Oat Lipid e - The Soap Kitchen€¦ · · 2018-01-22Manufacturing Oat® Lipid e Selected oats are grown in Sweden by contracted producers to ensure the quality, traceability, sustainability

Oat* Lipid e has excellent absorbency and protective

properties, enhancing skin feel, moisturising and soothing

the skin.

What is Oat® Lipid e?

Oat® Lipid e is a natural lipid complex extracted from the oat kernel. It contains

approximately 10% polar lipids, is rich in skin-identical fatty acids including membrane

phospholipids and ceramides protected by powerful antioxidants.

Oat® Lipid e has a high linoleic acid content recognised as establishing and maintaining the epidermal water barrier

thereby improving skin barrier function. The complex contains antioxidants, in the form of alkyl phenolates,

tocotrienols and tocopherols, which have been shown to protect skin lipids from UV peroxidation and DNA

damage.

Ceramides, Phosphatidylcholine [PC] and Phosphatidylethanolamine [PE] are membrane-identical phospholipids

contained within Oat® Lipid e. The molecules have also been shown to support the barrier function helping to keep

skin in a healthy condition, slow down skin aging and maintain the stratum corneum.

Oat® Lipid e is easy to formulate with and provides superior benefits to most other natural oils used in skin care.

The structure of oat oil within the kernel

Oats are an unusual cereal crop due to a high lipid kernel

content (approximately 7%) allowing oil extraction from the

whole kernel with extractants such as carbon dioxide, hexane,

or ethanol. The oil is present in two distinct areas, the bran layer

and as whole oil bodies within the endosperm.

INCI Name % CAS EINECS Manufacturer

Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil 100% 840 12-26-0 281-672-4 Oat Services Ltd.

Oat® Lipid e A Refined Oat Oil

Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK

Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: [email protected]

* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749

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Oat oil extraction techniques

Extraction using the non-polar carbon dioxide at either sub

or supercritical pressures yields a clear yellow high

triglyceride oil with very small amounts of the polar lipids

(image 4). Hexane extracts polar and neutral lipids, but the

resultant oil contains large quantities of bound-starch,

which on a commercial scale produces a very dark oil,

unacceptable for most uses. Ethanol also produces a dark

red oil which on further processing can be refined to a

satisfactory clear golden colour for cosmetic use.

Image 2: Oat whole oil bodies after extraction Image 1: Starchy endosperm showing whole oil bodies (light grey)

The oat oil bodies are neutral lipid storage vesicles stabilised by phospholipid oleosin proteins. The oil bodies are

approximately 1μm in diameter. They are situated within the starchy endosperm and encapsulate the neutral

lipids, with the phospholipid half-unit membrane, having an external protein coat of isoforms of oleosin and

caleosin. It is the structure and constitution of the whole oil bodies which give Oat® Lipid e the unique profile and

properties (images 1, 2 & 3).

Oleosins

Phospholipid layer

Oil

Image 3: Oil body structure

Supercritical

CO2

Oat® Lipid e

Crude

Ethanol

Hexane


Image 4: Oat oil samples derived from alternative extractants.

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Oat® Lipid e

Restore and Replenish



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Manufacturing Oat® Lipid e

Selected oats are grown in Sweden by contracted producers to ensure the quality, traceability, sustainability and

safety of the raw material is maintained. The oats are cleaned, dehulled and stabilised prior to ethanol extraction.

Oat® Lipid e is extracted with a cellulose-derived ethanol to produce a high polar crude oil waxy matrix after which

the majority of the waxes, starch and pigments are removed. The refined oil is degassed, fine filtered and

drummed under nitrogen.

The resultant oil is an effective cosmetic ingredient with good colour and stability retaining the valuable active

components that many refined oils lack, and suitable for ECOCERT natural approval.

Why is Oat® Lipid e different?

Oat® Lipid e maintains excellent colour and clarity, whilst containing an active polar profile:


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Oat® Lipid e




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Oat® Lipid e Profile

Oat® Lipid e’s unique skin care properties are due to the natural ratio of lipids present in the oat:

