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PerformanceApparelMarketsBusiness and market analysis of worldwide trends in highperformance activewear andcorporate apparel

No 46 3rd quarter 2013

• Fast track: protecting sports participants fromhead injuries

• Product developments and innovations

• Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation

• Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoorapparel brand

• Business update: acquisitions, divestments and mergers; company strategy; corporatesocial responsibility (CSR); financial results;investments; joint ventures, cooperation,licensing and distribution; new brands;new stores

• Glossary: terms and definitions

Inside this issue:

© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013 1

Performance Apparel MarketsISSN 1477-6456

No 463rd quarter 2013

Contents

4 Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries4 Introduction4 MIPS AB: Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS)6 Phillips Helmets: Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS)7 Lazer: SuperSkin, Pure Carbon and Pure Glass8 Reebok and MC10: CheckLight10 Adidas and Ayrtek: AdiPower12 Product developments and innovations12 Summary12 Fabrics for protective apparel13 Fabric treatments15 Fibres and yarns for performance apparel16 New materials for sports equipment17 Performance apparel for water sports19 Smart clothing21 Sportswear23 Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation23 Summary23 Introduction24 Development of waterproof breathable constructions26 The market for waterproof breathable fabrics27 Waterproof breathability in performance apparel29 Testing standards for waterproofness, water repellency and breathability32 Ways of achieving waterproof breathability in apparel36 Waterproof breathable garments38 Applications of waterproof breathable materials39 Innovations in waterproof breathable materials60 Outlook61 Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand61 Summary61 Introduction62 Company development63 Products and applications64 Product innovations68 Product sourcing68 Distribution, sales and marketing72 Corporate social responsibility (CSR)74 Outlook

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Contents

2 © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

75 Business update75 Summary75 Acquisitions, divestments and mergers77 Company strategy77 Corporate social responsibility (CSR)79 Financial results88 Investments88 Joint ventures, cooperation, licensing and distribution92 New brands93 New stores96 Glossary: terms and definitions107 Index to Performance Apparel Markets

Planned for forthcoming issues...Antimicrobial fibres and fabrics; moisture management; sensory technology; stain protection

...plus regular featuresFast track; corporate profiles; product developments and innovations; business update

Textiles IntelligenceTextiles Intelligence Limited is a company formed to handle the portfolio of fibres, textiles andclothing publications previously produced by the Economist Intelligence Unit.

It is our commitment, through a wide range of Special Reports and four regular titles, GlobalApparel Markets, Performance Apparel Markets, Technical Textile Markets and Textile OutlookInternational, to supply you with the highest quality business information about the internationalfibres, textiles and clothing industries.

Performance Apparel MarketsISSN 1477-6456

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The editorThis issue of Performance Apparel Markets has been researched and edited by Lisa Muran,Jessica Farricker and Shaheda Khanom.

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Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries


Fast track: protecting sportsparticipants from head injuries

INTRODUCTION

Head protection represents a significant segment of the market forsports gear.

In most contact sports, head protection is either mandatory or at leastpreferred. The main exception is football (soccer)—a sport in whichplayers purposefully use their unprotected heads to control the ball.

That said, performance standards for helmets have been established infootball, as well as in many other contact sports—including Americanfootball, baseball, cricket, cycling, equestrianism, ice hockey, motorracing, rugby and snow sports.

In general terms, safety helmets have remained essentially the samefor decades, and usually comprise:

● a comfort liner;● an impact attenuating liner;● a restraint system; and● a shell.

Most liners are made from expanded polystyrene (EPS) while mostshells are made from thermoplastics. However, advanced models aremade from carbon-, glass- or Kevlar-reinforced composites.

Such helmets are designed to prevent traumatic head injuries—in thesame way as seatbelts, airbags and smoke detectors have savedcountless lives over the past 40 years. However, a debate has ragedrecently over whether or not they could do more.

Specifically, the question is whether helmets could do anything tomitigate the effects of concussion. This is a frequent occurrence incontact sports, and it can have short- and long-term consequences forbrain health in general and for neuro-cognitive functions in particular.

MIPS AB: MULTI-DIRECTIONAL IMPACT PROTECTION SYSTEM(MIPS)

At the centre of the debate about the effectiveness of helmets is atechnology called Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS).



The technology, developed and marketed by MIPS AB, a companybased in Stockholm, Sweden, provides an increased level of protectionagainst oblique impacts to the head—which, according to accidentstatistics, represent the most common accidents.

However, official testing methods do not assess the extent to whichhelmets protect against oblique impacts. Instead, tests involvedropping the helmet vertically on to the impact surface. As a result,helmets have been designed to optimise protection against verticalimpacts rather than oblique impacts.

During an impact to the head, the latter sustains injury from a directcollision but also has to contend with rotational acceleration—theshifting action which occurs as the head whips back on the neck. Thiscan result in a shear strain, in which the brain tissue bends or twists.

A helmet incorporating MIPS technology absorbs much of therotational energy, and is therefore said to offer radically betterprotection.

MIPS works by mimicking one of the safety systems which alreadyexist in the human head. When the head is subjected to an impact, thebrain slides along a membrane on the inner surface of the skull andsuch action reduces the forces transmitted to the brain.

This action was emulated by researchers at Kungliga TekniskaHögskolan (KTH—Royal Institute of Technology) and the KarolinskaInstitutet in Stockholm.

In subsequent experimental and numerical tests, MIPS technology hasshown a dramatic reduction of the forces to the brain resulting froman impact.

In a helmet with MIPS technology, the shell and the liner areseparated by a low friction layer which allows the shell to rotaterelative to the liner when the helmet is subjected to an oblique impact.

In designing the technology, MIPS AB developed a releasemechanism which makes the helmet feel secure in normal handling,but which releases the liner from the shell when a certain load isexceeded. The liner then absorbs some of the pressure and therebyprotects the head from the full force of the impact.

Special attention was given during development to ensuring that thetechnology did not interfere with other properties of helmets, such asweight, design and comfort.

Indeed, the incorporation of MIPS technology results in only a 5%increase in weight. Also, the technology does not have any impact oncomfort or design.


1 Current test methods do not measure how helmets manage rotational acceleration, and this is a cause forconcern given that many injuries, notably concussion, are caused by rotational force resulting from animpact.


MIPS AB first showed prototypes of the technology as long ago as2008. However, the technology failed to take the market for helmetsby storm, and there appear to be a number of reasons for this.

In particular, helmet manufacturing companies have been“programmed” only to ensure that their products pass EU or UScertification. Commenting on this, the chief executive officer (CEO)of MIPS, Nick Steenberg, stated: “We’d created a situation wherebetter protection was available but no one gave a damn about it,because you didn’t need it to pass certification. The concern thathelmets weren’t protecting against concussion1 wasn’t even on theagenda.”

The technology was accused of doing nothing but taking up space andadding complexity. Worse still, ASTM International (formerly knownas the American Society for Testing and Materials) deemed thetechnology unproven and maintained that no helmet could reduce therisk of concussion.

The implication is that the helmet testing industry is very resistant tochange.

Large manufacturers of helmets do not find it easy to adapt theirproducts so that the latter can accommodate new technology, andthose who have been investigating this concept have been doing solargely behind closed doors and away from the eyes of competitorsand lawyers.

Gradually, however, MIPS technology has started to reach receptiveears. The first to introduce a helmet incorporating MIPS technologywas a Sweden-based equestrian company, Back on Track, in 2009.

In 2011 a helmet incorporating MIPS technology for the mountainbike sector was developed by a Sweden-based manufacturer ofprotective sports gear called POC.

In 2013 the technology was introduced into bike helmets produced bythe USA-based company Scott Sports. Also, the technology hasrecently been endorsed enthusiastically by Popular Science magazine.

PHILLIPS HELMETS: PHILLIPS HEAD PROTECTION SYSTEM(PHPS)

The Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS) is based on similarprinciples to those of MIPS technology.



The system was developed by Dr Ken Phillips, a UK-based inventor.Dr Phillips observed that rotation of the head causes severe anduntreatable damage to the brain within milliseconds of an impact tothe head, and that the scalp reduces the effect of the impact by slidingover the skull.

In the PHPS, there is a lubricated flexible membrane over the outsideof the helmet. The lubricant and elastic quality of the membrane aresaid to reduce the effect of rotational force on the brain by over 60%in the critical milliseconds following an impact to the head—therebysignificantly reducing the head trauma and reducing the risk oftraumatic brain injury.

In the case of a motorcycle helmet, the PHPS membrane acts anadditional interface between the helmet and the ground at the pointwhere the helmet hits the ground during the milliseconds following animpact.

The PHPS membrane decreases the friction of the helmet surface bymoving and sliding over the hard shell. As a result, the rider’s headslips and slides over the road surface instead of sharply andimmediately twisting around.

LAZER: SUPERSKIN, PURE CARBON AND PURE GLASS

SUPERSKINSuperSkin is a lubricated membrane layer developed by Lazer, aBelgium-based motorcycle helmet manufacturer.

The membrane is based on PHPS technology, and is applied to theoutside of the helmet. This helps to decrease the friction of the helmetsurface so that the helmet slides on its shell and limits the rotationalforce which can result when the helmet hits the ground.

PURE CARBONPure Carbon, also developed by Lazer, provides greater comfort thanconventional shells as the shell is ultra-lightweight. Weight is a crucialfactor in the comfort of a helmet, and the outer shell is the heaviestcomponent.

Moreover, despite being ultra-lightweight, the shell provides a highlevel of protection.

The shell has a sandwich structure comprising the following fourlayers:

● an outer layer of high tensile strength satin carbon;● a layer of natural fibres;● a sheet of woven multiaxial fibres; and● a scrim of carbon twill on the inner layer.


2 See also Reebok and MC10 have developed a new skull cap which can detect when an athlete hasreceived a serious blow to the head, “Product developments and innovations”, Performance ApparelMarkets, No 45, 2nd quarter 2013, page 23.


Pure Carbon shells are manufactured using proprietary weave patterns,resin formulae, temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuummoulding processes.

The resins permeate the fibres in the layers more deeply and morehomogenously than the resins used in conventional shells, and theyhave graduated fracturing qualities—much like the shock absorptionzones on cars.

Graduated fracturing slows down the impact on the shell by providingconsecutive yielding points, each of which dissipates some of therotational force resulting from the impact.

PURE GLASSLazer also offers a shell called Pure Glass. This has a structure whichis similar to that of Pure Carbon except that it employs glass fabricsinstead of carbon.

As in the case of Pure Carbon shells, Pure Glass shells are ultra-lightweight and are therefore more comfortable than conventionalshells.

Also, as in the case of Pure Carbon, Pure Glass shells aremanufactured using proprietary weave patterns, resin formulae,temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuum moulding processes.

Furthermore, as in the case of Pure Carbon shells, the resins permeatethe fibres in the layers more deeply and more homogenously than theresins used in conventional shells and have graduated fracturingqualities.

As noted above, graduated fracturing slows down the impact on theshell by providing consecutive yielding points, each of whichdissipates some of the rotational force resulting from the impact.

REEBOK AND MC10: CHECKLIGHT

CheckLight is a sports cap which is able to detect when an athlete hasreceived a serious blow to the head. The cap was launched by Reebokin July 2013.

CheckLight is the result of collaboration between Reebok’s AdvancedConcepts group and MC102, a technology company based inCambridge, Massachusetts, USA. It is the first product to exploit theconformable electronics capabilities of MC10, and to wearers it feelsas though it is almost seamless.


3 A nanometre (nm) is one billionth of a metre (10-9). By way of illustration, a single grain of sand measuresapproximately 100,000 nm in width.


The technology has the ability to capture important data relating toimpacts and is housed inside a mesh skull cap which is thin andbreathable and fits comfortably under any helmet.

MC10 discovered a method for making microprocessors which are sobendable and thin that they resemble electronic skin.

The method was discovered purely by accident. In 2005 a researcherat the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Professor JohnRogers, was testing new ways of making electronic circuits.

During these tests, he accidentally pulled a piece of rubber taut as heplaced it underneath a circuit. When he released the stretched rubber,it sprang back and the circuit became a wavy, buckled mess. Theresult was described as “an accordion made of silicon” and led to theformation of MC10.

The process for creating the bendable electronic circuits begins withthe manufacture of ribbons of ultra-thin silicon, each of which is100 nanometres3 thick. At that scale, the physical properties of silicondiffer from those of a conventional wafer.

The ribbons are assembled into a lattice and then transferred on to alayer of rubber. The result is a flexible and durable semiconductor.

Professor Rogers and his team have spent the years since theirdiscovery refining the process in order to make it more suitable forhigh volume, low cost production.

The company is now manufacturing electronic circuits which can bewoven into fabrics, moulded on to flexible devices, or even adheredto body parts. The circuits can process data 1,000 times faster thanother flexible microprocessors and they are as fast as conventionalcomputer chips.

The technology has proved popular, and has been adopted in a numberof other sectors.

MC10 has contracts with the US military under which it will work toadapt the technology to enable it to be used as photovoltaic “skin”.This could be used to power an unmanned aerial vehicle.

MC10 is also exploring applications in the healthcare sector. Inparticular, it is working with Massachusetts General Hospital in theUSA to put stretchy microprocessors on the tips of cardiac catheterswhich are threaded through arteries into the heart.


4 Reebok-CCM Hockey is set to launch a new helmet in 2014 which will include new technologies and willbe the only helmet which has been designed and tested using rotational impact protocol.


The smart catheters will at first be used to monitor electrical activityand help doctors to pinpoint the location of irregular heartbeats, orarrhythmias. Eventually, they could help to treat arrhythmias byattacking and destroying malfunctioning tissue.

Meanwhile, Reebok has formed a partnership with the NeurotraumaImpact Science Laboratory (NISL) at the University of Ottawa inCanada which will enable it to thoroughly test its helmet technologiesusing the university’s rotational impact testing protocol4.

ADIDAS AND AYRTEK: ADIPOWER

Adidas has developed a range of helmets under the name AdiPowerfor use by sports participants who play cricket.

The helmets were developed with the help of technology fromAyrtek—a small company based in Bristol, UK.

The flagship helmet in the range is called AdiPower RawTek. This hasa shell made from a combination of carbon fibre and Kevlar, and it isavailable in a size range of 52-64 cm.

It incorporates a patented Air Cushion Impact System (ACIS) linerdeveloped by Ayrtek.

The ACIS liner allows the wearer to achieve a bespoke fit by inflatingit using a pump, or deflating it using an air release valve.

As a result, the liner is able to cater to a large spectrum of headshapes and sizes.

The development of the technology began with an intensive research,design and testing programme.

This involved an investigation into the most common causes of headinjuries for cricketers while they are batting.

Most of these head injuries are caused by:

● the ball being able to penetrate the gap between the faceguard andthe peak of the helmet;

● contact between the faceguard and the head or face after thefaceguard has been hit by the ball;

● being struck in the back of the head, which is a relativelyunprotected area; and

● the proximity of the faceguard to the batter’s temple.



Helmets in the AdiPower range have been specifically designed toreduce the likelihood of these injuries occurring because:

● the gap between the peak and the faceguard is so small that thelikelihood of the ball being able to penetrate the gap is reduced;

● the faceguard is strengthened;● the shell of the helmet is made from the strongest material

possible; and● the internal padding of the helmet provides a high level of comfort

and protection.

Adidas and Ayrtek carried out rigorous testing at all stages of thehelmet’s development in conjunction with the Sports TechnologyInstitute at Loughborough University in the UK.

When the new range was launched, the global vice-president forcricket at Adidas, Simon Cartwright, said: “Cricket is [a] high velocitysport which requires extreme reaction times, particularly for batsmenwho face fast bowling regularly. It’s vital that batsmen feelcomfortable and confident in their equipment—particularly animportant item like a helmet.”

The England international cricketer Michael Carberry added: “Ininternational cricket, we’re consistently facing bowling of 90-100miles an hour (mph). When batting ... [a ball travelling at that speed]... your mind is as free from distractions as possible. For me thismeans that the equipment I use should not only enhance myperformance and look good but should also help me to feel physicallyand mentally comfortable so that I can give my full attention to thebowler.”

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Product developments and innovations

1 Turnout gear is the protective clothing worn by firefighters when they tend to a fire.


Product developments andinnovations

SUMMARY

HeiQ and Huntsman Textile Effects have separately developed new fabric treatments, calledGlider and EverGlide respectively, which reduce friction between the fabric to which they are appliedand the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric. EverGlide also provides the fabric withmoisture wicking properties. Meanwhile, Tanatex has developed two new water repellent fabrictreatments which are free from fluorocarbons.

TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective fabric for use in themanufacture of firefighters’ turnout gear, and Teijin Frontier has developed a high performancestretch yarn called Solotex OO.

Nike has developed a new range of sportswear which is manufactured using warp knitting technology.The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, has been designed especially for women and includes two stylesof tank top and a pair of leggings. Nike has also developed a new waterproof sports jacket for golfers,called Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT.

Hexoskin has developed a new T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that cananalyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity.

Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from the Oceans Institute at the University ofWestern Australia have jointly developed two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent thewearer from being attacked by sharks. NSP has developed a new range of surfboards andpaddleboards, called Coco Mat, which are made using coconut husk fibres.

FABRICS FOR PROTECTIVE APPAREL

TENCATE PROTECTIVE FABRICS HAS DEVELOPEDTWO NEW TYPES OF FABRIC FOR USE IN THEMANUFACTURE OF FIREFIGHTERS’ TURNOUT GEAR

TenCate ProtectiveFabrics has developedtwo new types ofprotective fabric forfirefighters’ turnout gear

TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protectivefabric for use in the manufacture of firefighters’ turnout gear1.

TenCate Protective Fabrics is a manufacturer of flame resistant (FR)fabrics and a division of the Netherlands-based company RoyalTen Cate.



One of the fabrics, calledTenCate Gemini XTL, ismade using PBI fibrewhich has excellentthermal properties

One of the fabrics, called TenCate Gemini XTL, is made usingpolybenzimidazole (PBI) fibre.

PBI fibre has excellent thermal stability. It has a high melting point,it does not burn in air, it does not melt or drip, and it retains itsstrength and flexibility after exposure to a flame.

The fabric has high tearstrength, tensile strengthand abrasion resistance

TenCate Protective Fabrics claims that the fabric has higher tearstrength, tensile strength and resistance to abrasion than any otherprotective fabrics which are made using PBI fibres.

The other fabric, calledTenCate Millenia, is madeusing PBO fibre which hasa tensile strength and amodulus superior to thoseof aramid fibres

The other fabric, called TenCate Millenia, is made usingpoly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO) fibre. PBO fibre is ahigh performance fibre which has a tensile strength and a modulussuperior to those of aramid fibres such as Kevlar, Technora andTwaron, as well as high flame resistance and thermal stability. Also,it is fairly flexible and has a very soft hand, in spite of its excellentmechanical properties.

TenCate Millenia isextremely strong, ishighly breathable andhas moisture wickingproperties

TenCate Millenia is extremely strong, is highly breathable and hasmoisture wicking properties. This means that the fabric, whenincorporated in firefighters’ turnout gear, transports droplets of sweataway from the surface of the wearer’s skin to the outside of the fabricwhere it can evaporate. As a result, the wearer feels dry andcomfortable and his or her heat stress level is reduced.

In addition, the fabriccan not be penetratedby blood

In addition, the fabric can not be penetrated by blood, and thereforeit protects the wearer from contracting diseases which are transmittedby blood. This property is of particular importance to firefighters, whomay come into contact with injured people when they tend to a fire.

FABRIC TREATMENTS

HEIQ HAS DEVELOPED A NEW FABRIC TREATMENTCALLED GLIDER

HeiQ has developed anew fabric treatment,called Glider, whichhelps to reduce frictionbetween the fabric towhich it is applied andthe skin of the wearerof a garment madefrom the fabric

HeiQ—a producer of high performance textile finishes based inSwitzerland—has developed a new fabric treatment which helps toreduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the skinof the wearer of a garment made from the fabric.

The treatment, called Glider, is best suited for use on fabrics forsportswear—particularly those made from cotton, nylon and polyester.However, it is also suitable for use on fabrics for other garmentswhich are worn close to the skin or for garments which are wornduring physical activity. Such garments include shapewear andworkwear.



During physical activityfriction can result inincreased levels ofmoisture, leading to skinirritation, blisters anddiscomfort, and hencelower athleticperformance

When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participatesin physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin cancause the skin to heat up.

This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can leadto skin irritation and blisters.

As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athleticperformance is decreased.

However, treating thefabric with Gliderreduces the amount offriction and so the wearerfeels comfortable forlonger

When a fabric treated with Glider is used to manufacture a garment,the treatment results in a reduction in the amount of friction betweenthe garment and the wearer’s skin.

As a result, the wearer of the garment feels more comfortable for alonger period of time, even if he or she is participating in physicalactivity.

The treatment does notcompromise a fabric’sother properties

When the treatment is applied to a fabric, it does not compromise anyof the fabric’s other properties, such as its colour fastness, handle orresistance to pilling.

In addition, the treatmentcomplies with Oeko-TexStandard 100

In addition, the treatment complies with Oeko-Tex Standard 100,which certifies that it does not contain any substances that arehazardous to human health or the environment.

HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS HAS DEVELOPED ANEW FABRIC TREATMENT CALLED EVERGLIDE

Huntsman Textile Effectshas developed a new fabrictreatment, called EverGlide,which helps to reduce fric-tion between the fabric towhich it is applied and theskin of the wearer of a gar-ment made from the fabric

Huntsman Textile Effects—a Singapore-based producer of chemicalsand dye products—has developed a new fabric treatment which helpsto reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and theskin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric.

The treatment, called EverGlide, is suitable for use in the manufactureof a wide range of sportswear—particularly cycle shorts, equestriantrousers, sports underwear and gym wear.

During physical activityfriction can result inincreased levels ofmoisture, leading to skinirritation, blisters anddiscomfort, and hencelower athleticperformance

When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participatesin physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin cancause the skin to heat up.

This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can leadto skin irritation and blisters.

As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athleticperformance is decreased.

But treating the fabricwith EverGlide reducesthe amount of friction

But when the garment is made from a fabric treated with EverGlide,the amount of friction between the garment and the wearer’s skin isreduced.



Also, EverGlide providesthe fabric with moisturewicking properties whichhelp to prevent thegarment from becomingsaturated with sweat

Also, EverGlide provides the fabric with moisture wickingproperties.

These properties help to prevent the garment from becoming saturatedwith the wearer’s sweat, which can cause the wearer to suffer fromchafing and post-exercise chill.

As a result, the wearer feelsmore comfortable forlonger periods of time

Because of the fabric’s moisture wicking properties, the wearer feelsmore comfortable for longer periods of time, even if he or she isparticipating in strenuous physical activity.

TANATEX HAS DEVELOPED TWO NEW WATERREPELLENT FABRIC TREATMENTS WHICH ARE FREEFROM FLUOROCARBONS

Tanatex has developedtwo new water repellentfabric treatmentswhich are free fromfluorocarbons

Tanatex—a Netherlands-based producer of chemicals for textiletreatments—has developed two new water repellent fabric treatmentswhich are free from fluorocarbons.

Fluorocarbons are used widely in treatments which provide fabricswith water repellency properties.

Fluorocarbons releasesubstances which arethought to be harmfulto the environment

However, they release substances which are thought to be harmfulto the environment—such as perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA),perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and fluorotelomer alcohol (FTOH).Also, fluorocarbons are known to be bioaccumulative in humans.

One of the treatments isfor use on fabrics manu-factured from yarns madefrom synthetic fibres—

One of the treatments, called Baygard WRS, has been designedspecifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns produced fromsynthetic fibres. The treatment is highly durable but does notcompromise the handle of the fabric to which it is applied.

—while the other is for useon fabrics manufacturedfrom yarns made fromcotton or cotton blends

The other treatment, called Baygard WRC, has been designedspecifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns producedfrom cotton, or yarns made from a blend of cotton and syntheticfibres.

The treatments can beused on fabrics for arange of applications

The treatments are suitable for use in the manufacture of fabrics foroutdoor clothing and sportswear, as well as technical fabrics such asawnings, boat covers and upholstery for outdoor furniture.

FIBRES AND YARNS FOR PERFORMANCE APPAREL

TEIJIN FRONTIER HAS DEVELOPED A HIGHPERFORMANCE STRETCH YARN CALLED SOLOTEX OO

Teijin Frontier hasdeveloped a highperformance stretch yarncalled Solotex OO—

Teijin Frontier—a Japan-based producer of performance fibres and adivision of Teijin Group—has developed a high performance stretchyarn called Solotex OO.



—to meet growing demandfor stretch yarns with higherlevels of performance

The company developed the new yarn in order to meet growing demandfor stretch yarns which have higher levels of performance than standardstretch yarns.

Solotex OO is made usingSolotex PTT fibre andRoica polyurethane fibre

Solotex OO is made using Teijin Frontier’s Solotex polytrimethyleneterephthalate (PTT) fibre and Asahi Kasei’s Roica polyurethanefibre.

Solotex PTT fibre has excel-lent stretch and recovery pro-perties and a soft touch andfeel, and Roica is an elastanefibre with excellent stretchand recovery properties

Solotex PTT fibre has a spring-like molecular structure. As a result, ithas excellent stretch and recovery properties. It also has a soft andsupple touch and feel.

Roica is a spandex (elastane) fibre which also has excellent stretch andrecovery properties.

Garments made from fabricscontaining Solotex OO arecomfortable to wear

Fabrics made from Solotex OO have excellent stretch properties andtherefore garments made from such fabrics are very comfortable towear.

Solotex OO can be modifiedto provide a number ofoptional capabilities

Furthermore, Solotex OO can be modified to provide a number ofoptional capabilities—including absorbency, non-translucency, quickdrying properties, thermal insulation and ultraviolet (UV) shielding.

Teijin Frontier aims toincrease its sales ofSolotex OO and develop itsbusiness in the apparelmarket

In the future, Teijin Frontier aims to increase its sales of Solotex OOand develop its business in the apparel market.

Figure 1 Cross-section ofSolotex OO

Source: TeijinFrontier

NEW MATERIALS FOR SPORTS EQUIPMENT

NSP HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF SURFBOARDSAND PADDLEBOARDS MADE FROM COCONUT HUSKFIBRES

NSP has developed a newrange of surfboards andpaddleboards made fromcoconut husk fibres

NSP—a company based in Australia which specialises in surfproducts—has developed a new range of surfboards and paddleboardswhich are made from coconut husk fibres. The range is calledCoco Mat.


2 Epoxy adhesive is a very strong glue, and is made using a class of synthetic thermosetting polymerscontaining epoxide groups.3 See also “Water sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloat”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 43,2nd quarter 2012.


The range is manufacturedusing NSP’s Coco MatTechnology

Surfboards and paddleboards in the Coco Mat range are manufacturedusing NSP’s Coco Mat Technology. The company claims that thetechnology is the world’s first and only method of constructingsurfboards and paddleboards from natural coconut husk fibres.

NSP harvests coconut huskfibres from self-sustainingcoconut trees located nearits manufacturing facilities,and the fibres requireminimal processing

NSP harvests coconut husk fibres from self-sustaining crops ofcoconut trees which are located near to the company’s manufacturingfacilities in Australia.

The fibres are described as random discontinuous fibres and requireminimal processing.

The boards have an EPScore encased in two fibre-glass layers with a coconutfibre layer sandwiched bet-ween them and all layers arebonded with epoxy adhesive

The boards have an expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam core encasedin two layers of fibreglass, which have a layer of coconut fibressandwiched between them.

Epoxy adhesive2 is injected into all the layers in order to bond themtogether.

Coconut husk fibres absorbless epoxy than other mater-ials so the boards are lighterthan traditional boards

Coconut husk fibres absorb less epoxy adhesive than materials whichare used in the manufacture of traditional surfboards andpaddleboards, such as carbon fibre and fibreglass. As a result, boardsin the Coco Mat range are much lighter than traditional boards.

Also, coconut huskfibre has a highstrength-to-weight ratio

Also, coconut husk fibre has a high strength-to-weight ratio. As aresult, Coco Mat boards are among the lightest and strongest on themarket and, according to NSP, they offer “a responsive, fluid ridewith great flex characteristics”.

The boards areavailable in a varietyof models and sizes

The Coco Mat surfboards and paddleboards are available in a varietyof models and sizes. Prices range from US$365 for the Coco Mat Fishsurfboard to US$1,570 for the Coco Mat SUP (stand-up paddleboard).

A video showing the surf-board can be found online

A video which shows a Coco Mat surfboard in use can be found byvisiting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnxEHc7npos.

PERFORMANCE APPAREL FOR WATER SPORTS

SHARK ATTACK MITIGATION SYSTEMS (SAMS) ANDSCIENTISTS FROM THE OCEANS INSTITUTE AT THEUNIVERSITY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA HAVE JOINTLYDEVELOPED TWO NEW WETSUITS WHICH HELP TOPREVENT SHARK ATTACKS

Two wetsuits which help toprevent the wearer frombeing attacked by sharkshave been developed—

Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from theOceans Institute at the University of Western Australia have jointlydeveloped two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent thewearer from being attacked by sharks3.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnxEHc7npos



—in response to a highnumber of fatal attackswhich occurred in 2012

The two parties were prompted to develop the wetsuits in response tothe high number of fatal shark attacks which occurred in the waterssurrounding Western Australia during 2012.

One of the wetsuits, calledElude, camouflages wearersas it is covered in a wavypattern and is available inthree shade of blue

One of the wetsuits, called Elude, has been designed to camouflagesnorkelers and divers when they are swimming in the sea.

The wetsuit is covered in a wavy pattern and is available in threedifferent shades of blue.

The darkest blue wetsuit isfor people diving 15 m belowthe sea, the second darkestblue wetsuit is for peoplediving 5 m below the sea, andthe lightest blue wetsuit is forsnorkelers who swim acrossthe surface of the sea

� The wetsuit in the darkest shade of blue is designed for use bypeople who dive up to 15 m below the surface of the sea.

� The wetsuit in the second darkest shade of blue is designed for useby people who dive up to 5 m below the surface of the sea.

