04 ÏéíéêÜ ÁíÜëåêôáÄçìÞôñçò ÐïôáìéÜíïò

06 Åíôüò & Åêôüò

08 ¢íèñùðïé êáé ìç÷áíÝò ôïõ êñáóéïýÄñ. Ìáñïýóá Ôóá÷Üêç

12 ¢äåéåò öéÜëåò êñáóéïý. Êáé ôþñá ôß;Ôßíá Ðáðáóßíïõ

14 Éóôïñßåò ôñýãïõÁããåëéêÞ Ðáíáãïðïýëïõ

17 Bella Toscana!¸ëëç ÊïññÝ

24 Michael BroadbentÃéþñãïò Öëïýäáò

27 Ç éóôïñßá ôùí ãëõêþí ôçò ÅõñþðçòÓôÝëéïò ÐáñëéÜñïò

32 Ôï óýíäñïìï [Lafite] ôçò ÊßíáòAndy Xie (www.caing.com)ÌåôÜöñáóç: ¸ëëç ÊïññÝ

40 Ç ãåýóç ôçò ÌåóóçíßáòÅëÝíç Øõ÷ïýëç

46 Ôñþãïíôáò ÝîùÄçìÞôñçò ÐïôáìéÜíïò

47 Ïéí… ternet!Äñ. Ìáñïýóá Ôóá÷Üêç

Ï Êýêëïò ôùí Ïéíïößëùí åßíáé ç ËÝó÷ç Êñáóéïý ðïõ êáôÜöåñå íá ãßíåé óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò êáé ðáñÜäåéãìá ðñïò ìßìçóç (êáé áíôéãñáöÞ!) ãéáôß

åîáóöáëßæåénn ÅðéëåãìÝíá êáé äõóåýñåôá êñáóéÜ, áðü ôïí åëëçíéêü êáé ôïí ðáãêüóìéï áìðåëþíá.nn ¢øïãç óõíôÞñçóç, óå åéäéêÜ äéáìïñöùìÝíïõò êáé êëéìáôéæüìåíïõò ÷þñïõò.nn ÅîáéñåôéêÝò ôéìÝò.nn ÃñÞãïñç êáé äùñåÜí ðáñÜäïóçóôï óðßôé.nn Åããýçóç åðé-óôñïöÞò ÷ñçìÜôùí.

ðñïóöÝñåénn ÏëïêëçñùìÝíç åíçìÝñùóç ìå ôçíÝêäïóç “ôá ÍÅÁôïõ ÏÉÍÅÁ”.nn Õðåýèõíç ðëçñïöüñçóç, ãéá êÜèå èÝìá ðïõ áöïñÜ ôï êñáóß.nn Ãåõóéãíùóßåò êáé ïñãáíùìÝíåò äïêéìÝò êñáóéþí.nn ÅðéóêÝøåéò óå ïéíïðïéåßá êáé áìðåëþíåò.nn Äõíáôüôçôááãïñþí êñáóéþíáðü ôï åîùôåñéêü,ìå ôç ìÝèïäï En Primeur.

äéáèÝôåénn ¸ìðåéñïõò óõíåñãÜôåò, ðïõ áíáæçôïýí äéáñêþò ôï êáëýôåñï.nn ÂéâëéïèÞêç - áíáãíùóôÞñéï, ìå ìåãÜëç óõëëïãÞ âéâëßùí.nn ÌåãÜëç áßèïõóá ïéíéêþí åêäçëþóåùí.

nn Åßíáé ðïëý åýêïëï íá ãßíåé êáíåßò ìÝëïò ôïõ ÏéíÝá. ÁðëÜ óõìðëçñþíåôåôçí áßôçóç åããñáöÞò êáé ôçí ôá÷õäñïìåßôå Þ ôç óôÝëíåôå ìå fax óôá ãñáöåßáìáò. Åðßóçò, ôçëåöùíéêÜ, Þ áêüìá áðü ôçí éóôïóåëßäá ìáò www.oineas.gr.nn Ç åôÞóéá óõíäñïìÞ åßíáé � 30,00 êáé ìðïñåß íá ÷ñåùèåß óôçí ðéóôùôéêÞ óáò êÜñôá, Þ íá ðëçñùèåß ìå ôçí ðñþôç óáò ðáñáããåëßá, åöüóïí óõíïäåýåé ôçí åããñáöÞ óáò.nn Ôï ßäéï åýêïëá -êáé îåêïýñáóôá- ìðïñåßôå íá ðáñáããåßëåôå, ÷ñçóéìïðïéþ-íôáò ôï Äåëôßï Ðáñáããåëßáò, áöïý âÝâáéá ðñþôá óõìâïõëåõèåßôå ôéò áíáëõôé-êÝò ðáñïõóéÜóåéò ôùí êñáóéþí, ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí óôï Ýíôõðï ÅðéëïãÝò ôïõ ÏéíÝá. nn Ôï fax, ôï çëåêôñïíéêü Þ ìç ôá÷õäñïìåßï Þ ôï ôçëÝöùíï, åßíáé ôá ìÝóá ìå ôáïðïßá èá öèÜóåé ç ðáñáããåëßá óáò óå åìÜò.nn Ï Êýêëïò ôùí Ïéíïößëùí âñßóêåôáé óôç äéÜèåóÞ óáò êáèçìåñéíÜ, åêôüòÓáââÜôïõ êáé ÊõñéáêÞò, 9:00-17:00.

ÔÁ ÍÅÁ ÔÏÕ ÏÉÍÅÁÐÅÑÉÏÄÉÊÇ ÅÊÄÏÓÇ ÔÏÕ ÊÕÊËÏÕ ÔÙÍ ÏÉÍÏÖÉËÙ͸ôïò 14 / Ôåý÷ïò 67 / ÓåðôÝìâñéïò 2010ÄéáíÝìåôáé äùñåÜí óôá ìÝëç

Éäéïêôçóßá: ÄÇÌÇÔÅÑ Á.Å.

Åêäüôçò-ÄéåõèõíôÞò, Õðåýèõíïò ãéá ôïí Íüìï: ¸ëëç ÊïññÝ

Êáëëéôå÷íéêÞ åðéìÝëåéá: ËïõêÜò ÌåëÜò

Äéá÷ùñéóìïß, ÌïíôÜæ, Åêôýðùóç: Multimedia ÅöáñìïãÝò ÐëçñïöïñéêÞò ÌÝóùí ÅíçìÝñùóçò Á.Å.

Ãñáöåßá-ÅíôåõêôÞñéï: 13ï ÷ëì. Å.Ï.Á.Ë. & Åëåõèåñßáò 2, ÍÝá ÊçöéóéÜ 14564Ôçë: 210.80.76.685, 210 8076700,210 8076715 / Fax: 210 6254067e-mail: oineas@oineas.grwww.oineas.gr

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ÐÑÏÓ ÏËÕÌÐÉÁÊÏ ×ÙÑÉÏ - ÈÑÁÊÏÌÁÊÅÄÏÍÅÓ

Ðåñéå÷üìåíá Ãíùñßóôå ôïí ÏéíÝá

Editorial

ËïãéêÞ êáé óõíáßóèçìá...

ÌåãÜëï ðñÜãìá ç óõíÞèåéá… Ôï îÝñïõìå üëïé. ¸ëá ðïõ üìùò ç ãíþóç êáé

áêïëïýèùò ç åîÝëéîç áëëÜæïõí óõíå÷þò ôá äåäïìÝíá… Ç ëÝîç "ðñïóáñìïãÞ" åßíáé

ìéá äýóêïëç ëÝîç ãéá ðïëëïýò áðü åìÜò. Äýóêïëç, áëëÜ ü÷é áêáôüñèùôç.

Êáé, öõóéêÜ, åõôõ÷þò ðïõ ôá ðñÜãìáôá áëëÜæïõí. Áëëéþò èá ðßíáìå áêüìá êñáóß

áðü ôïõò… áìöïñåßò!

ÐáñïëáõôÜ, ëïãéêÞ êáé óõíáßóèçìá åßíáé äýï åíôåëþò äéáöïñåôéêÜ ðñÜãìáôá.

¸ôóé, üôáí Üñ÷éóáí äåéëÜ-äåéëÜ íá êõêëïöïñïýí ôá âéäùôÜ ðþìáôá óôçí áãïñÜ ôïõ

êñáóéïý, ç ðñþôç ìïõ óêÝøç Þôáí: "ìá ðùò óôï êáëü ôï óêÝöôçêáí áõôü ãéá ôï

êñáóß;" Âåâáßùò, ôá âéäùôÜ ðþìáôá äåí åßíáé ôá ìüíá. ÕðÜñ÷åé êáé ï óõíèåôéêüò

öåëëüò, ôá ãõÜëéíá ðþìáôá êëð…

Ç áíôßäñáóç áõôÞ åßíáé öõóéêÞ üôáí ç üñáóç ðáßæåé ðñùôáãùíéóôéêü ñüëï óôéò

áéóèÞóåéò ðïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýìå ãéá íá áðïëáýóïõìå ôï êñáóß ìáò. Ãéáôß, ç ðñþôç

ìáò åíôýðùóç áðü ôï êñáóß ðïõ ðñüêåéôáé íá ãåõèïýìå åßíáé ç öéÜëç, Þ ìÜëëïí ç

åéêüíá ôçò öéÜëçò. ¸ôóé, üôáí ç åéêüíá ôçò äåí óõãêëßíåé ìå ôá ïéêåßá äåäïìÝíá

ìáò, ôéò óõíçèéóìÝíåò íüñìåò, ôüôå ÷áëÜåé ôï ðñÜãìá áðü ôçí áñ÷Þ. ¼ðùò åßíáé

öõóéêü, ãéá ìÝíá, üðùò êáé ãéá ðïëëïýò áðü åìÜò ðïõ ôï áãáðÜìå, ôï êñáóß

ðåñéâÜëëåôáé áðü ìéá äéêÞ ôïõ öéëïóïößá, ðïëý äéáöïñåôéêÞ áðü áõôÞ ôùí Üëëùí

ðïôþí -ïéíïðíåõìáôùäþí Þ ìç. Ôï âéäùôü ðþìá, óßãïõñá, äåí Þôáí ìÝñïò ôçò.

Ðñïóðáèþíôáò ëïéðüí ç üñáóç íá ìçí åðçñåáóôåß áðü ôï áñ÷éêü óõíáßóèçìá, üðïõ

âñåèþ äïêéìÜæù öéÜëåò ìå âéäùôü ðþìá. ÖõóéêÜ, ðåñéÝ÷ïõí êñáóéÜ öñÝóêá, ðïõ

äåí Ý÷ïõí ðåñÜóåé áðü âáñÝëé, êñáóéÜ ðïõ ðßíïíôáé ôá ðñþôá ÷ñüíéá ôçò æùÞò

ôïõò, ëåõêÜ, ñïæÝ Þ êüêêéíá. Êáé ðñÝðåé íá ïìïëïãÞóù, ðùò, áí åîáéñÝóù ôï èÝìá

ôçò åìöÜíéóçò ôçò öéÜëçò, äåí ôßèåôáé êáíÝíá Üëëï æÞôçìá. ÁíôéèÝôùò ôá êñáóéÜ

áõôÜ Ý÷åé áðïäåé÷èåß ðùò äéáôçñïýí ôá öñÝóêá áñþìáôÜ ôïõò ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñï

êáéñü.

ÅðéðñïóèÝôùò, åîáëåßöåôáé ï öüâïò -êáé ôñüìïò- ôçò áññþóôéáò ôïõ öåëëïý. Ãéáôß,

áí êáé ï öåëëüò ðáñáìÝíåé ï áãáðçìÝíïò ìáò, á÷þñéóôïò óýíôñïöïò ôïõ êñáóéïý,

ôï ðïóïóôü ôùí "öåëëïìÝíùí" äõóôõ÷þò, áíÜëïãá ìå ôéò ðçãÝò, êõìáßíåôáé áðü 3

Ýùò 12%! Íá ðù üìùò åäþ, ðùò, áêñéâþò åðåéäÞ ç åéêüíá ôçò öéÜëçò ôïõ êñáóéïý

üðùò ôçí Ý÷ïõìå óõíçèßóåé åßíáé óçìáíôéêÞ, ç ôåëåõôáßá "áíáêÜëõøç" åßíáé ï

öåëëüò Diam (áðü ôñßìáôá öõóéêïý öåëëïý êáé óõíèåôéêÜ ìéêñïóöáéñßäéá) ðïõ

óõíäõÜæåé ôï öõóéêü look ôïõ öõóéêïý öåëëïý ìå ôç óéãïõñéÜ ôçò åîÜëåéøçò ôïõ

TCA (trichloroanisole), ÷çìéêïý óôïé÷åßïõ ðïõ öÝñåôáé ùò õðåýèõíï ãéá ôá

"öåëëïìÝíá" êñáóéÜ. ¸ôóé ï Diam åßíáé ìÜëëïí ï éäáíéêüôåñïò áíôéêáôáóôÜôçò ôïõ

öõóéêïý öåëëïý, êáèþò äåí áëëïéþíåé ïýôå ôçí åéêüíá, ïýôå ôç ãåýóç ôùí

áãáðçìÝíùí ìáò êñáóéþí.

¼ôáí ëïéðüí óõíáíôÜìå ìéá öéÜëç ìå åíáëëáêôéêü ôñüðï ðùìáôéóìïý, áò ìçí

âéáæüìáóôå íá ôçí áðïêëåßóïõìå áðü ôéò ïéíéêÝò ìáò åðéëïãÝò, áò ìçí

õðïâéâÜæïõìå ôçí ðïéüôçôÜ ôçò. ÁíôéèÝôùò, áí êñáôÜìå áíïé÷ôïýò ôïõò ïñßæïíôÝò

ìáò, ìÜëëïí ùöåëçìÝíïé èá åßìáóôå üëïé!

Ãéáôß, êáé óôï èÝìá ôïõ êñáóéïý, ôï ðåñéå÷üìåíï ìåôñÜ!

¸ëëç ÊïññÝ

Ôé êñßìá óÞìåñá ðïõ äåí Ý÷ù áñêåôü ÷þ-ñï, íá ðåñéëÜâù áõôïýóéï ôï îåêáñäéóôé-êü áðüóðáóìá áðü ôï ÄåêáÞìåñï ôïõÂïêÜêéïõ (óôçí áñéóôïôå÷íéêÞ ìåôÜöñá-óç ôïõ ÊïóìÜ Ðïëßôç), ðïõ îåöýëëéæá îá-íÜ ðñüóöáôá. (ÐáñåíèåôéêÜ, ðïéüò èáâñåèåß ðÜëé íá åëååéíïëïãÞóåé ôéò Êõ-ñéáêÜôéêåò åöçìåñßäåò- åäþ, ôçí Åëåõ-èåñïôõðßá- ðïõ, ãéá íá ðñïóåëêýóïõíðåëÜôåò, óýìöùíïé, ðñïóöÝñïõí óõ-ìðëçñùìáôéêÜ óôïõò áíáãíþóôåò ôïõòôÝôïéá äéáìÜíôéá;) Ï ÂïêÜêéïò éóôïñåß óôï êåöÜëáéï áõôüôïõ çìåñïëïãßïõ ôïõ ëïãÞò ëïãÞò áðï-óôïìùôéêÝò áðáíôÞóåéò. Êáé öôÜíåé ó' Ý-íáí "ôáðåéíü" öïýñíáñç- ï ïñéóìüò ôïõðëçâåßïõ êáôÜ ôá Üëëá- ðïõ îÝñåé üìùòíá ðñïìçèåýåôáé ôá êáëýôåñá ëåõêÜ êáéêüêêéíá êñáóéÜ ôçò ÔïóêÜíçò. ¸÷åé ôþñáäåëåÜóåé ìéá óõíôñïöéÜ ðáôñéêßùí (îÝíïéðñåóâåõôÝò óôç Öëùñåíôßá) ðïõ åôïéìÜ-æïíôáé íá äïêéìÜóïõí ôïõò óõëëåêôéêïýòèçóáõñïýò ôïõ.

