4
The Illinois and Michigan Canal is a historically rich artery of travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi River. N early 150 years of dreaming, planning and negotiation led to 12 years of back-breaking work. The threat of cholera, typhoid and malaria knocked at the doors of crude shanties thrown together to provide a modicum of protection from the cold winter gales and scorching summer days of the frontier prairie. Without the vision of its proponents— and the sweat of thousands of immigrant laborers—the Illinois and Michigan (I&M) Canal would not have been dug, wedding Lake Michigan to the Illinois River, and ultimately the Gulf of Mexico. Chicago would have undoubtedly remained a quaint lakeside community rather than becoming the keystone of transportation across the developing nation. While veering from its original intent, today the 96-mile canal trail is managed by state and county agencies—with assistance from numerous volunteer organizations—and provides a trans- portation route frequented by hikers, bicyclists, joggers, kayakers, birders, photographers, and, when conditions permit, snowmobilers. Hal Hassen, the cultural resource coordinator for the Department of Natur- al Resources (DNR) points out that today the I&M Canal serves as an important corridor to Illinois’ past. “Visitors traveling the towpath are transported back in time with every step they take,” Hassen said. “Historic locks, locktender houses, a toll house and a grain elevator are interpreted and accessible to visitors. The communities that sprang up along the canal have his- toric properties that visitors may enjoy. Visiting the canal is like entering a time Story By Kathy Andrews Photos By Adele Hodde Historic photos courtesy of Lewis University Canal Collections 12,000 years ago The last glaciers retreat from northern Illinois, leaving a rich landscape of rivers, prairies, forests and lakes. Mastodons, mammoths and giant beavers become extinct. 1673 Jolliet and Marquette explore northern Illinois, and Jol- liet recommends construction of a canal to link Lake Michigan with the Gulf of Mexico. 1682 Fort St. Louis built atop Starved Rock. 1763 The British wrest control of the area from the French. 1769 Most of the Illinois tribe are killed after one is implicat- ed in the death of Chief Pontiac. 1770s Portage site used as a trade route during the Revolu- tionary War. 1783 What is now Illinois comes into American hands. 1795 Treaty of Greenville transfers land around mouth of the Chicago River from Native Americans to U.S. control. 1803 Construction begun on Fort Dearborn in Chicago. 1812 War of 1812 with Britain begins. Battle at Fort Dear- born. Wedding of the Waters Part One: touring the canals’ history from Chicago to Morris 2 / OutdoorIllinois June 2006 Railing at Canal Origins Park. Des Plaines River and I&M Canal, Joliet circa 1890. (Photo courtesy the Canal Corridor Association.)

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Page 1: of travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi ... · Native American’s west of the Mississippi River. 1C on8 stru3 ctio6 n on I&M Canal begins. 1P an8 ic o3 f 187 37,

The Illinois and Michigan Canal is a historically rich arteryof travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi River.

Nearly 150 years of dreaming,planning and negotiation ledto 12 years of back-breakingwork. The threat of cholera,typhoid and malaria knockedat the doors of crude shantiesthrown together to provide a

modicum of protection from the coldwinter gales and scorching summerdays of the frontier prairie.

Without the vision of its proponents—and the sweat of thousands of immigrantlaborers—the Illinois and Michigan (I&M)Canal would not have been dug, weddingLake Michigan to the Illinois River, andultimately the Gulf of Mexico. Chicagowould have undoubtedly remained aquaint lakeside community rather thanbecoming the keystone of transportationacross the developing nation.

While veering from its original intent,today the 96-mile canal trail is managedby state and county agencies—with

assistance from numerous volunteerorganizations—and provides a trans-portation route frequented by hikers,bicyclists, joggers, kayakers, birders,photographers, and, when conditionspermit, snowmobilers.

Hal Hassen, the cultural resourcecoordinator for the Department of Natur-al Resources (DNR) points out thattoday the I&M Canal serves as animportant corridor to Illinois’ past.