� The wetsuit in the lightest shade of blue is designed for use bysnorkelers, who swim across the surface of the sea.

The pattern and colour ofeach wetsuit mimic the sea’sappearance at certain depths

The pattern and colour of each Elude wetsuit mimic the appearance ofthe sea at a particular depth, and therefore render the wearer of thewetsuit less visible to sharks.

The other wetsuit, calledDiverter, is designed todeter sharks fromattacking the wearer as itis covered with a blackand white striped patternand stripes are associatedwith noxious animals

The other wetsuit, called Diverter, is designed to deter sharks fromattacking the wearer when he or she is swimming in the sea.

The Diverter wetsuit is covered with a black and white striped pattern.In nature, animals which have striped coats or skins in bold coloursrepel potential predators, as the predators associate striped patterns withnoxious animals which should not be eaten. As a result, a person whowears the Diverter wetsuit is said to repel sharks.

Figure 2The Diverter wetsuit (left) and three versions of the Elude wetsuit

Source: Shark Attack Mitigation System (SAMS)



Each of the designs on thewetsuits can be applied towater sports equipment

Each of the designs featured on the Elude wetsuits and the Diverterwetsuit can be applied to surfboards, diving cages, kayaks and otherequipment for water sports.

The wetsuits cost A$495(US$466) each

The wetsuits cost A$495 (US$466) each and are available for purchasevia www.radiator.com, an online store which sells surf wear and divinggear.

SAMS develops apparel andwater sports products whichprotect users from beingattacked by sharks, while theOceans Institute specialisesin marine biology

SAMS is a company based in Perth, Western Australia, which wasestablished specifically to develop apparel and water sports productsthat would help to protect users from being attacked by sharks.

The Oceans Institute is a research department at the University ofWestern Australia which specialises in marine biology.

SMART CLOTHING

HEXOSKIN HAS DEVELOPED A NEW T-SHIRT FITTEDWITH SENSORS WHICH CAN ANALYSE MOVEMENT,BREATHING PATTERNS AND HEART RATE ACTIVITY

Hexoskin has developed anew T-shirt, also calledHexoskin, which is fittedwith sensors that cananalyse movement,breathing patterns andheart rate activity

Hexoskin—a Canada-based technology company—has developed a newT-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that cananalyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity. TheT-shirt is available for men and women.

Figure 3Image showing Hexoskin T-shirt for men

Source: Hexoskin

The T-shirt is made from afabric which has moisturemanagement properties andthermoregulating properties

The T-shirt is made from a high-tech breathable fabric whichhas moisture management properties and thermoregulating properties.It can be worn under any type of sportswear, and is machinewashable.


4 An app is a software application designed to run on smartphones and other mobile devices. It is availablethrough an application distribution platform, which is typically operated by the owner of the mobile phoneoperating system, such as the Apple App Store, BlackBerry App World, Google Play and Windows PhoneMarketplace.


The T-shirt has sensorswhich measure thewearer’s vital signs and adevice which captures suchdata from the sensors

The T-shirt has a number of sensors which measure the wearer’s vitalsigns, including: heart rate and heart rate variability; breathing rateand breathing volume; step count; activity intensity and caloriesburned; heart rate recovery; and estimated maximal oxygenconsumption (VO2). It also has a device which captures such datafrom the sensors.

The device is attached tothe sensors using a wire—

The device sits in a pocket on the side of the T-shirt and is attachedto the sensors using a wire.

—and streams the datafrom the sensors wirelesslyto an online account

The device streams the data captured from the sensors wirelessly toan online account which can be accessed via a mobile device in realtime.

Alternatively, the devicecan store the data until thedata can be transferred

If wireless capabilities are unavailable, then the device can store thedata until the user is able to transfer the data to a mobile device usinga USB cable.

The T-shirt uses dualband sensor technologyand takes precisereadings of the wearer’sbreathing volume usingtwo magnetic sensors

The T-shirt uses dual band sensor technology which ensures that thereadings of the wearer’s cardiac performance are of high quality.

It also takes precise readings of the wearer’s breathing volume usingtwo magnetic sensors which measure the shape of the body when thewearer breathes.

The company hasdeveloped an app whichcan be used by coachesto monitor athletes

The company has developed an app4, called Hexoskin Team, whichworks in conjunction with the T-shirt.

The app can be used by coaches to monitor athletes during trainingroutines.

The T-shirt can measurelevels of stress during theday—

As the T-shirt is able to pick up activity patterns, breathing patternsand heart rate variability, it can measure levels of stress during theday.

—and can monitor thequality of the wearer’ssleep

It can also monitor the quality of the wearer’s sleep using acombination of movement, breathing, and heart sensors which provideinformation about sleep states.

However, the companyis developing furtheralgorithms for monitoringsleep with several partners

However, the company is developing further algorithms for monitoringsleep in collaboration with the Biomedical Engineering department atÉcole Polytechnique de Montréal (Montreal Polytechnic), HôpitalRivière-des-Prairies and other clinical partners.


5 Crowd funding is the practice of funding a project or venture by raising many small amounts of money from alarge number of people, typically via the Internet.


Currently, the companyis raising funds to launchthe T-shirt on to themarket via a campaign ona crowd funding website

Currently, the company is attempting to raise funds in order to launchthe T-shirt on to the market via a campaign on Indiegogo—a USA-basedcrowd funding5 website. Customers can purchase Hexoskin T-shirts viathe Indiegogo website, and the company will begin to deliver theT-shirts to customers from March 2014.

A video showing Hexoskincan be found online

A video showing how Hexoskin works can be found on the Internet byvisiting: http://youtu.be/sjcfHGaZ18Q.

SPORTSWEAR

NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF WOMEN’SSPORTSWEAR CALLED NIKE PRO ELITE

Nike has developed a newrange of sportswear forwomen called Nike ProElite Knit

The USA-based sportswear company Nike has developed a newrange of sportswear for women.

The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, is manufactured using warpknitting technology and includes two styles of tank top and a pair ofleggings.

The garments have a warpknitted construction whichprovides them with excellentstretch properties, and eachgarment is knitted as a singlepiece so they do not containseams which cause discomfort

The garments have a warp knitted construction which provides themwith excellent stretch properties.

Also, each garment in the range is knitted as a single piece, rather thanas a number of panels which are then stitched together. As a result, thegarments do not contain seams which could rub against the wearer’sskin during physical activity and cause discomfort.

Figure 4 Figure 5Tank top from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range Leggings from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range

Source: Nike Source: Nike

http://youtu.be/sjcfHGaZ18Q



A thermodynamic map wasused to determine whichareas of the female bodyheat up the most duringexercise, and the garmentswere designed with smallholes in these areas to allowair to circulate through them

In developing the garments, designers from Nike studied athermodynamic map of the female body in order to determine theparts of the body which heat up the most during exercise.

As a result, the areas of the garments which cover these parts of thebody have been designed with a number of small holes which allowair to circulate through them, thereby keeping the wearer cool duringphysical activity.

The holes can also be usedas a visual guide to checkthe alignment of the body

Furthermore, the holes are arranged in straight lines to enable thewearer to use them as a visual guide and check the alignment of herbody in a mirror during physical activity.

NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW WATERPROOF SPORTSJACKET FOR GOLFERS

Nike has developed a newwaterproof sports jacketfor golfers

Nike—a USA-based sportswear company—has developed a newwaterproof sports jacket for golfers, called Nike HyperadaptStorm-FIT.

Golfers often wear jacketswhich are one size too big sothey do not feel restricted

Nike decided to develop the jacket after learning that golfers oftenwear waterproof jackets which are one size larger than their actual sizeso that they do not feel restricted when swinging a golf club.

However, excess fabricfrom a larger garmentcan distract a golfer

However, the excess fabric from garments which are too large candistract the golfer when he or she is swinging a golf club, and causethe golfer to feel uncomfortable.

The Nike HyperadaptStorm-FIT jacket ishighly flexible

In contrast to regular waterproof jackets, the Nike HyperadaptStorm-FIT jacket is highly flexible and therefore eliminates the needfor the golfer to wear a jacket which is too big.

Its seams are pressurewelded so the inside ofthe jacket is smooth

The seams of the lining of the jacket are pressure welded, whicheliminates the need for sewing. As a result, the inside of the jacket issmooth and the risk of the golfer experiencing discomfort due tobulky seams is reduced.

Also, the arms and yoke ofthe jacket have a four-waystretch construction tomaximise the golfer’smobility, and the armshave adjustable cuffs

In addition, the arms and yoke of the jacket have a four-way stretchconstruction, which maximises the golfer’s mobility when he or sheis performing a swing.

The arms also features adjustable cuffs, which further enhances thecomfort of the jacket for the golfer.

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Waterproof breathable fabrics


Waterproof breathable fabrics:demand for comfort is drivinginnovation

SUMMARY

Waterproof breathable fabrics—which protect against rain, wind and snow while allowing perspirationvapour to escape—are among the most technically advanced in the performance apparel market. Andthey have become even more high-tech as a result of developments in fields as diverse as biomimicry,silicon-based technology (SBT) and plasma technology.

The market for waterproof breathable fabrics is poised to enjoy robust growth as combined demandfrom the outdoor wear, personal protective equipment (PPE), military and other segments is forecastto grow by an average of 5% per annum between 2011 and 2016.

A major beneficiary of this growth will be W L Gore & Associates, which is credited with havingcreated the waterproof breathable category of fabrics in the 1970s with its Gore-Tex PTFE(polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane.

However, many have questioned whether W L Gore & Associates can maintain its stronghold in themarketplace as an increasing number of new products are commercialised. In particular, a numberof suppliers of outdoor fabrics and apparel—including Columbia Sportswear, Polartec and MountainHardwear—have introduced products which claim superior levels of breathability.

The introduction of functional alternatives to Gore-Tex has led to a significant increase in the rangeof choice for consumers. It has also led to greater segmentation in the market, as technologies havebeen developed for specific end uses and weather conditions.

Competition in the industry seems set to intensify, leading to an increase in the tempo of innovationas companies strive to create garments which offer even higher levels of comfort and which can beproduced in an environmentally friendly manner.

INTRODUCTION

Waterproof breathablefabrics prevent moisturein the outside environmentreaching the skin whileallowing moisture vapourto escape, thereby helpingto maintain wearer comfort

Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed to prevent moisture in theoutside environment from reaching the skin while, at the same time,allowing moisture vapour in the form of perspiration to escape.

This functionality plays a critical role in maintaining wearer comfortduring outdoor activities in wet conditions because wet skin can leadto chilling, clamminess and chafing.



Such fabrics comprise micro-scopic pores too small forliquid moisture to penetratebut large enough for mois-ture vapour to pass through

A large number of waterproof breathable fabrics have beencommercialised and most are based on the same principle. In general,such fabrics comprise millions of microscopic pores which are toosmall for liquid moisture to penetrate but are large enough formoisture vapour to pass through.

In the past, fabrics offeringwind and rain protection didnot breathe, making themuncomfortable to wear

In the past, fabrics which offered protection from wind and rain didnot breathe and this made them uncomfortable to wear. Consequently,manufacturers were faced with the challenge of producing a materialwith waterproofness and moisture permeability properties.

However, significant strideshave been made to improvethe functionality of water-proof breathable garments

However, thanks to significant strides in improving the functionalityof waterproof breathable garments, consumers no longer have tochoose between garments which are fully waterproof but lessbreathable, and those which are breathable but less waterproof.

DEVELOPMENT OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLECONSTRUCTIONS

Attempts to createwaterproof barriersin clothing date backcenturies

Attempts to create waterproof barriers in clothing date back centuries.The Incas, for example, are known to have smeared sap from rubberplants over their clothing to repel water. Vikings and Inuits used fishoil while Saxon tribes used animal fat to achieve the same protection.

In modern times, one of theearliest waterproof fabrics tobe developed was Macintosh

In the more modern era, one of the earliest waterproof fabrics to bedeveloped was a rubber coated material, called Macintosh, which wasnamed after a Scottish chemist, Charles Macintosh.

When Macintosh made itsdebut in the early 1820s,rubber-coated fabrics werewidely available butsuffered major drawbacks

When Macintosh made its debut in the early 1820s, rubber-coatedfabrics were already widely available. However, they suffered majordrawbacks. They became stiff, and tended to melt in hot weather. Inaddition, they tended to have an unpleasant smell. Mr Macintoshsought to overcome these drawbacks by treating the rubber in such away that it became stronger and more elastic.

In 1879 Thomas Burberryinvented a waterprooffabric for raincoats calledgabardine

Further advancements in waterproof technology were made towardsthe end of the 1800s. In 1879 Thomas Burberry—a former apprenticeto a country draper in England—invented a waterproof fabric forraincoats called gabardine. The material was constructed from cottonthreads which were waterproofed before weaving.

Gabardines werecommonly worn byBritish servicemen duringthe Second World War

At the time of its introduction, gabardine was considered to be themost breathable waterproof material available. Garments made fromthe material—which became known as “gabardines”—were commonlyworn by British servicemen during the Second World War.



In the 1930s the ShirleyInstitute developed Ventilecotton fabric

In the late 1930s, scientists at the Shirley Institute in Manchester, UK,developed a cotton fabric, known as Ventile, which had a speciallydesigned weave.

Cotton fibres in the fabricswell when wet to stop thepassage of water

Cotton fibres in the fabric swell when they come into contact withwater, and thereby prevent further passage of water through thefabric’s interstices.

Uniforms made fromVentile fabric were worn byRAF fighter pilots duringthe Second World War

Ventile fabric was used extensively in uniforms worn by Britishservicemen during the Second World War. Such uniforms helped toprovide protection for British Royal Air Force (RAF) fighter pilotswho were forced to bail out of their aircraft into the sea.

The 1930s also saw thedevelopment of syntheticpolymers which had a hugeimpact on the industry

The 1930s also saw the development of synthetic polymers, which hada huge impact on the outdoor wear industry as these materials allowedclothing manufacturers to make high performance waterproof garmentsat a relatively low cost.

In the 1950s vinyl and plasticwere used in rainwear

In the 1950s new waterproof materials such as vinyl and plastic founda natural home in rainwear.

In the 1970s the marketwas transformed by theintroduction of Gore-Tex

In the 1970s the market for waterproof materials was transformed bythe introduction of Gore-Tex, a waterproof fabric which was highlybreathable.

Today, Gore-Tex is ahighly recognised brand

Today, Gore-Tex is one of the most recognisable brands in theworld.

Gore-Tex is made byW L Gore & Associates,a company set up byWilbert Gore who leftDuPont to start his ownbusiness and developed aporous film based on Teflon

Gore-Tex is manufactured by W L Gore & Associates, a company setup by Wilbert Lee Gore and his wife, Genevieve Walton Gore.Mr Gore had previously been a research supervisor at DuPont in the1950s. While in this post, he had tried but failed to convince thecompany of the commercial potential of Teflon. He therefore leftDuPont to start his own business and developed a porous film basedon Teflon.

Gore-Tex solved the problemof combining waterproofnessand breathability, butgarments became contami-nated from perspiration

From the outset, the use of Gore-Tex in garments solved the problemof combining waterproofness and breathability.

However, the first generation of garments made from the materialoften became contaminated from perspiration.

However, this problem wasaddressed in subsequentgenerations of Gore-Tex

This problem was addressed in subsequent generations of Gore-Tex,introduced in the 1980s and 1990s and, in more recent years,W L Gore & Associates has introduced more refined versions of theoriginal Gore-Tex.



Figure 1

Global waterproof breathable fabrics market, 2008-16

NB: figures for 2012-16 are estimatesSource: Frost & Sullivan.

2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 20160

100

200

300

400

276.9 277.0 282.2297.0

312.3328.5

343.5359.7

376.5

(mn metres)

Figure 2

Global waterproof breathable fabrics market by end-use application, 2011

Includes construction, personal care, tents, sleeping bags, Source: Frost & Sullivan

Sports and leisure

Personal protective

Medical

Others

77.6%

11.8%

6.0%

4.6%a

a automotive upholstery and luggage

THE MARKET FOR WATERPROOF BREATHABLE FABRICS

The market for waterproofbreathable fabrics is forecastto grow by nearly 5% a yearbetween 2011 and 2016 toreach 376.5 mn metres

According to the market research firm Frost & Sullivan, the globalmarket for waterproof breathable fabrics amounted to 297 mn in2011 and is forecast to reach 376.5 mn metres by 2016, representingan average growth rate of nearly 5% a year over the five-year period(Figure 1).

The largest singleapplication for waterproofbreathable fabrics in 2011was sports and leisure wearwith a 77.6% share

The largest single application for waterproof breathable fabrics is, byfar, sports and leisure wear. Indeed, in 2011 this sector accounted for anestimated 77.6% of the total amount of waterproof breathable fabricsproduced (Figure 2). However, this market is expected to decline as aproportion of the total as it approaches maturity.


1 See also W L Gore has been accused of violating EU competition laws and is being investigatedby the US Federal Trade Commission, “Business update”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 37,2nd quarter 2011, page 94.


Since the 1970s, the marketfor waterproof breathablefabrics has been dominatedby W L Gore & Associates

Since the late 1970s, the market for waterproof breathable fabrics hasbeen dominated by W L Gore & Associates. This domination hascaused much anger among other players in the performance apparelindustry.

In 2010 ColumbiaSportswear filed acomplaint with theEuropean Commissionaccusing W L Gore ofanti-competitive practices

In 2010 USA-based Columbia Sportswear, a supplier of active outdoorapparel, filed a complaint with the European Commission whichaccused W L Gore & Associates of anti-competitive practices1.According to Columbia, W L Gore & Associates was engaging in“unfair business practices, intimidating footwear and glove licenseesinto loyalty and violating antitrust laws by excluding the competition”.

W L Gore denied theallegations and said itoffered the best products

W L Gore & Associates denied the allegations and said that it wassuccessful in the market because it offered the best and mostinnovative products.

WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY IN PERFORMANCE APPAREL

WATERPROOFNESSA fabric labelledwaterproof must providesustained water protectionin very wet conditions

Waterproofness is defined as the ability of a fabric to preventpenetration through its construction by water. A fabric which islabelled waterproof must provide sustained water protection in verywet conditions.

A waterproof fabric isusually tightly woven andthen coated or laminated

A fabric described as waterproof is usually a tightly woven materialwhich has been either coated with or laminated to a polymeric film toprevent water droplets from penetrating the pores in the fabric.

A waterproof garment isdesigned so that allpassages through whichwater can enter, includingseams, are blocked

A waterproof garment is designed so that all passages through whichwater can enter from the outside are blocked. Also, the backs of seamsin a waterproof garment are sealed by taping them, in order to preventwater seeping through holes created in the fabric during the sewing ofthe garment—a process known as strikethrough.

Seams can be sonically sealedto prevent strikethrough

Seams can also be sonically sealed, rather than stitched, to preventstrikethrough.

WATER REPELLENCYA water repellent fabricdiffers from a waterprooffabric in that it resistswater penetration byforcing the water to beadon its outer surface

A water repellent, or shower resistant, fabric is one that has beentreated with a water repellent finish which resists water penetration byforcing the water to bead on the fabric’s outer surface.

A water repellent fabric is therefore not the same as a waterprooffabric—given that waterproofness is the ability of a fabric to preventpenetration through its construction by water.


2 A soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments. It is soft tothe touch, resistant to wind and rain, and highly breathable. A hard shell, by comparison, is an outerweargarment which protects the wearer from inclement weather. It is typically made from a tough andabrasion-resistant material such as nylon.


Garments made from waterrepellent fabrics can onlywithstand light precipitation

Garments, such as conventional soft shell2 jackets, which are madefrom water repellent fabrics can withstand light precipitation but nottorrential downpours.

BREATHABILITYBreathability is importantfor comfort and is the degreeto which a fabric, coating orfilm allows moisture vapourto pass through it

Breathability, or moisture vapour permeability, is considered to be oneof the most important factors for comfort in performance apparel.

Breathability is defined as the degree to which a fabric, coating or filmallows moisture vapour to pass through its construction.

Moisture vapour canpass through a fabricin two ways

Moisture vapour can pass through a fabric in two ways, namely:

● ventilation—whereby moisture vapour passes directly through thepores in the fabric; and

● solid state diffusion—whereby moisture vapour condenses on thefabric’s inner surface and is then pushed through to the fabric’souter surface from which it evaporates (vapour to liquid tovapour).

Breathability is animportant considerationfor maintaining the body’s“microclimate”

If a garment can not breathe, then vapour and excess heat from thebody can not escape. Breathability is an important consideration formaintaining the body’s “microclimate”—the temperature and humidityof the area next to the skin.

The body tries to keep itscore temperature at 37°Cand any extra heat producedmust be eliminated

The human body strives to keep its core temperature at 37°C (98.6°F)and any extra heat produced—for example during physical activity—must be eliminated in order for the body to maintain a comfortabletemperature.

If the normal heat lossmechanisms are notsufficient, the bodyperspires to achieve coolingthrough evaporation

Elimination of the extra heat is normally achieved through threeprocesses: radiation, conduction and convection. During strenuousphysical activity, however, these mechanisms may not prove sufficient.Consequently, the body perspires and excess heat is eliminated throughthe cooling effect of evaporation.

During strenuous exercise,the body can produce twolitres of perspiration inone hour

During moderate exertion, the body produces about half a litre ofperspiration in one hour.

During strenuous exercise, it can produce up to two litres ofperspiration in one hour.

If perspiration can notescape, then wet fabric willcling to the skin and thiscan cause discomfort

If perspiration—in the form of moisture vapour—condenses on theinside of the fabric and can not escape into the atmosphere, then wetfabric will cling to the skin and this can cause discomfort. In coldweather this process may lead to chilling when activity is stopped.


3 A hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the height of anequivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the column, itis possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which canwithstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the waterexceeds this value.4 BS EN 343:2003+A1: 2007, Protective clothing. Protection against rain.5 The pre-treatments are defined as: five laundering cycles; 5,000 abrasions with a standard worsted fabric;and 100,000 flexes or 9,000 flexes carried out on the lines of a Schildknecht flex tester or a crumple testerrespectively.


Thanks to technologicaladvances, the rate atwhich waterproofbreathable fabrics cantransfer perspirationvapour has more thanquadrupled since theearly 1990s

Thanks to technological advances, the rate at which waterproofbreathable fabrics can transfer perspiration vapour has more thanquadrupled since the early 1990s and over the past ten yearsinnovation has been significant. However, many waterproof breathablegarments are still perceived as trapping perspiration when exertionlevels are high. Fabric manufacturers are addressing this problem byputting much effort into making further improvements in membraneand laminate technology.

TESTING STANDARDS FOR WATERPROOFNESS, WATERREPELLENCY AND BREATHABILITY

WATERPROOFNESSThe waterproofness of afabric is determined by theamount of pressure whichcan be applied to thefabric before a certainamount of water is pushedthrough

The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by the amount ofpressure which can be applied to the fabric before water is pushedthrough it. The more a fabric resists the entry of water under pressure,the more waterproof it is said to be. The amount of pressure can bemeasured in pounds per square inch (psi or lb/in2) or kilopascals (kPa),or it can be expressed as the height in millimetres of a column ofwater or hydrostatic head3.

One major company hassaid that its fabrics mustbe able to resist a pressureof at least 25 psi to belabelled waterproof

One major company has stated that, in order to be labelled waterproof,its fabrics must be able to resist a pressure of at least 25 psi. By wayof comparison, the pressure exerted by wind-driven rain is equivalentto about 2 psi while the pressure exerted by hurricane-force rain isroughly 10 psi.

However, this appears tobe stringent in comparisonwith official standards,including the Europeanstandard for protectiveclothing which providesprotection against rain

However, this requirement appears to be quite stringent in comparisonwith official standards. The European standard for protective clothingwhich provides protection against rain4, for example, defines threecategories of garments where lower pressures are permissible, asfollows.

● The first category includes garments which are waterproof whensubjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm, which isequivalent to about 1.1 psi, before certain defined pre-treatments5.



● The second category includes garments which are waterproof whensubjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm (1.1 psi) afterthe pre-treatments.

● The third category includes garments which are waterproof whensubjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 1.3 metres (1.9 psi)after the pre-treatments.

Experience at LeedsUniversity suggests that thepressure should be at least10 psi to ensure durability

However, practical experience at the University of Leeds in the UKsuggests that a minimum hydrostatic head of 7 metres (10 psi) isrequired after pre-treatments if a fabric is to remain waterproof for thelifetime of the garment.

Table 1: Waterproof ratings

Waterproof rating(mm H2O)a Resistance provided What it can withstand0-5,000 No resistance or some resistance to moisture Light rain, dry snow, no pressure6,000-10,000 Rainproof and waterproof under light pressure Light rain, average snow, light pressure11,000-15,000 Rainproof and waterproof except under high pressure Moderate rain, average snow, light pressure16,000-20,000 Rainproof and waterproof under high pressure Heavy rain, wet snow, some pressure>20,000 Rainproof and waterproof under very high pressure Heavy rain, wet snow, high pressurea Hydrostatic head (see page 29).Source: www.evo.com.

Table 2: Waterproof ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics

Waterproof ratingFabric Company (mm H2O)a

Texapore Hyproof O3 Jack Wolfskin 40,000eVent General Electric 30,000Gore-Tex Paclite Shell W L Gore & Associates 28,000Gore-Tex Performance Shell W L Gore & Associates 28,000Gore-Tex Pro Shell W L Gore & Associates 28,000MemBrain Strata Marmot 20,000Pertex Shield+ Mitsui & Co 20,000Helly Tech Helly Hansen 15,000PreCip Marmot 15,000a Hydrostatic head (see page 29).Source: author’s own research.

WATER REPELLENCYWater repellency is testedby a so-called “spray test”

The water repellency of a fabric is tested using a so-called “spraytest”.

This measures the areaof the fabric whichmaintains its beadingproperties and does notbecome saturated

This measures the area of the fabric which maintains its beadingproperties and does not become saturated.

The results are shown as the percentage of the fabric which still beadsup after a given number of washing treatments. For example, a resultof 80/20 would indicate that 80% of the fabric still beads up after 20washings.



BREATHABILITYA large number of testsare used to measurebreathability, but the resultsfrom different test methodsare not directly comparable

A large number of tests are available for measuring breathability, butthe results from different test methods are not directly comparable. Inorder to make a reliable comparison between the breathability of onefabric and that of another, therefore, it is important that both fabricsare tested using the same method under the same conditions.

Breathability is determinedby calculating the moisturevapour transfer rate(MVTR)

Breathability can be determined by calculating the moisture vapourtransfer rate (MVTR)—which is the rate at which a fabric allowsmoisture vapour to pass through to the outside air in a given amountof time.

Moisture vapour transferincreases when theatmosphere outside theclothing is cooler anddrier

When the temperature and humidity are greater on the inside ofclothing than on the outside, moisture vapour will attempt to move tothe outside. Therefore, moisture vapour transfer increases when theatmosphere outside the clothing is cooler and drier. When theatmosphere is hotter and more humid, by contrast, moisture vapourtransfer decreases.

The higher the MVTR,the more breathable thefabric

The MVTR is measured by determining the amount of moisturevapour in grams which passes through 1 m2 of fabric over a 24-hourperiod. The higher the MVTR, the more breathable the fabric.

Table 3: Breathability ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics

Breathability ratingFabric Company (g/m2/24 hours)a

Texapore Hyproof O3 Jack Wolfskin 30,000Gore-Tex Pro Shell W L Gore & Associates 25,000eVent General Electric 22,000MemBrain Strata Marmot 20,000Pertex Shield+ Mitsui & Co 20,000Gore-Tex Performance Shell W L Gore & Associates 17,000Gore-Tex Paclite Shell W L Gore & Associates 15,000Helly Tech Helly Hansen 15,000PreCip Marmot 12,000a Moisture vapour transfer rate (see above).Source: author’s own research.

Breathability can also bedetermined by calculating afabric’s resistance to evapo-rative heat transfer (RET)

The breathability of a fabric can also be determined by calculating itsresistance to evaporative heat transfer (RET).

The lower the RET value, the higher the fabric’s breathability.

RET values can be used toexpress the breathabilityof a single fabric or anentire clothing system

RET values can be used to measure the breathability of an individualpiece of fabric, or an entire clothing system comprising multiplelayers. The total RET value can be calculated by simply adding theRET values of the individual fabric or clothing layers.

Each layer increases theRET value and lowersoverall breathability

The RET value of a naked body is zero. As layers of clothing areadded, each layer and the air between these layers boosts the RETvalue, thereby decreasing overall breathability.



The Hohenstein Institute hascorrelated RET values tophysiological comfort ratings

The Germany-based Hohenstein Institute has correlated RET values tothe physiological comfort of human subjects and has establishedvarious ratings of wear comfort (Table 4).

Table 4: RETa values and wear comfort

RETa value Breathability Wear comfort60 or less Very breathable Very goodMore than 60 but less than or equal to 130 Very breathable GoodMore than 130 but less than or equal to 200 Breathable SatisfactoryMore than 200 but less than or equal to 300 Slightly breathable UnsatisfactoryMore than 300 Not breathable Unsatisfactorya Resistance to evaporative transfer.Source: Hohenstein Institute.

WAYS OF ACHIEVING WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY INAPPAREL

Waterproof breathability isachieved by using tightlywoven fabrics or adding atechnology

Waterproof breathability in a garment can be achieved by usingtightly woven fabrics or incorporating a waterproof breathabletechnology.

TIGHTLY WOVEN FABRICSNaturally breathablefabrics can be made bytightly weaving them frommicrofibres but thesefabrics tend to be heavy

A tightly woven fabric can block the penetration of wind or rain fromthe outside while allowing moisture vapour from the inside to escape.

Naturally breathable fabrics can be made by tightly weaving themfrom microfibres. However, because of their dense weave, thesefabrics tend to be relatively heavy.

Also, such fabrics are notinherently waterproof

Also, such fabrics are not inherently waterproof. Water can penetratein certain conditions, making them unsuitable for use in very wetweather.