Lipid classes in Oat® Lipid e

Average Minimum Maximum

Neutral Lipids

Sterol esters 1.20 0.80 1.80

Triacylglycerols 59.45 55.60 62.10

Free fatty acids 13.00 10.00 16.80

Cholesterol/sterols 11.77 10.60 14.50

Other 4.58 4.10 4.90

Total Neutral Lipids 90.00 87.40 91.50

Polar Lipids

Monogalactosyldiacylglycerols 1.47 0.90 2.50

Ceramides 1.15 0.70 1.40

Digalactosyldiacylglycerols 1.57 1.20 2.00

Phosphatidylethanolamine 0.67 0.40 1.00

Phosphatidic acid/Phosphatidylglycerol/Cardiolipin 0.05 0.00 0.10

Phosphatidylinositol 0.45 0.10 0.90

Phosphatidylserine 0.07 0.00 0.40

Phosphatidylcholine 0.97 0.70 1.20

Pigmented material 3.62 2.70 4.90

Total Polar Lipids 10.00 8.50 12.60


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Average Minimum Maximum

Saturated Fatty Acids

Myristic 14:0 0.16 0.15 0.18

Pentadecylic 15:0 0.01 0.00 0.06

Palmitic 16:0 14.80 14.49 15.08

Stearic 18:0 1.65 1.52 1.74

Arachidic 20:0 0.13 0.12 0.15

Behenic 22:0 0.06 0.00 0.12

Lignoceric 24:0 0.03 0.00 0.06

Total saturated 16.83 16.51 17.24

Monounsaturated Fatty Acids

Palmitoleate 16:1n-9 0.02 0.00 0.07

Palmitoleic 16:1n-7 0.19 0.17 0.21

Oleic 18:1n-9 41.75 39.74 42.87

Vaccenic 18:1n-7 0.96 0.79 1.08

Cetoleic 22:1n-11 0.03 0.00 0.10

Total monounsaturated 43.85 41.78 45.12

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids

Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids

Linoleic 18:2n-6 37.99 36.66 39.78

Eicosadienoic 20:2n-6 0.01 0.00 0.07

Homo-y-Linolenic 20:3n-6 0.01 0.00 0.07

Total Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 38.02 36.66 39.78

Omega-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids

Alpha-Linolenic 18:3n-3 1.31 1.21 1.46

Total Omega-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 1.31 1.21 1.46

Total Polyunsaturated 39.32 37.87 41.24

Oat® Lipid e Fatty Acid Profile


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Comparison with other oils

Oat® Lipid e has significant polar lipids compared to most oils together with balanced saturated,

monounsaturated and polyunsaturated profile.

Antioxidant content

Oat lipids are protected by potent natural antioxidants, including the tocotrienols, tocopherols, together with the

alkyl phenolates, which are known to be as effective an antioxidant as Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).

Oat® Lipid e

Almond (Sweet)

Argan Canola Daikon Radish Seed

Jojoba Golden

Macadamia Nut

Meadow Foam

Rosehip Safflower Wheat Germ

Hemp

Lipid Profile

Neutral Lipids 90.00 98.6 96.5 97.2 96.4 97.7 98.1 98.8 96.4 97.2 92.4 95.6

Pigmented material

3.62 3.6 2.8 1.2 3.6 3.5 2.8 2.3 1.4 1.9 7.6 4.4

Polar lipids 6.38 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Fatty Acid Profile

Total Saturated 16.84 9.69 18.62 8.79 10.82 1.34 18.24 1.19 6.32 11.38 18.24 10.7

Total Mono-unsaturated

43.85 64.73 52 54.53 68.72 97.96 76.83 80.8 15.1 15.35 14.31 14.71

Total Poly-unsaturated

39.32 25.58 29.38 36.7 20.45 0.71 4.93 18.01 78.58 73.28 67.45 74.59

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Tocotrienol Tocopherol

Alpha beta gamma delta total Alpha beta gamma delta total

Oat® Lipid e 379 25 56 17 477 131 18 2 2 153

Wheatgerm 2.5 8.2 0.24 - 11 191 65 tr 0.55 257

Coconut 3 0.17 0.64 0.1 4 0.2 tr 0.12 - 0.32

Corn 0.94 tr 1.1 0.26 2 18 1.1 44 2.2 65

Sesame tr - 0.34 - tr 7.9 0.41 36 1.2 46

Walnut tr - 0.17 tr tr 6.6 - 39 4.6 50

Linseed - - - - - 1.2 tr 52 0.95 54

Sunflower 0.11 - tr 0.27 tr 59 2.4 1.4 0.27 63

Rapeseed - - - - - 24 tr 39 0.98 64

Camelina - - - - - 3.8 0.09 72 1.3 77

Oat® Lipid e




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Oat® Lipid e is an excellent choice for the formulator:

Clear oil - easy to formulate

Excellent skin absorbency resulting in a ‘dry’ feeling oil

Wide temperature range for incorporation in

formulations

No dermal irritation

Hypo-allergenic, suitable for sensitive skins

Effective emollient

Excellent for use in baby care, moisturising and anti-

aging formulations, sun-care, tanning products and bath

oils

Typical Inclusion Rate: 1% - 10%

The beneficial effects of Oat® Lipid e components on the skin

Cholesterol

Skin structure has been referred to as similar to bricks and

mortar, where the skin cells are the bricks and the three

primary lipid classes, cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids

combine to create the mortar (image 5).

If cholesterol is depleted, the skin cells begin to deteriorate and

crumble away with the outer level of the skin, known as the

stratum corneum flaking.

