P-51D Mustang Instructions NO. 590

HISTORYEarly m 1940 the British Purchasing Commissionapproached North American Aviation about thepossibility of producing Curtiss P-40 aircraft forthe RAF. North American replied they could,within a matter of months, deliver a new aircraft ofsuperior performance to the P-40. Although NorthAmerican had no previous experience at design-ing fighter planes, the British accepted their pro-posal, and thus was bom the P-51 Mustang.

Tne Mustang fully lived up to the claims made forit. The Allison engine, also used on the P-40,severely limited its altitude performance and, as aconsequence, its use as an interceptor. Theanswer was to replace the Allison with the Britishdesigned Merlin engine as used in the Spitfire.The Merlin powered Mustang proved to be one ofthe best fighters of the war. The long range of theP-51 gave the 8th Air Force's Bomber Commanda fighter which could escort the "Heavies" all theway to and from targets deep in the heart ofGermany.

The P-51D was the major production model of theMustang, nearly 8,000 being built. It differed fromprevious models in having 4 .50 caliber guns ineach wing and a bubble canopy. The P-51Mustang was a thoroughbred, possessing finehandling qualities, speed, and reliability. Itsexceptional range also meant that it could deliverthe goods where no other fighter could. Fewairplanes could claim all these attributes, and assuch, the P-51 Mustang remains one of thegreatest fighter planes of all times.

SPECIFICATIONSEngine

SpanLengthHeightWeights

Max. SpeedMax. RangeService CeilingArmament

1 1,490 hp Packard MerlinV-1650-7, water cooledV-1237ft 05/16 in32 ft 3 1/4 in13 ft 8 in7,125 Ibs empty11,600 Ibs max. loaded437 mph @ 25,000 ft2,258 miles41,900ft

6 .50 caliber Browningmachine guns

Reference SourcesP-51 Mustang in Action, Aircraft No. 45,

Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal)Fighting Colors, P-51 Mustang in Color,

Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal)P-51 Mustang, Robert Grinsell & Rikyu

Watanabe (Crown Publishers)The North American Mustang, The Story of the

Perfect Pursuit Plane - P-51, M.J. Hardy(Arco)

Aerodata International, Fighters of World WarII Vol. I, (Squadron/Signal)

BEFORE STARTING1. Study the illustrations and sequence of as-

sembly before beginning.2. Decide how much detail you wish to add to

your model and whether or not you intend tomodify or "convert" the basic model in anyway. Study carefully all available referencematerial before beginning to ensure an au-thentic model.

3. Due to the amount of parts in this kit, do notdetach the parts from the runner of the partstree until you need them. This helps avoidconfusion and lost parts.

4. When cementing the parts together, check theway one part fits together with another. Thisassures a neat job with no surprises.

5. Always remember when working with plasticmodel cement and paint to keep your workarea well ventilated. The fumes from plasticmodeling products can be harmful if inhaled.

PREPARATION OF PARTS1. Never tear parts off the runner (parts tree).

Use a Tester Hobby Knife, fingernail clippers,or a small wire cutters to remove the partsfrom the tree.

2. It is possible some parts may require a littleattention with a file or sandpaper to ensure aproper fit and neat appearance. Hobby filesand Testor Hobby Sandpaper appropriate formodel building are available in most goodhobby shops.

3. If you desire you may fill any seams (whereparts go together) or imperfections with TestorContour Putty for Plastic Models which is alsoavailable at good hobby shops.

PAINTINGYou can obtain an excellent finish on your modelusing Testor finish preparation products andpaints. Detailed descriptions of paint types andcolor are included on the pages that follow.

Good brushes are essential for proper detailing.Testor Model Master brushes are recommendedand available at good hobby stores. Be sure youhave the entire selection for all your modelingneeds. Always dean them in Testor thinner, washin soap and water, and store with bristles upwardwhen not in use.

Wash plastic parts before detaching them fromthe parts tree. Warm water and liquid dishwash-ing detergent will remove the oils left from themanufacturing process. Let the parts dry andavoid excessive handling. Immediately beforepainting, wipe the parts with a "tac rag" (availableat auto parts stores) to remove dust and lint.

Most small parts are best painted while still at-tached to the parts tree. You can also detachthem and hold with tweezers or "magic" tapewhile painting. Paint in one direction only. If yourpaint is the correct thickness brush strokes willdisappear as the color dries. If the paint seemstoo thick, thin with Testor Paint Thinner. Wheelsmay be detached from the parts tree and fit ontotoothpicks or matchsticks for painting. Just holdthe paintbrush against the edge of the wheel androtate the stick and wheel to obtain a neat finish.