Ripstop fabric is waterrepellent, wind resistantand tear resistant, thanksto its special construction

Ripstop fabric is water repellent and wind resistant. The fabric isusually made from nylon or polyester, and is tightly woven withdouble threads at regular intervals to prevent tears in the fabric fromspreading. This type of construction gives the fabric a grid-likeappearance.

WATERPROOF BREATHABLE TECHNOLOGIESConventional waterproofbreathable technologies forapparel can be broadlysplit into two categories

Conventional waterproof breathable technologies for apparel can bebroadly split into two categories, namely:

● coated fabrics; and● laminated fabrics.

A coating can be thought ofas paint and a laminate aswallpaper

A coating can be thought of as paint spread on a wall while a laminatecan be thought of as wallpaper glued to a wall.


6 The term laminate is sometimes used in the waterproof breathable sector to refer to a film or membrane.However, the strict definition of a laminate in this context is a fabric which comprises two or more layersbonded together.7 Expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) is a stretched form of PTFE. PTFE was invented accidentally in1938 when Roy Plunkett of DuPont was attempting to make a new chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) refrigerantusing tetrafluoroethylene gas. The latter underwent polymerisation in a pressurised storage container becauseiron on the inside of the container acted as a catalyst. The process was subsequently patented and PTFEcoating was registered under the name Teflon in 1945. Later the brand became synonymous with non-stickcookware.


Coated fabricsCoated fabrics are morewidely used in waterproofbreathable garments thanlaminated fabrics as theyare less expensive

Coated fabrics are more widely used in waterproof breathablegarments than laminated fabrics as they are less expensive. Indeed,coated fabrics account for roughly 80% of the total market forwaterproof breathable fabrics. This share could be higher if it were notfor the fact that coated fabrics tend to be less breathable and durable.

A polymer coating isapplied to a tightly wovenabrasion resistant fabric

A coated fabric for a waterproof breathable garment is normallyproduced by applying a polymer coating to a tightly woven abrasionresistant fabric.

The coating is applied tothe face nearest to the skinby spraying or rolling

The coating is applied to the face of the fabric which is nearest to theskin, either by spraying or rolling.

Laminated fabricsA laminated fabricincorporates a thinmembrane which resistswater penetration and yetallows the passage ofwater vapour

A laminated fabric, or laminate6, is formed by attaching a thinmembrane, using an adhesive, to an abrasion-resistant densely wovenfabric made from nylon or polyester.

The membrane resists water penetration and yet allows the passage ofwater vapour.

Membranes can bemade from a numberof materials

Typically, membranes are made from:

● expanded polytetrafluoroethylene7 (ePTFE);● polyurethane films;● polyester films; and● polyethylene.

Coatings and membranesThe main waterproofbreathable fabrics on themarket have a coating ormembrane which ismicroporous—

The main waterproof breathable fabrics on the market today have acoating or membrane which takes one of the following three forms:

● a microporous coating or membrane, whose microscopic poresallow water vapour, but not liquid, to pass through the fabric;

—non-porous— ● a non-porous, or monolithic, coating or membrane, which iscapable of absorbing moisture vapour from the inside of the fabricand pushing it through to the outside; or

—or a bicomponent whichis a combination of the two

● a bicomponent coating or membrane, which offers a combinationof the two.


8 A micron is a millionth (10-6) of a metre.


In microporous coatings ormembranes, the pores arebigger than perspirationvapour molecules butsmaller than raindrops—

In microporous coatings or membranes, the individual porestypically range from 0.1 to 1.0 microns8 in diameter. They are biggerthan the diameter of perspiration vapour molecules (approximately0.0004 microns) but are smaller than those of raindrops (greater than3.0 microns).

—so water vapour(perspiration) canpass through butraindrops can not

This means that perspiration vapour can pass through and yetraindrops can not. The larger the pores of the coating or film, themore breathable but the less waterproof is the fabric to which it isapplied. Conversely, the smaller the pores, the more waterproof but theless breathable is the resulting fabric.

A non-porous coating orfilm uses molecularmovement within thehydrophilic polymer fromwhich the coating or filmis made in response totemperature changes todrive moisture from theinside to the outside ofthe fabric

A non-porous coating or film uses molecular movement within thehydrophilic polymer from which the coating or film is made to drivemoisture from the inside to the outside of the fabric.

The molecular movement results from thermal vibration in responseto temperature changes—the higher the temperature, the greater themovement. In this way, the heat generated by the body inside thefabric of a garment drives water vapour down the polymer chains inthe coating or film to the external face of the fabric. The molecules ofwater migrate from chain to chain rather than freely through a physicalhole or pore.

As the body produces moremoisture, the distance bet-ween the molecular chainsincreases, thus allowing evenmore moisture to migrate

As the body produces more moisture, the distance between themolecular chains increases, thereby enabling even more migration ofmoisture to take place. In other words, the hydrophilic polymer willswell as water molecules are absorbed—and the greater the amount ofmoisture produced, the greater the swelling.

A bicomponent offers thebenefits of both types whileremoving a drawback ofmicroporous materials

A bicomponent coating or film uses a combination of microporousand non-porous materials. In doing so, it achieves the benefits of bothtypes while eliminating a major disadvantage of microporousmaterials.

Microporous componentsresist the passage of liquidwater, but readily allowwater vapour and othergases to flow

Microporous coatings or films are inherently hydrophobic and containvery small pores. These pores resist the passage of liquid water, evenat very high pressures, but readily permit the flow of water vapour andother gases. Microporous coatings or films are breathable becauseliquid sweat is evaporated inside the garment, and the resulting vapourdiffuses through the coating or film to the outside.

But perspiration emittedduring strenuous activitycontains surface activeagents which graduallycoat the interior surfacesof the pores and cause thewaterproof characteristicsto be lost

But a problem arises when microporous materials are used for verystrenuous activity, resulting in heavy sweating. This is becauseperspiration contains surface active agents which gradually penetratethe coating or film and then coat the interior surfaces of the pores. Asa result, the coating or film loses its waterproof characteristics andwicks moisture through. This occurs because the surface agents lowerthe surface tension of liquid water from rain, and the water can thenpass through the fabric from the outside to the inside.


9 A face fabric is the outer layer of a waterproof breathable fabric.


The problem can be solvedby adding a thin layer ofnon-porous hydrophilicpolymer to the inside ofthe microporous surface

Fortunately, it is possible to prevent these contaminants from reachingthe pores. This can be achieved by adding a thin layer of a non-poroushydrophilic polymer film to the inside of the microporous surfacewhich is closest to the skin to form a bicomponent fabric. The filmstill allows water vapour to pass through, which means that thefabric’s breathability is maintained.

Liquid sweat can beabsorbed by the hydrophiliclayer and still transmittedthrough the fabric

Adding a hydrophilic layer in this way has the additional benefit thatliquid sweat can be absorbed by the hydrophilic layer and stilltransmitted through the fabric. This does not happen with truemicroporous materials.

In eVent fabrics, anoleophobic layer aroundindividual ePTFE filamentsprotects the membranefrom contaminants

eVent fabric (see page 41) has a membrane comprising individualfilaments of ePTFE which are surrounded with an oleophobic coating.

The coating protects the membrane from contaminants such as dirt,body oils, cosmetics and sunscreen lotion.

DURABLE WATER REPELLENT (DWR) FINISHESA DWR finish works bylowering the surface energyof the outer face of thefabric, causing water drop-lets to bead up and roll off

A durable water repellent (DWR) finish can be applied to a fabric inthe form of a hydrophobic finish. DWR finishes are usuallyfluorocarbon-based, and work by lowering the surface energy, orsurface tension, of the outer face of the fabric. Lowering the surfacetension of the fabric causes water droplets to bead up and roll off.

A DWR finish does notinhibit breathability

A DWR finish does not inhibit breathability as it does not coat thefabric. Instead, it bonds to the fibres in the fabric.

It is applied by sprayingor immersing the fabric

The finish is applied to the fabric during manufacture, either throughspraying or by immersing the fabric in a chemical bath.

The finish prevents lightrain from penetrating it

The finish prevents light rain from penetrating but it does not provideprotection against torrential rain.

A DWR-treated fabric canabsorb water amounting to30-50% of its own weightas a result of “wet-out”

In fact, a fabric treated with a DWR finish can absorb an amount ofwater equal to 30-50% of its own weight as a result of “wet-out”, theeffect seen when water begins to soak into the face fabric9. Wet-outcompromises the breathability of a fabric as the flow of moisture frominside the fabric is blocked by water on the outside.

DWR finishes are usedwith laminates or coatings

DWR finishes are used routinely in conjunction with laminates orcoatings.

Their effectiveness canbe affected by dirt andother contaminants

The effectiveness of DWR finishes can be adversely affected by dirt,residues from detergents, oil, chemicals and other contaminants, whichalter the fabric’s surface tension.


10 The eight companies are Arkema, Asahi Glass Company, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (now BASF), Clariant,Daikin, DuPont, Dyneon (a subsidiary of 3M) and Solvay Solexis.11 For further information, see “Leading Edge Technologies for Textile Finishing”, Textile OutlookInternational, No 152, September 2011.


They are not permanentand tend to wear off overtime, but their performancecan be boosted by wash-intreatments and machinedrying

In addition, DWR finishes are not permanent and tend to wear offover time.

However, their performance can be boosted by wash-in impregnationsand machine drying a garment to which the finish has beenapplied.

WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS

COMPOSITION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLEGARMENTS

Laminates, coatingsand DWR finishesincorporating fluoro-carbons are highlyeffective in makinggarments resistant towater, oil and dirt

Laminates, coatings and durable water repellent (DWR) finishes areused in most high-tech waterproof breathable garments.

Many of these products contain fluorocarbons. These are organofluorinecompounds which contain only carbon and fluorine bonded together instrong carbon-fluorine bonds. Such compounds are used to makegarments resistant to water, oil and dirt, and they are highly effective indoing so.

But PFOA may bepresent in trace amountsas a pollutant and is“likely to becarcinogenic” andbioaccumulative

However, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) may be present in traceamounts as a pollutant, and PFOA has been declared “likely to becarcinogenic to humans” by the US Environmental Protection Agency(EPA).

Also, PFOA is known to have bioaccumulative properties in that ittends to be stored in the bodies of humans and animals.

The EPA has started a pro-gramme with eight chemicalcompanies to eliminate theuse of PFOA by 2015

Following investigations into the potential health risks posedby PFOA, the EPA initiated a programme with eightchemical companies10 to eliminate the use of this substance by2015.

Manufacturers have intro-duced fluorochemicals basedon C4 and C6 fluorocarbonsas they are seen as lessharmful than conventionalfluorochemicals based on C8fluorocarbons but thosebased on C6 fluorocarbonsare not as effective as theirC8 counterparts

In response to growing concerns among outdoor apparel suppliers andthe public about the dangers associated with PFOA, manufacturershave introduced fluorochemicals with shorter fluorinated side chainsbased on C4 and C6 fluorocarbons as these are regarded as being lessharmful than conventional fluorochemicals based on C8fluorocarbons11.

However, while fluorochemicals based on C6 fluorocarbons areregarded as being less harmful than their C8 counterparts, they are notas effective at repelling water.



CONSTRUCTION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLEGARMENTS

A waterproof breathable gar-ment has two or more layers

A waterproof breathable garment is typically made from a materialcomprising two or more layers.

A 2-layer construction hasan abrasion resistant facefabric and a coating

A 2-layer construction is made from an abrasion resistant facefabric—usually polyester or nylon—to which a membrane or coatinghas been applied.

A 2.5-layer constructionhas an outer layer, amembrane and a half-layer

A 2.5-layer construction comprises an outer layer, a membrane and ahalf-layer, which may comprise laminated “dots”, a grid pattern orresins. These are designed to provide abrasion resistance.

A 3-layer construction has alaminate between a facefabric and a liner fabric,while a 4-layer constructionhas a face fabric, a mem-brane, a coating and a lining

A 3-layer construction comprises a laminate sandwiched between aface fabric and a liner fabric.

A 4-layer construction is made up of a face fabric, a microporousmembrane, a hydrophilic coating and a moisture wicking lining.

DESIGN FEATURES OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLEGARMENTS

Garment design is key toenhancing the waterproofbreathability of apparel,and many garments boasta number of featureswhich promotephysiological comfort

Garment design plays a key role in enhancing the waterproofbreathability of apparel worn for outdoor sports and recreationalactivities.

Most high quality garments designed for these activities boast designfeatures which promote physiological comfort. Such features include:

● adjustable closures;● core vent pockets;● drawstring hems;● pit zips;● powder skirts;● storm flaps; and● waterproof seams.

Adjustable closures canregulate airflow to andfrom the wearer’s armsand legs

Adjustable closures around the wrists of a jacket and the ankles ofpants can be tightened or loosened to regulate airflow to and from thewearer’s arms and legs. They are typically constructed from hook andloop tapes.

Core vent pockets increaseairflow when opened

Core vent pockets are specially designed pockets which increaseairflow when opened, thereby enhancing breathability.

Drawstring hems seal outcold air, rain and snow,and can help to regulateair circulation within thegarment

Drawstring hems are featured on many waterproof jackets and pants.They perform the same function as hook and loop closures by sealingout cold air, rain and snow. The hems contain an elasticated cordwhich can be tightened or loosened to regulate air circulation withinthe garment.



Pit zips allow perspirationvapour to escape

Pit zips are zips located on the underarms of a jacket. When opened,they allow perspiration vapour to escape.

A powder skirt fits aroundthe waist of the lining of ajacket and resists penetrationof air and moisture

A powder skirt is a piece of fabric with elasticated hems and snapclosures, which fits around the waist of the lining of a jacket.

Like a drawstring hem, it resists penetration of air and moisture.

Storm flaps stop moisturefrom entering zips

Storm flaps are pieces of material which cover zips to preventmoisture from penetrating through zip teeth.

Waterproof seams preventwater from seeping through

Waterproof seams are those which have been sealed with tape or asealant to prevent water from seeping through.

APPLICATIONS OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS

Waterproof breathablefabrics have a numberof key applications inclothing

The key applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in clothing arein:

● sportswear;● leisure wear;● personal protective equipment (PPE); and● medical clothing.

The fabrics are usedmainly for outer layergarments to protect thewearer from the elementswithout compromisingthe performance of baselayer and middle layergarments

In these applications, the fabrics are used mainly for outer layergarments. The primary function of outer layer garments is to protectthe wearer from the elements—wind, rain and snow.

This protection must be achieved without compromising theperformance of the base layer garment—which provides moisturemanagement—and the middle layer garment, which provides warmthand insulation.

Fabrics vary greatly intheir ability to keep waterout and their ability toallow moisture vapour toescape

Waterproof breathable fabrics vary greatly in their ability to keepwater out and their ability to allow moisture vapour to escape. Despitesignificant innovation, achieving waterproof breathability whilemaintaining durability involves a trade-off: the more waterproof thefabric the less able it is to breathe, and vice versa.

The most importantconsideration in selectinga waterproof breathablegarment is the applicationfor which it is to be used

The most important consideration in selecting a waterproof breathablegarment is the application for which it is to be used. A trulywaterproof fabric must have the ability to withstand water when usedfor different activities in adverse weather conditions—for example,when hiking in wind driven rain, while fishing, and while sitting onwet surfaces.


12 Woven linings tend to be less breathable than mesh linings.


The perceived comfort ofa waterproof breathablegarment depends on thewearer’s activity level

The perceived comfort of a waterproof breathable garment depends onthe wearer’s activity level. Higher activity levels cause the body tocreate more moisture vapour. This must be transported to the outsideof the garment efficiently in order to prevent discomfort. The moreactive the wearer, the more breathability is desired.

There are also a numberof other factors whichaffect the comfort of awaterproof breathablegarment

Other factors which affect the comfort of a waterproof breathablegarment include:

● the ambient temperature;● the level of humidity;● the metabolism of the wearer;● the thickness of the garment’s face fabric;● the type of clothing worn underneath the garment;● the type of garment lining12;● the use of vents such as zips; and● the wind speed.

Waterproof breathablefabrics have a wide rangeof applications in theleisure wear market andthe workwear market

Waterproof breathable fabrics have a wide range of applications in theleisure wear market and the workwear market (Table 5).

They are also used extensively in items such as sleeping bags, tentsand mattresses.

Table 5: Applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in apparel, footwear and accessories

Leisure wearHeavy-duty, foul weather clothing Anoraks, cagoules, gaiters, gloves, hats, over-trousersFashionable weather protection Golf apparel, rainwear, skiwear, walking boot liningsWorkwearFoul weather clothing Clean room garments, special military protective clothing, surgical garments,

survival suitsSource: Handbook of technical textiles, AR Horrocks and SC Anand.

But in many applications,waterproof breathablefabrics are required topossess other functionalcharacteristics

In many applications, however, waterproof breathable fabrics arerequired to possess other functional characteristics—as well aswaterproofness and breathability.

Such characteristics include mechanical strength, abrasion resistanceand durability to repeated washing.

INNOVATIONS IN WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS

APT FABRICS: ACLIMATISEAclimatise, developed byAPT Fabrics, is claimedto be the “world’s firstthermoregulating, water-proof, breathable andwindproof fleece” fabric

Aclimatise is claimed by its developers, APT Fabrics, to be the“world’s first thermoregulating, waterproof, breathable and windprooffleece” fabric.

APT Fabrics is a UK-based company which specialises in thedevelopment of technical waterproof breathable fabrics.



The fabric consists ofan outer fabric treatedwith a DWR finish and abreathable polyurethanemembrane attached to amoisture wicking andantistatic lining

The fleece fabric consists of an outer fabric and a breathablepolyurethane membrane to which a moisture wicking and antistaticlining has been attached.

The outer surface of the fabric is treated with a durable water repellent(DWR) finish which prevents water from being absorbed into thefabric.

CLARIANT: ARKOPHOB FFRArkophob FFR is afluorine-free finishingtreatment, developed byClariant, which providesfabrics with waterrepellency properties

Arkophob FFR is a fluorine-free finishing treatment which providesfabrics with water repellency properties.

The treatment was developed by Clariant—a Switzerland basedcompany which specialises in the research and development ofspeciality chemicals for a wide range of applications.

Its water repellency perfor-mance is claimed to be bet-ter than equivalent products

The company claims that the water repellency performance ofArkophob FFR is better than that of equivalent fluorine-free productswhich are available on the market.

When Arkophob FFR isapplied to the surface ofa fabric it forms a film

When Arkophob FFR is applied to the surface of a fabric it forms aneven and highly durable film, and provides the fabric with a softhandle and pleasant touch.

The treated fabric hasimproved tear strength andabrasion resistance, and thetreatment has no adverseimpact on its breathability

In addition, the treated fabric has improved tear strength and betterabrasion resistance than untreated fabric.

At the same time, the treatment has no adverse impact on thebreathability of the fabric to which it is applied.

The treatment remains formore than 20 washes, aperformance close to thatof treatments made usingC6 fluorochemicals

The treatment remains for more than 20 washes—a performance whichis close to that of water repellent treatments made using C6fluorochemicals and better than the performance of other fluorine-freeproducts.

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR: OMNI-DRYColumbia Sportswear’sOmni-Dry is based on apolyethylene membranewhich is much thinnerand lighter than PTFEmembranes

Omni-Dry is a proprietary waterproof breathable technologyintroduced by Columbia Sportswear in 2011.

The technology is based on a polyethylene membrane which is saidto be much thinner and lighter in weight than polytetrafluoroethylene(PTFE) membranes.

When it was introduced, itwas claimed that it would“take down Gore-Tex”

At the time of its introduction, Columbia Sportswear’s marketingmaterial claimed that the product would “take down Gore-Texand other dinosaurs in the industry that stopped trying a long timeago”.



DOW CORNING: DOW CORNING DWR-7000 SOFT HYDROGUARD

Dow Corning DWR-7000Soft Hydro Guard is anSBT emulsion finishingtreatment which provideswater repellent propertiesand softness

Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is a silicon-basedtechnology (SBT) emulsion finishing treatment which providessportswear with water repellent properties and softness.

The treatment was developed by Dow Corning, a USA-based providerof silicones and SBT for a number of industries.

The emulsion does not usefluorine and APEOs, andis therefore claimed to bemore environmentallyfriendly than conventionalwater repellent treatments

The emulsion does not use fluorine and solvents of alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs), and is therefore claimed to be friendlier to theenvironment than conventional water repellent treatments.

According to Dow Corning, the silicones used in the product have notoxic side effects and do not negatively affect the environment.

Tests show that thetreatment remains durableafter a garment treatedwith the emulsion has beenlaundered 30 times

Tests have shown that the water repellency provided by Dow CorningDWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard remains durable after a garment treatedwith the emulsion has been laundered 30 times in a domestic washingmachine. This is the same as, or better than, the durability provided byconventional fluorocarbon water repellent finishing systems.

The treatment is compatiblewith most textile auxiliaries,and does not need heatreactivation, additionalperformance extenders,softeners or lubricants tomaintain its properties

Furthermore, Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard iscompatible with, and maintains its stability in the presence of, mosttextile auxiliaries.

Also, it does not need heat reactivation, additional performanceextenders, softeners or lubricants for treated garments to maintain theproperties provided by the treatment.

Dow Corning DWR-7000Soft Hydro Guard waslaunched at the AATCC2012 InternationalConference

Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard was launched at theAmerican Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)2012 International Conference held in Charlotte, North Carolina, USA,in March 2012.

GE (GENERAL ELECTRIC): EVENT DVLeVent DVL is a waterproofbreathable materialproduced by GE

eVent DVL (direct venting line) is a waterproof breathable materialproduced by the USA-based conglomerate GE (General Electric). Thefabric forms part of the company’s eVent fabrics collection.

eVent fabrics wereoriginally developed foruse in industrial airfiltration systems

eVent fabrics were originally developed for use in air filtrationsystems for gas turbines and other industrial applications. However, itwas later discovered that they were effective as waterproof breathablematerials which could be used in clothing.

eVent DVL waterprooffabric contains a proprietaryePTFE membrane—

eVent DVL waterproof fabric contains GE’s proprietaryexpanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) hydrophobic microporousmembrane.



—which has individualePTFE filaments surroundedwith an oleophobic coatingthat protects the membranefrom contaminants, ratherthan relying on apolyurethane film

The membrane has individual filaments of ePTFE, which aresurrounded with an oleophobic coating. The coating protects themembrane from contaminants such as dirt, body oils, cosmetics andsunscreen lotion.

Unlike other waterproof breathable materials, the membrane does notrely on a polyurethane film to protect it from these contaminants.

Moisture vapour underneaththe membrane is ventedthrough the membranewithout first making thatsurface wet

Consequently, moisture vapour on the surface underneath themembrane is vented directly through the membrane without firstmaking that surface wet.

The fabric’s breathability is based on direct venting technology, whichenables moisture vapour to “vent” directly to the outside of the fabric.

This contrasts with thetwo-step process used bymany other waterproofbreathable technologies

This contrasts with the two-step process used by many otherwaterproof breathable technologies. In the case of the latter, moistureis transported to a polyurethane coating on the inside of the fabric.Once the moisture is absorbed by the coating, it is pushed through tothe outside of the fabric in response to a build-up of heat on the insideof the fabric.

The membrane is createdby coating each ePTFEfibril individually

The membrane is created by coating each fibril of the ePTFE materialindividually, leaving spaces between the fibrils for moisture vapour toescape.

A protective print isapplied on top of themembrane

On top of the membrane, a protective print—which comprises arepeating web of outlined triangular shapes—is applied. This providesthe membrane with a durable protective screen.

The fabrics are suitable forgarments for light activities

eVent DVL fabrics are especially suitable for garments worn for lightoutdoor activities such as cycling and running.

The ePTFE membranesused in these fabrics complywith the requirements ofOeko-Tex Standard 100

In October 2013 GE announced that the ePTFE membranes used inthese fabrics had been shown to comply with the requirements ofOeko-Tex Standard 100, which certifies that the membranes are freefrom substances that are harmful to humans and the environment.

HEIQ MATERIALS: BARRIER ECOBarrier ECO, developedby HeiQ Materials, is awater repellent finishbased on a fluorine-freetechnology which providesreliable water, oil andstain repellency

Barrier ECO is a water repellent finish developed by HeiQ Materials,a Switzerland-based company which develops and manufacturesinnovative textile effects.

The finish is based on a fluorine-free technology which offers reliablewater, oil and stain repellency. In addition, it complies with bluesign,one of the world’s most rigorous textile production standards.

The technology results inthe creation of micro-sizedparticles on a fabric’ssurface—

The technology results in the creation of a three-dimensional (3D)structure composed of special micro-sized particles on the surface ofa fabric.



—which helps to minimisethe contact area betweenwater or oil and the fabric

This structure helps to minimise the contact area between water or oiland the fabric and, in turn, prevents water, oil and stains fromadhering to the fabric’s surface.

Barrier ECO provides goodabrasion resistance and asoft handle

According to HeiQ Materials, Barrier ECO provides fabrics with goodabrasion resistance and a soft handle.

HELLY HANSEN: HELLY TECHHelly Tech is a waterproofbreathable polyurethanefabric from Helly Hansen

Helly Tech is the name of a proprietary waterproof breathablefabric which was introduced by Norway-based Helly Hansenin 1984.

Helly Tech fabrics areconstructed with a thinmembrane or with severalthin polymer coatings

Helly Tech fabrics are constructed in two ways.

● One way is to construct the fabrics with a thin membrane whichtransports moisture.

● The other way is to apply several thin layers of polymer to thereverse side of the fabric.

Both are equally efficientat releasing moisture

Both systems are said to be equally efficient at releasing bodymoisture.

Micropores let the fabricbreathe but keep water out

Micropores in the fabric allow the fabric to breathe without lettingwater molecules penetrate from the outside.

Helly Tech fabrics canwithstand a hydrostatichead of 15 metres and havea breathability rating of15,000 g/m2 over 24 hours

The company claims that Helly Tech fabrics can withstand ahydrostatic head of 15 metres (21.4 psi).

In addition, they have a breathability rating of 15,000 g/m2 over aperiod of 24 hours.

Seams are sealed to ensurethe garment is waterproof

In garments made from the fabric, all seams are sealed to ensure thatthe whole garment is waterproof.

There are three versionsof Helly Tech fabrics

Helly Hansen offers three versions of Helly Tech fabrics, namely:

● Helly Tech Professional;● Helly Tech Performance; and● Helly Tech Protection.

Helly Tech Professionalis a 3-layer fabric

Helly Tech Professional is a 3-layer fabric designed for garmentsworn by professional sailors, ski patrollers and mountain safetypersonnel.

Helly Tech Performanceis a 2.5-layer fabric

Helly Tech Performance is a 2.5-layer fabric which is used ingarments worn for activities such as skiing and mountain climbing.

Helly Tech Protectionis a 2-layer fabric

Helly Tech Protection is a 2-layer fabric which is used in garmentsworn for activities carried out in wet, cold and windy weather.


13 See also “Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand”, starting on page 61 of this issue.


HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS: PHOBOTEXPhobotex is the name ofa range of fluorine-freefinishing treatments fromHuntsman Textile Effectswhich provide fabrics withthe ability to repel waterand everyday stains

Phobotex is the name of a range of fluorine-free finishing treatmentsdeveloped by Huntsman Textile Effects—a Singapore-based companywhich supplies chemicals and dyes for textile materials.

Each of the treatments in the range is able to provide a wide range offabrics with the ability to repel water and everyday stains, such asthose caused by mud and grass.

The range includes awater-based finishingtreatment which iseffective for up to30 washes

The range includes a water-based finishing treatment which remainseffective for up to 30 washes at a temperature of 40°C. Moreover,Huntsman claims that the treatment provides the product to which ithas been applied with a softer finish compared with conventionaltreatments which provide a similar level of performance.

All of the treatments in therange are considered to beenvironmentally friendly

All of the treatments in the range are considered to be moreenvironmentally friendly than conventional treatments which providea similar level of performance as they do not contain fluorine.

Also, they are suitablefor use by signatorycompanies of the ZeroDischarge of HazardousChemicals (ZDHC)programme

In addition, they are suitable for use by signatory companies of theZero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme. TheZDHC programme provides participating companies with guidance asto how they can reduce the amounts of hazardous chemicals in theirsupply chains and products, with a view to eliminating them altogetherby 2020.

JACK WOLFSKIN: TEXAPORETexapore is apolyurethane-basedwaterproof breathabletechnology from JackWolfskin

Texapore is a polyurethane-based waterproof breathable technologydeveloped by Germany-based Jack Wolfskin13.

The latter is one of Europe’s leading suppliers of functional outdoorclothing.

There are over 40different types ofTexapore fabric

The company offers more than 40 different types of Texapore fabric,each of which has a specific level of waterproofness andbreathability.

The company hasdeveloped ten levels ofwaterproof breathability

The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability.

● Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is bondedsecurely to an outer fabric.

● Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes.

● The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology whichinvolves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes.



The level of waterproofbreathability needed isdetermined by the outdooractivity for which the garm-ent is intended to be worn

The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment madefrom Texapore fabric is determined by the outdoor activity for whichthe garment is intended to be worn. For alpine hiking jackets, forexample, a triple-layered fabric construction with very high levels ofwaterproofness and breathability is used.

Texapore fabric is offeredin three main versions

Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which isdesigned for a specific activity level:

● stretch;● extra lightweight; and● extra robust.

LOWE ALPINE: TRIPLEPOINT CERAMICTriplepoint Ceramic is awaterproof breathablecoating technology found inLowe Alpine garments

Triplepoint Ceramic is a waterproof breathable coating technologyfeatured in garments designed by Lowe Alpine—a subsidiary ofUK-based Equip Outdoors Technologies, which specialises in thesupply of outdoor apparel and accessories.

It contains ceramic particleswhich create a uniformmatrix of nano-sized poresthat provide a pathway formoisture vapour to escape

The coating differs from other waterproof breathable coatings in thatit contains ceramic particles which create a uniform matrix of nano-sized pores.

These pores provide a pathway for moisture vapour to escape.

It is said to be waterproof,windproof and highlybreathable

Triplepoint Ceramic is said to be waterproof and windproof as well ashighly breathable.

