years of being first to market with technology based solutions that positively impact and improve everyday life. Silsoft AX conditioning agent can help manufacturers of hair care products to offer enhanced sleekness, shine and manageability for hair. In hair care formulations, the molecular structure of Silsoft AX conditioning agent may significantly enhance the smoothness and softness of damaged and undamaged hair, without stickiness or greasiness, while improving colour retention. Tospearl AQ microspheres can provide a smoother and silkier sensory experience, enhanced blurring of fine lines and wrinkles, and improved rub-in for water-based skincare formulations, sunscreens, antiageing products and moisturizers. Stable at low pH, Tospearl AQ microspheres are coated with a cationic polymer. Because of this coating, the product can be incorporated easily into the water phase of oil-in-water emulsions. “These new products continue Momentive’s tradition of providing powerful new solutions for personal care formulators as they develop the higher-performance products that consumers are demanding,” said Beatriz Blanco, global marketing director, Momentive. “We are committed to putting the best science and advanced research to work for our customers.”
oUTdoor proTecTion froM Beyond coasTalFrom the mountains to the ocean, and everywhere in between, Beyond Coastal has developed a range of sun care products for active outdoor lifestyles. With natural ingredients such as grape seed, algae extract, green tea and others, outdoor people need not worry about overly dry or oily skin or suffer the effects of chemical-laden sunscreens with Beyond Coastal. The company’s Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is water resistant and won’t sting the eyes. It protects, nourishes, repairs and hydrates. Containing antioxidant and antiageing ingredients, Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is formulated in accordance with the Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standard and the EWG’s Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, guaranteeing a clean healthy sunscreen. Active Daily 30 SPF is specifically designed for high sun exposure activities with maximum UVA protection. It’s fast absorbing, non-greasy and water-resistant. Provitamin B, shea butter and rose hip oil moisturize and help to maintain skin cell balance. Natural antioxidants from yerba mate, green tea and algae extract scavenge free radicals and restore skin tone. Beyond Coastal also offers a Kids Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen for children with sensitive skin. With an SPF rating of 30 and naturally active Zn and Ti, Kids Natural provides powerful UVA protection. Extra shea and cocoa butter help to keep your children’s skin smooth and soft and aloe, comfrey, grape seed and green tea are natural antioxidant skin restorers. It’s also fragrance-, oil- and paraben-free. Finally, Beyond Coastal’s all natural broad-spectrum lip balm offers powerful UVA protection with micronized zinc oxide. Hydrating beeswax moisturizes the lips, keeping them naturally soft, smooth and young (www.beyondcoastal.com).
9
With an extensive marketing programme, we are confident we will get consumers’ attention and interest nationwide.
Show Preview
The cosmetics and
toiletries market
in Asia is set to
grow 16% by 2012.
With the continent
being home to half of the world’s
population, and boasting a
sustained economic growth rate,
there is — naturally — huge scope
for development in this area. With
that in mind, there couldn’t be
a better time for the continent’s
leading personal care ingredients
exhibition to stage its return to
one of the hubs of the Asian
cosmetics industry. Promising to
be the most exciting event in its
3-year history, in-cosmetics Asia
will take place on 2–4 November
at BITEC, Bangkok, with more
than 200 leading cosmetics
suppliers set to showcase a
spectacular range of new and
innovative cosmetic ingredients
and services to R&D, production
and marketing specialists. To
highlight the importance of the
event, major industry players will
have a presence at this year’s
event, including Cognis, Croda,
Dow Corning, DSM and ISP
Asia Pacific. In addition, 41 new
exhibitors will also be making
their debut at the show. First-time
exhibitors keen to capitalize on
the fact that Thailand’s cosmetic
manufacturers import 90% of their
ingredients will include Breko,
Cobiosa, Green Flower Cosmetics
and CP Kelco, to name a few.
In addition to a host of
international exhibitors from more
than 21 countries, there will also
be a strong regional presence
at in-cosmetics Asia, including
companies from China, Hong
Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia,
Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan
and Thailand, all highlighting the
very latest Asian developments.
With visitor registration already
up 58% on the 2009 event, there
is sure to be plenty of business
activity and interaction.
in-cosmetics Asia will also
deliver its best ever educational
programme, featuring a new
Innovation Zone, the Facial
Beauty Conference, Regulation
and Formulation workshops,
Marketing Trends Presentations
and Innovation Seminars,
providing an unmissable
opportunity for visitors to enhance
their commercial, scientific and
marketing knowledge.
UniqUe visiTor aTTracTionsFor the first time this year, the
show will have an entire section
dedicated to the industry’s
most cutting-edge products.
The Innovation Zone will house
the latest ingredient launches
from the likes of Bioland, Croda,
Mibelle Biochemistry, Lubrizol,
Regeron, Thor (represented by
Chemico) and IRB, as well as a
mix of prestige and mass market
beauty and grooming products
sourced by Mintel, enabling
visitors to quickly identify the
major industry launches. Daily
demonstrations by Mintel will also
be part of the feature. Facial
beauty is one of the hottest topics
on the Asian skincare industry
agenda and will play a pivotal
role at the show this year. The
Facial Beauty Conference, held
during the second day of the
exhibition, will see renowned
international specialists present
on topics in three key areas:
skin whitening, antiageing and
antiacne. Skin whitening is an
extremely profitable sector in Asia.
Worth an estimated $18 billion on
the continent alone, the industry
has been rapidly accelerating
since the 1970s, providing huge
commercial opportunities for
global cosmetic manufacturers
to profit from the trend. Speakers
presenting at the Conference will
include Dr Nopadon, President
of the Thailand Dermatology
Society, Fabrice Perin, Director
at Spincontrol Asia and Romuald
Vallee, Scientific and Industrial
Manager at Codif International.
The antiageing phenomenon
also continues to gather
momentum, with the worldwide
market expected to reach $115.5
billion by the end of 2010, and
Asia-Pacific is a big contributor
to this. Dr Helen Knaggs from Nu
Skin, Dr Panvipa Krisdaphong,
Director at Dermscan Asia, Dr Liki
von Oppen-Bezalel, VP Business
Development and Marketing
at IBR Ltd and Dr Gilles Pauly,
Scientific Director at Laboratoires
Sérobiologiques, will look at
approaches to the issue of
antiageing. Fair and flawless
skin is a number one priority for
Asians. However, pollution and
humidity in Asia has aggravated
skin problems for many people,
meaning the demand for
medicated skincare and antiacne
treatments has soared. Experts
presenting in this strand will
include Dr Simon Young, Director
of Regulatory and External Affairs
at Unilever Asia, Dr Alain Khaiat,
President of Seers Consulting
and Prof. Dr Johann W. Wiechers,
President of JW Solutions.
regUlaTe and forMUlaTeThere will be a series of theoretical
and practical workshops at
in-cosmetics Asia this year, delving
into two of the industry’s hottest
topics: regulations and formulation.
Following the launch of the new EU
Cosmetics Regulation, cofounder
and president of Biorius, Jean-
Jacques Bourgois will address
“Regulations for Exporting to
Europe,” whereas Prof. Dr Johann
Wiechers will examine “Basic and
Advanced Formulation.” Jean-
energizing The
Asian BeaUTy BUsinessin-cosmetics Asia gears up for its most spectacular event yet!
10 autumn 2010
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Jacques will explore the key issues
that Asian exporters must address
by examining an in-depth study of
ISO GMP Standards, which gives
guidelines for the production,
control, storage and shipment of
cosmetic products. Meanwhile,
“HLB in Action: Theory and Practice
of Stabilizing Topical Formulations”
will be critical for those keen to
master physical stability — one of
the fundamental principals behind
cosmetic formulation. “Effective
Formulating Beyond HLB: Advance
Level” will teach delegates how
to optimize the physical stability,
sensory characteristics and active
skin delivery of a formulation all
at once.
The comprehensive
educational programme will
also include another highly
popular feature, the Marketing
Trends Presentations. This year’s
agenda will feature three
streams: trends, country focus
and practical advice, with
highlights including “Natural
Trends and Sustainability” from
Kline, “Brands, Islam and the New
Muslim Consumer” by Ogilvy,
“Antiageing in Japan” from
Hinako Sugioka Israel of Mintel,
“Halal Cosmetics: Embracing
Universal Values” by Darhim
Hashim of the Halal Integrity
Alliance and a presentation
on the marketing opportunities
opened up by the China-ASEAN
Free Trade Agreement from
Access Asia. Those keen to
discover more about the latest
ingredients and formulation
techniques can do so at the
Innovation Seminars. All 21 slots
have already been filled by the
likes of Rhodia Asia, presenting
on “Efficient Rheology Control
for Cleansing Formulations,” DSM
Nutritional Products highlighting
“A Multifunctional Approach
to Skin Lightening” and Indena
looking at “Zanthelene: A Novel
Lifting Agent” … and many more.
in-cosmetics Asia attracts
leading ingredient and raw
material suppliers, enabling
visitors to discover new, innovative
products and services whilst
boosting their business, scientific
and technical knowledge.
Attendees will benefit from all the
major players being under one
roof and meeting with experts
whilst discussing the next big
trends in the growing personal
care market. phM
for More inforMaTionin-cosmetics Asia2–4 November 2010BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand.www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
12 autumn 2010
Skincare
appearing earlier
on the face than
other types of
wrinkle — in people
as young as 30 —
could be a reason why expression
lines are a key target for the
cosmetic industry. Consumer
research suggests that antiageing
is no longer just a concern for
middle-aged consumers looking
to reverse the effects of time,
younger people are also seeking
preventive, age-defying solutions
(Mintel, 2010).1
It has been a long and fruitful
journey since Lipotec introduced
its first peptide specifically
designed to attenuate expression
lines, stimulating the market
and promoting research into
alternative solutions. That launch,
although significant, is clearly
not the only reason behind
the company’s pioneering
status in this field. Important
technological advances have
yielded further innovative
discoveries, specifically designed
to diminish this unpleasant sign
of ageing. Rapid improvements
in wrinkle reduction have been
supported by an integrated
research and development
programme that has focused,
at the cellular level, at both pre-
and post-synaptic activity and
a wide range of science-based
actives that target different
aspects of muscle contraction,
the fundamental origin of this
premature ageing sign. The
concept of molecular cosmetics
has been used to identify the
independent mechanisms that
lead to the muscle relaxation
required to attenuate expression
wrinkles. It has not been an easy
undertaking and would not
have been possible without the
company’s inherent and strong
commitment to innovation,
and its continued investment in
sustained R&D.
a parTicUlar Type of wrinkleExpression wrinkles or mimic
lines such as frown lines and
crow’s feet are formed by
the constant action of the
corresponding facial muscle,
as a result of blinking, smiling or
frowning. They are a natural part
of ageing. As you grow older,
your skin gets thinner, drier and
less elastic … and it becomes
more susceptible to damage.