¼ëïé óõìöþíçóáí ðùò åß÷áí êáéñü íáðéïýí ôüóï êáëü êñáóß, êáé äåí Ýâñéóêáíëüãéá íá ôï ðáéíÝøïõí. ¼óï äéÜóôçìá Ý-ìåéíáí ïé ðñåóâåõôÝò óôç Öëùñåíôßá, Ýñ-

÷ïíôáí êÜèå ðñùß ó÷åäüí, ìáæß ìå ôïí ìå-óÝñ ÔæÝñé, êé Ýðéíáí óôïõ Ôóßóôé. ¼ôáí ðéáïé îÝíïé åôïéìÜæïíôáí íá öýãïõí, ï ìåóÝñÔæÝñé Ýäùóå Ýíá ìåãÜëï ãåýìá êáé êÜëå-óå ó' áõôü ìåñéêïýò áðü ôïõò ðéï åîÝ÷ï-íôåò ðïëßôåò. ¸óôåéëå ìéá ðñüóêëçóç êáéóôïí Ôóßóôé, ðïõ üìùò ãéá êáíÝíá ëüãï äåèÝëçóå íá ðÜåé. Ùóôüóï, áõôü äåí åìðüäéóå ôïí ìåóÝñÔæÝñé íá óôåßëåé Ýíáí õðçñÝôç óôïý öïõñ-íÜñç êáé íá æçôÞóåé Ýíá ìðïõêÜëé áð' ôïðåñßöçìï êñáóß ôïõ... Ï õðçñÝôçò, ðåé-óìùìÝíïò ðïõ äåí åß÷å ðéåß ðïôÝ ôïõ êéáõôüò ôÝôïéï êñáóß, ðÞñå ìáæß ôïõ ìéá ÷é-ëéÜñá. Óáí ôçí åßäå ï Ôóßóôé, ôïõ åßðå:"ÃéÝ ìïõ, óßãïõñá ï ìåóÝñ ÔæÝñé äåí ó' Ý-óôåéëå ó' åìÝíá."¼óï êé áí åðÝìåéíå ï õðçñÝôçò, äå ìðü-ñåóå íá ðÜñåé Üëëç áðÜíôçóç, êé Ýôóé ãý-ñéóå êáé ôï áíÝöåñå óôïí áöÝíôç ôïõ."ÎáíáðÞãáéíå", ôïõ åßðå ï ìåóÝñ ÔæÝñé,"êáé ðåò óôïí Ôóßóôé ðùò äåí Ýêáíåò ëÜ-èïò êáé ðùò óå Ýóôåéëá ó' áõôüí. Êé áíóïõ äþóåé ôçí ßäéá áðÜíôçóç, ñþôçóÝ ôïíóå ðïéüí ìðïñåß íá óå Ýóôåéëá".Ï õðçñÝôçò îáíáðÞãå... "Ôóßóôé, äåí ÷ù-ñÜåé áìöéâïëßá, ï ìåóÝñ ÔæÝñé ìå óôÝëíåéó' åóÝíá". Êáé ï Ôóßóôé ôïõ áðïêñßèçêå:

"Óßãïõñá ü÷é, ãéÝ ìïõ". "Ôüôå óå ðïéüí ìåóôÝëíåé;" ... "Óôïí ¢ñíï" (ôïí ðïôáìü ðïõäéáó÷ßæåé ôçí Öëùñåíôßá Ó.Ó.). Ï ìåóÝñÔæÝñé, üôáí ôïõ ôï áíÝöåñå ï õðçñÝôçò,ìðÞêå åðß ôÝëïõò óôï íüçìá...: "Äåßîåìïõ ôï ìðïõêÜëé ðïõ ðÞãåò". Êáé óáí ôï'äå: "Ï Ôóßóôé Ý÷åé äßêéï!". Êáé áöïý ôïí Ý-âñéóå áðü ôçí êáëÞ, ðñüóôáîå íá äþóïõíóôïí õðçñÝôç Ýíá êáíïíéêü ìðïõêÜëé.ÂëÝðïíôÜò ôï ï Ôóßóôé, åßðå óôïí õðçñÝ-ôç: "Ôþñá íáé, êáôáëáâáßíù, ó' åìÝíå óåóôÝëíåé". Ôï ãÝìéóå ðñüó÷áñá, êáé ôçí ßäéá ìÝñáãÝìéóå êé Ýíá âáñåëÜêé ìå ôï ßäéï Üóðñïêñáóß êáé ôï' óôåéëå ìå ôïõò ÷áéñåôéóìïýòóôïõ óôï óðßôé ôïõ ìåóÝñ ÔæÝñé. ¾óôåñáðÞãå êé ï ßäéïò, ôïí âñÞêå êáé ôïõ åßðå:"ÌåóÝñ, äå èá' èåëá íá íïìßóåôå ðùò öï-âÞèçêá óáí åßäá ôç ÷éëéÜñá óÞìåñá ôïðñùß. ÖáíôÜóôçêá üìùò ðùò äåí åß÷áôåáíôéëçöèåß ôé óÞìáéíáí ôá ìéêñÜ êáíáôÜêéáðïõ óáò Ýâãáæá óôïí öïýñíï ìïõ, áðëïý-óôáôá ðùò ôï êñáóß ìïõ äåí åßíáé ôñå÷ïý-ìåíï êñáóß... ÁëëÜ (ðÜëé) äåí åß÷á ôçí á-îßùóç íá' ìáé ï ìïíáäéêüò êÜôï÷üò ôïõ,êáé óáò Ýóôåéëá (óôá êáôÜëëçëá äï÷åßá)üóï ìïõ áðüìåíå. ÊÜíôå ôï ü,ôé Ý÷åôå åõ-÷áñßóôçóç." l

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ìå ôç öñïíôßäá ôïõ ÄçìÞôñç ÐïôáìéÜíïõÏéíéêÜÁíÜëåêôá

Ï óùóôüò ðáñáëÞðôçò

ÁããåëéêÞ ÐáíáãïðïýëïõÅíôüò & Åêôüò

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Çéóôïñßá ôùí Åõñùðáúêþí êÝéê êáéôùí øçôþí ãëõêéóìÜôùí ìå õöÞøùìéïý Üñ÷éóå áðü ôç ÌÝóç Áíá-

ôïëÞ. Ïé ðïëéôéóìïß ðïõ Üêìáæáí óôç Ì. Á-íáôïëÞ êáé áñãüôåñá ïé ¸ëëçíåò êáé ïéÑùìáßïé äçìéïýñãçóáí ìéá ôåñÜóôéá áãï-ñÜ áñùìáôéêþí (åî áéôßáò ôùí ìðá÷áñé-êþí ðïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýóáí) êáé åîáéñåôéêÜãåõóôéêþí ãëõêþí ìå õëéêÜ ðïõ ìåôÝöå-ñáí óôïí ôüðï ôïõò áðü ôçí Êßíá, ôçí Éí-äßá êáé ôçí ÊåûëÜíç äéáó÷ßæïíôáò îçñÜêáé èÜëáóóá. ¾óôåñá áðü ôçí ðôþóç ôçò ÑùìáúêÞò Áõ-ôïêñáôïñßáò êáé ãéá áñêåôïýò áéþíåò ìå-

ôÜ, ç Âüñåéá Åõñþðç Þôáí áðïêïììÝíç á-ðü ôç Ìåóüãåéï. ¼ìùò êáôÜ ôïí 11ï áéþ-íá ïé Óôáõñïöüñïé áíáêÜëõøáí îáíÜ ôéòãëõêÝò áðïëáýóåéò ôçò ìåóáíáôïëéêÞòìáãåéñéêÞò êáé Ýöåñáí óôçí Åõñþðç ôéòóõíôáãÝò ìáæß ìå ôá õëéêÜ ôïõò. Åðßóçòóôçí Åõñþðç Ýðáéîáí óçìáíôéêü ñüëï óôçæá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ ôá ìïíáóôÞñéá, éäéáßôåñáç éóðáíéêÞ æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ óôçñßæåôáé ó'áõôÜ. ÐáñÜ ôéò äõóêïëßåò êáé óõ÷íÜ âÜñâáñåòóõíèÞêåò ðïõ åðéêñáôïýóáí êáôÜ ôï Ìå-óáßùíá, ïé ìïíá÷ïß åîáêïëïõèïýóáí í' á-íáðôýóóïõí ôç äéêÞ ôïõò ðáñáãùãÞ ãëõ-

êéóìÜôùí üðïõ êáëëéåñãïýóáí âüôáíá,ëá÷áíéêÜ êáé ïðùñïöüñá äÝíäñá. Ïé ìï-íá÷ïß Þôáí ïé ðñþôïé ðïõ ðåéñáìáôßóôç-êáí ìå ôá êáéíïýñãéá õëéêÜ ðïõ Ýöåñáí ïéÓôáõñïöüñïé êé Ýôóé äçìéïýñãçóáí ìéá æá-÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ êáé ìáãåéñéêÞ ðáñÜäïóçðïõ êñáôÜåé ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá. Óôï ìåôáîý ç Âåíåôßá åìöáíßæåôáé ùò çìåãáëýôåñç áãïñÜ ãéá ôï åìðüñéï ìå ôçíÁíáôïëÞ. Ç Éôáëßá ãßíåôáé ç ãÝöõñá ðïõóõíäÝåé ôéò åîùôéêÝò ôå÷íéêÝò êáé ãåý-óåéò ôçò áíáôïëÞò ìå ôçí Åõñþðç. Áðüôïõò ¢ñáâåò ïé Éôáëïß ìáèáßíïõí ôç ðáñá-óêåõÞ ãëõêþí êáé óïñìðÝ.

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ôïõ ÓôÝëéïõ ÐáñëéÜñïõ / Öùô: ¢ëêçò ÊáëïýäçòDolceVita

Ç ÌÉÊÑÇ ÉÓÔÏÑÉÁ ÔÙÍÃËÕÊÙÍ ÔÇÓ ÅÕÑÙÐÇÓ

Ýíá ãëõêü ðáôÝ ðïõ óáò äßíù ôç óõíôáãÞðáñáêÜôù.ÕËÉÊÁn 160 ãñ. æÜ÷áñç êïéíÞn 125 ãñ. áëåýñén 3 êñüêïé áõãþín 3 áóðñÜäéá áõãþín 50 ãñ. âïýôõñï

öïñá öñïýôá üðùò óôáöýëéá êáé éäéáßôåñáôá óýêá ÁôôéêÞò ðïõ Þôáí öçìéóìÝíá.Ôï êñáóß ôïõò ôï áñùìÜôéæáí ìå èõìÜñé,ìÝíôá, êáíÝëá êáé ìÝëé. ÁëëÜ ç ìåôáãåíÝ-óôåñç åëëçíéêÞ æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ óáöþòåßíáé åðçñåáóìÝíç áðü ôçí ÔïõñêéêÞ. ÂÝ-âáéá õðÜñ÷ïõí áñêåôÜ ôïðéêÜ ãëõêÜ áíÜôçí ÅëëÜäá ðïõ åßíáé åýãåõóôá êáé ðïë-ëÝò öïñÝò ëáôñåìÝíá. ÖôéÜ÷ôçêáí áðüáíèñþðïõò ìå ìåñÜêé êáé öáíôáóßá áðüáðëÜ æõìÜñéá, ìáëáêÜ ôõñéÜ, ìÝëé êáé áìý-ãäáëá (ôïðéêÜ áìõãäáëùôÜ óôá ãýñù íç-óéÜ). ÔÝôïéá ãëõêÜ õðÜñ÷ïõí áñêåôÜ, áí øÜ-îïõìå èá ôá âñïýìå ó' üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá,äéáöïñåôéêÜ óå êÜèå ôüðï, áíÜëïãá ìåôçí ðáñáãùãÞ ðñïúüíôùí ôïõ êÜèå ôü-ðïõ. ÁëëÜ äõóôõ÷þò, áõôÜ ôá ãëõêÜ äåíìáò åêöñÜæïõí, ãéáôß ßóùò äåí ôá èåù-ñïýìå ãëõêÜ æá÷áñïðëáóôåßïõ. ºóùò -êáéôï åý÷ïìáé- í' áëëÜîïõí ôá ðñÜãìáôá áíêÜðïéïò åðé÷åéñïýóå íá ôá êÜíåé ìüäá ì'Ýíá óýã÷ñïíï ôñüðï êáé ìéá ùñáßá óõ-óêåõáóßá. ÐïôÝ äåí åßíáé áñãÜ….

BISCUIT DE REIMSÔï ìðéóêüôï ôçò ÑÝíò äåí åß÷å ðÜíôá ôïó÷Þìá ðïõ Ý÷åé óÞìåñá. ÊáôÜ ôïí 18ïáéþíá, Þôáí ðéï ïãêþäåò ãéáôß ïé æá÷áñï-ðëÜóôåò ôïõ Ýäéíáí ôçí ôåëéêÞ ìïñöÞðñéí ôï øÞóéìï ÷ñçóéìïðïéþíôáò ÝíáêïõôÜëé, ãé'áõôü êáé ëÝãåôáé ìðéóêüôïêïõôáëéïý. Ç ðñùôïðïñßá êé åäþ áíÞêåéóôïí ÊáñÝì (¸íáò áðü ôïõò äéáóçìüôå-ñïõò ÃÜëëïõò æá÷áñïðëÜóôåò - Ðáñßóé1783-1833). Åñãáæüìåíïò óôçí õðçñåóß-á ôïõ ÔáëëåûñÜíäïõ, ï ïðïßïò áãáðïýóåíá âïõôÜåé Ýíá ìðéóêüôï ó'Ýíá ðïôÞñéêñáóß ÌáäÝñáò êáé ðáñáðïíéüôáí ãéáôß Ý-ðñåðå íá ôï êüâåé óôá äýï. Ï ÊáñÝì óêÝ-öôçêå íá âÜëåé ôç æýìç ìÝóá ó'Ýíá ÷áñ-ôüíé ÷ùíß, ôïõ ïðïßïõ Ýêïøå ôçí Üêñç êáéÝôóé êáôÜöåñå íá öôéÜîåé ìðéóêüôá ìá-êñéÜ êáé óôï ðÜ÷ïò áíôß÷åéñá. Éêáíïðïéç-ìÝíïò áðü ôï áðïôÝëåóìá ôá Ýøçóå êáéôá óÝñâéñå óôïí ðñßãêéðá ï ïðïßïò Ýóôåé-ëå ìåñéêÜ óôïí ÍáðïëÝïíôá êáé ôá åêôß-ìçóå éäéáßôåñá. ¸ôóé ÷Üñç ó'áõôü ôï ìðé-óêüôï åöåõñÝèçêå ôï ëåãüìåíï êïñíÝ.Ôá ìðéóêüôá ôçò ÑÝíò óõíÞèùò óåñâßñï-íôáé ìå óáìðÜíéá êáé öôéÜ÷íïõìå åðßóçò

