PASTRY and BAKING - ASIA PACIFIC - volume 4 - issue 1 - 2008.pdf

Volume 4 Issue 1 2008

W W W . P A S T R Y A P . C O M

ISSN 1793-4508

S$5.50 / RM10

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Asian AAsian AdaptabilitydaptabilityPhilippe DauePhilippe Daue

WWorld Chorld Chocolate Mastersocolate Masters

Asian AdaptabilityPhilippe Daue

Asian AdaptabilityPhilippe Daue

World Chocolate MastersWorld Chocolate Masters

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Pastry&Baking ad mech 12/14/07 5:30 PM Page 1

2 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Letter From The Editor

So you want to be a successful artisan baker? Perhaps yourdream is to establish a gourmet chocolate empire? Or, youaspire to one day run the pastry operations of a 5-star hotel.Lofty goals. But, not unachievable.

Going into this profession, you are obviously aware of thelong hours and demanding schedules. But, in order to acquirethe skills necessary for super stardom, how much of yourselfare you willing to give? In particular, and this is the hard part,are you willing to work for free to garner the type of experienceand know-how you could never amass at culinary school?

Now, a certain percentage of you are reading this andsaying “So, what’s the big deal. That’s exactly what I did.” And,a certain few of you are reading this with horror. “Work forfree? No way!” If you fall into the latter group, this letter isfor you.

Regards,

Joseph Marcionette

Editor-in-ChiefEmail: [email protected]

All The World’s a ‘Stage’

你想成为一名成功的艺术烘焙师？你的梦想是建立起自己的美食巧克力帝国？又或者，你一心希望有朝一日能掌管某家五星级酒店的西点业务。目标诚远大，却绝非遥不可及。

投身美食行业的诸位，一定深知此工作之耗时劳心。然而，为了练就成为名家所必需的技能，诸位又愿意付出多少呢？尤其是，你会愿意为了获取某些无法从烹饪学校学到的经验和知识而不计报酬地工作吗？— 这点才是最难做到的。

现在，你们中的某些人可能边读这篇文章边说：“瞧，这没什么大不了的。我就是这么一路走来的。”然而，另一些人却对此心存恐惧。“不计报酬工作？不可能！”如果你恰属后者，那就请认真读下去。

好吧，首先，请用法语发音方式念一下Stage (舞台) 这个词，发“ahh”的音 — St-ah-ge。这个词在这里是什么意思呢？Stage是这样一个地方，你作为实习生在那里工作，却不领取任何报酬。Stage让你能有机会目睹某些厨房的内部操作并学习新知。是的，“动手实践”、“面对考验”、“全情投入”……总之，在实践中学习。当然，你付出了代价才赢得了这个学习机会。汗水，有时甚至是泪水，正是你所付出的东西；而你得到的东西可能会改变你的一生。

Okay, so first of all, you pronounce it the French way, withan “ahh” sound. St-ah-ge. What is it? A ‘stage’ is somethingwhere you’re basically working as an unpaid intern. It’s anopportunity to see another kitchen and how it works and tolearn. Yes, “hands on”, “trial by fire”, “jumping in with twofeet”…real life learning. And, you pay for the privilege. Yoursweat, and sometimes tears, is the currency you tender andwhat you take away can be life altering.

Working like a dog without pay might seem like a crazyidea, but for the passionate, aspiring dessert professional, whowants to learn from the best, it’s often the only way. Europeis the ultimate stage destination for many aspiring culinarians.Labor laws are such that in many European countries,foreigners must forgo pay to work in trendsetting kitchens.Be forewarned, this is not for the feint of heart. If you thinkit’s tough in the kitchen you’re working in now, wait untilyou work in Europe. But, again, how bad do you want it?

Nothing beats real world experience and if you are luckyenough to know someone or someway to get a stage in aworld class restaurant, hotel or cruise line, take it. Your pocketswill be lighter but you will learn from some of the best andbring those honed skills back to your country and continueon down the road to success.

辛劳工作而没有任何报酬 — 这看似疯狂的做法对充满激情热望、渴望师从一流名家的甜点业内人士而言，却是唯一的选择。欧洲是许多激情洋溢的美食学徒所向往的实习最佳目的地。但根据欧洲诸国的劳动法，外国从业人员为获得在一流美食厨房供职的机会不得不放弃报酬。注意，胆小者慎入！如果你觉得自己工作的厨房环境已属严苛，那么不妨先去欧洲工作试试吧。现在，我再问一次，你想象中的工作环境有多严苛？

没有什么能比一手经验更为珍贵了，如果你有幸经某人介绍或是通过其他某些途径得到了在世界级餐厅、酒店或游轮航线实习的机会，请好好把握吧。你的荷包可能会日渐消瘦，但你将有机会向诸位一流专家讨教并将更趋完善的技术带回祖国，在通往成功之路上继续前行。

祝好，

Joseph Marcionette

编辑

CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE

Felchlin Edelweiss Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded The Santé Gold Star

Top honors were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals, to Felchlin Switzerland for Edelweiss 36% White Chocolate for its supreme, clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors.

Award

For more information on distributionin Asia-Pacifi c visit www.felchlin.com

Asia_Pacific.indd 1Asia_Pacific.indd 1 21.12.2007 8:15:10 Uhr21.12.2007 8:15:10 Uhr

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Pastry&bakingA S I A P A C I F I C

32 Maxwell Road#03-07 White House

Singapore 069115

www.PastryAP.com

Email: [email protected]

Editor-in-chief / PublisherJoseph Marcionette

Creative DirectorLisa Dinges

Senior EditorCampbell Ross Walker

Endorsed by:

Hong Kong Bakery AndConfectionery Association

INTERBAKECHINA


Pastry&bakingA S I A P A C I F I C

30Chef in FocusExecutive Pastry Chef PhilippeDaue grew up in the Europeanhospitality industry but thisBelgian dessert pro employssituational adaptability to bestserve his guests at the Shangri-LaHotel Bangkok.

42Asian FusionLegendary Kim Young Mo shareshis unique approach to themarriage of classic Europeanpastry/baking with Asian tastesand sensibilities.

52Chocolate LoveWorld renowned pastry chefand chocolatier extraordinaireNorman Love presents adistinctive chocolate ball anddecorative rings right in timefor the holidays.

6

Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,

events and product updates for

the well informed professional.

14Regional ShowcaseJoin P&B AP on a tour of Asia Pacific

as we visit with and showcase

talented professionals who share

their favorite products and recipes.

46

Sugar ArtsThe incomparable Ewald Notter

provides step-by-step instruction and

insight into his passion and craft.

64

World Chocolate MastersComplete coverage of this event and

the extraordinary artistry exhibited.

House Specials18

64

30

鸡蛋制品工作室启动近日，美国禽蛋出口委员会（USAPEEC）于香港启动两家工作室以推动美国产鸡蛋制品在亚洲酒店，食品制造及食品服务等行业的应用。

据美国禽蛋出口委员会香港分会会长 Sarah Li 透露，来自香港烘焙业界的90多位代表出席了一场面向烘焙大厨及其他烘焙业相关人士的研讨会，其中大多数与会者并不熟悉鸡蛋加工制品。两场研讨会均由美国鸡蛋联盟出资筹办。

曾供职于 Michael 食品的知名食品顾问兼化学工程师JimCampbell 担任研讨会的演讲嘉宾。他就美国的鸡蛋制品及其在食品服务行业中的应用发表了演讲。

与 Jim Campbell 一同参加研讨会的还有九龙香格里拉大酒店的著名西点主厨 Wins Hung。他为大家演示了如何在烘焙过程中应用到液体蛋白，液体蛋黄及干鸡蛋。


Off The Wire

Egg Product WorkshopsRecently in Hong Kong, the USAPEEC conducted two workshopsto promote the use of U.S. processed egg products in the hospitality,food manufacturing, and food service sectors in Asia Pacific.

More than 90 representatives of the bakery trade in Hong Kong– many of whom were unfamiliar with processed eggs – showed upfor a seminar for bakery chefs and others involved in the bakeryindustry, according to USAPEEC Hong Kong Director Sarah Li.Both seminars were funded by the American Egg Board.

Noted food consultant Jim Campbell, a chemical engineer whoformerly worked for Michael Foods, was guest speaker. He gave apresentation on U.S. egg products and their functionality in foodservice.

Joining Campbell was well-known pastry chef Wins Hung ofthe Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel, who demonstrated how to use liquidegg white, liquid yolk, and dried whole egg in baking applications.

News, events and happeningsfrom around the region

La Rose Noire(黑玫瑰)：香港第十八家分店开幕La Rose Noire品牌在位于九龙的繁华地段**尖沙嘴东部的Elements购物中心正式开设了第十八家西点分店。

这家欧风西点屋坐落于购物中心二楼的异国风味食品店Three-sixty入口处，店铺内供应120多种新鲜烘焙的面包、西点，鲜榨水果蔬菜汁，并设有令人叹为观止的熟食三明治区。由于店铺注重以有机天然原料来吸引关注自身健康的顾客，所有的产品都采取了二十四小时不间断的烘焙或制作流程以确保其在任何时候都保有卓越的新鲜度。甚至店铺中的极品咖啡也是从咖啡农手中直接购买而来的。

La Rose Noire 的烘焙师将解答顾客们提出的问题，也会为大家介绍各种面包并讲解产品的不同之处，并可依据顾客的要求代为加热面包并切片。

La Rose Noire西点屋可谓是旧日街角西点铺在新时代的一次复兴，也是对于今日快速狂热生活方式的一种有益调剂。

7

La Rose Noire –18th Outlet inHong Kong

Hit the BooksLegendary chef Pichet Ong takes food lovers on ajourney into the little-known world of Asian dessertsin his groundbreaking book THE SWEET SPOT:Asian-Inspired Desserts. Beautifully photographedand full of anecdotes, Ong introduces readers to anew realm of culinary delight as he reveals the secretsof Asian desserts while making them accessible tohome cooks.

The recipes presented in THE SWEET SPOT showthat Asian desserts can tempt, excite and satisfy in waystraditional American desserts cannot. These spectacularculinary delights focus on making great flavor the toppriority. Instead of relyingon butter and sugar, thevibrant fruit and floral flavorsof Asia become the mainingredient. They will satisfyyour sweet tooth withoutsacr i f ic ing the c leansophistication that is theirhallmark.

书海撷珍在《“甜点”天书：亚洲风甜点》这一突破性著作中,

传奇式大厨 Pichet Ong 将带领美食爱好者们踏上甜点之旅，探寻鲜为人知的亚洲甜点世界。全书图片精美,

并穿插了不少美食逸闻，Ong将亚洲美食的秘密娓娓道来，并演示如何在家中制作这些美味，从而将读者们引入了一个体验烹饪乐趣的全新境界。

通过阅读本书收录的菜谱，读者将会体会到亚洲甜点所激发的诱惑感，激奋感、及满足感 — 这些体验是传统美国甜点无法提供的。这些美食愉悦的极度体验将极限美味作为第一要著。亚洲甜点并不依赖黄油和糖，而是将鲜亮的水果及鲜花风味作为主要原料。这样的甜点可在保有其纯净精致特征的前提下满足甜食爱好者们的口味。

时尚迷你Valrhona 发布了一款名为“时尚迷你”的全新一口脆巧克力杏仁糖系列产品，该产品色泽缤纷，口味多变。

现在就来体验吧！Valrhonad黑巧克力的浓郁、精制浓香牛奶巧克力甘那许的丝滑口感以及融合了水果和芳香草药、全然不同的甜美口味。

满口享受，纯粹欢愉！四种1千克盒装精彩组合现已上市：

– 西番莲果及薄荷– 黑醋栗及罗勒– 覆盆子及柠檬香油– 柠檬及茴香

La Rose Noire brand has officiallyopened its 18th bakery outlet inElements Shopping Mall located inKowloon’s bustling Tsim Sha Tsui East.

