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Bohemian847 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, CA95404 Phone: 707.527.1200 Fax: 707.527.1288

EditorStett Holbrook, ext. 202

News EditorTom Gogola, ext. 106

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ContributorsRob Brezsny, Richard von Busack, James Knight, Ari LeVaux Steve Palopoli, Jonah Raskin, David Templeton, Tom Tomorrow

Design DirectorKara Brown

Art DirectorTabi Zarrinnaal

Production Operations CoordinatorMercy Perez

Senior DesignerJackie Mujica, ext. 213

Layout ArtistGary Brandt

Advertising DirectorLisa Marie Santos, ext. 205

Advertising Account ManagersAugusto Len, ext 212Mercedes Murolo, ext. 207Lynda Rael, ext. 204

Sales Operations ManagerDeborah Bonar, ext. 215

PublisherRosemary Olson, ext. 201

CEO/Executive Editor

Dan Pulcrano

NORTH BAY BOHEMIAN [ISSN 1532-0154] (incorporating the Sonoma County Independent) is published weekly, on Wednesdays, by Metrosa Inc., located at: 847 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, CA 95404. Phone: 707.527.1200; fax: 707.527.1288; e-mail: editor@bohemian.com. It is a legally adjudicated publication of the county of Sonoma by Superior Court of California decree No. 119483. Member: Association of Alternative Newsweeklies, National Newspaper Association, California Newspaper Publishers Association, Verified Audit Circulation. Subscriptions (per year): Sonoma County $75; out-of-county $90. Third-class postage paid at Santa Rosa, CA. FREE DISTRIBUTION: The BOHEMIAN is available free of charge at numerous locations, limited to one copy per reader. Additional copies may be purchased for one dollar, payable in advance at The BOHEMIANs office. The BOHEMIAN may be distributed only by its authorized distributors. No person may, without permission of the publisher, take more than one copy of each issue.The BOHEMIAN is printed on 40 % recycled paper.

Published by Metrosa, Inc., an affiliate of Metro Newspapers 2015 Metrosa Inc. Cover design by Kara Brown.

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The list could go on and on but suffice to say, this is definitely the most enjoyable place to shop for yourself or buy that unique gift for that special person. Theyre enviro-conscious too! Between the nostalgic tunes playing and the friendly faces, it just doesnt get better than Native Riders. They making going local so easy. Enjoy!

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I WANNA BE REISSUED Oral histories are like rock and roll itself, says Please Kill Me co-author Legs McNeil, very, very fascistic and anal. p16.

Sonic, AT&T and the NSADEBRIEFER P10

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RhapsodiesBOHEMIAN

Minimal WagesRight now, the minimum wage is a joke (For a Few Dollar More, July 12). Hats off to Marin County, S.F. and the other communities that are doing the right thing!Unbelievable that homecare workers are still getting shut out. Thank you for an intelligent, informative article on whats going on locally.

LESLIE 2Via Bohemian.com

What an asinine article. You obviously have no understanding of economics. You get paid for what you are worth, not what you want. Your worth is based on your skills and education.That being said, the piece de resistance: Confederate state of Alabama. You do realize that there hasnt been a Confederate state in 150 years? Unless, of course, you are granting the right of secession to Alabama. If so, please confer the same right to the other 12 states of the former Confederacy.

FOLLY67Via Bohemian.com

By Tom TomorrowTHIS MODERN WORLD

Unfortunately, we are not paid what were worth; were paid the smallest amount people can get away with. Every 17 cents Sonoma pays IHSS homecare workers is matched by 33 cents from the state and 50 cents by the feds. Thats an extra 83 cents that comes into the county that doesnt cost a dime. And that money is not going to be socked away in anyones 401(k). It is going to pay for goods, services and housing.Now thats good economics!

ZURIEAVia Bohemian.com

Clean PowerBohemian, do your research before you praise Sonoma Clean Power and believe their numbers (Charging Ahead, Aug. 12). Mr. Syphers Sonoma Clean Power isnt as green as they say they are, very sad to say. And they are ghting tooth and nail against a transparency law that would expose them: AB 1110.