Ôï 1553 üôáí ç Áéêáôåñßíç ôùí Ìåäßêùíôáîßäåøå áðü ôç Öëùñåíôßá óôï Ðáñßóéãéá ôï ãÜìï ôçò ìå ôï ìåëëïíôéêü âáóéëéÜÅññßêï ´, Ýöåñå ìáæß ôçò ìéá ïìÜäá áðüåîåéäéêåõìÝíïõò ìáãåßñïõò êáé æá÷áñï-ðëÜóôåò êáé Ýôóé ïé ÃÜëëïé ãíþñéóáí ôáìõóôéêÜ ôçò ÉôáëéêÞò ìáãåéñéêÞò êá æá÷á-ñïðëáóôéêÞò ðïõ Ýêñõâå ìÝóá ôçò ðïëëÜóôïé÷åßá ôçò ìåóáíáôïëéêÞò êïõæßíáò. Ìåôç ðÜñïäï ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ ç æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞáíáðôý÷èçêå óçìáíôéêÜ êáé Ýöôáóå óôïóçìåßï íá èåùñåßôáé ìéá áðü ôéò ðïëéôé-óìÝíåò ôÝ÷íåò. ÊáôÜ ôï 18ï áéþíá ï êáöÝò, ôï ôóÜ-é êáé ç óïêïëÜôá êáèéåñþèçêáí ùò ôá ðéïìïíôÝñíá ñïöÞìáôá ôçò áíþôåñçò ôÜîçòêáé ôá øçôÜ ãëõêßóìáôá Þôáí ôï áðáñáßôç-ôï óõíïäåõôéêü ôïõò. Áðü ôá ìÝóá ôïõ19ïõ áéþíá êáé ìåôÜ ï êáöÝò êáé ôï ôóÜ-é êáèéåñþèçêáí óáí êëáóóéêÝò þñåò ãåõ-ìÜôùí ó' üëåò ôéò êïéíùíéêÝò ôÜîåéò. Ìåôáîý ôùí Åõñùðáúêþí ÷ùñþí Ý÷ïõìåìåãÜëåò äéáöïñÝò ãëõêéóìÜôùí ðïõ å-îáñôþíôáé áðü ôçí êïõëôïýñá ôïõ êÜèåëáïý. ÌåãÜëç öÞìç Ý÷åé ç Áõóôñï-ïõããá-ñÝæéêç æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ üðïõ êñáôÜåé áðüôçí åðï÷Þ ôùí Áõôïêñáôüñùí. Åäþ óõíá-íôÜìå ãëõêÜ ðéï óðéôéêÜ ðïõ Ý÷ïõí ôç áß-óèçóç ôïõ ÷åéñïðïßçôïõ êáé ìåãáëýôåñçìÜæá. Ôï ßäéï óõìâáßíåé êáé óôéò ãýñù ÷þ-ñåò üðùò Ðïëùíßá, Ãåñìáíßá. Ïé ÅëâåôïßÝ÷ïõí ìéá ðéï íôåëéêÜôç æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ,÷ñçóéìïðïéþíôáò áñêåôÜ ôï kirsch êáé ôçóïêïëÜôá. Ç éôáëéêÞ æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞ åßíáéðéï áðëÞ êáé ßóùò ðéï êïíôÜ óôéò ãåýóåéòìáò êáé óáöþò ç Éôáëßá åßíáé ðñùôïðüñïòóôï ðáãùôü. Ç áããëéêÞ æá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞäåí öçìßæåôáé éäéáéôÝñùò üðùò êáé ïé âï-ñåéüôåñåò ÷þñåò, üðïõ üëç ç Åõñþðç åß-íáé åðçñåáóìÝíç áðü ôç ãáëëéêÞ æá÷áñï-ðëáóôéêÞ. ¢ëëùóôå ïé ôÜóåéò êáé ïé ìüäåòäçìéïõñãïýíôáé áðü ó÷ïëÝò êáé ìåãÜëåòåóôßåò ôçò Ãáëëßáò. Óôçí Áñ÷áßá ÅëëÜäá åíþ ïé ¸ëëçíåò Þôáíëéôïäßáéôïé, äçìéïýñãçóáí ôçí ðéï åêëå-ðôõóìÝíç êïõæßíá ôçò åðï÷Þò. ¹ôáí áõ-ôïß ïé ðñþôïé ðïõ Ýãñáøáí âéâëßá ìáãåéñé-êÞò. Ïé Áèçíáßïé óôá óõìðüóéá óõíÞèéæáíãéá åðéäüñðéá íá ðñïóöÝñïõí ãëõêÜöôéáãìÝíá áðü áëåýñé, ôõñß, ìÝëé Õìçôôïý,óôáößäåò, êáâïõñäéóìÝíá êáñýäéá, äéÜ-

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n 30 ãñ. æÜ÷áñç êïéíÞn 30 ãñ. Ü÷íç n 20 ãñ. êüñí öëÜïõñn ëßãç âáíßëéá óêüíçn ìåñéêÝò óôáãüíåò êüêêéíåò óôáãüíåòæá÷áñïðëáóôéêÞòÅÊÔÅËÅÓÇÌÝóá ó'Ýíá ìðþë ôïõ ìßîåñ êôõðÜìå ôïõò

êñüêïõò ôùí áõãþí ìå ôç æÜ÷áñç ãéá 5-6ëåðôÜ óå ìÝôñéá ôá÷ýôçôá ãéá íá öïõóêþ-óïõí. ÐñïóèÝôïõìå ôá áóðñÜäéá áêôýðç-ôá ñß÷íïíôáò áðü ëßãï êÜèå öïñÜ óå 5-6äüóåéò ãéá 3 ëåðôÜ, ãéá íá öïõóêþóåé êáéíá óôñþóåé ôï ìßãìá êáëÜ. ÐñïóèÝôïõìåôï ÷ñþìá . ¸ðåéôá åíóùìáôþíïõìå ôï á-ëåýñé áíáêáôåýïíôáò áðáëÜ ìå ìéá óðÜ-

ôïõëá. Óôï ôÝëïò ðñïóèÝôïõìå ìéá êïõ-ôáëéÜ ôïõ ãëõêïý íåñü. Ìå ôï íåñü ç æý-ìç èá ãßíåé ðéï ëåßá, è'áðëþóåé êáëýôåñáìÝóá óôéò öüñìåò êáé èá ðÜñåé ìéá ëáìðå-ñÞ üøç. Âïõôõñþíïõìå åëáöñÜ áëëÜ ï-ìïéüìïñöá ìéêñÝò ðáñáëëçëüãñáììåòöïñìßôóåò. Ðáóðáëßæïõìå ôï åóùôåñéêüêÜèå öüñìáò ìå ôá 30 ãñ. Ü÷íç ,30 ãñ. æÜ-

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æýìç. ÖôéÜ÷íïõìå ìéá ìðÜëá êáé ôç ÷áñÜ-æïõìå ì'Ýíá ìá÷áßñé óå ó÷Þìá óôáõñïý.Ôç óêåðÜæïõìå ìå ìéá ðåôóÝôá. Ôçí áöÞ-íïõìå ½ þñá íá "îåêïõñáóôåß" óôï øõ-ãåßï. ÌåôÜ áíïßãïõìå ôç æýìç êáé ôçí á-ðëþíïõìå îåêéíþíôáò áðü ôéò 4 ãùíßåòðïõ ó÷çìáôßæåé ï óôáõñüò. Óôï êÝíôñï ôï-ðïèåôïýìå ôï óêëçñü âïýôõñï ðïõ ôï Ý-÷ïõìå êôõðÞóåé åëáöñþò ãéá íá ëåðôýíåé.ÖÝñíïõìå ôéò 4 ãùíßåò óôï êÝíôñï êáé êá-ëýðôïõìå ôï âïýôõñï. Ì'Ýíá ìðëÜóôñéðéÝæïõìå êáé áíïßãïõìå ó'Ýíá ìáêñüóôå-íï öýëëï. Ôï ôõëßãïõìå óôá 3 êáé ôï áöÞ-íïõìå óôï øõãåßï ãéá ½ þñá. Åðáíáëáì-âÜíïõìå ôçí ßäéá äéáäéêáóßá 2 öïñÝò. Êá-ôüðéí áíïßãïõìå ôç óöïëéÜôá ìå ôç âïÞ-èåéá ôïõ ìðëÜóôñé êáé ìå ëßãï áëåýñé, êÜ-ôù áðü 5 ÷éëéïóôÜ. Ôïðïèåôïýìå óå ìéáëáìáñßíá öïýñíïõ êáé ì'Ýíá ðéñïýíé ôñõ-ðÜìå üëç ôçí åðéöÜíåéá. ÁöÞíïõìå ½ þ-ñá óôï øõãåßï êáé øÞíïõìå óôïõò 160-170ïC ãéá 45 ëåðôÜ ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí ìÝ÷ñé íáôñßâåôáé ç óöïëéÜôá. ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÊÑÅÌÁ: ÂÜæïõìå ôï áëåýñé ó'Ýíáâáèý óêåýïò, ðñïóèÝôïõìå ôç æÜ÷áñç, á-íáêáôåýïõìå êáé ñß÷íïõìå ôá áõãÜ. Óõíå-÷ßæïõìå ôï áíáêÜôåìá ìÝ÷ñé ôï ìåßãìá íáãßíåé Ýíáò ÷õëüò. Óå ìéá êáôóáñüëá âñÜ-æïõìå ôï ãÜëá ìå ôï êëùíáñÜêé âáíßëéáòêïììÝíï êÜèåôá. Ðáßñíïõìå ôç ìéóÞ ðï-óüôçôá áðü ôï ãÜëá êáé ôç ðñïóèÝôïõìåóôï ìåßãìá ôùí áõãþí. Áíáêáôåýïõìå êá-ëÜ êáé ôï ñß÷íïõìå óôï õðüëïéðï ãÜëá. Á-íáêáôåýïõìå ôï ìåßãìá ðÜíù óôç öùôéÜêáé ìüëéò âñÜóåé áðïóýñïõìå. ÐñïóèÝ-ôïõìå ôï âïýôõñï (êáé ôç âáíßëéá, áí âÜ-ëïõìå ÷çìéêÞ). Áöáéñïýìå ôï êëùíáñÜêéôçò âáíßëéáò êáé áäåéÜæïõìå ó'Ýíá ÷áìçëüóêåýïò. ÓêåðÜæïõìå áìÝóùò ìå ìåìâñÜ-íç Ýôóé þóôå íá êïëëÜåé ðÜíù óôç êñÝìá(ãéá íá ìç êÜíåé êñïýóôá). ¼ôáí ç êñÝìáêñõþóåé ðïëý êáëÜ ôçí áíáêáôåýïõìå ìåôç êñÝìá ãÜëáêôïò óå ðá÷ýññåõóôç ìïñ-öÞ. Êüâïõìå ôá öýëëá óöïëéÜôáò óå 3 ß-óá ìÝñç êáé ôá ãåìßæïõìå ìå ôçí êñÝìá.Ðáóðáëßæïõìå ìå Ü÷íç.* Ôï mille-feuille åßíáé Ýíá ãëõêü ðïõöôéÜ÷íåôáé êáé êáôáíáëþíåôáé ôç ßäéá ìÝ-ñá êáé êáôÜ ðñïôßìçóç íá ìç ìðåé óôïøõãåßï ãéá íá Ý÷ïõìå ôñáãáíü öýëëï êáéü÷é ðáíéáóìÝíï. l

ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÌÁÑÅÃÊÁ: ×ôõðÜìå ôá áóðñÜäéáóå ìáñÝãêá êáé óéãÜ-óéãÜ, ñß÷íïõìå ôç æÜ-÷áñç êáé ôï áëÜôé. Óõíå÷ßæïõìå ôï êôýðç-ìá ìÝ÷ñé íá ðåôý÷ïõìå ìéá óöéêôÞ ìáñÝ-ãêá. Ôïðïèåôïýìå ó' Ýíá ôçãÜíé ôï ãÜëáêáé ôï áöÞíïõìå íá âñÜóåé. Êëåßíïõìå ôçöùôéÜ êáé ìå äõï ìåãÜëá êïõôÜëéá ðïõ ôáÝ÷ïõìå âïõôÞîåé óå êñýï íåñü, ðáßñíïõ-ìå êïõôáëéÝò áðü ôç ìáñÝãêá êáé ôéò ñß-÷íïõìå ìÝóá óôï ãÜëá. ÅðáíáëáìâÜíïõìåìå ôçí õðüëïéðç ìáñÝãêá. ÁöÞíïõìå ôçðëåõñÜ ðñïò ôï ãÜëá ãéá Ýíá ëåðôü êáé ôáãõñßæïõìå áðü ôçí Üëëç ðëåõñÜ ðñïò ôïãÜëá. ÁíÜâïõìå ðÜëé ôç öùôéÜ êáé ìüëéòáñ÷ßóåé íá âñÜæåé ôçí êëåßíïõìå. Ìå ìéáêïõôÜëá áöáéñïýìå ôéò ìáñÝãêåò áðü ôïãÜëá åðÜíù óå ìéá ðåôóÝôá. Óå áôïìéêÜìðùë óåñâßñïõìå áñêåôÞ áðü ôç óùò, ôï-ðïèåôïýìå ìéá Þ äõï áðü ôéò øçìÝíåò ìá-ñÝãêåò êáé ôéò ñáíôßæïõìå ìå ôç óùò êá-ñáìÝëáò. (Öùôï óôçí ðñþôç óåëßäá)

MILLE-FEUILLÅ1000 ÖÕËËÁ ÌÅ ÊÑÅÌÁÔï ðåñßöçìï mille-feuille åßíáé ðñïóùðé-êüò èñßáìâïò ôïõ äéÜóçìïõ ÃÜëëïõ æá÷á-ñïðëÜóôç Rouger. Áõôü ôï ãëõêü ãåííÞ-èçêå áðü ìéá éäéïöõÀá êáé ðëÜóôçêå áðüåðéäÝîéá ÷Ýñéá ôï 1807.ÕËÉÊÁ ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÓÖÏËÉÁÔÁn 500 ãñ. áëåýñé óêëçñün 15 ãñ. áëÜôén 200 ãñ. âïýôõñï óå êïììáôÜêéán 200 ãñ. íåñün 200 ãñ. âïýôõñï óêëçñü(ÐñïáéñåôéêÜ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýìå ÝôïéìçóöïëéÜôá)ÕËÉÊÁ ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÊÑÅÌÁn 1000 ãñ. ãÜëán 200 ãñ. æÜ÷áñç êñõóôáëëéêÞn 120 ãñ. áëåýñén 4 áõãÜn 50 ãñ. âïýôõñïn 1 êëùíáñÜêé âáíßëéá Þ âáíßëéá ÷çìéêÞn 300 ãñ. êñÝìá ãÜëáêôïò óå ðá÷ýñ-ñåõóôç ìïñöÞÅÊÔÅËÅÓÇÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÓÖÏËÉÁÔÁ: Ó'Ýíá óêåýïò ôïðïèå-ôïýìå ôï áëåýñé, ôï áëÜôé, ôï íåñü êáé ôïâïýôõñï. Æõìþíïõìå êáëÜ ìå ôï ÷Ýñé ìÝ-÷ñé íá ó÷çìáôéóôåß ìéá ëåßá êáé åëáóôéêÞ

÷áñç êïéíÞ êáé ôï êüñí öëÜïõñ ðïõ ôá Ý-÷ïõìå áíáêáôÝøåé ðñïçãïõìÝíùò. Ãåìß-æïõìå ôéò öüñìåò ìå ôç æýìç ÷ñçóéìï-ðïéþíôáò Ýíá êïñíÝ ìå óôüìéï (÷ùñßò äü-íôéá) äéáìÝôñïõ åíüò åêáôïóôïý.ÁöÞíïõìå ôá ìðéóêüôá 10-15 ëåðôÜ óåèåñìïêñáóßá äùìáôßïõ ãéá íá ó÷çìáôßóåéç æýìç ìéá ëåðôÞ êñïýóôá. Ôá ðáóðáëß-æïõìå ìå ôçí õðüëïéðç æÜ÷áñç áðü ôéòöüñìåò, ôá áöÞíïõìå íá óôåãíþóïõí ãéáÜëëá 10 ëåðôÜ áêüìç êáé ôá øÞíïõìå ãéá20-25 ëåðôÜ óôïõò 18ïC. Ôá ìðéóêüôááõôÜ ôá äéáôçñïýìå ìÝóá óå óáêïýëá Þìåôáëëéêü êïõôß. Åßíáé ðïëý ôñáãáíÜ ü-ðùò åßðáìå êáé ôá âïõôÜìå óå óáìðÜíéáÞ áí èÝëïõìå óå ñüöçìá ôçò áñåóêåßáòìáò.