Situated on the second level, LaRose Noire European Styled Bakeryoffers more than 120 varieties of freshlybaked breads, pastries, just-pressedfruit and vegetable juices and an awe-inspiring deli sandwich counter. With an emphasis on organic and naturalingredients appealing to today’s wellness conscious consumer, products arebaked or made around-the-clock ensuring unsurpassed freshness at anytimeof day. Even the barista coffees originate from ‘fair trade’ coffee farmers.

La Rose Noire’s bakers are available to answer questions or assist customersby explaining the differences and profiles for each of the breads and are happyto warm or slice your selection upon your request.

La Rose Noire Bakery is a new millennium version of the old world’s cornerbakery and a welcomed addition to today’s fast paced and hectic lifestyle.

THE TRENDY-MINISValrhona launches the “Trendy-Minis”, the new one-bite chocolatepralines collection, high in colors, high in flavours!

Discover the strength of Valrhona dark chocolate and the smoothnessof a delicately perfumed milk chocolate ganache, contrasting withluscious flavours and the fusion of fruits and aromatic herbs.

A single mouthful of pure pleasure!Four gorgeous combinations available in 1-kg boxes:- Passion fruit & mint- Blackcurrant & basil- Raspberry & lemon balm- Lemon & aniseed

Off The Wire

Chocolate is a LifestyleRecently, The Embassy of Chocolate, TULIP hosted its 4thinstallment of The Jakarta Chocolate Expo. Taking placeat Semanggi Expo exhibition hall in the Sudirman CentralBusiness District, South Jakarta, the three-day expositionfeatured 40 companies and more than 50 local and foreignchocolate brands.

Due to the popularity of previous events and the evergrowing demand of Indonesian and Asian consumers, TULIPfelt compelled to put forth an even bigger and moresophisticated chocolate spectacular for both the retailcustomer and culinary professional.

With the theme “Chocolate is a Lifestyle”, The JakartaChocolate Expo presented numerous seminars and learningactivities along with live baking demonstrations, a 3.5 meterhigh chocolate fountain and the much anticipated ChefCompetition with total prizes exceeding US $7,000. Yet, thecrowd favorite, as in years past, was the show stoppingchocolate fashion show.

Accommodating more than35,000 visitors, the purpose ofThe Jakarta Chocolate Expo,a c c o r d i n g t o T U L I Pspokeswomen Elvira Koto, is“to promote and generateawareness to Indonesian-madechocolates.”

亚洲佳酿美食展揭幕首次亚洲佳酿美食展于澳门举行并获巨大成功后，该展会正式成为了亚太地区美酒，美食及酒店行业的一个互动平台。

2007亚洲佳酿美食展在位于澳门威尼斯人度假村的金光大道会展中心拉开帷幕，期间共吸引了7300名业内参观者，其中55%的参观者来自澳门以外的国家。该展会为澳门第一场专门化的食品烘焙业内盛会，来自全世界23个国家和地区的142位参展商参与了此次活动。

“本届展会获得了成功，在此，我们愉快地宣布2008亚洲佳酿美食展已确定将于2008年11月5日至7日开幕，地点依旧不变。”科隆国际展览有限公司亚太区副总裁 Michael Dreyer宣布。

他同时表示：“我对2007亚洲佳酿美食展的业内参观者质量相当满意，这也是该展会取得成功的一个关键原因。可以看到，来自亚洲及世界其他地区的食品服务业和餐饮行业高层决策人员以及采购商和我们的参展商携手展开了各种讨论活动。”

Inaugural Wine &Gourmet ASIAWine & Gourmet Asia has been successfullyestablished as the regional networking platformfor the fine wine, gourmet and hospitality industry,following the resounding success of the inauguralevent in Macau.

Held at The Cotai Strip Convention andExhibition Center at The Venetian Macao, the Wine& Gourmet ASIA 2007 trade exhibition attracted7,300 trade visitors, with over 55% traveling fromoutside of Macau. It was the first specialized F&Btrade event to take place in Macau with 142exhibitors from 23 countries and regions fromaround the world participating.

“With the success of this year’s event, we arepleased to announce that Wine & Gourmet ASIA2008 has been confirmed to take place at the samelocation from 5-7 November 2008,” said KoelnmesseAsia Pacific Vice President Michael Dreyer.

“I am very pleased with the trade visitor qualityat Wine & Gourmet ASIA 2007, which is one of thekey factors in the success of the show. We saw thetop decision-makers and buyers of food service andcatering market from the region and out of Asiaparticipate in many discussions with our exhibitors.”


Off The Wire

Food & HotelVietnam 2007Food & Hote l Vietnam 2007(FHV2007), the fourth InternationalFood & Drinks, Hotel, Restaurant, Bakery & Foodservice Equipment,Supplies & Services Exhibition and Conference ended recently afterattracting a total of 8,374 business and trade visitors from all over theworld.

Spreading across three halls of the Ho Chi Minh International Exhibitionand Convention Centre (HIECC), FHV2007 occupied 7,000 square metresof exhibition space and drew international participation from 11 grouppavilions and 240 exhibiting companies representing 22 countries/regions.

As Vietnam’s choice international food, beverage and hospitality tradeexhibition, FHV2007 has attracted a diverse range of visitors, includingprofessionals from the F&B, hotel, restaurant, hospitality technology andequipment sectors. Exhibitors at the event were happy with the quality oftrade buyers that visited the exhibition.

“This show is excellent, one of the best. All the exporters are very happy.We are coming back, that is for sure – with a bigger booth!” said Ms.Margaret Say, Regional Director, USA Poultry & Egg Export Council.

Within FHV2007 were concurrent events such as the exciting VietnamCulinary Challenge, where Vietnam’s top culinary chefs demonstrated theirculinary creativity to the highest level by pitting their skills against theirprofessional peers. The competition drew a total of 69 participants fromleading F&B establishments in Vietnam, including the Grand Hotel, MajesticHotel, Vietnam Air Caterers, Sofitel Hotel and ABC Bakery. Gold winnersincluded professionals from Vietnam Air Caterers and Songbe Golf Co.Competition sponsors included the USA Poultry & Egg Export Council,Fonterra Brands, New Viet Dairy,Charles Wembley (S.E.A.) and NhatNam Fine Foods.

The next Food&HotelVietnamexhibition and conference willreturn in 2009. Please visit www.foodnhotelvietnam.com for moreinformation.

2007越南食品酒店盛会揭幕2007越南食品酒店展（FHV2007），即第四届国际食品饮料、酒店、餐厅、西点及食品服务设备、供应服务展览会议于近日闭幕，期间共吸引了全球8374名商家及业内参展人士到会。

2007越南食品酒店展在胡志明国际展览会已中心（HIECC）的三个大厅拉开帷幕，整个展览场地面积达7000平方米，共有代表22个国家和地区的11家集体展馆及240家展览公司出席，可算得上是一场国际化的盛会。

2007越南食品酒店展作为当地的一项国际食品、饮料酒店业精品展会吸引了来自不同领域的参观者，其中包括来自食品烘焙业，酒店业，餐馆业,

餐饮技术及设备业的专业人士。参展商对于参观展会的业内采购商档次颇为满意。

“这展会太棒了，简直跻身一流之列。所有的出口商都感到很高兴。当然，我们还会来的 —下次还要预定更大的展位！”美国家禽及鸡蛋出口会区域总监 Margaret Say 女士说道。

数项盛会亦与展会同期召开，其中包括激动人心的越南烹饪挑战赛。越南顶级烹饪大厨借机展示了自己烹饪创意的最高水平，与业内同仁一较高下。本次比赛共迎来了69位来自越南当地顶级美食烘焙店铺的参赛者，其中用包括大酒店, 皇家酒店, 越南航空配餐公司, Sofitel 酒店及 ABC 西饼屋。金牌由来自越南航空配餐公司及Songbe高尔夫有限公司的选手获得。本届大赛由美国家禽及鸡蛋出口会，恒天然乳品，New Viet乳品，CharlesWembley（东南亚）及Nhat Nam食品联合赞助。

下届越南食品酒店展览会议将在2009年召开。欲知详情，敬请点击www.foodhhotelvietnam.com

亚洲佳酿美食展揭幕首次亚洲佳酿美食展于澳门举行并获巨大成功后，该展会正式成为了亚太地区美酒，美食及酒店行业的一个互动平台。

2007亚洲佳酿美食展在位于澳门威尼斯人度假村的金光大道会展中心拉开帷幕，期间共吸引了7300名业内参观者，其中55%的参观者来自澳门以外的国家。该展会为澳门第一场专门化的食品烘焙业内盛会，来自全世界23个国家和地区的142位参展商参与了此次活动。

“本届展会获得了成功，在此，我们愉快地宣布2008亚洲佳酿美食展已确定将于2008年11月5日至7日开幕，地点依旧不变。”科隆国际展览有限公司亚太区副总裁 Michael Dreyer 宣布。

他同时表示：“我对2007亚洲佳酿美食展的业内参观者质量相当满意，这也是该展会取得成功的一个关键原因。可以看到，来自亚洲及世界其他地区的食品服务业和餐饮行业高层决策人员以及采购商和我们的参展商携手展开了各种讨论活动。”

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Nothing great was ever done without passion…

FROZEN FRUITS, FRUIT PUREES, FRUIT COULIS

For any further information, contact:

Tel: 33 (1) 45 60 73 32or visit our website

www.boironfreres.com

AP_Instit_GB-CHIN_A4.indd 1 5/11/07 16:59:47


dobla.comDOBLA BV, The Netherlands

We have distributors all over South East Asia/Pacific. Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com

Recipe made by

Arthur Tuytel, Patissier chocolatier ‘Crème de la Crème’. Member of the Dutch Pastry Team. Arthur used the Dobla ‘Domino square dark/white’ and the ‘Rose dark/white’.

INNOVATION IN CHOCOLATE ASSOCIATE MEMBER OF

Visit Dobla’s stand

from 29 March - 2 April 2008 in Paris, France

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4923 Ad Pastry & Baking Asia_v2.indd 1 17-01-2008 15:59:10


RegionalShowcase

The chocolate to be enjoyedin capital letters.

Xocoline, the new sugar-free creation by Valrhona, combines the full flavour of a great65% dark chocolate with the subtle overtones of oak. This unique blend of fine cocoavarieties is a tribute to the creativity of our master chocolate makers.