More Than a facT of lifeThe modern-day cosmetic industry specializes
in a wide variety of skincare strategies, using a
large number of facial care ingredients to tackle
a whole gamut of cosmetic functionalities,
from acne, skin brightening and firming to DNA
damage … to name but a few. One of the most
common and premature signs of ageing, in both
women and men, is expression wrinkles; solutions
to this side-effect of age continue to drive
innovation in the sector, offering new launches
every year and remaining a highly popular focus
in the antiageing market.
keeping Up wiTh innovaTion The cosmetic industry is, inherently, one of the most energetic; even so, it appears to be gathering pace and developing even faster these days. Lipotec, as a company committed to innovation, is delighted to be attending in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok and presenting the latest improvements to its wide range of molecular actives. Owing to its proven efficacy to increase cell tolerance against daily stressors, such as UV radiation, extreme temperatures or jet-lag, to name but a few, Thermostressine will definitely be a key ingredient in the fight for stress-free skin at this year’s event. Lipotec’s team, supported by its distribution partners, will be pleased to meet you at the exhibition, update you about this new launch and discuss other approaches that keep Lipotec at the forefront of antiageing technology. As with Inyline, the cosmetic ingredient designed to safely induce post-synaptic muscle relaxation, this molecular active will be also be discussed in the “Two Complementary Synaptic Mechanisms Targeting Expression Lines” innovation seminar (2 November at 12:00). Please visit Stand D40 for more information (www.lipotec.com).
Figure 1: Mechanisms of action of Lipotec’s antwrinkle actives.
132010 autumn
As a result, wrinkles, lines and
creases form in your skin. With
time, and exacerbated by
unhealthy habits and/or external
stressors, these lines progressively
become permanent. Because of
how they form, the age at which
they appear and the facial
area in which they develop,
the treatment of expression
wrinkles required an exacting
scientific approach. Any
reliable cosmetic solution,
therefore, had to target
the origin — the muscle
contraction mechanism.
independenT BUT coMBinaBle sTraTegiesMuscle contraction involves both
a motor neuron, a neuromuscular
junction (NMJ) — where the axons
of motor nerves meet the muscle,
thus transmitting messages from
the brain that cause the muscle
to contract and relax — and the
associated muscle fibre. Whereas
the motor neuron contributes
to the presynaptic pathway by
releasing the neurotransmitter,
acetylcholine (ACh), the post-
synaptic muscle fibre — with ACh
receptors (AChR) on its surface
— binds the neurotransmitter,
which creates an action
potential that leads to muscle
contraction. Lipotec’s expertise
on this field has provided
the cosmetic industry with
cutting-edge muscle relaxation
solutions to attenuate expression
wrinkles using independent but
combinable strategies.
• Presynaptically, using actives
that inhibit the release of
ACh from the motor neuron
(Argireline, SNAP-8 or Leuphasyl)
• Post-synaptically, using actives
designed to prevent the
ligand-to-receptor (ACh–AChR)
binding responsible for the
formation of the action
potential (Inyline).
Designed to mimic the
N-terminal end of SNAP-25,
a protein that plays a key
role in muscle stimulation,
Argireline and SNAP-8 both act
presynaptically to compete with
the naturally occurring protein for
a position in the SNARE complex,
an essential step for synaptic ACh
release. Consequently, as the
vesicle is unable to release ACh
from the motor neuron, muscle
contraction is attenuated. An
in vivo trial showed a decrease
in furrow depth of 16.26% after
30 days of treatment with a
cream containing a 5% Argireline
solution.
Recognized to modulate
vesicle fusion with the cellular
membrane by closing the
calcium channels, Leuphasyl
also demonstrated good in vivo
results, reducing wrinkles by an
average of 11.64% with a 5%
formulation. The additional
value for manufacturers is that
a combination of the three
peptides is entirely feasible. After
using a solution comprising 5%
Argireline and 5% Leuphasyl,
a mean decrease of 24.62% —
reaching a maximum of 46.53%
— was observed, confirming in
vivo the combined effects of the
individual treatments.
Inyline works post-synaptically,
acting once ACh has been
released from motor neuron but
before the signal is transmitted
to the AChRs. Its antiwrinkle
efficacy was trialled with a
cream (5% Inyline solution) and
showed a significant decrease
in wrinkle depth of 14.9% after
28 days of treatment. Inyline, a
novel hexapeptide designed
using molecular modelling,
reduces the activation of MuSK
(Muscle-Specific Kinase) by
blocking the agrin binding
site. As such, it disrupts
AChR clustering, one of the
requirements for ACh to trigger
the contraction signal along
the NMJ. Not only does Inyline
represent a post-synaptic
strategy to minimize the
formation of expression lines by
targeting a specific biological
mechanism, it’s also another
example of why Lipotec is a
genuine ally in the fight against
premature skin ageing (Figure 1).
conclUsionFrom concept to full product
market placement, Lipotec’s
approach to expression
wrinkle treatment is an integral
process that brings a variety of
independent but combinable
cosmetic actives together
to target different aspects of
muscle contraction. A global
combinatorial chemistry-based
research effort, supported by
the most advanced techniques
and methods — such as
high-throughput screening or
molecular modelling — were
used, depending on the
mechanism of interest. What
should be common to all claims
is what the skin actually requires:
genuinely active ingredients
that act safely on a specific
type of line or wrinkle to prevent
them becoming indelible. Both
presynaptic and post-synaptic
approaches have been shown
to reliably attenuate expression
wrinkles, by inhibiting the release
of ACh or preventing it from
binding to its receptors on the
muscle fibre, so impeding muscle
contraction. The high level of
efficacy of the molecular actives
involved confirms their ability
to target wrinkle formation,
both independently and in
combination. It is an example of
a molecular cosmetic approach
to reduce the depth of a
common sign of ageing. phM
reference1. Mintel, Skincare: Facial Care
(March 2010).
Molecular cosmetics is about scientific rigor and committed research, using rigorous techniques and approaches to treat and prevent a specific target with an innovative range of molecular actives.
for More inforMaTionRaquel Merino, Marketing and Communication, and Míriam Mateu, DocumentationLipotec Isaac Peral, 17E-08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain.Tel. +34 9 3638 [email protected]
Argireline® and Leuphasyl® are registered trademarks, and Inyline™ is a trademark, of Lipotec SA (Spain).
14 autumn 2010
Skincare
a randomized
placebo-
controlled trial has
demonstrated the
synergistic effect
of Institut Rosell-Lallemand’s
probiotic preparation, Lacidofil,
and emollient treatment on
young children with atopic
dermatitis (AD) and cow milk
allergy. This clinical study,
conducted by Dr Chernyshov
(National Medical University,
Kiev, Ukraine) showed a
significant effect of the probiotic
treatment on AD severity and
the use of corticosteroids.
Moreover, immunological
studies showed the probiotic to
have an immunomodulating
effect, indicating a shift towards
immune tolerance in allergic
patients. These results reinforce a
previous study that demonstrated
Lacidofil’s ability to reduce AD
severity and improve Quality of
Life indices in young patients and
their parents. Atopic dermatitis
has become a widespread health
concern affecting as many as
20% of preschool children and
about one in 20 adults. The
randomized study involved 58
children under the age of 4 with
atopic dermatitis and cow milk
allergy. All the children were
treated with an emollient cream
and a bath preparation. In
addition, 30 children received a
once-daily capsule (equivalent
to 2 billion probiotic bacteria)
of Lacidofil — a combination
of Lactobacillus Rosell-11 and
Lactobacillus Rosell-52 — for one
month. The other 28 children
received a placebo. The extent
and severity of AD was evaluated
using the SCORAD Index and
immunological parameters were
also assessed at day 0 and 30.1
When compared with the
placebo group, the probiotic
treatment induced
• a marked reduction of AD
severity (SCORAD index) in
63.3% of children compared
with 32.1% (p = 0.02)
• a steroid-sparing effect (10% of
children used a steroid cream
compared with 32% in the
placebo group)
• community a significant
reduction of AD severity in
patients who did not use the
topical steroid (SCORAD index
from 30.6–20.9; p>0.01 in the
probiotic group, no significant
difference in the placebo
group)
• a significant decrease in a
certain subset of activated T
cells, potentially associated
with AD
• an increase of a subtype of
antibodies directed against
cow milk allergen (IgG4),
considered to be a marker for
immune-tolerance.
The investigators of the trial
concluded that: “In our study,
more patients treated with
Lacidofil achieved satisfactory
clinical results with fewer
episodes of the use of topical
corticosteroids than those who
received a placebo. It was shown
that the probiotic preparation
had a synergistic effect with
the emollient, reducing AD
severity and reinforcing its
corticosteroid-sparing effect. The
synergistic action of Lacidofil-
plus-emollient was also confirmed
by immunologic changes that
may be considered to be a shift
to immune tolerance. Emollients
and probiotics have different
modes of action and could be
combined with each other and
with other medications in AD
patients. Solutions with potential
steroid-sparing effects in AD
patients are extremely important.”
Atopic Dermatitis (AD) or atopic
eczema is an inflammatory,
chronically relapsing, non-
contagious and pruritic skin
disorder. It is a very common
condition that represents a major
public health problem worldwide.
Its prevalence has markedly
increased during the past decade
and it is considered to affect as
many as 20% of preschool children
in Western Europe. One in three
children with AD will retain the
condition in adult life. An estimated
one in 20 adults has AD. There is
no absolutely efficient treatment.
According to the International
Consensus Conference on Atopic
Dermatitis (ICCAD II), treatment
of a patient with AD is based
on a combination of auxiliary
basic therapy, anti-inflammatory
preparations and the identification
and elimination of inducing factors
whenever possible. Common
treatments include the regular use
of emollients (moisturizers) and
topical steroids. AD strongly affects
the Quality of Life of patients and
their family. Until now, data about
probiotic efficiency in AD patients
were disparate. In a recent
meta-analysis of ten randomized
controlled trials, probiotics were
found to reduce the severity of AD
in approximately half of the trials
evaluated.2 phM
Probiotic Lacidofil reduces the severity of atopic dermatitis and shows a corticosteroid-sparing effect in young children.
for More inforMaTionSylvie Roquefeuil DedieuPress OfficerInstitut Rosell-LallemandTel. +33 6 8472 7610sroquefeuil-dedieu@rosell.comwww.institut-rosell-lallemand.com
proBioTics and skincarea case sTUdy
references1. P.V. Chernyshov, “Randomized,
Placebo-Controlled Trial on Clinical and Immunologic Effects of Probiotic Containing Lactobacillus rhamnosus R0011 and L. helveticus R0052 in Infants with Atopic Dermatitis,” Microb. Ecol. Health Dis. 21(3–4), 228–232 (2009).