ILE FLOTTANTEÕËÉÊÁ ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÌÁÑÅÃÊÁn 200 ãñ. æÜ÷áñçn 6 áóðñÜäéá áõãþín 1 ðñÝæá áëÜôén 1 êéëü ãÜëáÕËÉÊÁ ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÓÙÓn 400 ãñ. ãÜëán 100 ãñ. êñÝìá ãÜëáêôïòn 6 êñüêïé áõãþín 100 ãñ. æÜ÷áñçn ½ stick âáíßëéáòÕËÉÊÁ ÃÉÁ ÔÇÍ ÊÁÑÁÌÅËÁn 200 ãñ. æÜ÷áñçn 50 ãñ. íåñün 1 ÷õìü ëåìïíéïýn 100 ãñ. æåóôü íåñün îýóìá áðü Ýíá ðïñôïêÜëéÅÊÔÅËÅÓÇÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÊÁÑÁÌÅËÁ: ÂñÜæïõìå ôç æÜ÷áñçìå ôá 50 ãñ. íåñü êáé ôï ÷õìü ëåìïíéïý.Ìüëéò áñ÷ßóåé íá ãßíåôáé óêïýñá êáñáìÝ-ëá ñß÷íïõìå ìå ðñïóï÷Þ ãéá íá ìç êáïý-ìå, ôï æåóôü íåñü êáé ôï îýóìá áðü ôïðïñôïêÜëé. ÁöÞíïõìå íá êñõþóåé.ÃÉÁ ÔÇ ÓÙÓ: Óå ìéá ìéêñÞ êáôóáñüëá âÜ-æïõìå ôï ãÜëá, ôçí êñÝìá êáé ôç âáíßëéá.Áíáêáôåýïõìå ôïõò êñüêïõò ìå ôç æÜ÷á-ñç êáé ñß÷íïõìå ôï ìßãìá ìÝóá óôï ãÜëá.Ôï ôïðïèåôïýìå óôç öùôéÜ áíáêáôåýï-íôáò óõíå÷þò êáé ðñéí áñ÷ßóåé íá âñÜæåé-äçë. óôïõò 84ïC- êáôåâÜæïõìå áðü ôçöùôéÜ êáé áëëÜæïõìå óêåýïò.

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Ï ãñßöïò ôùí Carruades de Lafite

Ç ôéìÞ ôçò äåýôåñçò åôéêÝôáò ôïõ Lafite Ý÷åé áõîçèåß áðü ôéò 200 ëßñåò Áã-ãëßáò ôï êéâþôéï Üëëåò 10 öïñÝò ôá ôåëåõôáßá 5 ÷ñüíéá, óõíïøßæïíôáò

ôçí áðïëáõóôéêÞ üóï êáé ïäõíçñÞ ëáôñåßá ôçò ðïëõôÝëåéáò ôùí ÊéíÝæùí. Ðñéí áðü äÝêá ÷ñüíéá, Ýãñáøá ðùò, üðïôå ç Êßíá áãïñÜæåé, ç ôéìÞ áíåâáß-

íåé êáé, üðïôå ç Êßíá ðïõëÜ, ç ôéìÞ êáôåâáßíåé. Ðñüóöáôá, ôñïðïðïßçóá ôï äåý-ôåñï ìéóü ôçò ðñüôáóçò áõôÞò ùò åîÞò: üðïôå ç Êßíá ðïõëÜ, ç ôéìÞ áíåâáßíåéêáé ðÜëé. Äéüôé ðéóôåýù ðùò ôï åñãáôéêü êüóôïò óôçí Êßíá èá ôåôñáðëáóéáóôåßôá åðüìåíá äÝêá ÷ñüíéá.

Ôï óýíèçìá åßíáé "ðáé÷íßäé óôá ìÝôñá ôçò Êßíáò". ÏéêïíïìéêÜ ìéëþíôáò, ïéðåñéóóüôåñåò ðáñáôçñÞóåéò Ý÷ïõí óáí âÜóç ìéêñÝò áíáôáñÜîåéò åíüò ðïëý-ðëïêïõ óõóôÞìáôïò. Ðáñáäåßãìáôïò ÷Üñç, üôáí Ýíá ìéêñü êñÜôïò ìðáßíåé óôïäéåèíÝò óýóôçìá åìðïñßïõ, ïé ïéêïíïìïëüãïé áðïôéìïýí ôïí áíôßêôõðï óôçí ïé-êïíïìßá ôçò ÷þñáò áõôÞò, âáóéóìÝíï óôç óýãêëéóç ôùí ôéìþí ôçò ìå ôéò äéå-èíåßò ôéìÝò. ¼ôáí ìéá ìåãÜëç ÷þñá, üðùò ç Êßíá, åéóâÜëåé óôï ðáãêüóìéï óý-óôçìá åìðïñßïõ, ï áíôßêôõðïò ãßíåôáé áéóèçôüò êáé óôéò äýï ðëåõñÝò. Óå êÜ-ðïéïõò ôïìåßò, üðùò ð.÷. óôç öõóéêÞ åíÝñãåéá, ï áíôßêôõðïò ôçò Êßíáò êõñéáñ-÷åß, ðáñáóýñïíôáò áëëáãÞ ôùí áíôßóôïé÷ùí ôéìþí ãéá üëïõò.

¸íáò ôïìÝáò óôïí ïðïßï ðéóôåýù ðùò ç Êßíá èá Ý÷åé ìåãÜëï áíôßêôõðï óôïìÝëëïí, åßíáé ï ôïìÝáò ôùí åéäþí ðïëõôåëåßáò. Ç Ýíôïíç ðñïôßìçóç óôéò "äéÜ-óçìåò ìÜñêåò", üðùò óôï Hong Kong êáé óôçí Taiwan, Üñ÷éóå íá áðïêôÜ åíôõ-ðùóéáêÞ äýíáìç üóï ç ôÜîç ôùí ðëïõóßùí ôçò Êßíáò áõîÜíåôáé. ¼ðïéïò ðåñé-ðëáíçèåß óôá êáôáóôÞìáôá åéäþí ðïëõôåëåßáò ìå ôóÜíôåò êáé ñïëüãéá óôçí Åõ-ñþðç, èá äéáðéóôþóåé ðùò ó÷åäüí üëá äéáèÝôïõí ðùëçôÝò ðïõ ìéëïýí êéíÝæé-êá (mandarin).

ÕðÜñ÷ïõí óáöþò äéáöïñåôéêïß âáèìïß ðñïôßìçóçò ãéá ôá åßäç ðïëõôåëåßáòáíÜìåóá óôéò äéÜöïñåò åèíüôçôåò, áêüìá êáé üôáí êáíåßò áíáëýåé ôéò ïéêïíï-ìéêÝò ìåôáâëçôÝò üðùò ôï åéóüäçìá, ôçí çëéêßá Þ ôï ìÝãåèïò ôçò ïéêïãÝíåéáò.¸íáò óçìáíôéêüò ðáñÜãïíôáò åßíáé áõôü ðïõ ïé ïéêïíïìïëüãïé ïíïìÜæïõí ðñï-åîïöëçôéêü åðéôüêéï, ôï ïðïßï ïõóéáóôéêÜ ìåôñÜ ôçí ðñïåîïöëïýìåíç áîßá ìéáò

ÐáñáèÝôïõìå ðéï êÜôù Ýíá åîáéñåôéêÜ

åíäéáöÝñïí Üñèñï ðïõ äçìïóéåýèçêå

óôçí éóôïóåëßäá ôçò åôáéñåßáò Caing

(www.caing.com) óôéò 7/7/2010.

Ï áñèñïãñÜöïò ôïõ ê. Andy Xie üóï

êáé ç åôáéñåßá Caing åß÷áí ôçí åõãåíÞ

êáëïóýíç íá ìáò åðéôñÝøïõí íá ôï

åêäþóïõìå áõôïýóéï, ìáæß ìå ôçí

åëëçíéêÞ ôïõ áðüäïóç.

Ï ê. Andy Xie åßíáé ïéêïíïìïëüãïò

ðïõ óõíåñãÜæåôáé êáé áñèñïãñáöåß

óôçí Caing, êáèþò êáé ìÝëïò ôïõ Ä.Ó.

ôçò Rosetta Stone Advisors Limited.

Ï ê. Xie Þôáí ï Chief Economist ôçò

Morgan Stanley óôçí Áóßá áðü ôï

1997 ìÝ÷ñé ôï 2006. Åßíáé êÜôï÷ïò

Ph.D óôéò ïéêïíïìéêÝò åðéóôÞìåò

(1990) êáé Master of Science Ðïëéôé-

êïý Ìç÷áíéêïý (1987) áðü ôï M.I.T.

Óçìåéþíïõìå, üðùò ðÜíôá, ðùò ïé

áðüøåéò ôïõ êÜèå áñèñïãñÜöïõ åßíáé

áðïêëåéóôéêÜ äéêÝò ôïõ. Ìðïñåß íá

äéáöùíïýìå Þ íá óõìöùíïýìå, áëëÜ

ç áíÜëõóÞ ôïõ ãéá ôï öáéíüìåíï

Lafite óôçí Êßíá ìáò öÜíçêå ðñÜãìáôé

áé÷ìçñÞ êáé ôï âáóéêüôåñï ìáò äßíåé

ìéá Üëëç ïðôéêÞ ôùí ðñáãìÜôùí,

áðü ôçí ïðïßá êáôáëáâáßíïõìå ôï

÷Üóìá áíÜìåóá óôçí åõñùðáúêÞ,

áìåñéêáíéêÞ êáé êéíÝæéêç íïïôñïðßá.

Ìéá ðïëý åíäéáöÝñïõóá áíÜëõóç ãéá ôï "öáéíüìåíï Lafite" óôçí ÊßíáÐñùôüôõðï êåßìåíï: Andy Xie / ÅðéìÝëåéá-ìåôÜöñáóç áðü ôá ÁããëéêÜ: ¸ëëç ÊïññÝ

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Ôï óýíäñïìï ôçò Êßíáò

áíôßêôõðïò ãßíåôáé áéóèçôüò ìÝ÷ñé ôá ðÝ-ñáôá ôïõ êüóìïõ, óå üëåò ôéò áãïñÝò.

¼ôáí ìéá íÝá ïéêïíïìéêÞ äýíáìç óáíôçí Êßíá åéóâÜëåé óôçí ðáãêüóìéá áãïñÜêáé üôáí ç ðñïóöïñÜ åßíáé ðåñéïñéóìÝíç,ïé ôéìÝò ãéá ôá åßäç ðïëõôåëåßáò áíåâáß-íïõí óå ó÷Ýóç ìå ôá åßäç ðñþôçò áíÜ-ãêçò. Ôá äéáìÜíôéá, åéäéêÜ ôá äõóåýñåôá,ìåãÜëïõ ìåãÝèïõò, áíÞêïõí ó'áõôÞ ôçíêáôçãïñßá. (Áí ï óýíôñïöüò óáò ìðïñåßíá áðïêôÞóåé Ýíá, ðéÝóôå ôïí, êõñßåò ìïõ.Ðåßôå ðùò åßíáé ìéá êáëÞ åðÝíäõóç!) ¼-ôáí ï ðñïìçèåõôÞò ìðïñåß íá áõîÞóåé ôçí

Áðü ôçí Üëëç ðëåõñÜ, ïé ÊéíÝæïé ôïõ-ñßóôåò ôáîéäåýïõí ïìáäéêÜ, ìÝíïõí óå ïé-êïíïìéêÜ îåíïäï÷åßá, ôñþíå noodles ôçòóôéãìÞò êáé ýóôåñá îïäåýïõí 10.000 åõ-ñþ ãéá ìßá ôóÜíôá LV. ÐñïóùðéêÜ, äéáöù-íþ ìå ôçí åðéëïãÞ. Ïé ôóÜíôåò LV ðùëïý-íôáé ó÷åäüí áðïêëåéóôéêÜ óôïõò ÊéíÝæïõòêáé ÃéáðùíÝæïõò, ïé ïðïßïé ðéóôåýïõíðùò áðïôåëïýí åßäïò ðïëõôåëåßáò. Óôçíðñáãìáôéêüôçôá, ôï ðñïúüí áõôü Ý÷åé ó÷å-äéáóôåß ãéá íá âãÜæåé êÝñäïò áðü ôçí ðá-ñåîçãçìÝíç áíôßëçøç ôçò Áóßáò ãéá ôçäõôéêÞ ðïëõôÝëåéá.

Ç ÜðïøÞ ìïõ ãéá ôéò ôóÜíôåò LV åßíáéöõóéêÜ åêôüò èÝìáôïò. Ôï êýñéï æÞôçìáåßíáé ðùò ïé ÊéíÝæïé öåýãïõí ìå êÜôé ðïõäéáñêåß, åíþ ïé ÁìåñéêÜíïé ôá âÜæïõí üëáóôï óôïìÜ÷é. ÁõôÞ ç âáóéêÞ äéáöïñÜ êáôá-íáëùôéêÞò óõìðåñéöïñÜò äåí ðñüêåéôáéíá áëëÜîåé ìå ôçí áíáôßìçóç ôïõ Yuan. Áíôï Yuan áíÝâåé, èá ùöåëÞóåé ôéò ðùëÞ-óåéò ôçò LV, ü÷é üìùò ôéò åîáãùãÝò ôùíÇ.Ð.Á.

