perfume making.docx

7/30/2019 perfume making.docx

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Name: Chryzl D. Suobiron Date performed: Mar. 10,2013

Course & Yr.: BSChE 4 Date submitted: Mar. 26,2013

CHEMICAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY

PERFUME MAKING

I. Objective: To be able to formulate a fragrance.II. Theory:

Perfume or parfum is a mixture of fragrant essential oils

or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the

human body, animals, objects, and living spaces "a pleasant

scent."[1] The odoriferous compounds that make up a perfumecan be manufactured synthetically or extracted from plant or

animal sources.Perfumes have been known to exist in some of

the earliest human civilizations, either through ancient texts

or from archaeological digs. Modern perfumery began in the

late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma

compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the

composition of perfumes with, smells previously unattainable

solely from natural aromatics alone.

Obtaining Natural Odorants

Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically

important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern

perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent

that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. Maceration

lasts anywhere from hours to months. Commonly used solvents

for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl

ether. The product of this process is called a "concrete."

Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic

compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses. The

raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-

collected through condensation of the distilled vapour.

Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through

the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant

compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a


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Florentine flask. This allows for the easy separation of the

fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the

condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and

oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes

sold. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials

such as flowers, leaves, and stems.

Fractionation: Through the use of a fractionation column,

different fractions distilled from a material can be

selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product.

Although the product is more expensive, this is sometimes

performed to remove unpleasant or undesirable scents of a

material and affords the perfumer more control over their

composition process.

Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and theoils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant

oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are

extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large

enough quantities as to make this extraction method

economically feasible.

Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into solid fat or

wax and then extraction of odorous oils with ethyl alcohol.

Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation

was not possible because some fragrant compounds denaturethrough high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the

modern industry due to prohibitive costs and the existence of

more efficient and effective extraction methods.

Concentration

Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic

compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically

ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ

considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The

intensity and longevity of a perfume is based on the

concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic

compounds (natural essential oils / perfume oils) used: As the

percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the

intensity and longevity of the scent created. Specific terms

are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration


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by percent/volume of perfume oil, which are typically vague or

imprecise.

FRAGRANCE CLASSIFICATION

by percentage % of total % of remainder Hours in skinoil % alcohol % water %

Perfume 15 - 30 90 - 95 5 - 10 9-16

eau de parfum 8 - 15 80 - 90 10 - 20 6-9

eau de toilette 4 - 8 80 - 90 10 - 20 4-6

eau de cologne 3 - 5 70 30 2-4

cologne splash 1 - 3 80 20 1-2

Fragrance notes

Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three

sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. The notes

unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top

note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes

gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are

created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of

the perfume.

Top notes: The scents that are perceived immediately on

application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, lightmolecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial

impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the

selling of a perfume. Also called the head notes.

Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior

to when the top notes dissipate. The middle note compounds

form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the

often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which

become more pleasant with time. They are also called the heart

notes.

Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the

departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes

together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring

depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of

scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not

perceived until 30 minutes after application.


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The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the

base notes; as well the scents of the base notes will be

altered by the type of fragrance materials used as middle

notes.

III. Materials/Apparatus:A.Materials Ethanol /vodka, essential oils (base,

heart, top notes), distilled water, curing bottles

(distilled), filter paper, decorative container

(distilled),food color, parafilm

Base: Cedarwood, Rosemary, Ginger, Patchouli,Vanilla, Sweet Orange

Middle: Rose, Lakeside wood, Wintergreen Top: Lavender, Orange, Mint, Eucalyptus

B.Apparatus Florence flask(distilled), graduatedcylinder, funnel, hot plate

IV. Procedure:

To start the experiment, we first prepared the apparatusneeded.

Preparing the bottles

Begin by cleaning the bottles and the Florence flask,

either in your hottest setting in the dishwasher or with hot,

soapy water and finally rinse with a hot water. Place the

bottles and Florence flask on a hot plate. Remove from the

oven once they are completely dry. Put a lid on one of the

bottles (the one youll be using for storing) and set it

aside until youll need it.

The Perfume Making

In a Florence flask, add the essential oils in the

following order: the base notes, the middle notes and finally

the top notes. The number of drops used for each note is up

to ones blend of scent even in choosing the note to be used.

Raw

Materials

Prepare

the

bottles

Creating a

blend of

notes

Curing the

mixture

Filtering

and

storing

Perfume


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One may follow the order of notes in the material given but

it can still be modify. Shoot for around 30 drops of oil. In

a graduated cylinder add 5 ml of ethanol/vodka to the mixture

and give color to your mixture. Place the cover and shake it

vigorously for several minutes (10-15 mins). Transfer the

mixture in a curing bottle and cover it with a parafilm and

the bottle cover.

Curing Process

Allow the curing bottle to sit for 48 hours. The

scent will change over time. Dilute the mixture with

distilled water up to the desired blend. Give the curing

bottle a good shake for 2 minutes. Place a filter paper into

a funnel and transfer the contents from the curing bottle to

the decorative or desired bottle, which will become the

storing bottle. Label your blend. The perfume is now ready to

wear. Ideally, the best place for storing your creation is in

a dark-colored bottle.

V. Observations and Results:Upon conducting the experiment, I was able to observe

some changes especially in the scent formulated. There was a

difference between the scents, the first time I mix the

mixture compare to the one which is already cured. The

fragrant turns out to be a strong one in to a pleasing and

agreeable smell.


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I have also noticed that the more I put the essential oil

the more the fragrance last in the skin. However, the

coordination of the formulated scent should not be taken for

granted for the reason that it might turn out to be pungent

than a pleasant smell

VI. Conclusion:After conducting the experiment, I was able to make a

perfume by formulating a scent which can suit my personality.

I was able to make a product which I can be a good source of

income.

VII. References:1.http://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11

.1-volatileliquid.pdf

2.http://www.chemtopics.com/aplab/mmvliq.pdf3.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume
http://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdfhttp://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdfhttp://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdfhttp://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdfhttp://www.chemtopics.com/aplab/mmvliq.pdfhttp://www.chemtopics.com/aplab/mmvliq.pdfhttp://www.chemtopics.com/aplab/mmvliq.pdfhttp://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdfhttp://hampchem.com/apchem/apch11/apch11docs/files/lad11.1-volatileliquid.pdf

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perfume making.docx