( PARTICIPATORY APPROACH TO BEACH TOURISM IN

VARKALA

( B. VIJAYAKUl\1AR

(

(

Project Report Sponsored by the EQUATIONS, Bangalore

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Words are inadequate to express gratitude to the heartful co-operation

and participation extended by the people of Varkala for the successful

completion of this work. ] can recollect a good number of faces but can

name only a few - Mr.Babu, Sr.Lecturer, Govt. College Pattambi, Mrs.Leela,

the ward member, Mr.Mukundan, Mr.Rasheed, Mr.Sanjeev, Mr.Sujith .... the

list is incomplete. I am deeply indebted to them.

Dr.P.N.Sankaran, Reader, University College deserves special thanks

for his constructive suggestions. The involvement and co-operation shown

by Mr.Rajasekharan Pill ai, the project Assistant is invaluable. Thnaks are also

due to Mr.Robin, Mr.Subrahmaniam and Mr. Sunil John.

The initiative and enthusiasm shown by the EQUATIONS, is the real

driving force behind this venture. I am thankful to Mr.K.T. Suresh and

Mr.Hari Babu for their support and whole hearted co-operation. Once again

] thank all the participants and informants for their valuable suggestions.

B.VIJAYA KUMAR

25.04.2000. Trivandnun.

CONTENTS

Page No.

Acknolwledgements

Introduction 1

Chapter I Tourism in Varkala: An overview 5

Chapter II Approach to the study l5

Chapter III Peoples Action For Tourism 24

ChpaterIV Conclusion 4l

References 43

1

INTRODUCfION

Tourism, the multifaceted industry, has intruded into human activity deeply

that neither the elite nor the downtrodden is spared off its impacts. No

industry has so much interlinkages with economic, social, cultural and

environmental spheres than tourism. The world wide acceptance of

tourism industry is chiefly attributed to its capacity to generate foreign

exchange, employment and income, by increasingly making use of the

natural endowments. "But the growth of the industry raises a spectre of

destruction of traditional life style, new colonialist relationship of

exploitation and over dependence upon an unreliable single industry and

inflation". Since most of the tourism attractions, are 'common' for which

no individual or agency has specific responsibility, the inevitability of the

'tragedy of the common' follows. Mass tourism destinations have

already exhibited the growth of tourism along this line and has created

certain irrepairable, formidable and hannful impacts to the host community

in general, as well as the guest in particular. The ever spreading

globalisation and concommitant commercialization have added fuel to

fire by making tourism a most fashionable industry ofthe 21 st century.

While steps are initiated to exploit and export nature's bounty through web

sites, there is growing concern for the environmental catastrophe, social

ill health and unfair trade practices of the tourism industry. The growth

and development of a destination passes through various stages like

euphoria, apathy, irritation, antagonism as Doxey (1976) rightly put it

2

and reaches its zenith where environment changes irreversibly, resource

base and tourist type changes.

The socio cultural impacts 0 f tourism is manifested through the

changes in the value system, individual behaviour, family relationship

collective life styles, safety levels, moral conduct, creative expressions,

traditional ceremonies and community organization. Wolf (1972) states

that socio-cultural impacts are people's impacts; they are about - the

effects on the people of host communities their direct and indirect

association with tourists. Literature on the social impacts of tourism

(Alister, 1982) usually considers interpersonal relations moral conduct,

religion and language.

Commercialisation of culture is one of the most deternent

consequences ofmass tourism. With increasing exposure to the outside

world, local cultures have become 'pseudo-native "their cultures becoming

more closely integrated with that of the surrounding majority". The arts

and crafts ofnative people have changed in style and form and also in the

purpose for which they are produced. Tourism has been accused ofbeing

culturally 'arrogant' for manipulating the traditions and customs ofpeople

to make tourist experience more interesting and satisfying. The

attractions usually display only a small and superficial part of local

culture. Cultural arrogance is also displayed by tourist developers and

promoters. Even in architectural style and activities at the destination,

the western domination prevails.

3

The latest and major casualty of mass tourism is the

environment. Environment includes not only land, air, water, flora and

fauna but also encompasses people, their creations and the social,

economic and cultural conditions that influence their lives.

Since widespread growth of mass tourism is experienced mainly

in beach resorts, they fall an easy prey to all negative impacts to

tourism growth. Growth and development of tourism resorts along

the coastal lines in the developing world create a large number of

Issues. To start with it interferes with the traditional mode of

living. Locals are forced to vacate their homeland for tourism

purpose. The aftermath of unregulated growth ofbeach tourism is

the alienation of the residents in their own land. As business

progresses, the locals are being pushed back by the tourism

industrialist and the former is placed between the devil and deep

sea, as they are destined to embrace all negative impacts. Once

the destination is socially, culturally and environmentally exploited

and deteriorated the business will gradually shift to new and

unspoilt areas where history repeats. In this context it is highly

imperative to search for an alternative in which the stake holders

have a 'say' in tourism development A self regulated mechanism

manned by the locals can contribute much in this direction. The present

study is a modest attempt to frame an action plan for tourism

development in Varkala with peoples participation. Varkala, the

Sanctum sanctorum of pilgrimage is today gaining popularity as a

4

tourist centre and one cannot simply ignore the slowly emerging

ripples of mass tourism.

The present study is structured into four chapters. A brief overview

ofVarkala including tOllfism activity is given in the first chapter. The

second chapter, approach to study-gives more emphasis to methodology.

The analysis of PRA meeting is provided in the third chapter. General

conclusion and observations are given in the last chapter.