MARMOT: MEMBRAIN STRATAMemBrain Strata fabricfrom Marmot consists of2.5 layers and containsnon-organic particles onthe inside of apolyurethane laminate

MemBrain Strata is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by theUSA-based company Marmot, a producer of outdoor apparel andequipment.

The fabric consists of 2.5 layers and contains non-organic particles onthe inside of a polyurethane laminate.

It is more breathable, issofter and offers greaterstretch than other 2.5-layercoated fabrics

MemBrain Strata is said to be more breathable, to be softer andto offer greater stretch than other 2.5-layer coated fabrics on themarket.

MARMOT: NANOPRONanoPro, from Marmot, isa waterproof breathablefabric which allowsmoisture vapour toevaporate more quickly

NanoPro is a waterproof breathable fabric introduced by Marmot.

The fabric is said to allow moisture vapour to evaporate morequickly without compromising waterproof performance or windprotection.

The coating in NanoPro is43% more breathable thanprevious fabrics it has used

According to the company, the coating used in NanoPro is 43% morebreathable than previous fabrics it has used in its range of outdoorjackets.



Jackets made from the fabricwill feature in the company’s2014 clothing collection

Jackets made from the new fabric will form part of the company’s2014 outdoor clothing collection.

MARMOT: PRECIPPreCip is a lightweight andcompressible fabric

PreCip is said to be Marmot’s lightest and most compressiblewaterproof breathable fabric.

Its barrier technology usesmicroporous polyurethanewith silicon dioxideparticles that allow tinywater vapour moleculessuch as perspiration topass through, but preventthe passage of largermolecules such as raindroplets

The key to PreCip is a microporous polyurethane barrier materialwhich contains silicon dioxide particles.

These particles create many small and consistent holes which allowtiny water vapour molecules to pass through the material. Larger liquidmolecules, however, are not able to pass through the material.

As a result, rain can not penetrate the fabric but perspiration vapouris able to penetrate and move to the outside of the fabric.

MITSUI & CO: PERTEXPertex is a brand of breath-able fabrics for sleepingbags and outdoor apparel

Pertex is a brand of waterproof breathable fabrics for sleepingbags and outdoor apparel. The brand is owned by Japan-basedMitsui & Co.

Pertex Shield+ has veryhigh waterproof andbreathability ratings

Pertex Shield+ is a fabric with very high waterproof and breathabilityratings. It is used to make lightweight garments for applications suchas alpine climbing, cycling and skiing.

Pertex Endurance is alightweight, breathablenylon fabric with amicroporous coating anda membrane whichfacilitates breathability

Pertex Endurance is a lightweight, breathable nylon fabric with amicroporous coating. The fabric is used mainly for sleeping bags.

The fabric has a membrane containing many hydrophilic moleculeswhich facilitate breathability. The molecules create pathways for themoisture to escape by means of diffusion into the atmosphere.

The outer surface of thefabric has a DWR finish

The outer surface of the fabric has a DWR finish which prevents waterfrom being absorbed into the nylon.

The Pertex Endurancesystem allows watervapour produced by thebody to escape into theatmosphere, but preventsrain or snow frompenetrating the fabric

The Pertex Endurance system allows water vapour produced by thebody to escape into the atmosphere. At the same time, it prevents lightrain or snow from penetrating the fabric.

According to the company, Pertex Endurance can withstand water ata pressure equivalent to a hydrostatic head of more than 1,000 mm(1.4 psi).

Pertex Equilibrium has aunique denier gradientstructure which allowsmoisture to be transportedto the outside of the fabricwhere it evaporates

Pertex Equilibrium has a unique denier gradient structure. Yarnscomprising larger filaments are placed on the inside of the fabric whileyarns comprising smaller filaments are placed on the outside of thefabric.

This structure allows moisture to move from the larger filaments to thesmaller filaments by capillary action, and then to the outside of thefabric where it evaporates.



Pertex Equilibrium isalso waterproof

Pertex Equilibrium is also waterproof, and protects against light rainand snow.

Pertex Eco is a series ofenvironmentally friendlyfabrics made from yarnswhich are produced fromrecycled polyester

Pertex Eco is a series of environmentally friendly fabrics made fromyarns which are produced from recycled polyester.

The series is not a technology in its own right but is available acrossthe entire Pertex range of fabrics—including Pertex Endurance andPertex Equilibrium.

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR: DRY.QDry.Q waterproof breath-able technologies fromMountain Hardwear resultin fabrics which are highlyair permeable and soperspiration does not accu-mulate inside the fabric

Dry.Q is a family of waterproof breathable technologies introduced in2010 by USA-based Mountain Hardwear, a wholly-owned subsidiaryof Columbia Sportswear.

Fabric which incorporates Dry.Q technology is said to be highly airpermeable and therefore perspiration does not accumulate inside thefabric.

Humidity is not needed totrigger their breathability

Unlike traditional waterproof breathable fabrics, a fabric incorporatingDry.Q does not require humidity to trigger its breathability.

The fabric is comparedto a bathtub with theplug pulled out whereasa traditional breathablefabric is likened to abathtub with the plug in

The company compares the fabric to a bathtub with the drain plugpulled out. Once water is poured in, it drains out.

A traditional waterproof breathable fabric, by contrast, is likened to abathtub with the drain plug in. When water is poured in, the waterlevel will continue to rise until it reaches the side drain from which itcan escape.

NEXTEC APPLICATIONS: EPICEPIC is a water resistant,windproof, breathablefabric from Nextec

EPIC (Encapsulated Protection Inside Clothing) is a water resistant,windproof and breathable fabric. It was introduced by the USA-basedcompany Nextec Applications in 1998.

Polymers are wrappedaround individual fibrebundles

Through the company’s patented encapsulation process, a viscousmixture of silicone-based polymers is placed on to a fabric. Energy isthen applied to the polymers, and the latter work their way into thefabric. As they do so, they wrap around individual fibre bundles.

All but the smallestspaces between the fibresare filled, to create aweatherproof barrierwhich still allows watervapour to escape

In this way, all but the smallest spaces between the fibres in the weaveare filled, and this creates a barrier which is impervious to rain, snowand wind.

However, the spaces between the encapsulated fibres are large enoughto allow water vapour to escape.

Water resistance in EPICmaterials is created insidethe fabric rather thanoutside and is maintainedafter repeated washings

Water resistance in EPIC materials is created inside the fabric ratherthan outside. Consequently, EPIC’s water resistant properties aremaintained after repeated washings. Many competing fabrics, bycontrast, require films, coatings or DWR treatments to provideprotection against the passage of water from outside.



One of EPIC’s keybenefits is its lowwater absorption—

According to Nextec Applications, one of EPIC’s key benefits is itslow water absorption. This stems from the fact that the polymers takeup space where water may otherwise seep in. As a result, little wateris absorbed into the face of the fabric.

—in contrast to durablewater repellent treatedfabrics

In DWR-treated fabrics, by contrast, the face of the fabric can becomesoaked once the treatment has worn off, thereby adding weight to agarment.

The encapsulation processin EPIC adds durability tothe base fabric

The encapsulation process used in the manufacture of EPIC does notaffect the handle of the base fabric. Moreover, it can add strength tothe fabric and improve its abrasion resistance and tear strength.

EPIC protects against theelements in all but themost severe conditions

EPIC is said to provide protection against the elements in all but themost severe conditions, such as torrential rain.

NIKE: STORM-FITStorm-FIT is awaterproof breathablefabric developed by Nike

Storm-FIT is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by USA-basedNike. The product forms part of Nike’s FIT fabrics range, which aimsto address the different requirements of fabrics needed for differentactivities in all conditions.

The fabric utilises ultrafinemicrofibre polyester and abreathable membrane andis designed for athletesexposed to wet, windy andcold conditions

The fabric utilises ultrafine microfibre polyester and is combined witha breathable membrane. It repels moisture on the outside andtransports sweat to the exterior of the fabric.

The fabric is designed for athletes who are exposed to wet, windy andcold conditions.

PATAGONIA: H2NOH2No from Patagonia is astandard for waterproofbreathable fabrics whichensures a high level ofperformance over thelong term

H2No is a standard for waterproof breathable fabrics developed byPatagonia, a USA-based supplier of rugged outdoor apparel.

The standard is said to ensure a high level of performance over thelong term and, in order to meet the standard, fabrics must undergorigorous testing.

Patagonia uses a wet flextest called Killer Wash

To test the waterproofness of a fabric, Patagonia uses a proprietarywet flex test called Killer Wash which simulates years of use indrenching conditions.

Fabrics must be able towithstand a water pressureof 20,000 mm before and10,000 mm after the test

In order to meet the H2No standard, fabrics must be capable ofwithstanding a water pressure of 20,000 mm before, and 10,000 mmafter, its Killer Wash test if they are to be deemed waterproof.

P2I: ION-MASKion-mask is a waterrepellent treatmentcommercialised by P2i

ion-mask is a water repellent treatment commercialised by P2i—aUK-based company founded in January 2004 as a spin-off from theDefence Science and Technology Laboratory (DSTL), the UK Ministryof Defence’s (MoD’s) principal scientific research agency.



It is applied by meansof an ionised gas or“plasma”

ion-mask is applied by means of an ionised gas or “plasma”. It worksat the molecular level by altering the surface energy of an object inorder to change the way it interacts with liquid.

When applied to an itemof footwear, it allows thefoot to breathe andprevents water fromseeping through the sidesof the item as the watermerely bounces off thesurface

When applied to an item of footwear, ion-mask allows the foot tobreathe and prevents water from seeping through the sides of theitem—the water merely bounces off the surface.

The treatment is applied as a protective layer over the entire surfaceof the item, including the inside as well as the outside. Furthermore,it is applied around and between the fibres from which the item ismade.

ion-mask does notcompromise any existingperformance properties,it is invisible and it doesnot add weight, incontrast to waterproofbreathable membranes

ion-mask does not compromise any of the existing performanceproperties of the item or change the look or feel of the item.

The treatment itself is invisible and does not add weight to the item.

By contrast, waterproof breathable membranes which act as a physicalbarrier against water can add weight and bulk to an object.

POLARTEC: POLARTEC NEOSHELLPolartec NeoShell isclaimed to be “the mostbreathable waterprooffabric”

Polartec NeoShell is claimed to be “the most breathable waterprooffabric available on the market today”.

It was developed by Polartec, a USA-based company best known forits fleece fabrics.

The fabric has stretchproperties and is composedof a hydrophobicmicroporous polyurethanemembrane which issandwiched between anouter fabric and an innerlining

The fabric has stretch properties and is composed of a hydrophobicmicroporous polyurethane membrane which is sandwiched between anouter fabric and an inner lining, as follows.

● The outer fabric is abrasion resistant and is treated with a DWR.

● The membrane has a high level of air permeability and is said to“dramatically accelerate moisture vapour transfer”.

● The inner lining has moisture wicking properties and is softagainst the skin.

The membrane in thePolartec NeoShell fabriconly requires low heatand moisture pressurelevels for moisture vapourtransfer to be activated

According to Polartec, conventional hard shell fabric (see page 28)which has a breathable membrane requires heat and moisture togenerate enough pressure before the membrane begins to facilitatemoisture vapour transfer. The membrane in the Polartec NeoShellfabric, however, only requires extremely low levels of heat andmoisture pressure for airflow to be activated.

As a result, PolartecNeoShell is said to keep thewearer drier than conven-tional hard shell fabrics

As a result, garments made from Polartec NeoShell are said to keepthe wearer drier and more comfortable during activities involving highexertion than garments constructed from conventional hard shellfabrics.


14 See also “Fast track: Biomimicry”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 6, 3rd quarter 2003.


Polartec NeoShell is usedby several major brands

Polartec NeoShell is used by several major performance apparel brands,including Mammut, Marmot, Rab and The North Face.

Figure 3Illustration of Polartec NeoShell

Source: Rab

SCHOELLER TECHNOLOGIES: ECOREPELEcorepel is a biomimicrytextile finish from SchoellerTechnologies which repelswater from the surface of afabric to which it is applied

Ecorepel is a biomimicry14 textile finish which is designed to repelwater from the surface of a fabric to which it is applied.

It was developed by the Switzerland-based company SchoellerTechnologies.

Ecorepel imitates thenatural protectionwhich oily secretionsprovide to the feathersof water fowl

Developers of the finish were inspired by the oily secretions of waterfowl which act as a natural repellent and allow feathers to stay dry aftera bird dives into water. Ecorepel imitates this natural protection, and indoing so it provides textiles treated with the finish with water repellentproperties.

The finish comprises longparaffin chains which wrapthemselves around individualfibres, filaments or yarns toform a very fine film

The finish comprises long paraffin chains which wrap themselvesaround individual fibres, filaments or yarns to form a very fine film.

This reduces surface tension on the textile, allowing water droplets torun off the surface.


15 For a description of non-porous coatings and membranes, see page 33.


These chains arebiodegradable and freefrom fluorocarbons

The paraffin chains which make up the finish are biodegradableand do not contain any fluorocarbons. Also, ecorepel isodourless.

The finish is highly breath-able and highly functional

The finish is highly breathable and highly functional, and allows fabricsto remain soft to the touch.

Also, ecorepel complieswith the requirements ofOeko-Tex Standard 100

In addition, ecorepel has been certified as complying with therequirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which confirms that a productis free from harmful substances. It also complies with the bluesignstandard.

Ecorepel was exhibited atISPO Munich in 2012

Ecorepel was exhibited for the first time at ISPO Munich—a sportswearand equipment trade show—in early 2012.

Figure 4Illustration of fabric treated with ecorepel

Source: Schoeller

SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES: SYMPATEXSympatex is a non-poroushydrophilic polyestermembrane which is 100%waterproof, 100%windproof and highlybreathable

Sympatex is a waterproof breathable membrane produced by SympatexTechnologies, a Germany-based supplier of high-tech functionalmaterials for clothing, footwear and accessories.

The company claims that Sympatex is 100% waterproof, 100%windproof and highly breathable.

It is made from a copolymerof polyester and polyether

The membrane has a non-porous structure15, and is made from acopolymer containing 70% polyester and 30% polyether.

Billions of hydrophilicmolecules expel moisturequickly by means of wicking

The membrane consists of billions of hydrophilic molecules whichexpel moisture quickly from the inside to the outside by means ofwicking. It has a thickness of just 5 microns.



The fabric is “extremelybreathable” according tothe Hohenstein Institute

The water vapour permeability rate of the membrane is less than1.5 RET (resistance to evaporative transfer) and therefore the fabric isclassed as being “very breathable” by the Germany-based HohensteinInstitute (see Table 4 on page 32).

Sympatex offers four maintypes of laminate—

Sympatex Technologies offers four main types of laminate containingthe Sympatex membrane, namely:

—a 2-layer laminate— ● a 2-layer laminate in which the membrane is bonded directly to theback of an outer fabric;

—a 3-layer laminate— ● a 3-layer laminate in which the membrane is sandwiched betweenthe outer fabric and the lining;

—an insert laminate— ● an insert laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to anonwoven or a knitted fabric which hangs loosely between theouter fabric and the lining; and

—and a lining laminate ● a lining laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to the back ofthe lining.

The company offersthree types of laminatetechnology

The company offers three types of laminate technology which provideenhanced waterproof and breathable properties, namely:

● Sympatex, which is incorporated into garments for use in allweather conditions;

● Sympatex Performance, which is incorporated into garmentsintended for use in snow, active sports and high performancesports; and

● Sympatex Professional, which is incorporated into work and safetygarments that are designed to provide protection in harshconditions.

Sympatex and SympatexPerformance laminates are100% waterproof and100% windproof, and theseams of garments madefrom them are also 100%waterproof

Sympatex and Sympatex Performance laminates are claimed to be100% waterproof and 100% windproof. They are said to offeroptimum breathability, and to allow body moisture to be quicklytransported away from the skin.

Furthermore, the seams of garments incorporating either of the twolaminates are sealed so that they are 100% waterproof.

Sympatex Professionallaminates are durable,breathable, waterproofand windproof—

Sympatex Professional laminates offer durability, breathability,waterproofness and windproofness. Furthermore, the technology canbe used to create a microclimate in order to achieve better temperatureregulation while maintaining performance.



—and can providetemperature regulation inextreme conditions

According to tests carried out in Sympatex’s laboratories andindependent tests carried out by the Hohenstein Institute, SympatexProfessional laminates can withstand a hydrostatic head (see page 29)of up to 25,000 mm (35.6 psi). In addition, it can provide temperatureregulation in extreme conditions.

The company offers severalvariations of its originalSympatex membrane

The company offers several variations of its original Sympatexmembrane, including:

● Sympatex Reflexion;● Sympatex HigH2Out; and● Sympatex Phaseable.

Sympatex Reflexion iscoated with an ultra-thinlayer of aluminium toreflect body heat andprotect againstelectromagnetic radiation

Laminates incorporating Sympatex Reflexion achieve high levels ofheat reflection as the membrane is coated with an ultra-thin layer ofaluminium.

As a result, according to Sympatex, such materials are able to reflectup to 75% of body heat and protect against 97% of all electromagneticradiation.

Sympatex HigH2Outabsorbs perspirationquickly and disperses itto a wide area so it istransported beforecondensing on the skin

The Sympatex HigH2Out membrane system combines a hydrophilicmembrane with an extremely absorbent layer.

The absorbent layer is capable of absorbing perspiration withinseconds and dispersing it over a wide area. As a result, moisture istransported to the outside more quickly and more effectively before itis able to condense on the skin.

It increases breathabilityby 120% compared withstandard laminates

According to the company, Sympatex HigH2Out laminatesincrease breathability by 120% compared with standardlaminates.

Sympatex Phaseable2.5-layer laminate offerslightness and stability,and consists of an outerfabric, a membrane withsmall heat-regulatingfoam dots which containair to provide aninsulating layer and athin polyurethane coating

Sympatex Phaseable is a 2.5-layer laminate. It combines the lightnessof a 2-layer laminate with the stability of a 3-layer laminate. Thesystem consists of:

● an outer fabric;● a Sympatex membrane to which small, heat-regulating foam dots

have been attached; and● a thin polyurethane coating.

During low activity levels, air between the foam dots serves as aninsulation layer.

Perspiration causes thefabric to expand, whichreduces the insulation layerand increases breathability

When the wearer is active and the body produces perspiration, thefabric becomes wet and expands.

Such expansion reduces the insulation layer of air and, at the sametime, it increases breathability.



A new version of 2.5-layerPhaseable has beenintroduced comprising anouter material, ahydrophilic membrane anda structure of foam dots

In July 2013 Sympatex introduced a new version of its Phaseablelightweight laminate fabric. The fabric has 2.5-layers, comprising:

● outer material;● a hydrophilic membrane; and● a structure of foam dots which are in contact with the wearer’s

skin at discrete points.

During inactivity, the dotscreate an insulating layer ofair between the skin and thelaminate but the membraneswells when perspirationbuilds up and the dotsdisappear so that thelaminate is able to removemore moisture

When the wearer of a garment made from Phaseable is inactive, thesedots help create an insulating layer of air between the skin and thelaminate.

When the wearer exercises, perspiration builds up and causes themembrane to swell and the dots to disappear.

As a result, the laminate comes into greater contact with the skin andis therefore able to remove more moisture.

SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES AND RUDOLF GROUP:BIONIC-FINISH ECO

Bionic-Finish Eco,developed by SympatexTechnologies and RudolfGroup, is a fluorine-free,environmentally friendlyDWR treatment forfabrics

Sympatex Technologies and Rudolf Group, a Germany-based specialistin textile finishes, were among the first companies to develop afluorine-free DWR treatment for fabrics.

The treatment, called Bionic-Finish Eco, is said to be environmentallyfriendly and can therefore be applied to fabrics which are used in themanufacture of sustainable functional clothing or garments.

Garments treated with itrepel water and dirt

Garments treated with Bionic-Finish Eco repel water and dirt, and thetreatment is highly durable and resistant to wear.

It does not contain paraffinwax and so the garmentsremain breathable

Also, the garments retain their breathability because the treatment doesnot contain paraffin wax—an impermeable substance which is used tomake fabrics waterproof.

The garments do notneed to be ironed afterlaundering to maintainthe effectiveness of thetreatment, unlikeconventional waterprooffinishes and DWRfinishes

In addition, the garments do not need to be ironed after laundering inorder to maintain the effectiveness of the treatment at a high level.

Conventional waterproof finishes, by contrast, need to be reappliedand fixed and activated with heat—either by ironing or tumble drying.Similarly, in the case of DWR finishes, a garment treated with thefinish needs to be washed and the finish heat-activated either bytumble drying or ironing.

Bionic-Finish Eco iscomposed of star-shapedhyper-branched polymerswhose development wasinfluenced by the structureof branches at the tops oftrees

Bionic-Finish Eco is composed of star-shaped hyper-branchedpolymers whose development was influenced by the structure of thebranches at the tops of trees.

Researchers from the two companies noted that this structure providesthe trees with a larger surface area for their foliage to grow on. Thestructure also provides for greater density of the foliage within thetreetop.



The star-shapedhyper-branched polymersimprove the waterrepellency of Bionic-FinishEco significantly

The researchers adopted this idea and adapted the polymers fromwhich Bionic-Finish Eco is made so that they have a similar structure.

They claim that the star-shaped hyper-branched polymers improve thewater repellency of Bionic-Finish Eco significantly.

TANATEX CHEMICALS: HYDRECO CONCEPTHydrECO Concept waterrepellent finishes fromTanatex are free fromfluorine

HydrECO Concept is the name of a range of water repellent finisheswhich are free from fluorine, and were developed by the Netherlands-based company Tanatex Chemicals—one of the world’s leadingproducers of textile processing chemicals.

They include finishes forfabrics made fromsynthetic and cotton fibres

The range includes a finish for fabrics made from synthetic fibres, anda finish for fabrics made from cotton fibres or blends of cotton andsynthetic fibres.

The finishes are said toprovide a high degree ofwater repellency

Both finishes are said to provide fabrics with a high degree of waterrepellency as well as a pleasant handle.

THE NORTH FACE: HYVENTHyVent waterproofbreathable fabrics fromThe North Face have athin polyurethane coatingacross the back of theface fabric

HyVent is a family of waterproof breathable fabrics developed byThe North Face, a USA-based company which supplies outdoorclothing and equipment.

The fabrics in the range incorporate a polyurethane coating which isapplied as a thin, even layer across the back of the face fabric (seepage 35).

The HyVent familycomprises five differentfabrics

The HyVent family of fabrics comprises:

● HyVent Alpha;● HyVent 2L;● HyVent 3L;● HyVent DT; and● HyVent DT EC.

HyVent Alpha provides ahigh level of waterproofnessand is therefore suitable forgarments worn in extremeweather conditions

HyVent Alpha is premium fabric which is comparable with Gore-Tex.

It provides a high level of waterproofness as it can withstand a waterpressure of 75 psi and is therefore designed for garments worn inextreme weather conditions.

HyVent 2L comprises anabrasion resistant layer anda polyurethane coated layer,while HyVent 3L also hasan inner layer whichchannels perspiration tothe polyurethane coating

HyVent 2L is a 2-layer fabric comprising an abrasion resistant outerlayer and a polyurethane coated inner layer.

HyVent 3L is a 3-layer fabric made from an abrasion resistant outerlayer, a polyurethane coated middle layer and an inner layer whichchannels perspiration moisture to the micropores of the polyurethanecoating.



HyVent DT is a waterproofbreathable 2.5-layer fabricwith a raised scrim which islighter in weight than a lineror laminated inner layer andholds the waterproof barrieraway from the skin forgreater air circulation

HyVent DT is a waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric.

DT stands for Dry Touch and refers to a raised scrim which is lighterin weight than a liner or laminated inner layer.

The scrim physically holds the fabric’s waterproof barrier awayfrom the skin, thereby increasing air circulation and enhancingcomfort.

HyVent DT EC is anenvironmentally friendlyversion of HyVent DTas it contains castor oilderived from beans

HyVent DT EC is a more environmentally friendly version of HyVentDT as it contains castor oil derived from beans.

As a result, it uses a smaller amount of materials derived frompetroleum.

TORAY INDUSTRIES: ENTRANTEntrant fabric from TorayIndustries has a waterproofbreathable microporouscoating with pores in ahoneycomb-like structure

Entrant fabric, from the Japanese company Toray Industries, utilisesa waterproof breathable microporous coating which contains poresmeasuring 2-3 microns in diameter.

The pores form a honeycomb-like structure.

Vapour can pass throughbut rain and water dropletsare too big to penetrate

Because of the honeycomb structure and the size of the pores, rain andwater droplets are too large to penetrate the coating. However, vapouris able to pass through effectively.

The exterior of Entrant iscoated with a DWR finish

As well as having a waterproof breathable microporous coating, theexterior of Entrant fabric is coated with a DWR finish.

Toray has developedvariants of Entrant

Toray Industries has developed variants of Entrant which are tailor-made for specific applications.

Toray is one of the world’sleaders in waterproofbreathable technology

Toray Industries is one of the world’s leaders in waterproof breathabletechnology. The company made its first attempt to produce fabricswhich were both waterproof and permeable to moisture in 1979.

Its products providedifferent levels ofwaterproofness andbreathability

Today, the company produces a wide range of products in thewaterproof breathable category. Each product provides a different levelof waterproofness and breathability.

W L GORE & ASSOCIATES: GORE-TEXThe Gore-Tex brand,whose trademarkedpromise is “Guaranteedto Keep You Dry”, hasbecome synonymous withwaterproof protection

The Gore-Tex brand, whose trademarked promise is “Guaranteed toKeep You Dry”, represents an industry benchmark.

The brand name Gore-Tex has become synonymous with waterproofprotection to the point where it is used by some as a generic term—inthe same way that Lycra has become a generic term for stretch fabricsfor performance apparel.


16 Gore-Seam tape technology uses seam tape to seal tiny holes created by sewing machine needles whenGore-Tex fabric is made into garments. W L Gore & Associates claims that this method ensures that allseams are 100% waterproof.


Gore-Tex fabrics areformed by laminatinga Gore-Tex membraneto a textile

Gore-Tex fabrics are formed by laminating a Gore-Tex membrane toa textile. The membrane is made from an expandedpolytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) microporous polymeric film whichhas around 1.4 bn pores per cm2. Each pore is one 20,000th of the sizeof a water droplet, but is 700 times as large as a molecule of watervapour. As a result, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane,but moisture vapour can easily escape.

The membrane repels oilysubstances which mightblock pores andcompromise breathability

The ePTFE membrane also contains an oleophobic substance whichprevents contamination of the structure from oily substances. Withoutthe oleophobic additive, such substances could block the pores of themembrane and compromise breathability.

The membrane technologyused in Gore-Tex fabric isdifferent from technologiesused in competing fabrics

The membrane technology used in Gore-Tex fabric is different fromtechnologies used in competing fabrics. The latter are typically basedon polyurethane which can degrade when exposed to cold weather,flexing and chemicals.

Gore-Tex withstands a rangeof potentially harmfulsubstances and UV radiation

In addition to withstanding such degradation, Gore-Tex is not damagedby salt water, bleach, detergents, chemicals used in dry cleaning orexposure to UV radiation.

W L Gore & Associateshas launched a newgeneration of fabrics

W L Gore & Associates has been trying to maintain its stronghold inthe waterproof breathable category of outdoor wear by launching anew generation of fabrics. These include:

● Gore-Tex Performance Shell;● Gore-Tex Paclite Shell;● Gore-Tex Soft Shell;● Gore-Tex Pro Shell;● Gore-Tex Pro; and● Gore-Tex Active Shell.

Gore-Tex PerformanceShell is made in 2-layerand 3-layer versions,and Gore-Seam tapetechnology is used to makeall seams waterproof

Gore-Tex Performance Shell is made in 2-layer and 3-layer versions.Both versions have face textiles which are soft and offer highperformance. The 3-layer version also has a special lining.

In addition, a special Gore-Seam tape technology16 is used to ensurethat all seams are 100% waterproof.

Gore-Tex Paclite Shell,which was the world’s firstwaterproof breathable2.5-layer fabric, islightweight and compact

Gore-Tex Paclite Shell, as its name suggests, is lightweight andcompact, and can be easily packed away into a small bag.

It was introduced in the mid-1990s as the world’s first waterproofbreathable 2.5-layer fabric.


17 W L Gore & Associates defines durable waterproofness as the ability of a fabric to keep water out overprolonged periods in harsh conditions and demanding applications.


The outer face is madefrom polyester or nylon

The outer face of the fabric is made from high performance polyesteror nylon.

The membrane is coveredby a protective layer

The membrane is covered by a protective layer made from anoleophobic substance and carbon.

Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a3-layer fabric with a liningmade from a soft fleece-like material

Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a 3-layer fabric, constructed with an outerface, a membrane and a lining. The outer face is made from a softhigh performance fabric while the lining is made from a softfleece-like material. The fabric is durably waterproof17, windproof andbreathable.

Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabricis abrasion resistant,waterproof and breathable,and is available in 2-layeror 3-layer form

Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric is tear resistant and abrasion resistant, andgarments made from the fabric are said to be tough as well aswaterproof and breathable.

The fabric is available in either 2-layer form or 3-layer form.

The 2-layer construction hasa Gore-Tex membranewhose inner face is protectedby a separate lining

The 2-layer construction has a Gore-Tex membrane laminated to theinside of the outer material.

The inner face of the membrane is protected by a separate lining.

There is also a 2-layerinsulated construction witha heat insulation layer

There is also a 2-layer insulated construction in which a heatinsulation layer is suspended freely between the 2-layer laminate andthe separate inside lining.

In the 3-layer version, aninner lining is bonded tothe Gore-Tex membrane

In the case of the 3-layer construction, a Gore-Tex membrane isbonded to a tough outer material as well as to a specially developedrobust inner lining.

Gore-Seam tape is used toensure that all seams are100% waterproof

Again, Gore-Seam tape technology is used in garments made fromGore-Tex Pro Shell fabric to ensure that all seams are 100%waterproof.

