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is perhaps the most quintessentially Japanese thing that visitors to Japan can try. The water passes through several rock layers and contains many minerals believed to have special healing powers. The smell alone will tell you that the water is sulphurous. Most of the thirty or so sources, with the exception of the “Kuma no Te” (Bear’s Paw) bathhouse, range from forty to a scalding ninety degrees Centigrade. Such high temperatures allow the cook-ing of food, so you can see locals using the water to boil eggs and cook sweet buns called “manju”. The first bathhouse was built for a visiting samurai warlord in the Middle Ages. The construction resulted in a set of rules on how to manage the hot springs that are still in use today. They include the banning of boring for onsen water and using only natural springs, not water that is artificially heated. There are thirteen free public bathhouses at Nozawa Onsen, and we recommend trying all of them. Like a pub crawl, many visitors enjoy an onsen crawl or “hashigo” as it is called in Japanese.

The development of Nozawa as an onsen town is directly reflected in the overwhelmingly Japanese frontage of the buildings lining the narrow walkable streets in the village. Unlike other ski areas in Japan, the existence of a four-season onsen-based tourist trade has counteracted the overwhelmingly Euro-pean influence of skiing, allowing Nozawa to retain a welcoming and nostalgic Japanese atmosphere. We strongly recommend strolling through the streets in the evenings, past the

t’s a great question, because if you looked at a world map, you would find Nozawa Onsen at about the

same latitude as Algeria or Tunisia in North Africa, places known for hot and dry, not cold and snowy. The answer is that a combination of cold weather blows down from the Siberian hinter-lands and the Arctic Sea, picks up mois-ture over the Sea of Japan, and then suddenly hits the mountains in Nagano, resulting in huge snowfall. As the crow flies, Nozawa Onsen is just over 30km from the coast, and is perfectly placed to take advantage of this phenomenon. Nozawa’s neighbour, Sakae-mura, holds the record for the deepest snow in any inhabited part of Japan. The snow depth there hit an incredible 7.85m on Febru-ary 12, 1945. That was measured right by the train station!

Nozawa Onsen has a rich history that extends back long before anyone took to the slopes to ski. Legend has it that the village was founded by a Buddhist monk in 724 AD. According to that story, the monk discovered the natural hot springs flowing underneath the village. Another legend says that a wounded bear revealed the hot springs to a hunter. Archeological digs have found ruins of dwellings and pottery that point to settlements dating back some 3,000 years. Whatever did happen, the hot springs at Nozawa emerge at ground level, which means they would not have been difficult to locate or to put to use. The “Onsen” in Nozawa Onsen is the Japanese word for natural hot-spring. Communal bathing with total strangers

Welcome to Nozawa Onsen, deep in the heart of Japan’s snow country. A common question from first-time visitors is “Why does it snow so much?”

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table at many restaurants and lodges in the village. Do give them a try. If you have ever wondered what snow-bound people used to eat in the days before supermarkets and trucking and food miles, the answer is right there!

open fronts of the souvenir shops and the illuminated facades of the ryokan and bathhouses like O-yu. The roads are heated, so you won’t have to trudge through snow.

Skiing was introduced to Nozawa Onsen 101 years ago, making this area the birthplace of skiing in Japan. The ski club was formed in the village in 1923. In 1930, Hannes Schneider arrived from the Austrian alpine village of St. Anton and further developed Nozawa’s ski culture by teaching the Arberg skiing technique. Schneider is still talked about in awe in Nozawa Onsen and has one of the best runs at the resort named after him. St. Anton is the sister resort to Nozawa and both villages maintain friendly relations, including year skiing exchanges by local students. You can find out more details in a visit to the Japan Ski Museum in the center of Nozawa itself.Mt. Kenashi rises to an altitude of just

1,650 meters, giving you more oxygen, less UV, and far less chance of altitude sickness than many European resorts. With the abundant hot springs, it should come as no surprise that the mountain is an old volcano. The other non-surprise is that the resort uses exclu-sively natural snow and does not have snow-making. The first ski lift was erected at Nozawa in 1950. It was amazingly strung together by wooden towers. Hikage, the first of the two

gondolas was built in 1979. The longer Nagasaka stand-up gondola was added in 1990. Along with the two gondolas, four quads, three triples, and nine pairs service a vast area, with the additional “Yu-Road” moving walkway saving your legs en route from the O-yu side of the village to the Hikage gondola. The ski area offers over 1,000 meters of leg-burning vertical with runs to match all levels. If you are on a slope that’s too hard or too easy, just check the course map and try somewhere else.