5

CHAPTER 1

VARKALA -AN OVERVIEW

Varkala, popularly known as the southern Kasi' is situated 54Km North west

ofThiruvananthapuram, the capital city ofKeralam. The coastal land is a

magic blend of scenic beauty interwomen with sanctity, mythology and

history. For it is the abode of 2000 years old Janardana Swamy Temple,

Sivagiri Mutt-the sacred Samathi of Sree Narayana Guru the renounced

social reformer of the century and the Papanasam beach where thousands

gather to pay obsequies to their late forefathers. Varkala is a moderate tropical

climate region. Like any other part ofKeralam, Varkala has also frequent

monsoons. These are mostly South West monsoons extended from June to

September and North East monsoon spread over from October to November.

From December to February the place is endowed with colder, kinder climate

and a tropical climate from March to May. The Varkala Municipality is placed

I ,

in 08° 43 N latitude from the equator and 76 46 E longitude from the

Greenwich meridian. Spread over an area of 15.4 sq.km and divided into 24

wards, the total population of the municipality is 38987 (91 census). The

density ofpopulation is 2535. With an agrarian background, the society is

composed ofEzhava, Nair and Muslim communities living in harmony.

Mythological Evolution

Legends ascribe the origin ofVarkala to Narada, the musician sage

who is the son of B rah ma- the lord of creation. According to mythology,

6

Narada after paying homage to Lord Vishnu, the lord of the universe, at

Vaikundam was enroute to Brahma loka to meet his father, playing his beloved

veena and singing. Lord Vishnu was so enamoured ofhis divine music that he

followed Narada to Brahma Loka, without the Sage's knowledge. When Lord

Vishnu observed that Brahma had seen him, he disappeared.

The twelve prajapathis (The Gods like sun, moon, etc. created by

Brahma during the creation of the world) laughed at Brahma, observing his

obvious discomfiture at witnessing the respect shown by Vishnu for Narada.

The infuriated and insulted Brahma is believed to have cursed the prajapathis

to take birth as humans to atone for the sin ofridiculing the Lord ofcreation.

Characteristically the mischievous Narada stepped in at this stage to offer

advice to the prajapathis. He suggested them to do penance at the place where

his 'Valkalom', (garb made ofthe barkofa tree) which he threw down. Atthis

precise spot, a temple was consecrated to Lord Vishnu. The vicinity came

to be known as Varkala which later became popular as Varkala.

Historical Importance

History shows that Varkala, known as 'Dakshina Kasi', was a

spiritual destination to the Hindu pilgrims from time immemorial.

Inorder to link with the water ways of Kerala, the earstwhile rulers of

Travancoreconstructed two tunnels at Varkala. Sree Narayana Guru, one

of the foremost social reformers of Kerala had chosen Varkala as his

field of operation. The present Sivagiri hill at Varkala is the imaginative

7

creation of the Guru. Dr. Nataraja Guru, philosopher and one of the main

disciples ofSree Narayana Guru founded the East-west university at Varkala

in 1954 for spiritual study and research. Role of Varkala in the freedom

movement is also appreciable and admirable.

Resource Endowments

The total geographical area of Varkala is 1542 hectors. Out of

this only 890 hectares is utilised for agriculture and allied activities.

The rest is being used for railways, TS canal, public roads, hospitals,

educational institutions commercial and trading establishments, dwelling

centre of worship, and others. Cocount is the major crop cultivated

followed by paddy. No mineral deposit has been discovered so far.

Fishing is not commercialiscd. Scarcity of water both for drinking and

agriculture is acute. Farmers mainly depend on monsoon for cultivation.

The People

Majority of population hails from Ezhava community. The other

dominating groups are Nairs and Muslims. Though scheduled castes are not

rare the representation of scheduled tribe is practically nil, according to

the census report. Varkala is a paramount example of secularism and

religions harmony. Commercial riots have never been reported. The

demographic picture of the municipality is given in Table 2.1.

8

Table 2.1

General Information of Population (1991 census)

Item Nos

Population 38,987

Male 18,560

Female 20,427

Scheduled Caste 6156

Scheduled Tribes Nil

DensIty 2535

No. of families 8000

No.ofvoter 28800

Source: Varkala Municipality, Plan Report, 1998 -1999, P.7

Cultural Heritage

Varkala reflects the versatile cultural heritage of Keralam even

many decades before the place had entered the annals of history as the

paragon of religious harmony. The socio-cultural institutions of the 19th

century were responsible for bringing out, positive changes in the

society, consequently, the entire society, irrespective of creed or sex

got an opportunity to come to the main stream of the society. The

natives are soft spoken and a good number of them have conversant

communicative skill in English and Arabic and are accustomed to various

cultural patterns. The rule played by Sivagiri Mutt, East west university

9

and Mannania university in uplifting the cultural heritage of the region is

really praise worthy.

The Economy

The place has a remarkable and a little complicated economy. Based

on GDP, it is a backward region with no economic security. The main

occupation is agriculture and the meagre land holdings make the people small

and marginal farmers. Amidst the scattered traditional and cottage industries,

there is no hard core industry worth to mention. A good number ofpeople

are engaged in traditional industries like coir, coconut processing etc. Fishing

is seasonal and is practised only on small scale. Most of the industries,

numbering more than 250, are registered as small scale industrial units.

These units are engaged in the production ofdiversified products like ready

made garments, workshops, timber units, printing, oil mills, photostat,

engineering workshop, tire retreading, electronics, soap manufacturing,

poultry, handicrafts and the like.

The human resource is not properly utilised, as a good number of

educated, technically skilled and manually potential youths have sought solace

in the middle east due to the chronic unemployment in the country in

general and the area in particular. The entire economy, including the

unprecedented consumerism, is backed by foreign remittance. The network

of branches ofalmost all commercial banks, with foreign exchange facility

stand as a testimony to this. The NRI remittance, income generated through

10

petty trade and commerce together with negligible agricultural income,

pilgrims and tourist spending constitute the major sources ofincome to locals.