Let the paint dry completely before handling.When the parts are dry, assemble the model,following the directions closely. Remembercement will not hold strongly to painted surfaces.Use your Testor Hobby Knife to carefully removepaint from all surfaces to be cemented. After youhave assembled the model you can touchupareas where cement might have marred the finish.

The Tester Model Master paint system isspecially designed to be used on militarymodels. The Preliminary Painting instruc-tions on this sheet indicate which ModelMaster colors to use as indicated by nameand Federal Standard (FS) number. Thesecolors are called out by bold Italic type.Wherever Model Master colors are notapplicable the required Testor color will becalled out by number and name in regularbold type.

1 SUB-ASSEMBLIESPreliminary Painting9,10:

No. 1708 Insignia Yellow FS 33538with Red or Green bands (see drawingson pgs. 6 & 7)

35, B45, B46, canopy frame:No. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178

21,22,23,25:No. 1403 Aluminum Plate

B24, B26:No. 1749 Flat Black FS 37038

B42, B43, B44:No. 1711 Olive Drab FS 34087

B11:No. 7745 Flat Black with No. 1708Insignia Yellow tips (see box photos)

Assemby1. Apply propeller blade decal markings to

propeller blades B11 using photos onbox as a guide for positioning (seeAPPLYING DECALS on pg. 7) and setaside to dry.

2. Cement tail wheel B24 to tail wheel strut23. Place (do not cement) one mainwheel B26 onto axle of each main gearstrut 21 and 22 and fasten in place bycarefully cementing on wheel hub 25 tothe tip of each axle. Do not get cementon wheel or wheel will not rotate.

3. Cement rocket launcher halves B42 andB43 together making two rocketlaunchers. Cement one end piece B44to each launcher. Cement drop tankhalves B45 and B46 together makingtwo tanks. Glue canopy to canopyframe 35.

4. Cement spinner halves 9 and 10together making sure that the four holesaround the perimeter line up properly.Place (do not cement) spinner into pitchjig B14 with flange facing upward.Cement one prop blade B11 into eachhole in spinner, rotating each in directionshown by arrow until the trailing edgetouches the jig. Set aside to dry.

5. Remove prop from jig and place (do notcement) the shaft into hole in bearing 12as shown and fasten in place bycarefully cementing retainer hub B13 totip of shaft. Do not get cement onbearing or prop will not spin.

Liquid cement, Testor #3502, is recom-mended for construction since it can producethe neatest, quickest, and strongest gluejoints. Apply small amounts of cement,using the tip of a Testor Model Master No. 2brush, to the surfaces to be joined whileholding the parts in place. Do not use largeamounts of cement.

Note: Clear parts are best glued in placewith white glue. White glue will not mar theplastic and thus results in a better appear-ance than conventional model cement.

Tweezers will be useful in assembling themany small parts in this kit. The type usedby postage stamp collectors is recom-mended.

22(21)

B24

B43 B44

B26

Canopy

B42 B45 B46

B11

No. 590

£. FUSELAGEPreliminary PaintingB3, B4, B5; 1, 2 interior of cockpit area:

No. 1713 Medium Green FS 34102B33, B34 exhaust pipes only:

Wo. 1785 RustB4, B6, B7, B8; instrument panel fairing andflat area under canopy:

Wo. 7749 Flat Black FS 37038Frames on windscreen:

Wo. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178Assemby1. Cement floor B3 onto large pins inside

left fuselage half 1. Cement armor plateB4 to seat B5, then cement tab atbottom of plate to slot in top of floor.Carefullycut instrument panel decalfrom decal sheet. Do not dip in water,trim as close to the edges as you canand then glue the decal to part B6.Cement B6 to ridge inside instrumentpanel fairing and knob on floor.

2. Cement tail wheel assembly into holeindicated inside of left fuselage half 1,then cement left and right fuselagehalves 1 and 2 together making surethat tail wheel and instrument panel lineup properly inside fuselage halves.

3. Cement left exhaust stack B33 and rightexhaust stack B34 into slots on left andright side of fuselage respectively.Cement radio tops B7 and B8 topositions indicated on top of fuselage.Glue windscreen in place over instru-ment panel fairing.