The biathlon (combined cross-country skiing and shooting) events were held in the village. You can see reminders in the large manhole covers decorating the village’s streets.

We’ll finish by bringing your attention to the undoubted taste of Nozawa, Nozawa-na pickles. Nozawa-na is a brassica (cabbage family) leafy vegeta-ble introduced into the region from Kansai. Its leaves and stalks are eaten almost exclusively as pickles in two forms, “asa-zuke”, a lighter, bright green pickle kept in brine and sold pretty much throughout Japan, and “hon-zuke”, the saltier, dull-coloured pickle which keeps far longer and you’ll only authentically find in Nozawa itself. Locals make huge amounts of hon-zuke using the onsen water and you’ll see a pot of complementary pickles on the

The resort is located on Mt. Kenashi, which despite all the trees means “Mt. Hair-less” or perhaps “Mt. Bald”.

Nozawa Onsen came to international attention as one of the hosts of the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics.

DON’T MISS

Dec 31st

New Year CountdownHead to the Hikage slopes for an evening of night skiing until 11:30pm. Then get ready for the countdown to 2013. Fireworks will bring in the New Year.

Jan 5th & March 16th

Smile Winter FestivalGive thanks to winter with Japanese “taiko” drummers, free sake and a paper, scissors, rock competition. Located in the onsen area of O-yu Street.

Jan 15th

Nozawa Onsen Fire FestivalThis is one of the biggest fire festivals held in Japan. Watch the 25 and 42 year old village members do battle before the sacred pavilion. See page 10 for more details.

March 2nd

Winter Light FestivalAn exciting night of fireworks, sacred lanterns and torch light skiing, make it an evening to remember. At Hikage Slopes from 19:00.

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NozawaOlympics

s we all know, Nozawa Onsen now sees an increasing number of international

visitors every year, attracting increasing attention in overseas media. Given this development, it is somewhat ironic that Nozawa’s biggest turn in the international spotlight came back in February 1998 when the town hosted the biathlon events at the 1998 Winter Olympics. Back in those days, no significant number of foreign skiers came to ski in Japan. As we now know, 1991 also marked the peak of skiing’s popularity in Japan, so that skier numbers were already in steady decline by the time the games were held.

The snappy slogan chosen for Nagano 1998 was “Games from the Heart - Together with Love”. In a break with protocol, many competi-tors eschewed the Olympic Village in Nagano City and chose to stay in lodges in Nozawa, giving local people far more access to the teams than would normally occur. Thanks to herculean efforts by volunteers, weather-based problems were overcome resulting in a successful Olympics with large Japa-nese crowds. The past fifteen years have not been kind to the ski indus-try in Japan, and Japan’s ageing and declining population suggest that recovery will not be easy. Looking back now, the 1998 Nagano Games look increasingly like a zenith for technical, resort-based alpine skiing in Japan. If there is a future, it will be in so-called freestyle and freerid-ing, both on skis and snowboards. That’s where we think the gold lies in them thar hills.

MonkeyBusiness

ost monkeys are happy swinging in the trees of tropical jungles, but not here in

Nagano. For our monkeys, there’s nothing like soaking in a hot bath to ease their troubles away. One look at them relaxing in the tub, and it’s you who’ll be singing “Oobee doo! I wanna be like you!”

Japan’s best known monkeys though have taken residence in Jigokudani, or “Hell’s Valley”, a volcanic spring in the Shiga Kogen area. Two groups were observed coming to bathe in a small hole that filled with hot spring water. This inspired locals to build a proper bath for the monkeys and in 1964, the monkey park was born. One troupe settled in the park, and can be seen year round, though peak viewing comes in winter when the numbers swell, the monkeys spend longer in the water, and the young can be seen playing in the snow. The park is great for kids and a massive draw to photographers who can take memorable shots without waiting for hours or using big zoom lenses. Once out the tub, you can see how wiry they are under their fur. It’s quite a transformation.