“Visitors traveling the towpath aretransported back in time with every stepthey take,” Hassen said. “Historic locks,locktender houses, a toll house and agrain elevator are interpreted andaccessible to visitors. The communitiesthat sprang up along the canal have his-toric properties that visitors may enjoy.Visiting the canal is like entering a time

Story By Kathy AndrewsPhotos By Adele HoddeHistoric photos courtesyof Lewis University CanalCollections

12,000 years agoThe last glaciers retreat from northern Illinois, leaving

a rich landscape of rivers, prairies, forests and lakes.

Mastodons, mammoths and giant beavers become

extinct.

1673Jolliet and Marquette explore northern Illinois, and Jol-

liet recommends construction of a canal to link Lake

Michigan with the Gulf of Mexico.

1682Fort St. Louis built atop Starved Rock.

1763The British wrest control of the area from the French.

1769Most of the Illinois tribe are killed after one is implicat-

ed in the death of Chief Pontiac.

1770sPortage site used as a trade route during the Revolu-

tionary War.

1783What is now Illinois comes into American hands.

1795Treaty of Greenville

transfers land around

mouth of the Chicago

River from Native

Americans to U.S.

control.

1803Construction begun on Fort Dearborn in Chicago.

1812War of 1812 with Britain begins. Battle at Fort Dear-

born.

Weddingof theWatersPart One:touring the canals’history fromChicago to Morris

2 / OutdoorIllinois June 2006 Railing at Canal Origins Park.

Des Plaines River and I&M Canal,Joliet circa 1890.

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Page 2: of travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi ... · Native American’s west of the Mississippi River. 1C on8 stru3 ctio6 n on I&M Canal begins. 1P an8 ic o3 f 187 37,

1816Treaty with Ottawa and Potawatomi; Chippewa tribes

cedes land along the Illinois River to build a canal.

1818Illinois becomes the 21st state.

1822A federal act authorizes survey and building of the

canal but provides no funds.

1825Erie Canal opens, leading to increased immigration to

Illinois.

1827Congress gives Illi-

nois 284,000 acres

of land to finance

construction of the

canal.

1830The towns of Chicago and Ottawa are laid out by the

Canal Commissioners.

1832Black Hawk War; treaties the following year banish

Native American’s west of the Mississippi River.

1836Construction on I&M Canal begins.

1837Panic of 1837, first major national depression.

1838Labor violence erupts among canal workers.

1840-1844Most work on the canal halted due to lack of funds.

1847Canal diggers unsuccessfully strike for more wages

and fewer hours.

1848I&M canal opens in April. First railroad begun in Chica-

go and first telegraph message received. The Chicago

Board of Trade founded to handle increased shipments

of grain.

1849A devastating cholera epidemic arrives in Chicago via

passengers from a canal boat.

1852Last year of major pas-

senger travel on the I&M;

Chicago and Rock Island

R.R. parallels canal.

1854Chicago and Rock Island

R.R. opened to the Mississippi River.

1858State penitentiary built in Joliet.

1861-1865U. S. Civil War.

1866Canal brings in more than $300,000 in tolls, the most

ever. Another cholera epidemic sweeps through the

region.

1869Iron and steel works open in Joliet; Chicago Water

Tower and pumping works open.

1871I&M Canal deepened and the flow of the Chicago River

reversed, allowing Chicago sewage to be sent down

the Illinois River; Great Chicago Fire; debt on the canal

paid off.

June 2006 OutdoorIllinois / 3

capsule and getting a glimpse of a loca-tion unlike any other in Illinois.”

“The I&M Canal is one of Illinois’most important stories, perhaps sur-passed only by Abraham Lincoln,” Ana

B. Koval, president of the Canal CorridorAssociation claimed. “The waterwaychanged how people and goods weretransported throughout the country.Although the canal no longer functions,it set the framework for a reliance onwater-based transportation that contin-ues today.”

Creation of a water route from theeast coast to New Orleans and beyondwas a vision originating with explorers ofthe developing new nation. Pathwaysthat Native Americans had traveled forcenturies drew explorers, map makers,fur traders and missionaries. Developingthe waterway was an integral part of thecreation of Illinois as the 21st state in1818, and became a leveraging tool forsetting the state’s northern boundary.