2. S.K. Michail, et al., “Efficacy of Probiotics in the Treatment of Pediatric Atopic Dermatitis: A Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials,” Ann. Allergy Asthma Immunol. 101(5), 508–516 (2008).
16 autumn 2010
Skincare
But it’s not just the
cosmetic angle that
Thais are devoting
so much of their time
and effort to recreate.
The pollution and humid weather
conditions in South and South
East Asia have long been the
cause of many an aggravated
skin problem for Asian consumers,
meaning a high proportion of
the population now suffers from
acne and demand for medicated
skincare and antiacne treatments
has soared. In 2009, the Asia-
Pacific market for these products
was worth approximately $119.5
million — according to Euromonitor
International — and this is
predicted to rise by more than 17%
to a140.4 million by 2014. But what
is the root cause of this problem?
Acne is a skin condition that
affects 90% of teenagers around
the world. It can be categorized
into three types — mild, moderate
and severe — depending on the
severity of the visible skin lesions.
Acne vulgaris is a condition
affecting the pilosebaceous unit.
It is an inflammatory disorder of
the sebaceous gland that results
in comedones, papules, pustules
and occasional nodules.
It begins during puberty when
there is a burst of hormone
activity. Testosterone plays an
important role, being reduced
into dihydrotestosterone [DHT] by
an enzyme — 5-alpha reductase
— in the sebaceous gland.
DHT stimulates the sebaceous
gland to release sebum, which
leads to oily skin. The sebum is a
mixture of triglycerides that are
hydrolysed into free fatty acids
(FFA) of lower viscosity. One of the
hypotheses suggested some time
ago was that triglycerides acted
as the feedback mechanism by
regulating the oil secretion. As
such, the more hydrolysis that takes
place, the less feedback and,
thereby, the more sebum secretion
and excretion there is. The excess
oil sticks dead skin cells and the
pilosebaceous walls together,
creating a plug and enlarging the
pore. If the pore remains open, the
cells and the sebum will oxidize to
give a black colour. This is known as
a blackhead or open comedone.
If a membrane of skin closes the
pore, it is known as a whitehead or
a closed comedone.
The mixture of dead cells and
oil creates the ideal environment
for bacteria — Propionibacterium
acnes — to grow and reproduce.
The bacterial lipases further
hydrolyse the sebum and
increase secretion, whilst the
acidity of the free fatty acids
leads to inflammation. This
inflammation creates free radicals
that increase hyperkeratinization
and, in turn, help bacterial
proliferation. In countries where
acne products are regulated as
drugs, there is often an approved
list of ingredients that can be
used, with benzoyl peroxide
(BPO), salicylic acid and sulphur
being among the more common
ones. However, as these are
antibacterial actives, it means
that the regulators have only
considered one aspect of acne
physiology; the consequences as
opposed to the cause.
Conversely, modern products
tend to address other aspects
of the cycle, leading to more
efficient, milder products that have
a better compatibility with the skin.
Most will combine salicylic acid
(which is oil soluble) and benefits
from anti-inflammatory ingredients.
These usually enable the lesion
to disappear in one to three
days of continuous treatment,
rather than seven to ten days with
antibacterial products alone. Acne
is not a simple microinfection. It
is a complex mechanism that
starts with an increase in sebum
production. Today, only about
10–20% of people with acne
use products in an attempt
to cure it, with most resorting
to physically squeezing the
pimples. Many people think this
is the result of an inadequate
product offering, with many
solutions reported as creating
dryness and irritation. Inevitably,
research amongst teenagers
confirms they want the problem
to disappear overnight without
the associated dryness or
redness, so that is the next
challenge for the global
cosmetics industry. phM
in-cosMeTics asia faces Up To skincare
Facial beauty is a lucrative business in Asia. Appearance has become a particularly important concern for Thais of both genders and of all age segments, with society favouring the fair and flawless look. The increasing number of dermatological clinics, particularly in urban regions, is testament to this growing trend, with consumers being more than willing to spend their disposable income on treatments and high-end skincare products.
for More inforMaTionDr Alain Khaiat, PhDPresident of Seers [email protected]
anTiacne presenTaTionAlain Khaiat will be presenting on The Physiology of Acne at the in-cosmetics Asia Facial Beauty Conference on 3 November at 16:55–17:25. The show takes place on 2–4 November at BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand. Visit www.in-cosmeticsasia.com for more details.
Alain Khaiat
in-cosMeTics asia faces Up To skincare
Skincare
18 autumn 2010
The natural
desquamation
process creates
new skin cells at
the basal level
and, as these skin cells age,
they navigate to the top of
the epidermis and then shed
away. The normal cell cycle
ranges from 26–42 days. This
process functions effortlessly
during the initial decades of
life; but, as we age, the process
becomes delinquent and
needs assistance. Chemical
exfoliation is the equivalent of a
cellular jumpstart — recreating
the ideal skin renewal process.
The most widely recognized
alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids
are lactic, glycolic, salicylic,
Modified Jessner and TCA
(trichloroacetic acid). These
acids will cause superficial
skin cells to desquamate at an
increased rate and will normalize
the exuviation process. Glycolic
acid is a universal ingredient
and has a broad range of uses.
It has a low molecular weight
of 76 daltons that results in rapid
absorption. Lactic acid will
reduce corneocyte cohesion in
the stratum corneum, leading
to reduced trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL), a more even
distribution of melanocytes
and increased epidermal
thickening. Salicylic acid is
lipophilic; it will penetrate the
skin through the pore and
then digest the debris and oil
present in the follicle. It is also
an antibacterial acid, making
it beneficial for hyperkeratosis,
acne, rosacea, oily and textured/
rough skin. Modified Jessner
is a chemical exfoliant that is
named after a New York-based
dermatologist who advocated
the use of 14% lactic acid,
salicylic acid and resorcinol as a
treatment for oily skin, acne and
hyperpigmentation fine lines. It
is often used as a combination
treatment. TCA causes protein
coagulation and will minimize
rhytides, hyperpigmentation,
uneven texture and acne scars.
Chemical exfoliants are
classified by their depth of
penetration into the skin, ranging
from light, more superficial
treatments to advanced
exfoliation, depending on the
skin’s specific needs. There are
multiple ways to individualize
a programme and make a
treatment more or less aggressive
to best suit each client. The
beauty therapist has the ability to
design a customized programme
to foster the results that best
align with the client’s lifestyle
and needs. There are many
factors to be considered with
chemical exfoliation treatment.
These factors will determine
the outcome of the treatment,
the overall performance
and depth of the chemical
exfoliation. Just as important as
the acid percentage is the pH
level. The lower the pH of the
chemical exfoliant, the higher
the free acid amount that can
penetrate. Side-effects of a
low pH include irritation and
erythema. When formulating,
careful consideration is required
to create a product that has a
low enough pH for penetration
but results in minimal irritation to
the client. In general, the pH of
a professional peel will be in the
range of 1–2.5.
During the treatment, the
beauty therapist has many
opportunities to customize the
procedure. Lactic and glycolic
acid are monitored according
to the length of time they’re on
the skin whereas salicylic acid,
Modified Jessner and TCA are
applied in layers. To increase
intensity, the peels can be left
for longer on the skin or applied
in multiple layers. More abrasive
navigaTe yoUr skin To radianT BeaUTy wiTh cheMical exfoliaTionWould you like a healthy glow, softened fine lines and reduced wrinkles? Does an even tone, softer,
smoother skin, softened sunspots and/or controlled oil production and breakouts sound appealing?
Without embellishment, these are the results of a programme consisting of chemical exfoliation
treatments and homecare products: the application of science-created ingredients called alpha- and
beta-hydroxy acids that loosen intercellular bonds and promote the release of dead skin cells.
finishing ToUchesExfoliation treatments can be enhanced with the use of an end-stage serum.• gloSuper Serum: antiageing benefits with 1% retinol• gloRenew: 1% retinol, 7% glycolic and 2% salicylic acid to moderately
increases exfoliation• gloRetinol CS: 3% retinol to aggressively increase exfoliation• gloLightening Serum: 2% hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation• gloBrightening Serum: a natural alternative for hyperpigmentation• gloTriple Action Serum: 2% hydroquinone, 1% retinol, 1% glycolic acid for
hyperpigmentation.
applicators and increased
pressure will enhance circulation
and promote deeper absorption.
A “peel prep” should be used
prior to the chemical exfoliation
process to degrease the skin.
Varying prep options include
the use of citric, cholic and
gallic acid to reduce sebum
and break up oil — or glycolic
acid at 30% to make a treatment
more aggressive. After applying
the chemical exfoliant, retinol
or retinoic acid may be used to
increase intensity. Typically, this
will cause skin sloughing because
vitamin A stimulates cell renewal.
You can customize the end of the
treatment with any of a number
of serums, depending on the
skin’s needs. Apply the serum
that is best suited to the client to
enhance the results (see sidebar).
hoMecare prodUcTsFor optimal results, prepare the
skin with exfoliants at least 2–4
weeks prior to the first treatment.
Skin conditioning will create a
more uniform peel and allow
the acid to reach a deeper level
of exfoliation. The intangible
assets of skin prepping provide
the beauty therapist with a
preview of how the client’s
skin will respond to chemical
exfoliation. If the client has a
lot of skin sloughing, then the
beauty therapist will be more
cautious with the treatment. If
the client has minimal response,
the beauty therapist can then
be more aggressive with the
treatment. Adherence to home
therapy and treatments will
yield optimal results. Similar to a
weight loss programme, wherein
a workout regimen paired with
healthy eating will help to shift
the pounds, without adherence
to both aspects, the goal will not
be achieved as quickly. Thus, a
series of positive acts involving
products and treatments will
bring the client to his or her
skincare end-result sooner.
After treatment, the skin
goes through a rejuvenation
period requiring products
that are healing and provide
nourishment. These essential
products will optimize the
rejuvenation process by
nourishing and healing the skin.
The client should keep their
skin cool and soothed during
the healing process. The use
of growth factors will support
the skin and provide healing
benefits. Chemical exfoliation
creates a dermatological impact
and has a profound effect on
the structure of the skin. It is
often useful to take a ‘before
and after’ picture to document
the improvements and show
the client the transformation in
stages. To show the progression,
take pictures at 3-, 6- and
12-month increments. The results
will demonstrate the effect of the
process and the client will soon
become an apostle of chemical
exfoliation. Plus, a significant
amount of anecdotal evidence
supports the research behind
chemical exfoliation.
in conclUsionChemical exfoliation has
benefited from the adoption
of advances in chemistry and
formulation technologies.
Scientists now have the ability to
formulate products with broader
solubility parameters and
include additional ingredients
that offer therapeutic benefits.