Trips run every day from Nozawa Onsen to the Jigokudani Park. It takes about one hour to get there and once at the park, it’s about a twenty-minute walk along an often icy trail through the woods. Choose your footwear accordingly, and don’t forget your camera!

Tours to the snowmonkeys can be booked by Nozawa Onsen Kotsu. (see page 25)

Living it up in Nagasaka

ast year there was a buzz in the previously quiet Nagasaka area of Nozawa Ski Resort.

Those who skied by on their way to Nagasaka Gondola, or walked up hill from the center of the village, discovered a modestly named café and pub called The Craft Room. There was nothing modest about the beer menu at this craft beer bar, though. The selection includes a variety of fine-crafted beers from North America and Japan, mostly in bottles, a few on tap. Their selection changes so there is always some-thing new to keep hopheads happy. This season The Craft Room intro-duces a selection of Nozawa inspired beers such as the festive Dosojin IPA, the deep flavored Powder Keg Porter, and the easy-drinking Nozawa Springs Summer Ale. This ski-in / ski-out craft beer bar and café is also the place on the mountain for premium coffee. There are weekly parties, and a few large events, including the popular Snow Splash events (tickets required). This season, just a few steps away, a luxury accommodation called First Tracks Nozawa opens its doors. This ski-in/out family lodge is true to its name and has the most convenient access to the Nagasaka Gondola. There are huge living spaces with separate dining and living, fire, separate cinema room, double kitchen with plenty of room for families and groups. 22 beds in luxury comfort. Warm separate tatami room under floor heating gives the home a wonderful even warmth.

The Craft Room: www.craftroom.jpFirst Tracks Nozawa: www.firsttracksnozawa.com

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Some say the world will end in fire,Some say in ice.

From what I've tasted of desireI hold with those who favor fire.

But if it had to perish twice,I think I know enough of hateTo say that for destruction ice

Is also greatAnd would suffice

Robert FrostMarch 26, 1874 – January 29, 1963

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ozawa Onsen is no stranger to ice and deep snow but fire?

In Japan, men aged 25 or 42 are believed to be vulnerable to bad luck and every year on January 15th the village’s 25 year old literally beat off baying locals trying to set fire to a 3 story pavilion with the village’s 42 year olds on top. Sounds like bad luck alright!

After summer has slipped away and the village seems relatively peaceful without the hordes of tourists. The locals who will be 25 on January 15 start the long process of venturing into the local

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forests to collect firewood for the coming winter season’s Fire Festival or Dosojin as it is called in Japanese. Not just any old wood can be used, the trees selected need to be a certain diameter and over 18 meters in height. Before the trees are logged the villagers head down into the forests and pray for the mountain gods for protection and safety against any mis-happenings. Sake, white rice are offered on the “altar” while the 25 year olds all pray together for self purification rites.

The first Nozawa Onsen fire festival began in 1863 as a means of praying for a plentiful harvest, health and good luck in the coming year. It is one of the three grandest fire festivals in Japan and the only of the three to be held in deep mid winter. Sometimes this can cause a problem when heavy snow falls during the days preceding and on the day itself can render the firewood wet and very difficult to be lit.

Two days before the festival gets underway the 25 and 42 year olds are called for again to drag the now

“sacred” logs down through the village from Hiakge Ski area to the fire festival site. Japanese sake is offered by the local villagers along the route to the workers as well as passers by. In fact Japanese sake is used a lot in the fire festival for mainly two reasons one being the purification of the tress as well as getting drunk. They both sound great!

When all the logs are at the festival site the construction begins. This commences on the morning of the 14th and

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continued sometimes through the night and finished on the morning of the 15th. Due to the dangerous work, during construction the builders must refrain from drinking any alcohol – a good reason to give their liver a rest. A pavilion is made about seven meters high with the trees protruding about another ten meters or so. The pavilion needs to be sturdy as this will hold the 42 year olds.

On the day of the festival the flame is lit by the Kono family at Terayu Onsen and then brought down to the festival site. The battles start at 8.30 with the torch bearers attacking the pavilion. The 25 year olds have to fight off these and defend the lower part.

The fighting is intense and dangerous for all those involved. But in the end inevitably the torch bearers win and the whole pavilion goes up in flames.