Tourisms in Varkala

From time immemorial Varkala was renounced as a pilgrim

centre. The annual gathering at JanaI'dana Swami temple and papanasan is

well acknowledged. The Sivagiri mutt and East West university gave a

philosophical outlook to Varkala and the spas and naturopathy centre

added symphony. Commercial tourism in Varkala is only of recent origin.

Though tourists were there at Varkala for 15 years or so it was not reckoned

as a commercial tourist centre. The establishment of Taj hotel and the

diminishing popularity of Kovalam beach resort are the main reasons for

the growth of Varkala as a commercial tourist centre. Gradually pushing

back the pilgrim importance to second place Varkala is marching towards

commercial! mass tourism.

The main attributes ofVarkala tourism is its seasonality. The season

begins at September, attains full bloom towards December and last long

upto May. Many ofthe natives at the vicinity of the cliff in Korakkanny

ward of Varkala municipality earn a means of living for a year by

indulging themselves in tourism business

Major Attractions

Varkala, from very old days is renouned as a pilgrim centre attracting

11

pilgrims to lanardana Swami temple, papanasam and Sree Narayana Mutt.

Apart from the sanctity ofthese, today both domestic and foreign travellers

are attracted to Varkala by its natural beauty of which the most prominent

one is the Varkala BEACH. The two cliffs leaning towards the sea is a rare

sight at any sea cost. The umbrella of privacy provided by the cliff

coupled with the Ayurveda and naturopathy in a salubrious climate, the

hospitality of the rural folk and the low cost ofliving are the major factors

:lttracting more tourist especially foreigners to Varkala. The destination in

general offers a thrill, an ecstasy, an extraterrestrial feeling, solace, a

spiritual bliss, an excitement; something which is special and memorable.

By and large tourist are drawn to Varkala by nature based attractions.

The Business

Private sector is the major player in tourism industry in Varkala.

Leaving the spiritual/philosophical centres to the original caters, at

present, the private sector is mainly concentrated to beach and health

tourism in the vicinity of cliff and papanasam beach. Emulating the

pattern of tourism development at Kovalam, Varkala is also growing

along the same line through private initiative. There are 12 permanent

hotels close to the cliff and papanasan beach of which 8 provide

boarding facility. The only one 4 star hotel at Varkala is owned by the Taj

group. During season atleast 40 hotels / restaurants were set up by the

natives and outsiders catering traditional, South Indian, Chines and

Continental dishes.

12

In the accommodation sector besides the professional groups,

there is a fast growing section - the locals providing paying quest facility

at their own style. A good number of tourist are leaning towards this type

ofaccommodation as it provides unique opportunity to get accustomed

to Kerala tradition and way oflife.

The health clubs, serving the traditional age old Ayurvedic system

and yoga are the real test] monials of tourists resorts in Kerala. The

foreigners are particularly enthusiastic to the Ayurveda massage. A

mushroom growth ofhealth clubs and yoga camps even gents special and

ladies special are common phenomenon during seasons. One may wonder

whether authentic service is provided by these centres and a good number

of them exhibit a shady character among the residents

The sales outlets are centered chiefly to handicrafts and paintings.

These emporias are mostly owned by people from Kashmir, Kamataka

and even from Bhutan. While a handful ofthem operate round the year a

good number of them vanishes as season ends. While some have

managed to possess their own land and buildings others manages to get

space on lease. Boys and girls between the age group of 8-15 are widely

employed as sales agents. Children selling curios during season at the beach

area is a common sight. It is alleged that children bought from neighbouring

state are used for prostitution also.

13

The tourists

Tourists both domestic and foreign from far and wide visit Varkala.

They include both casual and regular visitors. But most of them are short

haul visitors. Foreign tourist generally hails from all parts of Europe and

Middle East. However, Italy, Germany, England and Austria dominate the

list. Due to lack of proper accounting mechanism the accurate number of

visitors in Varkala is kept in dark. Though the practice of filing 'e'

from to the police station is a prerequisite, the locals opine that the

actual numbers to Varkala will normally be 3 times or even more than the

number of'C form' field. A profile of foreign tourist would reveal that it

including students, professionals and business people. By and large the

area is covered by middle and lower middle class tourists.

The Beneficiaries

Without dispute tourism has been acknowledged as an industry

bringing more and additional income and more employment especially

to the locals. To start with Beach tourism in Varkala heavily relied upon

the locals. In the stage of euphoria, locals at Korakkanny cordially invited

tourist and whatever they pay constitute additional source ofincome to them.

Gradually the locals began to provide food and accommodation at

nominal rates with in the available facility. In due course, attracted by

the potential profit in tourism business, people from Kovalam and other

parts joined the locals for supplying facilities. A hand full of locals

14

mainly the gulf returnees also joined the fray. During the last five years

there is markable increase in the number of foreigners coming to Varkala.

The search for calm and c1e~m beach, disgust towards mass tourism and re­

direction of tourists to Varkala from Kovalam by business people etc. seems

to be the main reasons. Gradually tourism in Varkala began to grow along

the path set by Goa and Kovalom. Today one can find all negative impacts

of mass tourism in its, infancy at Varkala. Notwithstanding the fact that

some locals are dead against the type of development taking place at

Varkala nothing concrete has been done to put it on a sustainable track.

There is a growing fear among the locals that the destination will loose

its original charm very soon and the industry will slip into the hands of

outsiders at any moment.