Phospholipids

Phospholipid contain both a hydrophilic ‘head’, and a hydrophobic 'tail' allowing them to bind water to other

substances, acting as an effective moisturiser. This structure also allows them to form bilayers very similar to skin,

and are easily absorbed.

Phospholipids support the physiology of the skin, their chemical features correspond to those of endogenic

substances, and physically, they build up the same structure (bilayers) as the skin.

‘Bricks’ - corneocytes

‘Mortar’- intercellular lipid

Image 5: Structure of the Stratum Corneum

Oat® Lipid e is backed by experts

“Adding Oat® Lipid e to any and all skin care products is an absolute no-brainer.

In addition to its excellent sensory attributes, it is super beneficial to the

skin due to its lipid profile. It is effectively liquid skin in a nice feeling

luxurious oil!”

Chris Smith - Chrysalis Formulations

Oat® Lipid e




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Phosphatidylcholine

Phosphatidylcholine [PC] has a choline ‘head’ and a chain

of fatty acids making up the ‘tail’ (image 6). It contributes

to essential transport and control mechanisms of the

metabolism as well as improving and protecting cells and

membranes damaged by free radicals.

PC when mixed with water spontaneously generates cell-

like structures whose membranes are built up in bilayers similar to in natural cell structures (liposomes). Liposome

membranes show a similar structure to the barrier layers of the skin and can easily be integrated into the skin

layers.

Phosphatidylethanolamine

Phosphatidylethanolamine [PE] appears to acts as a catalyst during the assembly of membrane proteins to guide

the folding path for the proteins and to aid in the transition from the cytoplasmic to the membrane environment.

Linoleic Acid

The most abundant polyunsaturated fatty acid in human skin is linoleic acid, which is essential in establishing and

maintaining the epidermal water barrier. Linoleic acid is also the most abundant unsaturated fatty acid in oat oil,

which has been shown to be effective in reducing

transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the skin

permeability barrier.

Skin lipids are vitally important and present in variable

amounts depending on age, condition and disease. They

are an essential part of the stratum corneum permeability

barrier, where they form an intercellular matrix of

multilamellar sheets in which protein-enriched

corneocytes are embedded. Stratum corneum lipids are

now known to be important in controlling the permeability

barrier. Clinical conditions with impaired barrier function,

such as xerosis, atopic dermatitis, and ichthyotic disorders,

are linked to changes in stratum corneum lipid levels. Lipid

application has been shown to improve permeability barrier

function and improve these disorders.

EXTERNAL

INTERNAL

Trans-epidermal water loss

EXTERNAL - Lipids are deficient, TEWL occurs and epidermis is dry and flaky.

INTERNAL - lack of lipids that form the intercellular cement, permeability barrier breaks down and epidermis lacks cellular cohesion.

A deficiency of lipids in the stratum corneum is responsible for dry skin conditions. Oat® Lipid e ‘restores and replenishes’ the natural lipid balance of the skin.

Choline polar head

Hydrophobic fatty acid tail

Image 6: Structure of Phosphatidylcholine


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Normal ceramide

level

Decreased ceramide

level

Studies have shown that the skin heals itself by a transient burst of lipid synthesis after disruption of the barrier.

Although lipids account for only a small percentage of total stratum corneum weight (approx. 10%) they have a

significant effect on the permeability barrier. The chemical profile of stratum corneum lipids has been described

as approximately equal amounts of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, with very little phospholipid.

Consistent with the permeability measurements, the concentration of linoleic acid is threefold higher in the face

and abdomen than it is in the leg and foot.

The relationship between linoleic acid and the permeability barrier is well known, and that disruption of the

barrier was one of the major abnormalities in essential fatty acid (EFA) deficiency. Scaling and thickening of the

skin, as well as the increased transepidermal water loss can be reversed by topical application of linoleic acid.

Another essential role for linoleic acid is maintaining the stratum corneum “acid mantle,” which is important for

both impermeability and cutaneous antimicrobial defense

Ceramides

Ceramides are natural components of human skin. There are six ceramide subgroups found in the skin. All four

layers of the epidermis contain ceramides and they play an important role by creating a barrier which reduces

infection and helps to retain the skin’s moisture. Ceramides inhibit the action of elastase and collagenase, which

degrade collagen, elastin and other skin proteins.

Bacteria / pollution

Dry Skin (decreased ceramide level) Normal Skin (normal ceramide level)

‘Bricks and mortar’

Water Water

Bacteria / pollution

Allergens

Comparative images showing the impact of a decreased ceramide level in the skin. Oat® Lipid e contains ceramides

which can restore the skins ceramides level to moisturise dry skin conditions.


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Reduction in the amount of ceramides may result in dry skin, dermatitis, or wrinkles. They are found in the cell

membrane, mainly concentrated in the epidermis.