We hope you can enjopy the fire festival while you are in Nozawa. If you missed it not too worry it will be on again next year!

INFORMATION CENTERS

The Nozawa Onsen Tourism Association is located in the center of the village. MAP-D-4 It carries local tourist brochures and maps in your local language as well as having English speaking staff on hand to help out with various inquires. They can also book, evening snow shoe tours, snow cat tours and Japanese cooking experience programs. Nozawa Onsen Tourism Association 0269-85-3155

GETTING AROUNDGetting around in the evening is easy because everything is within walking distance.

Even though the main roads are heated, please take care when walking on the roads. Because of the amount of snow, be careful of snow falling from roofs. Many people are seriously injured from this every year in Japan. As cool as it may look please do not ski or snowboard on the road.

Ski Shuttle BusesSki Shuttle Buses are available for Madarao and Togari Ski Areas. These buses leave the Chuo Bus Terminal at 9:56 and the return buses get back to Nozawa at either 14:06 or 17:11. The buses need to be booked in advance before 5:00pm the day before you would like to go. Bookings 0269-85-3166

TaxisNozawa Onsen is served by local taxi Nozawa Onsen Kotsu. They are located on the street level of Gasthof Schi- Heil. They can organize taxis for Snow Monkey tours, various day tours, airport transfers and ski area pick up and drop offs.Nozawa Onsen Kotsu 0269-85-3333

ONWARD TRAVEL

Nagano Snow ShuttleNagano Snow Shuttle (0261-75-5360) offer a reliable direct bus service with plenty of luggage and leg space to both Tokyo City and Narita Airport. Buses leave daily from Chuo bus terminal at 10:30am and arrive Tokyo 15:00 & Narita Airport 17:00. Bookings can be made online, through your accommodation or by phone. The one way trip is 9,900yen for adults and 7,500yen for children.

New for the 2012-2013 season is the daily inter resort service to Hakuba and Shiga Kogen. The buses are timed to run in the morning so you can still enjoy a full day on the slopes at your destination. Shuttles leave Chuo bus terminal at 7:30am and arrive at Hakuba and Shiga Kogen at 9:30am.

Buses run from December 20 to March 10.www.NaganoSnowShuttle.com

Public TransportRegular bus services are available between Nozawa Onsen and Nagano City. They depart from the Chuo Bus Termi-nal. Connections to Shinkansen trains can be made in Nagano City. Nozawa to Nagano 09:17, 11:12, 12:37, 13:57, 15:37, 16:47Nagano to Nozawa 09:30, 10:30, 11:15, 13:35, 15:05, 16:10One way fare is 1400yen

Luggage Delivery ServiceYour luggage can be delivered in advance between the airports and your accommodation. It usually takes two days. Your hotel should be able to arrange this for you. Expect to pay about 2,000yen per luggage.

MEDICAL SERVICES

ClinicNozawa Onsen doesn’t have a hospital, the nearest is in Iiyama about 20 minutes away.

Most on mountain ski accident patients are taken to Nozawa Clinic. (0269-85-2010) (MAPG-4). Credit cards are accepted. For more serious cases, Nozawa Clinic will arrange ambulance services to nearby hospitals.

PharmacyBasic medicine, headache & muscle pain relief can be bought over the counter at Kono Pharmacy (MAP F-4).

COMMUNICATIONS

TelephonesCell phones need to be 3G to work in Japan. Domestic calls can be made from the green public phones. International calls can be made from the grey ones.

MoneyATMs which take most international cards are available at post offices and 7/11 convenience stores throughout Japan.

Post OfficesThe post office in Nozawa Onsen, is located near to Juodo-no-yu onsen. The post office is open from Monday to Friday 09:00 to 17:00.

ATM Operating Hours are Monday to Friday 08:45 to 18:00, Saturday 09:00 to 17:00 and Sunday 09:00 to 14:00.