Further progression down this
path will result in advanced
formulas that are more than just
simple exfoliators. phM
for More inforMaTionSarah Burns-EggenbergerCreator and Brand Manager of glotherapeutics at gloProfessionalTel. +1 303 892 8276 (US)Tel. +44 800 121 8116 (UK)[email protected]
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Skincare
20 autumn 2010
Nowadays, what every woman wants is a complexion of pure porcelain. There is an ongoing consumer trend to brighten the skin to give it a more even tone. Furthermore, skin lightening is considered to be an antiageing facet of skincare. In Asia, there is significant demand for whitening products to either lighten the skin complexion generally or to adjust variations in pigmentation. For Caucasian skin, whitening products are used to treat age spots or other forms of hyperpigmentation, such as freckles or darkly pigmented scars.
pigMenTaTion processThe pathway from exposure to
UV light to pigmentation is very
complex and contains many steps.
UV light leads to the generation of
reactive oxidants in keratinocyte
cells that, in turn, release
inflammatory mediators such as
prostaglandins, nitric oxide (NO)
and α-melanocyte-stimulating
hormone (α-MSH). There are
receptors for both prostaglandins
and α-MSH on melanocyte cells
and a lot of research has been
done on a specific receptor for
α-MSH called melanocortin 1
receptor (MC1R). After binding
with α-MSH, the receptor induces
its host melanocyte to promote
the expression of the tyrosinase
gene and to enhance dendricity.
Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting
enzyme in the synthesis of melanin
pigments. Melanin is produced
in specialized organelles, called
melanosomes, which are gradually
filled with pigments, transported
to the peripheral dendrite tips and
then transferred to the surrounding
keratinocytes. There, melanosomes
form a protective shield around the
cell nucleus, producing a uniform
skin colour.
In the past, unwanted
pigmentation was treated by
using actives that inhibited or
reduced the enzymatic activity
of tyrosinase. The whitening
actives marketed today interfere
at different stages of the
pigmentation cascade. A new
series of actives was introduced
that reportedly blocked the
transfer of melanosomes to the
keratinocytes. Another efficient
way to suppress pigmentation
would be to block the upregulation
of the expression of tyrosinase
and to inhibit the stimulation
of melanocyte dendricity. This
could be achieved by interfering
with the binding of keratinocyte
mediators to their receptors on the
melanocytes or by inhibiting the
production of these mediators.
With age spots, two types
of pigments are present, the
melanins and lipofuscin. They are
overproduced in the spot area
because of an overreaction to
UV radiation. In keratinocytes, UV
light leads to the generation of
free radicals and reactive oxygen
species that eventually leads
to the oxidation of proteins and
lipids. Oxidized proteins and lipids
form insoluble, darkly pigmented
complexes called lipofuscin.
The accumulation of oxidized
proteins, and thus lipofuscin
formation, is normally prevented
by the proteasome system. It
is a complex of proteases that
specifically recognizes damaged
proteins and then degrades them
completely. But, proteasome
activity is known to decline with
advancing age, explaining why
uneven pigmentation is a typical
symptom of old age.1 The cosmetic
approach to fading or hiding age
spots is to use whitening products
that are only applied to the spot
area. Chemical peels give more
obvious results but, if not solely
applied to the spot area, the
fading effect is minimal because
the bleaching will whiten the whole
facial area.
naTUrally effecTive Sulforaphane is a plant substance
belonging to the isothiocyanate
group. Isothiocyanates are sulphur-
containing chemicals that are
characteristic of the Brassicaceae
family. Sulforaphane works as
an indirect antioxidant.2 Direct
antioxidants, such as vitamins C
and E, can neutralize an oxidant
once and then need to be
replenished by other antioxidants.
Indirect antioxidants turn on the
expression of a series of genes that
code for cytoprotective proteins.
These proteins are enzymes that
synthesize or regenerate a lot of
The non-sTop search for efficienT whiTening
Figure 1: Effect of SulforaWhite on the expression of antioxidant enzymes. The expression of NADPH:quinone reductase 1 (NQO1), heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1) and thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1) was measured using real-time PCR.
Figure 2: Inhibition of melanin production in B-16 melanocytes.
212010 autumn
different direct antioxidants. In
cress sprouts, for example, the
sulforaphane concentration is
20–50 times higher than in mature
vegetables. Four to five day old
garden cress sprouts were used as
the raw material to produce the
commercially available ingredient,
SulforaWhite.
To distinctively treat age spots, a
cosmetic ingredient that combines
an aqueous cress sprout extract
and the soy isoflavone, genistein,
was developed (Delentigo).
Genistein is a well-known natural
inhibitor of tyrosine kinase,
which is reported to be located
on the intracellular side of the
stem cell factor (SCF) receptor.3
There are also reports of the
involvement of tyrosine kinase
in ET-1 (enthothelin-1) signalling.
The messenger molecules ET-1
and SCF are known to be highly
overproduced in age spot
areas.4 This explains the high
melanin content compared with
neighbouring, normally pigmented
skin. Therefore, genistein inhibits
the effects of SCF and — probably
— ET-1 as well on melanocytes.
Delentigo activity takes place
exclusively in the spot area without
provoking a bleach effect on the
adjacent skin.
sTUdy resUlTsExpression of antioxidant enzymes:
The capacity of SulforaWhite
to promote the expression of
antioxidant enzymes was analysed
in vitro using normal human
epidermal keratinocytes. The
method of real-time polymerase
chain reaction (PCR) was used
to measure the expression
of selected genes. Several
antioxidant enzymes were chosen
as representatives of Phase II
(carcinogen defence) enzymes.
• NADPH:quinone reductase 1
(NQO1) is a major
anticarcinogenic enzyme
with a principal role in
transforming quinones into stable
hydroquinones.
• Heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1)
is induced after exposure
to oxidative stress, such as
UV irradiation or hyperoxia,
indicating its role in cellular
defence.
• Thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1)
works together with NADPH to
control the redox balance of
the cell.
• Glutathione peroxidase (GPX1)
has a major role in the reduction
of lipid peroxides and of free
hydrogen peroxide.
The keratinocytes were grown in
standard growth medium to 80%
confluence. Then, the cells were
incubated for 24 hours with 0.05 or
0.2% SulforaWhite. After incubation,
the cells were harvested and total
RNA was extracted. Compared
with the untreated control, the
antioxidant enzyme NQO1 was
moderately stimulated at 0.05%
and strongly stimulated at 0.2%
SulforaWhite (Figure 1). HO-1 and
TrxR1 were both stimulated strongly,
even at the lower SulforaWhite
concentration. The enzyme GPX1
did not respond to SulforaWhite in
this trial.
Inhibition of melanin production:
In an in vitro study conducted on
melanocytes, the garden cress
sprout extract was shown to inhibit
melanin formation. Specific cells
(B-16 melanocytes) were cultivated
with NDP-MSH, a stable derivative
of the natural hormone α-MSH that
stimulates skin pigmentation. The
melanin content was determined
by measuring its optical density
at 405 nm and the cell viability
was evaluated in parallel using
an MTT assay. Results showed that
0.4% SulforaWhite inhibits melanin
formation induced by α-MSH by
44% (Figure 2). This activity is dose-Figure 3: In vivo test results. Skin whitening was determined by chromametric measurements after treatment with 2% SulforaWhite.
22 autumn 2010
Skincare
dependent and is not a cytotoxic
effect artifact as the MTT assay
showed.
Whitening effect of SulforaWhite: A
human clinical trial was conducted
on 22 Asian subjects aged
between 22 and 39. A cream with
2% SulforaWhite was applied twice
daily for 56 days on the inner side
of one forearm. The other forearm
was treated with a placebo
cream. The upper arm was used
as an untreated zone. Skin colour
was measured with a MINOLTA
CR300 chromameter. Whitening
is shown by increased skin clarity,
measured as lightness L*, and by an
increase in Individual Typological
Angle (ITA°). After 56 days of
use, and compared with the
placebo product, the cream with
SulforaWhite induced a significant
increase in lightness L* (+0.5 ± 0.2
AU; p = 0.004) and a significant
increase in the ITA° parameter
(+1.4 ± 0.4 AU; p = 0.004) (Figure 3).
Specific age spot whitening
with Delentigo: The cress sprout
extract turned out to be very
active in a cell-based screening
assay for modulators of the
proteasome system. Proteasome
activity was evaluated by using
the Proteasome-Glo Assay
(Promega) using a substrate whose
degradation by the proteasome
results in a luminescent signal.
Results show that the proteasome
activity in young fibroblasts
(passage 8) was 15% higher than
in old cells (passage 16) (Figure 4).
Four hours after incubation with
the cress sprout extract (0.33%),
the proteasome activity of old
fibroblasts was increased by
71%. By stimulating proteasome
activity, the cress sprout extract
can prevent or reduce the
accumulation of oxidized
proteins and thus inhibit lipofuscin
formation.
A 4% Delentigo cream was
tested in two clinical studies.
The first double-blind, placebo-
controlled study was done with 10
women aged between 47 and 77.
The test cream was applied twice
daily for 4 weeks on defined spots
as well as on normally pigmented
skin areas of one hand. The
placebo cream was applied in a
similar way to the other hand. To
analyse the skin pigmentation, the
melanin index was measured with
the Skin Pigmentation Analyzer
SPA99 (Courage and Khazaka) at
the beginning of the study and
after 4 weeks. The study results
showed that the test cream
could significantly fade the age
spots (Figure 5). After four weeks’
application and compared with
age spots treated with the placebo
cream, the melanin index had
decreased by 6.2%. There was no
difference in the melanin index
of the normally pigmented skin
treated with either the test cream
or the placebo.
conclUsionsA garden cress sprout extract was
demonstrated to exert a significant
whitening activity. The results of
the cell-based assays with B16
cells indicate that SulforaWhite
disrupts the binding of α-MSH
to its receptor on melanocytes.
The whitening mechanism of
SulforaWhite also seems to be
linked to its capacity to protect
against reactive oxidants, the very
first triggers in the pigmentation
cascade. As such, SulforaWhite
exerts a skin whitening effect and,
at the same time, protects against
premature skin ageing. Age spots
are caused by a local overreaction
to sunlight. The result is an increased
formation of two types of pigments,
namely melanin and lipofuscin.
For a treatment to be efficient, the
synthesis of both types of pigments
has to be inhibited. Genistein, a
known tyrosine kinase inhibitor, is
supposed to interfere with the SCF/
ET-1 cytokine signalling that takes
place between keratinocytes
and melanocytes (shown in
the literature to be overactive
in age spots). The cress sprout
extract blocks the activity of
the sunlight-induced paracrine
factor, α-MSH. All these activities
result in the reduced formation
of melanin. The cress sprout
extract acts as a promoter of
the cell’s own defence against
oxidative stress and as a specific
stimulator of the proteasome
system — reducing the formation of
lipofuscin. Therefore, Delentigo acts
specifically in the spot area without
inducing a bleaching effect on the
neighboring skin. phM
for More inforMaTionIrene Montaño, PhDMibelle Biochemistry AGBolimattstr. 1 CH-5033, Buchs, Switzerlandwww.mibellebiochemistry.com
Figure 4: Determination of fibroblast proteasome activity and the effect of a cress sprout extract.