Valrhona - France - www.valrhona.com

Visit our booth atFood Hotel & Asia, Singapore

22-25 April 2008

Valrhona,Founding Member & Official Partner

of the Asian Pastry Cup22-24 April 2008

As part of FHA 2008

Xocoline (GB) H297xL210 23/01/08 11:45 Page 1


Regional Showcase

Temptation

Chi-Yuan Italian Bakery

No. 11, Minzu Rd.Danshui Town, TaipeiTel: 886-2-28093555

Lien Tsung Ming

Your Notes

Taiwan台湾

Yield: 12 cakes

Chocolate Mousse40g egg yolk160g whole egg100g sugar400g dark chocolate 55%13g gelatine sheet1000g dairy fresh cream (soft whipped)30g orange liquor

1. Whip egg yolk, whole egg and sugartogether.

2. Melt chocolate to 45°C and add tomixture.

3. Add melted, absorbed gelatine and usehand mixer to make mixture smooth.

4. Add whipped fresh cream and orangeliquor.

Cheese Mousse62.5g egg yolk50g caster sugar25g water9g gelatine500g dairy fresh cream500g mascarpone dried cheese

1. Whipped egg yolk.

2. Cook sugar and water to 115°C,pour into egg yolk.

3. Add melted absorbed gelatine.

4. Fold in dried cheese slowly.

5. Add whipped cream.

Berries Brulee300g strawberry150g raspberry puree50g frozen blueberry75g sugar10g gelatine sheet5g Kirsch

1. Cook fruit and puree 80°C, add sugar.

2. Add melted absorbed gelatine.

3. Pour into flexipat and put into freezer.

Almond Cake (40 cm x 60 cm)295g egg yolk130g sugarS.Q. vanilla flavor215g milk240g cake flour80g almond flour425g egg white160g sugar5g cream of tartar

1. Whip egg yolk and sugar

2. Cook milk to 80°C and pour into eggyolk

3. Whip egg white, sugar and tartar cream(soft whipped). Add into mixture.

4. Sift cake flour and almond flour, addinto mixture.

Assembly1. Put one layer of almond cake at the

bottom and then add cheese mousse.

2. Next, layer the chocolate mousse andone more almond cake.

3. Add layer of berry brulee and chocolatemousse.

4. Cheese mousse and finally withchocolate mousse on top.

5. Add necessary decoration withchocolate spray and lids.

17

Temptation

4. Fold in egg yolk mixture intomeringue. Pour into prepared pansand bake for 25 to 30 minutes or untildone. Cool in pan for 10 minutes theninvert onto a cooling rack. Coolcompletely.

Filing and Frosting100g egg yolks100g granulated sugar60 ml water15 ml light corn syrup180 ml coconut jam or more3 to 60 ml lambanog or coconut liquor400g butter, softened60 ml cream or milk160g toasted coconutCarved lemon lime rind in syrup

1. In a bowl, beat egg yolks till light.Meanwhile, cook together sugar, waterand corn syrup in a saucepan till threadstage. Pour into beaten yolks. Beat untilcool.

2. Add coconut jam then beat in creamor milk. Add lambanog, beat well.Use this to fill and frost cakes. Garnishwith toasted coconut. Top with carvelemon lime rind in syrup.

Rum California Raisins Sans RivalMeringue1 cup egg white1 tsp cream of tartar1 cup + 2 tbsp sugar13/4 cups cashew, chopped1/3 cup cashew, toasted

1. Preheat oven to 275ºF. Line cookiesheets with parchment paper or siliconmat. Set aside.

2. Beat together egg white with cream oftartar until frothy. Gradually add sugar.Beat until stiff. Fold in nuts. Spreadmeringue mixture onto preparedcookie sheet (according to desiredsize.) Bake for 1 hour or until done.Cool completely.

Icing11/2 cups California raisins21/2 cups hot water2 tbsp rum, or more2/3 cup sugar1/4 cup water12 egg yolks2 cups butter1 tsp pure vanilla extract

1. Soak California raisins in hot wateruntil plump. Drain then puree. Addrum.

2. In a saucepan, boil sugar and wateruntil thread stage.

3. Meanwhile, beat egg yolks for 2minutes then add syrup in a stream. Beat until light and cool.

4. In another bowl, cream butter untillight. Pour beaten yolk mixture in fourparts. Add vanilla extract and thenthe California raisin mixture. Use tofrost meringue layers.

Assembly1. Lay a meringue layer on a cake plate.

Spread buttercream on top. Repeatlayers. Cover sides with morebuttercream.

2. Garnish with toasted cashew.


Regional Showcase

Dessert Trio

Chef/Proprietor

Delize33 Sunrise DriveCubao, Quezon City

PhilippinesGilda F. Sandique

菲律宾

Your Notes

Coconut Rice Balls With MuscovadoSugar500g sticky rice flourgranulated sugar, to taste200ml water or more2 ml ube (purple yam)2 ml corn or langka (jackfruit)2 ml vanilla extractAngel flake coconut, for coatingMuscovado sugar, to taste

1. In a bowl, mix together sticky rice flourand water to form a firm dough.Divide into 3 and knead in the ube,corn or langka and vanilla extract toeach portion.

2. Roll the dough into 1/2 inch balls. Drop into boiling water. Cook forabout 2 minutes or until the rice ballsfloat to the surface. Drain this coatwith angel flake coconut.

3. Top with muscovado sugar.

Coconut Lime Cake240g cake flour, sifted12g baking powder100g sugar2g salt120 ml vegetable oil180 ml water5 -10g lime rind, finely grated100g egg yolks280g egg whites2g cream of tartar200g sugar

1 Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease and linethe bottom of 3 – 9”x 1” layer pan. Setaside.

2. In a bowl, sift together flour, bakingpowder, sugar and salt. Make a well inthe center and add the oil, water, limerind and egg yolks. Mix until wellblended.

3. In another bowl, beat together eggwhites and cream of tartar until frothy.Gradually add the sugar and beat untilstiff but not dry.

19

Dessert Trio


Regional Showcase

Soleil d’Or

Professor

Futaba Confectionery SchoolTokyo, Japan

JapanTatsuya Ohno

Yield: 5 cakes(18 cm diameter 4 cm height)

Biscuit Joconde270g egg180g almond powder140g icing sugar45g flour30g melted butter170g egg white80g sugar

1. Mix the egg and shifted almondpowder and icing sugar.

2. Whip the egg yolk with the sugar.

3. Mix the first two and add the shiftedflour and melted butter.

4. Spread on silpat and bake at 180°C for15-17 minutes.

Fond Coco Citron Vert150g pastry cream90g milk280g shredded coconuts1pc lime zest245g egg white140g sugar

1. Add the milk to the pastry cream. Mix.

2. Add the lime zest to coconuts. Infuse.

3. Whip the egg white with sugar.

4. Mix all together and pipe at 16.5 cmdiameter on Silpat. Bake at 200°C for17-20 minutes.

Crème Vanilla400g milk2.5 pcs vanilla beans140g egg yolk50g sugar20g gelatin sheet80g rum1200g cream 38%

1. Make anglaise with milk, vanilla, eggyolk and sugar. Add the bloomedgelatin.

2. Cool it down and add the rum.

3. Mix the whipped cream.

Pineapple Confit700g pineapple1400g water525g sugar2 pc vanilla beans

1. Slice the pineapple at 1 cm thickness.2. Make a syrup with water, sugar and

vanilla. Soak the cut pineapple for 1night.

3. Cut them into the small cube.

Coulis Cocktail350g mango puree140g passion fruits puree75g lime puree140g orange juice135g sugar18g gelatin sheet

1. Heat all the juices at 60°C.2. Add the sugar and bloomed gelatin.3. In the flexipan disk of 16 cm diameter,

spread the cube of pine apple confit.Pour the coulis at 1 cm depth. Freeze.

Ponche Anana175g syrup of pineapple confit30g Kirsche

Mix.

Assembly1. Cover the cake ring with the plastic

film.

2. Pour the crème vanilla at 1/2 depth.

3. Add the biscuit joconde and soak theponche anana.

4. Add the frozen coulis cocktail. Pourthe crème again.

5. Cover with the fond coco citron vert.Freeze.

6. Unmould and glaze. Decorate withthe fruits.

Your Notes

日本Courtesy All Japan Confectionery Association from PCG Magazine

21

Soleil d’Or

20 pcs amarena cherries2 drops green food color

1. Bring water to boil and dissolve theagar-agar powder.

2. Add sugar, mint essence and color.

3. Put cherries in a small pyramid mouldand fill with jelly mixture.

Passion Fruit Sauce100g passion fruit puree35g sugar

Bring puree and sugar to boil and cookfor 1 minute.

Assembly1. Spray the terrine with dark chocolate

spray and lightly touch with whitespray.

2. Place the terrine on the serving plate.

3. Unmould the jelly and place 1 pieceon the terrine and 1 piece on the plate.

4. Serve with fresh berries and passionfruit sauce

5. Decorate with chocolate stick and goldleaf.


Regional Showcase

Chocolate Marble Terrine

Pastry Chef

Le Meridien Kuala LumpurJalan Stesen Sentral50470 Kuala Lumpur

MalaysiaLoh Mee Fong

Yield: 10 portions

Dark Chocolate Cream22g sugar30g egg yolk30g egg94g dark chocolate 64%6g Nescafe powder8g rum2g gelatin240g whipping cream

1. Add some water into sugar and boiluntil 121°C.

2. Beat up egg yolks and eggs, pour inboiling sugar, continue beating the eggmixture until cool.

3. Dissolve the Nescafe powder andgelatin, add to the egg mixture.

4. Stir in melted chocolate and rum. Foldin whipping cream.

White Chocolate Cream43g white chocolate 35%87g whipping cream3g gelatin214g egg yolk150g sugar

1. Add some water into sugar and boiluntil 121°C.

2. Beat up egg yolks, pour in boiling sugarand continue beating the egg mixtureuntil cold down.

3. Dissolve gelatin and combine with eggmixture.

4. Stir in melted chocolate. Fold inwhipping cream.

Chocolate Marble TerrineFill up the terrine mould with 2 chocolatecreams and make marble design.

Mint Amarena Cherry Jelly400g water50g sugar2g agar-agar powder2 g mint essence

Your Notes

马来西亚

23

Chocolate Marble Terrine


Regional Showcase

Apple Cream Cheese Danish Bread

Chef

La Maison du DanemarkNo. 98, Lung Jiang RoadTaipei City

Kao Chih Chung

Your Notes

Taiwan台湾

Yield: 24 pieces

Ingredients(1)700g bread flour300g cake flour130g caster sugar18g salt200g whole egg300g water3g s-500 kimo long frozen doughimprover3g s-500 improver100g butter20g milk powder

(2)30g fresh yeast

(3)1800g dough450g butter sheet

Cream Cheese Filling200g sugar2000g cream cheese100g whole egg

Sweet Apple8 pc apple300g sugar150g water1pc lemon

1. Peel & slice apple.2. Cook with sugar and water.3. Add lemon juice and boil again.

Method1. Mix all ingredients (part 1) in low

speed for 5 minutes and high speedfor 3 minutes, add fresh yeast (part 2)when mixing 3 minutes from thebeginning. Final dough temperature22ºC.

2. Press 1800g of dough flatly and putinto freezer for 40 minutes and fold inbutter sheet 450g (part 3).

3. Sheet the dough 4 folds 1 time andthen 3 folds 2 times. The doughthickness is 0.12cm.

4. Use apple cutter to make apple shape,pipe cream cheese filling and add 3pieces of apple slice on the top.

5. Final fermentation: 28ºC and 120minutes.

Bake at 180ºC for 20 minutes.

27

Apple Cream Cheese Danish BreadApple Cream Cheese Danish Bread


Regional Showcase

Cherry Cassata

Chef

Margan Restaurant1238 Milbrodale RoadBroke NSW 2330www.margan.com.au

AustraliaJose Miguel

2 vanilla beans110g sugar8 eggs, separated1 litre creampinch salt300g cherries200g chopped dark chocolate200g pistachios

1. Whisk sugar and yolks until pale.Scrape vanilla beans and mix in bowl.

2. In separate bowl, whisk cream untilstiff.

3. In separate bowl, whisk egg whites toform stiff peaks.

4. Add cherries, chocolate and pistachiosto bowl 1 and then fold in bowl 2. andlastly fold in bowl 3.

5. Pour mix into container so Cassata canbe served cut into wedges.*A small pudding basin is an idealcontainer for this job. Line container with plastic wrap so Cassata can beeasily removed from container for serving and also to prevent cherriestouching sides if a metal container is being used.