Ôá åßäç ðïëõôåëåßáò üðùò ôóÜíôåò,ñïëüãéá, åßíáé êáôáíáëùôéêÜ åßäç. ¼ìùòäéáñêïýí ãéá ðïëý êáéñü, äçëáäÞ âñßóêï-íôáé ðåñßðïõ óôï ìÝóï áíÜìåóá óôá åßäçêáôáíÜëùóçò êáé óôá åßäç åðÝíäõóçò. Ùòåê ôïýôïõ, ìéá ÷þñá ìå ÷áìçëü åîïöëçôé-êü åðéôüêéï Þ åðéôüêéï, èá Ýðñåðå íá Ý÷åéìåãáëýôåñç ðñïôßìçóç óôá åßäç ðïëõôå-ëåßáò. ÁõôÞ ç äýíáìç åßíáé ðñáãìáôéêÜðïëý éó÷õñÞ åéäéêÜ óôçí ðåñßðôùóç ìéáòöôù÷Þò ÷þñáò ðïõ ïé êÜôïéêïß ôçò Ý÷ïõíÝìöõôá Ýíôïíç ðñïôßìçóç óôá åßäç ðïëõ-ôåëåßáò êáé ðïõ ãßíåôáé ðëïýóéá. Êé üôáíáõôÞ ç ÷þñá Ý÷åé ôï ìÝãåèïò ôçò Êßíáò, ï

ìåëëïíôéêÞò êáôáíÜëùóçò áãáèþí. Ôáìáêñïðñüèåóìá åðéôüêéá õðïôßèåôáé ðùòìåôñïýí áõôüí ôïí ðáñÜãïíôá. ¼ìùò, óåìéá ðáãêüóìéá áãïñÜ êåöáëáßïõ, ôï ÷ñÞ-ìá êÜíåé ôï ãýñï ôïõ êüóìïõ ãéá íá êåñ-äßóåé áðü ôéò äéáöïñÝò ôùí åðéôïêßùí. Å-ðéðñïóèÝôùò, ç ÊåíôñéêÞ ÔñÜðåæá áõîÜ-íåé ôçí ðñïóöïñÜ ÷ñÞìáôïò ãéá íá ôïíþ-óåé ôçí ïéêïíïìßá. Ôá åðéôüêéá ðëÝïí äåíáíôéðñïóùðåýïõí ôéò äéáöïñÝò óôéò áîß-åò óôá åßäç ìåëëïíôéêÞò êáôáíÜëùóçò.

Ôï ðñïåîïöëçôéêü åðéôüêéï ìðïñåßìüíï êáôÜ Ýíá ìÝñïò íá åîçãÞóåé ôçí ðá-ãêüóìéá áíéóïññïðßá. Ï ÐñüåäñïòObama ðéÝæåé ôçí Êßíá íá áíáôéìÞóåé ôïíüìéóìÜ ôçò, þóôå íá ìåéùèåß ôï åìðïñé-êü Ýëëåéììá ôùí Ç.Ð.Á. - Êßíáò. ¼ìùò ðé-óôåýù ðùò áõôÞ ç êßíçóç äå èá åßíáé á-ðïôåëåóìáôéêÞ. ×ñåéÜæåôáé íá ñßîåé êáíåßòìéá ìüíï ìáôéÜ óôéò äéáöïñÝò ôçò óõìðå-ñéöïñÜò êáôáíÜëùóçò ìåôáîý Áìåñéêá-íþí êáé ÊéíÝæùí óôï Ðáñßóé. Ïé ÁìåñéêÜ-íïé óôáìÜôçóáí áðüôïìá ôá ôáîßäéá ôïõòóôï Ðáñßóé ôï 2008 êáé 2009. ¼ìùò, ôþ-ñá åðÝóôñåøáí óôï Ðáñßóé, ó÷åäüí ìå"åêäéêçôéêÞ ìáíßá". ÊÜðïéïé åßðáí ðùò ïéÁìåñéêÜíïé üñìçóáí îáíÜ ãéá íá êåñäß-óïõí áðü ôçí õðïôßìçóç ôïõ åõñþ.

Ôï ðñüâëçìá åßíáé ðùò ïé ÁìåñéêÜíïéåßíáé õðåñ÷ñåùìÝíïé. Ãéáôß èá Ýðñåðå íáôáîéäÝøïõí óôç Ãáëëßá, áêüìá êé áí ïéêï-íïìéêÜ áõôÞ Ýãéíå ðéï ðñïóéôÞ; Èá Ýðñå-ðå íá êÜíïõí ïéêïíïìßá ãéá íá îå÷ñåþ-óïõí ôá ÷ñÝç ôïõò. ¼ìùò ïé ÁìåñéêÜíïéóôï Ðáñßóé ðåñíÜíå êáëÜ. ÌÝíïõí óå ù-ñáßá îåíïäï÷åßá, ðßíïõí êáëü êñáóß êáéôñþíå óå áêñéâÜ ãáëëéêÜ åóôéáôüñéá.

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measures how much one wants to be paid fordeferring consumption. Long-term interest ratesare supposed to measure this factor. But, with aglobal capital market, money flows around theworld to arbitrage interest rate differences. In addi-tion to this, central banks inflate the supply ofmoney to stimulate the economy. Interest rates nolonger reflect the differences in consumptionpatience.

The discount rate can partly explain the globalimbalance. President Obama has been puttingpressure on China to appreciate its currency, in anaim to decrease the U.S.'s trade deficit with China.But I seriously doubt that this will be effective. Youneed only to glance at the differences in spendingbehavior between Americans and Chinese in Paris.Apart from Europeans, these two nationalitiesprobably dominate the tourism market in Paris.Americans cut their travel in 2008 and '09. But

China joins the global trading system, the impact isfelt both ways. In some areas, like naturalresources, for example, China's impact dominates,hence, the change of relative prices for everybody.

One area that I believe China will have a greatimpact on in the future is the luxury market. Thestrong preference for "famous brands," much likein Hong Kong and Taiwan, has now begun to exerta surprising strength as the size of wealthy con-sumers grow in China. When one treks throughluxury shops selling watches and bags in Europe,almost all have Mandarin-speaking salespersons.

There are clearly different degrees of prefer-ences for luxuries among different nationalities,even when one controls for all economic variableslike income, age or family size. One important fac-tor is what economists call the discount rate. It

L afite's second label sold for about 200 Britishpounds per case until rising ten-fold over the

past five years, epitomizing the pleasure and painfrom China's cult of luxury

Ten years ago I wrote that, whenever Chinabuys, the price will go up and, whenever Chinasells, the price will go down. I recently modified thesecond half of that to, whenever China sells, theprice will go up too, because I expect China's fac-tory wages to quadruple over the next decade.

The slogan is a play on China's size. In eco-nomics, most observations are based on smallperturbations to a complex system. For example,when a small country joins the international tradingsystem, economists estimate the impact on thecountry's economy based on price convergencewith international prices. When a large country like

The Puzzle of Carruades de Lafite

ðáñáãùãÞ áëëÜ èÝëåé ðáñïëáõôÜ íá êá-èïñßóåé ôçí ôéìÞ, ôüôå ç ðñïóöïñÜ áõîÜ-íåôáé ôüóï üóï ÷ñåéÜæåôáé ãéá íá åîõðç-ñåôÞóåé ôç æÞôçóç ôçò Êßíáò. Ôá áõôïêß-íçôá Mercedes-Benz êáé ïé ôóÜíôåò LouisVuitton áíÞêïõí ó'áõôÞí ôçí êáôçãïñßá.

Ðñéí áðü äýï ÷ñüíéá, óå Üëëï Üñèñïìïõ, ìéëïýóá ãéá ôïí áíôßêôõðï ôçò Êßíáòóôçí ïéêïíïìßá ôùí åéäþí ðïëõôåëåßáò.Ôþñá, èÝëù íá áíáðôýîù ôïí áíôßêôõðïôçò Êßíáò óôá ãáëëéêÜ êñáóéÜ ðïëõôåëåß-áò. Ðïëý ëßãá åßíáé ôá ðñïúüíôá ðïëõôå-ëåßáò ðïõ Ýðéáóáí êïñõöáßåò åðåíäõôé-

êÝò åðéäüóåéò áðü ôá ìÝóá ôïõ 2008. Ï÷ñõóüò åßíáé ôï Ýíá. Ôï ãáëëéêü êñáóßðïëõôåëåßáò åßíáé ôï Üëëï. O ôïìÝáò ôùíéäéïêôçóéþí (óðßôéá) óôçí Êßíá Ýöôáóå óååðßðåäï ñåêüñ ôïí Ïêôþâñéï 2009. Äåíìðïñþ íá èõìçèþ Üëëá. Áðü ôá ôñßá, ôáãáëëéêÜ êñáóéÜ ðïëõôåëåßáò öáßíåôáéðùò åßíáé ïé ðñùôáèëçôÝò. Ï åðåíäõôé-êüò äåßêôçò ôùí ãáëëéêþí êñáóéþí ðïëõ-ôåëåßáò (Liv-100 index) åßíáé ëßãï ðÜíùáðü ôï 37% óå ó÷Ýóç ìå ôçí ðåñóéíÞ÷ñïíéÜ êáé 24% åðÜíù ôç öåôéíÞ ÷ñïíéÜùò óÞìåñá. Êáé ç áíïäéêÞ ðïñåßá ðáñá-

ìÝíåé Ýíôïíç.Äåí õðÜñ÷åé áìöéâïëßá ðùò ç äýíáìç

ðßóù áðü ôçí ôñÝ÷ïõóá áíïäéêÞ ðïñåßáâñßóêïíôáé ïé ÊéíÝæïé áãïñáóôÝò êáé ü÷é ïé÷ñçìáôéóôÝò ôçò Wall Street. Ïé ðáñáãù-ãïß ôïõ Bordeaux ìéëïýí üëïé ãéá ôçí Êßíá.Ïé ÊéíÝæïé áãïñáóôÝò öáßíåôáé ðùò êõ-ñéÜñ÷çóáí óôçí áãïñÜ ôùí En Primeursãéá ôç óïäåéÜ ôïõ 2009 ðïõ èá åßíáé äéá-èÝóéìç óå Ýíá ÷ñüíï. Óôá 1ers CrusClasses, ïé áãïñáóôÝò áðü ôçí åíäï÷þñáôçò Êßíáò âãÜæïõí ïëïÝíá êáé ðåñéóóüôå-ñï åêôüò ìÜ÷çò ôïõò ÃéáðùíÝæïõò, ôïõòÔáúâáíÝæïõò êáé ôïõò áãïñáóôÝò áðü ôïHong Kong.

Ôï ãáëëéêü êñáóß äéáöÝñåé áðü ôçíôóÜíôá LV. Áöáéñåßôáé ï öåëëüò, ðÜåé ôïðñïúüí. ÖõóéêÜ, ìðïñåß êÜðïéïò íá óôï-êÜñåé ãéá íá åðåíäýóåé. ¼ìùò ç äéáäéêá-óßá åßíáé ðïëýðëïêç êáé äáðáíçñÞ. Óå ü,ôéáöïñÜ ôç æÞôçóç áðü ôçí Êßíá, ç áãïñÜôùí áãáèþí ãéá ìáêñïðñüèåóìç åðÝíäõ-óç åßíáé áêüìá óå äåýôåñï åðßðåäï. Áõôüðïõ åíäéáöÝñåé ðåñéóóüôåñï óôçí áãïñÜôïõ êñáóéïý åßíáé, ãéá ôçí þñá, ç êáôáíÜ-ëùóÞ ôïõ.

Ôï íá ðßíåé êáíåßò áêñéâü êñáóß åßíáéìÜëëïí ç åðéôïìÞ ôçò êáôáíÜëùóçò.Ìðïñåßò, ìéá ìüíï ãïõëéÜ íá îïäÝøåéòðïëëÜ ëåöôÜ -êáé ðïëý ãñÞãïñá. Áõôü ü-ìùò áíôéôßèåôáé ìå ôç ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÞ êá-ôáíáëùôéêÞ óõìðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ ÊéíÝæïõ ðïõèÝëåé íá óõóóùñåýåé áãáèÜ. Ãéáôß ëïéðüíáõôÞ ç æÞôçóç áðü ôçí Êßíá;

¸íáò óçìáíôéêüò ðáñÜãïíôáò öáßíå-ôáé ðùò åßíáé ç áíÜãêç íá âåëôéþóïõí ôéòåðé÷åéñçìáôéêÝò ôïõò ó÷Ýóåéò. ¼ðùò

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now they are back in Paris with a vengeance.Some have said Americans rushed over to benefitfrom the euro devaluation, rushing to Paris for abargain.

The problem is that Americans are deep in debt.Why should they bother if visiting France hasbecome a bit cheaper? They should be savingmoney to pay off their debt. But, Americans are inParis for a good time again. They stay at nicehotels, drink good wine, and eat expensive Frenchfood.

On the other hand, Chinese tourists go ingroups, stay in cheap hotels, eat instant noodlesand then spend ten thousand euros on an LV bag.I disagree with the choice. LV bags are sold almostexclusively to the Chinese and Japanese, believingit is a prestigious luxury brand. In fact, the producthas been designed to profit from Asia's misunder-standing of western luxury.

My view on LV bags is beside the point. Themain point is that Chinese leave with somethingthat will last, while Americans put everything in thestomach. This fundamental difference in behaviorwon't change with a yuan revaluation. If the yuangoes up, it will benefit LV sales, not Americanexports.

Luxuries like bags and watches are consump-tion goods. But they last for a long time, roughly atthe half way point between consumption andinvestment goods. Hence, a country with a lowerdiscount rate or interest rate should have a higherpreference for luxury goods. This force is extreme-ly potent when a poor country becomes rich andits inherent preference for luxuries is strong. Whenthis country is as big as China, its impact is felt inevery corner of the market.

When a new economic force like China comesinto the global market and when supply is con-

strained, prices for luxury goods will rise relative toother goods like necessities. Diamonds, especiallythe hard-to-find big ones, are in this category. (Ifyour guy can afford one, put the pressure on,ladies. Say it's a good investment!) When the sup-plier can increase production but wants to fix theprice, the supply goes up just enough to accom-modate China's demand. Mercedes-Benz cars andLV bags fall into this category.

Two years ago in another column, I discussedChina's impact on the luxury economy. Here I wantto discuss China's impact on luxury French wines.Not many asset classes have made new highsabove mid-2008 levels. Gold is one. French finewine is another. The residential property in Chinamade a new high in October 2009. I can't recallanything else. Among the three, French fine winesseem to have performed best. The French fine wineindex (Liv-100 index) is roughly up by 37 percent

Lafite 2000 Ý÷åé áíáôéìçèåß ðåñßðïõ êáôÜ550% óå ëßñåò Áããëßáò áðü ôï 2005, åíþç áíôßóôïé÷ç áíáôßìçóç ôùí ðáñåìöåñþíðïéïôéêÜ êñáóéþí åßíáé ðåñßðïõ 180%. Ôïìüíï óõãêñßóéìï êñáóß ìå ôï Lafite åßíáéôï Latour. Ç ôéìÞ ôïõ ôåëåõôáßïõ, óôçí ß-äéá óïäåéÜ, áíÝâçêå êáôÜ ðñïóÝããéóç óôáåðßðåäá ôçò óõíïëéêÞò áãïñÜò. Ïé äéáöï-ñÝò áíÜìåóá óôéò ôéìÝò ôïõ Lafite êáé ôùíõðïëïßðùí ðñùôïêëáóÜôùí ôïõ Bordeauxóå Üëëåò óïäåéÝò äåí åßíáé ôï ßäéï åíôõ-ðùóéáêÝò üðùò óôç óïäåéÜ ôïõ 2000, áë-ëÜ ðÜíôùò ðáñáìÝíïõí áîéïóçìåßùôåò.ÊÜôé éäéáßôåñï ëïéðüí Ý÷åé óõìâåß óôïLafite ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá. Áõôü ôï êÜôéëÝãåôáé Êßíá.