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The Ridge Nozawa

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T he classic local food in Nagano is soba, thin brown noodles made of buckwheat, a crop grown locally. Buckwheat has distinctive yellow or white flowers and grows quickly, allowing two harvests a year even in Hakuba where the fields spend

much time under snow. Soba noodles can be eaten hot in a warming fish broth flavoured with bonito or cold on a tray with a stronger soy-based dipping sauce. Typical accompaniments include spring onion, wasabi radish, ground sesame seeds, tempura prawns and vegetables, wild mushrooms, and thin slices of fried tofu. Soba noodles are filling enough to be a meal in themselves. The lack of gluten in buckwheat makes the kneading of the flour into noodles a rare art, and means the best soba restaurants still prepare their noodles by hand. At around 18%, buckwheat is very high in protein and can be eaten by even the most health-conscious. For the rest of us though, the temptation to pair it with tempura is hard to resist.

N ozawana are pickled Japanese vegetables named after Nozawa Onsen. The story goes that because of the ideal waters surround-ing the village, many of the first ski tourist will so impressed with the taste that the nickname Nozawana was born. Many Japanese

visitors to Nozawa Onsen will buy multiple packs, take them back home and give them to their friends as gifts. Many restaurants in Nozawa will offer side dishes of Nozawana.

rewed since 1906 in nearby Iiyama City Mizuo Sake is made from natural spring water that is found abundantly

in the region. This is distilled with locally grown rice to produce one of the finest sakes in Japan.

There are three to choose from:

Green – popular with the locals, great hot or cold. A little dry.Blue – A fuller flavor, great compliment to dinner.Red – Editors favorite! Savor not only the taste but also the aroma.

Ask for it by name in the hotel, restaurants and bars. The large bottles also make some great souvenirs to take back home.

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ntil the arrival of the Black Ships that opened Japan to the world in 1853, beef was not consumed in this country. It is therefore remarkable that two signatory dishes in Japanese cuisine, shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, are centered on wagyu, or

domestically-produced beef. The former involves swirling paper-thin slices of beef in a hotpot before dipping in one of two contrasting sauces, a light citrus/soy combination called ponzu and a heavy cream made of ground sesame. For sukiyaki, the meat is sliced slightly thicker and stewed with vegetables in soy sauce, sugar and sweet-ened rice wine. The dipping sauce for sukiyaki is a beaten raw egg. Both dishes make full use of the principal character of Japanese beef, its melt in the mouth tenderness. This comes from the extensive marbling of fat, sometimes credited to feeding regimes that include beer and regu-lar massaging of the cows. Wagyu is not limited to Japanese dishes however, and the meat produces excellent steak that can be enjoyed in some of the restaurants and hotels around Nozawa. All that marbling means it may well be the juiciest, tenderest steak you’ve ever eaten. Compared to New York-style steaks, wagyu usually comes in small cuts, but we think the richness of the meat will make up for that and more. Be sure to give it a try!

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apanese people retain a strong sense of seasonality regarding food. The limited insulation of many Japanese homes may be a

factor, but the most popular winter dishes are all foods that will really warm you up! Top of the pile are nabe hotpot dishes, which come in infinite varieties but all involve throwing ingredients into a communal crockpot heated at the table using a portable stove. It’s a great way to eat with friends! Another classic winter warmer for those out and about is raamen, the Japanese take on Chinese noodles where the use of pork, chicken stock, and miso paste makes for a heartier dish and more creative varia-tions than with soba noodles. Miso also finds its way into a classic Japanese winter soul food, a pork and vegetable-

heavy form of miso soup called tonjiru.

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07:00 Rise and Slide

After a good night’s sleep it’s an early start for a day of excitement in Nozawa.

07:30Warm Up

What better way to start the day then a morning onsen. The soothing mineral laden water will warm those tired muscles and get you ready for a day on the mountains. All 13 public onsens open at 05:00 am.

08:00Up Up and Away

Yu road is a moving walkway nearly 300m long. It will get you up to Hikage Base area in no time at all. From here it is a ride in Hikage Gondola, then click in and explore.

10:00Get back to Nature

For those wanting a more sedate pace, why not join a snow shoe tour through the forests. The tour lasts 4 hours and is a great way to become one with nature. Look out for a kamoshika, a kind of Japa-nese mountain goat. Tours can be booked at Nozawa Onsen Tourism Association

11:00 Coffee Time.

Enjoy a morning coffee on the slopes at Sasa on Paradise slopes. Is this the best coffee in Nozawa?

12:30Hungry?