6. Freeze until required.

Your Notes

澳大利亚

29

Cherry Cassata


Chef in Focus

By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography by Dragon and Hungry Eyes

Asian Adaptability

Executive Pastry Chef Philippe Daue grew up in the European hospitalityindustry but this Belgian dessert pro employs situational adaptability

to best serve his guests at the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok.

融入亚洲

Philippe Daue 是一位在欧洲餐饮业成长起来的西点执行主厨，然而，这位比利时甜点专家灵活应变，从而为曼谷香格里拉

酒店的客户提供更好的服务。

31

Collection of Verrines


Chef in Focus

Executive Pastry Chef Philippe Daue. In fact, gastronomy andhospitality run through Philippe’s veins. He was born to bea chef.

Raised in Oostende, Belgium, a seaside town on the NorthSea, Philippe’s earliest memories center around the kitchen.Growing up, his parents ran the Hotel Oostende Compagnie,a boutique hotel at the Belgian Royal Family’s former summerresidence. Philippe’s father was a chef of considerable renownand oversaw the back of the house at the hotel’s 2 Michelinstar fine dining restaurant. With his mother in charge of hoteloperations, Philippe’s formative years where heavily influencedby the pursuit of quality and understated elegance. With suchsurroundings, no one was surprised when Philippe decided tofollow in the family business.

“When your father is a well known chef and both yourparents are involved with the hospitality industry, gastronomybecomes part of your everyday life. I was literally born intothe business. Kitchens were my playground and whisks andpots my toys. Now that I think of it, from both my father andmother’s side, I’m a fourth generation chef,” says Philippe.

After completing his secondary education, Philippe headedoff to hotel school with a concentration in cooking. Part ofthe curriculum afforded Philippe the opportunity toapprentice in some of Europe’s finest restaurants and hotels.It seemed the die was cast and Philippe would follow directlyin the footsteps of his father and those before him and pursuea career in hot cooking. Ironically, it was Philippe’s fatherwho saw a higher degree of concentration and attention todetail in the young chef and suggested Philippe try his handat pastry.

O ne often hears that pastry is a passion and that tobe a successful chef you’ve got to be ignited fromwithin by a love of food. That's certainly true for

实上，Philippe 和美食餐饮有着不解之缘 — 他生来就是一名大厨。在靠近北海的比利时海滨小镇奥斯坦德长大的 Philippe 关于童

年的最初记忆都是围绕着厨房展开的。那时，他的父母经营着奥斯坦德酒店公司**一家位于前比利时皇家避暑宅邸的小型高档酒店。Philippe 的父亲是一位赫赫有名的大厨，掌管着酒店内一家米其林二星级高端餐厅的厨房重地。负责酒店经营工作的母亲对于高质量和含蓄优雅的追求对处在性格形成期的 Philippe 产生了很大的影响。在这种环境下，Phillippe 毫无悬念地决定子承父业。

“如果你的父亲是一位知名大厨，而双亲都从事酒店行业,烹饪就成了你日常生活的一部分。事实上，我一出生就注定要从事这个行业。厨房就是我的游乐场，而搅拌器和锅子就是我的玩具。现在想来，从我父母双方家里算起，我都可算是第四代厨师了，”Philippe 回忆道。

在完成中等教育课程学习后，Philippe 结束学业，来到酒店学校专攻烹饪。酒店学校的部分课程让 Philippe 有机会在欧洲最好的餐厅和酒店见习。至此，事情似乎已成定局 — Philippe 将会紧紧追随父亲及前辈的脚步，踏上菜肴烹饪的职业生涯。然而，颇具讽刺意味的是，Philippe 的父亲恰恰发现这位年轻的大厨对于细节的专著度和敏锐度更高，并由此建议他尝试西点制作这条道路。

“有一年夏天我回到家里，和父亲一起烹饪食品，他开始询问我对于食品的看法，我的个人好恶，最后说如果我尝试西点甜品制作，也许能够真正实现我内心对于一份富有创意的职业所抱有的追求。我心想这建议不错，”Philippe 笑言。

Philippe 从此一头扎进了西点行业，激情满怀地开始学习，并期待接受创意挑战。法国境外唯一一家米其林三星级餐厅 — 布鲁塞尔 Villa Lorraine 成了Phillipe事业的起点。Phillipe 知道 VillaLorraine 忙碌而充满压力的后台烹饪环境正是他全新职业道路的绝佳训练场。“老实说，这段经历让我胆战心惊。作为一家欧洲顶

们都说西点制作是一个需要热情的行当，想要成为一个成功的大厨，你就得怀有一颗酷爱美食的赤诚之心。西点执行主厨 Philippe Daue 绝对是如此。事人

33

级餐厅的西点厨师，你可不能马虎出错，当然也无暇休息。不过，这个职位最终还是成功地将我引入了西点的专业世界。”Philippe欣喜地回忆当初。

在 Villa Lorraine 工作了9个月后，Philippe得去服兵役了, 于是他离开餐厅参加基础训练。期间他曾在外国步兵团及跳伞营服役，由于精通射击术，他晋升为区域狙击手。这样，他的双手愈发稳健，眼力愈发超群，而这对于他之后在西点职业道路上的迅猛发展也是大有裨益的。

服完兵役之后, Philippe 回到了奥斯坦德酒店, 协助父母经营公司并主管西点制作。酒店那充满古风雅趣的环境显然极大地激发了Philippe的创作灵感。每一位客人都见证了他个人技术水平的一次又一次精进。晚上, 厨房变成了他的实验室 — 他会按照法国知名厨师所著的烹饪书籍进行烹饪, 然后增加原料, 使之成为他自己的作品。

“When I returned home one summer, my father and I werecooking and he started to ask me about my approach to food,likes and dislikes, and finally suggested maybe I could findexactly what I was looking for – in a career and creativelyspeaking – by trying pastry and desserts. I thought it was a goodsuggestion,” Philippe says with a laugh.

Philippe dove into pastry, excited to learn and lookingforward to the creative challenge. First stop was the RestaurantVilla Lorraine in Brussels, the first 3 Michelin star restaurantoutside of France. With such a hectic, pressurized kitchen,Philippe knew Villa Lorraine was the perfect training groundfor his newly chosen path. “I will admit it was intimidating.Being a pastry cook in one of Europe’s top restaurant does notallow for many mistakes or a moment’s rest, but in the end, itwas the ideal position for complete pastry immersion,” Philipperemembers fondly.

After 9 months at the Villa Lorraine, it came time for Philippe’snational service and he was off to basic training. Serving in botha foreign infantry regimen and later a parachute battalion, Philippeexcelled at marksmanship and was promoted to sectional sniper,leveraging his steady hand and critical eye that would prove sohelpful in his soon to flourish pastry profession.

Upon the completion of his national service, Philippereturned to the Hotel Oostende Compagnie to assist his parentsand take ownership of the pastry operations. The quaintenvironment proved stimulating to Philippe’s creativity and hewas able to hone his skills on a very personal level with eachguest. At night, the kitchen became his laboratory, as he followedthe cook books of the great French pastry chefs and expandedupon their recipes and made them his own.

“Back then, and as I still feel today, the real challenge inpastry resides in combining flavors that can in turn create anew sensory experience for the quest. Food should not beboring. Sure, if a rare and/or distinct ingredient is used at itstop condition, it would be a waste to try to modify it by addingother flavors. Pastry should be fun and playful, not ruled byrigid tradition,” say Philippe.


Chef in Focus

It was Philippe’s unconventional approach to pastry’straditional that earned Philippe respect and a growing reputationamong culinary professionals in Belgium and across Europe.In 1996, one of his former colleagues from the Villa Lorrainealerted Philippe to a lucrative, albeit unusual opportunity,located in Jakarta, Indonesia. For Philippe, Asia was unchartedterritory and the position sounded like just want he was lookingfor after 6 years at the Hotel Oostende Compagnie.

Jakarta, circa 1996, was a thriving, vibrant city with abooming hospitality industry. The Sahid Jaya Hotel & Towerwas an older property now competing with the likes of theRegent, Shangri-La and Dharmawangsa. Sahid Jaya managementknew they needed a spark in their kitchen and the orders werereceived from high up to bring in a European pastry chef toadd quality and presentation to their many outlets.

“Jakarta was certainly different than Belgium. I came froma 13-room boutique hotel on the quiet, very cold coast, whereI was handling fine dining and the next day I was in charge ofthe pastry and baking operations at a 700-room monsterproperty with an enormous banquet capacity, 8 outlets(including a cake shop) and 42 person staff that I had to superviseand to train,” Philippe explains. “Humidity like I had neverexperienced, I was overwhelmed at first. Thankfully, themanagement team was very supportive and my time at theSahid Jaya was a wonderful experience that helped me learn alot about myself and my ability to manage a large group ofpeople and outlets.”

“无论是当时还是现在，我都认为西点行业的真正挑战在于将不同的口味结合在一起，从而为顾客提供一种全新的口感体验。美食可不应该让人产生审美疲劳。当然，如果你已经恰如其分地运用到了某些珍奇或是与众不同的原料，那么就不需要再添加其他的口味来画蛇添足了。西点应该趣味横生，活泼有趣，而不应囿于某些死板的传统，”Philippe 指出。

Philippe 以反传统的西点风格赢得了众人的敬仰，他在比利时和整个欧洲烹饪界中的名气越来越响。1996年，经过去在VillaLorraine 的同事提醒，他注意到印度尼西亚雅加达暗藏一处意义非凡的获利良机。对 Philippe 而言，亚洲是一片未知的疆域，而这份工作刚好是他在奥斯坦德酒店工作六年后一直在寻觅的。

1996年前后的雅加达是一座兴起中的活力之城，当地的酒店业蒸蒸日上。Sahid Jaya 酒店成立已有些年头了，当时正和丽晶、香格里拉、戴玛万萨等大酒店争夺市场。Sahid Jaya 的管理层知道自家厨房急需创意火花，于是奉高层之命引进一名欧洲西点大厨以便提升旗下多家店铺之产品质量及整体形象。

“雅加达与比利时有着明显的不同。我来自一家仅有十三间客房的精品小酒店，周边静谧，紧邻清冷海岸。前一天我还在那里准备菜肴，第二天却要负责一家酒店的西点烘焙工作 —这可是一家设有700间客房，庞大宴会厅，8 家店铺（包括一家蛋糕店）的巨型酒店。除此之外，我还必须监督并培训42名员工，”Philippe解释说：“况且这里的潮湿环境也是我从未经历过的，于是乎一开始我便有些晕头转向了。幸亏管理团队对我非常支持，因此在Sahid Jaya 工作是一段很棒的经历，通过这阶段的工作，我对自己的了解更为深入，管理大型团队和店铺的能力也有所提升。”

Savory Crab Cheesecake

35

Once his overseas career started, Philippe knew he foundthe lifestyle and adventure he yearned for. From Jakarta,Philippe moved to Dubai, China, Thailand, Malaysia, NewZealand and finally settling in at the Shangri-La in Bangkok.All the while, Philippe continued to learn, practice and develophis skills and approach to pastry. “What I love about what Ido is the precision involved. Pastry is all about consistency.Consistency with the products, consistency with the recipes,the temperatures, the timing, etc. It is a very organized,structured way of working, which I like,” say Philippe.

For Philippe, the Thai capital is an exception locationwith wonderful people and a real appreciation for pastry andquality. Sure, the traffic could be better but no place is perfect.“Bangkok is great”, Philippe offers while working along sidehis team in preparation for an evening wedding, “But,technically, the tropics make it a bit harder for pastry chefsand bakers because of humidity levels and ambienttemperatures. There are challenges culturally as well. The‘mai pehn rai’ attitude of the locals –no worries, relax- doestake some getting used to but after a while, you find it is alovely way of life.”