Gore-Tex Pro fabric isproduced using amultilayer ePTFEmembrane with more than1.4 bn pores per cm2

which does not allowwater droplets to penetratebut allows moisturevapour to escape easily

Gore-Tex Pro is described as “a technological leap forward in rugged,breathable, waterproof protection”. The fabric, which took more thanfour years to develop, is produced using a multilayer membrane madefrom 100% ePTFE.

The membrane contains more than 1.4 bn microscopic pores per cm2

of fabric which are approximately 20,000 times smaller than a drop ofwater but 700 times bigger than a molecule of moisture vapour. As aresult, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane but moisture canescape easily.



Also, the ePTFE structureis oleophobic

Also, the ePTFE structure is oleophobic and creates a physical barrieragainst contaminating substances such as oils, cosmetics and foodsubstances.

Gore-Tex Pro is said to be10-28% more breathablethan Gore-Tex Pro Shellfabric

Gore-Tex Pro is an improved version of the company’s Gore-TexPro Shell fabric. It is said to be 10-28% more breathable thanprevious versions of Gore-Tex Pro Shell and to be more comfortable asa result.

W L Gore & Associatesrecommends that theyarns used to weave theouter fabric should havedeniers ranging between40 and 200

It has a lightweight outer fabric which provides a greater level ofbreathability than a densely woven outer fabric. The level ofbreathability achieved depends on the denier of the yarns used toweave the outer fabric to which the multilayer membrane is laminated.W L Gore & Associates recommends that the yarns used to weave theouter fabric should have deniers ranging between 40 and 200.

Gore-Tex Pro is also highlydurable as the inner side ofthe membrane is coveredwith Gore Micro GridBacker fabric which isresistant to tearing andripping

Gore-Tex Pro is also highly durable. The inner side of the membrane iscovered with Gore Micro Grid Backer fabric which is resistant totearing and ripping. The fabric is woven using special reinforcingtechniques, whereby the yarns are interwoven at regular intervals in across-hatch pattern.

Figure 5Gore-Tex Pro

Source: W L Gore & Associates

Gore-Tex Active Shellcomprises a lining, a highperformance textile and athin, lightweight membrane

Gore-Tex Active Shell fabric has three layers: a lining, a highperformance textile and a membrane. The company claims that themembrane is lighter and thinner than membranes used in earlierGore-Tex shell fabrics.

It is made using a newlamination technologywhich provides it with ahigh level of breathability

The laminate is manufactured using a new lamination technologywhich provides it with a high level of breathability. In addition, it hasmoisture management properties, and is durable, waterproof andwindproof.

Garments made from thefabric have good moisturewicking properties

Garments made from the fabric are said to be able to wick moistureaway from the skin quickly, thus helping the wearer to stay dry andcomfortable during exercise.



OUTLOOK

Significant innovations haveenhanced the wear comfortof waterproof breathable fab-rics for outdoor enthusiastsalthough the latter continueto express dissatisfaction

Significant innovations in waterproof breathable fabrics have playeda key role in enhancing the wear comfort of outdoor enthusiasts.

Nonetheless, many of these enthusiasts continue to expressdissatisfaction with the performance of these fabrics—especially withregard to breathability.

New fabrics such as PolartecNeoShell and Dry.Q claimto fulfil demands forgreater breathability

Suppliers of outdoor wear have been quick to address this issue—totheir credit—and new fabrics such as Polartec’s Polartec NeoShell andMountain Hardwear’s Dry.Q claim to fulfil demands for greaterbreathability.

These fabrics may able toloosen the grip that Gore-Tex has on the market

These “ultra-breathable” fabrics also have the potential to loosen theiron grip that Gore-Tex has had on the high performance outdoorapparel market.

The pace of innovation is setto increase as manufacturersaim to boost the breath-ability of their products

The pace of innovation in this market is set to increase as fabricmanufacturers scramble to boost the breathability ratings of theirproducts without compromising on existing functional characteristicssuch as waterproofness and durability.

Innovation will also bedriven by growing demandfor environmentallyfriendly products offeringhigh levels of performanceand durability

Innovation will also be driven by growing demand for fluorine-freealternatives to conventional waterproof breathable technologies.

A key challenge will be to develop environmentally friendly productswhich offer a high level of performance and durability.

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Profile of Jack Wolfskin

1 The name Jack Wolfskin was inspired partly by The Call of the Wild, a novel by Jack London published in1903, and partly by the howling of wolves which the company’s employees imagined could be heard in thedistance from campfires in the Canadian wilderness.


Profile of Jack Wolfskin: apremium outdoor apparel brand

SUMMARY

Jack Wolfskin, established in 1981, is a leading Germany-based supplier of functional outdoorclothing, footwear and equipment. Over the years, the company has built up a vast distributionnetwork and today its products are sold in more than 800 franchise stores and in over 4,000 otherpoints of sale across Europe and Asia.

The Jack Wolfskin brand has enjoyed growing popularity among outdoor enthusiasts and, as a result,the company’s sales have grown at highly creditable rates over the past ten years. Not surprisingly,the company has attracted the attention of several private equity firms, and in 2011 it was purchasedby Blackstone Group—one of the largest of these firms—as the latter saw the company’s potential forfuture growth. The key to this growth lies in international expansion. This is already well under way,as is evidenced by the company’s penetration into the South American market and franchisenegotiations in more established markets in Europe and Asia.

It is noteworthy that the company is aiming to achieve its expansion goals while simultaneouslyfollowing a rigorous corporate social responsibility (CSR) agenda—which involves the elimination andreplacement of chemicals routinely used by makers of outdoor apparel, including fluorocarbons forwaterproof breathable garments. In meeting this agenda, the company will no doubt have to overhaulits current supply chain as it develops alternative production methods which are more environmentallyfriendly—and this is likely to result in higher costs. Nonetheless, the company is cautiously optimisticabout its financial prospects, not least because it enjoys a solid position in a market which has goodpotential for growth.

INTRODUCTION

Jack Wolfskin is one ofEurope’s leading suppliersof functional outdoorclothing, footwear andequipment, and is thelargest franchiser in thespecialist sports retailmarket in Germany

Jack Wolfskin1, based in Idstein, Germany—some 50 km north-westof Frankfurt—employs around 700 workers, and is one of Europe’sleading suppliers of functional outdoor clothing, footwear andequipment.

It is also the largest franchiser in the specialist sports retail market inGermany.

The company’s overriding goal is to encourage as many people aspossible to lead an active life outdoors.


2 Barclays Private Equity was renamed Equistone Partners Europe following a management buy-out inNovember 2011.3 A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually adepartment store.


Jack Wolfskin opened itsfirst store in Germanyin 1993 and quicklybecame a favouriteoutdoor brand

Jack Wolfskin opened its first store in Heidelberg in Germany in1993. Thereafter, it quickly became a favourite outdoor brand inGermany as its high quality products, iconic paw print logo andmotto—“At Home Outdoors”—struck a chord with alpine climbers,hikers, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts.

The Jack Wolfskin brandis associated withproducts which arefunctional, durable andinnovatively designed

The Jack Wolfskin brand is associated with products which arefunctional, durable and innovatively designed. These attributes haveenabled the company to command premium prices and attract a loyalcustomer base. They have also helped it to compete successfullyagainst its two main rivals, The North Face and Columbia Sportswear.

COMPANY DEVELOPMENT

Jack Wolfskin wasestablished in 1981

Jack Wolfskin is a relatively young company, having been establishedin 1981.

In 1991 the companywas sold to JohnsonOutdoors

In 1991, just ten years after its establishment, the company was soldto Johnson Outdoors—a leading provider of outdoor recreationproducts based in the USA.

In 2002 it was sold toBain Capital forEuro42 mn and in 2005it was sold to two investorsfor Euro 93 mn

In 2002 Johnson Outdoors sold Jack Wolfskin to Bain Capital, aUSA-based private equity firm, for Euro42 mn (US$40 mn).

Ownership of Jack Wolfskin changed hands once again in 2005 whenBain Capital sold the company to two investors—namely QuadrigaCapital and Barclays Private Equity2—for Euro93 mn.

In 2011 these two investorssold it to BlackstoneGroup in a deal thought tobe worth Euro700 mn

In 2011 these two investors sold Jack Wolfskin to USA-basedBlackstone Group, one of the world’s largest private equity firms, ina deal which industry analysts believe was worth Euro700 mn—morethan 16 times the amount paid by Bain Capital ten years previously.

Under this ownership, itsfocus is on internationalexpansion

Under the ownership of Blackstone Group, Jack Wolfskinhas sharpened its focus on expanding its internationalpresence.

In 2013 it entered into anagreement with Heightsportto open stores and con-cessions in five countriesin South America

Indeed, in July 2013 Jack Wolfskin entered into a partnershipagreement with Heightsport—a South American retailer of sportswearand outdoor apparel—to open Jack Wolfskin stores and concessions3

in Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.


4 See also Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, on page 93 of this issue.5 Jack Wolfskin defines active trail as a highly active outdoor pursuit which requires little or no baggage.Examples include running up coastal hills.6 Products complying with the requirements laid out in Oeko-Tex Standard 100 are certified as being freefrom substances which are harmful to humans and the environment.


The first store was openedin Pucón, Chile, and JackWolfskin products are alsosold in 17 Heightsportretail outlets in Ecuador

The first Jack Wolfskin store was opened in Pucón, Chile4—one ofSouth America’s most popular destinations for outdoorenthusiasts—on July 13, 2013.

Jack Wolfskin’s products are also sold by Heightsport in 17 of itsretail outlets in Ecuador.

PRODUCTS AND APPLICATIONS

Jack Wolfskin specialisesin the supply of functionaloutdoor apparel for use ina number of applications

Jack Wolfskin specialises in the supply of functional outdoorapparel, accessories and equipment for use in the followingapplications:

● alpine climbing;● trekking;● hiking; and● active trail5.

It offers apparel for men,women and children, andits products are functional,user friendly andinnovative—

The company has a comprehensive range of apparel for men, womenand children.

Its apparel products are said to feature a high degree of functionality,user friendliness and innovation.

—and comply withOeko-Tex Standard 100

The products also comply with the requirements laid out in Oeko-TexStandard 1006, and in many instances exceed them.

Table 1: Jack Wolfskin: product range, 2013

Men’s wear Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, underwearWomen’s wear Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, skirts, underwearChildren’s wear Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, sweaters, underwearAccessories Belts, boots, gaiters, gloves, headwear, pant suspenders,

scarves, shoes, socksEquipment Camera bags, laptop bags, mats, rucksacks, sleeping bags,

tents, travel bagsTravel accessories Bottles, cups, hip bags, mobile phone pouches, neck pouches,

rain covers, towels, wallets, wash bagsCare products Cleaning and impregnation agents, down detergent, weather

protection cream for shoes

Source: Jack Wolfskin.

Most garments are madefrom polyester, polyamideand blends thereof—

Most garments are made from polyester, polyamide and blendsthereof, and many boast features which enhance performance andcomfort.



—and many boastfeatures which enhanceperformance and comfort

Such features include:

● close-fitting cuffs;● fabric reinforcements in areas prone to abrasion, such as elbows

and knees;● fleece lined collars;● ventilation zips which improve air circulation; and● water repellent zips.

Garments for childrenhave additional featureswhich reduce the risk ofaccidents

Garments for children have additional features which reduce the riskof accidents. All garments incorporate high visibility materials. Also,objects such as drawstrings and fastenings for buttons and zip tabshave been designed in such a way as to reduce the risk of themcatching on objects or being swallowed.

Table 2: Jack Wolfskin: high performance outdoor garments

Product Description Composition FeaturesActivate Pants Women Softshell pants Polyamide, elastane Adjustable hem; articulated knees

Arco Hoody Women Fleece top Polyester Close-fitting hood; high collar

Anchorage Parka Men Waterproof down parka Polyester, down,polypropylene

Ventilation zip across the chest;removable hood; fleece cuffs; powderskirt

Avalanche Jacket Men Windproof and snowproofskiing jacket

Polyester, polyamide,elastane

Detachable hood; underarm ventilationzips; close-fitting cuffs withthumbhole; powder skirt

Mandu Peak Men A double jacket comprising ashell jacket and an innerjacket which can be zippedtogether

Polyester, polyamide,elastane

Underarm ventilation zips; integralhood; high collar

Merino 3/4 Tights Men Long johns Merino wool Insulating and antimicrobial properties

Supercharge Jacket Men Waterproof softshell jacket Polyester, polyamide Underarm ventilation zips; roll-uphood; powder skirt


Jack Wolfskin’s productsare popular among hikersand mountaineers, and itsapparel products havegained strong appeal amongconsumers of casual wear

Jack Wolfskin’s products are said to enjoy strong popularity amonghikers and mountaineers.

Moreover, its apparel products have gained strong appeal amongconsumers of casual wear, not least because of their functionality,fashionable styling and vivid range of colours.

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

Jack Wolfskin recognisesthat innovative technologiesare important indifferentiating productsand attracting consumerdemand, and so thecompany invests heavily inresearch and development

Like many companies operating at the high end of the performanceapparel market, Jack Wolfskin recognises that innovative technologiesare becoming increasingly important as a means of differentiatingproducts and attracting consumer demand.

The company therefore invests heavily in research and developmentwith a view to making its products even more versatile and userfriendly.



Figure 1 Figure 2Jack Wolfskin men’s jacket Jack Wolfskin women’s pants

Source: Jack Wolfskin Source: Jack Wolfskin

Figure 3 Figure 4Jack Wolfskin children’s long sleeve top Jack Wolfskin men’s trekking shoe


Figure 5 Figure 6Jack Wolfskin women’s rucksack Jack Wolfskin sleeping bag




It has introduced severalproduct innovations andholds several patents

In recent years, it has introduced a number of product innovations andholds several patents for technologies used in its garments, rucksacksand tents.

The product innovationsfor which Jack Wolfskinis perhaps best knownare Texapore, Fibercloudand Nanuk

The product innovations for which Jack Wolfskin is perhaps bestknown are:

● Texapore;● Fibercloud; and● Nanuk.

TEXAPORETexapore is a waterproofbreathable fabric

Texapore is a waterproof breathable fabric which is manufacturedusing membranes and coatings made from polyurethane to achieve itswaterproof breathable properties.

It is available in over 40different types

The fabric is available in over 40 different types, and each has aspecific level of waterproofness and breathability.

The company hasdeveloped ten levelsof waterproofbreathability

The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability, asfollows.

● Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is securelybonded to a shell fabric.

● Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes.

● The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology whichinvolves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes.

Table 3: Jack Wolfskin: waterproofness and breathability ratings of Texaporefabrics

Waterproof rating Breathability rating(mm H2O)a (g/m2/24 hours)b

Texapore 10,000 9,000Texapore Air O2+ 5,000 >15,000Texapore Air O3+ 5,000 30,000Texapore O2 20,000 15,000-20,000Texapore O3 Smoothlight Softshell 20,000 25,000-30,000Texapore O4 20,000 35,000-40,000Texapore Hyproof O3 40,000 30,000a Hydrostatic head (see page 29). b Moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTR—seepage 31).Source: Jack Wolfskin.

The level of waterproofbreathability required fora garment depends on theoutdoor activity for whichthe garment is intended

The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment madefrom Texapore fabric is determined by the particular outdoor activityfor which the garment is intended. For example, jackets for alpinehiking use a triple-layered fabric construction which has very highlevels of waterproofness and breathability.


7 Fill power is a measure of the “fluffiness” of a down product. The higher the fill power of the down, themore insulating air pockets the down has and the better its insulating ability. Fill power is measured in unitsof cuin (cubic inches). Fibercloud has a cuin of 500, which means that 1 oz (28 g) of the material occupies avolume of 500 cubic inches (0.008 m3) under a particular pressure.8 A baffle is a chamber between two pieces of fabric which holds insulating material. Baffles are designed toprevent the insulating material from moving around inside a garment or a sleeping bag.


Texapore fabric is offeredin three main versions,each of which is designedfor a specific activity level

Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which isdesigned for a specific activity level, namely:

● stretch;● extra lightweight; and● extra robust.

FIBERCLOUDFibercloud is a fibrefillmaterial which providesalmost as much warmthas down, but also has thefavourable attributes ofsynthetic fibres

Fibercloud is a fibrefill material which combines the benefits ofnatural insulating materials, notably down, with those of theirsynthetic counterparts.

The material provides almost as much warmth as down as it has asimilar loft or “fill power”7. However, it also has the favourableattributes of synthetic fibres, such as easy care and quick dryingproperties.

It is made from a mix ofmicrofibres and hollow fibreswhich are balled together ina cloud-like structure

Fibercloud is made from a mix of microfibres and hollow fibres ofdifferent lengths, shapes and deniers. These fibres are balled togetherin a cloud-like structure and are packed loosely into baffles8 wherethey can achieve their full lofting capability.

The insulation propertiesof Fibercloud are said tobe unaffected by dampness

According to Jack Wolfskin, the insulation properties of Fibercloudare unaffected by dampness—unlike the insulation properties ofconventional down.

NANUKNanuk is a lightweight andyet hard-wearing fleecewhich has a pile on bothsurfaces so perspiration iswicked away while bodyheat is retained

Nanuk is a lightweight and yet hard-wearing fleece which is said toprovide an optimal balance of insulation and breathability.

The fabric has a pile on both surfaces which helps to wickperspiration away from the skin but also helps to retain bodyheat.

The fabric is availablein three versions whichprovide differentamounts of insulation

The fabric is available in three versions, namely:

● Nanuk 100, which is the lightest in weight and provides the leastamount of insulation;

● Nanuk 200, which is medium weight and provides a moderateamount of insulation; and

● Nanuk 300, which is the heaviest in weight and provides thegreatest amount of insulation.



PRODUCT SOURCING

Jack Wolfskin outsourcesthe manufacture of itsproducts to a total of 78facilities in 14 countries

Jack Wolfskin outsources the manufacture of its outdoor apparel,accessories and equipment to a total of 78 facilities in 14 countries.More than half of the company’s suppliers are based in China andVietnam.

It has a systematicapproach to monitoringits supplier factories

The company has put in place a highly organised and systematicapproach to monitoring its supplier factories, and carries out audits ofits production sites frequently.

In September 2013 thecompany made a boldmove by publishing a listof its manufacturers

In September 2013 the company made a bold move by publishing alist of its manufacturers (Table 4) and making this list available onlinevia its website. In doing so, it made its production and supply chainmore transparent.

DISTRIBUTION, SALES AND MARKETING

DISTRIBUTIONJack Wolfskin supplies itsproducts from a distributioncentre in Neu Wulmstorf,Germany, which is close tothe Port of Hamburg

Jack Wolfskin supplies its products from a distribution centre inNeu Wulmstorf, Germany. The centre went into operation in 2010 andhas modern facilities.

Furthermore, it is close to the Port of Hamburg, a location which isconsidered ideal as the large bulk of the company’s products areshipped from factories in Asia.

The centre has room forexpansion to accommodatesales growth in the future

The centre occupies a space of over 40,000 m2, and can be expandedby 10,000 m2 in order to accommodate sales growth in the yearsahead.

Jack Wolfskin boasts anability to supply stocksof merchandise at veryshort notice

Jack Wolfskin boasts an ability to supply stocks of merchandise atvery short notice. Indeed, up to 30% of a store’s orders can befulfilled in one day and the remainder of the order can be fulfilledusually by the next day.

Products from thecentre are distributedthrough threedistribution channels

Products from the centre are distributed through three distributionchannels, namely:

● stores;● catalogues; and● online retailing.



Table 4: Jack Wolfskin: suppliers, 2013

Name Location Name LocationBangladesh ItalyYoungone (CEPZ) Chittagong Insocks Pieve D’AlpagoYoungone Hi-Tech Sportswear Industries Dhaka Interknit Pieve D’AlpagoBulgaria Intermed die Verardo Andrea & CS GhediTFT Trend Fashion Textil Krichim Intersocks Pieve D’AlpagoTrend Fashion Textile Rakovski Rakovski New Koko’s Pieve D’AlpagoCambodia RomaniaMing Da Footwear Khet SC Galway Sport AiudQMI Industrial Phnom Penh SloveniaChina Interconf KocevjeAnhui Jiahai Clothes & Ornament Fuyang Intersocks KocevjeBeijing Century Beauty Beijing Recinko KocevjeBeijing Oceano Apparel Hebei South KoreaBeijing Wanxing Clothing Beijing Naschem IncheonFujian Putian Unionwin Import and Export Fujian TaiwanFujian Quanzhou Blue Fish Shoes Quanzhou Foam Tex Tachung CountyHongfeng Shoes & Garments Chendai ThailandJFC Apparel Heshan City Hong Lin Manufacturing BangkokJiangsu Asian Sourcing Headwear Huai An City Hong Lin Manufacturing BuriramJinjiang Longshine Shoes Jinjiang City Lee-Lin Apparel BangkokLeCrown Shoes Industry Fujian VT Garment BangkokMing Rui Footwear Industrial Fujian Yuan Jiou Garment MaesodNingbo Gas & Fogagent Ningbo City TurkeyNingbo Xin Cheng Shoes Zhejiang Pantera Iç ve Dıs Tic IstanbulPutian Xiang Guan Footwear Fujian VietnamShanghai Challenge Garment Shanghai ASG Vina Binh DuongShanghai Solid Stainless Steel Shanghai Astro Saigon Ho Chi Minh CityShanghai Yangfan Sleeping Bag Shanghai Bac Giang Garment Bac GiangShanghai Yike Tent Manufacture Shanghai Cong Ty Tnhh Cn-Tm Minh Nghe Ho Chi Minh CityShuang Yang Footwear Fujian Dong Tien Joint Stock Company Dong NaiShunde Top Standing Products Guangdong Elegant Team Manufacture Que VoTseng; Hsuan Ling Sleeping Bag Enterprise Guangdong Han Viet Ho Chi Minh CityTseng; Jiujiang Zhanda Clothing Jiangxi Ho Guom Garment Joint Stock Ban Yen NhanYangzhou Huamao Craftwork Zhejiang CompanyYoungtech (Dong Guan) Guangdong Kaiyang Vietnam HaiphongYudu County Jiangkai Sports Products Jiangxi Kido Hanoi Hung YenIndia May Hai Joint Stock Company Hai PhongEuro Clothing Company Bangalore MK IMEX Ho Chi Minh CityGokaldas Exports Chennai Moland Dong NaiGokaldas India Bangalore Northern Textiles and Garment HanoiThe Cotton and Textile Corporation Tirupur Joint Stock CompanyUsha Garments Mfg Gujarat Prex Vinh Do LuongIndonesia Shints BVT Thach Khoi CommunePT Ameya Livingstyle Yogyakarta Viet Thang Garment Joint Stock Ho Chi Minh CityPT Citra Abadi Sejati Bogor CompanyPT Jaba Garmindo Tangerang Viva Saigon Ho Chi Minh CityPT Kido Jaya KarawangPT Sungintex Bantar Gebang

BekasiPT Trigoldenstar Wisesa Karawang




StoresJack Wolfskin’s productsare sold by more than4,000 retailers and throughits own stores

Jack Wolfskin’s products are sold by more than 4,000 retailers—primarily outdoor sporting goods specialists—across Europe.

Its products are also sold through more than 800 Jack Wolfskin stores,most of which are operated on a franchise basis.

The size of the company’sstores varies widely

The size of the company’s stores varies widely, from just 75 m2 to700 m2.

The stores are located inprime shopping locations

The stores are located in prime shopping locations, including airportsand areas which attract outdoor enthusiasts.

The company has focusedon expanding the numberof its stores,predominantly in Asia

Over the past two years, the company has focused on expanding thenumber of its stores. Most of the expansion has been in Asia.

Indeed, between March 2012 and May 2013, it increased the numberof its stores in China and South Korea by 47%. In absolute terms, theincrease amounted to 158 stores, which accounted for more than 85%of the total number of Jack Wolfskin stores opened worldwide duringthis period.

Table 5: Jack Wolfskin: number of stores by country, 2012 and 2013

No of stores ChangeCountry 2012a 2013b 2013/12China 322 459 137Germany 235 246 11South Korea 14 35 21Austria 17 22 5Switzerland 12 12 0Belgium 8 9 1UK 7 7 0Italy 6 7 1Poland 2 5 3France 4 4 0Luxembourg 4 4 0Russia 1 3 2Netherlands 2 1 -1Slovenia 0 1 1Turkey 0 1 1Total 634 816 182a As at March 1, 2012. b As at May 8, 2013.Source: Jack Wolfskin.

CataloguesCatalogues are distributed inJack Wolfskin stores or sentout by post to consumers

Catalogues are distributed in Jack Wolfskin stores or sent out by postto consumers. At the start of each new season, the catalogue’s printrun exceeds 800,000 copies.

Online retailingOnline sales are generated byJack Wolfskin’s own onlinestore and online stores ownedby other online retailers

Online sales are generated by Jack Wolfskin’s own onlinestore—which can be accessed via www.jack-wolfskin.com—as wellas from online stores owned by online retailers with whom thecompany has established a partnership.


9 Years are financial years ending September 30.


Figure 7

Jack Wolfskin: sales, 2003/04-2011/12

NB: years are financial years ending September 30Source: Jack Wolfskin

2003/04 2004/05 2005/06 2006/07 2007/08 2008/09 2009/10 2010/11 2011/120

100

200

300

400

73.097.4

129.6156.3

205.5

251.4

304.2

355.0 351.0

(Euro mn)

SALESOverall, Jack Wolfskin’ssales are heavily skewedtowards Europe althoughsales in China are set togrow following a largeincrease in the number ofstores in the country

Jack Wolfskin’s sales are heavily skewed towards Europe in general,and Austria and Germany in particular.

Overall, however, they are derived from a large number of marketsaround the world and sales in China are set to grow significantly as aresult of a large increase in the number of stores in the country betweenMarch 1, 2012, and May 8, 2013 (see Table 5).

Between 2003/04 and 2010/11,sales rose every year at dou-ble digit percentage rates

Between the company’s 2003/04 financial year and its 2010/11financial year9, sales rose every year at double digit percentage growthrates.

In 2011/12, however, salesdeclined by 1.1% due tosluggishness in coreEuropean markets

In 2011/12, however, sales declined by 1.1%, in contrast to a 16.7%increase in 2010/11. The decline in sales was attributed to sluggishnessin core European markets as a result of weakness in consumer spendingand unfavourable weather conditions.

On a positive note, sales ofapparel rose by 5%during 2011/12

On a positive note, sales of apparel rose by 5% during 2011/12 andmajor gains in sales were recorded in Asia, Eastern Europe and the UK.

MARKETINGJack Wolfskin reliesheavily on sponsorshipsto promote its brand

In common with other companies in the outdoor apparel industry,Jack Wolfskin relies heavily on sponsorships to promote itsbrand.

Some of its sponsorshipsare not associated withthe activities for whichits products are designed

In particular, the company sponsors a number of athletic teams,expeditions, organisations, clubs and events, although some of theseare not associated with the activities for which its products aredesigned.



In 2010 Jack Wolfskinbecame an official sponsor ofLiverpool Football Club in abid to attract new customergroups and increase itsrecognition in the UK

In 2010 Jack Wolfskin became an official sponsor of LiverpoolFootball Club, an English Premier League football club.

The move was prompted by a desire to attract new customer groupsto the outdoor clothing market and ultimately increase the company’sbrand recognition in the UK.

In July 2013 JackWolfskin announcedthat it was to give itscorporate identity amakeover in order torevamp its brand imageand promote its products

In July 2013 Jack Wolfskin announced that it was to give its corporateidentity a makeover in order to revamp its brand image and promoteits products.

The company has redesigned its paw print logo to give it a fresh lookand will use its “At Home Outdoors” motto more often. Also, itsclothing collection for the spring/summer 2014 season is expected tobe “one of its most attention-grabbing to date”.

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR)

CSR is a core value at JackWolfskin and the companyaims to conduct its businessin an environmentallysustainable manner

Executives at Jack Wolfskin maintain that corporate socialresponsibility (CSR) is a core value at the company, and that thecompany intends to prove that conducting its business in anenvironmentally sustainable manner will not compromise the qualityof its products or jeopardise the success of its business.

The former CEO of JackWolfskin believed thatdoing so would help thecompany to developsuccessfully

Indeed, according to a statement by the former chief executive officer(CEO) of the company, Manfred Hell: “Jack Wolfskin has alwaystaken its responsibility to the environment and to the people whomanufacture our products very seriously, and considers it afundamental prerequisite for successful company development”.

The company has analysedall its processes andproduced an action planto reduce specific CO2

emissions

In a bid to make its operations environmentally sustainable, thecompany has analysed all its processes and has produced an actionplan to reduce specific CO2 emissions.

It has already made substantial progress on this front. Between 2007and 2011, for example, it reduced CO2 emissions by more than 50%thanks to a number of initiatives, including the use of solar energy.

It also participates in aforestation programme

In addition, the company participates in a forestation programme tooffset the effect of CO2 emissions which it can not feasibly reduce.

For several years, thecompany has restricted theuse of hazardous substancesin the manufacture of itsproducts

For several years, Jack Wolfskin has restricted the use of hazardoussubstances in the manufacture of its products. The company is keento emphasise that, in many cases, its restrictions are more stringentthan those required by legal regulations or industry standards.