Financing for the canal project wasobtained in 1827 when the U.S. govern-ment granted Illinois 284,000 acres. In1829 the Canal Commission undertooknegotiation of land sales to generateresources for construction purposes andsurveying of sites for communities thatsprang up from Chicago to LaSalle.Twelve years after the July 4, 1836groundbreaking ceremony—but nearly150 years after conceptualization of acanal—barges laden with passengers andgoods pulled away from Chicago docks.

Ron Vasile, historian for the CanalCorridor Association, has conductedextensive research on the canal.

“The canal became a functional entityand played a key role in the Californiagold rush and the Underground Railroadand, unfortunately, was linked to a majorcholera epidemic that swept across thecounty,” Vasile said. “The canal alsobecame internationally significant whenEuropean investors put up $1.6 millionto finalize construction after Illinois’financial resources plummeted.”

When the Chicago and Rock IslandRailroad reached LaSalle in 1853 it sig-naled the demise of the passengerpacket boats, but for several moredecades the canal continued to provide

Along the I&M Canal, visitors can see a variety of

historic buildings, including the Locktender’s

house at Channahon (left) and the Rutherford Inn

and barn (above) at Dresden.

An interpretive panel in the Gaylord BuildingNational Trust Historic Site.

An annual youth fishing event at Lock 14.

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Lock 6 at Channahon circa 1900.

I&M Canal at Lockport circa 1910.

Page 3: of travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi ... · Native American’s west of the Mississippi River. 1C on8 stru3 ctio6 n on I&M Canal begins. 1P an8 ic o3 f 187 37,

1882Greatest tonnage shipped on the canal in a year,

more than 1 million tons.

1900Sanitary and Ship Canal opens.

1911Texaco oil refinery opens in Lockport; Starved Rock

designated a state park.

1914-1918I&M experiences a brief resurgence during World War I.

1922Cal Sag Channel opens.

1933Illinois Waterway opens

and I&M Canal officially

closes; Civilian Conser-

vation Corps establishes

camps along the I&M to make repairs.

1935Designation of Illinois and Michigan Canal State Park-

way from Joliet to LaSalle.

1941-1945U.S. involvement in World War II.

1942-1945Town of Seneca builds LST’s (landing ship tanks), and

the Joliet Arsenal provides TNT for American troops in

World War II.

1963I&M Canal designated a National Historic Landmark.

1964Stevenson Expressway opens in Chicago, built over

the first seven miles of the I&M Canal; dedication of

old canal warehouse in Utica for the LaSalle County

Historical Society.

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Des PlainesState

ConservationArea

Midewin NationalTallgrass Prairie

McKinleyWoods

Keepataw Preserve

Black Partridge Woods Nature

Preserve

Waterfall Glen Forest Preserve

Palos & Sag Valley Forest Preserves

Lake Katherine

Nature Preserve

Chicago Portage National Historic Site

Veterans Woods

Lockport Prairie Nature Preserve

Runyon Preserve

Dellwood Park

PilcherPark

Lake Renwick Heron Rookery

Nature Preserve

Billie Limacher Will- Joliet Bicentennial Park

ChannahonState Park

Goose LakePrairie StateNatural Area

HeideckeState Fish &Wildlife Area

Gebhard Woods SP

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W.G. Stratton State Park

Des PlainesState

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Chicago Midway Airport

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Lockport Lock and Dam

Lock #1

Lock #2Lock #3

Lock #4

Lock #6Lock #7

Lock #8Aux SableAqueduct

Nettle Creek Aqueduct

Brandon Road Lock and Dam

Dresden Island Lock and Dam

Little Red Schoolhouse

Nature Center

St. James of the Sag Church and Cemetery

Sag Quarries

Heritage Corridor Convention and Visitors Bureau

Santa Fe PrairieDeep Tunnel (TARP)

