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Ocean Waves
- what is a wave?
- wave characteristics
- ocean surface gravity waves
Geography 104 - “Physical Geography of the World’s Oceans”
Readings (Ocean Waves):Text Chapter 10 (pgs 190 - 217)Reader pgs. 231 – 242 (wave related material)
What is a wave?“In its simplest scientific form, a wave is
an expression of the movement or progression of energy through a medium.” (Chamberlin and Dickey)
“A wave is a disturbance that propagates through space and time usually with transference of energy.” (Wikipedia)
Ocean Wave Characteristics- propagating disturbance
- characteristic length scale (wavelength)
- characteristic time scale (period)
- low frictional losses – thus able to travel long distances
- energy transport (not water transport like currents*)
- oscillatory (or cyclical) flow
- weak interaction with other waves
- movement depends on wave period and water depth
- many types of waves in the ocean
Types of ocean surface waves- waves need a generating mechanism, and a restoring force
- at ocean surface, disturbing force is wind
- capillary waves (wavelengths < ~1cm) are restored primarily by surface tension (of interest for remote sensing of the ocean)
- surface gravity waves exist at air-sea interface and are restored by gravity
- internal gravity waves (not wind driven) exist at density interfaces beneath the ocean’s surface and are restored by gravity
Types of wave motion- progressive waves oscillate uniformly and
travel (progress) without breaking
particles move back and forth in direction of wave motion; examples: sound waves, pressure waves
particles move back and forth in direction perpendicular to wave motion; occurs primarily in solids
particles move in “orbitals” with both “back-and-forth” and “side-to-side” movement; need interface to exist; surface gravity waves
Definitions: (do on board)- crest- trough- amplitude- height- wavelength- wave period- wave frequency- wave steepness- phase speed (Equation 10.1)
Ocean Waves (con’t)
- wave (phase) speed of deep, intermediate, and shallow water waves
- Stokes drift or wave drift
- group speed (1/2 the phase speed in deep water)
- wave generation (should have been #1)
- wave interference (should have been #2)
- dispersion
Geography 104 - “Physical Geography of the World’s Oceans”
Readings (Ocean Waves):Text Chapter 10 (pgs 190 - 217)Reader pgs. 231 – 242 (wave related material)
wave speed depends on water depth (h) relative to wavelength (L)
deep water: h > 0.5Lspeed determined by L or T (not h); cg = 0.5c
shallow water: h < 0.05Lspeed determined by h (not L,T); cg = c
intermediate water: 0.05L < h < 0.5Lspeed determined by h and L or T;
most surface gravity waves near shore are in intermediate water depths (more complicated math)for L = 220 m (T = 12 sec.) h between 11 -> 110 m
deep water waves
L/2
- little motion below depth = 0.5L - orbit diameters decrease rapidly with depth to ~4% of surface
orbit diameter at surface = H
- phase speed = c = (gL/2π)1/2
- depth condition: h > 0.5L or L/2
- phase speed = c =√(gL/2π) tanh(2πh/L)- depth condition: L/20 < h < L/2
intermediate or transitional waves
Stokes Drift or Wave Drift – slight movement of water in the direction of wave propagation due to wave orbitals that are not exactly closed. Greatest near surface where orbital diameters are largest.
group velocity cg - deep water
waves travel in “trains”
individual waves in front of train constantly die, and are replaced by new waves at rear of train
crests appearat rear of group
crests disappearat front of group
group velocity cg - deep water
crests appearat rear of group
crests disappearat front of group
cg = group speed = ½ c
c = speed of individual wave
cg = group speed = ½ c
Fig. 10.18movement of individual waves through a wave group can be observed by throwing a rock in a still pond
wave development and evolution
surface gravity waves are generated by wind
wave generation is typically in deep water
wave height is controlled by three factors:- wind speed- duration (length of time wind blows)- fetch (length of ocean over which the wind blows)
fully developed sea - result of sustained winds over a fetch- energy input by wind is lost by wave breaking (some energy into surface current generation) and propagation of energy from the region of generation
wave formation - fully developed sea
wind
time increasing
fully developed sea:energy input of wind = energy loss by breaking & wave propagation away from storm center
Fig. 10.16
fully developed sea when wave steepness exceeds 1/7 (H/L)
as wind blows wave steepness changes
Fig. 10.17
wave energy exists in various frequencies (waves of varying periods) as wind is not constant
Fig. 10.11
idea of wave energy spectrum: waves of different characteristics (L,T,f) all exist at once
Fig. 10.19
wave generation by wind
dispersion – waves with longer T and L will travel faster. Dispersion is the separation of waves that travel with different speeds.
Wave Refraction and Focusing
wave refraction – bending of a wave in response to its non-uniform encounter of shallow water
wave refraction causes wave crests to align with lines of constant water depth (isobaths) and can alter the distribution of energy along a wave
wave focusing – convergence of wave energy
wave refraction: headlands and embayments
wave rays
lower wave energy
higher wave energy
equal energy offshore
Wave Reflection
wave reflection – when a wave encounters a vertical boundary it is reflected
wave reflection, when combined with energy of the non-reflected wave can significantly increase wave height
Wave Diffraction
wave diffraction – transfer of energy laterally along the crest of a wave
can result in dramatic change in wave direction
wave breaking
- winds constantly add wave energy to the ocean- but, ocean wave energy doesn’t increase continuously- wave breaking is the mechanism to remove wave energy- formally, wave breaking is dissipation of energy- wave breaking -> turbulence -> heat- wave breaking occurs when depth is sufficiently shallow- region of wave breaking is called the surf zone
wave breaking
c = sqrt(gh) in shallow water ; c = L/T for all waves
1) as h decreases, c decreases, L decreases, H increases2) H/L (steepness) increases3) breaking when H/L ≥ 1/7
wave breaking criteria: 1. steepness is large – H/L ≥ 1/7 2. or, depth is shallow – h ≤ 1.3 H
(crests move faster than troughs)
plunging breakers – steep beach for abrupt change in c
wave breaking
wave breaking – rip current
a net onshore transport of water occurs in the surf zone- crests moving faster than troughs- white water from breaking waves
net shoreward flow must be balanced
tsunamis
tsunami - Japanese word translates to “harbor wave”
Great Wave off the Coast of Kanagawa, by HokusaiImage often used in tsunami literature is misleading as tsunamis don’t typically manifest themselves as large breaking waves
tsunamis
- an extreme shallow water wave- caused by vertical displacement of the seafloor - not “tidal waves” as often assumed
tsunamis
- tsunami wavelength, L = ~200 km- L / 20 = 10 km- average ocean depth, h = ~4 km- h < L/20 => shallow water waves
- tsunami wave speed c = sqrt(gh) = ~200 m/s = 447 mph
- tsunami period, L/c = ~1000 sec = 16.67 minutes
- tsunami amplitudes (typically a few meters)
- tsunamis are highly energetic because L is large- tsunami “run-up” (decreasing h) causes damage
2004 Sumatra Tsunami
- magnitude ~9.2, the second largest earthquake ever recorded on a seismograph had the longest duration of faulting ever observed, between 8.3 and 10 minutes. It caused the entire planet to vibrate as much as 1 cm (0.5 inches) and triggered other earthquakes as far away as Alaska.
- sudden vertical rise of the seafloor by several meters displaced massive volumes of water, resulting in a tsunami
- the total energy of the tsunami waves equivalent to ~20x1015 joules