Sustainability in the Textile Value ChainWorkshop “Food-Shelter-Clothes”, Biella-Italy, October 2010

Today’sAGENDA

1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits

Resource consumptionTIME FOR CHANGE

Environmental impactFOCUS ON OUR PLANET

unchanged development

freezing current state

corporate improvements and private economisation

factor 10

Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules

Past present

future

Global Mass Flow

Development scenariosGLOBAL MASS FLOW

Today’sAGENDA

1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits

Textile productionCURRENT SITUATION

Regulations in textile manufacturing becomes more and more complex. Too many Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs) & Eco Lables, and legislation such as the new “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals” (REACH)

Textile productionBLACK HOLE

Chemical Consumption Synthetics? g/kg TEXTILE

Chemical Consumption Cotton? g/kg TEXTILE

Chemical Consumption Synthetics110 - 820 g/kg TEXTILE

Chemical Consumption Cotton350 - 1,500 g/kg TEXTILE

Worldwide chemical use25 % DIRECT AND INDIRECT IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY (Source: Greenpeace Germany)

Practical experienceMATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

Recent European ECLIPS study shows:

Many MSDS are of generally poor quality

Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly

Much of important information not available

Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%

For finishing of 1 kilogramme textileUP TO 700 LITRES of FRESH WATER

The annual water usage of one big brand demands the water of 2,000 SMALL LAKES

TodayOUTPUT TESTING – MISLEADING?

What you don’t see at the end-productOCCUPATIONAL HEALTH & SAFETY

What you don’t see at the end-productWATER EMISSION

What you don’t see at the end-productAIR EMISSION

What you don’t see at the end-productWASTE MANAGEMENT

UFP'sCO2

NOx

CH4

SO2

you do not see at the end-product

what you do not see at the end-productWhat you don’t see at the end-productEND-OF-PIPE SITUATION

What you don’t see at the end-productRESOURCE EFFICIENCY IN PROCESSING

Textile productionNEED FOR CHEMICALS

Chemicals give colour and performance Chemicals are not “bad” – if applied

correctly A “safe” chemical used badly can be

many times more polluting than a classified chemical used correctly

“If you don’t know, you don’t care!”

What you must know HOW IS YOUR PRODUCT MADE?

Today’sAGENDA

1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits

Tackle the problem at its rootsINPUT STREAM MANAGEMENT

Tackle the challenge at its roots. Input control instead of only consumer testing at the end. All resources on the input side from raw materials, water, energy, and chemicals are managed with a sophisticated "Input Stream Management" System.

The bluesign® standardWORLDWIDE INDUSTRY STANDARD

SustainabilityEcological footprint / Resource productivityEconomic successSocial responsibility

Environment, Health & SafetyNo dangerous emissionConsumer protectionSafety at the workplace

The bluesign® standardSET-UP

No compromise in functionality quality design

Best Available Technology (BAT) From the industry – for the industry Input Stream Management System Chemical rating system Resource optimisation concept Holistic approach includes all types of

textiles On-site inspections worldwide Solution provider with technical service

Qualitative comparisonHOLISTIC APPROACH

Eco LabelsEco Labels

Various RSLsVarious RSLs

OrganicOrganic

EU Eco FlowerEU Eco Flower

bluesignbluesign®® standard standard

Consumer Safety Environment Resources & Processes

Mark

et

Pen

etr

ati

on

Today’sAGENDA

1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits

bluesign® screeningbasis for EHS-Management

“The bluesign® standard is the best insurance for tomorrow’s products.”

Detlef Fischer, Vice President, bluesign technologies ag

WasteWaste Water

EndProduct

RawMaterial

Water

Production

Air Emission

Energy

Full transparency in the production

Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level

Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”

Safety for manufacturers, retailers and brands, consumers, and the environment

The bluesign® bluetoolapplication for chemical suppliers

“We have to re-learn that quality is more important than quantity.”

Peter Johnson, Product EHS Dept. Product Steward, Huntsman

The science gateway to homologate chemical products.Access an independent, expert third party to evaluate and register your chemical productsbluesign® approved chemical products comply with global RSLs, eco labels, and legislationsGet your bluesign® approved chemical products published on the bluesign® bluefinder

The bluesign® bluefinderapplication for textile manufacturers

“Partnering with bluesign to support their efforts to raise industry standards for sustainability makes sense for our business, our customers and the environment.”

Andy Vecchione, President, Polartec

Advanced search engine for bluesign® approved chemical products.Optimise chemical sourcing regarding consumer safety using the bluesign® bluefinderThe bluesign® bluefinder provides comprehensive information about sustainable productionGet access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved chemicals, dyestuffs, and auxiliaries

The bluesign® blueguideapplication for brands and retailers

“Bring more transparency into the supply chain.”

Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy, Patagonia

Comprehensive database for bluesign® certified textiles.Access to a comprehensive sourcing instrument for sustainable textiles, accessories, and trimsGet extensive information about environment, health, and safety issuesAccess to manufacturers of bluesign® approved fabrics

Today’sAGENDA

1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits

“In the 1st year of our membership with bluesign technologies, we were able to reduce:

water by 40% energy by 20% = cost reduction in energy of 1.44 million USD per year! chemicals in the waste water by 53%

The bluesign® standard combines eco-friendliness and economic benefits.”

Ching-Lai Yeh, President, Everest Textile Co., Ltd. Taiwan

bluesign® benefitsEXPERIENCE OF A MANUFACTURER

Last year, bluesign technologies was able to save a total of 3,120 tons of solvents thanks to various bluesign® screenings and the subsequent implementation of the bluesign® standard. This is equivalent to a cargo train with 78 wagons!

Resource managementRESULT ON MANUFACTURER’S SITE

The bluesign® community:sustainability is a team sport

Inspire chemical suppliers, textile manufacturers, brands and retailers to work today for a better tomorrow.

“The bluesign® standard is the gold standard.”

Kevin Myette, Director of Product Integrity, REI

bluesign technologies agEMPA BuildingLerchenfeldstrasse 5CH-9014 St.GallenSwitzerlandwww.bluesign.com

THANK YOU!