4. Cement left and right stabilizers 39 and40 into slots on left and right side offuselage. Carefully cement bearingportion of propeller assembly into frontof fuselage. Do not get cement onspinner or prop will not spin.

B5

Propeller Assembly

Windscreen B8 87 40

Seat detail omitted for clarity.

32 15 16 17

\ WINGS - FUSELAGEPreliminary Painting19, 20 interior of wheelwell:

Wo. 7407 Aluminum Plate31, 32 inner side of doors:

Wo. 1713 Medium Green FS 34102Assemby1. Cement cooling system doors 15,16

and 17 into locations shown on drawing.Cement tailwheel doors 31 and 32 toeither edge of wheelwell.

2. Cement left and right landing gearstruts (from Step 1) into "L" shapedlocating slots inside lower wing asshown. Cement left upper wing 19 andright upper wing 20 to lower wing.Cement wing assembly to fuselage.

22

No. 590 P-51 Mustang

1 SOUS ASSEMBLAGES

Peinture preliminaire9,10 No. 1708 Jaune insigne FS 33538 avec bandes rouges ou jaunes (voir dessins a la page 6 et7).35, B45, B46, Cadre de la verriere :

No. 1790 Chrome argent FS 1717821,22,23,25:

No. 1403 AluminiumB24, B26 :

No. 1749 NoirFS 37038B42, B43, B44 :

No. 1711 KakiFS 34087B11 : No. 1749 Noir avec No. 1708 Extremites en jaune insigne (voir photos situees sur la boTte)

Assemblage1. Appliquer les decalcomanies de I'helice sur les pales de I'helice B11 en vous appuyant sur les photos situees sur la boTte (voirAPPLICATION DES DECALCOMANIES a la page 7) puis laisser secher.2. Coller la roue arriere B24 a la jambe 23 prevue a cet effet. Placer (ne pas coller) une des roues principales B26 sur I'essieude chaque jambe destined au train d'atterrissage 21 et 22 et delicatement coller I'ensemble sur le moyeu de la roue 25 a I'ex-remit6 de chaque essieu. Ne pas mettre de colle sur la roue, car celle-ci ne pourrait plus tourner

3. Coller les moities du lance-roquettes B42 et B43 pour obtenir deux lance-roquettes. Coller une piece du bout B44 sur chacundes lance-roquettes. Coller les moities de reservoir largable B45 et B46 ensemble pour obtenir deux reservoirs. Coller la verriereur le cadre 35 prevu a cet effet.

4. Coller les moities 9 et 10 du cone d'helice en vous assurant que les quatre trous situes tout autour soient correctementalignes. Placer (ne pas coller) le cone d'helice dans le pitch jig B14 avec la semelle orientee vers le haut. Coller une pale B11dans chaque trou prevu dans I'helice, en faisant effectuer une rotation a chacune d'entre elles comme indiqu6 sur ('illustrationpar une fleche. Tourner jusqu'a ce que le bord de fuite entre en contact avec le jig. Laisser secher.5. Retirer I'helice du jig et placer (ne pas coller) I'arbre dans ('orifice situ6 dans le roulement 12 comme indique et coller delicate-ment le moyeu de retenue B13 sur I'extremite de I'arbre. Ne pas mettre de colle sur le roulement sinon I'h6lice ne tournera pas.

Remarque : Les pieces en plastique transparent collent mieux avec la colle blanche. Celle-ci ne ter-nit pas le plastique et le resultat obtenu est plus joli qu'avec une colle ordinaire pour modelesreduits.

Canopy = VerriereFlange = Semelle

2 FUSELAGE

B3, B4, B5 ; 1, 2 Interieur du cockpit:No. 1713 Gris intermediate FS 34102

B33, B34 Tuyaux d'echappement seulement:No. 1785 Rouille

B4, B6, B7, B8 ; Carenage du tableau de bord etzone plate sous la verriere :

No. 1749 NoirFS 37038Cadres sur le pare-brise : No. 1790 Chrome argent FS 17178

Assemblage1. Coller le sol B3 sur les grandes tiges situees dans la moitie gauche du fuselage 1. Coller la plaque armee B4 au siege B5,puis coller la languette situee au bas de la plaque armee du pilote dans la fente situee dans le sol. Decouper delicatement ladecalcomanie du tableau de bord. Ne pas tremper dans I'eau. Decouper aussi pres que possible des bords puis coller la decal-omanie sur la piece B6. Coller la piece B5 sur le bord du carenage du tableau de bord et au bouton situe sur le sol.

