Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Venue Guide

Suggested Crags:

Buttress Alt. Faces Parking Approach & Est. Time

Carreg Wastad SH625 571 275m SW SH624 558, 9miles, 17min NW, 110m, 0.4km, 15min

Excellent multi-pitch climbs (VD to E4): Crackstone Rib(S), Skylon(HS), Shadow Wall(VS), Ribstone Crack(VS), Overhanging

Chimney(VS), Yellow Crack(HVS), Old Holborn(E1), Zangorilla(E4).

Dinas Cromlech SH629 569 350m SW SH627 567, 9.5miles, 17min NE, 200m, 0.4km, 25m

High, mighty and imposing – home to some sought after classics: Flying Buttress(VD), Dives/Better Things(HS), Cobweb Crack(VS),

Sabre Cut(VS), Cemetery Gates(E1), Cenotaph Corner(E1), The Grond(E2), Left Wall(E2), Memory Lane(E3), Resurrection(E4), Right

Wall(E5), Lord of the Flies(E6)

Dinas Mot SH627 563 350m N SH627 567, 9.5miles, 17min SE, 200m, 0.9km, 25min

North facing provides respite from the blazing sun with brilliant multi pitch fare such as: The Cracks(HS), Western Slabs(VS),

Lorraine(VS), The Mole(HVS), West Rib(HVS), Gollum(HVS), Jubilee Climb(HVS), Plexus(E1), Superdirect(E1), Nexus(E1), Ten

Degrees North(E2), A New Austerlitz(E3)

Clogwyn Du’r Arddu SH600 556 700m N SH582 597, 5miles, 10min SE, 590m, 5.5km, 90-120m

Mountainous location, can be cold and a longish walk in but compensated for by the plethora of awesome routes such as: Primitive

Route(VD), Longland’s Climb(VS), Curving Crack(VS), Pigott’s Climb(VS), Sheaf(HVS), Pedestal Crack(HVS), The Boulder(E1),

Vember(E1), Octo(E1), White Slab(E2), Shrike(E2), Scorpio(E2), Jelly Roll(E2), The Mostest(E3), Great Wall(E4), Mordor(E4)

Serengeti SH595 604 350m SE SH590 610, 1.25m, 4min SE, 150m, 1.3km, 15m

Slate routes, trad and bolted with many more areas in Dinorwig Quarries: Seamstress(VS), Seams the Same(E1), Slippery People(E2),

Kubla Khan(E4), Tentative Decisions(E5), The Carbon Stage(F6c+), Heading the Shot(F7a), The Medium(F8a)

There are many, many options in North Wales for bouldering, sport, trad, scrambling or walking with many spectacular locations and

areas such as Llanberis Pass, Gogarth (31miles), Tryfan, Clogwyn Du’r Arddu (Cloggy), the Moelwyns (30miles), Crib Goch, Dinorwig

Slate Quarries, Tremadog (25miles), Ogwen; the list is almost endless and the above is merely a sample!

North Wales

2-5th May 2014

Accommodation We are staying at the Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club’s hut at Deiniolen which is

approx. 3 miles drive from Llanberis. We have exclusive use of the hut for the whole

Bank Holiday weekend which is fully equipped complete with drying room.

More details online at http://www.shrewsburymc.com/clubhut.html

Llanberis Meet

Some Useful Internet Resources:

Mountain Weather Information Service: http://www.mwis.org.uk/sd.php

UKC Guide to Llanberis Pass: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2508

Guidebooks:

North Wales Rock Ground Up selected guide (2009) covering all the main areas (ISBN: 9780955441738)

North Wales Classics Rockfax pocket sized selected guide (2010), no Gogarth though (ISBN: 9781873341179)

Climbers Club Home to the definitive guides for each of the climbing areas in North Wales

Maps:

OS: 1:25,000 Explorer: Sheet OL17 Snowdon for Llanberis and Snowdon; OL18 Harelch, Porthmadog & Y Bala for Moelwyns

and Tremadog; Explorer 262 Anglesey West for Gogarth and Holyhead Mountain

The NMC visits Llanberis in North Wales, situated in the heart of Snowdonia with the highest

concentration of quality climbing anywhere in the UK; there is a huge variety of rock types and

climbing options from serious high mountain crags, sea cliffs, trad and sport slate routes, single

pitch cragging, bouldering and perfect terrain for exhilarating scrambling and walking.

This is a great opportunity to explore new areas and meet new people, revisit favourite haunts

and enjoy all that is best about North Wales on this Bank Holiday weekend. Book early to avoid

disappointment!

Whilst new members are very welcome and encouraged, please note that this is not an instructional meet;

you should come as a competent leader/second if you wish to hook up with a climbing partner or you should

have already agreed your climbing or walking partner(s). Bring your own gear and contact the meet leader,

Alastair Boardman by email if you have any queries.

Getting There

About four and a quarter hours by car from Newcastle: A1 South to J42, M62 West, merge

onto M60 at J12 then M6 South at J10. M6 South to J20A then M56 to North Wales,

continue onto A494 then onto A55 following signs for Conwy to J11 then A5 toward

Bangor/Betws-y-Coed. At roundabout take 3rd exit A4244 to next roundabout, 1st exit

A4244, after 2.5 miles turn left toward Deiniolen/Stryd Fawr, follow road through village

turning left just after the church, hut is first building on right. Parking for lots of vehicles.

(Postcode LL55 3NB).

North Wales Rock (2009 2nd edition) This compact guide features over 670 of the best climbs across all

of the major areas in North Wales including Llanberis Pass, Dinorwig Slate quarries, Cloggy, Lliwedd,

Ogwen and the Carneddau, Tremadog and the Moelwyns, Gogarth, Lleyn Peninsula and the limestone

bolted sport climbs around Llandudno. Featuring full colour topos, area maps and crag approach maps

this is possibly the only guide the occasional visitor will need. There is a copy in the NMC library if you

wish to borrow it as well as the excellent Welsh Slate guide – contacts details in the Members’

Handbook.