Figure 5: In vivo test results. The melanin index of age spots was measured after treatment with a 4% Delentigo cream.
references1. V.A. Vernace, T. Schmidt-
Glenewinkel and M.E. Figueiredo-Pereira, “Aging and Regulated Protein Degradation: Who Has the Upper Hand?” Aging Cell 6, 599–606 (2007).
2. P. Talalay, et al., “Sulforaphane Mobilizes Cellular Defenses That Protect Skin Against Damage by UV Radiation,” Proc. Natl Acad. Sci. USA 104, 17500–17505 (2007).
3, R. Roskoski, “Signaling by Kit Protein-Tyrosine Kinase: The Stem Cell Factor Receptor,” Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 337, 1–13 (2005).
4. G.E. Costin and V.J. Hearing, “Human Skin Pigmentation: Melanocytes Modulate Skin Color in Response to Stress,” FASEB J. 21, 976–994 (2007).
strap
23 autumn 2010
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24 autumn 2010
Contract Services
outsourcing
is rapidly
developing into
one of the largest
business service
provision entities in the world.
Historically, outsourcing brands
or services had been seen as
a way to simply cut costs; now,
however, the business model is
changing and contract service
providers can deliver so much
more. Companies now outsource
both specialized and day-to-
day business functions, and cost
savings are not always the focus.
It’s more about how they invest
and profitably grow the business
for the future? These aspirations
can be achieved by bringing in
a proven external professional
resource with the capability to
support your internal commercial
teams. This gives you access to
• knowledge
• intellectual property
• added value
• technology
• expertise
• high quality human resources.
Whatever the size of the company,
outsourcing can create significant
value for your business.
whaT is oUTsoUrcing? Outsourcing is when a company
chooses to use an outside
agency/business to provide
or deliver a service that could
be — or has historically been —
managed internally. The benefits
of outsourcing range from having
access to superior service,
creativity, capability, strategic
focus, new business or a territory
and, in some cases, cost savings.
Typical examples of outsourced
services are the use of advertising
agencies, call centres, sales
support, telesales, HR, training,
IT support, logistics and other
bespoke service providers.
why oUTsoUrce? All CEOs are faced with the
challenge of delivering ongoing
sustainable profits, appeasing
shareholders and meeting
increased industry/trade margins
whilst continuing to invest in
growth. Outsourcing can provide
businesses with cost-effective
solutions to reduce internal
headcounts, allow them to
integrate outsourcing expertise
to drive growth or expand their
business into new markets without
necessarily setting up a high-cost
infrastructure. Utilizing outsourced
services enables them to invest
strategically. Clearly, outsourcing
can deliver a number of selective
options to drive profitable growth,
which adds significant value to an
organization.
Brand fosTering: The new phenoMenon!Health and beauty manufacturers
around the world are
consolidating through mergers
and acquisitions, creating huge
global organizations with large
brand portfolios. This M&A activity
effecTive oUTsoUrcing for BeTTer BUsinessPeter Burrows of Ceuta Healthcare discusses the phenomenon of outsourcing brands and explains how it can deliver cost-effective growth for your business.
252010 autumn
creates global powerhouses
that own “mega-brands,”
which receive the majority of
the companies’ focus, energy
and investment … and rightly
so! This does, however, create a
dichotomy for the newly formed
organizations as they wrestle with
the challenge of how to maximize
the value and growth potential
of the smaller brands within the
enlarged portfolio. Many of the
smaller brands (of which some
may be significant players in
specific local markets) are not
deemed worthy of any significant
investment by the corporation.
Often, these brands become
neglected — through loss of
investment and focus — leading
to brand equity erosion and the
potential death of a once loved
and trusted icon.
Larger corporations have
the option to sell smaller brands
and generate funds to invest in
their mega-brands, but this does
have some drawbacks. First, in
a portfolio there are often ‘cash
cows’ that support the investment
levels on core brands. If cash
cows are sold, the future profits
they would have generated to
invest in the core brands are lost
… and you can only sell a brand
once! Secondly, selling brands
that are strong in a specific
geography can weaken a local
affiliate’s ability to compete in that
territory. Last but not least, selling
brands (often to competitors)
can result in a more aggressive
competitive environment as the
sold brand begins to compete
for retailer shelf space and
market share as it benefits from a
more defined focus and media
investment. To overcome these
complex portfolio issues, many
organizations are choosing to
outsource or “foster out” non-
core brands to third party sales
and marketing partners. The third
party partner sees the brand as
being big and important to their
business and therefore delivers
the focus and attention required
to maximize the potential of the
brand. Of course, selecting the
right partner with a proven track
record is key to success.
Third parTy paraMeTersThe boards of many large
corporations consider
“outsourcing” to be a leading
strategic imperative for their
immediate or future strategies;
they’re not just focused on saving
money, they want to know how
to cost-effectively grow their
business. It is also worth noting
that businesses choosing to
outsource brands are becoming
very selective in appointing
the right outsourcing partner/
company. They see the chosen
partner as an integral, strategic,
trusted and tactical part of their
business, which necessitates a
parallel alignment on both sides
regarding work ethics, culture,
leadership and vision. To achieve
and maintain the high standards
required of a professional,
sustainable outsourcing partner,
service providers must be able to
fulfil the disciplines and support
functions within the following
framework to ensure best practice:
• proven track record of success
in managing and developing
brands
• solutions provider
• excellent trade channel
coverage
• industry and trade respectability
• positive trade relationships
• highly skilled workforce in key
disciplines
• training support and career
guidance for personnel
• HR department: good people
support and development
• solid back office support and
well staffed infrastructure
• corporate social governance
• environmental best practice
• full service providers
• supportive intellectual property
• open minded to new business
models and ideas.
Companies are seeking
affordable commercial cost
options that also offer significant
value creation for their brands,
business plans and strategies. They
also recognize that the cheapest
options are often, if not always,
false economies.
shoUld yoU oUTsoUrce?Outsourcing brands or activities
can create untapped value for
many types of organizations.
Below is a list of the types of
companies that should consider
outsourcing as an alternative to
traditional strategies:
• companies with too many
brands
• companies that have complex
portfolio management issues
and large tails
• companies with defined core
investment/focus brands but
large tails
• companies considering
divesting brands with latent,
significant growth potential
• Rx companies with OTC
switch candidates but no OTC
capability or infrastructure
• companies looking to enter
new markets or specialty trade
channels with no desire to carry
the infrastructure costs
• smaller companies with great
local brands that could travel to
new geographies
• innovation companies with
great new ideas but no
commercialization experience
• companies needing to
exit a market because of
unsustainable losses that are
incorporated through local
market overheads such as
buildings, people, utility costs
and taxation.
Before divesting a brand or
consigning it to the ‘non-
investment’ category of a
slow, often painful death,
manufacturers should at least
explore the benefits of fostering
out the management of the
brand or project to someone
who can deliver the focus and
“TLC” required to maximize the
value of the asset and any growth
potential.
BenefiTs of oUTsoUrcingThere is a well known saying
that a business or brand without
direction or focus will simply drive
itself downhill. With the right third
party partner on board, however,
you would expect to
• halt the decline of an unfocused
brand
• re-engineer a brand to realize
untapped potential
• increase brand equity and
value
• allow internal departments to
focus on core strategic activities
• access new and untapped
territories or trade channels
• achieve optimal returns from
smart portfolio management.
sUMMary Whether you are a large company
with complex portfolio choices
or a smaller innovation company
looking to commercialize a unique
product, outsourcing can deliver
cost-effective and significant
benefits to your business. We at
Ceuta Healthcare have a proven
track record of re-engineering
established brands to maximize
potential and finding innovative
solutions. If nothing else, you should
at least explore the commercial
option before deciding on your
chosen strategy. phM
for More inforMaTionPeter Burrows Director of International Business Development, Health and BeautyThe Ceuta Healthcare GroupCeuta Healthcare LtdHill House, 41 Richmond HillBournemouth BH2 6HS, UK.Tel. +44 1202 780 [email protected]
Outsourcing can deliver a number of selective options to drive profitable growth, which adds significant value to an organization.
Formulation
26 autumn 2010
To exert their activity,
active ingredients
should be delivered
in the right chemical
form to the right
site of action at the right
concentration and within the
right period of time (Morganti et
al., 2001; Wiechers, 2007). Actives
are normally dispersed within a
carrier vehicle, which plays an
important role in topical delivery
(Buchmann, 2006). In addition to
being responsible for the effective
delivery of active compounds,
vehicles should also provide
aesthetic acceptability and
fulfil the requirements of safety
and physical stability. Owing
to specific physicochemical
properties (such as low
solubility, chemical instability,
intense colour or sensitivity to
oxidation), the incorporation
of some actives may not lead
to an effective or aesthetically
acceptable product. One of the
most elegant ways to improve
the performance of actives in
cosmetic formulations is the use
of delivery systems. A cosmetic
delivery system is broadly defined
as a way of carrying an active
ingredient to the site of action
(mostly skin). In most cases, the
active is first incorporated into
a carrier, such as a micro- or
nanoparticle, after which the
loaded carrier is dispersed within
a vehicle (a cream or gel). The
delivery system should present
an active molecule to the skin in
a way that allows its appropriate
release to the target site
(Morganti et al., 2001).
The cosmetic industry is
driven by innovation and the
continuous development of
new technologies to introduce
effective and desirable products
into the market. Encapsulation
is one of the most frequently
used technologies in cosmetic
delivery systems, whereby a
protective shell is used to surround
an active ingredient. Successful
encapsulation should provide
chemical stability for the active
by shielding it from environmental
factors (oxygen, pH). It could
also mask an unpleasant
colour or odour, improve the
physiochemical properties of
actives without altering their
chemical nature or biological
activity, and enhance the
permeation of the active from
the vehicle to the site of action.
The cosmetic industry was one
of the first industries to employ
nanotechnology. Nanoparticles
are expected to bring solutions
to the problems experienced
with existing encapsulation
techniques, such as leaking of the
active ingredient, limited shelf-life,
encapsulation efficiency and
release properties.
colloidal delivery sysTeMsNanoparticulate colloidal
delivery systems can be
described as molecular and/
or molecular assembly systems
in which an active principle
is dissolved, entrapped,
encapsulated or even adsorbed
or attached to the external
interface (Anton et al., 2007).
