P-51D Mustang Instructions NO. 590
Early m 1940 the British Purchasing Commission
approached North American Aviation about the
possibility of producing Curtiss P-40 aircraft for
the RAF. North American replied they could,
within a matter of months, deliver a new aircraft of
superior performance to the P-40. Although North
American had no previous experience at design-
ing fighter planes, the British accepted their pro-
posal, and thus was bom the P-51 Mustang.
Tne Mustang fully lived up to the claims made for
it. The Allison engine, also used on the P-40,
severely limited its altitude performance and, as a
consequence, its use as an interceptor. The
answer was to replace the Allison with the British
designed Merlin engine as used in the Spitfire.
The Merlin powered Mustang proved to be one of
the best fighters of the war. The long range of the
P-51 gave the 8th Air Force's Bomber Command
a fighter which could escort the "Heavies" all the
way to and from targets deep in the heart of
The P-51D was the major production model of the
Mustang, nearly 8,000 being built. It differed from
previous models in having 4 .50 caliber guns in
each wing and a bubble canopy. The P-51
Mustang was a thoroughbred, possessing fine
handling qualities, speed, and reliability. Its
exceptional range also meant that it could deliver
the goods where no other fighter could. Few
airplanes could claim all these attributes, and as
such, the P-51 Mustang remains one of the
greatest fighter planes of all times.
1 1,490 hp Packard Merlin
V-1650-7, water cooled
37ft 05/16 in
32 ft 3 1/4 in
13 ft 8 in
7,125 Ibs empty
11,600 Ibs max. loaded
437 mph @ 25,000 ft
6 .50 caliber Browning
P-51 Mustang in Action, Aircraft No. 45,
Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal)
Fighting Colors, P-51 Mustang in Color,
Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal)
P-51 Mustang, Robert Grinsell & Rikyu
Watanabe (Crown Publishers)
The North American Mustang, The Story of the
Perfect Pursuit Plane - P-51, M.J. Hardy
Aerodata International, Fighters of World War
II Vol. I, (Squadron/Signal)
1. Study the illustrations and sequence of as-
sembly before beginning.
2. Decide how much detail you wish to add to
your model and whether or not you intend to
modify or "convert" the basic model in any
way. Study carefully all available reference
material before beginning to ensure an au-
3. Due to the amount of parts in this kit, do not
detach the parts from the runner of the parts
tree until you need them. This helps avoid
confusion and lost parts.
4. When cementing the parts together, check the
way one part fits together with another. This
assures a neat job with no surprises.
5. Always remember when working with plastic
model cement and paint to keep your work
area well ventilated. The fumes from plastic
modeling products can be harmful if inhaled.
PREPARATION OF PARTS
1. Never tear parts off the runner (parts tree).
Use a Tester Hobby Knife, fingernail clippers,
or a small wire cutters to remove the parts
from the tree.
2. It is possible some parts may require a little
attention with a file or sandpaper to ensure a
proper fit and neat appearance. Hobby files
and Testor Hobby Sandpaper appropriate for
model building are available in most good
3. If you desire you may fill any seams (where
parts go together) or imperfections with Testor
Contour Putty for Plastic Models which is also
available at good hobby shops.
You can obtain an excellent finish on your model
using Testor finish preparation products and
paints. Detailed descriptions of paint types and
color are included on the pages that follow.
Good brushes are essential for proper detailing.
Testor Model Master brushes are recommended
and available at good hobby stores. Be sure you
have the entire selection for all your modeling
needs. Always dean them in Testor thinner, wash
in soap and water, and store with bristles upward
when not in use.
Wash plastic parts before detaching them from
the parts tree. Warm water and liquid dishwash-
ing detergent will remove the oils left from the
manufacturing process. Let the parts dry and
avoid excessive handling. Immediately before
painting, wipe the parts with a "tac rag" (available
at auto parts stores) to remove dust and lint.
Most small parts are best painted while still at-
tached to the parts tree. You can also detach
them and hold with tweezers or "magic" tape
while painting. Paint in one direction only. If your
paint is the correct thickness brush strokes will
disappear as the color dries. If the paint seems
too thick, thin with Testor Paint Thinner. Wheels
may be detached from the parts tree and fit onto
toothpicks or matchsticks for painting. Just hold
the paintbrush against the edge of the wheel and
rotate the stick and wheel to obtain a neat finish.
