Click here to load reader

P-51D Mustang Instructions NO. · PDF file Larry Davi s (Squadron/Signal) Fighting Colors, P-51 Mustang in Color, Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal) P-51 Mustang, Robert Grinsell & Rikyu

  • View
    12

  • Download
    0

Embed Size (px)

Text of P-51D Mustang Instructions NO. · PDF file Larry Davi s (Squadron/Signal) Fighting Colors,...

  • P-51D Mustang Instructions NO. 590

    HISTORY Early m 1940 the British Purchasing Commission approached North American Aviation about the possibility of producing Curtiss P-40 aircraft for the RAF. North American replied they could, within a matter of months, deliver a new aircraft of superior performance to the P-40. Although North American had no previous experience at design- ing fighter planes, the British accepted their pro- posal, and thus was bom the P-51 Mustang.

    Tne Mustang fully lived up to the claims made for it. The Allison engine, also used on the P-40, severely limited its altitude performance and, as a consequence, its use as an interceptor. The answer was to replace the Allison with the British designed Merlin engine as used in the Spitfire. The Merlin powered Mustang proved to be one of the best fighters of the war. The long range of the P-51 gave the 8th Air Force's Bomber Command a fighter which could escort the "Heavies" all the way to and from targets deep in the heart of Germany.

    The P-51D was the major production model of the Mustang, nearly 8,000 being built. It differed from previous models in having 4 .50 caliber guns in each wing and a bubble canopy. The P-51 Mustang was a thoroughbred, possessing fine handling qualities, speed, and reliability. Its exceptional range also meant that it could deliver the goods where no other fighter could. Few airplanes could claim all these attributes, and as such, the P-51 Mustang remains one of the greatest fighter planes of all times.

    SPECIFICATIONS Engine

    Span Length Height Weights

    Max. Speed Max. Range Service Ceiling Armament

    1 1,490 hp Packard Merlin V-1650-7, water cooled V-12 37ft 05/16 in 32 ft 3 1/4 in 13 ft 8 in 7,125 Ibs empty 11,600 Ibs max. loaded 437 mph @ 25,000 ft 2,258 miles 41,900ft

    6 .50 caliber Browning machine guns

    Reference Sources P-51 Mustang in Action, Aircraft No. 45,

    Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal) Fighting Colors, P-51 Mustang in Color,

    Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal) P-51 Mustang, Robert Grinsell & Rikyu

    Watanabe (Crown Publishers) The North American Mustang, The Story of the

    Perfect Pursuit Plane - P-51, M.J. Hardy (Arco)

    Aerodata International, Fighters of World War II Vol. I, (Squadron/Signal)

    BEFORE STARTING 1. Study the illustrations and sequence of as-

    sembly before beginning. 2. Decide how much detail you wish to add to

    your model and whether or not you intend to modify or "convert" the basic model in any way. Study carefully all available reference material before beginning to ensure an au- thentic model.

    3. Due to the amount of parts in this kit, do not detach the parts from the runner of the parts tree until you need them. This helps avoid confusion and lost parts.

    4. When cementing the parts together, check the way one part fits together with another. This assures a neat job with no surprises.

    5. Always remember when working with plastic model cement and paint to keep your work area well ventilated. The fumes from plastic modeling products can be harmful if inhaled.

    PREPARATION OF PARTS 1. Never tear parts off the runner (parts tree).

    Use a Tester Hobby Knife, fingernail clippers, or a small wire cutters to remove the parts from the tree.

    2. It is possible some parts may require a little attention with a file or sandpaper to ensure a proper fit and neat appearance. Hobby files and Testor Hobby Sandpaper appropriate for model building are available in most good hobby shops.

    3. If you desire you may fill any seams (where parts go together) or imperfections with Testor Contour Putty for Plastic Models which is also available at good hobby shops.

    PAINTING You can obtain an excellent finish on your model using Testor finish preparation products and paints. Detailed descriptions of paint types and color are included on the pages that follow.

    Good brushes are essential for proper detailing. Testor Model Master brushes are recommended and available at good hobby stores. Be sure you have the entire selection for all your modeling needs. Always dean them in Testor thinner, wash in soap and water, and store with bristles upward when not in use.

    Wash plastic parts before detaching them from the parts tree. Warm water and liquid dishwash- ing detergent will remove the oils left from the manufacturing process. Let the parts dry and avoid excessive handling. Immediately before painting, wipe the parts with a "tac rag" (available at auto parts stores) to remove dust and lint.

