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O sege gif þu siehest A 9th11th century starspangled AngloSaxon war banner
Lady Teleri the WellPrepared Team Storvik, Emissaries of Woe
Chalice of the Sun God October 25, 2014
Summary Astreus/star theme
+ golden standards mentioned in 8th10th cen. Beowulf poem + images of battle standards from the 11th cen. Bayeux Tapestry + images of stars from AngloSaxon sources + English goldwork techniques from the 9th cen. vestments of St. Cuthbert + 200th anniversary of Battle of Baltimore as additional inspiration = an AngloSaxon starspangled banner.
A scan of the reverse of the work is in the Appendix. Introduction Once I realized a ‘starspangled banner’ would fit this year’s theme, I couldn’t not do it. There are no extant war banners from my period, so I consulted various sources to create my entry. That such a thing might exisit, I source in Beowulf; for how it might look, I source in the Bayeux Tapestry, the Harley psalter, and the Franks Casket; and for how it might be made, I source in the St. Cuthbert vestments and the Maaseik embroideries. Golden Standards in Beowulf All excerpts from Seamus Heaney’s facing page translation1. Describing a standard raised on a king’s funeral ship, lines 4749:
And they set a gold standard up (Tha gyt hi him asetton segend gyldenne high above his head and let him drift (heah ofer heafod to wind and tide
Describing the standard given by Hrothgar to Beowulf as a victory token, lines 10191022
Then Halfdane's son presented Beowulf with a gold standard as a victory gift (segen gyldenne sigores to leane an embroidered banner; also breast mail (hroden hildecumbor and a helmet...
Describing a standard seen by Wiglaf in the dragon’s hoard, lines 27672771
And he saw too a standard, entirely of gold (Swylce he siomian geseah segn eallgylden
Hanging high over the hoard (heah ofer horde, hondwundra maest,
a masterpiece of filigree; it glowed with light (gelocen leoðocræftum
so he could make out the ground at his feet and inspect the valuables…
The online Old English Translator2 gives “hroden” in line 1020 as “covered, adorned, ornamented;” “hilde” is war or combat, and a “cumbor” is a banner, standard or ensign. “leoðocræftum” in line 2768 means “skill of hand.” So we have banners covered/adorned/ornamented with gold, applied by hand. I’ve interpreted this to be goldwork in the earliest opus anglicanum style, as represented in the 9th century vestments of St. Cuthbert. Battle Standards in the Bayeux Tapestry A very typical form of early medieval standard is a square or rectangle, sometimes with one or more charges, and two or more pennants. They are not very large somewhat bigger than a man’s hand, in most cases. These are usually showing sticking straight out from vertical spears. This may be an artistic convention, but my recreation comes close to achieving that stiffness. Back in the day, I had a CD with a highresolution image of the Tapestry. And I took notes and sketched some of the banners, perhaps ten years ago. I still have the sketch (see Appendix) and worked from that for this project but I’ve lost the CD. To illustrate the banner’s form, I’ve found some pictures on the Internet.
Figure 1, a detail from the Bayeux Tapestry (Wikimedia Commons).
The curled pennants with triangular pennants depending from them is unique, but the square or trapezoidal front piece is not. Note the border around a field displaying a simple charge. Crosses and pellets were very common. The images below are from hastings1066.com, which displays a reproduction of the original Tapestry3. The images are copyright, and used without permission under the Fair Use clause as part of a scholarly effort. They are somewhat small and hard to make out. Three pennants seems to be the most common. Some standards are solid, others have different colored bodies and pennants, and some have charges. They have a typical shape, but some are longer or more squat than others.