It is in this context, after sharing the Views of the locals we

thought of preparing an Action plan for Tourism Development at Varkala

with local participation. The enthusiastic and enterprising locals have a

bunch of ideas and resources at their disposal. But how to concretise it

is a major issue. The present study is an attempt to identity areas where

local participation can be ensured to cherish sustainable tourism.

15

CHAPTER II

APPROACH TO THE STUDY

Significance

Keralam, the southern most part ofIndian Peninsula, is enriched with

diverse natural attractions of which the 570 kms length coastline provide

inexplicable potential for the development of Beach Tourism. Once

Keralam was identified as a destination to be developed at international

level, the authorities might have overwhelmed by the advantage and

prosperity that it could bring to the state as well as to the country in the

tourism horizon. Keen in providing some infrastructure facility especially

accommodation and drinking water, everything else were left open to the

whims and fancies of the private resulting in the unplanned and hence

unregulated growth and development of tourism in Kovalam. It is quite

natural that for obvious reasons, Kovalam began to grow along the line set by

Goa. Of too late, the policy makers realised their folly and took fruit less

efforts to bring Kovalam back to the track. Notwithstanding the fact that

Kovalam stand a testimony to how a destination, particularly a beach resort

should not grow, little earnest efforts have been made to ensure the

sustainable development of beach tourism along the west coast of

Keral am. Varkala is not an exception.

There is great hue and cry from the administrators, policy makers and

people at large, to convert the entire state into a tourism village, whereby

16

more employment and income can be generated in the rural area with

relatively small capital investment. But one may doubt whether the steps

initiated to cherish this goal is well thought out or not. The doubt is mainly

due to the strong under currents that are in operation in the industry and

their complicated interrcbtionship. Just like the good old planning

practices where the planners prepare plans for the down troddens on the

presumption that they do not know what they want, quite often tourism

plans were thrust up on the rural people as a panacea for rural economic

ills. It is high time to take some pragmatic approach so that locals at the

destination automatically become the guide and guardian of the destination

where by sustainable development of the site can be ensured.

Tourism was given a low priority in the development paradigm of

Kerala till the eighth five year plan. Though tourism was assigned the

status of an industry in 1986, nothing concrete has been done to promote it

along sustainable path. The new planning process initiated in the state

provide ample opportunity to shift the focus of tourism from an elite

industrialist centered to people centered. While identifying priority

sectors for development in rural areas and preparing projects for productive

activities, tourism find a place of significance. At least for the first

time people in the panchayatsl villages felt that they can use their

natural resources for developing tourism to cherish their economic

objectives. Simultaneously the government explicitly stated its desire to

promote environment friendly tourism also. Though the background for

17

people's participation In tourism is set by the ninth plan and the

government tourism policy, conventional tourism programmes went

unabated. Varkala is a very good example where tourism is being

developed along the Kovalam line which in turn derived lessons from

Goa. Needless to say that the encroachment ofout siders as suppliers

of accommodation, food and beverages, handicrafts, curious health clubs

and traditional treatments will push the locals definitely behind the

certain. In the lure for making wind fall gains drug, prostitution and other

anti social activities are also promoted by a few who consider Varkala

as a transit destination in their business journey. Quite a good number of

locals now believe that tourism is Big peoples Business and they cannot

do anything in it. They fear that only by pumping more money they can

reap profit. The helpless poor are forced to rent out their land for tourism

which in due course may be appropriated by the business people. The

need of the houris to develop a plan of action where by the locals

should have a 'say' in tourism development. The present study is a modest

attempt to prepare an action plan for tourism development with peoples

participation in Varkala.

Objectives

The broad objectives of the study is to prepare an Action Plan for

the development ofBeach tourism in Varkala with peoples participation.

However in the backdrop of the ongoing peoples campaign for the Ninth

five year plan in the state we have made the following specific objectives.

18

I. To make an assessment of the resource endowments of the locality

2. To identify areas where maximum local participation can be ensured

for developing beach tourism

3. To formulate an Action Plan for tourism development in Varkala.

l\'lethodology

Secondary data, primarily from the development report of Varkala

municipality will be taken for assessing the resource endowments ofthe study

area. However, the study will mainly depend on the Participatory Rural

Appraisal Technique (PRA). PRA, propounded by Robert Chambers, is a

novel method for ascertaining community, group and individual problems of

a village, assessing the available natural and physical resources, identifYing

commonly acceptable solution and formulating time bound action plans

for possible implementation primarily with their own resources and

where ever feasible with those mobilised from outside the community.

Under this method, community commands top most priority and outsiders

are catalysts and facilitators. PRA differs in its perception, approach, content,

execution and application to field settings. People command prime ofplace,

their participation counts much, their suggestions! options are most respected

and their presence at every stage is attached great significance.

PRA describes a growmg family of approaches and methods to

enable local people to share enhance and analyse their knowledge of life

_l

19

and condition to plan and act. Its purpose is more to gam an understanding

of the complexities ofa topic rather than to gather highly accurate statistics

on a list ofvariables. It is applied more effectively in relatively homogeneous

rural communities which share common knowledge, values and beliefs,

although it has also been used in more complex urban environment

(Chambers '92). PRA approach and methods have been used for appraisal

analysis and many subject areas such as agro ecosystem, natural

resources, research on urban housing problems, social, cultural and

economic conditions etc.

A community approach can give greater and valuable contributions

encouraging wider participation in tourism. Many studies indicate the

importance of community participation in tourism planning so that the

local population and women in particular, are not excluded from the benefits

of tourism development. Murphy (1985) had given a refined version of

community approach to tourism development in his book "Tourism: A

Community Approach". He advocated the use ofan ecological approach to

tourism planning which emphasised the need for local control over the

development process. One of the key components of the approach is the

notion that in satisfying local needs it may also be possible to satisfy the

needs of the tourist.