Isle a la Cache Museum

I&M Canal Visitor Center/ Gaylord Building

Will Co. Historical Society Museum

Old Illinois State Penitentiary

I M Canal StateHeadquarters

AbrahamLincoln

NationalCemetery

Camp Sagawau

Joliet Iron Works Historic Site

Union Station

U

Locktender's HouseLocktender's

House

Heritage Corridor Convention andVisitors Bureau

I&M

Canal State Trail

I&M Canal Bicycle Trail

Cen

tennial Trail

Gaylord Donnelley Canal Trail

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Visitor information

Historic canal towns

Corridor boundary

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4 Kilometers

4 / OutdoorIllinois June 2006

an economic means of shipping freight,especially bulk items such as coal,stone and timber. It was the 1900 open-ing of the Chicago Sanitary and ShipCanal that signaled the end of the canal,a fate sealed when channelization of theIllinois River was completed in 1933,providing a wider and deeper shippinglane to the Mississippi River.

Learning the history of canal commu-nities that stood the test of time, andthose that faded into near oblivion withcanal commerce, has been made easyby technological advances. A course oftravel that at one time took days cannow be made in a few hours.

Websites produced by DNR and theCanal Corridor Association (see sidebar)provide detailed descriptions and pho-tographs of historical landmarks, naturalfeatures and community services. Andafter taking these virtual tours, whowouldn’t itch for a chance to see thecanal first hand? Whether you dedicate a

“The contemplated canal between the Illinois river and Lake Michi-gan, if we regard the mere location of it, is local; but if we regardthe benefits resulting from it to the whole nation, and as a connect-ing link to the great chain of inland water communication betweenNew Orleans and some of the Atlantic states, it is clearly national.The extent of inland navigation, which will be opened when thiscanal is completed, will not be equaled in any country; and its bene-fits will be very generally and extensively felt. The political effect ofall such works is also very apparent. They will bring and bind moreclosely together, the various parts of the extended confederacy.”

Excerpt from 1831 speech of Illinois Governor Reynolds,reprinted in the Chicago Democrat, November 26, 1833.

I&M Canal fromChicago to Morris

Sited adjacent to the I&M Canal at the Canalport

Plaza in Morris, a replica canal boat provides visi-

tors a sense of what travel was like down the

nearly 100-mile water trail.

Boat with a cargo of salt at Lock 8circa 1912.

(Map courtesy the National Park Service.)

Page 4: of travel, connecting the east coast to the Mississippi ... · Native American’s west of the Mississippi River. 1C on8 stru3 ctio6 n on I&M Canal begins. 1P an8 ic o3 f 187 37,

June 2006 OutdoorIllinois / 5

presents a chance to trace a significantportion of Illinois’ history.

“The I&M Canal is one of Illinois’most unique resources,” Hassen con-cluded. “The canal transformed Chicagointo a transportation crossroads, settinginto motion a system that continues toserve the people of Illinois.”

Today, no matter your mode of trav-el, the I&M Canal will take you on a trailof discovery of a land shaped by NativeAmericans, French explorers and thou-sands of immigrant laborers. You’ll passthrough communities once frequentedby mule tenders, frontier businessmenand pioneers with a dream of carvingout a life on the prairie.

day or several long weekends to explor-ing the trail on bike or foot, or opt for all orpart of the 75-mile driving tour fromLemont to LaSalle-Peru, the I&M Canal

Join us for next month as our trekdown the I&M Canal continues from

Seneca to LaSalle-Peru.

1969I&M Canal office in Lockport closed and turned over

to the Will County Historical Society.

1974I&M Canal transferred to the jurisdiction of the Depart-

ment of Conservation (now Department of Natural

Resources).

1981National Park Service

releases concept plan

for I&M Heritage Corri-

dor.

1984I&M National Heritage

Corridor named the

nation’s first Heritage Corridor.

1998150th anniversary of the opening of the canal; dedica-

tion of the Joliet Iron Works Historic Site.

2000Corridor driving tour signs installed.

2002Joliet Area Historical Museum opens.

2004I&M Canal Heritage Corridor Commission sunsets.

Timeline courtesy of the Canal Corridor Association.