“Another challenge that we face almost on a daily basisis interactivity at the buffet counters. Following the globaltrend for staffed buffet experiences, we implemented thisserving methodology recently but in Thailand it is a challengebecause junior people (cooks) are not supposed to addresssenior people (guests) without being asked. We certainlydon’t ask members of our team to abandon their culturalidentity so we work around this the best we can — a Thaihybrid of interactive buffet that in the end works well,” offersPhilippe.

Philippe has learned to manage with pragmatism and isreadily aware that his Western training can sometimes clashwith local culture. Regardless, he loves the challenge and thechance to bring his passion to guests who may not have hadthe experience of a traditional Milanese panettone or a frozencaramel parfait on a tropical salsa.

在海外进行职业发展的 Philippe 知道自己已经找到了一种内心渴望的生活方式和冒险经历。此后 Philippe 离开雅加达来到迪拜，然后又去了中国、泰国、马来西亚、新西兰，最后终于在曼谷香格里拉酒店停下了脚步。他始终在不断学习，实践并拓展自己的西点制作风格及技艺。“这项工作最叫我中意的一点就是完成作品所需要的精确性。西点就是一种和谐一致的艺术。产品的和谐性，配料的和谐性，乃至温度、时间把握的和谐性等等。西点制作是一种步骤明确，组织严密的工作，我很喜欢。”Philippe坦言。

对 Philippe 而言，这座泰国首府城市很是与众不同 — 居民友善且对西点及其品质具备真正的鉴赏力。当然，当地的交通情况还有待改善，但既然“城无完城”，这点也无可厚非。“曼谷是一座伟大的城市”，Philippe 说这话的时候正与自己的团队并肩作战，为一场晚宴做前期准备，“但是，从技术层面上来说，热带环境增加了西点大厨和烘焙师的工作难度，因为这里的湿度和周边温度都很高。同时，文化背景也是一种挑战。我确实费了不少功夫才习惯当地人所崇尚的‘mai pehn rai’ — 也就是一种无忧无虑，完全放松的态度，但是不久之后，你就会发现这种生活方式其实非常可爱。”

“我们几乎每天都要面临的另一种挑战则是冷餐台上的互动问题。为顺应配备服务生提供冷餐服务的国际潮流, 我们也于近日推行了这种服务模式。但是这在泰国是一种富有挑战性的做法,因为根据当地习惯，提供服务者（即厨师）是不应该未经要求主动和接受服务者（即客人）说话的。当然，我们不会要求团队成员抛弃自身的文化背景，所以我们尽可能圆满解决这个问题。结果, 这种融入泰国文化的互动式冷餐模式效果相当不错，”Philippe如此说道。


Chef in Focus

With broader, gastronomic appreciation growing rapidly inAsian countries like Thailand, Philippe is savvy enough to makethe most of his European heritage and leverage the abundanceof exotic, local ingredients. With offering such as Star AniseChocolate Pearls, Pandan and Blackberry Financiers and SavoryCrab Cheesecake, Philippe walks a delicate line between his owntradition and accommodating the tastes of his guests.

“The locals may not be familiar with the different breads,cakes and pastry we can make, but they link “European” tocraftsmanship and quality of product. So, when it is time tothink up new creations, I consider greatly the surroundings andput myself in the shoes of our quests. I just write down whatevercomes to mind, never mind if it sounds or looks incoherent.Then later, I’ll see how it actually could be produced andpresented. The tasting stage follows and if disappointing, it’s inthe bin. If excellent or can be fine tuned, the creation ends upon the menu of one of our outlets,” says Philippe.

Philippe Daue is living a life of exploration and creation. Hisadaptive approach to pastry is well suited for Asia but don’t tryto pigeon hole him as a “fusion chef ”. He doesn’t create forcreations sake. Philippe’s own personal style comes from yearsof travel and situational necessity and he recommends that youngchefs don’t worry too much about trying to develop their uniquemethod from the outset but rather approach pastry with an openmind, accumulating knowledge and skills along the way.

“Follow your instincts and pursue your culinary passion. Inorder to be successful, you need to love what you do. And, if youlove pastry, you’ve chosen a noble craft. In the end, we’re all‘merchants of happiness’ in the good sense of the term,” saysPhilippe.

Pandan and Blackberry Financiers

37


Chef in Focus

Hazelnut Praline and Klamansi Cake

39

Philippe学会了实用主义来管理团队，也清楚地意识到他所接受的西式教育有时会和当地文化发生摩擦碰撞。但无论如何，他都非常喜欢这种挑战，同时非常高兴能有机会用自己的热情打动客户，为他们带来之前从未品尝过的传统米兰意大利水果蛋糕或是热带莎莎酱配冰冻焦糖冻糕。

随着泰国等亚洲国家对于美食的普遍欢迎度迅速高涨，Philippe将会轻车熟路地将欧式甜品传统发挥到极致，并倡导异国、本地原料的大量运用。八角茴香巧克力香梨、班兰黑莓金融家小蛋糕，风味蟹乳酪蛋糕**Philippe的作品总能在自有传统和满足客户口味之间取得一种微妙的平衡。

“当地人可能并不熟悉我们所烘焙的各种面包、蛋糕和西点, 但是他们喜欢充满欧风的品质及制作工艺。所以, 在创作新作品的时候，我着重考虑周边环境，还会站在顾客的角度进行思考。一有灵感，我就会把它记下来，也不去计较它看上去是否连贯一致。过了一段时间，我就会发现这些创意确实都可以付诸实践。紧接着就是试吃了，如果口味不尽如人意，我就会把它扔掉。如果口感不错，或是可以作进一步改良，那么这个产品就会登上零售店铺的菜单。”Philippe说道。

Philippe Daue的生活充满着探索和创新。他改良西点的手法非常适用于亚洲这个大环境，但您可千万不要将他简单地归入“融合大厨”之列。他可不是纯粹为了创新而创新。Philippe 的个人风格源自于他多年云游的经历及不可或缺的随机应变能力。他建议年轻的厨师们不要一开始就想法设法发展所谓的独特手法，而是应该以一颗开明之心进行西点创作并不断积累相关知识和技能。

“让本能及美食热情引领你吧。要取得成功，你就必须喜欢自己的工作。而且，如果喜欢西点，那么你就选择了一项崇高的手艺。最终，我们都是彻头彻尾的‘幸福传递者’，”这就是Philippe希望与后辈们分享的心得。

Milanese Panettone


Chef in Focus

Frozen Caramel Parfait on Tropical Salsa

Star Anise Chocolate Pearls

TRADITIONAL MILANESE PANETTONE传统米兰意大利水果蛋糕Yield : 18 pcs of 500 grams each 共18份，每份500克

First Dough 面团一1150g natural starter 天然发酵剂575g sugar 糖920g water 水690g egg yolk 鸡蛋黄575g butter 黄油2300g bread flour 面包面粉23g malt 麦芽

1. Mix the sugar and the water to a cold syrup. Combine thissyrup with the flour and the starter. Knead to a dough for15 minutes.将糖和水混合后制成冷糖浆。将糖浆及面粉、发酵剂混合。将上述混合物揉搓15分钟左右，制成面团。

2. Incorporate the soft butter and then the egg yolks. Keepkneading until a smooth dough is reached. The kneading ofthe first dough should not take more than 25 minutes.在面团中混入软化黄油及鸡蛋黄。不断揉搓直至面团质地均匀细腻。面团一的揉搓时间不可超过25分钟。

3. Cover and leave to ferment for 10-12 hours at 26ºC, or untilthe dough is tripled in size.将面团裹起来，在26摄氏度的环境下发酵10至12分钟或待面团体积膨胀为原来的三倍即可。

Second Dough 面团二290g sugar 糖23g salt 盐690g egg yolk (345 + 345) 鸡蛋黄690克 (分为两份, 每份345克)290g butter (175 + 115) 黄油 (分为两份, 每份175克)230g water 水860g sultanas 无籽葡萄干290g candied orange peel 糖渍橙皮290g candied lemon peel 糖渍柠檬皮1.5 pc grated vanilla stick 碎香草棒1根半5g orange paste 香橙酱3g mandarin paste 桔子酱10g panettone flavoring

1. Add the salt and the flavorings agents to the first doughand knead for about 20 minutes, until the dough is smoothand elastic. Add sugar mixed with half the egg yolks. Keepkneading until a smooth dough is reached.将盐和调味剂混入面团一中，揉搓20分钟，直至面团质地均匀富弹性。取一份鸡蛋黄，加入糖，混合后混入面团中。反复揉搓直至面团质地均匀。

2. Add 175g soft butter and the rest of the egg yolks. Kneadto a silky dough. Make sure to adjust the consistency byadding the water little by little.在面团中加入175克软化黄油及剩下的鸡蛋黄。不断揉搓制止面团表面光滑细致。注意可分批加入少量水调节粘稠度。

3. Pour 115g of melted butter in the mixture, then all the fruit.Knead for another 3-4 minutes at slow speed to evenlydistribute the fruit. Leave the dough to recover for a while.在混合物面团中加入115克融化黄油，然后加入所有的水果原料。再慢慢揉搓3至4分钟，使水果原料均匀分布于面团中。将面团放置一边备用。

4. Scale and divide. Ball up roughly and place on boards. Leaveto proof for about 40 minutes at 28ºC. Knock back andshape to tight balls. Carefully place in the panettone moulds.称量分割。将面团大致揉成球状并放置在加工台面上。在28摄氏度的环境中静置发酵约40分钟。将面球重新加工并紧紧捏成球形。小心仔细地将其放入水果蛋糕模具中。

5. Place in the proofer at 30ºC and 80% RH for about 6-7hours or until the dough reaches the rim of the mould.Lightly cut crosswise with a sharp knife and place a knobof butter on the center of the cuts. Bake 30 minutes in apre-steamed oven at 180ºC (for 500 gr dough) with closedvalve.把模具放入发酵器中, 将温度设定在30摄氏度, 相对湿度为80%,待其发酵6至7小时直至面团膨胀至模具边缘即可取出。用锋利的小刀在面团表面划出十字形刀口并将一小团黄油放在切口的中心位置。将烤炉预热至180摄氏度，放入模具，关闭阀门，烘焙约30分钟（面团重量为500克）。

6. Immediately after baking, turn upside down and stand for10 hours to avoid the sides collapsing. Wrap in air-tightbags, seal and store in a dark and fresh place.烘烤完毕后立刻将模具倒置并放置10个小时以防止边缘部分坍塌。将成品放入密闭包装，密封并保存于阴暗通风处。

SAVORY CRAB CHEESECAKE风味蟹乳酪蛋糕Yield : 30 small muffin moulds 小型松饼状30份

250g bread crumbs 面包脆皮45 g melted butter 融化黄油450g cream cheese 奶油乳酪150g whole egg 整只鸡蛋5g freshly squeezed lemon juice 鲜榨柠檬汁10g finely chopped onion 细洋葱末Tabasco sauce 塔巴斯哥辣酱油Ground black pepper 黑胡椒碎末Salt 盐250g pasteurized crab meat 低温消毒蟹肉

1. For the crumb base, mix the butter with the bread crumbsand arrange a thin layer on the bottom of each mould. Bakefor 10 minutes in an oven at 170ºC.制作面包脆皮底料。将黄油及面包脆皮混合后薄薄地铺在模具的底部。放入170摄氏度的烤炉烘烤10分钟。

2. For the filling: beat the cream cheese and the eggs in a mixeruntil fluffy. Add the lemon juice, the onion, a little Tabasco,pepper and salt and finally the crab meat.制作馅料：将奶油乳酪及鸡蛋放入搅拌机中混合搅打直至蓬松状。加入柠檬汁，洋葱，少量塔巴斯哥辣酱油、黑胡椒和盐，最后放入蟹肉。

3. Divide the mixture in the moulds prepared with crumbs.Place in an oven at 160ºC and bake until done. Allow to coolcompletely, then serve, topped with a dot of sour cream anddecorated with fish egg, chives, sesame seeds and lemon zests.将混合物均匀倒入铺有面包脆皮的模具。将模具放入160摄氏度的烤炉中烤熟。取出后待其完全冷却，装盘，在蛋糕上涂上一点酸奶油并用鱼子、香葱、芝麻及柠檬皮作点缀即可。

Before you begin:

1. Use thick baking paper(or triple the parchmentpaper) and cut to thecorrect shape aroundthe inside of the cakepan and place it in.Make sure that the paper is twice as high as the pan.