Katsu Curry time! Japanese ski resort staple of pork cutlet on

a bed of curry and rice. No better food to fill you up and get your energy back for more fun on the slopes.

14:30Snowcat

Explore the snowfield in a snow cat. The tracked vehicles depart six times at day from Yunomine rest house at the top of Hikage Gondola. Only 1,500yen which includes the Hikage gondola ride for non-skiers and a free soft drink. Tours can be booked at Nozawa Onsen Tourism Association.

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16:30Relax

After all the exhiliratiuons of the day it is time to give your body a well-earned rest. Book a relaxing massage treatment at Mirac at Ryokan Sakaya. Prices start from 3,500yen.(Tel 0269-85-3118)

19:00Under the Stars

Make sure you get wrapped up for an evening of snow shoeing. Tours are for 2 hours and can be booked at Nozawa Tourism Association

20:00Dine in Style

With so many restaurants it is difficult to choose one, but you can’t go wrong with dinner at Himatsuri Restau-rant. Kaiseki is Japanese style course menu. Book in advance for Nagano Wagyu premium beef . (Tel:0269-85-1230)

22:00Karaoke

You haven’t been to Japan if you haven’t sung Karaoke. Did

you know that karaoke means empty orchestra? Karaoke is available at Himecho and Bar Heaven.

22.45One more dip?

The public onsens in Nozawa close at 11:00pm. A late night bathe will put you in the right mind for sweet dreamings of all the powder you will ski or ride tomorrow.

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Name – Luke Pignatt, Nozawa Holidays

When and how did you come to Nozawa? I was first introduced to Nozawa Onsen by my friend, Mark Baumann. We had worked together previously and skied together in Niseko. He was interested in starting up Lodge Nagano and asked if I could help. I couldn't say no! That was in 2006 when the Japanese ski industry was in a slump. I came to the village to look around in autumn before our first season, and knew the minute I saw the town that I would love it here.

What made you decide to set up business?Nozawa at the time was a mountain town with all the facilities of a great ski resort but with very few actual skiers! The village itself was a charming little farming town, with great food, winding little streets, steaming hot springs and friendly locals. That was a formula that we knew would be well received by those who were not only looking for great powder, but a real Japanese experience to combine it with.

How have you seen Nozawa change?Thankfully it hasn't changed all that much. It still is largely as we found it. The slopes are busier but the same old friendly faces run the lifts, bars, and restaurants. You can see some new bars and restaurants trading in town now that wouldn't have survived before, and some older businesses that have expanded to cope with the extra demand that foreign guests have brought to the village. English menus are available almost everywhere now and more of the locals are speaking English than I remember! What do you enjoy the most about living in Nozawa?The hot springs are very hard to top: at the end of a long day on the slopes or shoveling snow it is amazing to be able to take a stroll to one of the many free public baths, and unwind. But perhaps the best thing is that Nozawa has an amazing sense of community. It really is a small town where everyone knows one another. The locals are never far away when you need a hand, or some advice, and everything from pickles, rice, and cabbages to bottles of sake are always being brought around.

What do you see for the future of Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort?Nozawa is going from strength to strength. Not only is there

much more interest from foreign guests in Nozawa, but Japa-nese skiers are coming back to the mountains. The free-style ski movement has had a big effect making skiing cool again, and some of the best free-skiers in the world are locals. People are also discovering that summers in the mountains are amazing. There are downhill mountain bike races, festivals, hiking, camping, fishing and swimming. And it is great to get out of the Japanese metropolises when the heat is on! People are now taking a greater interest in the moun-tains and Nozawa has a bright future, as it is a truly beautiful place all year round.

Do you ski or snowboard?I originally could only snow board but since arriving in Nozawa I had to learn to ski- my local friends insisted! Nozawa is, after all, one of the oldest ski resorts in Japan, and some of the best skiers in the country live here. I can’t say which I prefer now as I spend a lot of time on both. How do you ski/board powder? As fast and bouncy as possible! There is nothing like the fluffy Japanese Pow to put a smile on your dial- until you have to walk your way out chest deep! My earliest experiences of the snow in Japan helped me realize that you need to plan your decent, can never have too much speed when it is deep.