Places to See and Things to Do

To learn more about the natural and historic resources located along the I&M Canal, andassociated recreational activities, visit www.dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/PARKS/I&M/

Main.htm or www.canalcor.org. Both sites offer virtual tours of some of the canal structures.Highlights of offerings are listed below.

Natural� Prairie habitats: Santa Fe Prairie Nature Preserve (Hodgkins), Lockport Prairie NaturePreserve (Lockport).

Historic� Canal locktenders house: Aux Sable, Channahon.� Canal locks: Aux Sable, Channahon.� Canal aqueduct: Aux Sable, Gebhard Woods State Park.� Replica canal boat: Canalport Plaza (Morris).� Diagonal bridge: Gebhard Woods State Park.� Native American sites: Briscoe Mounds (1200 A.D., Channahon).� Civilian Conservation Corp structures: Channahon, Gebhard Woods State Park, Aux Sable.� Cemeteries: Evergreen Cemetery (Chief Shabbona), Dresden Cemetery.� Rural structures: Dresden (Rutherford Inn, barn and warehouse).� Museums: Isle a la Cache Museum (Romeoville), Gaylord Building National Trust His-toric Site (oldest remaining commercial building in the canal corridor, Lockport), Will CountyHistoric Society (housed in the original canal headquarters, Lockport), Grundy County His-torical Society.� Interpretive centers/features: Canal Origins Park (Chicago), Gebhard Woods State Park.� Industrial ruins: Iron works (Joliet), brewery and furnace (Morris).

RecreationRecreational opportunities available on the I&M Canal State Trail and the state and

county facilities in proximity to the trail include picnicking, camping, hiking, bicycling, hunt-ing, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, boating, snowmobiling (when 4 or more inches of snow ispresent on the canal trail), wildlife observation, nature photography and more.

For detailed information on programs offered at state sites (Gebhard Woods State Park,Heidecke State Fish and Wildlife Area, Goose Lake Prairie State Natural Area, Des PlainesRiver Conservation Area) visit www.dnr.state.il.us/lands.

For information on properties managed by the Forest Preserve District of Will County(McKinley Woods, Lockport Prairie) visit www.fpdwc.org.

I&M Canal Partners� The Department of Natural Resourcesowns and manages the I&M Canal and thevarious state parks within the Heritage Corri-dor. Call (815) 942-0796 or visit www.dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/i&m/main.htm.� The Canal Corridor Association is a pri-vate, not-for-profit organization dedicated tocommunity economic development, historicpreservation and conservation within the Her-itage Corridor. Phone (815) 588-1100 or visitwww.canalcor.org.� The Heritage Corridor Convention & Visi-tors Bureau is the certified Convention andVisitors Bureau for the Heritage Corridor, andall of Will, Grundy and LaSalle counties.Phone (815) 727-2323 or visitwww.heritagecorridorcvb.com.� The Illinois and Michigan Canal NationalHeritage Corridor Civic Center Authority is astate agency committed to the historic, recre-ational and economic development of severalcommunities in the Heritage Corridor. Call(708) 352-4110. For information on the SantaFe Prairie Nature Preserve call (708) 598-6139, or visit www.civiccenterauthority.org.� Forest Preserve District of Will Countyfacilities are open 8 a.m.-8 p.m. April throughOctober and 8 a.m.-5 p.m November throughMarch. Visit www.fpdwc.org for information onLockport Prairie, Isle a La Cache Museum andMcKinley Woods.� Cook County Forest Preserve District.Canoe access to the I&M Canal is available atthe Willow Springs area (enter at Willow SpringsRd.). The FPD website also has a ChicagoPortage Canoe Trail Map identifying launchsites and canoe route distances from Stonyfordto Lemont. Visit www.fpdcc.com or write ForestPreserve District of Cook County, 536 NorthHarlem Avenue, River Forest, IL 60305.

In Evergreen Cemetery at Morris, a large boulder

marks the grave of Potawatomi Chief Shabonna.

Lock 8 at Aux Sable circa 1930.