Community oriented approach to tourism posit a 'pluralistic'

approach to tourism development. In the pluralistic view of power and

decision making, "Power is totally embodied and fully reflected in "Concrete

20

decisions" or in activity bearing directly upon their making (Bachrach and

Baratz 1970). Further, the pluralistic basis ofcommunity tourism planning

assumes that all parties have an equal opportunity to participate in the

political process. Under pluralistic approach power is relatively evenly

distributed with in the community and will shift according to issues and

the range of interests and values involved.

A community approach to tourism planning is a 'bottom up' form of

planning, which emphasises development in the community rather than

development of the community (Hall, C 1991) It implies a high degree of

public participation in the planning process and there will be a community

process. The local residents are regarded as the focal point of tourism

planning.

While preparing an Action plan for Beach Tourism Development

we heavily depend on PRA. The ongoing peoples campaign

programme has already generated an awareness among public about

the need for participation in developmental acti vities. The modes

operandi of PRA in Varkala include preparation of field work,

designing PRA tools, guide lines for action and guide lines for PRA

report. The preparation of field work in the study area include review

of secondary sources, preparation of check lists of questions and

topics for interview and direct observations, selection of key

informants and assigning of tasks to PRA team. With the information

gathered from the secondary source and informants, a semi-structured

21

questionnaire was prepared. This formed part ofthe agende of first meeting.

The first-meeting has succeeded in identifying major areas where locals

wish to participate. In the second phase detailed descussion were held on

these areas. The analysis of the PRA meeting fonTIs the report.

The PRA team

Besides the Principal Investigator the PRA team included Dr.PN

Sankaran, Reader,University College and formerly Chief Decentralised

Planning, State Planning Board, Govt. of Kerala, Sri. Rajasekharan and

Robin.C, , research scholars, University of Kerala, one post graduate

students in Tourism, University of Kerala and Mr. Sunil John, a

Sociologist.

The Study Area

Varkala Beach - The papanasam and cliff - is spread over Korakkanny ward

in Varkala municipality. The main focus of the PRA team is the suburbs of

beach area in Korakkany vvard. In addition we conducted interviews and

observations in and around Korakkany as some business people, social

workers and voluntary agencies are located in the neighbourhood area.

The field work

As already stated the work of the PRA team at Varkala started in

September 1999. Initially we made an attempt to bring together some key

informants in the locality. After identifying same key informants we

22

organised a meeting where informants are expected to give us more

insight about Varkala in general and Korakkanny in particular. The first

meeting was organised on Sept. 22nd. The informants include

representatives of local bodies, voluntary agencies, social workers and

retired personals. With the secondary data and the information provided

by key informants we have decided to convene a meeting of the local

people.

Twenty five locals participated in the first meeting. The locals

were given a free hand to discuss the issues, and possibilities of tourism in

Varkala. The PRA team has succeeded in identifying some broad area

which need further indepth enquiry. The meeting concluded with a

decision to convene a still larger forum incorporating females too.

After ten days another round was held where 39 people participated.

Emergence of more concrete and practical views were the result of the

final round. The group was unanimous in protecting the economic, social,

cultural and environmental interest of the locality. The next chapter

analysis in detail the observation, inferences and opinions ofparticipatory

approach. While doing so we accept that there are same who from the

very first round itself have shown their disinterest in this endeavour. In

their own words II we have no time to chat with these people. Instead of

indulging in fruitless discussion we can convert our precious time into dollars.

Because this is season".

23

However the expenence of the PRA team at Varkala reveals a

positive approach kept by the locals by and large and their keen interest to

protect their locality from cent per cent commercialisation and staged

authenticity .

24

CHAPTER - III

PEOPLES ACTION FOR TOURISM

Peoples participation as an instmment for implementing the Ninth

five year plan has gained wide spread acceptance in Kerala with in a short

span of time. Under this novel attempt all panchayats, municipalities and

municipal corporations in the state were given the mandate to prepare

their development reports, formulate and implement project for

development. In the backdrop of a brief sketch of the history of the

locality the development report provide detailed sketch of the resource

endowments and development potentials. By decentralising power and

money and ensuring peoples participation at various levels, projects were

prepared and implemented. A new era opened in the history ofplanning

in Kerala. For the first time in the history of planning, people have got an

opportunity to sit together and discuss their needs and requirements. The

gramasabha or ward committee provided the forum. It is expected that the

process will enable cost effective and time bound implementation of

schemes by mobilising local resources inc1uding knowledge and skill.

As the peoples plan programme provided an opportunity for every

body to participate in various socio-economic activities of their locality, it

has succeeded considerably in spreading the mission of participation in

every nook and comer ofthe state. It is in this background we have decided

to prepare a model for Peoples participation for Beach Tourism in Kerala.

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26

participation for material benefits are reckoned as participatory approaches,

the real form ofparticipation emenates from the chances given to the stake

holders to influence the out come of decision making. Here people believe

that participation is their right and they have complete control over the

project. Any society aspiring for sustainable development should inevitably

apply participatory approach which in tum will enable them to find out missing

links and suggest remedial measures with no loss of time.

The Dawn of Tourism

One cannot precisely say when and where tourism staI1ed in Varkala.

