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Jo’burg North Chapter
From the Presidents Perch – June 2019.
Well, the long awaited, much talked about Ulysses 2019 Rally is over and I had the next few weeks planned too. A year ago I had been invited to join a few friends on a 3 week biking adventure through Italy, and the day of departure was looming fast.I use the word “looming” with trepidation, because with only a few weeks before departure the route was still very vague but the flights had been booked, bikes hired and paid for and our visas had been approved (with conditions).
So, after the euphoria and satisfaction that the National Rally produced, the phenominal teamwork of UJN and the support of our sponsors, I had but 2 weeks before departure.June.I’d arranged to visit my eldest brother and his family in the UK for 8 days before meeting my 3 friends at Heathrow, and, as this was my first visit to Britain was a great “Introduction to the Adventure”.
I left OR Tambo Airport a few hours after the first screening of The Bike Show on TV that had Donovan, Simon and I discussing our recent succesful Rally, and Ulysses in South Africa. I must admit I felt a bit like a TV celeb after a 20 minute chat, but this was edited to a mere 2 minutes on the box. However, celeb or not, nobody recognized me at the airport and I still had to produce my passport at customs. The flight was relatively peaceful and about as comfortable as one expects squeezed into the “cattle class” seats for that many hours.
Fortunately I touched down at Stansted Airport, as Donald Trump was due at Heathrow, same time, and security was apparently very strict with the arrival of Airforce 1 and their entourage.Imagine, the arrival of 2 Presidents in the UK on the same day. Chaos at both airports. Drat.Donald and I had with soooo much in common. Both Presidents, both recently been on TV, but with very different agendas. Where Donald wants to build a wall to restrict entry into the USA, I want to increase awareness and riding members in Ulysses.
I think I’m gonna start a “Make UJN Great” (or greater) campaign to rival his efforts. LOL.
Anyhow, back to reality. Peter, and his daughter Laura, met me at the airport and we never stopped talking until we’d reached his home where Bev (his wife) was preparing a braai.
For fear of boring you (those that actually read this) I had a wonderful week, the highlight of which was the pre-arranged Triumph Experience, the factory tour and time in the museum. Then, the “surprise meeting” of fellow Ulysseans at the factory. Wow, Wow and Wow again.My brother is an organizer of note and had arranged to meet some UK members at the Triumph Tea Shop adjoining the factory. There were 5 guys from the UK, a married couple from Australia (also on holiday wanting to meet local members) and one each from Norway and France who were “in transit” after being at the Isle of Man TT races. What a group, what a day!!!
What a day, now a fond fading memory, but with photos and mementos to remind me of the occasion and the fine fellas (and gal) of Ulysses that took the time to come to Hinkley.Later I had an “awards ceremony” where I handed each one a SA flag/Ulysses cloth badge. They were very well received, and appreciative. I received a few in return and will be sewing them onto my waistcoat in due course. Luckily I had stocked-up from Julian’s regalia store prior to my departure and had enough for everyone.
Notes to UJN travelers: Take a few, wherever you go, there are Ulysses members everywhere!!Secondly, check out Polarsteps. The free travel app that allows you to record your trip in a logical, memorable way, with comments, remarks and photos on your phone. You can also invite family n friends to “follow” you, so they can trace your activities and journey journal whenever it suits. This reduces excessive expensive phonecalls and picture downloads. Really cool, and sooo easy.
Whilst in London we also visited the Ace Café, a world renowned meeting venue for everything bike related. Built in 1938, restored after the bombing in WW2, and still going strong.A great breakfast run venue with very friendly staff, good biker food, drinks, history and oozing character for good measure. When in London visit the Ace Café for a cuppa, or a pint, it’s great.
Our 11:00 meeting, intersperced with cups of tea, scones and Chelsea buns was “cut short” when we were called for our 14:30 factory tour. Proving once again that time flies when you’re having fun with biker buddies.
There were many heavily laden bikes and friendly bikers “in transit” across Europe who were enjoying the ambience and biker grub before continuing on their respective biker journeys.