2. Coller la roue arriere dans le trou indique a I'interteur de la moitie gauche du fuselage 1, puis coller le deux moities du fuse-age 1 et 2 ensemble. S'assurer que la roue arriere et le tableau de bord sont correctement installes dans les moities du fuse-age.

3. Coller le systeme d'echappement gauche B33 et le systeme d'echappement droit B34 dans les fentes prevues a cet effet des ideux cotes du fuselage. Coller les parties superieures de la radio B7 et B8 aux emplacement indiques sur la partie superieure 'du fuselage. Coller le pare-brise par-dessus le carenage du tableau de bord.

4. Coller les stabilisateurs gauche et droit 39 et 40 dans les fentes prevues a cet effet de part et d'autre du fuselage. Coller deli-atement le roulement de I'helice dans la partie avant du fuselage. Ne pas coller le cone de I'helice, celle-ci ne pourrait plusourner.

Decal = DecalcomanieTaUwheel assembly = Assemblage de la roue arrierePropeller assembly = Assemblage de I'heliceWindscreen = Pare-briseSeat details omitted for clarity = Pour plus de clarte, le siege n'est pas detaille.

3 AILES - FUSELAGE

Peinture preliminaire

19, 20 Interieur du puits a roues :No. 1401 Aluminium

31, 32 Interieur des trappes :No. 1713 Vert intermediate FS 34102

Assemblage1. Coller les trappes des systemes de refroidissement 15, 16 et 17 en place comme illustre. Coller les trappes de la roue arriere31 et 32 de chaque cote du puits a roues.

2. Coller les jambes gauche et droite du train d'atterrissage (a partir de I'etape 1) dans les fentes en L prevues a cet effet situeesur les parties inferieures des ailes comme illustre. Coller la partie superieure de I'aile gauche 19 et la partie superieur de I'aile

droite 20 aux parties inferieures de I'aile. Coller les ailes au fuselage.

4 ASSEMBLAGE FINAL .

Peinture preliminaire IPhare d'atterrissage - tout sauf la lentille meme ; 27, 28, 29, 30, 48 :

No. 1790 Chrome argentFS 17178

Assemblage ,1. Coller le phare d'atterrissage (transparent) dans I'emboTture situee dans le puits de roues. Coller les trappes du train d'atterris-;age 29 et 30 sur les bords des puits des roues internes comme indique. Noter que ces trappes se refermaient une fois que lerain d 'atterrissage etait completement etendu meme si elles restaient parfois partiellement ou completement ouvertes. Coller !es trappes du train d'atterrissage droite et gauche 27 et 28 respectivement sur les jambes des trains d'atterrissage droite et ,gauche. ]

I

2. Coller les reservoirs largables (a partir de I'etape 1) dans les fentes situees sous les ailes. Coller les lance-roquettes (a partir |de I'etape 1) dans les ouvertures situees sous les ailes (optionnel). Coller le tube pilote 48 dans I'orifice situ6 sous I'aile droite. j3. Si vous desirez obtenir un modele avec pilote, peindre le pilote comme indique dans le tableau ci-dessous et le coller sur le

iege pilote. Coller I'antenne radio dans le trou situe sur le haut du fuselage. Le dessins indiquent les points d'attache pour leseventuels cables d'antenne. Ce cable n'existait pas sur la plunart des Mustang y compris pour les deux P-51s presentes dans ceit. Cependant, si vous desirez rajouter ce cable sur votre modele, du fil de fer ou un fil monofilament ou stretch peut etre utilise.

D'abord fixer le fil a la partie haute du repose-tete, puis le faire passer par la fente situ6e dans la verriere , puis coller la verrierea sa place. Pour terminer, fixer le fil a la derive a I'endroit indique. Si vous decidez de ne pas utiliser I'antenne, coller la verriereau fuselage en position ouverte ou ferme au choix.

LE PILOTELe casque, la veste :

"Cuir fonce" (Melange de trois mesures No. 1705, Rouge insigne FS 31196 et 1 mesure No. 1749 Noir FS 37038)ou utiliser No. 1183 Caoutchouc.