Table 6: Jack Wolfskin: key corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives

Date Corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiativeApril 2007 The company published a catalogue containing an overview of requirements relating to contaminants,

and it regulated the use of finishing treatments which may contain PFOSa and PFOAb

June 2007 The company developed a legally binding code of conductJanuary 2009 The company decided to stop using harmful substances and it banned the use of finishing treatments

which may contain PFOAb

June 2010 The company became one of the first companies in the outdoor industry to join the Fair WearFoundation (FWF)c

July 2010 The company published its first Supplier Social ReportDecember 2011 The company became a bluesignd system partnerJuly 2012 The company published its first Environmental Report and second Supplier Social ReportAugust 2012 The first bluesignd approved materials were used in its clothingSeptember 2012 The company decided to stop using fluorinated compoundsOctober 2012 The company joined the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programmee

February 2013 The company declared that all cotton used in future would be from certified organic sourcesSeptember 2013 Rules for restricted substances were made stricter by the companyMarch 2014 APEOsf and phthalates will be banned by the companyAugust 2014 Items in collections of travel products are to be free of fluorinated compoundsSeptember 2014 Data on up to 25% of global purchases will be publishedDecember 2014 The use of C8g will be banned by the companySeptember 2015 Data on up to 50% of global purchases will be publishedDecember 2016 50% of products will be free of PFCsh

December 2018 75% of products will be free of PFCsh

a Perfluorooctane sulphonate. b Perfluorooctanoic acid. c The Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) is a non-profit organisation whichworks with companies and factories to improve working conditions in the clothing industry. d bluesign, developed bySwitzerland-based bluesign technologies, is an environmental, health and safety (EHS) standard for the assessment ofmaterials and processes used in textile manufacturing; it certifies that a material or process is not harmful to humans or theenvironment. e Under the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, a consortium of companies havepledged to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals throughout their supply chains and products by 2020. f Alkylphenolethoxylates. g A compound which contains eight carbon atoms and 17 fluorine atoms. h Perfluorinated compounds.Source: Jack Wolfskin.

In early 2013 the companylaunched an action planunder which it aims toeliminate pollutants fromits supply chain by 2020

In early 2013 the company launched an action plan under the motto“Going the extra mile”. Under this plan, it aims to eliminate pollutantsfrom its supply chain by 2020.

The company will take a step-by-step approach to the elimination ofhazardous substances in all production processes by that year.

This will not be an easytask as alternativetechnologies for enhancingproduct performance haveproved inferior to thosewhich involve the use ofsuch substances

This will by no means be an easy task, given that alternativetechnologies for enhancing product performance have proved inferiorto those which involve the use of such substances.

This is especially true in the case of oil repellency, which hasproved to be difficult to achieve using methods which are moreenvironmentally friendly.

In an effort to achieve theseaims by the 2020 deadlinewithout compromising thequality of its products,Jack Wolfskin has teamedup with two researchinstitutes in Germany

Nonetheless, Jack Wolfskin is cautiously optimistic about achievingthese aims. In an effort to achieve these aims by the 2020 deadlinewithout compromising the quality of its products, the company hasteamed up with two research institutes in Germany, namelyHelmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht (Zentrum für Material- undKüstenforschung—Centre for Materials and Coastal Research) andFresenius University of Applied Sciences.


10 Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is found in trace amounts in fluorocarbons which are used in a number offinishes for fabrics. PFOA has been declared “likely to be carcinogenic to humans” by the US EnvironmentalProtection Agency (EPA).


The company has alreadyphased out its use offinishing treatments whichmay contain PFOA as thelatter is thought to beharmful to human health

The company has already phased out its use of finishing treatmentswhich may contain perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)10 as the latter isthought to be harmful to human health.

It is interesting to note that the decision to scrap the use of suchtreatments was voluntary as the EU has not yet defined limits forPFOA.

OUTLOOK

Jack Wolfskin is confidentabout the prospects for itssales even in the face offierce competition

Like many companies operating in the outdoor clothing industry, JackWolfskin is vulnerable to downturns in consumer spending.Nonetheless, it is confident about the prospects for its sales, even inthe face of fierce competition.

The company hasambitious plans in place tostrengthen its internationalpresence, and will focus onexpanding operations inthree markets which havehuge growth potential

The company is encouraged by the success of its brand in marketswhere it is already well established, and it has ambitious plans inplace to strengthen its international presence.

It sees huge growth potential in a number of markets, and will focuson expanding operations in three of these—namely China, Russia andthe UK.

The company is likely toremain a key beneficiaryof a number of favourabletrends in the outdoorapparel industry

While on its quest for expansion, the company is likely to remain akey beneficiary of a number of favourable trends in the outdoorapparel industry, notably:

● a quest for healthier lifestyles;● increasing participation in outdoor sports and recreational

activities; and● growth in the appeal of technical outdoor apparel for casual wear.

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Business update


Business update

SUMMARY

Several companies have reported increases in their quarterly sales, including Perry Ellis International(up by 1%), VF Corporation (up by 4%), Unifi (up by 7%), Nike (up by 8%) and Under Armour (upby 23%). However, falls have been reported by Columbia Sportswear (down by 3%), Quiksilver (alsodown by 3%), Adidas (down by 4%) and Puma (down by 8%).

Authentic Brands Group has acquired Spyder Active Sports, and JD Sports Fashion has acquired thefashion apparel retailer Ark. Columbia Sportswear has entered into an agreement with Chogori IndiaRetail relating to the distribution of Columbia Sportswear products in India, and Iconix India hasentered into a licensing agreement with Future Lifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of theUmbro brand in India. Meanwhile, Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreementwith Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifi’s Repreve polyester staple fibre. Teijin Aramid will invest¥4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a new manufacturing facilityat its existing site in Ayutthaya Province, Thailand, and Burlington Industries has won a contract worthUS$5.3 mn from the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyester fabric.

Patagonia has officially launched a new garment recycling scheme in four of its stores in the USAfollowing a successful pilot period, while the Outdoor Industries Association Social ResponsibilityWorking Group (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook in order to help outdoor apparelcompanies to comply with corporate social responsibility (CSR) guidelines.

Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, and Matalan has opened a new chain ofsportswear and sports equipment stores, called Sporting Pro, in the UK. Sports Direct is in discussionswith Tesco relating to the opening of Sports Direct stores inside three of Tesco’s largest UKhypermarkets, and Ethan Wishnick plans to launch a new brand of performance apparel, called Toren,in spring 2014. Macy’s has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids Sports Group relating to theopening of new sportswear concessions inside Macy’s stores, and it will expand its offering ofsportswear and activewear in its stores in a bid to attract a greater number of millennial consumers.

ACQUISITIONS, DIVESTMENTS AND MERGERS

AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP HAS ACQUIRED SPYDERACTIVE SPORTS

Authentic Brands Grouphas acquired SpyderActive Sports, which isthe first outdoor andwinter sports apparelcompany in AuthenticBrands Group’s portfolio

Authentic Brands Group—a USA-based brand development andlicensing company—has acquired Spyder Active Sports, a USA-basedmanufacturer and retailer of high quality winter sports apparel.Financial details of the acquisition have not been disclosed.

Spyder Active Sports is the first outdoor and winter sports apparelcompany in Authentic Brands Group’s portfolio.



Authentic Brands Groupwas attracted to acquiringSpyder Active Sports as thelatter produces highlytechnical and fashionableapparel and is well respectedby outdoor enthusiasts

Authentic Brands Group was attracted to acquiring Spyder ActiveSports as the latter produces highly technical and fashionable appareland is well respected by outdoor enthusiasts.

Spyder Active Sports has been the official supplier of sportswear tothe US Ski Team since 1989 and the Canadian Alpine Ski Team since2002.

The acquisition will enableSpyder Active Sports toexpand into new markets

According to the chief executive officer (CEO) of Spyder ActiveSports, Tom McGann, the acquisition will enable the company toexpand into new geographical markets.

Authentic Brands Group hasentered into two agreementswith LF USA and LF Asia

In connection with the acquisition, Authentic Brands Group hasentered into two separate licensing agreements with LF USA andLF Asia relating to the Spyder Active Sports brand.

LF USA will be thelicensee for the SpyderActive Sports brand in theAmericas and in EMEA,and LF Asia will be thelicensee for the brand inAsia-Pacific

LF USA will act as the exclusive licensee for the Spyder ActiveSports brand in the Americas, and in Europe, the Middle East andAfrica (EMEA).

LF Asia, meanwhile, will act as the exclusive licensee for the brandin the Asia-Pacific region.

LF USA and LF Asia are subsidiaries of Li & Fung, a multinationalsourcing company.

JD SPORTS FASHION HAS ACQUIRED THE FASHIONAPPAREL RETAILER ARK

JD Sports Fashion hasacquired Ark, a fashionapparel retailer

JD Sports Fashion—a UK-based retail group which owns a number ofbrands—has acquired Ark, a fashion apparel retailer which is alsobased in the UK.

Ark entered intoadministration inJune 2013—

Ark entered into administration at the end of June 2013 as a result offinancial difficulties. Ark stated that its sales had been affected byincreasing competition from online retailers.

—and closed down fourof its 14 stores

During the period for which it was in administration, Ark closed downfour of its 14 stores and made 40 of its 200 employees redundant.

JD Sports Fashion willown the ten remainingArk stores and 160 jobshave been safeguarded

Under the terms of the acquisition, JD Sports Fashion will own the tenArk stores which were not closed. As a result, the jobs of Ark’sremaining 160 employees have been safeguarded. Ark will continueto operate the ten stores from its headquarters in Leeds, UK.

The acquisition formspart of JD SportsFashion’s “ambitious”expansion plans

JD Sports Fashion’s acquisition of Ark forms part of its “ambitious”expansion plans. Indeed, in January 2012 the group acquired BlacksLeisure Group—a UK-based retail group which owns the Blacks andMillets outdoor retailers—and in February 2013 it acquired Gio Goi,a UK-based fashion apparel brand.


1 See also “Profiles of six leading US apparel retailers”, Global Apparel Markets, No 22, 2nd quarter 2013.2 Millennial consumers are consumers aged between 13 and 30 years.3 See also “Profile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate social responsibility (CSR)”, Performance ApparelMarkets, No 44, 1st quarter 2013.


COMPANY STRATEGY

MACY’S WILL EXPAND ITS OFFERING OF SPORTSWEARAND ACTIVEWEAR IN A BID TO ATTRACT A GREATERNUMBER OF MILLENNIAL CONSUMERS

Macy’s will expand its sports-wear and activewear range toattract millennial consumers

Macy’s1, a USA-based department store retailer, will expand itsoffering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greaternumber of millennial consumers2.

Macy’s has noticed thatmillennial consumers whobuy fashion items in itsstores also buy sportswearor activewear during thesame visit, so it decided toexpand its ranges

Macy’s has noticed that millennial consumers who purchase fashionitems in its stores frequently purchase items of sportswear oractivewear during the same visit.

As a result, Macy’s has decided to expand its sportswear andactivewear ranges to enable it to cater to the needs of its millennialconsumers more fully.

Specifically, it willexpand its offeringsof five brands

Specifically, Macy’s will expand its offerings of:

● CK Performance activewear for women;● Ideology activewear for women;● Nike sportswear for men, women, boys and girls;● The North Face activewear for men, women, boys and girls; and● Under Armour activewear for men, women and boys.

In addition, it willintroduce Helly Hansenactivewear to its storesfor the first time

In addition, Macy’s will introduce Helly Hansen activewear to itsstores for the first time. Helly Hansen activewear for men will beavailable in 30 of its stores while Helly Hansen activewear for womenwill be available in 25 of its stores.

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR)

PATAGONIA HAS OFFICIALLY LAUNCHED A NEWGARMENT RECYCLING SCHEME IN FOUR OF ITSSTORES IN THE USA FOLLOWING A SUCCESSFULPILOT PERIOD

Patagonia has launched anew garment recyclingscheme in four of its storesin the USA—

Patagonia3—a USA-based retailer of outdoor apparel—has officiallylaunched a new garment recycling scheme, called Worn Wear, in fourof its stores in the USA.



—following a successfulpilot version of the schemeat a store in Portland

The garment recycling scheme was launched following the success ofa pilot version of the scheme at a Patagonia store in Portland, Oregon,USA.

The scheme has now beenlaunched officially in thePortland store and threeother stores

As the pilot version proved to be extremely popular with consumers,the scheme has now been launched officially in the Portland store aswell as in three other Patagonia stores—in Chicago, Palo Alto andSeattle.

Under the scheme, consum-ers can hand in unwanted ordamaged Patagonia clothing

Under the scheme, a consumer is able to hand in items of Patagoniaclothing which are damaged or which he or she no longer has usefor.

In return, they willreceive a voucher whichcan be redeemed againstnew Patagonia products

In return for each item the consumer hands in, he or she will receivea voucher with a value equal to 50% of the original price of the item.The voucher can be redeemed against new Patagonia products inphysical Patagonia stores or via the online Patagonia store.

Patagonia will resell itemsin good condition via itsonline store, and willrecycle as many elements aspossible of the remainder

Patagonia will resell items which are in good condition via the WornWear section of its online store.

For those items which Patagonia can not resell, it will aim to recycleas many elements as possible of each item.

According to the vice-president of marketing atPatagonia, the scheme willhelp to put good productsback in circulation

When news of the scheme was announced, the vice-president ofmarketing at Patagonia, Vincent Stanley, said: “If a company makessomething good, you want it to stay in circulation. We wanted tomake it easier for customers to put things back in circulation,particularly expensive items”.

THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION SOCIALRESPONSIBILITY WORKING GROUP (OIA SRWG) HASLAUNCHED A NEW ONLINE GUIDEBOOK TO HELPOUTDOOR APPAREL COMPANIES TO COMPLY WITHCORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR)GUIDELINES

OIA SRWG has launched anew guidebook to help out-door apparel companies tocomply with CSR guidelines

The Outdoor Industries Association Social Responsibility WorkingGroup (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook to helpoutdoor apparel companies to comply with corporate socialresponsibility (CSR) guidelines.

OIA SRWG is a divisionof the Outdoor IndustriesAssociation (OIA)

The OIA SRWG is a division of the Outdoor Industries Association(OIA) and was set up to explore issues relating to CSR in the outdoorapparel industry.

The guidebook wasdeveloped because manyoutdoor apparel companiesfind it difficult to establishCSR strategies

The OIA SRWG developed the guidebook after learning that manyoutdoor apparel companies were finding it difficult to establish CSRstrategies because they found existing information regarding CSRstrategies to be too complex and to contain too much jargon.


4 Calculations made on a currency adjusted basis have been corrected to remove the effects of variations incurrency exchange rates.


The guidebook explains whyit is beneficial to implementsuch a strategy and how acompany can do so

The guidebook provides information which explains why it isbeneficial for an outdoor apparel company to implement a basic CSRstrategy, and gives advice on the ways in which the company canimplement such a strategy.

It comprises a maindocument and an appendix

The guidebook comprises a main document and an appendix of toolsand resources.

The main documentcontains informationcovering several topics

The main document contains information covering several topics,including:

● obtaining approval from company executives to implement a CSRstrategy;

● creating a code of conduct;● informing suppliers and customers of the expectations of the

strategy;● identifying high risk areas in the supply chain;● monitoring compliance with the strategy; and● training staff in the ways in which they must comply with the

strategy.

The appendix provides extrainformation relating to eachof the topics covered by themain document

The appendix of tools and resources provides companies withadditional information relating to each of the topics covered by themain document. It includes links to helpful websites and researchpapers, as well as examples of successful CSR strategies.

In the future, the OIASRWG plans to releasetwo more versions ofthe guidebook

In the future, the OIA SRWG plans to release two more versions ofthe guidebook. One version will advise outdoor apparel companies onhow they can improve upon the basic CSR strategy set out in the firstguidebook, while the other version will advise companies on how theycan implement an advanced CSR strategy.

Companies can downloadthe guidebook online

Companies can download the guidebook online by visiting:www.outdoorindustry.org/responsibility/social/toolkit.html.

FINANCIAL RESULTS

ADIDASAdidas has reported resultsfor the second quarter andthe first half of 2013

Germany-based Adidas—one of the world’s largest sportswearcompanies—has reported results for the second quarter and the firsthalf of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 2013.

Second quarter 2013In the second quarter of2013, total revenues weredown by 4%, but on acurrency adjusted basisthey remained unchanged

In the second quarter of 2013, total revenues were down by 4% toEuro3,383 mn (US$4,456 mn) compared with Euro3,517 mn in thecorresponding period of the previous year. On a currency adjustedbasis4, total revenues remained more or less unchanged.



Retail revenues were up,but wholesales revenuesand revenues from “otherbusinesses” were down

Within the Euro3,383 mn total, retail revenues were up by 2% toEuro867 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% toEuro2,014 mn and revenues generated under the company’s “otherbusinesses” category were down by 9% to Euro502 mn.

Reebok, Rockport andReebok-CCM Hockeyrevenues rose—

A breakdown by brand shows that Reebok revenues were up by 6%and Rockport revenues by 3%, while Reebok-CCM Hockey revenueswere up marginally.

—but TaylorMade-AdidasGolf and Adidas revenueswere down

By contrast, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues were down by 13%and Adidas revenues by 4% (Table 1).

Table 1: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013

ChangeValue In Currency

2 qtr 2012 2 qtr 2013 euro terms adjusted(Euro mn) (Euro mn) (%) (%)

Adidas 2,649 2,546 -4 0Reebok 336 355 6 11TaylorMade-adidas Golf 401 348 -13 -8Rockport 67 69 3 7Reebok-CCM Hockey 64 65 0 2Total 3,517 3,383 -4 0NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.Source: Adidas.

Revenues in Latin Americawere up by 13% and in“Greater China” by 7%

A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues inLatin America were up by 13% and those in “Greater China”—whichcomprises China, Hong Kong and Taiwan—were up by 7% (Table 2).

By contrast, revenues inWestern Europe fell by12% and those in “otherAsian markets” by 7%

By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 12% andthose in “other Asian markets”—which comprise Australia, India,Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Singapore,South Korea, Thailand and Vietnam—were down by 7%.

Revenues in “Europeanemerging markets” fell by4% and those in NorthAmerica also fell by 4%

Revenues in “European emerging markets”—consisting of Armenia,Belarus, Bulgaria, Egypt, Israel, Kazakhstan, Romania, Russia,Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine and theUnited Arab Emirates (UAE)—were down by 4% and those in NorthAmerica were also down by 4%.

Table 2: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013


2 qtr 2012 2 qtr 2013 euro terms adjusted(Euro mn) (Euro mn) (%) (%)

Western Europe 924 812 -12 -11North America 859 826 -4 -2European emerging markets 487 467 -4 0Latin America 332 376 13 21Greater China 347 371 7 6Other Asian markets 568 531 -7 7Total 3,517 3,383 -4 0NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.Source: Adidas.



The company’s net income,meanwhile, was up by 5%

The company’s net income, meanwhile, was up by 5% to Euro171 mncompared with Euro164 mn in the second quarter of 2012.

First half 2013In the first half of 2013,total revenues were downby 3%, but revenuesremained unchanged on acurrency adjusted basis

In the first half of 2013, total revenues were down by 3% toEuro7,134 mn compared with Euro7,341 mn in the correspondingperiod one year earlier.

On a currency adjusted basis, however, total revenues remainedunchanged.

Retail revenues were up,but wholesale revenuesand revenues from “otherbusinesses” were down

Within the Euro7,134 mn total, retail revenues were up by 3% toEuro1,589 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% toEuro4,495 mn and revenues generated under the company’s “otherbusinesses” category were down by 2% to Euro1,050 mn.

Rockport revenues were up,but Reebok, Reebok-CCMHockey, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf and Adidasrevenues were down

A breakdown by brand shows that Rockport revenues were up by 2%.By contrast, Reebok revenues were down by 7%, Reebok-CCMHockey revenues by 6%, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues by 2%and Adidas revenues also by 2% (Table 3).

Table 3: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, Jan-Jun 2012 andJan-Jun 2013


Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013 euro terms adjusted(Euro mn) (Euro mn) (%) (%)

Adidas 5,537 5,404 -2 0TaylorMade-adidas Golf 788 771 -2 2Reebok 787 733 -7 -4Rockport 127 130 2 4Reebok-CCM Hockey 102 96 -6 -6Total 7,341 7,134 -3 0

NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.Source: Adidas.

Revenues in Latin Americaand in Greater China rose

A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues inLatin America were up by 9% and in Greater China by 7% (Table 4).

Table 4: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, Jan-Jun 2012 andJan-Jun 2013


Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013 euro terms adjusted(Euro mn) (Euro mn) (%) (%)

Western Europe 2,098 1,907 -9 -9North America 1,728 1,716 -1 1European emerging markets 917 901 -2 1Latin America 704 765 9 16Greater China 732 781 7 6Other Asian markets 1,162 1,064 -8 1Total 7,341 7,134 -3 0

NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.Source: Adidas.



But revenues elsewherewere down

By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 9%, in otherAsian markets by 8%, in European emerging markets by 2% and inNorth America by 1%.

The company’s net income,meanwhile, was up by 6%

The company’s net income, meanwhile, was up by 6% to Euro481 mncompared with Euro454 mn in the first half of 2012.

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEARColumbia Sportswear hasreported results for thesecond quarter and thefirst half of 2013

Columbia Sportswear, a USA-based manufacturer of sportswear andoutdoor clothing, has reported results for the second quarter and thefirst half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30,2013.

Second quarter 2013In the second quarter of2013, net sales were downby 3% to US$280.5 mn

In the second quarter of 2013, net sales were down by 3% toUS$280.5 mn compared with US$290.4 mn in the correspondingperiod of the previous year.

Sales in EMEA were downby 24% and those inLAAP by 3%, but sales inCanada were up by 52%and those in the USA by6%

A breakdown by region shows that sales in Europe, the Middle Eastand Africa (EMEA) were down by 24% to US$53.1 mn and those inLatin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 3% to US$81.2 mn.

By contrast, sales in Canada were up by 52% to US$6.4 mn and thosein the USA by 6% to US$139.8 mn.

Sales of apparel, accessoriesand equipment fell by 2%and footwear sales by 9%

A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel,accessories and equipment were down by 2% to US$235.7 mn andsales of footwear by 9% to US$44.8 mn.

Sales of brands under thecompany’s “other”category were down by16%, Mountain Hardwearbrand sales by 5% andColumbia brand sales by3%, while Sorel brandsales remained unchanged

A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the company’s Montrailand Pacific Trail brands—which come under the company’s “other”category—were down by 16% to US$2.6 mn, sales of its MountainHardwear brand by 5% to US$22.5 mn and sales of its Columbiabrand by 3% to US$252.5 mn.

However, sales of its Sorel brand remained unchanged atUS$2.9 mn.

Meanwhile, Columbiaincurred a net lossof US$7.3 mn

Meanwhile, Columbia incurred a net loss of US$7.3 mn comparedwith a net loss of US$7.9 mn in the corresponding period of theprevious year.

First half 2013In the first half of 2013,net sales were up by 1%to US$628.8 mn

In the first half of 2013, net sales were up by 1% to US$628.8 mncompared with US$623.5 mn in the corresponding period of theprevious year.

Sales in the USA were upby 5%, in Canada by 3%and in LAAP by 2%

A breakdown by region shows that sales in the USA increased by 5%to US$340.3 mn, sales in Canada by 3% to US$30.2 mn and sales inLatin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 2% to US$164.3 mn.



By contrast, sales inEMEA were down by 13%

By contrast, sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA)were down by 13% to US$94.0 mn.

Sales of apparel, accessoriesand equipment and sales offootwear were up by 1%

A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel,accessories and equipment were up by 1%, to US$530.0 mn, and salesof footwear were also up by 1%, to US$98.8 mn.

Sales of the company’sSorel brand soared by 65%

A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the company’s Sorel brandsoared by 65% to US$15.3 mn.

Columbia brand sales andMountain Hardwear brandsales remained unchanged

Sales of its Columbia brand remained unchanged at US$553.6 mn andsales of its Mountain Hardwear brand also remained unchanged, atUS$54.6 mn.

By contrast, sales under thecompany’s “other” categorywere down by 12%

By contrast, sales of the company’s Montrail and Pacific Trailbrands—which come under the company’s “other” category—weredown by 12% to US$5.3 mn.

Meanwhile, Columbiaachieved a net income ofUS$2.8 mn after making aloss of US$4.0 mn

Meanwhile, Columbia achieved a net income of US$2.8 mn comparedwith a net loss of US$4.0 mn in the corresponding period of theprevious year.

NIKENike has reported resultsfor the first quarter of its2013/14 financial year

The USA-based sportswear giant Nike has reported results for thefirst quarter of its 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended onAugust 31, 2013.

Revenues in the quarterwere up by 8%

Revenues in the quarter were up by 8% to US$6,971 mn comparedwith US$6,474 mn in the corresponding period of the previousyear.

Revenues in Central andEastern Europe were upby 12%

A geographical breakdown shows that the fastest increase was inCentral and Eastern Europe where revenues were up by 12%, fromUS$327 mn to US$366 mn.

Revenues in Western Europewere up by 11% and inNorth America by 9%

Revenues in Western Europe were up by 11%, from US$1,176 mn toUS$1,301 mn, and revenues in North America were up by 9%, fromUS$2,866 mn to US$3,135 mn.

Revenues in EmergingMarkets were up by 1%

Revenues in Emerging Markets—which the company defines as Southand Central America, the Pacific region and Asia, excluding GreaterChina and Japan—were up by only 1%, from US$897 mn toUS$902 mn.

By contrast, revenuesin Japan were downby 20% and inGreater China by 1%

By contrast, revenues in Japan were down by 20%, from US$197 mnto US$158 mn, and revenues in Greater China—which the companydefines as mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan—were down by1%, from US$577 mn to US$574 mn.


5 Starting in the first quarter of 2013/14, Nike has changed the reporting structure for what was historicallyidentified as “Other Businesses”, which included the Converse, Hurley and Nike Golf brands. The Hurleyand Nike Golf brands are now included in the overall financial results for the Nike brand and for individualcountries and geographical regions, reflecting the operational integration of these businesses into the NikeBrand category. Converse will be reported as a separate segment, reflecting the ongoing operation of thisbrand as a stand-alone business.


Revenues generated byConverse were up by 18%

Revenues generated by the Converse brand5 were up by 18%, fromUS$418 mn to US$494 mn.

The company’s net incomefrom continuing operations,meanwhile, was up by 33%

The company’s net income from continuing operations, meanwhile,was up by 33% to US$780 mn compared with US$585 mn in thecorresponding period of 2012/13.

EBIT in Central andEastern Europe was upby 50%, in NorthAmerica by 26%, inWestern Europe by 25%,in Japan by 4% and inGreater China by 3%

On a geographical basis, earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) inCentral and Eastern Europe were up by 50% to US$81 mn, inNorth America by 26% to US$813 mn and in Western Europe by25% to US$265 mn.

EBIT in Japan was up by 4% to US$24 mn and in Greater China by3% to US$170 mn.

But EBIT in EmergingMarkets was down by 5%

However, EBIT in Emerging Markets was down by 5% toUS$210 mn.

Meanwhile, EBITgenerated by Conversewas up by 36%

Meanwhile, EBIT generated by Converse was up by 36% toUS$169 mn.

PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONALPerry Ellis Internationalhas reported results for thesecond quarter of 2013/14

Perry Ellis International, a USA-based apparel manufacturer with alarge family of brands, has reported results for the second quarter ofits 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended on August 3, 2013.

Total revenues in thequarter were up by 1.1%to US$211.7 mn

Total revenues in the quarter were up by 1.1% to US$211.7 mncompared with US$209.4 mn in the corresponding period of theprevious year.

However, the company’snet loss increased fromUS$2.4 mn to US$2.8 mn

However, the company posted a net loss of US$2.8 mn which washigher than the net loss of US$2.4 mn posted for the correspondingperiod one year earlier.

OutlookIn the whole of 2013/14,revenues are expected tobe 2-3% higher thanthose in 2012/13

In the light of these results, Perry Ellis International is expecting itsrevenues for the whole of its 2013/14 financial year to be 2-3% higherthan those generated in the whole of its 2012/13 financial year.

PUMAPuma has released resultsfor the second quarter andthe first half of 2013

The Germany-based sportswear company Puma has released results forthe second quarter and the first half of its 2013 financial year. Bothperiods ended on June 30, 2013.



Second quarter 2013In the second quarterof 2013, sales weredown by 8.0%

In the second quarter of 2013, Puma’s worldwide consolidated saleswere down by 8.0% to Euro692.3 mn (US$903.9 mn) compared withEuro752.9 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.

The decrease has beenattributed to a numberof factors

The decrease has been attributed to sluggish sales in southern Europeand Asia, as well as the impact of currency conversions in thecountries in which Puma does business.

Sales of apparel were downby 11.5% and sales of foot-wear by 11.1%, but sales ofaccessories were up by 7.9%

A breakdown of sales shows that sales of apparel were down by11.5% to Euro227.0 mn and sales of footwear by 11.1% toEuro329.8 mn—although sales of accessories were up by 7.9% toEuro135.6 mn.

Sales in Asia Pacific weredown by 16.5%, sales inEMEA by 6.1% and salesin the Americas by 4.2%

On a geographical basis, sales in all three reporting regions declined.In Asia Pacific sales were down by 16.5% to Euro159.1 mn. InEurope, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) sales were down by6.1% to Euro266.2 mn, and in the Americas they were down by 4.2%to Euro267.0 mn.

Net earnings, meanwhile,were down by 34.2%

Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 34.2% to Euro17.5 mncompared with Euro26.7 mn in the corresponding period one yearearlier.

First half 2013In the first half of 2013,sales were down by 6.3%

In the first half of 2013, the company’s worldwide consolidatedsales were down by 6.3% to Euro1,473.9 mn compared withEuro1,573.8 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.

Sales of footwear were downby 10.5% and sales ofapparel by 7.8%, but sales ofaccessories were up by 9.0%

A breakdown by product category shows that sales of footwear weredown by 10.5% to Euro702.8 mn and sales of apparel by 7.8% toEuro483.1 mn, although sales of accessories were up by 9.0% toEuro288.0 mn.

Sales in Asia Pacific weredown by 13.1%, sales inEMEA by 5.7% and salesin the Americas by 2.3%

On a geographical basis, sales in Asia Pacific were down by 13.1%to Euro332.5 mn, sales in the EMEA region were down by 5.7% toEuro614.1 mn and sales in the Americas were down by 2.3% toEuro527.2 mn.

Net earnings were downby 32.6%

Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 32.6% to Euro67.8 mncompared with Euro100.6 mn in the first half of 2012.

QUIKSILVERQuiksilver has releasedresults for the thirdquarter of 2012/13

Quiksilver, a USA-based manufacturer of surf apparel, has releasedresults for the third quarter of its 2012/13 financial year. The quarterended on July 31, 2013.

