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Throwing a

BasicBowl

14 PotteryMaking Illustrated • November/December 2004

1 Bring the clay up and down in a

cone shape as part of the center-

ing process.

2 After centering, form the clay

into a mound approximately the

size of the foot of the bowl that

you’re throwing.

3 Use your fingers or thumbs to

open the center of this ball of

clay, pressing down until the bowl

achieves the required depth and

bottom thickness.

Throwing a

BasicBowlStep-by-step

illustrations andcreative inspirationfor throwing the bowl form.by Mel Jacobson

The most basic of thrownforms is the bowl. All pot-ters make bowls, andalmost all love to make

them. Bowls can be open or closed,tall or short. There are severalimportant things to consider whenyou begin making bowls. But firstand foremost is its use. Is it a soup

bowl? A salad bowl? A servingbowl? Customers also categorizebowls, looking for specific bowlswhen they shop.

Developing Your DesignIn most cases, it is helpful to

sketch a form before starting tothrow. This will help you to develop

a graceful profile design for yourbowls. The rim structure or how thepot concludes is very important.The foot ring and how it sits on atable are also essential to a well-designed bowl. Serving bowlsalmost always have foot rings,while casual bowls, cereal anddessert bowls often have a flat base.

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A broad, tall, well-designed foot ring

will lift the pot off the table, andwithout question,provide insulationagainst heatabsorbing into afine table. A large,

deep foot ring alsocan aid the potter

during the glazingprocess. It becomes a

perfect place to grip the

pot when dipping intoglaze. Flat-footed, broad

bowls are more difficult toglaze, as there is no place to grip.

Forming the BowlLike most items we throw, a bowl

starts with pulling a simple cylinder.If you’re planning a foot ring, besure to leave about an inch of clay atthe base.

The next thing to consider is the

sweep or profile of the bowl. If itgets too wide it can sag, so startwith a gentle curve. Keep a solidstructure with a thickness of 1 inchat the base, 1 ⁄ 2 inch at the bottomcurve and 1 ⁄ 4 inch from the belly tothe rim. It usually takes about threepulls for a beginning potter to reachthis stage.

When centering, opening andbeginning to pull the clay, it’s a goodidea to cut away the clay thatalways seems to remain near thefoot of the pot against the bat. Asolid wooden stick, cut at a 45˚anglewith a sharpened edge, can aid youin getting this extra clay away fromthe base of the pot. By cutting awaythis surplus clay, you’ll make roomto fit your right index finger underthe thicker base and lift that clayinto the body as you continue tothrow. There are other tools and

methods that can be used to trim

this clay, but the stout, sharpenedstick will work fast and cut in as

deep as you want.Next, with your structure in mind,

begin to thin the walls and deter-mine the profile of the bowl. If thelower part of the wall structure gets

too thin it will collapse or warpwhile throwing, so keep the base

compacted and sturdy as you formthe bowl. With each pull, thin thepot and shape it at the same time.Apply pressure with your fingersinside to give the bowl its shape.

November/December 2004 • PotteryMaking Illustrated 15

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16 PotteryMaking Illustrated • November/December 2004

7 Use a tool to remove excess

clay from the base. Shown is the

proper position relative to the

clay and the bat.

8 Once the extra clay is removed,

work your fingers under the clay

to pull it into the wall of the pot.

9 During the last pull, complete

the profile of the bowl and estab-

lish the rim.

A Profile of the bowl after the first pull of clay into

the wall of the bowl. B The clay at the rim is com-

pacted and formed to fit the final profile.

C A wooden tool removes the extra clay from the

outside of the base. D The foot ring is shown in rela-

tion to the bottom of the bowl.

4 Pull the clay out to form the

base of the bowl then up into the

wall in one motion.

5 Next, pull the clay further up

and start to establish the profile

of the bowl.

6 Apply pressure between your

fingers to continue thinning the

wall and shaping the bowl.

A C DB

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November/December 2004 • PotteryMaking Illustrated 17

Applying pressure with your fingerson the outside of the bowl will thinand maintain the wall’s thicknessand consistency.

It isn’t necessary to use a rib onthe inside or outside when throwing

bowls; your hands are all you need.A rib can be used if you want asmooth surface for your particularstyle or for your type of decoration.

Finally, when you get to the rim, asponge, a piece of chamois or anoth-

er appropriate tool of your choicecan be used to finish the pot. Theprofile and size of the rim are veryimportant. A thin rim can bechipped or broken easier than athicker rim, and the size of the rimalso contributes to the overall designand balance of the pot.

Develop a RhythmRhythm is extremely important in

throwing a bowl. How fast thewheel turns, how much pressure youapply and how quickly you pull theclay change the rhythm. With prac-tice, every potter can establish a con-stant and comfortable speed andmaintain a proper pull rhythm. Itdoesn’t matter as much what speedyou use, but being consistent with

your throwing speed and under-standing why you throw at a partic-ular speed is important. Too fast andthe pot warps and falls, too slowand the clay absorbs more water,becomes soft and will not hold its

shape. Find the most comfortablespeed for you, and through practice,perfect your throwing technique.

As you become more comfortablewith simple bowl shapes, stay on thelook-out for ideas for new and bet-ter forms. Bowls are simple thingsthat have been made for thousands

of years. Indeed, because they havestood the test of time, classic shapesand forms are still the best to study.Keeping your forms simple and yourdesigns elegant will make you a rich-er potter both in your design skillsand your bowls’ sales appeal. •

Mel Jacobson is an educator and

potter residing in Minnetonka,Minnesota. Mel is the moderator of clayart, ([email protected]) ,and is very active in the ceramicscommunity. He can be reached bye-mail at [email protected].

10 Finish the rim using a sponge

or other appropriate material.

“Performance of our Paragon

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www.paragonweb.com

[email protected]

Viking-28• 12-sided, 28” wide x 29” deep

interior

• Cone 10

• Sectional for easy moving

• Drop-down box opens forwardon a bottom hinge

• Spring counter-balance lid

• Top row of blank 2” highfirebrick, which is easy toreplace if damaged

• Orton’s Sentry digital controller

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