2. Sponge. Make the vanilla génoise one day before andkeep it airtight in the freezer. Take it out of the freezerabout 1 hour before use. Then, slice the génoise at 1/2”thick and place the sponge in a lined pan.

3. Preheat the oven to 335˚F/170˚C.

4. Mix and sift flour and cornstarch once and set asidein a bowl.

5. Boil enough water to use for baking at Step 7 (amountof water will vary depending on the size of the bakingpan used).


Asian Fusion

South Koreans are consuming greater quantities of cheese as foods likepizza, cheeseburgers and sandwiches become more popular among theyounger generation.

Over the past 5 years, imports of cheese have grown 68% in Koreaand this trend is expected to continue for the foreseeable future. Thus,local pastry chefs and bakers have to adapt to this growing demand andoffer a wider variety of cheese products.

Publisher’s Note:Successful entrepreneur, award winning author,instructor, international representative and currentPresident of the Korean Bakers Association, ChefKim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazingvisionary in the pastry and baking fusionmovement, Chef Kim marries his classicalEuropean training with his appreciation for Asianingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy ofDream Character, Inc.

Filling: 馅料63g (2 ounces) American cheese 美国乳酪70g (1/4 cup) unsalted butter 无盐黄油80ml heavy cream 高脂奶油115ml milk 牛奶50g (1.7 ounces) all-purpose flour 中筋面粉1 tablespoon cornstarch 玉米淀粉5 egg yolks 鸡蛋量的蛋黄1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract 香草提取物八分之一茶匙5 egg whites 鸡蛋量的鸡蛋白95g (3.3 ounces) sugar 糖

Sponge: 海绵蛋糕one 7” (18cm) vanilla génoise7寸 (直径为18厘米) 的香草意式海绵蛋糕一只

Topping: 装饰物1/2 cup nappage 镜面糖釉二分之一杯

随着匹萨、乳酪汉堡、三明治等食品在韩国年轻一代中的日渐流行，韩国人对于乳酪的消耗量也日益增长。

在过去的五年中，韩国的乳酪进口量增长了百分之六十八，据预计，在不久的将来这一增长势头仍将继续。因而，当地的西点大厨和烘焙师必须提供更多元化的乳酪产品以满足大众日益增长的消费需求。

1. 将厚烘焙纸（也可将羊皮纸三折后）沿着蛋糕烤盘的内壁切成适当形状并放入烤盘。注意，羊皮纸的高度必须是烤盘高度的两倍。

开始前的准备工作：

2. 海绵蛋糕。提前一天制作好香草意式海绵蛋糕，将其放入密闭容器并放进冰箱冷藏。在开始制作前的一小时取出海绵蛋糕。然后，将意式海绵蛋糕切片（厚约二分之一寸）。在蛋糕烤盘上铺上羊皮纸并放入海绵蛋糕片。

3. 将烤盘预热至335华氏度/170摄氏度。

4. 将面粉及玉米淀粉混和筛匀后放入碗中静置一边备用。

5. 取足量水，加热至煮沸，为第七步**烘焙步骤做好准备（注意，用水量随所使用烤盘的大小不同略有增减）。

43

Steps:

1. Filling. Add cheese, unsalted butter, heavy cream, and milk in apot and boil at high heat. Keep whisking to melt and mix all theingredients together.

2. Turn the heat down to medium. Add sifted flour and cornstarchand keep whisking.

3. The picture demonstrates how the batter changes its thickness asyou cook over the heat. When the batter becomes thick and creamy,transfer it to a bowl.

4. Add half of the whisked egg yolks at a time and keep whisking.Add vanilla extract and mix in.

5. In a separate bowl, make a meringue using the egg whites andsugar. This soufflé needs a stiff meringue. Add 1/4 of the meringueto the batter first and mix in using a rubber spatula. Then, addthe rest of the meringue half at a time and mix.

6. Place the prepared cake pan inside the large baking pan. Pour thebatter into the cake pan (fill to the top of the pan, not the top ofthe baking paper).

1. 2.

3b.

5a. 5b.

3a.

4.3c.

步骤：

1. 制作馅料。将乳酪、无盐黄油、高脂奶油及牛奶放入锅中以高火加热煮沸。加热过程中不断搅拌直至所有原料融化混和均匀。

2. 将火势调低至中火。加入筛匀的面粉及玉米淀粉并不断搅拌。

3. 下面的图片说明了在加热过程中面糊粘稠度的改变过程。待面糊呈粘稠奶糊状即可将其倒入碗中。

4. 将鸡蛋黄搅拌均匀后分两次加入混和物中并不断搅拌。然后加入香草提取物，搅拌均匀。

5. 另取一碗，放入蛋白及糖，制成蛋白甜霜。制作此蛋白酥所用的蛋白甜霜质地较为粘稠。先将四分之一的蛋白甜霜倒入面糊混和物中，然后用橡胶抹刀进行搅拌。随后分两次将剩下的蛋白甜霜加入混和物中并搅拌均匀。

6. 将准备好的蛋糕烤盘放入大号烘焙盘中。将奶糊倒入蛋糕盘中 (注意，液面高度应与烤盘高度而非烘焙纸高度保持水平)。

7. Bake. Pour boiling water around the cake pan up to about1/2” high and put in the oven right away. Bake at335˚F/170˚C for 90 minutes.

8. After the initial baking time is finished, increase the oventemperature to 390˚F/200˚C and bake an additional 3-4minutes to get the light brown color on top of the soufflé.Check the oven a few times after you increase the oventemperature to see the color because the time may vary.Remove the cake pan from the water but leave the souffléin the cake pan while cooling on a cooling rack. After itcools down completely, remove the soufflé from the cakepan and place it on a plate. Brush the nappage over thetop, and it is ready to be served!

7. 8.


6.

*Recipe from A Collection of Fine Baking (ISBN: 0976554305) by Young MoKim Winner of Gourmand Intl. Cookbook Award 2005 Best Dessert Book inthe World.

Asian Fusion

7. 烘焙。将先前加热煮沸的水倒在烤盘周围，液面高度约为二分之一寸，并将烤盘立刻放入烤箱中。在华氏335度/170摄氏度的温度下烘焙90分钟。

8. 待首次加热完成后，将烤炉温度调高至华氏390度/摄氏200度，再烘烤3到4分钟，这样蛋白酥表皮色泽即呈浅棕。由于烘焙时间可能因种种原因而有所差异，因此调高炉内温度后应反复查看以观察烘焙物色泽。将蛋糕烤盘从水中取出，但不要将蛋白酥从烤盘中取出，随后将烤盘放在冷却架上冷却。待烘焙物完全冷却后，将蛋白酥从蛋糕烤盘中取出并放入盘中。在蛋糕表面上刷上一层镜面糖釉即可享用！

* 本食谱选自 Young Mo Kim 著《精美烘焙荟萃》一书

(ISBN: 0976554305) 该书曾荣获美食国际烹饪书籍大奖2005全球最

佳甜品书籍奖。

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A S I A P A C I F I C

From Tokyo to Sydney, Mumbai to Manila,Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific has you covered.

Part 1: Recipe and Stencils


PastillageSugar Arts

Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert inmodern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitorand instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of PastryArts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)

Sugar Recipe 糖配料16 g leaf gelatin 明胶页132 g water 水150 g corn starch 玉米淀粉850 g powdered sugar 糖霜

Pastillage Recipe 糖黏土配料

Equipment 所用器具Scale 秤Bowl 碗Marble 大理石Stencils 镂花型板Chef’s Knife 厨师刀X-ACTO 修补刀片Microwave 微波炉Shifter 筛子

Showpiece

Pastillage, pronounced PAHS-tee-AHJ, is a highly versatilesugar-based dough, excellent for decorating and creatingshowpiece work.

The formula below is best to mix by hand. If you usea machine, more air will be incorporated into the pastillagewhich makes it difficult to cut out small, intricate pieces.It is much easier to work with dough that is tight, has littleair and is very fresh. The longer it sits the tougher andmore difficult it becomes. This recipe is elastic and greatfor bending thin smooth pieces.

1. Scale out 16g of gold leaf gelatin using a digital scale.

2. Cut the gelatin with scissors into small pieces over a liquidmeasuring pitcher.

Pastillage (糖黏土)，读作 Pahs-tee-AHJ，是一种多用途

的加糖面团，为装饰西点或制作美食作品之必备良品。

以下配方最好能以手工方式混和加工。如选用机器进行

加工，则会在糖黏土中混入较多空气，成品会因此难以切

割成精细复杂的形状。质地紧实，几乎不含气泡的新鲜糖

黏土加工起来更为方便。其放置的时间越长，则越硬，加

工起来也越困难。利用以下的食谱您可以制成富有弹性的

糖黏土，也可方便地将其弯折成均匀细块。

1. 用电子秤称量出16克金色明胶页。2. 用剪刀将明胶页剪成小片，放入液体量杯中。

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3. Pour 132g of cold water over the leafgelatin and allow to bloom for fiveminutes.

4. In a stainless steel bowl, scale out 150gof corn starch and 850g of powderedsugar.

5. Pour the cornstarch and powdered sugarinto a fine metal sieve. Sift this mixtureover a piece of parchment paper toremove any possible lumps.

6. Place the bloomed gelatin into themicrowave to melt the gelatin completely.

7. Create a well in the center of thepowdered sugar and corn starch mixturewith a spoon and pour the melted gelatininto the well.

8. Mix just to combine the ingredients.

9. Pour the flaky mixture onto a cleanmarble surface. The dough will be verysticky to start. Use a metal bench scraperto gather the ingredients together andform a dough.

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3. 将132克冷水倒入盛有明胶页的量杯，静置五分钟待其发开。

4. 取一不锈钢碗，量取150克玉米淀粉及850克糖霜。

5. 将玉米淀粉及糖霜倒入金属细筛中。取一张烘焙羊皮纸垫在筛子下方，将混和物筛匀，除去结块物。

6. 将发开的明胶页放入微波炉中加热，使明胶完全熔化。

7. 用调羹在玉米淀粉和糖霜混和物的中心位置挖出一个凹洞并将熔化的明胶倒入洞中。

8. 将原料混和均匀。

9. 将片状混和物倒在干净的大理石表面。一开始面团较为粘稠。用台式刮刀将混和物聚拢并制成团状。


Sugar Arts

10. Knead the dough into a ball. Cover the pastillage tightly withplastic to prevent the surface from drying. Work with smallamounts of dough as you go.