Let the paint dry completely before handling.
When the parts are dry, assemble the model,
following the directions closely. Remember
cement will not hold strongly to painted surfaces.
Use your Testor Hobby Knife to carefully remove
paint from all surfaces to be cemented. After you
have assembled the model you can touchup
areas where cement might have marred the finish.
The Tester Model Master paint system is
specially designed to be used on military
models. The Preliminary Painting instruc-
tions on this sheet indicate which Model
Master colors to use as indicated by name
and Federal Standard (FS) number. These
colors are called out by bold Italic type.
Wherever Model Master colors are not
applicable the required Testor color will be
called out by number and name in regular
No. 1708 Insignia Yellow FS 33538
with Red or Green bands (see drawings
on pgs. 6 & 7)
35, B45, B46, canopy frame:
No. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178
No. 1403 Aluminum Plate
No. 1749 Flat Black FS 37038
B42, B43, B44:
No. 1711 Olive Drab FS 34087
No. 7745 Flat Black with No. 1708
Insignia Yellow tips (see box photos)
1. Apply propeller blade decal markings to
propeller blades B11 using photos on
box as a guide for positioning (see
APPLYING DECALS on pg. 7) and set
aside to dry.
2. Cement tail wheel B24 to tail wheel strut
23. Place (do not cement) one main
wheel B26 onto axle of each main gear
strut 21 and 22 and fasten in place by
carefully cementing on wheel hub 25 to
the tip of each axle. Do not get cement
on wheel or wheel will not rotate.
3. Cement rocket launcher halves B42 and
B43 together making two rocket
launchers. Cement one end piece B44
to each launcher. Cement drop tank
halves B45 and B46 together making
two tanks. Glue canopy to canopy
4. Cement spinner halves 9 and 10
together making sure that the four holes
around the perimeter line up properly.
Place (do not cement) spinner into pitch
jig B14 with flange facing upward.
Cement one prop blade B11 into each
hole in spinner, rotating each in direction
shown by arrow until the trailing edge
touches the jig. Set aside to dry.
5. Remove prop from jig and place (do not
cement) the shaft into hole in bearing 12
as shown and fasten in place by
carefully cementing retainer hub B13 to
tip of shaft. Do not get cement on
bearing or prop will not spin.
Liquid cement, Testor #3502, is recom-
mended for construction since it can produce
the neatest, quickest, and strongest glue
joints. Apply small amounts of cement,
using the tip of a Testor Model Master No. 2
brush, to the surfaces to be joined while
holding the parts in place. Do not use large
amounts of cement.
Note: Clear parts are best glued in place
with white glue. White glue will not mar the
plastic and thus results in a better appear-
ance than conventional model cement.
Tweezers will be useful in assembling the
many small parts in this kit. The type used
by postage stamp collectors is recom-
B42 B45 B46
B3, B4, B5; 1, 2 interior of cockpit area:
No. 1713 Medium Green FS 34102
B33, B34 exhaust pipes only:
Wo. 1785 Rust
B4, B6, B7, B8; instrument panel fairing and
flat area under canopy:
Wo. 7749 Flat Black FS 37038
Frames on windscreen:
Wo. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178
1. Cement floor B3 onto large pins inside
left fuselage half 1. Cement armor plate
B4 to seat B5, then cement tab at
bottom of plate to slot in top of floor.
Carefullycut instrument panel decal
from decal sheet. Do not dip in water,
trim as close to the edges as you can
and then glue the decal to part B6.
Cement B6 to ridge inside instrument
panel fairing and knob on floor.
2. Cement tail wheel assembly into hole
indicated inside of left fuselage half 1,
then cement left and right fuselage
halves 1 and 2 together making sure
that tail wheel and instrument panel line
up properly inside fuselage halves.
3. Cement left exhaust stack B33 and right
exhaust stack B34 into slots on left and
right side of fuselage respectively.
Cement radio tops B7 and B8 to
positions indicated on top of fuselage.
Glue windscreen in place over instru-
ment panel fairing.
4. Cement left and right stabilizers 39 and
40 into slots on left and right side of
fuselage. Carefully cement bearing
portion of propeller assembly into front
of fuselage. Do not get cement on
spinner or p