The land had close association with outsiders from time immemorial, thanks

to its religious and philosophical background. Probably it is in the latter half

of 1980's Ittourists" began to visit Varkala. Interestingly, it is noted that

'foreigners' visiting the bc'ach were considered as 'tourists' by the locals and

they were extended hospitality which in tum was highly appreciated. The

mineral spring and cliff are really exotic to the foreigners. The locals by

and large are ignorant about the medicinal value ofmineral water. The poor

farmers who do not own a well or a tap have luxurious bath in mineral

water and used it for drink ing purpose. The natural mineral water, salublious

climate, naturopathy, coupled with pollution free environment contributed

much positively to the health status of the people who engaged themselves

in petty trade farming fishing and other traditional activities. ,

27

Originally Varkala was visited by inquisitive foreigners who are in

search of serine natural beauty solitude and authenticity. As 'commercial

tourism' was not popular 10reigners were accomodated in the available local

facility and what ever they pay constitute a supplementary income to the

locals. The guest and host were happy where Doxey's euphoria operated.

Gradually NRIs of Varkala and other enterprising groups began to invest

in hotels, restaurant and health clubs and gave tourism a commercial face.

The four star hotel owned by Taj was a centre of attraction to the package

tourists. In due course, seasonal tourism began to flourish with all

accessories and associated evils. On observation, it is found that tourism in

Varkala is growing along the line set by Kovalam and with in no time the

destination will transform into another mass tourism centre with all

associated negative impacts. It is in this juncture, we have decided to

explore the possibilities of developing tourism in Varkala with peoples

participation so that sustainable development of beach tourism can be

ensured.

The PRA Study

Lack ofproper planning is the hall mark of the development oftourism

destinations in Kerala. The history oftourism development in the state shows

that government inititative has taken place only in selected few destinations.

Most ofthe tourism destination are identified, promoted and popularized by

private initiative, where proper planning seldom exist. The interference of

the Department is warranted only where the available infrastructure

28

facility is inadequate or when the locals start resisting the negative impacts

of mass tourism. It is quiet heart rending to note that in none of the

situation neither the opinion of the locals nor their involvement is taken

into account. Varkala, an emerging destination in Kerala is not an exception

to this. It is rightly obsef\ed that the continued existence of any destination

is ensured by its capacity to operate along ecofriendly socially, eulturally

and economically supportive line. In the beginning participatory techniques

were used in rural settings mainly in agriculture and allied activities. But

today it is increasingly used in all most all fields of activities Irrespective

offLlrai urban settings. The present study highly make use of PRA technique

to identify areas where locals can participate in tourism business.

The key informants

As a prelude to the study we have collected some secondary

information (chapter 2) about the munieipality in general. With the general

information already gathered we approached some key infonnants in Varkala

to probe more details and effect cross checking of what we have already

received. The key imformants include retired personnals, social workers and

a female ward member. The outcome ofthe interview held with the informants

provided the base for further indepth study.

Where do the locals stand ?

Commercial tourism has changed the attitude, approach and perception

of the locals considerably. The locality, once dominated by agricultural

29

labourers is now inhabited by different groups/class who are actively

involved in tourism business. Those who are fortunate enough to possess

land around the cliff and beach get wind fall gain during season by leasing

out land. Hotels and restaurants owners possessing sound infrastructure

facilities try to establish their suprimary and exercise control over tourism.

Enterprising youths in and around Varkala do seasonal business in makeshift

restaurents and remain idle until next reason starts. Households indulge

themselves in providing accomodation to tourist in "local specific paying

guest" facility is also common. Agricultural labourers turned themselves

into brokers, petty traders, hawkers etc. Outsiders concentrated more on

health clubs, massage parlour, ayurveda treatment, handicrafts, souvenirs

and money landing. Restaurents sponsored by foreigners and catering their /

dishes form another sub group in the business. Amidst a11 this, the other

locals live as passive spectators. While this is the visible picture of

present day tourism in V~lrkala, the invisible part ofit is formed by drug

trafficking, prostitution, child labour, illicit trade and what not.

The informants opine that there are two prominant schools ofthought

as far as tourism development in Varkala is concerned. Interestingly both

schools are dominated by locals. The first school is already set for

commercial tourism and is operating on the principle "make hey when sun

shines", This school is dominated by some NRI's and influenciallocals.

They feel that the available infrastructure facility is inadequate and there

is great potential to develop Varkala as an international beach resort. The

30

spas, cliff, cultural heritage and naturopathy are highlighted as comparitive

advantages. They demand more infrastructure faci Iities including star

hotels, swimming pool, water spots, development of helipad and a free

hand to the private sector to elevate Varkala to international level. They

are dead against the practice of providing paying guest facility by the

locals as it exist today.

The second school is more concerned about the posterity and

vehement critic of the type of tourism being developed at present. To

them, today, Varkala is experiencing a 'tourism culture' which is

completely new to the locality. Centering Papanasamc Beach there is a

free play ofdrug trafficki ng, sex racket, brokers, and money lenders. They

do a parallel business which will be highly detrimental to the continued

existence of Varkala as a cultural I philosophical centre. The growing

social and environmen1al menace will ultimately destroy the very

attractions of the destillation. The second school firmly believe that

the growing lethargy among the locals is mainly due to the tourism

business. The entire area will woke up only during season and will

remain idle till next season, spending the earning from tourism. To the

locals, today, tourism business is an opium rather than an engine of

growth. As the role of the locals in ordinary tourism business is

increasingly vanishing, it is feared that tourism in Varkala will be pocketed

by a handful of individuals or groups with vested interest. This school

want are-structuring oftourism activity to make it economically feasible

31

and socially responsible.

The PRA meetings

The PRA team converned a meeting at Varkala in September 1999

which was attended by 25 locals. Incidently most of the participants were

these who were associated with the formation of a co-operative society for

developing and marketing tourism in Varkala. But due to di fference ofopinion

and the control exercised by the so called "big business" in Varkala the

society exist only in paper. The participants were by and large aware of

the tourism potential of Varkala and the possible negative impacts. They

want to use tourism for the socio economic development of the locality.