I work in the energy industry, but you dont need to be an insider to see the truth. Read this PD editorial shaming SCP for lack of transparency on AB 1110: pressdemocrat.com/opinion/4280264-181/pd-editorial-making-energy-sources. Marin Clean Energy and LEAN Energy both dropped their resistance, as their alliance with Shells sneaky accounting was nally going public. Theyre preparing for the inevitable forced transparency, going greener than they currently are, as they want to retain customers.The bottom line is that businesses and homes with low-carbon goals who thought Sonoma Clean Power was going to do all the work for them may be, unfortunately, mistaken.

ROHNERT PARK 1956Via Bohemian.com

Crazy Constitutionalists Is this ofcer of the law (Cops on Film, Aug. 12), who was required to swear an oath to uphold the Constitution, insinuating that it is a bad thing for an American citizen to support the Constitution, or that such a person would be a crazy guy?

NONAMEVia Bohemian.com

The people are the rightful masters of both Congresses and courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution.Abraham Lincoln

BODE TVia Bohemian.com

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Pegasus Theater Company presents

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RantsDrive-Throughs Be GoneArchitectural dinosaur has no place anymore BY THOMAS BONFIGLI

My mother, whom I had taken shopping, requested that I pull into the new Amys Restaurant in Rohnert Park to pick up a menu.

Upon pulling into the parking lot, I was horried at the number of automobiles forming a seemingly unending line in the drive-through. Sorry, folks, but the drive-through, that architectural dinosaur of modern convenience, and one of the last vestiges of the 1970s that is still with us, has no place in a progressive, forwarding-thinking establishment thats trying to change our diets for the better.

Being the tenaciously inquisitive individual that I am, I got out of my car and walked the length of the snaking line of cars (which, incidentally, temporarily blocked my ingress into the parking lot) to see just how many of these cars were sitting in this line with their engines idling. All but one had their engines purring away!

I then walked back to my car, found a parking place and entered the restaurant, where I was greeted by the wonderful smells of healthful food and the cheerful voice of an employee asking if she could help me. I requested a menu and walked back to my car.

The food smelled great and the prices certainly seem to be reasonable, and while I did not order any food this time, perhaps I will next time.

Im all for making organic food available to as many patrons as possible. And I have nothing against the wonderful folks who founded the Amys chain, or the wonderful people who are employed by them. However, does the company really want to be identied by the same unofficial advertising logo that so ingloriously typies their cross-county, cholesterol-producing competitor, In-N-Out Burger?

As I left the parking lot to head back to my hometown of Sebastopolwhere new drive-throughs have been banned by the Sebastopol City CouncilI couldnt help but lament the fact that that the drive-through bugaboo is still with us, even after all these years.

Thomas Bonfigli lives in Santa Rosa. Open Mic is a weekly feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 350 words considered for publication, write openmic@bohemian.com.

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They have troubles at land and at sea, says Marin County Supervisor Steve Kinsey, who also sits on the California Coastal Commission. At the land-bound county level, Kinsey says that the business use permit does not permit anywhere near the level of activity that they undertake on that site.

The coastal commission and lawyers for the oyster company are meanwhile in litigation over TBOCs coastal development permits and whether it should be able to reclaim portions of bayside oyster grounds it once owned. The gist of their argument, says Friend, is that TBOC predated the emergence of the California Coastal Commission and may not be subject to a permit with the CC. Gluck with that.

The troubles at TBOC began in 2012, says Friend, when the facility hosted a theater event. It came to pass that there was a complaint led against us for having a little theater conducted here on a summer evening, he says.

The Marin County use permit for TBOC dates back to 1987, says Friend, and stipulates a few conditions that the operation has outgrown as its popularity has increased.

The permit allowed for the retail operation to run Friday through Sunday; the operation could hire a maximum of eight employees, and only one full-time resident was allowed on the property.

Yet by 2012, Friend says, we were operating seven days a week, and we were not supposed to be doing that. We have more employees. So the county wanted to start from scratch, they wanted to take it from the top. We said, Fine, wed like to do that.

Friend says TBOC has tried numerous times to sort out the traffic problem. First, the company tried to take over an underused nearby parking lot owned by the state. The state said no-go.