A considerable number of
nanoparticle generation
methods are based on
nanoemulsion templates.
Nanoemulsions are nano-sized
emulsions, typically exhibiting
diameters of up to 500 nm. The
nanocapsUlaTions in cosMeTic prodUcTsan answer To yoUr forMUlaTion proBleMs?Nowadays, we hear more and more about nanocapsulation. Sometimes it’s about how wonderful
it is and, at the same time, about the controversy surrounding its safety. In this series of articles, I
aim to provide an extensive review of the latest research in cosmetic nanocapsulation, looking
at what nanocapsules are, different types of nanocapsules and their production methods, the
controversy issue surrounding nanocapsule safety and, finally, their efficacy as a novel delivery
system for cosmetic products.
A Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis image of purified vitamin E-loaded lipid nanocarriers.
272010 autumn
characteristic of nanoemulsions
that makes them prime
candidates for nanoparticle
engineering is their high stability.
They possess kinetic stability
that lasts for months, stability
against dilution and, often,
stability against temperature
changes. The small droplet
size of nanoemulsions stabilizes
them against sedimentation (or
creaming) because the Brownian
motion and, consequently, the
diffusion rate is higher than the
sedimentation (or creaming) rate
induced by the force of gravity.
The main cause of nanoemulsion
destabilization is Ostwald ripening
or molecular diffusion. The rate
of Ostwald ripening can be
reduced by several orders of
magnitude by adding additives
(cosurfactants, polymers) that
have substantially lower solubility
in the continuous phase than
in the main component of the
droplet. This reduction in ripening
rate leads to the stabilization of
nanoemulsions (Taylor & Ottewill,
1994); however, nanocapsules
produced from a nanoemulsion
template are several orders of
magnitude more stable.
There are two principal
methods for the generation
of nanoemulsion templates:
high-energy methods (such
as sonication and high shear
homogenization) and low-
energy methods (such as
spontaneous emulsification and
the phase inversion temperature
method) (Anton, Benoit and
Saulnier, 2008). High-energy
methods use strong shear forces
to create large interfacial areas.
The formation of nanoscale
droplets by this method is
affected by controllable
formulation parameters, such
as the energy input, the amount
of surfactant and the nature of
the components. Conversely,
with low-energy methods, the
formation of nanoemulsion
droplets is governed by the
intrinsic physicochemical
properties and behaviour of
the systems (Anton et al, 2007).
The choice of the method
can directly influence the
morphology of the nanoparticles
and, consequently, the route
of the administration and the
choice of encapsulated actives.
The morphology and structure
of nanoparticles are directly
related to their biocompatibility
and physiological/
pharmacological efficacy.
A nanoparticulate colloidal
delivery system can comprise
either polymers or lipid
materials. Polymers used to
make a nanoparticulate
system can be synthetic or
natural macromolecules, such
as chitosan, polysaccharides,
alginate or gelatin, thus
increasing their biocompatibility
and reducing their toxicity. Lipid-
based nanoparticles, because
of their safety profiles, have
attracted more attention in the
cosmetics industry. Lipid-based
nanoparticles can be classified
as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)
and lipid nanocapsules (LNCs)
— also known as nanocarriers.
Both types have shown excellent
safety profiles because they are
based on physiological lipids and
do not contain organic solvents.
solid lipid nanoparTiclesSolid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)
are commonly defined as
nanospheres or nanoscaled
lipid matrices; they are solid
at physiological temperatures
and stabilized by surfactants
(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller,
Mader and Gohla, 2000). One
of the most commonly used
high-energy methods for SLN
production is high-pressure
homogenization (HPH) or
sonication. This method typically
includes the following steps:
• heating the lipid phase (plus
potentially solubilized active) at
5–10 °C above its melting point
• premixing it in an aqueous
surfactant solution at the same
temperature
• nano-emulsifying the pre-
emulsion using an HPH method
(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller
and Lucks, 1997) or sonication
method (Schwarz, Mehnert &
Luck, 2004; Seki et al., 2004
• cooling it down to room
temperature to crystallize the
lipids.
For the encapsulation of
thermosensitive actives, an
alternative method — known
as the cold homogenization
technique — was proposed by
Muller, Madar and Gohla (2000).
However, when the purpose of
the experiment is to encapsulate
fragile molecules, such as
peptides, proteins or actives
sensitive to oxidation, high-energy
methods may result in the loss
of activity during processing. In
the case of industrial scale-up, it
is also important to consider the
energetic yield, which is many
times greater in high-energy
methods (Tadros et al., 2004)
Low-energy SLN production
methods are based on the
Successful encapsulation should provide chemical stability for the active by shielding it from environmental factors.
28 autumn 2010
Formulation
references1. N. Anton, et al., “Nanoemulsions and Nanocapsules by the PIT Method: An
Investigation on the Role of the Temperature Cycling on the Emulsion Phase Inversion,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 344, 44–52 (2007).
2. N. Anton, J. Benoit and P. Saulnier, “Design and Production of Nanoparticles Formulated from Nanoemulsion Templates — A Review,” Journal of Controlled Release 128, 185–199 (2008).
3. L. Boltri, et al., “Lipid Nanoparticles: Evaluation of Some Critical Formulation Parameters,” Proc. International Symposium Controlled Release Bioactives Materials 20, 346–347 (1993).
4. H. Bunjes and M.H. Koch, “Crystallization Tendency and Polymorphic Transitions in Triglyceride Nanoparticles,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 29, 159–173 (1996).
5. S. Buchmann, “Main Cosmetic Vehicles,” in M. Paye, A. Barel and H.I. Maibach (Eds.), Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (CRS Press, London, UK, 2006) pp 99–113.
6. M.R. Gasco, “Solid Lipid Nanospheres from Warm Microemulsions,” Pharmaceutical Technology Europe 9, 32–42 (1997).
7. B. Heurtault, et al., “A Novel Phase Inversion-Based Process for the Preparation of Lipid Nanocarriers,” Pharmaceutical Research 19(6), 875–880 (2002).
8. B. Heurtault, et al., “Interfacial Stability of Lipid Nanocapsules,” Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 30(3), 225–235 (2003).
9. M. Moddaresi, S.A. Tamburic and M.B. Brown, “Vitamin E Nanoparticles for Dermal Applications,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 58(10), A13–A14 (2006).
10. M. Moddaresi, et al., “The Influence of Particle Transport on the Topical Delivery of Tochopheryl Acetate-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanocarriers,” submitted to International Journal of Pharmaceutics.
11. M. Moddaresi, et al., “Tocopheryl Acetate Disposition in Porcine and Human Skin When Administered Using Lipid Nanocarriers,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 62, 762–769 (2010).
12. P. Morganti, et al., “Percutaneous Absorption and Delivery Systems,” Clinics in Dermatology 19, 489–501 (2001).
13. R.H. Müller and A. Dingler, “The Next Generation After the Liposomes: Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN, Lipopearls) as Dermal Carriers in Cosmetics,” Eurocosmetics 7/8, 19–26 (1998).
14. R. Muller and J.S. Lucks, “Arzneistoffträger aus Festen Lipidteilchen — Feste Lipid Nanosphären (SLN),” German Patent Application P4131562.6 (1997).
15. R.H. Müller, K. Mader and S. Gohla, “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery: A Review of the State of the Art,” European Journal of Pharmacy and Biopharmacy 50(1), 161–177 (2000).
16. C. Schwarz, et al., “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery. Part 1. Production, Characterization and Sterilization,” Journal of Controlled Release 30(4), 83–96 (2004).
17. J. Seki, et al., “A Nanometer Lipid Emulsion, Lipid Nanosphere (lns), as a Parenteral Drug Carrier for Passive Drug Targeting,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 273, 75–83 (2004).
18. T. Tadros, “Application of Rheology for Assessment and Prediction of the Long-Term Physical Stability of Emulsions,” Advanced Colloid International Science 108, 227–258 (2004).
19. P. Taylor and R.H. Ottewill, “Ostwald Ripening in O/W Miniemulsions Formed by the Dilution of O/W Microemulsions,” Trends in Colloid and Interface Science 9, 199–203 (1994).
20. J.W. Wiechers, “Influence of Formulation Design on the Clinical Performance of Topically Applied Formulation,” in A. Kenneth, A. Walters and M.S. Roberts (Eds.), Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development, First Edition (CRC Press, London, UK, 2007) p 355.
for More inforMaTionDr Mojgan Moddaresi graduated as a Doctor of Pharmacy in 1998; gaining experience as a PharmD in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries, she started her PhD in 2004. She was the first person to be awarded the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Cosmetic Science in the UK. She currently works in the cosmetics industry as a consultant and advises on innovative approaches to designing cosmetics products. For further information, please contact [email protected].
formation of microemulsions
and subsequent water dilution,
which induces cooling of the
system and lipid nanoparticle
precipitation (Gasco, 1997). To
form a microemulsion, lipids
(fatty acids and/or glycerides)
are melted; a mixture of water,
cosurfactant(s) and the surfactant
is heated to the same temperature
as the lipid and added under
mild stirring to the lipid melt. A
transparent, thermodynamically
stable system is formed when
the compounds are mixed in the
correct ratio. This microemulsion is
then dispersed in a cold aqueous
medium under mild mechanical
mixing, thus ensuring that the
small size of the particles is a
result of the precipitation and is
not mechanically induced by
the stirring process (Gasco, 1997;
Boltri et al., 1993). This method
not only requires the use of
surfactants and cosurfactants
(such as lecithin), but also
alcohols (butanol, for example);
the presence of the latter is not
desirable in dermal delivery. SLNs
have the disadvantage of low
encapsulation efficiency. The
particle matrix tends to form a
relatively perfect crystal lattice,
leaving only a limited space to
accommodate the active. This
limits the loading capacity and
can lead to the expulsion of active
from the lipid matrix during storage
(Bunjes and Koch, 1996). There is
also a problem of the presence
of a mixture of micro- and
nanoparticles in final products,
as well as organic solvents, when
SLNs are obtained by low-energy
methods. It looks like the new
generation of nanoparticles —
lipid nanocapsules/nanocarriers
(LNCs) — could be the ideal
model for the encapsulation of
highly sensitive actives (Moddaresi
et al., 2006).
lipid nanocapsUlesLNCs are colloidal entities that
exhibit a core-shell structure.