    Most small parts are best painted while still at- tached to the parts tree. You can also detach them and hold with tweezers or "magic" tape while painting. Paint in one direction only. If your paint is the correct thickness brush strokes will disappear as the color dries. If the paint seems too thick, thin with Testor Paint Thinner. Wheels may be detached from the parts tree and fit onto toothpicks or matchsticks for painting. Just hold the paintbrush against the edge of the wheel and rotate the stick and wheel to obtain a neat finish.

    Let the paint dry completely before handling. When the parts are dry, assemble the model, following the directions closely. Remember cement will not hold strongly to painted surfaces. Use your Testor Hobby Knife to carefully remove paint from all surfaces to be cemented. After you have assembled the model you can touchup areas where cement might have marred the finish.

  • The Tester Model Master paint system is specially designed to be used on military models. The Preliminary Painting instruc- tions on this sheet indicate which Model Master colors to use as indicated by name and Federal Standard (FS) number. These colors are called out by bold Italic type. Wherever Model Master colors are not applicable the required Testor color will be called out by number and name in regular bold type.

    1 SUB-ASSEMBLIES Preliminary Painting 9,10:

    No. 1708 Insignia Yellow FS 33538 with Red or Green bands (see drawings on pgs. 6 & 7)

    35, B45, B46, canopy frame: No. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178

    21,22,23,25: No. 1403 Aluminum Plate

    B24, B26: No. 1749 Flat Black FS 37038

    B42, B43, B44: No. 1711 Olive Drab FS 34087

    B11: No. 7745 Flat Black with No. 1708 Insignia Yellow tips (see box photos)

    Assemby 1. Apply propeller blade decal markings to

    propeller blades B11 using photos on box as a guide for positioning (see APPLYING DECALS on pg. 7) and set aside to dry.

    2. Cement tail wheel B24 to tail wheel strut 23. Place (do not cement) one main wheel B26 onto axle of each main gear strut 21 and 22 and fasten in place by carefully cementing on wheel hub 25 to the tip of each axle. Do not get cement on wheel or wheel will not rotate.

    3. Cement rocket launcher halves B42 and B43 together making two rocket launchers. Cement one end piece B44 to each launcher. Cement drop tank halves B45 and B46 together making two tanks. Glue canopy to canopy frame 35.

    4. Cement spinner halves 9 and 10 together making sure that the four holes around the perimeter line up properly. Place (do not cement) spinner into pitch jig B14 with flange facing upward. Cement one prop blade B11 into each hole in spinner, rotating each in direction shown by arrow until the trailing edge touches the jig. Set aside to dry.

    5. Remove prop from jig and place (do not cement) the shaft into hole in bearing 12 as shown and fasten in place by carefully cementing retainer hub B13 to tip of shaft. Do not get cement on bearing or prop will not spin.

    Liquid cement, Testor #3502, is recom- mended for construction since it can produce the neatest, quickest, and strongest glue joints. Apply small amounts of cement, using the tip of a Testor Model Master No. 2 brush, to the surfaces to be joined while holding the parts in place. Do not use large amounts of cement.

    Note: Clear parts are best glued in place with white glue. White glue will not mar the plastic and thus results in a better appear- ance than conventional model cement.

    Tweezers will be useful in assembling the many small parts in this kit. The type used by postage stamp collectors is recom- mended.

    22(21)

    B24

    B43 B44

    B26

    Canopy

    B42 B45 B46

    B11

  • No. 590

    £. FUSELAGE Preliminary Painting B3, B4, B5; 1, 2 interior of cockpit area:

    No. 1713 Medium Green FS 34102 B33, B34 exhaust pipes only:

    Wo. 1785 Rust B4, B6, B7, B8; instrument panel fairing and flat area under canopy:

    Wo. 7749 Flat Black FS 37038 Frames on windscreen:

    Wo. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178 Assemby 1. Cement floor B3 onto large pins inside

    left fuselage half 1. Cement armor plate B4 to seat B5, then cement tab at bottom of plate to slot in top of floor. Carefullycut instrument panel decal from decal sheet. Do not dip in water, trim as close to the edges as you can and then glue the decal to part B6. Cement B6 to ridge inside instrument panel fairing and knob on floor.

    2. Cement tail wheel assembly into hole indicated inside of left fuselage half 1, then cement left and right fuselage halves 1 and 2 together making sure that tail wheel and instrument panel line up properly inside fuselage halves.

    3. Cement left exhaust stack B33 and right exhaust stack B34 into slots on left and right side of fuselage respectively. Cement radio tops B7 and B8 to positions indicated on top of fuselage. Glue windscreen in place over instru- ment panel fairing.

    4. Cement left and right stabilizers 39 and 40 into slots on left and right side of fuselage. Carefully cement bearing portion of propeller assembly into front of fuselage. Do not get cement on spinner or p

Search related