Along with other lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides prevent loss of water through the skin, and they also act as

a barrier against bacteria and environmental pollutants. Ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol make up about

40% of the lipids in the stratum corneum and work together to prevent moisture loss and keep skin moist and

supple .

Ceramide content declines with age, and cleansers can disrupt ceramides and lipids, leading to dry skin.

The benefits of ceramides in the skin go beyond keeping skin moist and supple, as they act as signalling molecules.

Ceramides are added to hair care products and conditioners as they bind to the hair shaft and make it less porous

and can assist in the regeneration of the cuticles of scalp. Natural ceramides are known to penetrate the skin

more effectively than synthetic versions.

Antioxidants

The unsaturated side-chain in tocotrienols allows them to penetrate tissues with saturated fatty layers more

efficiently, making them ideal for anti-aging in skincare. Tocotrienols combat oxidative stress of the skin by

reducing lipid peroxidosis from exposure to UV rays more effectively than tocopherols. Both tocopherols and

tocotrienols have long been known for their antioxidative properties against lipid peroxidation in biological

membranes and alpha-tocopherol has been considered to be the most active form. Current evidence suggests

tocotrienols are more effective antioxidants than tocopherols in in-vivo situations.

The antioxidative properties of oat oil have been

demonstrated to stabilise other oils.

Solar UVA produces free radicals within the skin. These

free radicals can then cause DNA damage and collagen and

elastin degradation resulting in wrinkles and other signs of

skin aging. The antioxidants in Oat® Lipid e will help reduce

the impact of UV induced free radical damage.


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Oat® Lipid e for the marketer

Contains ceramides

Rich in skin identical lipids

No dermal irritation

Hypo-allergenic

Vitamin E to protect skin lipids from UVB peroxidation

Provides surface and deeper moisturisation

Oat® Lipid e is a must-have ingredient in all skin care formulations! What makes it special is the concentration of

skin identical lipids and fatty acids found within it as well as its profile of very powerful antioxidants.

The balanced lipid profile supports excellent moisturising properties, and contribute towards similar functionality

and activity. Each of these essential fatty acid groups act in differing manner, working in combination to maintain

and repair skin. Oat® Lipid e has a unique profile delivering effective skin repair and maintenance, superior to

other natural oils.

For more information on Oat® Cosmetics ingredients visit www.oatcosmetics.com.


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Bibliography

CIR Expert Panel Meeting March 3-4 2011, Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils Group: http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/

files/118_final_oils_web.pdf

CIR (1987) Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Oleaic Acid, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Mystric Acid and Stearic Acid.

Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Vol6 (3): 321 – 401

http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_draft_steary_suppl3.pdf

Code of Federal Regulations 21CFR347.10: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?

fr=347.10&SearchTerm=colloidal%20oatmeal)

Code of Federal Regulations 21CFR184.1065: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?

fr=184.1065&SearchTerm=linoleic%20acid)

EFSA (2009) Scientific Opinion on the substantiation of health claims related to beta-glucans and maintenance of normal

blood cholesterol concentrations and maintenance or achievement of a normal body weight pursuant to Article 13(1) of

Regulation EC No 1924/2006. EFSA Journal 7(9) 1254. 16

EMEA (2008) Assessment Report on Avena Sativa L., Herba and Avena Sativa L., Fructis EMEA/HMPC/202967/2007

FSA (2009) Federal Register 62 FR 15343, March 31, 1997 - Food Labelling: Health Claims; Soluble Fiber From Whole Oats

and Risk of Coronary Heart Disease; Final Rule

RCTS, Inc. Clinical safety evaluation. Human repeated insult patch test with a body and hand formulation

containing 3% Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil. RCTS study no.: 1712 &1714. Unpublished data. 9-8-2004.

Unpublished data submitted by the Personal Care Products Council on June 30, 2010. 10 pages. Cited in CIR Expert Panel

Meeting March 3-4 2011, Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils Group:

http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/118_final_oils_web.pdf

Schwartz, H., Ollilainen, V., Piironen, V., & Lampi, A. M. (2008). Tocopherol, tocotrienol and plant sterol contents of vegeta-

ble oils and industrial fats.Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 21(2), 152-161.

Yokishi Miyachi and Toshikazu (eds): Atopic dermatitis—Medical Review Co., Ltd 2000


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http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_draft_steary_suppl3.pdf

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=347.10&SearchTerm=colloidal%20oatmeal

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=347.10&SearchTerm=colloidal%20oatmeal

http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/118_final_oils_web.pdf

Documents

Oat Lipid e - The Soap Kitchen€¦ · · 2018-01-22Manufacturing Oat® Lipid e Selected oats are grown in Sweden by contracted producers to ensure the quality, traceability, sustainability