The core is mainly composed
of liquid oil, which acts as a
reservoir for the active, and is
surrounded by an amorphous
surfactant shell. The advantages
of LNCs compared with SLNs are
higher encapsulation efficiencies
because of the optimized active
solubility in the nanoparticle
core, better protection of the
active against degradation
and lower tissue irritation (a
less pronounced burst effect
on active release). LNCs were
first introduced by Heurtault
et al. (2002). The authors used
a low-energy method for LNC
production, a combination of
the phase inversion temperature
(PIT) method and controlled
temperature cycling. The LNC
in question was formed from
biocompatible lipid ingredients
(medium-chain triglycerides),
an ethoxylated non-ionic
surfactant (polyoxyethylene-
660-12-hydroxy stearate) and a
phospholipid surfactant lecithin
(Heurtault et al., 2003). LNC
stability was attributed to their
surface cohesion related to a
surfactant shell. The PIT method
used is particularly interesting
as it is an organic, solvent-free
and low-energy method. These
specifications are potentially
the most suitable for cosmetic
applications. In addition, the
method is relatively simple and
allows easy industrial scale-up.
An overview of nano-related
cosmetic products, including lipid
nanoparticles introduced to the
market between 2005 and 2007
for brands such as Dr. Rimpler,
Isabelle Lancray and Beate
Johnen, was published by Muller
et al. (2007). However, employing
lipid nanocarriers in cosmetic
products is still in its research
phase (Moddaresi et al., 2009;
Moddaresi et al, 2010). In the
next article, an extensive review
of how lipid nanoparticulate
systems can increase the
efficacy of cosmetics products
will be discussed. phM
292010 autumnwww.lipotec.com
Lipotec, the genuine alliance against expression wrinklesOn the forefront of anti-aging technology, Lipotec is committed pioneer in successfully
offering solutions to attenuate expression lines through an innovative range of
combinable molecular actives that, by independent mechanisms, safely target the
muscle contraction.
30 autumn 2010
Technology
BUgs, planTs and BUsinessPHM’s Editorial Director, Dr Kevin Robinson, reviews some of the recent developments in the less
glamorous part of the personal care industry.
genes-To-Proteins
Technology
SA (GTP), a
contract research
organization
that specializes in protein
engineering, now offers significant
improvements in continuous
fermentation processes with
Lactococcus lactis, a promising
gene expression host. The
improvements to the host deliver
a number of benefits for biologic,
diagnostic and cosmetic
applications. The company,
which has now completed more
than 800 projects for customers
in the life sciences industries, has
introduced induced expression
enhancements and developed
a constitutive promoter for
continuous fermentation processes
in L. lactis. In so doing, it has
overcome most of the difficulty
of balancing translation and
secretion. The inducible promoters
used with L. lactis provide gene
expression control, but also come
with some disadvantages, such as
overloading the secretion system,
an unstable host and having to
deal with the inducer itself. The
new constitutive inducers from GTP
are more stable, which is essential
for process optimization and
continuous fermentation. GTP’s
innovation, originally developed
in conjunction with academia,
covers novel DNA sequences that
function as promoters, expression
vectors and transformed host cells.
The invention also allows the use of
these promoters for the production
of heterologous proteins, such as
therapeutic or vaccine-related
proteins. The company has filed
patents covering the technology
and has an ongoing innovation
programme; amongst its current
projects is an investigation into
promising approaches to biomass
increase with an industrial partner.
For more information, visit www.
gtptech.com.1
Staying on a micro-theme,
and keeping the upcoming
in-cosmetics Asia in mind, Dow
Microbial Control customers in
the Southeast Asia, Australia
and New Zealand region now
have improved access to global
technical expertise and R&D
tools following the recent launch
of the Dow Microbial Control
Academy in Singapore. The
academy is a multipurpose
educational institution focused on
the transmission, expansion and
application of microbial control
knowledge. Vipul Shah, President
for Southeast Asia and India/
Pakistan of The Dow Chemical
Company, along with Mark
Henning, Dow Microbial Control
Global General Manager, were on-
site to mark the occasion and share
information on R&D with more than
90 customers from a spectrum of
industries. Celso Magri, Global
Marketing Manager, conducted
a seminar on new concepts in
microbial control, highlighting
Dow Microbial Control’s focus on
responsible innovation.
“Every customer has a microbial
control challenge that requires
a unique solution,” said Mark
Henning. “The central mission of
the academy is to teach, lead
and research microbial control
science and technology for the
betterment of customers, markets
and applications worldwide,
and the Singapore Academy
will deliver on our commitment
to provide that expertise locally
in the Southeast Asia, Australia
and New Zealand region.” The
academy is designed to provide
Dow Microbial Control customers
in the region with easy and
continuous access to educational
opportunities, regulatory support,
technical expertise and R&D tools
through both online platforms
and customized training sessions.
This enables customers to be
constantly informed on regional
best practices that will benefit
30 autumn 2010
their businesses. Besides providing
extensive resources, such as
training sessions and research
updates, Dow Microbial Control
offers its customers science and
technology expertise through
its Customer Application Center
based in Singapore (www.
DowMicrobialControl.com).
BUild, BUy and growSince the summer issue of PHM
went to press, Cognis opened its
new state-of-the-art production
facility for alkyl polyglucoside
(APG) surfactants in Jinshan,
China. The company also signed
the Responsible Care Charter
there. Along with its other
two production sites for APG
surfactants in Düsseldorf, Germany
and Cincinnati, USA, the Jinshan
facility will enable Cognis to better
serve the increasing demand for
green solutions in the Asia-Pacific
region. Richard Ridinger, Executive
Vice President Care Chemicals,
commented: “The new facility in
China complements our existing
plants in Germany and the US, and
improves the global availability of
our high-quality APG surfactants;
this is a real investment in the
company’s future. And, by signing
the Responsible Care Charter,
we the aim to further improve
safety, health and environmental
performance. The Cognis
Responsible Care team in Greater
China will soon start co-ordinating
self-assessment processes within
the affiliate and integrating the
principles of responsible care into
its standards and procedures.”
By opening its new APG
facility in Jinshan, China, Cognis
is responding to the increasing
environmental awareness and
consumer demand for high-
performance products in the
Asia-Pacific region. Added Young-
Yull Kim, Vice President, Care
Chemicals, Sales and Marketing,
Asia-Pacific: “We closely follow
the market development in
Asia-Pacific and with the new
facility in China, we can serve our
regional customers even better.
To demonstrate product benefits
and support our customers’
application technologies, we will
also be establishing technical
service facilities in Jinshan.”
Cognis’ APG surfactants are
safe, combine mildness and
environmental compatibility while
also offering high performance.
As such, they are a preferred
ingredient for many customers in
bath and shower gels, household
cleaners, dishwashing and
laundry detergents and can be
widely applied in agrochemical
formulations (www.cognis.com).
Also in expansive mode, IMA
(www.ima.it) and FORUM SpA
recently signed an investment
agreement for IMA to buy a
majority stake in GIMA SpA, a
packaging company based near
Bologna, Italy, which operates
prevalently in food, beverage
and the personal care markets.
In addition to the general crisis of
recent years, GIMA SpA has been
experiencing specific problems of
its own, having to refocus on new
products that led to a precarious
economic and financial situation.
However, the company is now
showing considerable growth
prospects with a fast-growing
order book and a number of very
interesting projects currently being
implemented. IMA is to invest a
total of around €7.0 million and
would then acquire a 65% stake
of the share capital. The current
single partner would remain
in the company as a minority
shareholder. Commenting on the
agreement, Alberto Vacchi, IMA’s
Chairman and Managing Director,
said: “Considering our strong
interest in certain projects that are
being developed by GIMA, this
agreement with FORUM will allow
us to expand IMA’s presence in
certain niche markets. We are also
very pleased that, by becoming
one of GIMA’s shareholders,
we will be able to relaunch a
historical brand, not to mention an
innovative company with strong
roots in our area, saving as many
jobs as possible at a very critical
time for the economy. We are
confident that the banking system
and GIMA’s traditional suppliers
will accept FORUM’s plan to save
the company, trusting in IMA’s
ability to develop GIMA’s business
and achieve the objectives set by
its management. In this regard,
we are of the opinion that once
unprofitable projects have been
discarded and non-recurring
charges have been eliminated,
we will be able to significantly
increase revenues and achieve a
high level of profitability.”
The reTUrn of innovaTionAdvanced R&D, expansion
and merger and acquisition
activity have got to be good
news for the industry. And, as
the economic pressure eases,
innovation appears to be back
as well, playing an important role
in ingredient buying decisions
and allowing suppliers to develop
their portfolios. According to
a recent Kline report, price
was the key motivation behind
purchasing decisions during the
economic downturn, creating a
challenging situation for personal
care ingredients suppliers. Now,
although price sensitivity is still an
issue, it is lessening — depending
on which channel the customer
is active in. In an interview with
CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com,
Kline Analyst Anna Ibbotson
commented: “After a difficult
period when price was the key
purchasing criterion, the return
of innovation as a key buying
factor for formulators will create
an opportunity for suppliers to
develop more added value …
and take market shares from
established products.”
According to the report,
the European personal care
ingredients market is valued at
$1.74 billion, with annual volume
growth expected to stand at
2.6% until 2014. Owing to the
relative resilience of the personal
care and cosmetics sectors, the
market has outperformed most
other end-use industries in which
the specialty chemicals industry
is active, and is expected to
recover quickly. Indeed, leading
ingredients categories within
the market comprise specialty
surfactants, conditioning
polymers and emollients, but
UV absorbers and so-called
green — naturally derived,
biodegradable, petrochemical-
free and environmentally safe
— ingredients are expected to
grow rapidly in the future. “A
combination of companies offer
greener ingredients from Cognis
and Croda to smaller players,
which are more focused on a
natural ingredient portfolio,”
added Ibbotson. UV absorbers
are expected to benefit from
consumer demand for UV
protective qualities in many
skincare products outside of the
more traditional sun care ranges.
Kline’s report also noted the
increasing convergence of the
personal care ingredients industry,
with mergers and acquisitions
decreasing the number of
players active in the market. A
notable acquisition in the sector
that confirms this trend was the
recent purchase of Cognis by
BASF in June. According to Kline,
this convergence is an attempt
by suppliers to become a one-
stop-shop for ingredients and
to be present in most market
segments. However, the effect
that this will have on the health
of the personal care ingredients
industry is not clear. “It is too
early to say what the impact
will be on the market,” Ibbotson
said. The recession may well be
on the decline, but the road to
recovery could still be a little
rocky, especially with the big
players looking for non-organic
expansion. SMEs beware! phM
for More inforMaTionDr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at [email protected].
reference1. N. Trémillon, et al.,
“Production and Purification of Staphylococcal Nuclease in Lactococcus lactis Using a New Expression-Secretion System and a pH-Regulated Mini-Reactor,” Microbial Cell Factories 9, 37–49 (2010): www.microbialcellfactories.com/content/9/1/37.