Ç Êßíá æåé ôï öáéíüìåíï Lafite ôá ôå-ëåõôáßá 5 ÷ñüíéá. Ôï êñáóß áõôü Ý÷åé åîå-ëé÷èåß ó÷åäüí óôï åðßóçìï êñáóß ôùí Êé-íÝæùí ãéá ôéò åðáããåëìáôéêÝò ôïõò óõíá-íáóôñïöÝò. ¸÷ïõí ãßíåé ðïëëÝò ðñïóðÜ-èåéåò ãéá íá åîçãçèåß áõôü ôï öáéíüìåíï.Ôï ðéï äçìïöéëÝò óåíÜñéï ëÝåé ðùò ç êé-íÝæéêç ìåôÜöñáóÞ ôïõ åßíáé åõêïëïðñü-öåñôç êáé áêïýãåôáé ùñáßá. Äåí Ý÷ù ðåé-óèåß ðùò áõôÞ åßíáé ç êáëýôåñç åîÞãçóç.Ç êáôáíÜëùóç áëêïïëïý÷ùí óôá ðëáßóéáôùí åðé÷åéñçóéáêþí ó÷Ýóåùí óôçí Êßíáäåí áðïôåëåß ìÝñïò ìéáò "óïöéóôéêÝ åíá-ó÷üëçóçò", åíüò áêñéâïý ÷üìðé. Ç ðñï-óöïñÜ áêñéâïý êñáóéïý ãßíåôáé ìüíï êáéìüíï åðåéäÞ êïóôßæåé ðïëëÜ, êáé ïðùóäÞ-ðïôå ï óôü÷ïò äåí åßíáé ç áðüëáõóÞ ôïõ.×ñçóéìïðïéåßôáé ãéá ëüãïõò åíôõðùóéá-óìïý. Ç õøçëÞ ôïõ ôéìÞ ëïéðüí åßíáé áðüìüíç ôçò áéôßá. Ôï ãåãïíüò ðùò ôï Lafiteáêïýãåôáé êáëÜ óôá êéíÝæéêá ôïõ äßíåé á-

ëåóìáôéêÜ óôï íá ÷áëáñþíïõí ôïí êüóìïêáé íá ðñïùèïýí åõêïëüôåñá ôéò åìðïñé-êÝò ó÷Ýóåéò. ¼ìùò, ïé åðéâëáâåßò ãéá ôçíõãåßá åðéðôþóåéò ôïõò Ý÷ïõí åëáôôþóåéôï ñõèìü êáôáíÜëùóçò. ÂÝâáéá, üôáí ôïêñáóß áðü ìüíï ôïõ äåí öÝñåé ôï åðéèõ-ìçôü áðïôÝëåóìá, ôüôå "åðéóôñáôåýïíôáé"ôá óêëçñÜ áëêïïëïý÷á. Ãéá ôï ëüãï áõôü,ðáñüëï ðïõ ç êáôáíÜëùóç ôùí óêëçñþíáëêïïëïý÷ùí ðïôþí Ý÷åé ìåéùèåß, ç æÞôç-óÞ ôïõò åßíáé áêüìá ðïëý óçìáíôéêÞ.

Ï ñüëïò ôçò êáôáíÜëùóçò áëêïïëïý-÷ùí óôïí ôïìÝá ôùí åðáããåëìáôéêþí ó÷Ý-óåùí Ý÷åé äçìéïõñãÞóåé Ýíá ìïíáäéêü êé-íÝæéêï öáéíüìåíï -ôç ìáæéêÞ æÞôçóç ãéáöéÜëåò Chateau Lafite. Ôï Lafite óõãêáôá-ëÝãåôáé áíÜìåóá óôá ðÝíôå 1ers CrusClasses ôïõ Bordeaux. Ç Ãáëëßá äçìéïýñ-ãçóå ìéá êáôÜôáîç ãéá ôá êñáóéÜ ôïõBordeaux ôï 1855 ãéá ôçí Ðáãêüóìéá ¸ê-èåóç. Åêåßíç ôçí åðï÷Þ, ôÝóóåñáChateaux, ôï Lafite, ôï Latour, ôï Haut-Brion êáé ôï Margaux áíáãíùñßóôçêáí óáí1ers Crus Classes. Ôï 1975 ðñïóôÝèçêåó'áõôÜ êáé ôï Mouton. Ðýñãïé óå êÜðïéåòÜëëåò ðåñéï÷Ýò ôïõ Bordeaux, üðùò ôïPomerol êáé ôï St. Emilion, äåí óõììåôåß-÷áí óôçí êáôÜôáîç áõôÞ. ¸÷ïõí üìùò ôïäéêü ôïõò óýóôçìá êáôÜôáîçò (Óôì. Ôï St.Emilion ìüíï). ÐÜíôùò, ç Ýíäåéîç 1er CruClasse ðïõëÜåé êáëÜ, åéäéêÜ óå ìéá íÝá á-ãïñÜ üðùò ç Êßíá.

ÁíÜìåóá óôá ðñùôïêëáóÜôá, ôï LafiteäéáãñÜöåé ôç äéêÞ ôïõ îå÷ùñéóôÞ ðïñåßá,áöïý ïé ðùëÞóåéò ôïõ áõîÜíïíôáé ðïëýðåñéóóüôåñï áð'üëùí ôùí õðïëïßðùíðñùôïêëáóÜôùí êñáóéþí ìáæß. Ð.÷. ôï

óôçí Éáðùíßá êáôÜ ôç äåêáåôßá '80, ôï ðï-ôü åßíáé áðáñáßôçôï óõóôáôéêü óôçí áíÜ-ðôõîç ôùí åðáããåëìáôéêþí ó÷Ýóåùí. ÃéáêÜðïéï ëüãï, áõôü ôï öáéíüìåíï óõíáíôÜ-ôáé óå êÜèå ÷þñá ðïõ âñßóêåôáé óôç öÜóçôçò ïéêïíïìéêÞò áíÜðôõîçò. Ëßãï áëêïüëðñïöáíþò åßíáé áðáñáßôçôï ãéá åðéôõ÷ÞïéêïíïìéêÞ áíÜðôõîç. ¼ôáí êÜðïéïò âÜæåéðïëý ÷ñÞìá óå ìéá õðáíÜðôõêôç ïéêïíïìß-á, ÷ñåéÜæåôáé èÜññïò. ¼ôáí ôï ßäéï ãßíåôáéáðü ðïëëïýò, ôüôå ç ðñïöçôåßá áõôü-åê-ðëçñïýôáé.

Ç áíÜãêç ôïõ "åéäéêïý ÷åéñéóìïý" ôùíáíþôåñùí äéïéêçôéêþí óôåëå÷þí ôïõ äç-ìïóßïõ óôéò åðé÷åéñçìáôéêÝò ó÷Ýóåéòìðïñåß íá ðáßæåé ðïëý óçìáíôéêüôåñï ñü-ëï óôçí áéôßá ãéá ôç ìåãÜëç æÞôçóç åêëå-êôþí êñáóéþí ôçò Êßíáò. Óôï áíáðôõîéáêüåðåíäõôéêü ìïíôÝëï ôçò áíáôïëéêÞò Áóß-áò, ðïõ âáóßæåôáé óôéò åîáãùãÝò, óõíÞ-èùò ôï êñÜôïò ðáßæåé êýñéï ñüëï. Óôçí Êß-íá, áêüìá ðåñéóóüôåñï, äéüôé ïé ðåñéóóü-ôåñåò åôáéñåßåò åßíáé êñáôéêÝò êáé ïé å-ìðïñéêÝò óõìöùíßåò åîáñôþíôáé áðü ôçóõíáßíåóç äéáöüñùí áíþôåñùí äçìïóßùíõðáëëÞëùí. ¼óïé éäéþôåò åðé÷åéñçìáôßåòóõíáíáóôñÝöïíôáé ìå ôïõò åí ëüãù êñá-ôéêïýò õðáëëÞëïõò êáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôùíåðáããåëìáôéêþí ôïõò åðáöþí, ðñïöáíþòðëçñþíïõí ãéá ôï êáëýôåñï.

Ï ðïëéôéóìüò ôçò êáôáíÜëùóçò óêëç-ñþí áëêïïëïý÷ùí óôá ðëáßóéá ôùí åðáã-ãåëìáôéêþí õðï÷ñåþóåùí ôùí åðé÷åéñç-ìáôéþí Ý÷åé áëëÜîåé óôçí Êßíá. ¼ðùò êéáëëïý, ç êáôáíÜëùóç ôùí óêëçñþí áëêï-ïëïý÷ùí Ý÷åé ìåéùèåß, ãéá ëüãïõò õãåßáò.ÖõóéêÜ, ôá áëêïïëïý÷á ðïôÜ åßíáé áðïôå-

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role is even more influential because of govern-ment ownership of most assets and deal-makingthat is often dependent on individual approval.When befriending government officials, privatebusinessmen obviously pay for the best.

The business drinking culture has been chang-ing in China. Like elsewhere, liquor consumptionhas been declining out of health concerns.Obviously, liquor is more effective at looseningpeople up and advancing business relationships.But, its deleterious effects on health have damp-ened consumption. When wine is not effective, theliquor is still needed. That is why China's liquorconsumption is declining but still at a high level.

The role of alcohol consumption in entertainingfor business has produced a unique Chinese phe-nomenon - the massive demand for Chateau Lafitewine. Lafite is one of the five first growth wines inBordeaux. France classified Bordeaux wines as

and quickly. It seems inconsistent with the domi-nant Chinese preference for accumulation. Why isthere so much demand from China?

An important factor seems to be the need tolubricate business relationships. Like Japan in the1980s, drinking is an all-important component indeveloping business relationships. For some rea-son, this phenomenon is replicated during the eco-nomic development phase in places across theworld. A little intoxication may be necessary forsuccessful economic development. When onesinks a lot of money into an underdeveloped econ-omy, it needs courage. When many do the same,it then becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy.

Lubricating relationships with government offi-cials may play a more important role in China'sfine wine demand. In the East Asian investmentand export-led development model, the govern-ment usually plays an important role. In China, this

from one year ago and 24 percent this year to date.Its upward momentum remains strong.

There is little doubt that the force behind thecurrent upward momentum is Chinese buyers, notWall Street traders. Bordeaux wine producers areall talking about China. Chinese buyers seem todominate the en premeur (??) for 2009 vintagethat will be available in another year. In the firstgrowth wines, Mainland Chinese buyers areincreasingly pricing out the Japanese, Taiwaneseand Hong Kong people.

French wine is different from an LV bag. Whenthe cork is popped, it's gone. Of course, you canstore it as investment. But the process is compli-cated and costly. In terms of Chinese demand,investment is still a secondary consideration.Drinking is now a bigger factor.

Drinking expensive wine is probably the ultimateconsumption. One could swallow a lot of money -

ðëÜ Ýíá áìåëçôÝï ðñïâÜäéóìá. ÌÞðùò ôï öáéíüìåíï Lafite åßíáé ìéá

öïýóêá; ¼ðùò ëÝåé ï Greenspan (Óôì. OAlan Greenspan åßíáé ãíùóôüò Áìåñéêá-íüò ïéêïíïìïëüãïò) êáíåßò äåí ìðïñåß íáîÝñåé ìÝ÷ñé íá óêÜóåé ç öïýóêá! Åßíáé ðé-èáíü ïé ÊéíÝæïé êáôáíáëùôÝò íá åêôéìïýíóôï Lafite êÜôé ðáñáðÜíù áðü ôïõò õðü-ëïéðïõò. Ùò åê ôïýôïõ, üóï ïé ÊéíÝæïé ãß-íïíôáé ðëïõóéüôåñïé êáé îïäåýïõí ðåñéó-óüôåñï óå êñáóéÜ, ôï Lafite èá ùöåëåßôáéáðü áõôÞ ôçí ðçãÞ æÞôçóçò ðåñéóóüôåñïáðü Üëëïõò. ¸ôóé, ôï öáéíüìåíï Lafite åß-íáé óõíäåäåìÝíï ìå ôçí ôéìÞ ôïõ Üñá äåíåßíáé öïýóêá.

¸íá åíáëëáêôéêü óåíÜñéï èá Þôáíðùò êáé ôá Üëëá ðñùôïêëáóÜôá ôïõBordeaux èá Ý÷ïõí, ìå ôïí êáéñü, ôçí ôý-÷ç ôïõ Lafite. Ç æÞôçóç ôùí ÊéíÝæùí ãéáLafite (Óôì. êáé ìüíï) ïöåßëåôáé óôçí Ýë-ëåéøç ïéíéêÞò ðáéäåßáò êáé ãíþóçò. ¼óïèá áó÷ïëïýíôáé êáé èá ìáèáßíïõí ðåñéó-óüôåñï ãéá ôï êñáóß, ôüóï ç æÞôçóç ãéá ôáÜëëá ðñùôïêëáóÜôá èá áõîÜíåôáé. Áõôüèá ìðïñïýóå íá ðáñáóýñåé ôï åíäéáöÝ-ñïí óôáäéáêÜ êáé óôá Üëëá åêëåêôÜ êñá-óéÜ.

Ôï äåýôåñï óåíÜñéï åßíáé ðéèáíü. Çáßóèçóç Lafite Ý÷åé íá êÜíåé ìå ôï ãáëëé-êü óýóôçìá ãéá ôçí ïéíïðáñáãùãÞ. Ïé íü-ìïé áðïôñÝðïõí ôïõò ìåãÜëïõò ðýñãïõòôïõ Bordeaux íá áõîÞóïõí ôçí ðáñáãùãÞôïõò. Ï ðéï óçìáíôéêüò ðåñéïñéóìüò åßíáéç áðáãüñåõóç Üñäåõóçò. Ïé ðýñãïé ðñÝ-ðåé íá êñáôïýí ìüíï ôá ìéóÜ ôóáìðéÜ þ-óôå ôá õðüëïéðá ðïõ èá ìåßíïõí íá Ý÷ïõíõøçëüôåñç ðïéüôçôá. Ïé ïéíïðáñáãùãïß

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first growth and unclassified them in 1855 for itsWorld Expo. At the time, four chateaus: Lafite,Latour, Haut Brion and Margaux were classified asfirst growth. In 1975 Mouton also qualified.Chateaus in some of Bordeaux's areas likePomerol and St. Emilion didn't participate in theclassification. They have started their own classifi-cation system. Some of their wines are moreexpensive than the five first growth wines.Nevertheless, the first growth label travels well,especially to a new market like China.

Among the first growth wines, Lafite has takena life of its own, rising much quicker than the finewine market as a whole and other first growthwines in particular. For example, Lafite of 2000vintage has appreciated by about 550 percent inpound sterling since 2005, compared to 180 per-cent for the market as a whole. The most compa-rable wine to Lafite is Latour. The latter's price of

the same vintage has risen roughly in line with theoverall market. The price differentials betweenLafite and other first growth wines from other vin-tages are not as dramatic as for the 2000 one butare still large. Something special has happened toLafite in the past few years. That something isChina.

China has been experiencing a Lafite phenome-non in the past five years. It has become almostthe official Chinese wine for business entertain-ment. There have been many attempts to explainthis. The most popular one is that the Chinesetranslation is easy to say and sounds nice. I am notsure this is the best explanation. Drinking for busi-ness entertainment in China isn't the most sophis-ticated pastime. Providing expensive wine is reallyfor its own sake, because it is simply the highprice, and not the taste, that is meant to impress.When a wine becomes expensive, it can take on

momentum of its own. The fact that Lafite soundsnice in Chinese gives it a negligible advantage.

Is the Lafite Phenomenon a bubble? AsGreenspan says, one can never be sure until itbursts. It is possible that Chinese drinkers appreci-ate something in Lafite that other drinkers neverdid. Hence, as the Chinese become richer andspend more on wines, Lafite benefits from thissource of demand more than others. So the Lafitephenomenon is price revaluation, not bubble.