Well, a few days later and I was ready for meeting my mates at Heathrow, and on to Venice.
Bikes (2 x BMW850GS’s, 2019 models, fullhouse panniers and topbox, quickshifter, GPS and fullhouse electronics) arrived in a Vito bus from Slovinia on day 2, and we went out to tackle riding on the RHS of the road. Very scary, especially for my pillion who had been told of my bad luck when riding 2 up. . But, it was exciting, and “Italy was awaiting us, one day at a time”
Map alongside shows the route travelled and nights
numbered at each overnight stay.
We had planned to stay at Air B&B’s wherever possible, and set a budget of R1200 per night, for the 4 of us. This meant that most were self-catering, but our budget was limited and the girls were willing to prepare basic suppers and the boys sorted the breakfasts, where necessary.Such accommodation is impossible to find in the cities, and difficult to secure in towns, but very available in outlying villages. This suited us, as we wanted to travel away from the madding crowds and see rural Italy with occasional trips to towns and most tourist attractions.
Day 3 was spent in Venice. A lovely “sinking town” with a network of street canals and wide cobbled walkways that allow easy access to everything, as no vehicles are allowed. Truly magnificent. We never tried the famous gondolas as they were damn expensive and far too romantic for us, but they all look the same (much like our minibus taxis at home). Lots n lots.
Our biking holiday continued with every experience a new one. Bring it on!!!
Day 4 our ride was interrupted by a cavalcade of high powered, very fast and noisy sports cars all taking part in a timed hill climb over the back roads across the Alps. I managed a few photos from the verandah of the ristorante where we had stopped. Lambos, McLarens, Ferraris and Porches lead by a Police Subaru frantically trying to alert the community along the way. They could be heard from afar, roaring up the hill, screeching into the tight corners and powering out, rear brakes red hot from excessive use and occasional blips and flames from the exhaust pipes. Awesome to see, and very grateful that we had stopped for a coffee break when the lead car roared past or a change of trousers would’ve been necessary if they caught us on the road.
We travelled through, and stayed in villages like, Tosi, Apella, Nardi Beiro and Albenga as we crossed the Alps on the most challenging, narrow, well maintained roads that I’ve ever ridden.Along the way we criss-crossed through Florence (my favourite town) and into Pisa (to rescue the leaning tower).From Pisa we headed once again into the hills, to Casaleggio Borio and Albenga where we had a rest day on the beaches of the Rivera (prefer the beaches and waves of SA, by far)
The next day we took the tolled hi-way to Monte-Carlo, final destination Monaco.We passed through 66 tunnels (longest 1850m) and crossed many bridges that spanned the valleys (highest 240m) above the town below. In Monte-Carlo, between a visit to a 14th century sea fortress and trying to gain access to the Monte Carlo Yacht Club, we stumbled across an unusual statue. The statue of Ulysses!!!Honoring the legendary traveler, warrior and hero (but I was unable to understand the full story as his accolades were all engraved in Italian, drat, but Google for yourselves) but, he was at least attached to a wheel (possibly a very early Aprilia or Ducati from the factory in Italy)
Bridges and tunnels. Through the mountains and over the valleys. Ulysses, the legend.From Monte-Carlo we took the road to Monaco. The capital of class, very visible from the buildings, cars, boats and yachts in the harbour. We had lunch at an affordable Indian roadside café on the outskirts of town, hidden away in one of their busy, narrow streets and frequented by businessmen with limited budgets too.
What is a visit to Monaco without a trip around the famous F1 Grand Prix street circuit? Answer : Nothing.
It was on my bucket list, but I never really expected to achieve it. Here we were, so off we went.Emerging from the tunnel, past the yacht basin and then later around the notorious hairpin.When going through the tunnel we both pulled in our clutch and revved the *@#$ out of our bikes (within reason), like young boys trying to emulate the F1 experience. One can only imagine twenty F1 cars doing the same, but at much higher speeds and making much more noise, earning much more money in front of many, many more spectators. But, WTF. It was Wednesday and Thursday and Friday were approaching.