Consolidated netrevenues in the quarterwere down by 3%

Consolidated net revenues from continuing operations in the quarterwere down by 3% to US$495.8 mn compared with US$512.4 mn inthe corresponding period one year earlier.


6 Results for Unifi’s 2012/13 financial year relate to a 53-week period whereas results for its 2011/12financial period relate to a 52-week period. Results for the fourth quarter of its 2012/13 financial year relateto a 14-week period whereas results for the fourth quarter of its 2011/12 financial year relate to a 13-weekperiod.


Net revenues in the Asia-Pacific region were downby 12% and those in theAmericas were down by 6%

A breakdown by geographical region shows that net revenues in theAsia-Pacific region were down by 12%, from US$71.6 mn toUS$63.4 mn, and those in the Americas were down by 6%, fromUS$286.1 mn to US$268.0 mn.

By contrast, net revenuesin EMEA were up by 6%

By contrast, net revenues in Europe, the Middle East and Africa(EMEA) were up by 6% to US$163.8 mn compared withUS$154.1 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Corporate operationsaccounted for US$0.6 mn

The remaining US$0.6 mn was accounted for under the company’scorporate operations category.

The company’s net incomeplummeted by 85%

The company’s net income, meanwhile, plummeted by 85%, fromUS$12.5 mn to US$1.8 mn.

UNDER ARMOURUnder Armour hasreported results for thesecond quarter of its2013 financial year

Under Armour, a USA-based company which specialises inperformance apparel with moisture wicking capabilities, has reportedresults for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarterended on June 30, 2013.

Total net revenues inthe quarter were upby 23.0%

Total net revenues in the quarter were up by 23.0% to US$454.5 mncompared with US$369.5 mn in the corresponding period of theprevious year.

Apparel revenues were upby 22.7% due to strongsales of new base layerproducts

A breakdown by product category shows that apparel revenues wereup by 22.7% from US$252.8 mn to US$310.2 mn. The increase wasattributed to strong sales of new base layer products and the expansionof the Storm and Charged Cotton brands.

Sales of accessories wereup by 30.1% and sales offootwear by 21.1%

Sales of accessories were up by 30.1% to US$51.0 mn compared withUS$39.2 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year,and sales of footwear were up by 21.1%, from US$67.4 mn toUS$81.7 mn.

Meanwhile, thecompany’s net incomesoared by 163.4%

Meanwhile, the company’s net income in the quarter soared by163.4% to US$17.6 mn compared with US$6.7 mn in thecorresponding period of 2012.

UNIFIUnifi has reported resultsfor the fourth quarter andthe whole of 2012/13

USA-based Unifi, one of the world’s largest producers of texturedyarns, has reported results for the fourth quarter and the whole of its2012/13 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 20136.



Fourth quarter 2012/13In the fourth quarter of2012/13, net sales wereup by 6.8%

In the fourth quarter of 2012/13, net sales were up by 6.8% toUS$200.7 mn compared with US$187.9 mn in the correspondingperiod of the previous year.

However, the company’snet income was down by6.8%

However, the company’s net income (excluding minority interests)was down by 6.8% to US$10.5 mn compared with US$11.3 mn in thecorresponding period a year earlier.

2012/13In the whole of 2012/13,net sales were up by 1.3%

In the whole of 2012/13, net sales were up by 1.3% to US$714.0 mnfrom US$705.1 mn in the previous year.

The company’s netincome, meanwhile,soared by 44.8%

The company’s net income (excluding minority interests), meanwhile,soared by 44.8% to US$16.6 mn compared with US$11.5 mn in2011/12.

VF CORPORATIONVF Corporation hasannounced results for thesecond quarter of 2013

The USA-based clothing company VF Corporation has announcedresults for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarterended on June 29, 2013.

Revenues in the quarterwere up by 4%

Revenues in the quarter were up by 4% to US$2,220.4 mn comparedwith US$2,141.8 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier.

The increase reflectedgrowth in three of the com-pany’s five business units

The increase in revenues reflected growth in three of the company’sfive business units—namely Sportswear, Outdoor & Action Sports andJeanswear. VF refers to these business units as “coalitions”.

The fastest increasewas a 14% rise in theSportswear unit

The fastest increase was a 14% rise, to US$133.5 mn, in theSportswear unit—which includes the Nautica brand, as well as theKipling brand in North America.

Revenues in the Outdoor& Action Sports unitwere up by 6%—

Revenues in the Outdoor & Action Sports unit—which includes thebrands Eagle Creek, Eastpak, JanSport, Kipling, Lucy, Napapijri,Smartwool, The North Face, Timberland and Vans—were up by 6%to US$1,103.6 mn.

—and in the Jeanswearunit by 3%

Meanwhile, revenues in the Jeanswear unit—which includes the Lee,Riders and Wranglers brands—were up by 3% to US$611.7 mn.

By contrast, revenues inthe Contemporary Brandsunit were down by 9%—

By contrast, revenues in the Contemporary Brands unit—whichconsists of the brands 7 For All Mankind, Ella Moss andSplendid—were down by 9% to US$98.6 mn.

—and in the Imagewearunit by 4%

Revenues in the Imagewear unit were down by 4% toUS$241.8 mn.

Revenues in the “other”category were US$31.1 mn

Revenues which come under the company’s “other” category werevalued at US$31.1 mn.



VF’s net income wasdown by 11%

Meanwhile, VF’s net income (excluding minority interests) in thequarter was down by 11% to US$138.2 mn compared withUS$155.3 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.

INVESTMENTS

TEIJIN ARAMID WILL INVEST ¥4.5 BN IN DEVELOPINGA NEW META-ARAMID FIBRE AND BUILDING A NEWMANUFACTURING FACILITY IN THAILAND

Teijin Aramid will invest¥4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) indeveloping a newmeta-aramid fibre andbuilding a newmanufacturing facility atits existing site inAyutthaya Province,Thailand

Teijin Aramid—a Netherlands-based specialist in aramid fibres and asubsidiary of Japan-based Teijin Group—will invest ¥4.5 bn(US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building anew manufacturing facility at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province,Thailand.

Teijin Aramid claims that the new meta-aramid fibre will have ahigher level of heat resistance than any existing meta-aramid fibre, aswell as excellent dyeability. The new meta-aramid fibre will besuitable for use in the manufacture of protective apparel.

The facility will developthe new meta-aramidfibre, and will startproducing it in July 2015

The facility will be dedicated to the development and manufacture ofthe new meta-aramid fibre.

Construction of the facility will start in December 2013, and the fibrewill go into production in July 2015.

The development of thenew meta-aramid fibrewill “strengthen Teijin’scompetitiveness” in Asiaas demand for such fibresin the region is growing assafety regulations becomemore stringent

When news of the investment was announced, the group executiveofficer and general manager of Teijin Aramid’s high performancefibres unit, Masaya Endo, commented that the development of the newmeta-aramid fibre would “strengthen Teijin’s competitiveness in theemerging economies of Asia”.

He added that demand for heat resistant and flame resistant fibrein the region is growing as safety regulations become more stringent.

JOINT VENTURES, COOPERATION, LICENSING ANDDISTRIBUTION

BURLINGTON INDUSTRIES HAS WON A CONTRACTFROM THE US AIR FORCE RELATING TO THE SUPPLYOF MICRODENIER POLYESTER FABRIC

Burlington Industries haswon a contract from theUS Air Force to supplymicrodenier polyester fabric

Burlington Industries—a USA-based textile manufacturer and adivision of International Textile Group (ITG)—has won a contractfrom the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyesterfabric. The contract is valued at US$5.3 mn.



The company willmanufacture the fabric at itsfacility and supply it to theUS Air Force, which will useit in the production of shortsfor use by its members

Under the terms of the contract, Burlington Industries willmanufacture the fabric at its facility in North Carolina, USA, andsupply it to the US Air Force.

The US Air Force will use the fabric in the production of shorts foruse by its members during physical training exercises.

The fabric is 35% lighterthan the fabric currentlyused to make the shorts

The fabric is 35% lighter than the fabric which is currentlyused to manufacture the shorts worn by members of theUS Air Force.

Also, it is highlybreathable, has moisturewicking properties—

Also, the fabric is highly breathable and has moisture wickingproperties. As a result, it helps to keep the wearer cool, dry andcomfortable during physical activity.

—and is stain resistant In addition, the fabric is stain resistant. Therefore shorts made fromthe fabric are particularly suitable for use during outdoor physicaltraining exercises when they may come into contact with grass ormud.

The US Air Force is impro-ving its training programmeand felt that its traininguniform should includemore technical functions

The US Air Force decided to update the fabric which it uses tomanufacture its physical training shorts because it is in the process ofimproving its physical training programme, and felt that its physicaltraining uniform should be updated to include a greater number oftechnical functions.

Since the start of 2013,Burlington Industries haswon seven contracts fromthe US military

Since the start of 2013, Burlington Industries has won seven contractsfrom the US military which, in total, are worth approximatelyUS$236.0 mn.

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR HAS ENTERED INTO ADISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH CHOGORI INDIARETAIL

Columbia Sportswear hasentered into an agreementwith Chogori India Retail

Columbia Sportswear—a USA-based retailer of outdoor apparel—hasentered into a distribution agreement with Chogori India Retail, adistribution and retail company based in India.

The latter will be thedistributor of ColumbiaSportswear products in India

Under the terms of the agreement, Chogori India Retail will actas the exclusive distributor of Columbia Sportswear products inIndia.

Chogori India Retail waschosen as it has over tenyears’ experience inbuilding consumer brands,and it also works with tenother outdoor apparelbrands in India

Columbia Sportswear selected Chogori India Retail as its distributionpartner in India as the company has over ten years’ experience inbuilding consumer brands in the country.

Chogori India Retail acts as a retailer or distributor for ten otheroutdoor apparel brands in India.


7 See also Macy’s will expand its offering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greaternumber of millennial consumers on page 77 of this issue.8 A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually adepartment store.


ICONIX INDIA HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSINGAGREEMENT WITH FUTURE LIFESTYLE FASHIONSRELATING TO THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE UMBROBRAND IN INDIA

Iconix India has entered intoa licensing agreement withFuture Lifestyle Fashions

Iconix India has entered into a licensing agreement with FutureLifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of the Umbro brand inIndia.

Iconix India is a division ofIconix Brand Group, andresponsible for licensing thegroup’s brands in India

Iconix India is the Indian division of Iconix Brand Group—aUSA-based brand licensing company which owns the Umbro brand.It is responsible for the licensing of Iconix Brand Group’s apparel andhome brands in India.

Future Lifestyle Fashionsoperates a chain of discountdepartment stores

Future Lifestyle Fashions is the retail division of Future Group, anIndia-based company which operates a chain of discount departmentstores.

Future Lifestyle Fashionswill sell Umbro brandedsportswear in its own retailstores in India and in othercompany brand outlets

Under the terms of the agreement, Future Lifestyle Fashions will sellUmbro branded sportswear in its own retail stores in India.

It will also sell Umbro branded sportswear in brand outlet storesowned by other companies.

There is increasingdemand for brandedsportswear in India and agrowing trend for wearingbranded sportswear ascasual wear, as well as agrowing interest in sports

Iconix Brand Group decided to launch the Umbro brand in India inresponse to an increase in demand for branded sportswear in thecountry, and a growing trend among Indian consumers for wearingbranded sportswear as casual wear.

Also, there is growing interest in the country in sports such asfootball, hockey and tennis.

There is said to be a gapin demand and supplyof branded sportswear inIndia and so Umbro willhelp to fill this gap

When news of the agreement was announced, the chief executiveofficer (CEO) of Future Group, Rakesh Biyani, said: “The Indianfashion market has seen a surge in demand for sportswear in the lastcouple of years, but there is still a gap in demand and supply ofbranded sportswear in the country. Umbro will help us to fill in thisgap and provide our customers with choices in sportswear.”

MACY’S HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSINGAGREEMENT WITH LIDS SPORTS GROUP RELATING TOTHE OPENING OF NEW SPORTSWEAR CONCESSIONSINSIDE MACY’S STORES

Macy’s and Lids haveentered into an agreementrelating to the opening ofnew sportswear concessionsinside Macy’s stores

Macy’s7 has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids SportsGroup relating to the opening of new sportswear concessions8 insideMacy’s stores. Macy’s is a USA-based department store retailer whileLids Sports Group is a USA-based company which operates stores thatsell licensed sportswear.



The concessions sell licensedsportswear branded withthe logos of Americanprofessional and collegiatesports teams, allowingcustomers to buy sportswearbranded with the logos ofthe sports teams associatedwith the local area

The concessions are called “Locker Room by Lids” and sell licensedsportswear which is branded with the logos of American professionaland collegiate sports teams.

When the agreement was announced, the chief merchandising officerat Macy’s, Jeff Genette, explained that the concessions will providecustomers who live close to each Macy’s store with the opportunityto purchase sportswear branded with the logos of the sports teamsassociated with the local area.

The concessions are beingpiloted in 25 Macy’sstores, beginning inNovember 2013

The concessions are being piloted in 25 Macy’s stores, beginning inNovember 2013, but will be launched officially in another 175 Macy’sstores in spring 2014.

UNIFI HAS ENTERED INTO A MANUFACTURING ANDDISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH PALMETTOSYNTHETICS

Unifi has entered into amanufacturing anddistribution agreementwith Palmetto Syntheticsrelating to Unifi’s Reprevepolyester staple fibre

Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreementwith Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifi’s Repreve polyester staplefibre.

Unifi, based in the USA, is one of the world’s largest producers oftextured yarns while Palmetto Synthetics is a USA-based manufacturerof synthetic fibres.

Repreve is made frompolyester derived frompost-consumer PET bottles

Repreve polyester staple fibre is made entirely from polyester obtainedby recycling polymer from post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate(PET) bottles.

Palmetto will buy Reprevechips from Unifi and processthem into Repreve fibre

Under the terms of the agreement, Palmetto Synthetics will purchaseRepreve polyester chips from Unifi and process them into Reprevepolyester staple fibre.

The fibre has beenawarded CertifiedResponsible Source statusby SCS Global Services

The fibre has been awarded Certified Responsible Source status bySCS Global Services—an independent certification organisation basedin the USA.

Certified Responsible Source is awarded to polyester products whichhave been produced using environmentally friendly and sociallyresponsible manufacturing techniques.

There is increasingdemand from USmanufacturers for yarnsmade using recycledmaterials and which havebeen produced in the USA

According to the vice-president of Palmetto Synthetics, David Poston,there is increasing demand from US manufacturers for yarns which aremade using recycled materials and which have been produced in theUSA.

Palmetto Synthetics’ agreement with Unifi enables it to provide USmanufacturers with such yarns in staple fibre form.



NEW BRANDS

A NEW BRAND OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL CALLEDTOREN WILL BE LAUNCHED IN SPRING 2014

A new brand ofperformance apparel calledToren, founded by EthanWishnick, will be launchedin spring 2014

A new brand of performance apparel, called Toren, will be launchedin spring 2014.

Toren was founded and developed by an entrepreneur and outdoorenthusiast, Ethan Wishnick, who is based in New York City, USA.

Mr Wishnick developedthe brand after he foundthat most items ofperformance apparel onthe market had anunflattering fit and wereexpensive

Mr Wishnick decided to develop the brand after he found that mostitems of performance apparel available on the market had anunflattering fit and were expensive.

Items of Toren branded performance apparel, by contrast, will have atailored fit and the most expensive items will retail at no more thanUS$300.

The company will sellapparel at competitiveprices, and will make itavailable for purchasesolely via an online storeto minimise overhead costs

The company will sell the apparel at competitive prices and will makeit available for purchase solely via an online store in order tominimise its overhead costs.

In addition, having an online presence will enable the company tointeract with consumers and engage with them in real time.

It will encourage consumersto share their opinionsabout performance apparelvia the Toren website

In the months leading up to the launch of Toren, the company willactively encourage consumers to share their opinions and preferencesregarding performance apparel via its website, and via Toren’s blogand social media accounts.

Toren wants to knowwhich technical featuresare most important toconsumers and the coloursand styles they prefer

In particular, Toren is interested in gathering information as to thetechnical features which are most important to consumers and thecolours and styles they prefer. The company believes that it will beable to cater to the needs of consumers more fully by gathering thisinformation directly from them.

The first product to belaunched by Toren will be awaterproof jacket for use inextreme weather conditions

The first product to be launched by Toren will be a waterproof jacketfor use in extreme weather conditions. The jacket will be made usinga waterproof and breathable fabric produced by Toray, a Japan-basedmanufacturer of high performance textiles and synthetic fibres.

Following the launch,Toren will release otherproducts

Following the launch of this jacket, Toren plans to release a numberof other products—including an insulated hard shell jacket and awetsuit.


9 A profile of Jack Wolfskin starts on page 61 of this issue.


NEW STORES

JACK WOLFSKIN HAS OPENED ITS FIRST STORE INSOUTH AMERICA

Jack Wolfskin has opened itsfirst store in South America

Jack Wolfskin9, a Germany-based retailer of outdoor apparel, hasopened its first store in South America.

The store is located inChile and was opened inpartnership with Height-sport, a sportswear andoutdoor apparel retailer

The store is located in Lake Villarrica, Pucón, Chile, and was openedon July 13, 2013.

It was opened in partnership with Heightsport, a South Americanretailer of sportswear and outdoor apparel.

Latin America is popularwith outdoor enthusiasts,and the growing tourismindustry in Chile providesan ideal starting point forJack Wolfskin to bring itsproducts to the market

When the opening of the new store was announced, the chiefexecutive officer (CEO) of Jack Wolfskin, Michael Rupp, said: “LatinAmerica attracts countless outdoor enthusiasts from all over the worldevery year with its breathtaking and varied scenery, providing us withthe perfect opportunity to tap into an international audience. Inparticular, the growing tourism industry in Chile provides the idealstarting point to bring our innovative products to the South Americanmarket.”

Jack Wolfskin will opena second store in Chilein 2014

Meanwhile, Jack Wolfskin plans to open a second store inSouth America in October 2014. The store will be located in Santiago,Chile.

In the future, Heightsportplans to sell Jack Wolfskinproducts in its own storesand to open concessions indepartment stores

In the future, Heightsport plans to sell Jack Wolfskin products inits own Heightsport branded stores across South America and toopen Jack Wolfskin concessions inside department stores in theregion.

MATALAN HAS OPENED A NEW CHAIN OFSPORTSWEAR AND SPORTS EQUIPMENT STORES INTHE UK CALLED SPORTING PRO

Matalan has opened a newchain of sports stores calledSporting Pro in the UK

Matalan—a UK-based retailer of value fashion apparel—has openeda new chain of sportswear and sports equipment stores, calledSporting Pro, in the UK.

The company has openedan online store and openedits first five physical stores

The company opened an online Sporting Pro store at the end ofSeptember 2013, and opened its first five physical stores duringOctober 2013, in Colchester, Coleraine, Harlow, Stockton and Walsall.

A further five stores will beopened by the end of 2013

A further five stores will be opened by the end of 2013, inKnaresborough, Leeds, Sheffield, Stockport and Wakefield.


10 See also JJB Sports has entered into administration, “Business update”, Performance Apparel Markets,No 42, 3rd quarter 2012, page 65.11 A hypermarket is a very large retail store which sells a wide variety of products, including clothing,electrical appliances and groceries.


Matalan hopes to open 100stores by the end of 2018

In the future, Matalan hopes to increase the number of Sporting Prostores to at least 100 by the end of 2018.

Sporting Pro stores sellsportswear, footwear andsports equipment fromseveral leading sportsbrands

Sporting Pro stores sell an extensive range of sportswear, footwearand sports equipment from a number of leading sportsbrands—including Adidas, Asics, Babolat, Canterbury, Head, Kappa,New Balance, Nike, Raleigh, Reebok, Speedo, Under Armour andWilson.

In the physical stores,similar products aregrouped into sections

In the physical stores, products which are similar are groupedinto sections in order to make the stores easy for consumers tonavigate.

Also, the stores have afacility which can makecustom insoles forconsumers, and consumerscan have their runningtechniques assessed byfitness specialists

Also, the stores include a facility which produces custom insoles forconsumers by moulding the insoles to the shape of their feet.

In addition, the stores provide consumers with the opportunity to havetheir running techniques assessed. A fitness specialist watches theconsumer run on a treadmill, and then offers the consumer advice onhow to improve the way in which he or she moves.

Matalan saw a gap in theUK retail market for sucha sports store, and it aimsto fill a gap left by theclosure of JJB Sportsstores in 2012

Matalan decided to launch the new chain of Sporting Pro stores as itrecognised that there was a gap in the UK retail market for a sportsstore which was “imaginative” and “offered consumers somethingdifferent”.

Also, it aims to fill a gap left in the market following the closure ofJJB Sports10 stores in 2012.

SPORTS DIRECT IS IN DISCUSSIONS WITH TESCORELATING TO THE OPENING OF SPORTS DIRECTSTORES INSIDE TESCO HYPERMARKETS

Sports Direct is indiscussions with Tescorelating to the openingof Sports Direct storesinside three of Tesco’slargest hypermarkets

Sports Direct is in discussions with Tesco relating to the opening ofSports Direct stores inside three of Tesco’s largest hypermarkets11 inthe UK.

Sports Direct is a UK-based sporting goods retailer while Tesco is aUK-based supermarket retailer.

As the two retailers arenon-competing companies,they are both set to benefitfrom the arrangement

Sports Direct and Tesco would benefit mutually from such anarrangement as they are non-competing companies. In particular,Sports Direct would benefit by gaining access to a new group ofconsumers who would be exposed to Sports Direct products whileshopping at Tesco.



In particular, thearrangement would helpto maximise the efficiencyof Tesco’s hypermarketswhich have excess space

Tesco would benefit because the arrangement would help to maximisethe efficiency of its hypermarkets. The company has excess space inits hypermarkets—some of which cover an area of up to 120,000 ft2

(11,148 m2)—and has struggled to make use of it. Also, the popularityof online retailing has reduced the need for retailers to operate verylarge physical stores.

Recently, Tesco allocatedan area in one of itshypermarkets in the CzechRepublic to Sports Direct

Recently, Tesco allocated an area of approximately 30,000 ft2 in oneof its hypermarkets in the Czech Republic to Sports Direct. However,the two companies have declined to comment on the success of thisventure.

The two companies arecontinuing to discuss thenew strategy

Sports Direct and Tesco are continuing to discuss the newstrategy.

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Glossary: terms and definitions


Glossary: terms and definitionsAbsorbency under load: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabricwhich has been subject to a pressure of 0.25 lb/inch2 before wetting.

Acetate: a type of fibre chemically derived from cellulose.

Acquisition layer: an absorbent layer close to the coverstock in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper)through which fluid enters. Typically, the fluid is then transmitted to a distribution layer.

Antibacterial: resistance against bacteria.

Aramid: the generic name for a special group of synthetic fibres (aromatic polyamide) having high strength;examples are Kevlar from DuPont and Twaron from Teijin Twaron.

Artificial fibres: see cellulosic fibres.

Ballotini: small glass beads which are normally used in reflective paints but which can also be incorporated intofabrics.

Bicomponent fabric: a fabric with two layers.

Bicomponent fibre, bicomponent yarn: a fibre or yarn which has two different types of continuous filamentcomponents. The two components may, for example, be different polymers which shrink differently. (See alsomulticompartment fibres and yarns and multicomponent fibres and yarns.)

Bio-feedback: the measurement of a subject’s quantifiable bodily functions such as blood pressure, heart rate,skin temperature, sweat gland activity and muscle tension and the conveyance of those measurements to thesubject in real time to raise his awareness.

Bi-shrinkage yarn: a yarn containing two different types of filament, which have different shrinkages.

Bullet resistant material: a material which resists penetration from certain high velocity projectiles such asbullets from firearms. (See also bullet proof material.)

Bullet proof material: a material which provides complete protection against all types of high velocityprojectiles or against multiple hits in the same location from such projectiles.

Carbon nanotube: A nanotube made entirely of carbon. Carbon nanotubes are typically up to 100 times asstrong as steel.

Cellulosic fibres: fibres made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material.

Charmeuse: a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave constructed so that the warp threads cross over threeor more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish—which is lustrous andreflective—whereas the back has a dull finish. The fabric can be made of silk, or a synthetic substitute such aspolyester.

Chemiluminescence products: products which glow when one liquid chemical containing special fluorescersinteracts with another (an activator).

Circular jersey: fabric produced on circular knitting machines. (See also circular knitting, weft knitting.)



Circular knitting: a fabric production technique in which fabric is knitted in the form of a tube. Usually, thisis subsequently slit and finished as open width fabric. However, in the case of smaller width machines, thecircular knitting process is used to make body width tubes which need not be slit, thus avoiding the need for aseam and thereby increasing wearer comfort. These machines can be further modified to knit body blanks whichincorporate some shaping and are separated by a draw-thread.

Clo value: the amount of insulation required to keep a resting subject with a metabolism of 50 kcal/metre2/hourcomfortable for an indefinite period of time at a temperature of 21°C (70°F).

CM: cut and make. (See also CMT.)

CMT: cut, make and trim. A system whereby a manufacturer produces garments for a customer by cutting fabricprovided by the customer and sewing the cut fabric into garments in accordance with the customer’sspecification. In general, companies operating on a CMT basis do not become involved in the design of thegarment but are merely concerned with its manufacture.

Colourway: one of several different combinations of colours in which a given pattern is printed on items suchas fabrics and wallpapers.

Composite (fabric): a fabric structure, usually nonwoven, comprising several layers.

Composite (fibre reinforced): see fibre reinforced composite.

Comonomer: one of the compounds which constitute a copolymer.

Conjugate fibres and yarns: see bicomponent fibres and yarns.

Continuous filament: see filament.

Copolymer: a polymer in which there are two or more repeat units.

Core-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres. A core-spun yarncombines the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres which formthe surface.

Core-twisted yarn: a yarn produced by combining one fibre or filament with another during a twistingprocess.

Count: a measure of linear density. (See also decitex, denier, tex.)

Covered yarn: a yarn made by feeding one yarn through one or more revolving spindles carrying the other(wrapping) yarn. Covered yarn may also be produced using air-jet technology.

Cover factor (knitted fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a knitted fabric iscovered by yarn. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitting.

Cover factor (woven fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered byone set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft coverfactor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square rootof the cotton yarn count.



Cradle to cradle: a term, adapted from the expression “cradle to grave”, which is used to describe a model inwhich processes are sustainable and considerate of life in general. In one cradle to cradle model, all materialsused in industrial or commercial processes—such as metals, fibres and dyes—are seen to fall into one of twocategories, namely technical nutrients and biological nutrients. Technical nutrients are non-toxic, non-harmfulsynthetic materials which have no negative effects on the natural environment, and can be used over and overagain without losing their integrity or quality rather than being “downcycled” into lesser products that ultimatelybecome waste. Biological nutrients are organic materials which, once used, can be disposed of in any naturalenvironment and decompose into the soil, thereby providing food for small life forms without affecting thenatural environment.

Decitex: a unit of the tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn.

Decitex per filament (dpf): the average decitex of each filament in a multifilament yarn.

Dendrimer: a synthetic polymer with a tree-like branching structure.

Denier: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn.

Disperse dye: a substantially water-insoluble dye which has substantivity for one or more hydrophobic fibresand is usually applied from a fine aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes are used mainly to dye polyester but theycan also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibres.

Distribution layer: a layer in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper) which distributes fluid to asuperabsorbent and/or fluff pulp material, where it is absorbed.

Dobby: a mechanism for controlling the vertical position of heald shafts on a loom, so as to selectively raisesome warp threads while leaving others depressed. The use of a dobby facilitates the weaving of a fabric whichhas a more complex structure than that achievable by using cams and tappets to raise and lower heald shafts.However, it can not offer weaves as complex as those obtained by using a jacquard mechanism.

Dobby weave: a type of weave produced on a loom equipped with a dobby.

Dope: see spinning solution.

Dope dyeing: a method of dyeing in which a dye is mixed with a polymer before the polymer is extrudedthrough fine holes in a spinneret to form fibres and yarns. (See also mass coloration.)

Dpf: see decitex per filament.

Drape: a cover sheet.

Dry spinning: in the dry spinning process, polymer is dissolved in a solvent before being spun into warm airwhere the solvent evaporates. This leaves the fibrous polymer ready for drawing.

Dry spun: a fibre or filament produced by the dry spinning process.

Dtex: see decitex.

Durable water repellent finish: a finish which bonds to the fibres of a textile without filling the spaces betweenthose fibres. The finish does not coat the surface of the textile and therefore does not impair breathability.

DWR: see durable water repellent finish.



Elastane, elastomeric: a fibre, often made of polyurethane, possessing inherent stretch properties (also knownas spandex, especially in the USA).

Elastolefin: a fibre composed of at least 95% (by mass) of macromolecules—partially cross-linked—made upof ethylene and at least one other olefin. When it is stretched to one and a half times its original length andreleased, the fibre recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length.

Elastomer: a polymer which has a high extensibility, together with rapid and substantially complete elasticrecovery (most fibres formed from elastomers have breaking elongations in excess of 100%).

End (in weaving): an individual warp yarn.

Fabric: a manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns which has substantial surface area in relation to itsthickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength.

False-twist texturing: a process in which a single filament yarn is twisted, set and untwisted. When yarns madefrom thermoplastic materials are heat-set in a twisted condition, the deformation of the filaments is “memorised”and the yarn is given greater bulk.

FDY: fully drawn yarn.

Ferrofluid: a fluid which becomes highly polarised in the presence of a magnetic field.

Fibre: a material used to make textiles which is flexible, fine, and has a high ratio of length to thickness.

Fibre reinforced composite (FRC): a product formed by intimately combining two or more discrete physicalphases—usually a solid matrix, such as a resin, and a fibrous reinforcing component.

Filament: a fibre of indefinite length.

Filamentation: breakage of filaments, resulting in the creation of a fibrous or hairy appearance on the surfaceof a yarn package or fabric.

Fill: see weft.