Visage:"Couleur peau" (Melange leger de No. 1785 Rouille avec quelques gouttes de No. 1768 Blanc FS 37875) ou

utiliser No. 1170 Blanc casse.Le pantalon et le parachute:

No. 1711 KakiFS 34087Les bottes et les gants :

"Cuir" (Melange de 8 mesures No. 1785 Rouille et 1 mesure No. 1749 Noir FS 37038) ou utiliser No. 1136 CuirLes sangles du parachute :'Blanc casse"(Melange de 10 mesures No. 1768 Blanc FS 37875 en soit une mesure No. 1708 Jaune insigne FS 33538

ou une mesure No. 1170 Blanc casse.

Remarque : II est plus facile de peindre et d'apposer les decalcomanies si les equipements destinesaux ailes et/ou les armes ne sont pas encore colles.

Optional = OptionnelLanding light = Phare d'atterrissageRocket launcher optionnel = Lance-roquettes optionnelFuel tank - Reservoir de carburantAntenna = AntenneOpen canopy = Verriere ouverteWire to pin = Point d'attache du filCanopy = Verriere

LISTE DES COULEURSNo. 1401 AluminiumNo. 1402 MagnesiumFS 34087 KakiFS 33538 Jaune insigneFS 31136 Rouge insigneFS 34102 Vert intermediateFS 37038 NoirFS 37875 BlancNo. 1171 Vert beret

"Old Crow" 357eme Groupe de Combat, 363eme Escadron de Combat, pilote par le Major ClarenceAnderson, hiver 1944-45.Decal = Decalcomanie

No. 590

•f FINAL ASSEMBLYPreliminary PaintingLanding Light - all except lens; 27, 28, 29,30,48:

Wo. 7790 Chrome SilverFS 17178

Assemby1. Cement landing light (clear) Into socket

inside left wheelwell. Cement innerlanding gear doors 29 and 30 to edgesof inner wheelwells as shown. Note thatthese doors were supposed to closeonce the landing gear was fully ex-tended, although they often remainedpartially or completely open. Cementright and left main gear doors 27 and 28to right and left landing gear strutsrespectively.

2. Cement drop tanks (from Step 1) intoslots on underside of wings. Cementrocket launchers (from Step 1) intoholes on bottom of each wing (optional).Cement pilot tube 48 into hole on

- underside of right wing.3. If you wish to display your model with

the pilot figure, paint him as indicatedby table below and cement him into pilotseat. Cement antenna mast into holeon top of fuselage spine. The drawingsshow the attachment points for anantenna wire. This wire was not carriedby most Mustangs, the two P-51sfeatured in this kit included. However, ifyou would like to add it on your model -wire, monofilament or stretched spruemay be used. First attach it to the top ofheadrest, thread wire through slot incanopy, then glue canopy in place.Finally attach it to fin at position shown.If you choose not to use antenna, gluecanopy to fuselage in either open orclosed position.

PILOTHelmet, jacket:

"Dark Leather" (mix 3 parts Wo. 7705Insignia Red FS 31136 and 1 part Wo.7749 Flat Black FS 37038) or use No.1183 Rubber

Face:"Flesh" (mix just a "touch" of Wo. 1785Rust into a few drops of Wo. 1768 FlatWhite FS 37875) or use No. 1170 FlatLight Tan

Pants, parachute:Wo. 7777 Olive Drab FS 34087

Boots, gloves:"Leather" (mix 8 parts Wo. 1785 Rustand 1 part Wo. 7749 Flat Black FS37038) or use Wo. 7736 Leather

Parachute straps:"Off White" (mix 10 parts Wo. 7768 FlatWhite FS 37875 and either 1 part Wo.1708 Insignia Yellow FS 33538 or 1part No. 1170 Flat Light Tan)

30 29

OptionalNote: It may be easier to paint and decalyour model if underwing stores and/orarmament are left off until model is com-pletely finished.

Rocket LauncherOptional

Antenna Open Canopy Wire to Pin

"Old Crow" 357th Fighter Group, 363rd Fighter Squadron, flownby Maj. Clarence Anderson, winter 1944-45

decal

COLOR KEY

Iil0;:|| Wo. 1401 Aluminum Plate

No. 1402 Magnesium

Jill FS 34087 Olive Drab

$$f£\ 33538 Insignia Yellow

FS 31136 Insignia Red

FS 34102 Medium Green

FS 37038 Flat Black

FS 37875 Flat White

No. 1171 Flat Beret Green

NO. 590

APPLYING DECALS1. After carefully masking clear areas, spray

entire model with Tester Glosscote #1261.Decals adhere best to a smooth surface andthe shinier the finish the smoother it is. Allowthe Glosscote to dry before going further.