For a while, they parked cars on a parcel owned by the federal government. The feds put the kibosh on that parking lot.

Friend then rented out the West Marin School parking lot, in Point Reyes Station, between Memorial Day and Labor

Paper

Tomales Bay Oyster Company pushes new parking plan to alleviate weekend traffic on Highway 1 BY TOM GOGOLA

Highway to Shell

on hand to try and manage an increasingly unmanageable scene.

Nobody denies that its an accident waiting to happen, least of all Tod Friend, the majority owner of the popular bayside picnicking destination, where the oysters ow freely (but not for free) and visitors are mightily encouraged to carpool, given a traffic picture that often nds dozens of cars lined up along the highway.

People are always trying to do U-ies, the speed limit is

55it is a little bit snarly, says Friend. It really hasnt played out that theres these terrible consequences, but someone can get hit, and we know that. Friend stresses that theres been a total of three collisions associated with the snarly parking scene.

The retail and commercial oyster-harvesting operation is going through changes it hopes will help it expand business, even as it works to make the highway safer for all who would drive it.

Anyone whos ever driven up scenic Highway 1 through Marshall

on a weekend knows this: the parking scene at the Tomales Bay Oyster Company is chaotic.

Cars are everywhere along the road, some swinging U-turns as they try to park, people toting coolers in the roadand just a few young, for-hire parking assistants

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AW SHUCKS The crowds at this West Marin oyster outpost have Marin County officials concerned.

Rory McNam

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1327 Main St, Saint HelenaOpen Daily: Hours 10am6pm

Order online or by phone: 707.968.9182 | baksheeshfairtrade.com

Oysters (8Day, and provided a shuttle.

None of that worked, says Friend. Finally, the company purchased a 26-acre lot across the highway from the main oyster shack and hopes to use it for parkingbut thats by no means guaranteed.

We sought out some idea from the county that theyd give some permission, give us the thumbs-upso we bought it, and its the centerpiece of our proposal with the county.

Problem is, the 26 acres are zoned as an agricultural protection parcel. Kinsey says the county recently sent Friend a letter that indicated TBOC is not going to build large parking lots in the ag zones.

The Marin County Planning Commission will take up the parking plan Sept. 17.

The 26 acres pretty much speaks to the parking issue, says a hopeful Friend.

Kinsey notes that hes a big fan of the West Marin oyster economy and wants to help sort out TBOCs intersection of growing pains: We want to support oysters, oyster growing and oyster entertainment.

And why shouldnt he: oysters represent a huge draw for the county. Friend says that the recent closing of Drakes Bay Oyster Company has naturally meant a spillover crowd to his businessthats 50,000 Drakes Bay visitors a year whose options for al fresco oysters, he says, are now Tomales Bay Oyster Company or Hog Island (and, wed add, the Marshall Store).

Friend notes that the biggest groups to visit TBOC are Asian-American weekenders, and hes worked mightily to manage the traffic they bring with them. Half of our customers are Asian-Americans from the East Bay, says Friend. Nobody in the world loves shellsh like the Asian and the Latino populations. The people who are the least avid about the oysters are the Caucasians, but they come out for the picnicking.

The oyster company enacted a reservation system, says Friend, to try and control the traffic and the parking. But that didnt work, even though Friend says

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had to come by a bus or a van. Instead, the reservation system

only encouraged more cars to the site. It didnt help with the number of cars, says Friend. It went the other way. So weve gone away from reservations. Now its rst-come, rst serve. But we tell the big parties: you have to come by bus.

The parking snafu, says Friend, sees up to a hundred cars parked along the road on the weekend. That has been the subject of some complaint and concern in Marshall, says Friend.

Kinsey says hes surprised at the absence of California State Highway Patrol officers at TBOC to direct traffic or write tickets.

It shocks me that CHP hasnt been more formidable, says Kinsey. He adds that its not like the officers arent writing tickets already. I hear from single-family homeowners in Marshall who get nailed by CHP for backing into the roadway from their homes.

Friend says that the CHP does come to the facility, but only on a couple of occasions to write tickets.