Flame resistant: a term used to describe fibres, yarns or fabrics which resist burning.

Flame retardant: a substance added or a treatment applied to a material in order to suppress, significantlyreduce or delay the propagation of flame.

Fleece (fabric): pile or napped fabric with a deep, soft, woolly-style surface.

Fleece (garment): outerwear jacket made from fleece fabric.

Fluorescent material: a material which absorbs certain wavelengths of light and emits or reflects wavelengthsthat are longer than those which are absorbed.

Four-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover vertically, horizontally, and from any angle (see alsotwo-way stretch).

FOY: fully oriented yarn.

FR: see flame retardant.



Free swell absorbency: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric.

Gpd (g/denier): a unit of force divided by the weight per unit length of a fibre, yarn or rope.

Granulation: the process of forming new tissues.

Hard shell: a hard shell is an outerwear garment which protects the wearer from the elements. It is typicallymade from a tough, abrasion-resistant material such as nylon. (See also soft shell.)

High loft: textiles which are three dimensional, being thick but very light. The term is also applied to the fillingsused in outdoor clothing to denote those which retain a large volume of still air.

Hydroentanglement: see spunlacing.

Hydrophilic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to mix with or to be wetted by water.

Hydrophobic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to repel or not to be wetted by water.

Hydrostatic head: hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of theheight of an equivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of thecolumn, it is possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which canwithstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water exceedsthis value.

Hygroscopic: a term used to describe a substance which attracts moisture from the atmosphere.

Imagewear: a term used to describe apparel which is used to project a corporate identity. Examples includeworkwear, career wear and uniforms.

Industrial textiles: a category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated intofinal products.

Islands-in-the-sea: a type of bicomponent yarn in which one component polymer is formed, during extrusion,as longitudinal strands within the matrix of a second polymer.

ISPO: International Trade Fair for Sports Equipment & Fashion, held in Munich, Germany.

KPa (kiloPascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1,000 Newtons applied, uniformly distributed, over anarea of 1 m2. Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure; 1 kPa = 6.89 lbf/inch2.

Laminate: a fabric which comprises two or more layers bonded together. Many waterproof breathable fabricsare made by laminating a textile to a film or a membrane.

Layering: layering involves the use of: a comfort or base layer; an insulation layer; and a protection layer. Thebase layer comprises clothing worn next to the skin. Perspiration drying on the skin can cause chilling. However,this effect can be minimised by wearing a base layer which wicks moisture away from the skin. The insulationlayer is the middle layer in the system and enables the wearer to regulate his or her body temperature by puttingon or taking off garments as necessary. Insulation layer garments should be lightweight and warm, and shoulddry quickly in order to retain body heat. They should also let perspiration vapour escape from the comfort layerunderneath, and retain their insulating properties even when wet. The protection layer is an outer layer ofwaterproof and windproof fabric. It should be highly breathable, so as to allow perspiration vapour to escapeeasily from the comfort layer and the insulation layer.



Linear density: the weight per unit length of a yarn or fibre. Units of linear density include decitex, denierand tex.

LOY: low orientation yarn.

Lycra: brand name used by DuPont for its spandex or elastane fibre.

Lyocell: the generic name given to a new family of cellulosic fibres and yarns that have been produced bysolvent spinning. The process is widely regarded as being environmentally friendly, and the product offers anumber of advantages over traditional cellulosic fibres.

Man-in-Simulant Test (MIST): a test which determines whether materials that are breathable can be used toreduce heat stress to emergency responders—such as law enforcement personnel—who might use theseensembles over a longer duration in low challenge exposures and non-IDLH (immediately dangerous to life andhealth) atmospheres.

Man-made fibres: fibres which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature. The term man-made fibresis also used to refer to man-made filament yarns.

Man-made filaments: filaments which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature.

Mass coloration: a method of colouring man-made fibres by incorporating a dye or colorant in the spinningsolution or melt before extrusion into filaments. Also known as dope dyeing.

Mercerisation: a treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are swollen and stretched toincrease lustre in the finished product.

Microfibre: a fibre or filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercial fibresor filaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfibres by their producers. (See also microfilament.)

Microfilament: a continuous filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercialfilaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfilaments by their producers. (See also microfibre.)

Micron (micrometre): one millionth of a metre (10-6 metres).

Micro-organisms: living organisms of microscopic size such as bacteria or fungi which produce infection anddisease.

Microyarn: a yarn consisting of several microfilaments.

Modal: a type of cellulosic fibre having improved strength and modulus when wet.

Modulus: a measure of the ability of a fibre to resist extension. It is the ratio between the stress (or load)applied on the fibre to the elongation (strain) resulting from the application of that stress.

Moisture management (in textiles and garments): the process by which moisture is moved away from the skinand dispersed through a fabric to its outer surface, from where moisture can evaporate, leaving both the skin andgarment dry.

Moisture regain: the percentage of moisture in a textile material brought into equilibrium with a standardatmosphere after partial drying, calculated as a percentage of the moisture-free weight.

Monofilament yarn: a yarn consisting of a single filament.



Monolithic (membrane): continuous polymer layer.

mPa (megapascal): the pressure exerted by a force of 1 Newton applied over an area of 1 mm2.

Multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn: fibre or yarn formed from multicomponent (orconjugate) fibres by separately extruding fibres of different polymers. While still in the molten state, the fibresare combined and blown with fluid jets. This produces vortices within the fibre. As the fibre is drawn, thevortices can, under the right conditions, be converted to hollow structures running along the length of the fibre.The compartments so formed may lie side by side within the fibre or contained within it in an annular structure.

Multicomponent fibre, multicomponent yarn: a yarn which has two or more different continuous filamentcomponents. (See also multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn and bicomponent fibre,bicomponent yarn.)

Multifilament yarn: a yarn made up of more than one filament.

Nanometre: one billionth of a metre (10-9 metres).

Nanotechnology: research and technology development at the atomic, molecular or macromolecular levels (inthe 1-100 nanometre range) aimed at creating and using materials which have novel properties and functions.

Nanotube: a tube-like structure of sub-microscopic size.

Nanowire: a wire measuring one nanometre (10-9 metres or one billionth of a metre) in diameter.

Nip: a line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces which move so as to compressand/or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.

Nonwoven: (according to ISO 9092:1988) a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomlyorientated fibres, bonded by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper and products which arewoven, knitted, tufted, stitchbonded incorporating binding yarns or filaments, or felted by wet-milling, whetheror not additionally needled.

Novoloid: a manufactured fibre which contains at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked novolac (phenolicresin).

Nylon: another word for polyamide.

Oleophilic: a propensity to absorb oil.

Pa (Pascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1 Newton applied, uniformly distributed, over an area of 1 m2.Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure.

Padding (finishing): the impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or paste followed by squeezing—usually bypassing the substrate through a nip—to leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate.

Partially oriented yarn: a continuous synthetic filament made by extruding a polymer so that a substantialdegree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but so that further substantial molecularorientation is still possible. The resulting yarn will usually have to be drawn in a subsequent process in orderto orient the molecular structure fully and optimise the yarn’s tensile properties.

PBI: polybenzimidazole, a highly flame resistant fibre with low shrinkage properties when exposed to flame.

PBT: polybutylterephthalate, a type of polyester fibre used to provide fabrics with durable stretch properties.



PET: polyethylene terephthalate, the most common form of polyester.

Photovoltaic technology: a technology used to convert sunlight directly into electricity.

Pick: a single weft thread in a woven fabric.

Pill, pilling: the entangling of fibres during washing, dry cleaning, testing or in wear to form balls or pills whichstand proud of the surface of a fabric and which are of such density that light will not pass through them (sothat they cast a shadow).

PLA: polylactic acid, a synthetic polymer formed from plant-based material and used as the starting materialfor a new range of melt spun synthetic fibres, including Ingeo from Cargill Dow.

Polyamide: another word for nylon.

Polylactic acid: see PLA.

Polymer: a long molecule made up from many smaller repeat molecules; the following polymers are the mainones used to make synthetic fibres: polyacrylic; polyamide (nylon); polyester; polypropylene; and polyurethane.

Polymerisation: the process of linking small chemical units together to form larger molecules.

Powered exoskeleton: a powered mobile machine which consists primarily of a skeleton-like framework wornby a person together with a power supply which supplies at least part of the activation energy required for limbmovement.

POY: see partially oriented yarn.

Prepolymer: a polymer of relatively low molecular weight—usually intermediate between that of the monomerand the final polymer or resin—which may be mixed with compounding additives and which is capable of beinghardened by further polymerisation during or after a forming process.

Push-pull fabrics: bicomponent fabrics composed of a non-absorbent hydrophobic material, usually polyester,on the inside (worn next to the skin) and an absorbent hydrophilic material, usually nylon, on the outside.

Raschel: a two-needle warp knitting system.

Rayon: a term used to describe fibres made from regenerated cellulose. (See also viscose, modal and acetate.)

Reaction spinning: one of three types of production process used to make elastane (the other two being dryspinning and wet spinning) in which fibres are formed through a chemical reaction, and polymerisation andformation of filaments occur simultaneously as the prepolymer is extruded in a reagent bath.

Retention: the weight of fluid remaining after a freely swollen fibre, yarn or fabric is subjected to a pressureof 0.5 lb/inch2.

Rip stop: a lightweight woven fabric containing corded yarns spaced at regular intervals—in both the warp andthe weft—which form squares on the surface of the fabric in order to prevent a tear in the fabric from spreading.Common applications include parachutes, outerwear and activewear.

Sanforizing: a controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark andcan be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage.



Scouring: the treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteinsand other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities.

Shape memory polymers (SMPs): chemical compounds which have one form at a certain temperature, whichcan be given a different shape when subjected to a stimulus such as heat, and which, under certain conditions,can return to their original “memorised” form. Current textile research is focused on using shape memorypolymers to create “smart” fabrics with protective and moisture management capabilities.

Shed (weaving): an opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others tofacilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine.

Shedding: a motion in weaving whereby a shed is created to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weftcarrying device across the weaving machine.

Soft shell: a soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments intraditional layering systems. It is soft to the touch, resistant to wind and water, and highly breathable. (See alsohard shell.)

Spandex: the generic name used in the USA to denote elastane fibre.

Spinneret: a nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or meltis extruded during fibre manufacture.

Spinning solution: a solution of fibre-forming polymer ready for extrusion through a spinneret.

Sputtered: a material which has been subjected to sputtering.

Sputtering: a process in which atoms, ions and molecules are ejected from the surface of a target material whenit is irradiated by an ion beam. One application of sputtering is to exploit the conditions in which the ejectedparticles re-form on another substrate as a thin film or coating. For instance, thin metallic films are often appliedin this way to electrically non-conductive substrates to give them conductive properties.

Staple fibres (man-made): man-made fibres of predetermined short lengths, usually prepared by cutting orbreaking filaments of the material into lengths suitable for their intended processing route.

Sublimation: a process in which a substance changes directly from a solid to a gas when it is heated, withoutpassing through the liquid state.

Synthetic fibres: man-made fibres made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, in contrast tofibres made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose. The term synthetic fibres is also used to referto synthetic filaments.

Synthetic filaments: man-made filaments made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, incontrast to filaments made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose.

Tactical vest: a bullet resistant vest worn by military personnel in combat environments. Its ability to resist theimpact of bullets lies in the presence of hard plates which are strategically placed in the vest to prevent thewearer from injury.

Technical textiles: textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance andfunctional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. End uses include aerospace,industrial, marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles, and geotextiles.



Tenacity: a unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breakingforce by the linear density.

Tencel: a brand name used by Lenzing for a cellulosic fibre first commercialised in the late 1990s by Courtauldsand generically known as lyocell. Tencel is stronger than viscose cellulosic fibre and is characterised by itssoftness and drape.

Tensile strength (fibre): the longitudinal stress which can be applied to a fibre before it breaks.

Tex: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn.

Textured yarn: a continuous filament yarn which has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loopsor other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.

Texturing: a process during which a textured yarn is produced.

Thermoplastic yarns: yarns which are deformable by applying heat and pressure without any accompanyingchange, and in which the deformation is reversible.

Thermoregulation: regulation of body temperature.

Ton: (in this publication) 1,000 kilograms.

Tow: the name given to an untwisted assembly of a large number of filaments; tows are cut up to producestaple fibres.

Tricot, warp knitted: a warp knitted fabric knitted with two full sets of warp threads, each set making a1 and 1 lapping movement but in opposite directions. Additionally the term is now used generically to cover alltypes of warp knitted fabric made on tricot warp knitting machines.

Two-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover both vertically and horizontally. (See also four-way stretch.)

Ultraviolet: see UV.

UPF: ultraviolet protection factor.

UV: ultraviolet.

UVA: UVA (alpha) is long-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which penetrates deep into the skin. UVA radiationranges from 315 to 400 nanometres (nm) in wavelength, and is known to cause skin cancer, skin blotching,wrinkles and premature ageing of the skin.

UVB: UVB (beta) is short-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which ranges from 280 nm to 315 nm in wavelength.UVB radiation is much stronger than UVA radiation, and affects mainly outer skin layers. It is the most commoncause of sunburn, but it also contributes to premature ageing of the skin, wrinkles and skin cancer.

Viscose: the generic name for a type of cellulosic fibre obtained from wood cellulose.

Warp: yarns which are incorporated along the length of a fabric.

Warp knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric from a warp in which loops made from each warp threadare formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Warp knitting is characterised by the fact that each warpthread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. (See also weft knitting.)



Weaving: the process of producing fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns.

Web: a sheet of fibres produced by a carding machine (carded web) or combing machine (combed web).

Weft: yarns which are incorporated across the width of a fabric.

Weft knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric in which the loops made by each weft thread are formedsubstantially across the width of the fabric. Weft knitting is characterised by the fact that each weft thread is fedmore or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.

Wet spinning: in the wet spinning process, the polymer solution (also known as “dope”) is spun into a spin bathcontaining a liquid chosen for its ability to extract the solvent from the dope.

Wet spun: a fibre or filament produced by the wet spinning process.

Wicking: a process whereby a textile material transports moisture away from a surface such as the skin.

Wrapped yarn: see wrap-spun yarn.

Wrap-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of a core wrapped with a binder.

Yarn: a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibres and/or filaments withor without twist.

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 Index to Performance Apparel Markets


Index to Performance ApparelMarketsNo 1, 2nd quarter 2002Fast track: a new publication for a rapidly expandingindustry

Product developments and innovationsMoisture management fabricsProfile of Wellman: fibres for moisture managementBusiness updateNo 2, 3rd quarter 2002Fast track: sportswear provides inspiration for a widerange of apparel—from uniforms and workwear to highfashion

Product developments and innovationsStretch fibres and fabricsProfile of RadiciSpandex: a specialist in elastane fibresBusiness updateNo 3, 4th quarter 2002Fast track: performance apparel for winter 2002/03Product developments and innovationsHigh strength fibres and fabricsProfile of Teijin Twaron: a global leader in aramid fibreBusiness updateNo 4, 1st quarter 2003Fast track: brand awarenessProduct developments and innovationsTemperature control fabricsProfile of The North Face: a leader in outdoor performanceapparel

Business updateNo 5, 2nd quarter 2003Fast track: ISPOProduct developments and innovationsWaterproof breathable fabricsProfile of Marmot: a leader in performance outerwearBusiness updateNo 6, 3rd quarter 2003Fast track: BiomimicryProduct developments and innovationsFlame resistant fibres and fabricsProfile of Sparco: a leader in professional motorracing apparel

Business updateNo 7, 4th quarter 2003Fast track: tracking the US sports apparel industryProduct developments and innovationsAntimicrobial fibres and fabricsProfile of Columbia Sportswear: a leader in outdoor apparelBusiness updateNo 8, 1st quarter 2004Fast track: the games of the XXVIII OlympiadProduct developments and innovationsHigh visibility apparel: technology for safety, comfort andstyle

Profile of Alexandra: a leader in the supply of workwearBusiness update

No 9, 2nd quarter 2004Fast track: ISPO Summer 2004Product developments and innovationsUV protective fibres and fabrics: function and fashion fora health-conscious age

Profile of L-Fashion Group: a sportswear and outdoorclothing specialist

Business updateNo 10, 3rd quarter 2004Fast track: tracking the sporting goods industry in ChinaProduct developments and innovationsPerformance swimwear: high-tech swimsuits create wavesProfile of Stretchtex International Fabrics: a leader inswimwear fabrics

Business updateNo 11, 4th quarter 2004Fast track: Adidas-Salomon cashes in on growing popularityof soccer

Product developments and innovationsStain protective apparel: consumers splash out on easy-careclothing

Profile of Ashworth: a supplier of golf-inspired apparelBusiness updateNo 12, 1st quarter 2005Fast track: runaway successProduct developments and innovationsMicroencapsulation: for enhanced textile performanceProfile of Cognis: a leader in speciality textiletreatments

Business updateNo 13, 2nd quarter 2005Fast track: Innovations at Avantex and Techtextil 2005Product developments and innovationsSmart and interactive textilesProfile of Nano-tex: a leader in nanotechnology-basedtextile treatments

Business updateNo 14, 3rd quarter 2005Fast track: tracking the leading players in sporting goodsProduct developments and innovationsAnti-static technology in performance apparelProfile of W L Gore: a leader in performance outerwearfabrics

Business updateNo 15, 4th quarter 2005Fast track: tracking the counterfeit industryProduct developments and innovationsPerformance apparel for skiing and snowboarding:making a more comfortable and safer experience

Profile of Spyder Active Sports: a leader in performanceski wear

Business update



No 16, 1st quarter 2006Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel:earth first, profits second

Product developments and innovationsSeamless knitting and stitch-free seaming technologies inperformance apparel

Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology forstitch-free apparel

Business updateNo 17, 2nd quarter 2006Fast track: tracking the market for personal protectiveequipment

Product developments and innovationsClothing at work: providing a better imageProfile of Kwintet: a leading supplier of workwearBusiness updateNo 18, 3rd quarter 2006Fast track: targeting womenProduct developments and innovationsSurfwear and surf-inspired clothingBillabong International: a leading supplier of surfwearBusiness updateNo 19, 4th quarter 2006Fast track: tracking the sportswear industry in the UKProduct developments and innovationsFlame resistant fibres and fabricsLion Apparel: a leading supplier of protective apparel forfirefighters

Business updateNo 20, 1st quarter 2007Fast track: ISPO Winter 2007—a platform for innovationProduct developments and innovationsMoisture management fabricsProfile of Ronhill Sports: a leading UK supplier of runningapparel

Business updateNo 21, 2nd quarter 2007Fast track: International Active Textiles Symposium2007—a new event for a competitive market

Product developments and innovationsTemperature control fabricsProfile of Burton Snowboards: the global market leader insnowboarding equipment

Business updateNo 22, 3rd quarter 2007Fast track: Avantex—an international forum for innovativetextiles for apparel

Product developments and innovationsFibres and fabrics for performance footwearProfile of Asics Corporation: a leading producer of highperformance footwear

Business updateNo 23, 4th quarter 2007Fast track: sports wear or fashion wear? A blurring of theboundaries

Product developments and innovationsCompression garments for enhanced performanceProfile of Under Armour: a leader in compressionperformance apparel

Business update

No 24, 1st quarter 2008Fast track: the Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show 2008Product developments and innovationsWaterproof breathable fabrics: new technologies for greatercomfort

Profile of Berghaus: a performance apparel producerexpanding into fashionable conventional clothing

Business updateNo 25, 2nd quarter 2008Fast track: new uses for wearable health monitoringtechnology

Product developments and innovationsFleece fabrics and garments: lightweight warmth for betterperformance

Profile of Lowe Alpine: a pioneer in the outdoor leisuremarket

Business updateNo 26, 3rd quarter 2008Fast track: OutDoor 2008Product developments and innovationsDevelopments in military clothingProfile of TenCate: a supplier of high-tech fabrics formilitary wear

Business updateNo 27, 4th quarter 2008Fast track: gas plasma treatments for water repellenttechnology

Product developments and innovationsAnti-odour clothing: bringing fresh appeal to theperformance apparel market

Profile of Delta Galil: a global innovator in underwear,socks and seamless apparel

Business updateNo 28, 1st quarter 2009Fast track: sports brands strive for “greener” supply chainsProduct developments and innovationsMedical clothing: safeguarding health and well-beingProfile of Medelita: an innovator in medical uniformsBusiness updateNo 29, 2nd quarter 2009Fast track: innovations at Techtextil 2009Product developments and innovationsUV protective clothing: key to reducing skin damageProfile of Coolibar: a leader in UV protective clothingBusiness updateNo 30, 3rd quarter 2009Fast track: what China can learn from the Lycra storyProduct developments and innovationsNew developments in performance swimwearProfile of Carvico: a global leader in warp knitted stretchfabrics

Business updateNo 31, 4th quarter 2009Fast track: message from ISPO 2010—sports brandsshould pursue the older generation

Product developments and innovationsSustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demandsof an eco-conscious marketplace

Profile of Anvil Knitwear: an environmentally responsiblesupplier

Business update



No 32, 1st quarter 2010Fast track: muscle power—the benefits of compressionapparel

Product developments and innovationsPersonal protective clothing: ensuring worker safetyProfile of Cosalt: a European provider of protective apparelwith global ambitions

Business updateNo 33, 2nd quarter 2010Fast track: US retail sales in six performance apparel sectorsProduct developments and innovationsSnow sports apparel: reaching new heights of comfort andprotection

Profile of Helly Hansen: a pioneer in performanceouterwear

Business updateNo 34, 3rd quarter 2010Fast track: Taiwan leads Asia in sustainable highperformance fibres and fabrics for performance apparel

Product developments and innovationsStain protection in performance apparel: providing cleansolutions

Profile of Eddie Bauer: a long-established outdooroutfitter

Business updateNo 35, 4th quarter 2010Fast track: should questions about the safety of PTFE worrythe performance apparel industry?

Product developments and innovationsNanotechnology in performance apparel: using small-scalematerials to create big opportunities

Profile of Schoeller Group: a creative producer of smart andsustainable functional fabrics

Business updateNo 36, 1st quarter 2011Fast track: how apparel is recording track times, distances,calories, location and pictures

Product developments and innovationsFlame resistant fibres and fabricsProfile of Globe Manufacturing Company: inventor of thefirefighter suit

Business updateNo 37, 2nd quarter 2011Fast track: should apparel brands be held responsible forpollution caused by their suppliers?

Product developments and innovationsCosmetotextiles: wearable body careProfile of Laboratoire Skin’Up: a pioneer incosmetotextiles

Business updateNo 38, 3rd quarter 2011Fast track: innovations at ITMAProduct developments and innovationsStretch fibres and fabrics: reaching new levels of comfortProfile of Jersey Lomellina: a global leader in circularknitted stretch fabrics

Business update

No 39, 4th quarter 2011Fast track: performance apparel for the active oldergeneration

Product developments and innovationsSmart textiles and wearable technology: opportunities forlife enhancement and health management

Profile of WarmX: an innovative supplier of wearabletechnology

Business updateNo 40, 1st quarter 2012Fast track: advances in insulation materials for performanceapparel

Product developments and innovationsHigh visibility apparel: providing protection, comfort andstyle

Profile of UniFirst: a leader in the uniform and textileservices industry

Business updateNo 41, 2nd quarter 2012Fast track: Adidas and Nike battle for supremacy in footballand the Olympic Games

Product developments and innovationsSummer sportswear: providing cool comfortProfile of Mizuno: a world-renowned sports brandBusiness updateNo 42, 3rd quarter 2012Fast track: focus on insect repellent and heated garmentsat OutDoor 2012

Product developments and innovationsChemical protective clothing: providing a life-criticalbarrier

Profile of Lakeland Industries: an innovator in chemicalprotective clothing

Business updateNo 43, 4th quarter 2012Fast track: how environmentally sustainable is the outdoorapparel industry?

Product developments and innovationsWater sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloatProfile of Musto: a premium nautical apparel brandBusiness updateNo 44, 1st quarter 2013Fast track: is there a future for smart fabrics in sportsmonitoring?

Product developments and innovationsTemperature control fabrics: optimising wearer comfortProfile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate socialresponsibility (CSR)

Business updateNo 45, 2nd quarter 2013Fast track: China’s leading sportswear companies facechallenges after the heady days of the Beijing 2008Olympic Games

Product developments and innovationsIndoor sportswear and fitness apparelProfile of Lululemon Athletica: a specialist in stylishfitness apparel

Business update



No 46, 3rd quarter 2013Fast track: protecting sports participants from headinjuries

Product developments and innovationsWaterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort isdriving innovation

Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparelbrand

Business update

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Technical Textile MarketsBusiness and market analysis of worldwide trends in fibres, nonwovens, technical textiles and functional apparel

High performance fibres and technical textiles represent two of the fastergrowing sectors of the global textile industry. Attracted by strong growthrates, many producers of apparel textiles are moving over to technicaltextiles as competition from low cost imports increases.

Technical textiles, based on high technology, are more "import-proof" thanconventional textiles and apparel. Also, there are great opportunities for producers togain a competitive edge and to earn higher margins through advanced technology.

Traditional applications for high performance fibres and technical textiles includeconveyor belts, tarpaulins, tyre cords and ropes. Producers are also manufacturinghigh-tech products for an increasingly wide range of industrial end uses.

However, as the markets for fashion and sports clothing havestarted to merge, high performance fibres and technical textilesare also meeting the demand for new materials created bychanges in consumer "lifestyle". Furthermore, as leisure timeincreases, so does the demand for specialist sports goods.

Published four times a year, Technical Textile Markets provides easily accessibleinformation, designed to keep you informed about changes and developments in theman-made fibre, technical textile, and performance apparel industries. Much of theinformation and data published in Technical Textile Markets is difficult orimpossible to obtain elsewhere, and much could take your researchers months togather, collate and analyse.

A subscription to Technical Textile Markets will provideyou with:• Profiles of fibre and technical textile companies around the world – their

strengths and weaknesses; how they operate; which markets they are exploring;their future plans for development

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• Regular reports on the world’s leading nonwovens companies

• Profiles of the fibre and technical textile industries in different countries

• Analyses of developments in the nonwovens industry, in the man-made fibreindustry, and in a wide range of new and traditional end use markets

• Regular statistical reports, including data not published elsewhere

• A quarterly Global News Round-Up, including business news, details ofmergers and acquisitions and investments, and financial results

• Editorial comment on the key issues facing the industry

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• Clearly presented tables, charts and diagrams

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Global Apparel MarketsFour times a year, Global Apparel Markets provides essential and up-to-date analysis and insight into the global apparel industry. Reportscontain updates on retail trends, product developments, trade policy, company and country profiles, and business news – to keep retailers,manufacturers and investors informed of the facts and figures which affect their business.

Each issue contains:

• an editorial feature which contains insight and authoritative analysis from ourteam of experts;

• a detailed research-based report or company profile covering information onsourcing, developments in technology, colour and/or fabric trends, market sectors suchas discount retailing, or other issues which affect companies in the apparel industry;

• a round-up of industry product developments and innovations;

• a feature on trade and trade policy;

• advice on strategy; and

• business news.

Research-based reports planned for the first year include the following:

• Developments in apparel technology;

• Discount clothing retailing;

• Corporate social responsibility;

• Mass customisation and fit;

• Radio frequency identification;

• Sourcing apparel from South and South-East Asia;

• Strategies of clothing manufacturers in the post-quota era;

• The effect of online shopping and the Internet on the apparel industry; and

• Trends in apparel fabrics: a review of key fabric fairs in Europe and Asia.

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The round-up of industry product developments andinnovations includes information on: design; fabric treatments andfinishes; "green" issues; machinery; new fibres for apparel fabrics;new manufacturing processes; smart fabric applications; and yarnsand fabrics for apparel.

The feature on trade and trade policy provides an overview ofglobal trade in the main consumer markets, details of recent tradeagreements in selected regions, and insight and statistical data.

The strategy report provides "food for thought". It includes opinionsbased on first-hand interviews with industry experts and consultantswho specialise in strategies employed in the global apparel industry.

The round-up of business news includes industry specific newsabout: acquisitions, divestments and mergers; conferences andexhibitions; financial results of leading companies; corporate socialresponsibility; investments; joint ventures, cooperation, licensing anddistribution agreements; markets; patents and trademark disputes; andcelebrity promotions.

Each issue also contains an extensive glossary of terms and a list of useful contact details.

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Textile Outlook Internationala business intelligence service for the world’s senior textile and apparel executives

Six times a year, Textile Outlook International provides up to200 pages of expert comment and analysis, including: regularupdates on world textile and apparel trade and production trends;profiles of textile and apparel companies and countries around theworld; business opportunities in the global market place; politicalimplications and information on trade blocs, tariffs and quotas;and innovations and technological developments in the industry.

A subscription to Textile Outlook International offers you:

• Profiles of textile and apparel companies around the world - their strengths and weaknesses; how they operate; which markets they are exploring; their future plans for development; and which opportunities they could be exploiting

• Analysis of rapidly growing developments in the worlds major producing andconsuming regions; production and offshore sourcing opportunities in countrieswhere production costs remain low; and country comparisons and reviews

• Reports on new technological developments - with clear, authoritativecomments on their economic and commercial significance

• Market information and forecasts - analysis of consumer markets, textiledevelopments, and apparel trends from the viewpoint of merchants and retailers

• Twice yearly updates of world trade and production trends - who the majorproducers and consumers are, who they are likely to be in five years time, theircompetitive strategies and international cost comparisons

• Reports and comments on trade regulation - tariffs, quotas, governmentcontrols and the impact of world politics on the industry

What makes Textile Outlook Internationalindispensable?Executives in the worldwide textile and apparel industries know that it is simply not possible to view developments in one region in isolation from those in another.Textile Outlook International provides a truly independent and worldwideperspective.

Drawing on its worldwide network of expert contributors, Textile OutlookInternational supports your decision making with effective research, analysis and forecasts.

Where will the major markets be in the future?

What products will they be demanding?

Who will be your future competitors?

Which key developments will affect your business?

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Documents

Performance_Apparel_Markets_Sample.pdf