2. Select the decals you plan to use and cut themfrom the decal sheet with scissors or a TesterHobby Knife.

3. Working with only one decal at a time, dip thedecal in clear water for no more than fiveseconds. Remove it from the water and placeon a dry paper towel for about one minute.

4. When the decal slides easily on the backingpaper, slide it to the edge of, and onto, thesurface of the model with a soft Tester ModelMaster paint brush or tweezers. Rememberthe decals are very thin and can be easilyripped. Work slowly and carefully.

"The Mille G", 55th Fighter Group, 343rd Fighter Squadron, flownby Maj. Gillier, 1944

5. Once the decal is in the desired position applya small amount of Tester Decal Set #8804.This will help the decal conform to any irreg-ularities in the surface of the model. Allow thedecal to dry undisturbed. Should you desire topurposely move it before it has dried, apply alittle Decal Set to a soft brush and push thedecal slowly into the desired position.

6. When the decals are completely dry(usually overnight), apply a coat of TesterDullcote, #1260, to the entire model. Thiswill give it an authentic, dull finish andprotect the surface of the model. Nowyou can carefully remove the maskingfrom the clear parts.

WEATHERING HINTSNearly all military aircraft show some signs ofwear. The process by which the modeler impartsthis took to the model is referred to as weather-ing. Many times the weathering, that is, the rep-resenting on the model of soot, oil stains, orchipped paint, etc., can really make a model standout and give it amazing authenticity.

After you have painted your model the propercolors, you can add the decals. If you first paintyour model with Tester Glosscote, the decalcarrier film will seem to disappear. Apply one ortwo coats of Glosscote for a smooth, glossy finish.Then, after this dries, apply the decals. This givesthem a "painted on" look. If you want your modelto have a matte finish, wait 24 hours for the decalsto dry. Then spray on one or two coats of TestorOullcote. When dry, you can begin weathering.

Always try to be logical in applying weatheringtechniques. For instance, you wouldn't want toput exhaust stains on a model and then apply abright clean decal to the sooty area. Airplanes arenormally well cared for, so they don't usuallyappear very battered. However, soot stains dotend to collect behind exhaust stacks andsometimes oil leaks onto the outside of the plane.

There are two methods of showing exhaust stains.The first is with an airbrush. This is a ratherexpensive item and requires practice to get theright effect. The second method is by using softartist pastels or charcoal in shades of gray orblack. Begin by grinding this material into a finepowder. Apply the powder to the model byrubbing it on with an old paint brush. Apply thecolor thicker and blacker near the exhaust outlet,and feather it out as it gets further away from theoutlet. You should practice this on an old modelor on a scrap of paper before trying it on yourmodel. This technique is not very permanent, soit is a good idea to give your model a coat or twoof Testor Dullcote to avoid rubbing off the stains.

Oil stains should be done very subtly. Oil reallyhas very little color, so it only leaves light stains.Tint a small amount of thinner lightly with blackpaint. Add a small drop to the area you want toappear oily. Now with a strong breath, blow the"oil" back along the plane. Keep in mind thedirection in which the planes flies, making sureyou are blowing the "oil" from front to back. It isvery easy to overdo this - one or two places areenough.

Paint chips are the simplest technique, but likethe others, are easily overdone. An averagemilitary plane wouldn't have very many chips.They usually appear on the cutting edges of thepropeller blades, the leading edges of wings andflying surfaces, and any areas where crewmembers or mechanics walk across the plane (i.e,wing roots). Use No. 17S1 Aluminum for paintchips, applying with a fine pointed brush. With avery small amount of paint on the brush, apply thechips in small dots, the smaller the better. Largechips will look too obtrusive. Be wary of fabriccovered control surfaces though; they don't chip.

Serious modelers collect books and photographsto use as reference when they finish their models.Your local hobby shop can help. Last, butcertainly not least, your own observation willprove helpful. Visit museums and local airports,look at buildings and vehicles around you. Noticehow rust streaks a metal roof. See the oil and dirton a piece of road grading equipment. Studyrailroad boxcars and locomotives to see what theweather has done to them. Your own observationcan be the best aid of all.

Remember: try not to overdo weathering - andkeep practicing. Be patient, it takes time todiscover and master all the tricks of this fascinat-ing hobby.