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Name – Masayuki Ueno, Nozawa Onsen Ski Area

Are you a skier or snowboarder?Skier. I used to race until I was 26. I have only snowboarded twice.

Where is the best snow to be found on the mountain?I’m not telling you where my secret powder stash is…but I really enjoy getting up to Yama-biko in the early mornings for the deep stuff.

Where is the best food to be had on the mountain?Yamabiko again! The pizza there is great. The fried rice is pretty good too.

Have you ever skied overseas?Yes, I have been to Nozawa Onsen’s sister resort, St. Anton in Austria for inspecting how the ski area is managed. It was a

really good experience and we have implemented some of those ideas here at Nozawa.

What is your favorite Onsen?Kumanotearayu Onsen. It’s not as hot as some of the others so I can stay in the water for a much longer time. This is the onsen that was discovered by a bear, or so the legend goes.

We hear that you have to do many different jobs for the resort. Are you Naski?No, no, no. In fact I don’t know who is inside Naski but I think it would be ok as it looks like a warm suit.

What do you do in the evenings?I like to relax in one of the resort’s bars. My favorite drink is Asahi Super Dry.

What is your dream?To be able to ski powder with my kids.

How do you ski powder?You need to book some ski lessons.

While the water you can see flowing from the mouth of the lion appears clear and colorless, the water in the

bathtub is slightly milky.

Shinden-no-yu Bathhouse

It is said that hot water at thisbathhouse is especially good for cuts, burns, and boils. The water here has a

slightly greenish transparent hue.

Kamitera-yu Bathhouse

There is a communal laundry behind this bathhouse building. This Soto-yu is

much loved by locals.

Asagama-no-yu Bathhouse

An old bathhouse said to have been discovered by a bear. It is said that

Nozawa-onsen originated in this place, which according to legend was shown

to a hunter by an injured bear.

Kumanotearayu Bathhouse

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This massive bathhouse is the largest of Nozawa-onsen’s Soto-yu. The communal

bathhouse is in a building constructed in a temple style.

Nakao-no-yuBathhouse

Located in the center of the town, the O-yu bathhouse—the symbol of Nozawa-onsen—is the largest and grandest bathhouse building among the Soto-yu. This is a must-try bathhouse for visitors to Nozawa-onsen.

O-yuBathhouse

While the foundbuilding is st

bathroom insidstyle of a temp

nice atmos

Matsuba-Bathho

With its traditional style building, this public bathhouse has a relaxing atmosphere. The water at this bathhouse is good for those recovering from serious illnesses.

Taki-no-yu Bathhouse

This Soto-yu is a somewhat modern western style building. The first floor is

for women and the second flooris for men.

Juodo-no-yu Bathhouse

This public bathhouse is located near the entrance to Tsutsujiyama Park,

at the north end of town. People say that the water here is good for

diseases cured by warming.

Shin-yu Bathhouse

This bathhouse is located in the basement of a building below the Yokochi traffic lights, and the stone wall of the building serves as a landmark. The water at this bathhouse

is especially good for skin diseases.

Yokochi-no-yu Bathhouse

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This bathhouse is located a bit away short distance from the center of the Onsen district. The floor of the bathtub is tiled, and the slightly milky hot water

here is constantly replaced as it flows from the spring.

Akiha-no-yuBathhouse

Though small, this bathhouse has a typical bathhouse style

building with a traditional atmosphere. The water here is said to be good for skin

diseases. The water isvery hot.

Kawahara-yuBathhouse

ndation of the stone, theside is in themple, with aosphere.

a-no-yuhouse

http://nozawaski.com0269-85-3166

101 Years of Skiing

ozawa Onsen Snow Resort is often called the birthplace of skiing

in Japan with a history stretching back 101 years this winter season. It has a total of 21 lifts and over 40km of trails. Nozawa offers skiers and riders a leg burn-ing thousand meters plus of top to bottom skiing with some fantastic views over the Nagano plain.

OrientationThe resort has three base areas that are located above the village.

1. KurasawaThis is mainly used by car access and is the closest base to the entry of the village. There are some easy gentle runs that you can take to get to one of the gondolas.

rants here. From Yamabiko, which means Echo Mountain, you can take a couple of lifts to the top of Nozawa Onsen. Mt. Kenashi or as we like to call it Mt. Bald, at 1650m, is home to a radio tower that is sometimes so frozen over, it looks like it should be located at the South Pole as an Antarctic weather station!