The meeting that lasted for two hours discussed in detail all most all

aspects oftourism in Varkala. The major conclusions of the meeting are:

1. Locals were not able to get due place in tourism business.

2. There are several areas where locals can actively and effectively

participate.

3. A part of the profit emerging from tourism should be deployed for

the welfare of the society.

4. The present set up is purely profit oriented and give least significance

to socio-cultural and environmental aspects.

The major areas identified for local participation include

accomodation, restaurants, health care travel and tour operation, information

system, environmental is:;ues and prevention of antisocial activities. It is

32

felt that there is lack of co-ordination between the on going peoples plan

programme and the needs of the host community to facilitate tourism.

A judicious blending of the peoples plan programme and the tourism

sector can bring more and long lasting benefit to the locals. The meeting

concluded with a decision to convene a still larger forum of the locals by

incorporating more female members.

The second phase

After ten days we started the second phase ofthe inquiry which was

meant for detailed discussion on the broad area already identified. Thirty

nine members from different walks oflife participated in the meeting. They

include professionals, agriculturists, businessmen, social workers,

representatives of local bodies, youths, aged and housewives. Selected

participants were asked to note down the proceedings of the meeting which

were collected and analysed by the PRA team, later.

An evaluation of the discussions and suggestions on various issues

held in the meeting will throw more light into the need for An Action

Plan for Tourism Development in Varkala with peoples participation.

The broad areas identified for local participation in the first meeting

were placed in the second meeting which was discussed in detail. Let us analyse

each area separately.

33

Accommodation

Though Papanesam attracted pilgrims from time immemorial, there

were no formal arrangmcnts to accommodate visitors. The earlier foreign

visitors shared accommodation in the huts with the locals. Most of them

extended hospitality for no returns, while others accepted what is offered

by tourists. With an increase in the inflow of foreigners more locals came

forward to provide accollllllodation either by renting out a portion of their

house, extensions or out-houses. The area in general witnessed local

specific "paying guest facility". Gradually this trend began to spread to the

interior areas and thus supply of accommodation opened a new source of

income to the locals.

Today, the accommodation sector present a different but mixed

picture. Now rooms in hotels and houses solely eannarked for tourists

are being sold through brokers. In the absence of proper nonns controls

and regulations the sector is maintaining no standards. Complaints

regarding poor facility, high rent and cheating are common. Ordinary

locals who cannot 'catch' tourists are gradually driven out from the field.

The accommodation sector is concentrated to a handfull of people who

make fortune out of it.

The participants fdt that a network of accomodation facilities with

given standards can be provided by the house holds. All rules, regulations

and activities related to accommodation should be made transparent.

34

This in tum will avoid unhealthy competition, domination by big business

and ensure a fair trade in tourism. On the other side a fair dealing can be

ensured to the guest also. More over a self regulating mechanism for

waste disposal will automatically emerge as accommodation is provided

with in the premises of the household. Participants suggest the

implementation of suitable housing projects which can meet the housing

demand of the locals while providing facilities to the tourists. This intum

will improve the general housing standards of the locals and bring home

additional income also. The local interest, and value system will be

protected to a greater extent provided locals are given on upper hand in

the supply and managem~nt of accomodation facilities.

Food and Beverages

It is a common practice that enterprising men manages to get land on

lease and provide food an beverages in make shift restaurants. While

accommodation has a spread effect covering 2-3 sq.kms, restaurants are

concentrated along the c1iffand beach. Foreigners running restaurents and

transport service under binami is also reported. These restaurents cater the

needs and requirements of only foreigners from particular countries and

the locals are made to believe that these foreigners prefer to have their

own food prepared in their native style. As the locals have no objection to

this, 'foreign restaurents' too run simultaneously. There are 38 restaurants

along the cliff during this season, investing RS.2lakhs on an average. Thus

the total investment in Indian restaurants alone is worked out roughly as

35

Rs.76Iakhs. Barring a few, majority are functioning on leased land

where the rent varies from Rs.30000/- to Rs.2 lakhs for a season. The

average rent on land is calculated as Rs.75000/- The total rent collected from

restaurents alone in the cliff area will roughly be Rs.2850000/-. The

opportunity cost of the land is from agriculture which can not bring this

much of fortune to the land owners. Participants feel that this wind fall gain

to the land owners is primarily due to its situational importance and hence

measures have to be tkane to divert a portion of the rent proceeds to the

welfare of the community. As land value and rent have gone up several

times, ordinary locals are helpless either to buy a plot of land or hire

it for business purpose. It is also reported that provision, vegetables, fish,

meat, egs milk etc are mainly brought from outside resulting in the out

flow ofseverallakhs ofrupees. It is pointed out that by implementings suitable

projects through the peoples plan programme, the locals can supply a

sizeable portion of the input requirements of these restaurents. This will

enable the locals to participate indirectly in tourism business. They also

suggest that community restaurents may be started to serve ethnic food and

beverages. This is yet another area where locals can actively participate.

Seasonal restaurents is a fertile area for money landers. Most of the

restaurent owners borrow money either from natives or from foreigners.

Foreign money lenders are guaranteed a timely return of principal amount

with fixed interest once the season is over. Free food and accommodation

are an added advantage to them. Usually the money landers charge exorbitant

36

interest rates which is reHected in prices. Varkala is one ofthe gulfpockets

in Kerala where foreign remittance play a dominant role. The meeting

suggested a meaningful channalisation of foreign remittance to the tourism

sector. This will benefit both the NRIs and the locals.

Handicrafts

Handicrafts and souvenir shops run by nonkeralites are a major

concern for the locals. On enquiry the shop owners report a bad business

always; yet they thrive and come back during the next season too. Most of

them are hailing from Karnataka, Rajasthan, Kashmir and even from Bhutan.