Figure 2: A collection of banners from a Bayuex Tapestry reproduction
This one:
is closest in shape to the one I’ve made. This one:
shows a row of three round charges, if you squint, and is closest in design to the one I’ve made. Stars in AngloSaxon Art I found only one true star in a quick search of AngloSaxon art the star of Bethlehem, shown on the Franks Casket:
Figure 3, Adoration of the Magi, Franks Casket (image source: Wikipedia) It is round, with thick rays that all reach equidistant from a round center. I thought about using this design directly, but without the context of the Bible scene, it looks more like a daisy than anything we’d recognize as a star. There’s a sun in the Harley psalter:
Figure 4: Sun decorating Psalm 62/63 in the Harley Psalter (source: A Clerk of Oxford blog4)
Harley 603 dates to the first half of the 11th cen. The sun is circular, with rays of about equal length radiating out. The rays wiggle. And there’s the famous portrait of Haley’s comet, a “wandering star”, in the Bayeux Tapestry:
Figure 5: ISTIMIRANT STELLA in the Bayeux Tapesry (source: Wikimedia Commons)
It looks very much like the Harley sun, except for its tail. Using these as my sources, I came up with this design:
Figure 6: The design
Originally, I planned to work the stars and the background in gold, using colored silk for the black lines. But during execution, it seemed that the stars would get lost in a goldongold (“eallgylden,” allgolden?) design, and I made the field colored and the border gold again. I also widened the border to more closely match the Bayeux examples of banners, and make the banner more “gylden.” Making the Banner: AngloSaxon Embroidery My banner’s ground is white linen. The Maaseik Embroideries, a 9th cen. AngloSaxon embroidery, is also done on linen5. Everything else I did is based on the St. Cuthbert vestments. My source for the St. Cuthbert vestments is Jill Ivy’s book, Embroideries at Durham Cathedral.6 Table 1 summarizes the features of the 9th century vestments and how they are similar to my banner:
St Cuthbert Vestments StarSpangled Banner
Silk ground Linen ground
Gold threads made of gold foil wrapped around red silk core
Gold threads made of synthetic (mylar?) wrapped around yellow mystery fiber core
Gold threads laid down at 128 per inch A heck of a lot coarser than that
Gold threads surface couched with red silk Gold threads surface couched with red silk
Haloes aside, couching done in “brickwork” pattern
Aimed for brickwork pattern, mostly hit it.
Embroidered figures on golden ground Golden figures on embroidered ground
Embroidery fill done in split stitch in colored silks
Embroidery fill done in split stitch in red silk
Embroidered outlines of figures done with stem stitch
No embroidered outlines used
Gold threads seem to be mostly laid down in a back and forth pattern
Gold threads mostly laid down in spiral patterns. (Tried back and forth; thicker gold threads don’t do it well.)
Edged with goldbrocaded tabletwoven trim Not edged. Does have linen ties for attaching to spear shaft.
Lined with red silk Backed with violet silk
Table 1: Comparing period technique to my technique
Construction Details All the silk I had onhand was very fine. I wanted something sturdy to support all the embroidery, so I went with linen. I also hoped it would achieve that “sticking straight out” effect, which it does. My very first goldwork spiral, I didn’t know to pull the ends of the thread to the back, so I trimmed them very close and couched them down. (You can see the yellow pouf of the core thread in the center of one of the stars.) The rest are all properly pulled through and secured on the back. (“Properly” by modern goldworking technique, anyway. Ivy is silent on how the gold threads are started and stopped on the vestments.) I started the background fill carrying two silk threads in my needle. But that seemed too thin. Four strands looked too puffy and coarse, but three threads gave me consistently good coverage without being too bulky. The silk backing was handsewn with backstitch, except for the top edge, which was overcast. Red silk thread was used. The linen ties are handsewn French seams, finished with overcast stitches in waxed linen thread. I picked silk as a backing material because it seemed luxurious and colorful. Unfortunately, it’s much lighter weight than the linen, so the linen sort of pulls it around a bit. A scan of the reverse of the work is in the Appendix, for those interested in that. Resources 1Beowulf. Seamus Heaney, trans. Norton & Co.: NY. 2000. 2Old English Translator. http://www.oldenglishtranslator.co.uk/ 3Images of a reproduction of the Bayeux Tapestry. hastings1066.com 4A Clerk of Oxford. “Psalm Translations: O God, Thou Art My God.” On A Clerk of Oxford blog. http://aclerkofoxford.blogspot.com/2013/03/psalmtranslationsogodthouartmygod.html 5Historical Needwork Resources. “AngloSaxon Embroidery.” http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_england_anglo_saxon.html 6Jill Ivy. Embroideries at Durham Cathedral. Robert Attey and Sons: Sunderland, England, 1992.