2.NagasakaThis is home to the longer of the two gondolas. The cabins fit 12 persons and will get you to Yamabiko area in about 15-20 minutes includ-ing turning 90 degrees half way up! 3. HikageGetting to the Hikage from the main accommodation areas is a great experience. The Yu-Road, which is a long uphill conveyor belt takes you to the Hikage base area. Here you will find, ski school, tourist information, restau-rants and most importantly the Hikage Gondola.

The gondolas rise to both Paradise and Yamabiko slopes and these could be classed as mid-mountain. There are a host of restau-

From the top there are few courses that require you to be an intermediate or higher skier or rider.

Beginners There are some great long runs for beginners who have mastered the art of linking turns together. Head up

Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort Japan’s Finest Ski Area

A popular event is the Best Shot Rally. Three different places will have a large red camera sign. Take a photo with your digital camera and bring it to the Nagasaka or Hikage information centers to claim a free gift. But hurry the gifts are limited to 10 per day.

BEST SHOTRALLY

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either Hikage or Nagasaka gondolas to Yamabiko. From here it is a long cruis-ing 8km course back down along Paradise and Rinkan forest course. As a rule, this kind of cat track is more suited to skiers than snow-boarders. For those wanting ski school, the office is located in Hikage Informa-tion Center.

IntermediatesAn intermediate favorite is Skyline, which is located on the right side of the resort as you look up. The course is well groomed, but can be narrow in places with bumps usually forming in the afternoon. Take the left course at the bottom of Skyline to Karasawa from there you can ride the Nagasaka Gondola –Link Chair which as you can guess gives you the height to get back to Nagasaka Gondola.

AdvancedTry your hand at the Schneider course named after the

Gondola is Kurokura, this is steep and deep after a snow-fall. For real “double black” skiing turn right at the bottom of Skyline onto Grandprix for 800m of white knuckle riding.

KidsFor kids, there is a day care nursery that can be found on the second floor at Hikage information center. It is called Yumin Nursery and is available for little ones from ages one to six. A full day is 4000 yen and half day will set you back 2500 yen or you could drop the kids off for just an hour, 1000 yen, as you hit the powder. There

famed Hannes Schneider who developed the Arlberg style of skiing that was used from the early days until carving skis made the style obsolete in the 1990s. Be careful though as the course gets full of big moguls after a few days without snow. Another challenge is the aptly named Challenge Course just

below Paradise Slope. It is the steepest course at Nozawa Onsen with a maximum gradient of 39 degree! Because of this gradient it is a dedicated FIS registered racing course and therefore very popular with carvers. Again it can get chopped up quickly, so get

there early.

Powder HoundsFirst come, first served is the motto. The area at the top of the mountain can sometimes get over one meter of fresh snow overnight. When it is this deep, do not venture off the trail. Below the right hand turn on the Nagasaka

is a limit to 20 kids.

In front of Hikage base is a fun kids park with bouncing castle, tubing, and sledding. If you are lucky Naski the green character might make an appearance. Naski is a pickled vegetable found in Nozawa. If by chance you are at Nagasaka and need to get the little ones up to Hikage, don’t worry, there is a special snow mobile lift that the kids will love.

Non-skiers can join a snow-shoe tour at the resort and slip away and take in the wonderful views from the quiet of the forest. You

Lifts 21Courses 46Elevation 1085mBeginner 40Intermediate 30Advanced 30

Longest course:Paradise 5000m http://nozawaski.com0269-85-3166

FAST FACTS

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might be able to see a kamoshika, a kind of Japanese mountain goat. Book at the ski school or at the village

once it gets dark, so wrap up well. The restaurants stay open, so you could always pop inside for a hot chocolate.

skiing on Saturday evenings and peak times including, New Year and national holidays. The temperature does drop

visitor information center.

Night SkiingNozawa Onsen offers night

March 2nd 2012There is something magical about snow when it is lit up. Enjoy a fantastic evening at Hikage slopes. Sacred lanterns, fireworks and skiers skiing down with fire torches will make it a night to remember.

Winter NightLight Festival

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