CHP public information officer Andrew Barclay says part of the law enforcement problem is TBOCs location at the far-northwestern edge of Marin County. Unless theres a call for service or a specic complaint, Marin-based state police dont make it out there too often. Thats especially so on the weekends when, says Barclay, theres only one or two CHP officers on patrol in all of West Marinand an increasing number of collisions to contend with. Still, says Barclay, we are aware of the parking problem up in that area. Its on our radar . . . but we dont have the resources to station one officer at the TBOC.

In any event, the CHP officers who do head to TBOC are more likely to enjoy the scene than write tickets, says Friend. Weve got CHP guys who come without their uniforms, and come for a picnic, says Friend.

No problem there, says Barclay, so long as everyone understands that those officers are off-duty. What officers do in their spare time, thats their business. The Bohemian started as The Paper in 1978.

offers a virtual privacy network option which provides privacy through encrypted data tunnels. The company already encourages customers to use the VPN where theres public WiFi (airports, cafes); the encouragement is now extended to suburban subscribers.

Customers who do not want to be subject to the AT&T policies and practices can utilize the VPN feature, says Jasper.

Jasper wasnt surprised about AT&Ts coziness with the NSA. He says the telecom company has long been an essential part of national security, and the revelations from the Snowden documents shouldnt come as a surprise to anyone.

From the Times:

The newly disclosed documents show that AT&T has provided access to peering trafc from other companies networks. . . . AT&Ts corporate relationships provide unique accesses to other telecoms and I.S.P.s, or Internet service providers, one 2013 N.S.A. document states.

Jasper says he doesnt know whether AT&T provided peering access to suburban Sonic subscribers emails or calls. But its possible. Its a wholesale product that we purchase from them as an ISP, says Jasper, and so a statement like [the above quote] would be applicable to that product.

When it comes to international calls, Jasper says privacy does not exist. When it goes international, I never had any assumption that there was any level of security for those sorts of calls.

Our goal is to protect our legal customers, he adds. We believe that if a customer commits a crime, we will meet our responsibilities, with a court order. But if youre not a criminal, I dont believe that anybody should be snooping on you.Tom Gogola

DEBRIEFER

Sonic Truth The National Security Agencys ability to spy on vast quantities of Internet trafc passing through the United States has relied on its extraordinary, decades-long partnership with a single company: the telecom giant AT&T . . .

So read an opening sentence in the New York Times of Aug. 15, in a story about widespread spying on international communications sourced largely from documents absconded from the NSA by Edward Snowden.

The article also described how smaller telecommunications companies that use AT&T networks could get caught in the NSA dragneteven ones with strong privacy policies like Santa Rosabased Sonic. In April, Sonic partnered with AT&T to expand services into suburban zones.

The recent partnership with AT&T allows us to reach areas where our network doesnt reach, says Sonic cofounder Dane Jasper. Only customers in these expanded areassuch as Bennett Valleywere exposed to potential NSA spying via the AT&T-NSA partnership.

To expand its service, Sonic utilized AT&Ts so-called ber-to-the-node technology (FTTN) and its digital subscriber line access multiplexer (DSLAM) devices to kick off its Fusion FTTN service. The company operates its own DSLAM for nonsuburban subscribers, and Jasper says the device is in Sonics central ofce in Santa Rosa. The device sources the companys DSL signal and phone dial tones, Jasper explains.

But when it comes to privacy for Sonics suburban customers, they are subject to AT&Ts policies and whatever access is granted to government agencies like the NSA.

Even before the AT&T revelations, Sonic worked to protect customers privacy, says Jasper. The company

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SALTY, SWEET, SOUR, BITTER AND DELICIOUS The BLT succeeds because of its harmonious combination of avors and textures. But thats a lot of mayo on this one.

Bacon Meets TomatoThe BLT in theory and practice BY ARI LEVAUX

the tomato brings a cocktail of avors that interact with the BLTs other ingredients, including the mayo and bread, which are so essential that they can go without mention in the sandwichs name. After all, if it is a sandwich, then there is bread and there is mayo. I believe onions fall into this category as well. But nobody wants to say BLOMBT.