312010 autumn
Colours and Fragrances
Managing coloUr in The cosMeTics indUsTry:The BenefiTs of conTacTless MeasUreMenT
a wide varieTy of coMpoUndsAs such, a meaningful colour
management strategy relies on a
technology that is tailored to the
nature of the measured products
and the type of information that
needs to be researched. In the
case of cosmetics, key criteria are
colour, appearance, brilliance
and effects. Additionally, the
measuring technology must
consistently adapt to the
diversity of products involved.
In the cosmetics industry, the
wide variety of compounds and
products rendered it difficult —
until recently — to make accurate
and consistent measurements.
Lipstick is a good example
of the complexity of colour
measurement in this industry. It is
a product that is often opaque
in mass but can be transparent,
translucid or opaque after
application. It is coloured by
pigments or colourings, with a
high degree of brilliance, using
traditional colouring substances
or pigments with effects (when
the colour variation depends
on the angle of observation).
Verifying the appearance
of this type of product
is complex, for the
simple reason that
brilliance and
texture are difficult
to measure. Also,
the state in which
the product’s
colour characteristics should
be measured must be agreed.
Traditionally, colour control can
be performed in three different
ways, representing the three
typical states of a lipstick product:
• the mass colour (the colour of
the raw material) corresponds to
the colour of the product without
the influence of brilliance.
• the grape colour (the colour
of the lipstick in its shell)
corresponds to the in-store
displayed product. It is often
considered to be the most
important state, as it defines the
visual aspect of the product
during purchasing.
• The colour after application
corresponds to the aspect
of the colour once it’s been
applied to the lips, and
therefore during use.
In a similar way, a powder’s
colour may be measured in
different states, such as the colour
of the free powder, the colour
of the compacted powder
and the colour on application,
corresponding to the powder
applied to a carrier medium.
Foundation creams, nail varnishes
and pencils also have different
states in which their colour may
be measured … and this typically
causes the same issues.
persisTence of visUal coloUr evalUaTion In recent years, the absence of
measurement devices capable
of taking all these considerations
into account has inhibited
cosmetics professionals from
developing truly industrial colour
management strategies. “Almost
95% of our industry still relies on
a visual appreciation of a given
product’s colour, by comparing it
with an existing stock of validated
products,” says Philippe Spay, the
founder of Newtone, a French
consultancy firm specialized in
colour strategies for the cosmetics
industry. As a result, production
processes can still be improved.
“In the cosmetics industry, as
part of their production process,
manufacturers often have to
produce seven or eight samples
before getting a colour right,”
adds Spay. “In the paint and
plastic industries, where colour
management solutions are well
established, an average of 1.8
samples is enough to obtain a
given colour and start volume
production.” Philippe is keen
to emphasize that, owing to
the complexity and variety of
cosmetic products, it is unlikely
that such a low figure will
be obtained any time soon.
However, there is still considerable
room for improvement on the
current figures.
The conTacTless BreakThroUgh
Things have taken a new
turn, however, with the
recent introduction of
a new category of
measuring devices,
offering what
the cosmetics
industry really
needs:
contactless
measures.
During the past 20 years, colour management has become a prime focus in a growing number of
industries. From printing to textiles, from chemicals to automobiles, accurate colour management
processes are in place and the corresponding measurement instruments now have a high level of
penetration in these markets. This is not the case, however, in the cosmetics industry. Even today,
measuring, controlling and formulating the appearance of cosmetic products remains a real
industrial challenge and a genuine concern. The reason for this lies in the products’ appearance
and colour characteristics. Make-up is a highly complex compound, and its colour is somewhat
more difficult to measure than textiles or paints.
32 autumn 2010
332010 autumn
“Measuring colour samples with
a spectrophotometer is not a
new concept in the cosmetics
industry,” says Spay. “In fact,
many leading companies
have been using such tools,
to a degree, for a number of
years. But the fact that these
systems typically involve direct
contact with the product is a
major issue.” Indeed, cosmetic
products range in material type
from powders to pastes, all of
which are difficult to measure
with traditional contact-based
instruments. Sample presentation
methods such as glassware
often distort the appearance
of the material. And, the actual
three dimensional volume of
a cosmetic product makes it
substantially more difficult to
analyse than a paint product
that can be evenly spread on a
flat surface and left to dry.
Contactless colour measuring
has now become a reality, with
the introduction of products
such as X-Rite’s VS450 unit. The
result of 4 years of research,
users are now able to capture a
colour sample without contact,
making it possible to measure
foundation creams, nail varnishes,
powders, lipsticks, monochromes
and other pasty or mass care
products directly, without the
surface distortion associated with
traditional spectrophotometers.
Practical examples include
measuring a spoon filled with a
product and levelled of with a
spatula, measuring foundation
cream when applied to a model’s
arm or measuring lipstick directly
applied to human lips.
lifTing The coloUr MeasUreMenT BoTTleneckContactless measurement is the
key that will unlock a number
of the issues that are holding
back colour management
strategies on an industrial scale
in the cosmetics sector. And the
measurement device is only the
first element of the colour value
chain. A close second is colour
formulation software, which
effectively helps to maintain
colour consistency throughout
the production cycle. If the
measuring device is the eye,
the formulation software is the
brain. Colour software is used
to characterize all the materials
that are part of a cosmetic
product’s composition. By
measuring a given product and
passing the colour values down
to the formulation software,
it is possible to accurately
determine the required
amount of each component
to get the expected result …
with limited trial and error.
Obtaining the right colour for
a product in a predictable
way is a valuable asset in the
production environment. It helps
to save on raw material usage,
by limiting waste, and ensures
that production equipment is
used at maximum efficiency, by
eliminating downtime.
Colour compliance is also a
major area of interest. Coupled
with the right formulation
software, a measuring device
such as the VS450 is a useful
tool to check a product’s
compliance with a given colour
reference. “Compliance with a
colour reference is measured in
Delta E-2000,” explains Reinhard
Feld, X-Rite’s EMEA Product
Manager for the industrial
business unit. “The cosmetics
industry typically has a tolerance
of 1.5 ∆E-2000 in production.
Contact spectrophotometers
have an average predictability
of 2 ∆E-2000, owing to
inaccuracies in preparing and
presenting the product sample.
This makes them virtually useless
as a measuring tool in the
cosmetics industry.” By contrast,
contactless devices such as
the VS450 offer a measurement
accuracy of 0.5 ∆E-2000. This
makes the colour measure
reliable and effectively usable
in production. The advent of
a trustworthy electronic eye is
a true milestone that will help
the cosmetics sector to catch
up with the other industries and
finally reap the full benefit of a
modern-day colour value chain.
What took many years in printing
and textiles could come a lot
faster in cosmetics, owing to the
technical expertise acquired
across the board of colour
measurement and analysis. phM
for More inforMaTionReinhard FeldEMEA Product ManagerX-Rite4300 44th St. SE Grand Rapids, Michigan 49512, USA. Tel. +1 800 248 9748 [email protected]
34 autumn 2010
Last Word
BaoBaB oil a Miracle of naTUre
for More inforMaTionSandra WulfCremer Oleo GmbH & Co. KGGlockengiesserwall 3D-20095 Hamburg, Germany.Tel. +49 4032 [email protected]
The baobab tree
(Adansonia
digitata) has
captivated
people since
time immemorial; in its native
African savannah, it can quite
easily live to be 500 years old,
reach a height of 20 m and
achieve a trunk diameter of
12 m. Locals call it the magic
tree, the chemist’s tree and the
tree of life, designations that
show just how important it is for
life in the challenging African
environment. Almost every part
of the plant and its fruit have
been used, for generations,
for a variety of applications.
For example, both humans
and animals enjoy “tapping”
the enormous water reservoir
inside the trunk to supplement
their fluid requirements during
periods of drought. The fruit, by
contrast, is naturally dry when
ripe and contains much less
water (8–9%) when harvested.
The seeds, bark, leaves and
shoots all provide a number of
unique active ingredients and,
as such, are used in a wide
range of foodstuffs, traditional
medicines and cosmetics.
creMer care and BaoBaBOur partner, Baobab Fruit
Company Senegal, started
collecting fruit in one of the
driest regions of Senegal as
long ago as 1999. Because
of this, and the subsequent
processing of the produce
in the Senegalese town of
Thiès, the local population
acquired an important, fair and
sustainable source of revenue.
As a biocertified company,
Baobab Fruit Company
Senegal separates the fruit in a
purely mechanical way into its
single components. In doing
so, no chemicals or physical
substances are added and
processing is done using
European technology and
according to strict standards
of hygiene.
prodUcTion and properTiesFrom the relatively small seeds
of the baobab tree, two
different oils are obtained.
One, Baobab classic oil,
is cold-pressed; the other,
Baobab Oxy-Oil, is obtained by
macerating micronized pits/pips
in sunflower oil using ultrasound
to stimulate the release of
active ingredients. Because of
its versatile properties, baobab
oil is of particular interest to
cosmetic companies. Baobab
classic oil is characterized by
its antioxidant properties and
its high palmitic acid content,
which has a remarkably
high affinity for skin and has
a positive impact on skin
penetration. In fact, a study
at Ferrara University, Italy,
demonstrated that the topical
application of baobab oil
significantly increases skin
elasticity. Its high tocopherol
content results in considerable
oxidative stability. Baobab Oxy-
Oil is also extremely effective
as a free radical scavenger.
Moreover, it inhibits the growth
of dermatophytes and Candida
albicans, which makes it a
useful additive in both hand
care and foot care products
(particularly regarding nail
care). In addition, both oils
add brilliance to dry hair.
Areas of application include
the following:
• Face packs
• Bath essences, soaps,
shower gels and shampoo
• Antiageing products
• Sun care products
• Hand and foot care
products
• Other skincare products.
BaoBaB frUiT coMpany senegal and creMer care Cremer Care’s corporate vision
— “Inspired by Nature” — has
once again been brought
to life by the co-operation
with Baobab Fruit Company
Senegal. Users of our baobab
oil will not only be able to
enjoy a high quality, natural
product, they will do so in the
certain knowledge that they are
indirectly supporting fair and
sustainable work in one of the
more disadvantaged areas of
the world. phM
The topical
application
of baobab oil
significantly
increases skin
elasticity.
strap
36 autumn 2010
SulforaWhitePhyto agent for visible whitening
SulforaWhite is a natural whitening active with a new mechanismof action. It effectively inhibits pigmentation by targeting thetwo key upstream reaction steps of the melanin cascade; radicalsand alpha-MSH. SulforaWhite is based on garden cress sprouts.
• Effectively inhibits melanin formation• Provides exceptional brightening benefits• Fades the appearance of age spots and discolorations
SulforaWhite reduces the effects of daytime stressors and helpsto prevent the formation of melanin for a brighter, more luminousskin complexion.
Mibelle
AG
Biochem
istry,5033
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Ins_SulforaWhite.qxp:SulforaWhite_Ins_210x297_c 10.12.2008 9:53 Uhr Seite 1