It is alleged that some or the handicraft shops too indulge in antisocial

activities like prostitution, sale of drugs etc. Most of the shop owners are

seasonal business men moving from destination to destination all over the

country and they inject a "tourism culture" of their own in Varkala too.

The locals wonder why, not even a single project is implimented

through the peoples plan programme either for the production or for the

sale ofhandicrafts which are mostly demanded by tourists. A well thought

out project in this direction can create more employment to artisans and

weavers in production sidE' and others in the marketing side. Souvenirs,

curios and other handicrafts together can open potential area for self

employment to the locals. Further, local participation in this area can

contribute much in the direction of curbing antisocial activities.

37

Health and environment

Health and environment are attractive tourism products and at the

same time causalty oftourism development. Besides spas, and naturopathy

centre there is a mushroom growth of Ayurveda health club in Varkala.

Different types of rejuvenating treatments were practiced here. There are

health clubs purely earmarked for gents and ladies. The locals are totally

ignorant about the business in these centres. With out any dispute locals

unanimously agree that nature cure and Ayurveda treatment are acceptable

and beneficial. But they suggest the establishment of permanent health

club systematically run by qualified and trained personnals. Instead ofmaking

it seasonal the health care system should operate round the year where the

natives can also undergo treatment at concessional rates. For this they

suggest a discriminatory rate also. A high degree of transparency in the

working of the health clu bs will definitely increase its acceptance in the

society.

The uncompensated catastrophe that tourism create to environment

is universally acknolwedged today. It is the fate of all most all destination

that neither the tourists nor the tourism business have permanent interest

in the destination. Normally the environment will be neglected. Waste

generated and disposed both by the tourists and the business is a major

environmental issue. So far no systematic method for disposing waste­

both degradable and non degradabJe-is in the anvil. Once the season is over

the sea shore virtually become a dumping yard which will automatically

39

Public Relation and Tour Operation

Better public relations playa pivotal role in popularising a destination

among tourists. So far there is no scientific methods to collect tourist

statistics. It is obligatory that tourist should fill the IC' form and submit the

same with the police statlOn. Locals say that the actual member oftourist to

Varkala at any time will be at least three times higher than that of'C' forms

tield. The entire tourism business in Varkala can be linked through a

proper information bureaue where the locals think that they can contribute

much.

They suggest that all tourists to Varkala should be directed only

through the information c~ntre which in turn will issue an identity card. Under

the auspices of the information centre, facility for local conveyance,

arrangements oftravel f01mality, ofa good library etc can be provided. The

information centre can also work as a cultural centre too. The centre can

start short term courses an communication skills in foreign languages and

train youths as guides so that their services can be availed meaningfully

while they remain unemployed. The operation of the information cum

cultural centre may be done with the help ofthe locals. Voluntary service of

the local youth in this area will fetch more results.

Finally, the meeting suggested a re-structuring of the peoples plan

programme to incorporate more meaninful projects for sustainable tourism

development To them participation is seen more in theory than in practice

40

in the planning programme. A proper co-ordination of various tourism

business activity will ensure a continuous flow of income to the locality.

They demand a top prioriety for the locals in tourism business. I f only they

have a 'say' in tourism, responsible tourism can be promoted.

41

CHAPTER IV

CONCl,USION

The increasing awareness on the negative impacts of tourism has

fostered the search for alternatives all over the world. Today different types

oftourism are in the anvil preaching ethos ofsustainability. But experience

has shown that the industry is serving old vine in new bottle. Unless and until

the stake holders have some control in the operation ofthe industry the issue

of sustainability will remain only in paper. Participatory approach is

reckoned as one of the feasible solutions to promote sustainable

development. Since most of the tourism products are inseparable from the

destination, the locals should be given a due place and priority in tourism

development. Most of the natural and cultural attractions are highly fragile

that unregulated growth of tourism can bring more harm than good to the

society. Hence while framing policies for tourism development it is highly

imparative to identify potential areas and ensure the participation of the

locals so that they will operate as guide and guardian of future development

of the destination.

In the backdrop of the ongoing peoples plan programme, Kerala

provide a fertile ground for strengthening Peoples Action for Tourism

Development. The study conducted at Varkala, keeping this end in view,

revealed that the people by and large are for participatory action in the

tourism sector. They have identified accomodation, food and beverages,

42

health, travel tour operation, infonnation dissimination control ofantisocial

activities etc as broad areas where the locals can participate. A voluntary

agency committed to the socio-economic development of the destination

may be formed primarily with the help ofthe youth and the retired personals.

They strongly feel that such an agency must be free from politics and profit

orientation. Under the auspecies ofthe agency a net work oftourism business , '"

activities can be generated where quality, standards and fair tried will be

ensured. Unhealthy competition and illegal activities will be replaced by

'community rules' which is binding to all. All tourist to Varkala and the entire

tourism industry will be linked to the agency which in turn is answerable to

the guest as well as the host for any misdeeds. The meeting held with the

locals strongly advocate to plough back a portion of the profit from tourism

for the welfare of the community. By ensuring free or concessional health

care system, drinking water, electricity facility, kinder garden, good biliary,

machinary for waste management etc, it is felt that the welfare of the locals

can be improved. Besides a judicious blending oftourism needs with that of

the peoples plan programme can go a long way in creating employment and

income to rural people at the destination. Tourism should not be a main

activity, but a supplementary one. Varkala has physical and financial resources,

better quality human resource, enterprising, co-operative and dedicated

citizens who are willing to conserve the nat'\lre ,culture and promote the well ,,'/

being of the society. What they lack is a co-ordinated effort to cherish this

goal. People Action is the right alternative.

43

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44

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