According to current theory on taste perception, the human body is wired to detect at least ve basic tastes: salty, sweet, sour, umami and bitter. Impressively, a BLT contains all of these.

Most of these tastes are easy to detect, but the amount of bitter, which happens to be the only basic taste to which people often object, is low. Slight bitter notes come from the lettuce, onion and the mustard powder thats in most mayo formulations, and at these low levels they add an earthy base to the BLT without making the sandwich itself taste bitter.

Tomatoes contribute sweet and sour, as well as a surprising amount of umami, to the equation. Umami is measured by the amount of free glutamate, the levels of which are high in a ripe tomato.

If it wasnt for the tomato, the BLT sandwich would be a four-season delight.

But the tomatoes must be fresh, which limits when the sandwich is available.

The BLT doesnt just depend on the tomato. It serves as a stage on which to display it and as a way to enjoy one of the best parts of summer.

The ideal tomato is one that requires you to wear a bib when you eat the sandwich. But in addition to its refreshing juices,

Tomatoes also interact spectacularly with the BLTs other ingredients, including salt and fat, which bacon contributes. Fat, while not officially recognized as a basic taste, might be on the verge of becoming one. Whether or not its an official basic taste, theres no question that fat makes things taste better.

Mayonnaise is mostly fat, but like the BLT, it contains every basic taste: sweet (most recipes have some added sweetener), sour (from the lemon or vinegar), bitter (from the mustard powder) umami (from egg yolk) and salt. Mayo also provides an important layer of lubricant that helps all of these layers merge together in your mouth. And like the bacon, onion and lettuce, mayonnaise mixes harmoniously with the tomato.

Bread contributes sweet, salt and umami tastes to the overall avor of the sandwich, but its most important attribute is to function as a skin that holds the other ingredients together long enough for you to eat them. Tomatoes, along with the mayo, undermine the breads job by soaking through the bread and destroying its structural integrity. This is why the bread is usually toasted.

BLT loversand lovers of all sandwiches, reallywould benet from an elegant trick that I learned from a farmer friend. Toast one side of each slice of bread and position the two sides facing inward, where they can withstand the onslaught of tomato and mayo. The untoasted sides face the outside, where theyre soft as white gloves on the inside of your mouth.

To toast just one side of each slice, you can either squeeze two slices into the same toaster slot, or arrange them side-by-side under the broiler.

Its hard to mess up a BLT. Just dont burn the bacon or toast. Add avocado if you wish. Use whatever bread you want, and be very picky about the tomatoes. And most important, dont use Miracle Whip.

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SONOMA COUNTYBistro 29 Bistro. $$-$$$. Get an honestly prepared plate of excellence, reasonably priced, at this veritable palace of crepes. Dinner, Tues-Sat. 620 Fifth St, Santa Rosa. 707.546.2929.

Brunos on Fourth American. $$-$$$. Theres real sophistication lurking in these upscale American comfort staples like flat-iron steak and fries, macaroni-ham casserole and stellar braised lamb shank. Lunch and dinner, Tues-Fri; dinner only, Sat; Sun, brunch and dinner. 1226 Fourth St, Santa Rosa. 707.569.8222.

Dempseys Alehouse Gourmet pub fare. $-$$. Popular brewpub and bistro, award-winning handcrafted beers, outdoor dining in summer and pork chops to die for. Lunch and dinner daily. 50 E Washington St, Petaluma. 707.765.9694.

Haku Sushi. $-$$. Cleverly named rolls like Jedi Mind Trick and Roll me a Fatty are as flavorful as they are fun. Lunch and dinner daily. 518 Seventh St, Santa Rosa. 707.541.6359.

Khoom Lanna Thai. $$. Outstanding Thai dishes and seasonal specialties with an authentic cooking style. Fresh ingredients, serene dining room, convenient Railroad Square location. Lunch and dinner daily. 107 Fourth St, Santa Rosa. 707.545.8424.

Kirin Chinese. $$. Specializing in Mandarin, Szechuan and Peking styles. Kirins pot stickers are the best in Sonoma County. Lunch and dinner, Tues-Sat; dinner, Sun. 2700 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa. 707.525.1957.