11. Use corn starch instead of powdered sugar to roll out pastillage. Corn starch will keep the surface smoother. Make a beggarspurse out of cloth and fill it with corn starch. This will allowyou to dust the surface more easily and effectively. Roll outsmall pieces to ensure the dough doesn’t dry out. Move thedough around while rolling so the pastillage doesn’t stick to therolling pin or table. After rolling out the pastillage, smooth outthe surface with the palm of your hand.

12. Prepare stencil cut outs with sturdy materials like card stock orheavy duty plastic. Shapes can vary.

13. Place stencil cut outs onto the pastillage. Hold the stencil firmlydown and begin cutting the shapes using an x-acto blade.

14. Carefully remove each cut out piece of pastillage from the table.

15. Using a porous surface like Styrofoam will allow the pastillageto dry faster because air is trapped between the contact surfaces.Wooden boards are also very good for drying pastillage becausethey are also porous and allow the humidity to escape.

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15.10. 将面团捏成球状。在做好的糖黏土表面紧紧地裹上一层

塑料膜防止表面收干。每次制作的面团量少为宜。

11. 不选用糖霜，而是在糖黏土表面撒上玉米淀粉并将其碾

平。玉米淀粉可以保持面团表面平整光滑。取一块布，

制成乞丐钱袋状的小口袋并装满玉米淀粉，这样就可以

方便快速地将玉米淀粉洒在表面了。每次只将小块糖黏

土碾平以防止整个面团干裂。碾平时必须不断翻动以防

止其粘连于加工台或擀面杖表面。将糖黏土擀平成型

后，用手掌将其表面揉压平整。

12. 用厚卡纸或者重型塑料等结实材料制成镂花型板。形状

可按需调整。

13. 将镂花型板放在糖黏土上。将型板牢牢固定在糖黏土表

面并用X-ACTO修补刀片将糖黏土切割成型。

14. 小心地从加工台上移去切下的糖黏土块。

15. 利用如苯乙烯泡棉等材料制成的多孔透气表面可使糖黏

土更快地收干，因为糖黏土和多空表面的接触面之间可

封存部分空气。木制面板对于收干糖黏土也非常有效，

因为木制面板表面也富含小孔，可散去湿气。

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16. If a texture is desired, roll out the pastillage on a texturedsurface like plexi-glass, wall paper, silicon mats or texturedrolling pins. Here, I am using plexi-glass.

17. Free hand cutting is an option for cutting pastillage. Use asharp chef ’s knife to cut out shapes like triangles or squares.

18. If you want to soften the edges of a cut out, you can use around cutter to cut out portions from the sides of this triangle.

19. Roll out a piece of pastillage into a log. Use a round cakeboard to roll a smooth tube-like rod. It works best if thereis no cornstarch is on the table.

Next issue Part II… more shapes and assembly!

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20. Shape the rods into swirls and curls onto Styrofoam andallow drying.

21. Use a round cutter as a guide to form round curls. Allowthe curls and rods to dry over night for best results.

16. 如要制作具有纹理效果的表面，则可将糖黏土放置在有机玻璃、墙纸、硒力康胶垫等有纹理的面板上加工，也可以用带有纹理的擀面棒进行加工。以下我选用的是有机玻璃面板。

17. 在加工糖黏土时也可选用徒手切割的方法。取一把锋利的厨师刀即可切割出三角形或正方形的糖黏土。

18. 如需在所切出的糖黏土边缘制造柔和的效果，则可选用圆形切割器切除三角形边线上的部分糖黏土。

19. 将一块糖黏土滚成原木状。用圆形蛋糕包装纸卷滚出一条光滑的管状糖黏土杆。如将加工台表面的玉米淀粉清除干净再加工则制作效果更佳。

20. 将管装糖黏土制成螺旋状并卷在苯乙烯泡棉上, 待其收干。

21. 取一圆形切割器，逐步切割出圆形螺旋。将糖黏土螺旋及管状糖黏土静置过夜待其收干，以达到最佳效果。

下期的杂志中我们将为您带来本次连载的第二部分，届时将为大家奉上更多形状设计及组合方法！

Contact Numbers:

Australia: 1800 633 275China: (86 21) 5211 0999Hong Kong: (852) 2958 1333Indonesia: 806206018005Korea: +86-2-6001-3773

Malaysia: 1-800 88 3122New Zealand: 0800 cheese (243 373)Philippines: 1800 888 7799Singapore: 1800 777 3005Taiwan: 886-2-265 88658

email: [email protected]

PC99

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Anchor Whipping Cream.Our natural pure dairy taste will ensure your customers keep coming back.

Is your thinking fresh?

The lush green New Zealand environment ensures Anchor whipping cream consistently performs and has all the benefi ts of a pure, natural dairy taste that your customers will love.

Because at Fonterra we believe dairy is the key to driving bakery growth.

Contact Numbers:

Australia: 1800 633 275China: (86 21) 5211 0999Hong Kong: (852) 2958 1333Indonesia: 806206018005Korea: +86-2-6001-3773

Malaysia: 1-800 88 3122New Zealand: 0800 cheese (243 373)Philippines: 1800 888 7799Singapore: 1800 777 3005Taiwan: 886-2-265 88658

email: [email protected]

PC99

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Anchor Whipping Cream.Our natural pure dairy taste will ensure your customers keep coming back.

Is your thinking fresh?

The lush green New Zealand environment ensures Anchor whipping cream consistently performs and has all the benefi ts of a pure, natural dairy taste that your customers will love.

Because at Fonterra we believe dairy is the key to driving bakery growth.


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

Tools: 工具Chef Rubber Spatula 大厨橡胶抹刀Offset Spatula 煎铲Marble Slab 大理石板

Ingredients: 配料White Chocolate 白巧克力Crimson Cocoa Butter 枣红色可可脂

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Organization and moving quicklyyields dramatic results

1. Lightly drizzle a small quantity of red-colored cocoa butteronto the surface of the pure white chocolate.在纯白巧克力表面轻轻淋上少量的枣红色可可脂。

2. Gently swirl with rubber spatula.用橡胶抹刀轻轻旋开。

迅速造型并脱模，成品效果绝佳

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3. Place marble slab in freezer for one hour.Pour small quantity onto frozen marble slab.

将大理石板放入冷冻室冷藏约一小时。

在冰冻后的大理石板上倒上少量原料。

4. Quickly spread with offset spatula into a thin rectangular-shaped layer.

迅速用煎铲将原料刮成长方形薄层。

5. Use knife to cut into a rectangular band.

用刀将原料切成长条状长方形块。

6. Remove excess chocolate and discard.

除去多余的巧克力。

7. Prepare raspberry mousse timbale.

准备好一份覆盆子慕丝香烤三味。

8. Quickly remove rectangular chocolate from marble slaband quickly form into a cylinder around mousse timbale.

迅速将长方形巧克力从大理石块表面取下并立刻放入装有慕

丝香烤三味的柱形容器。

9. Scrunch top. Garnish as desired.

敲碎表面。按个人喜好进行装饰即可。

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Chocolate Love

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AS Gelato tra.indd 1AS Gelato tra.indd 1 4-09-2007 10:53:054-09-2007 10:53:05

Wild Sweets

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information, visit www.dcduby.com


FLOATING FRUIT SOUP & MALTO CRUNCH漂浮水果汤配麦芽糖脆片

Malto Crunch 麦芽糖脆片

120 g Maltodextrin* 麦芽糖糊精30 g Icing sugar 糖霜60 g Pistachio, roasted 香烤开心果3 Egg Whites 鸡蛋量的蛋白45 g Vanilla Oil 香草油

*This recipe is tested with MALTO Elements by DC DUBY,other maltodextrin may be substituted but results may differ.* 以上菜谱选用的是DC DUBY 品牌的 MALTO Elements产品，您也可选用其他品牌的麦芽糖糊精，但成品品质可能有所差异。

Various compounds called Gums have recently become increasingly popularin modern cuisine. Gums are derived from plants and are generally complexcarbohydrates made of different sugar molecules. They are used as thickeners,emulsifiers and sometime as gelling agents. In the health food industry,they are used as a fat substitute by providing the “mouth feel” of fat, butwithout the calories.

Typically sauces and cream type preparations are thickened withcornstarch or flour through a process called gelatinization whereby thestarch and liquid are heated to the boiling point and cooked for a certainamount of time in order for the starch granules to swell and thicken theliquid. The disadvantage of this process is that typically larger amount ofthickener must be added, which affects the final taste of the product. Theliquid must also be boiled which increases the loss of volatile aromas.Conversely, unlike starches minute amounts of gums are required due totheir very high viscosity / thickening properties resulting in a ‘clean’preparation with its original distinct flavours left unaltered by the flavour,texture and mouth feel of added starch.

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XANTHAN – Part 1

各种名称里带个“胶”字的原料近来在流行菜式中日益风行起来。这些胶质物是从植物中提取的，其成分通常为多种糖分子构成的复合糖，可用作增稠剂、乳化剂，有时也用作胶凝剂。在健康食品领域，胶质物被用作脂肪的替代品 — 它既可产生脂肪般的口感，又不含卡路里。

一般说来，我们都会选用玉米淀粉或面粉通过一种叫做“凝胶化”的处理来使各种酱料或奶油类调配剂变得粘稠。通过上述处理，淀粉或液体经加热达到沸点，在经过一段时间的加热后，淀粉微粒就会膨胀并使得液体变粘稠。这一处理方法的缺点在于一般需要加入大量的增稠剂，而这会影响到成品的最终口感。且在这一过程中必须将液体煮沸，这样就会使挥发性的香味更易流失。相反地，与使用淀粉不同，由于胶质物的高粘稠度/增稠性质，加工时只需要添加极少量的胶质就可以形成透亮的调配剂，且可在不受所添加的淀粉口味、质地及口感影响的情况下保留其原有的独特风味。

In a food processor, combine the MALTO, icing sugar, pistachioand blend until the pistachios are finely ground. Transfer mixtureinto a bowl, add remaining ingredients and mix until well combinedwith a spatula. Transfer mixture back into the food processor andmix briefly until the mixture is smooth and homogenous. Spreadthe mixture on a silicon mat [for best results use a template], andbake in a microwave oven at the lowest heat setting forapproximately 3 to 5 minutes or until crisp.

将MALTO麦芽糊精、糖霜、开心果分别加入食品加工机中并混合搅打制止研磨成细腻碎末。将混合物倒入碗中,将剩下的原料全部倒入其中并用抹刀搅拌均匀。将混合物重新倒回食品加工机中并稍加搅拌直至混合物质地均匀平滑。将混合物涂抹在硒力康胶垫表面 (为达到最佳效果，请选用刮板)并放入微波炉中以最低火力烘烤约3至5分钟，直至成品呈脆片状。

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Floating Fruit ‘Soup’ 漂浮水果汤

500 mL Apple or other clear fruit juice 苹果汁或其他透明果汁1.25 mL Xanthan* 黄原胶15 mL Honey or to taste 蜂蜜 (或按个人口味适量选用)Zest of 1 lemon 取一只柠檬的表皮备用Lemon Verbena, 2-3 leaves 柠檬马鞭草Amaretto, to taste 爱莫莱托利口酒适量

*This recipe is tested with XAGUM Elements by DC DUBY,other xanthan may be substituted but results may differ.*以上菜谱选用的是 DC DUBY 品牌的 XAGUM Elements 产品，

您也可选用其他品牌的黄原胶，但成品品质可能有所差异。

Place the apple juice in a tall and narrow container. Add theXAGUM and blend with an immersion blender until allcombined. Add the remaining ingredients and let the mixturesit and infuse in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or untilit becomes ‘clear’ again. Strain and discard the solids. Whenready to serve, pour some fruit ‘soup’ in a vessel of yourchoice and add pieces of fresh fruits so that they remain in‘suspension’. Serve at once with a few pieces of Malto Crunch.