An alternative scenario could be that other firstgrowth wines would get the Lafite treatment over-time. The Chinese demand for Lafite is due to lackof wine knowledge. As Chinese drinkers becomemore sophisticated, the demand for other firstgrowth wines will increase. This could be a risingtide that will gradually carry over to other finewines.

The second scenario is possible. The Lafite

ôéìÞ ïöåßëåôáé óå ìéá ëÜèïò áíôßëçøç.¼óï ç ôéìÞ ôïõ Lafite áðïêôÜ äéáóôÜ-

óåéò èçóáõñïý, ç áíáæÞôçóç ãéá Ýíá õðï-êáôÜóôáôï åßíáé ìéá ðñþôç áíôßäñáóç ôçòáãïñÜò. Óôçí Êßíá, ôï õðïêáôÜóôáôï åßíáéôï Little Lafite. Ç åðéëïãÞ åßíáé óáöþò Ü-ôõ÷ç. Áí ç õðïêáôÜóôáóç ôïõ Lafite ãßíï-íôáí ìå Latour, Haut-Brion Þ Margaux, èáÞôáí ëïãéêü. Ç ðïéüôçôÜ ôïõò åßíáé ðá-ñåìöåñÞò. ¼ôáí ç ôéìÞ ôïõ Lafite åßíáé ôü-óï ðéï áêñéâÞ áðü üëùí ôùí Üëëùí, ïéðýñãïé áõôïß èá Ýðñåðå íá åßíáé ïé áìÝ-óùò åðüìåíåò åðéëïãÝò. ¼ìùò, ãéá ôïõòÊéíÝæïõò, ôï ìéêñü Lafite áêïýãåôáé êáé õ-

ðéêÞ ôïõò åõ÷áñßóôçóç. ¸ôóé, ïé ôéìÝòôïõò èá ãßíïõí ðéï åõáßóèçôåò óôéò áëëá-ãÝò ôçò áãïñÜò. Ç Éáðùíßá Þäç Ý÷åé äéá-íýóåé áõôüí ôïí êýêëï.

Êáé åíþ äåí åßìáé óßãïõñïò ðùò ôïöáéíüìåíï Lafite åßíáé öïýóêá, åßìáé ó÷å-äüí âÝâáéïò ðùò ç äåýôåñç åôéêÝôá ôïõ,ôï Carruades de Lafite Þ Little Lafite óôá êé-íÝæéêá, åßíáé. Ðñïûðüèåóç ãéá ôçí ðáñá-ãùãÞ ôùí ðñùôïêëáóÜôùí êñáóéþí åßíáéôá êëÞìáôá íá åßíáé êáôÜ ìÝóï üñï 30-40åôþí. ÁìðÝëéá Üíù ôùí 80 åôþí ðñÝðåéíá áíôéêáèßóôáíôáé. Ùò åê ôïýôïõ, Ýíáòðýñãïò ðÜíôá áíôéêáèéóôÜ ôá ðïëý ðá-ëáéÜ êëÞìáôá ìå íÝá. ¼ìùò ç ðñþôç ýëçáðü áõôÜ ôá íåáñÜ êëÞìáôá äåí ìðïñåß íáðáñÜãåé ðïéïôéêü êñáóß. ÌåãÜëïé ðýñãïéüðùò ôï Lafite êáé ôï Latour ÷ñçóéìï-ðïéïýí ôá óôáöýëéá áðü ôá íåáñÜ ôïõòêëÞìáôá ãéá íá ðáñÜãïõí ôéò äåýôåñåò å-ôéêÝôåò ôïõò ðïõ ôïõò âïçèïýí íá áðïñ-ñïöÞóïõí êÜðïéá êüóôç. ÁõôÝò ïé äåýôå-ñåò åôéêÝôåò åßíáé óõíÞèùò áñêåôÜ öèç-íÝò. ÓõíÞèùò åßíáé ðéï öèçíÝò áðü ôá2emes Crus Classes.

Áò ðÜñïõìå ãéá ðáñÜäåéãìá ôç äåý-ôåñç åôéêÝôá ôïõ Lafite, ôï Carruades deLafite, ðïõ ç ôéìÞ ôïõ Þôáí ðåñßðïõ óôéò200 ëßñåò Áããëßáò ôï êéâþôéï ìÝ÷ñé êáéðñéí áðü 5 ÷ñüíéá. Áðü ôï 2005, ç ôéìÞôùí Carruades Ý÷åé áõîçèåß ðåñßðïõ 10öïñÝò. Ç ôéìÞ ôïõ êÜðïéåò öïñÝò îåðåñ-íÜ ôéò ôéìÝò ôùí Üëëùí ðñùôïêëáóÜôùí(åêôüò Lafite) êáé åßíáé óõíÞèùò ðéï áêñé-âü áðü ðïëý êáëÜ 2emes Crus Classes.Äå ëÝù ðùò ôï "Ìéêñü Lafite" (Little Lafite)åßíáé êáêü êñáóß. Äåí åßíáé üìùò êáé ôï"ìåãÜëï" êñáóß. Ç áðßóôåõôç õøçëÞ ôïõ

óôçí Áõóôñáëßá êáé ôéò ÇÐÁ ÷ñçóéìï-ðïéïýí Üñäåõóç êáé ìðïñïýí íá ðáñÜ-ãïõí 4 öïñÝò ðåñéóóüôåñï êñáóß áðü ôïíðáñáãùãü ôïõ Bordeaux áðü ôçí ßäéá Ý-êôáóç áìðåëþíá. Ïé ðáñáãùãïß ôïõBordeaux áíáãêáóôéêÜ ðáñÜãïõí ìå âÜóçôçí ðïéüôçôá êáé ôéò õøçëÝò ôéìÝò êáé ü÷éìå âÜóç ôçí ðïóüôçôá. ¸ôóé, üôáí ìéá íÝ-á ðçãÞ æÞôçóçò âãáßíåé óôï ðñïóêÞíéï, ïéôéìÝò áíåâáßíïõí.

ÐáñÜëëçëá, ç ôéìÞ ôïõ Lafite åßíáé ôü-óï õøçëÞ ðïõ ïäÞãçóå óå ìéá ìåãÜëç âéï-ìç÷áíßá ðëáóôþí Lafite. ÊÜðïéïé áíáëõ-ôÝò åêôéìïýí ðùò ôï 70% ôùí Lafite ðïõêõêëïöïñïýí óôçí Êßíá åßíáé ðëáóôÜ. Ï ß-äéïò Ý÷ù ðÝóåé èýìá óå êÜðïéåò ðåñéóôÜ-óåéò. Ïé Üíèñùðïé ðïõ ìïõ óÝñâéñáí ôïðëáóôü Lafite äåí ôï ãíþñéæáí, ãéáôß, ïé ôé-ìÝò ôïõò öáßíïíôáí áõèåíôéêÝò. Êáé ôáðëáóôÜ Þôáí ìÜëëïí áîéïðñåðïýò ðïéüôç-ôáò, ßóùò íá Þôáí êÜðïéï äåõôåñïêëáóÜ-ôï ðïõ åß÷å ìðåé óå öéÜëç Lafite. ÐÜíôùòäåí Þôáí áõèåíôéêÜ. Ïé ðáñá÷áñÜêôåò ìÜ-ëéóôá, Ý÷ïõí âÜëåé óôï óôü÷áóôñï åéäéêÜôï Lafite ôïõ 1982. Ðïëëïß åýðïñïé ÊéíÝ-æïé Ý÷ïõí áãïñÜóåé ìåãÜëá áðïèÝìáôá á-ðü ôç óïäåéÜ áõôÞ. ÕðÜñ÷ïõí üìùò ðéèá-íüôçôåò íá åßíáé ðëáóôÜ. Ôá äéáèÝóéìáðñïò ðþëçóç áðïèÝìáôá ôçò óïäåéÜò1982 åßíáé åëÜ÷éóôá. Åßíáé ëïéðüí ìÜëëïíáðßèáíï íá ìðïñåß êáíåßò íá áðïêôÞóåéðïëëÜ êéâþôéá ôïõ ðñáãìáôéêïý êñáóéïý.

¼ôáí ç êéíÝæéêç ïéêïíïìßá ùñéìÜóåé,óå 10 Þ 15 ÷ñüíéá, ïé ôéìÝò ôùí Lafite èáäéáìïñöùèïýí äéáöïñåôéêÜ áöïý ôüôåäåí èá ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé ìüíï óôá ðëáß-óéá ôùí åìðïñéêþí óõìöùíéþí, áëëÜ èáôá æçôïýí ïé êáôáíáëùôÝò, ãéá ôçí ðñïóù-

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Chinese, is a bubble. The production of fine winerequires the vine age to average 30-40 years.Vines older than 80 years must be replaced.Hence, a chateau is always taking out old vinesand planting young vines. But grapes from youngvines cannot produce high quality wine. Greatchateaus like Lafite and Latour use the grapes fromyoung vines to produce second label wine torecover some costs. These second labels are usu-ally quite cheap. They are usually much cheaperthan second growth wines.

For example, Lafite's second label, Carruadesde Lafite, sold for about 200 £ pounds per caseuntil five years ago. Since 2005, the price ofCarruades de Lafite has increased roughly tentimes. Its price sometimes rival the prices of non-Lafite first growth wines and is usually higher thangreat second growth wines. Little Lafite is not a

seemed genuine. And the fakes were probablydecent wines, possibly some good second growthpoured into a Lafite bottle. They just weren't thereal thing. The forgers have targeted the legendary1982 vintage in particular. Many rich Chinese havebought large stocks of 1982 Lafite. The odds arethat these are all fakes. There are very few bottlesof the vintage left. It is highly unlikely that one canget several cases of the real thing.

When the Chinese economy matures in ten orfifteen years, prices for Lafite may come underpressure, as entertaining for business changes.The final demand would come from personalenjoyment, making the wines more price sensitive.Japan has already gone through such a cycle.

While I am not sure that the Lafite phenomenonis a bubble, I am quite sure that Chateau Lafite'ssecond label, Carruades de Lafite or little Lafite in

sensation has something to do with the Frenchsystem for wine production. The laws prevent thegreat wine chateaus in Bordeaux from increasingproduction. The most important restriction is thatthey cannot irrigate. The chateaus have to cut outhalf of the grape buds to improve the quality of theother half. Wine producers in Australia and the USuse irrigation, and can produce four times as muchwine from the same acreage of land. Bordeauxwine producers have to go for quality and highprices rather than quantity. Thus, when a newsource of demand comes, the prices go up.

Indeed, the Lafite price is so high that it has ledto a large fake industry. Some analysts estimatethat 70 percent of China's Lafite consumption iscounterfeit. I personally experienced this on a fewoccasions. The people who served me fake Lafitedidn't know it, because at the very least, the prices

ðïäçëþíåé "ôï ìéêñü áäåëöÜêé ôïõ Lafite",Üñá ðñïúäåÜæåé ãéá Ýíá ðáñüìïéï ðñïúüí,êáôÜ êÜôé ëéãüôåñï êáëü. Ùò åê ôïýôïõ,ãßíåôáé ôï õðïêáôÜóôáôï ôïõ Lafite. Åðé-ðëÝïí, ç õðåñâïëéêÜ õøçëÞ ôéìÞ ôïõ öáß-íåôáé íá åíéó÷ýåé áõôÞ ôçí áíôßëçøç. Ôïõ-ëÜ÷éóôïí ç åðéëïãÞ äåí öáßíåôáé öèçíÞóôïí ïéêïäåóðüôç.

Ôï ìÝãåèïò ôçò äéáóôñÝâëùóçò ôçòôéìÞò ôùí Carruades ó÷åôßæåôáé ìå ôá áðï-èÝìáôá ôçò óïäåéÜò ôïõ 2000 óôï inter-net. Âåâáßùò, ìå ôïí êáéñü, ç öïýóêá èáóêÜóåé. Ôüôå, ãéáôß íá áíçóõ÷ïýìå ãé'áõ-ôü; Ôï ðñüâëçìá åßíáé ðùò Ý÷åé êáôáíôÞ-

óåé ðñïóâïëÞ ãéá ôïõò Üëëïõò ìåãÜëïõòïéíïðïéïýò. ÍôñÝðïìáé åéëéêñéíÜ ãéá ôçíôåñÜóôéá æÞôçóç ôùí ÊéíÝæùí ðïõ äç-ìéïýñãçóå áõôü ôï öáéíüìåíï. ¸÷ù ï ß-äéïò ãßíåé ìÜñôõñáò óêçíþí ðïõ ÊéíÝæïéôïõñßóôåò öïñôþíïõí êéâþôéá áðü ôïLittle Lafite, óå åîùöñåíéêÝò ôéìÝò, áðü ôïBordeaux ãéá ôçí Êßíá.

Ïé ãáëëéêïß ðýñãïé äéáôçñïýí ôéò ðá-ñáäïóéáêÝò ìåèüäïõò ïéíïðïßçóçò. ÅßíáéóêëçñÝò, äáðáíçñÝò êáé óõ÷íÜ äåí áöÞ-íïõí êÝñäç. Ïé äéÜóçìïé ðýñãïé ìðïñïýííá åðåíäýïõí óå ðïëëÞ äïõëåéÜ êáé õøç-ëÞò ðïéüôçôáò ôå÷íïëïãéêü åîïðëéóìü ãéá

íá êñáôïýí õøçëÞ ôçí ðïéüôçôá êáé õøç-ëÝò ôéìÝò. Ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá Chateaux ôïõBordeaux üìùò äåí åßíáé ôüóï ôõ÷åñÜ. Õ-ðïöÝñïõí áðü ÷áìçëÝò ôéìÝò êáé ìéêñÝòðïóüôçôåò. ÅðéóêÝöôçêá Ýíáí ðýñãï å-êôüò êáôÜôáîçò, ðåñßðïõ 2 ÷éëéüìåôñá á-ðü ôï Chateau Petrus -ôï ïðïßï ðáñÜãåéôï áêñéâüôåñï êñáóß ôïõ Bordeaux. Ôïêñáóß ôïõ ðïëý êáëü. Óå êÜðïéåò êáëÝò÷ñïíéÝò ìÜëéóôá, óõãêñßíåôáé ìå êÜðïéåòäåýôåñåò åôéêÝôåò ôùí ðñùôïêëáóÜôùí.¼ìùò ç ôéìÞ ôïõ åßíáé óôï Ýíá ðåíôçêï-óôü ôçò ôéìÞò ôùí Carruades.

Ìéá áãïñÜ åßíáé áðïôåëåóìáôéêÞ üôáíïé êáôáíáëùôÝò Ý÷ïõí óõíåßäçóç, ãíþóçêáé êÜíïõí ôéò ëïãéêÝò åðéëïãÝò. Ìéá á-ðïôåëåóìáôéêÞ áãïñÜ äßíåé êßíçôñá óôïõòðáñáãùãïýò íá âåëôéþíïõí ôçí ðïéüôçôáêáé ôï êüóôïò ôùí äéáäéêáóéþí ðïéïôéêïýåëÝã÷ïõ. Áõôüò ï êýêëïò ïäçãåß óôçí äç-ìéïõñãßá ìåãÜëùí åìðïñéêþí óçìÜôùíðïõ äéáñêïýí. Ç ãáëëéêÞ áãïñÜ ôïõ êñá-óéïý åßíáé Ýôóé. ÖïâÜìáé ðùò, óôï ðÝñá-óìá ôùí ÷ñüíùí, ç êéíÝæéêç æÞôçóç èá ÷á-ìçëþóåé ôçí áðïôåëåóìáôéêüôçôá ôçò á-ãïñÜò êáé èá ðáñáóýñåé ìáæß ôçò, ðñïò ôáêÜôù, ìåãÜëåò ìÜñêåò. ¼ôáí ïé ïéíïðá-ñáãùãïß óõíäõÜóïõí ôï åðßðåäï ôçò ôé-ìÞò ìå ôçí ðñïðáãÜíäá, êáé ü÷é ìå ôçíðïéüôçôá, èá åóôéÜóïõí ðåñéóóüôåñï óôïmarketing êáé ëéãüôåñï óôçí åðÝíäõóç ãéáôç âåëôßùóç ôçò ðïéüôçôáò. Èá Þôáí ôñá-ãùäßá áí ç æÞôçóç áðü ôçí Êßíá, ðïõ öÝñ-íåé åýêïëï ÷ñÞìá, ðáñáóýñåé óå êáôñá-êýëá ìéá ãáëëéêÞ êëçñïíïìéÜ ðïõ Ý÷åé ðÝ-íôå áéþíåò æùÞ. © http://english.caing.com/2010-07-07/100158965.html l

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bad table wine. But it is definitely not a grand wine.Its meteoric rise is really due to mistaken identity.