From Monaco we returned to our B&B, refreshed, satisfied, and with a stomach full of curry. The hi-way home was a breeze, having done it much earlier in the day.
Next morning we left for the hills, to tackle the Alps again, on route to the Northern lakes.Towns and villages like Alessandria, Spinimbecco, Brescia, Santa Maria Versa, Montichiari were on our agenda. We reached Lake Garda 4 wonderful days later, where we had another rest day.This was spent on a boat bobbing, picknicking and swimming on Lake Garda, with Dave the naughty, nautical pirate as our skipper. Temps in the high 30’s so the swim was very refreshing.
From Moderno we went via Verona, Abano, Tessera and finally Venice, where we had to retrieve our suitcases, unpack and return the bikes.We were asked to park the bikes in a nominated hotel parking area and hand the keys to reception. They were collected the following, loaded into the Vito bus and returned to Slovinia.
Our accommodation, for the 18 nights on tour, included some basic lodgings, typical family homes, modern chalets, a lovely revamped monastery from the 16th century and a chateau in the vineyards that had been in the same family for 5 generations.
Along the route we’d visited numerous castles, countless cathedrals, many museums, churches, bars and most of the well-known tourist attractions plus a lot not shown in the glossy brochures found in travel agents.
Our meals were also varied. Exciting food throughout. From a “wannabe Michelin Star restaurant” to Indian, home cooked suppers, bar snacks and many, many Italian dishes as every village has their own cuisine and proud too, of their wine. We sampled all, indulged in many, and I even exceeded the “2 beer Al” limit on occasion.
Regrets: Not understanding the language. We missed talking to the locals, fully understanding our hosts, and the interesting people we met along the way. Most of the youngsters, and school kids, speak some English, but not so for the older generation (look who’s talking here) and the farming communities in the outlying areas we explored.
Next trip: Nothing planned, as yet, but I’m saving. If only the exchange rate would cooperate.
For those readers who haven’t seen the slides, or heard the stories, book an appointment.But, remember: You may have to buy me a beer to hear the story.
Travel is wonderful, it fills one’s mind and empties the wallet.
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We also had a group from UJN who joined our 1000 Bike Show Breakfast ride.After attending 17 previous shows I finally saw examples of my first 4 bikes on display.
It was a blast from the past as Mac also saw “his” earlyNorton Commander, looking Good in British racing green.Just as he’d sold it many years ago.
Not sure if he shed a tear, but hewas very happy and impressed. who was very glad to have seen “his” early Norton Commander.
Jan du Plessis however “stole the show” by arriving on his recently restored 1967, 2 Stroke Twin, Yamaha 125.
I insisted on escorting him home, not questioning the reliability, but wanting to inhale the fumes, relive the era and enjoy the ride.Not only was his bike well photographed at the show, but along the hi-way too, as many cars slowed down when passing, took photos and no doubt relive their early biking days too.
A week later, Steve had organized a scenic ride thru Harties, over the R 511, to Hennops for a breakfast at Casa Nieto’s.A great ride and a buffet breakfast, but the venue could improve on their coffee. Or maybe it’s a plan to encourage bikers to support the bar.
UJN had a group of 8 riders, 9 with Simon, and we met the Pretoria and Centurion chapters who were hoping for a peaceful breakfast, until we arrived.
To conclude a very busy biking month, Julian had organized a UJN Thanksgiving Dinner. It was an opportunity to show our appreciation to all the Rally Sponsors and UJN volunteer workers. The event was held at the Randpark Golf Club and we had a stunning buffet dinner and a “smaller version” of the Ice Breaker to encourage mixing between members, partners Triumph and sponsors (and everybody’s spouses).
Another great evening thanks Jules, and another reason to party, however the dancefloor was less of an attraction than the social drinking and kuiering on the night. Well done, team.
Alan Russell 083 653 8405
Ulysses JoBurg North Chapter President