将苹果汁放入一细长容器中。加入黄原胶并用手动搅拌机加以搅拌直至两者完全融合。将剩余的原料加入果汁中并将混合物放入冰箱中静置至少两个小时，直至其恢复清澈状质地。过滤果汁并滤去固体结块物。待装盘时，依个人喜好选用容器，将水果汤倒入其中并加入数块新鲜水果以制造出“水果悬于汤中”的效果。配上数片麦芽糖脆片即可食用。


Wild Sweets

The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals.Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results.

Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques.

Step by step instruction from our world-renownedpanel of Guest Contributors.

Truly regional coverage of hard working professionalswho share their experiences, stories and advice.

Complimentary online site for recipe archives andeducational videos.

Subscribe online atwww.PastryNA.com

introducing...Pastry&baking

N O R T H A M E R I C A

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Hungry Eyes food [email protected]

World Chocolate Master!


Competition

After three days of fierce competition, Naomi Mizuno of Japan stoodalone as the 2007 champion of the World Chocolate Masters.

By S1GPhotos courtesy of WCM

Naomi Mizuno

经过三天的激烈竞争，来自日本的水野直己脱颖而出，摘得2007世界巧克力大师赛冠军头衔。

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Naomi Mizuno’s award winningchocolate showpiece ‘Tengu’


Competition

world’s greatest chocolate craftsmen took part in theinternational final, which had the theme of “National Mythsand Legends”.

The road to victory was long, with the competitors firsthaving to win their national selection heats earlier in the yearto gain a place in the grand final.

Throughout the competition the contestants thoroughlydemonstrated the mastery of their art in front of a jury ofexperts headed by Francisco Torreblanca, the master Spanishchocolatier. The tension increased throughout the three daysof the competition as spectators packed the venue and watched,awestruck, from the public galleries at the amazing technicalskills and dexterity of the chefs who created delicious worksof art.

“The World Chocolate Masters is a top level competitionfor chocolate craftsmen from all over the world. The purposeis to offer these people a forum to showcase their skills withchocolate. Creativity with chocolate is key! In the entirecompetition, original approaches in the recipes and aspects ofall creations were highly appreciated by the jury,” offered PhilippeJanvier, Vice President Sales & Marketing Gourmet DivisionBarry Callebaut Europe.

Naomi Mizuno was declared the Winner of the WorldChocolate Masters 2007, with Yvonnick Le Maux (France) andCarmelo Sciampagna (Italy) taking second and third place.Winners shared a prize package of 100,000 Euros and ChefNaomi was presented a trophy specially created by leading DutchDesigner Rob Verhoeven. Furthermore, Naomi Mizuno receivedspecial awards for his chocolate pastry and for his creativechocolate showpiece. Yvonnick Le Maux was awarded for hispralines and Carmelo Sciampagna received an award for hisgastronomic chocolate dessert.

T he second World Chocolate Masters took place atthe first Salon du Chocolat Professionnel held inParis from October 20 – 22, 2007. Twenty of the

From left: Paul Halliwell, Paco Torreblanca, Pol Deschepper, Onno Bleeker, Camelo Sciampagna,Naomi Mizuno, Yvonnick Le Maux, Philippe Janvier, Patrick De Maeseneire, Beau Netzer and Eric Martinet

Le ResultsPrize

WorldChocolateMaster

2nd Place

3rd Place

ChocolatePastryAward

ChocolateShowpieceAward

PralinesAward

ChocolateDessertAward

Contestant

Naomi Mizuno

Country

Japan

Yvonnick LeMaux

France

CarmeloSciampagna

Italy

Naomi Mizuno Japan

Yvonnick LeMaux

France

CarmeloSciampagna

Italy

Naomi Mizuno Japan

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Without a doubt, the most interesting creation of the wholecompetition was Naomi’s chocolate showpiece entitled “Tengu”.In Japan, Tengu are a class of supernatural creatures found infolklore, theater, and literature. They are one of the best knownyokai (monster-spirits) and are sometimes worshipped as spiritsor gods. Although they take their name from a dog-like demon,the Tengu were originally thought to take the forms of birds ofprey, and they are traditionally depicted with both human andavian characteristics. The earliest Tengu were pictured with beaks,but this feature has often been humanized as an unnaturally longnose, which today is practically the Tengu's defining characteristicin the popular imagination.

As Naomi Mizuno raised his trophy and held his check, itwas readily apparent the mild mannered chef was the crowdfavorite and even his competitors were happy for him. Here isan interview with Chef Naomi shortly after he arrived back inJapan to a hero’s welcome:

P&B NA: First off, congratulations on being crowned WorldChocolate Master 2007. How does it feel?NM: Incredible. From the winning moment on the podium andonce again when I arrived back to my hometown, it is still hardto believe especially when I see all the happy faces of mysupporters, colleagues and friends.

P&B NA: Tell us about your World Chocolate Master journey.NM: The competitors were an amazing array of internationaltalent that forced me to be at my best. From the beginning, Ifollowed my plan. What helped a lot was the overallprofessionalism of the WCM organization that made thecompetition extremely comfortable and stress free. This allowedme to concentrate and really enjoy the whole experience.

Carmelo Sciampagna’s winning dessert

终极之战。通往成功的道路着实漫长 — 参赛者必须首先赢得当年先行举

行的国内预选赛才能获得参加终极大战的资格。比赛过程中，面对由西班牙巧克力大师Francisco Torreblanca

领衔的专家评审团，参赛者们都充分展现了自己所掌握的精湛巧克力技艺。在为期三天的赛程中，竞赛现场人头攒动，观众们在公共欣赏区观看比赛，并深深折服于现场创作美味艺术品的大厨所表现出来的惊人技艺及灵巧动作，这也使得大赛日趋激烈。

“世界巧克力大师赛是面向全球巧克力能手们的一场顶级赛事。该赛事旨在为这些能工巧匠提供一个展示其巧克力技艺的场所。利用巧克力进行创新才是关键所在！在整个比赛过程中，原料方面及作品创作各处所闪现的原创光辉都得到了评审团的高度评价。”Barry Callebaut 欧洲美食部销售市场副总监 PhilippeJanvier 如此评说。

评审会宣布水野直己为2007年度世界巧克力大师赛的冠军，而亚军和季军则分别由来自法国的Yvonnick Le Maux 及来自意大利的 Carmelo Scriampagna 夺得。三位获奖者共享高达100，000欧元的奖金，大赛举办方同时授予水野大厨一尊由荷兰一流设计师 Rob Verhoeven 特别创作的奖杯。除此之外，水野直己还凭借自己的巧克力西点及创意巧克力展示作品荣获特别大奖。而Yvonnick Le Maux 则凭借杏仁糖勇获殊荣，Carmelo Sciampagna的美食巧克力甜点也为他赢得了一个奖项。

007年10月20日至22日, 第二届世界巧克力大师赛于巴黎巧克力专业沙龙揭开帷幕。20 位世界级顶尖巧克力名家参与了这场以“民族神话及传奇”为主题的全球巧克力2

记者：首先祝贺您在2007年度世界巧克力大师赛上一举夺冠。获

得冠军的感觉如何？

水野：感到难以置信。从踏上领奖台的那一刻起我就不敢相信

这一切，回到祖国后这种感觉又一次袭来，尤其是当我看到我

的支持者、同事和朋友洋溢着快乐的笑脸时，我简直不敢相信

自己的确得奖了。

记者：能说说您的世界巧克力大师赛之旅么？

水野：现场汇集了一大群全球巧克力天才，这促使我必须全力

以赴。一开始，我便根据自己的计划进行创作。世界巧克力大

师赛组委会表现出了极高的整体专业素质，为整场比赛营造出

一种极度舒适的零压力环境，使我受益匪浅。这样我才能够完

全专著于比赛并真正享受整个过程。

记者：您是否也在某一刻感到惊人的压力呢？

水野：当然！尤其是我在开赛前一刻曾和我妻子交谈，她提醒

我，我这可是代表日本出战。她最后对我说的一句话是：“可

别输啊。”

记者：能谈谈您是如何备战的吗？

水野：在练习的过程中，我共制作了10个作品。每次都将其做

得更大，更复杂。过去我倾向于制作更能吸引人眼球的大型作

品，但在最后一刻，我听取了日本评审团代表Oyama先生及好友

— 2005年世界巧克力大师赛季军获得者 Kouichi Izumi 的建议。

他们认为我应该专注于将作品做得更小巧精致一些, 注重作品外

表并尽量降低作品坍塌的危险系数。

至于杏仁糖和甜点，我利用高品质的毛胚进行创作，力求稳

健。我并没有使用日本特有的原料，而是选用了在全球各地接

受度都较高的材料以便营造一种更加国际化的口味。

记者：回日本后，大家对您的成功作何反响？

水野：我得家人，朋友和同事都非常为我感到高兴。我还有一

项意外的收获**我的学生突然之间学习态度大变，听课的时候

更专心了。

记者：您接下来有什么打算？能说说2008年的目标吗？

水野：我一直不断学习并期望能为提升日本巧克力艺术家的水

准、提高巧克力在国际食品界的地位贡献自己的一份力量。

P&B NA: Were there any moments of incredible pressure?NM: Yes! Especially when I spoke to my wife just before the startof the competition and she reminded me that I was representingJapan. Her last words were “don’t lose”.

P&B NA: Tell us about your preparation for the event.NM: During practice, I made the showpiece 10 times. Each time,the showpiece got bigger and more sophisticated. In the past, I’veseen a tendency for larger, more attention grabbing showpieces butat the last moment, I followed the advice of our jury representativeMr. Oyama and my good friend Kouichi Izumi who took 3rd placein the 2005 WCM. They recommended that I focus on making theshowpiece smaller and more delicate, concentrating on the beautyand minimizing the chance of a collapse.

For the pralines and dessert, I tried to score evenly by makinghigh-quality finished forms. I didn’t use Japanese specificingredients but rather ingredients easily obtained anywhere inthe world to put forth a more international taste profile.

P&B NA: What has been the reaction to your success backhome in Japan?NM: All my family, friends and professional colleagues are sohappy for me. An added benefit is that my students suddenlychanged their attitudes and became more attentive to my lessons.

P&B NA: So where next? What are goals in 2008?NM: I am always learning and looking to play my part inincreasing the level of Japanese chocolatiers and increase thepositioning of chocolate in the world food market.


Competition

Yvonnick Le Maux’swinning pralines

Chef Morel’schocolate cake

Canadian RepresentativeChristophe Morel

Victory!

毫无疑问，水野大厨所创作的名为“天狗”的巧克力作品是整个比赛中最富趣味的。在日本，天狗是一种在民间传说、戏曲艺术及文学作品中出现的神秘生物。天狗是最著名的一种Yokai（妖怪），人们有时会将它们当成神灵或鬼魂来供奉。虽然天狗的名字来源于一种酷似狗的中国鬼怪，但日本人独具创意地将天狗视作一种具有猛禽外表的生物，在当地的传统中，它们被描述成一种同时具备人类及鸟类特征的妖怪。最早的天狗形象带有喙，但是人们通常将这一特征拟化为一条长得惊人的鼻子，现在这也成了人们所熟知的天狗形象的一个标志性特征。

水野直己高举奖杯，手握支票之时，这位温文尔雅的大厨显然已成为了众人的宠儿，就连他的竞争对手都为他高兴。水野大厨荣归故里即受到了英雄式的欢迎，在这位大厨回日本后不久，本刊便对他进行了采访：

69

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