As Lafite's price becomes a small fortune, thesearch for a substitute is a natural marketresponse. In China, the substitute is little Lafite.The choice is way off the mark. If one shifts fromLafite to Latour, Haut Brion, or Margaux, it wouldbe rational. Their qualities are similar. WhenLafite's price is so much higher than that of others,they should become the next choices. But, inChinese, little Lafite has the connotation of Lafite'sjunior brother, probably similar but a bit less good.Hence, it becomes the substitute for Lafite.Moreover, as its price has risen, it seems to con-firm its worth. At least the choice doesn't lookcheap to the host.

The magnitude of price distortion in theCarruades de Lafite is probably similar to that of

internet stocks in 2000. Of course, over time, thebubble bursts. So why should we be upset aboutit? The problem is that it has become an insult toother great winemakers. I'm really ashamed of theenormous Chinese demand that has created thisphenomenon. I personally witnessed Chinesetourists unloading cases of little Lafite at enormousprices in Bordeaux to ship back to China.

French wine chateaus maintain traditional meth-ods for making wine. It is arduous, costly and oftenunrewarding. The top chateaus can afford a lot oflabor and fine equipment to maintain quality andsustain high prices. Most chateaus in Bordeaux arenot so lucky. They suffer through low prices andlow quantities. I visited one unclassified chateauabout two kilometers from Chateau Petrus, themaker of the most expensive wine in Bordeaux. Itswine is quite good. For some good vintages, it is

comparable to the second labels of the first growthchateaus. But it sells for one fiftieth of whatCarruades de Lafite does.

A market is efficient when consumers areinformed and make rational choices. An efficientmarket motivates producers to improve quality andcontrol cost. The virtuous cycle leads to greatbrands that last. The French wine market is likethat. I am afraid that Chinese demand is decreas-ing the market efficiency and may bring downgreat brands over time. When winemakers see theprice a result of propaganda, not quality, they willfocus on marketing and decreasing investment forimproving quality. It would be a tragedy if Chinesedemand, by bringing easy money, brings down aFrench legacy that has lasted for five centuries". © http://english.caing.com/2010-07-07/100158965.html l

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ìå ôç öñïíôßäá ôïõ ÄçìÞôñç ÐïôáìéÜíïõÔñþãïíôáò ¸îù

Áò ìïõ åðéôñáðåß íá êáôá÷ùñßóù óÞìåñá óôç óôÞëç áðï-óðÜóìáôá áðü ôá óýíôïìá ó÷üëéá ðïõ áíÝëáâá íá óõíôÜ-îù ãéá ïñéóìÝíá áðü ôá áèçíáúêÜ åóôéáôüñéá ðïõ âñÜâåõ-

óå öÝôïò ç åðéôñïðÞ ôïõ ðåñéïäéêïý E-Gourmet, óôçí ïðïßá Ý÷ùôçí ôéìÞ íá óõììåôÝ÷ù. Ç áðüöáóç ãéá ôéò äéáêñßóåéò Þôáí âåâáß-ùò óõëëïãéêÞ, óôï ðñïóùðéêü ó÷üëéï üìùò äéáöáßíïíôáé êáé ïé á-ôïìéêÝò ðñïôéìÞóåéò ðïõ áíôéóôïé÷ïýí êáé óå èåñìÝò óõóôÜóåéòðñïò êÜèå åíäéáöåñüìåíï.

>Electra Restaurant Roof Garden ÄéÜêñéóç óôçí êáôçãïñßá "ÍÝá ÅëëçíéêÞ Êïõæßíá"ÌåãÜëç ç ðñüêëçóç ãéá ôïí ôáëáíôïý÷ï chef Ãéþñãï ÂåíéÝñç. Ôïêáëü öáãçôü áðáéôåß ðñÜãìáôé ìéá êÜðïéá åóùóôñÝöåéá. Ðþò íáðñïóçëùèåßò üìùò óôï ðéÜôï óïõ üôáí áðÝíáíôß óïõ ðñïâÜëëåéï Éåñüò ÂñÜ÷ïò, Ýôóé öáíôáóìáãïñéêÜ üðùò äåí ôïí Ý÷åéò ßóùò

EðéëïãÝò êáé óõóôÜóåéò

äåé ðïôÝ óïõ;... ¼óï èá óêáñþíåé (ðÜíôùò) ðéÜôá üðùò ôá ÷ôÝíéáìå óêïñäáëéÜ ðáíôæáñéþí Þ ç æåóôÞ óïýðá îéíüìçëùí ìå ðáãùìÝ-íç êñÝìá, ï ÂåíéÝñçò äåí Ý÷åé íá öïâçèåß êáìßá ðñüêëçóç.

>Sale e Pepe ÄéÜêñéóç óôçí êáôçãïñßá "ÉôáëéêÞ êïõæßíá"Äåí åßíáé ìéêñü ôï êïìðëéìÝíôï- ìáò ðáñáðÝìðåé, áíôéèÝôùò,óôçí Ýíäïîç áèçíáúêÞ ðáñÜäïóç ôïõ Ýìðåéñïõ êÜðåëá- áëë' ïãëõêïìßëçôïò Ivan Ottaviani äåí èá åß÷å ßóùò Üäéêï íá ðáñáðïíå-èåß ãéá ôï üôé ùò ôþñá Ý÷åé ó÷åäüí áðïêëåéóôéêÜ áíáãíùñéóôåß ùòåðéìåëÞò ïéíï÷üïò. Êé üìùò, ôï êïëùíáêéþôéêï óôÝêé ôïõ åßíáé ß-óùò ç ðéï êáëïâáëìÝíç, èåëêôéêÞ êáé öéëüîåíç áèçíáúêÞ ôñáôïñß-á. Áðü ôá ëßãá åóôéáôüñéá óôçí ðüëç ìáò üðïõ êõñéáñ÷åß ç ìõñù-äéÜ áðü ôá åêôåèåéìÝíá êáðíéóôÜ ÷ïéñïìÝñéá… îïñêßæïíôáò ôïöñÝóêï, íåïðëïõôßóôéêï... áíèñùðéíü êñÝáò...

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ÓåñöÜñïíôáò óôï Énternet, ìå ôçí ïéíïëüãï Äñ. Ìáñïýóá Ôóá÷ÜêçÏéí...ternet

>ÁëÜôóé Âñáâåßï óôçí êáôçãïñßá "ÅëëçíéêÞ êïõæßíá"Ðïéá ìðïñåß íá åßíáé ç êáëýôåñç åããýçóç ôçò öñåóêÜäáò óôï ôñá-ðÝæé; Ìá, üôáí óå ðñïôñÝðïõí íá æçôÞóåéò ìáæß ìå ôá ÷üñôá ðïõäéáëÝãåéò -ôï óôáìíáãêÜèé, áò ðïýìå, ðïõ ï Óôáýñïò ÈåïäùñÜêçòîáíÜêáíå... ðñùôáãùíéóôÞ óôçí êïõæßíá ìáò- êáé ôï áóõíáãþíéóôïðéêñü æïõìß ôïõò! Ãéá íá ðÜñïõí ìåôÜ óåéñÜ ïé öáêÝò ìå ôéò áëá-ôóïåëéÝò, ôá öïõñíéóôÜ êáëôóïýíéá, ôï êïêüñé ìå ðïõñÝ óåëéíüñé-æáò, ïé ÷áíéþôéêïé ëïõêïõìÜäåò ìå ìÝëé êáé ëåâÜíôá…

>ÂëÜóóçò Âñáâåßï óôçí êáôçãïñßá "All Time Classic"Ç ôáâÝñíá ôïõ ÂëÜóóç… âñáâåýåôáé áðü ôï ðåñéïäéêü ìáò ùò alltime classic. Ç ôéìçôéêÞ áõôÞ äéÜêñéóç áíáäåéêíýåé áóöáëþò ôçí õ-ðïäåéãìáôéêÞ áíôï÷Þ ôçò óôï ÷ñüíï. ÕðÞñîáí ùóôüóï ìåñéêÝò åðé-öõëÜîåéò áðü ìÝëç ôçò åðéôñïðÞò ãéá ôï êáôÜ ðüóïí ï îå÷ùñéóôüòáõôüò Ýðáéíïò êáëýðôåé åðßóçò åðáñêþò êáé ôç íÝá äõíáìéêÞ åì-öÜíéóç ôïõ "ÂëÜóóç" óôá Éëßóóéá. ÌåôÜ ôïí Ëõêáâçôôü êáé ôçí Ðëá-ôåßá Ìáâßëç üðïõ ãáëïõ÷Þèçêáí ãáóôñïíïìéêÜ ãåíéÝò ïëüêëçñåòÁèçíáßùí. ¢ñóç åðéöõëÜîåùí: Åìåßò ôéìïýìå ôç äéá÷ñïíéêÞ ðïñåß-á ôïõ êáôáóôÞìáôïò, åíþ ç êáèçìåñéíÞ... äéáäÞëùóç ðåëáôþí, ìå-óçìÝñé âñÜäõ- áõôü ôï ôïõñëïý ìå ôï ãéáïýñôé, ôá ñåâßèéá ìå ôïóðáíÜêé, ôï ãïõñïõíüðïõëï ãêéïýëìðáóç Þ ôï æåìáôéóôü ãáëáôï-ìðïýñåêï, ðïéïò èá ôï ðñùôïðÜñåé;- ðéóôïðïéåß ôç óçìåñéíÞ åðé-ôõ÷ßá ôïõ.

Õ.Ã. ÐñïóÝîáôå ìÞðùò ôï óôïß÷çìá ðïõ åß÷á âÜëåé ìå ôïí åáõôüìïõ, íá ðáñïõóéáóôïýí ôá ôéìþìåíá åóôéáôüñéá êáé ôá åìâëçìáôé-êÜ ðéÜôá ôïõò, ÷ùñßò íá ÷ñçóéìïðïéçèïýí ïýôå ìéá öïñÜ ïé ëÝîåéò"ãåýóç" êáé "íïóôéìéÜ", êáèþò êáé ôá... ðáñÜãùãÜ ôïõò (ãåõóôéêü,íüóôéìï, ðåíôáíüóôéìï... êáé äå óõììáæåýåôáé); Áò ìïõ åðéôñáðåßåäþ êáé ìéá óýóôáóç, õðåíèýìéóç ìÜëëïí, ðñïò ôïõò êïõæéíïãñÜ-öïõò: ôá åõêüëùò åííïïýìåíá (õðï÷ñåùôéêÜ) ðáñáëåßðïíôáé. Á-öÞóôå ôïõò ðåëÜôåò íá êñßíïõí ôéò óõóôÜóåéò óáò.

ÅðåéäÞ, ùò ãíùóôüí, ìéá åéêüíá ßóïí ÷ßëéåò ëÝîåéò, êáéëüãù ôïõ üôé ó'áõôü ôï ôåý÷ïò áíáöåñèÞêáìå óå ìç-÷áíÞìáôá ïéíïðïéåßùí (óôá êýñéá Üñèñá) èá êÜíïõìå

ìéá äéáäéêôõáêÞ îåíÜãçóç óôï ìç÷áíïëïãéêü åîïðëéóìü ðïõáíáöÝñáìå. Áò îåêéíÞóïõìå ìå ôïí ðéï "ðåñßåñãï" êáé äýóêïëï óôçí êá-ôáíüçóç ëåéôïõñãßáò ôïõ, ïéíïðïéçôÞ ÃáíõìÞäç. Ìðåßôåóôï youtube (www.youtube.com) êáé óôï search ôïõ, âÜëôåGanimede Fermentation Technology. ÊÜíôå êëéê óôçí ðñþôçåðéëïãÞ ðïõ èá óáò âãÜëåé Criveller Ganimede FermentationTechnology. ¸÷åé âéíôåÜêé ðïõ åîçãåß (êáé äåß÷íåé) ðùò ëåé-ôïõñãåß ï ÃáíõìÞäçò. Áêüìç êáé åÜí äåí êáôáëáâáßíåôáéáããëéêÜ (ôï video åßíáé óôá áããëéêÜ) áðü ôéò åéêüíåò èá êá-ôáëÜâåôå. ¸÷åôå õðïìïíÞ üìùò ãéáôß ôï ðùò äïõëåýåé ïÃáíõìÞäçò ôï äåß÷íåé ìåôÜ ôï äåýôåñï ìéóü ôçò ôáéíéïýëáò. Ãéá íá äåßôå ðùò äïõëåýåé ôï åêñáãéóôÞñéï âÜëôå óôïsearch ôïõ youtube ôç ëÝîç destemmer. Èá âãïõí ðïëëÝòåðéëïãÝò, ïé ðåñéóóüôåñåò åßíáé áîéïðñåðåßò êáé èá óáíäþóïõí ìéá éäÝá ðåñß ôßíïò ðñüêåéôáé êáé ðùò áêñéâþò äïõ-ëåýåé. Åáí âÜëåôå ôç ëÝîç mohno óôï youtube, óáí ðñþôç åðéëï-ãÞ èá óáò âãÜëåé ðÜëé video áðü ôçí åôáéñåßá Criveller. ÊÜ-íôå êëéê ãéá íá äåßôå ðùò åßíáé ðåñßðïõ ìéá mohno áíôëßá.Ðñïóï÷Þ ìüíï ãéáôß ç óõãêåêñéìÝíç óôï ôáéíéÜêé áõôü åßíáéðÝíôå öïñÝò ìåãáëýôåñç (ìðïñåß êáé ðåñéóóüôåñï) áðü ôéòêáíïíéêÝò ðïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé óõíÞèùò óôá ïéíïðïéåßá!ÐÜíôùò ìÝóá óôï youtube ìðïñåßôå íá âñåßôå äåêÜäåò ÷é-ëéÜäåò âéíôåÜêéá ãéá ôï êñáóß, Üëëá áñêåôÜ áîéüëïãá, Üëëáðïëý áóôåßá êáé Üëëá ãéá êëÜìáôá, üðùò óõíÞèùò óõìâáß-íåé ìå ôï youtube. ÎåêéíÞóôå ìå ëÝîåéò üðùò wine, wine-making, red winemaking, white winemaking, champagnewinemaking, êëð êáé èá êáôáëÞîåôå ìå ðïëëÝò åðéëïãÝòðïõ èá óáò êñáôÞóïõí áðáó÷ïëçìÝíïõò ãéá áñêåôÞ þñá.ÊáëÞ åðéôõ÷ßá!