Marthas Old Mexico Mexican. $. Freshly prepared

favorites, along with regional house specialties. Lunch and dinner, Wed-Mon; dinner only, Sat-Sun. 305 N Main St, Sebastopol. 707.823.4458.

Pongos Kitchen & Tap Thai. $$. Family-owned and operated with super-fresh ingredients and a full kids menu. Lunch and dinner daily. 701 Sonoma Mt Pkwy, Petaluma. 707.765.9800.

Sante California cuisine. $$$. In this world-class spa setting sample Sonoma County-inspired dishes or an elegant traditional brunch. Dinner daily; brunch, Sun. 18140 Sonoma Hwy, Boyes Hot Springs. 707.939.2415.

Simply Vietnam Vietnamese. $. Friendly Vietnamese for all ethnic tastes. Savory, satisfying and filling. Pho can be hit or miss, depending on the meat quality. Lunch and dinner daily. 966 N Dutton Ave, Santa Rosa. 707.566.8910.

Underwood Bar & Bistro European bistro. $$. The Underwoods classy bistro menu and impressive bar belie its rural setting. Lunch and dinner, Tues-Sat; dinner, Sun. 9113 Graton Rd, Graton. 707.823.7023.

West Side Bar & Grill Sports Bar. $$. Home of the almost-famous bacon cheeseburger. Seventeen beers on tap (wine list available). Fourteen flat screen televisions to watch all of the hottest sports events. Two great pool tables. Lunch and dinner daily. 3082 Marlow Rd # B8, Santa Rosa. 707.573.9453.

MARIN COU N TYBay Thai Thai. $. Fresh Thai food with curries that combine the regions classic sweet and tart elements. Some of the best fried bananas to be

found. Lunch and dinner, Mon-Sat; dinner, Sun. (Cash only.) 809 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.458.8845.

Buckeye Roadhouse American. $$-$$$. A Marin County institution. Delightful food, friendly and seamless service, and a convivial atmosphere. Try one of the many exotic cocktails. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch, Sat-Sun. 15 Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley. 415.331.2600.

Fish Seafood. $$-$$$. Incredibly fresh seafood in incredibly relaxed setting overlooking bay. Lunch and dinner daily. (Cash only.) 350 Harbor Dr, Sausalito. 415.331.FISH.

Fradelizios Italian. $$. Locally sourced northern Italian dishes with a California-cuisine touch. The house red is a custom blend from owner Paul Fradelizio. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch, Sat-Sun. 35 Broadway Blvd, Fairfax. 415.459.1618.

M&Gs Burgers & Beverages American. $. The ultimate in American cuisine. Crispy fries, good burgers and friendly locals chowing down. Lunch and dinner daily. 2017 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.454.0655.

Marin Brewing Co Pub food. $-$$. Excellent soups, salads, pub grub and award-winning pork-beer sausage. Lunch and dinner daily. 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur. 415.461.4677.

Mountain Home Inn American. $$-$$$$. Great summer sandwiches with a view atop Mt Tamalpais. Breakfast, Sat-Sun; lunch and dinner, Wed-Sun. 810 Panoramic Dr, Mill Valley. 415.381.9000.

Nicks Cove Seafood/contemporary American. $$$$. Fresh from the bay oysters, upscale seafood, some steaks and a great burger. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. 23240 State Route 1, Marshall. 415.663.1033.

Robata Grill & Sushi Japanese. $$. Mmm. With thick slices of fresh sashimi, Robata knows how to do it. The rolls are big winners. Lunch, Mon-Fri; dinner daily. 591 Redwood Hwy, Mill Valley. 415.381.8400.

The William Tell House American & Italian. $$.

DiningOur selective list of North Bay restaurants is subject to menu, pricing and schedule changes. Call rst for conrmation. Restaurants in these listings appear on a rotating basis. For expanded listings, visit www.bohemian.com.

COST: $ = Under $12; $$ = $13-$20; $$$ = $21-$26; $$$$ = Over $27Rating indicates the low to average cost of a full dinner for one person, exclusive of desserts, beverages and tip.

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