North America PDF

8/9/2019 North America PDF

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TreksIn

North America

James Baxter

Sept 2006

1.Wind river Range2. Sierra Nevada

Page 3.

Page 9.


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This is a short account o two treks in

North America which I did in September

2006. These two treks are part o a

greater project and will be described in

detail on a orthcoming website and book

and this is just a quick description with

some photographs. The two walks are:

1. A north to south traverse o the Wind

River Range in the Rocky Mountains.

The Winds are located in the State o

Wyoming. The trek is 120 km and takes 7

days, all o it through wilderness with no

acilities. Most o the trek is on established

trails, notably The Fremont Trail and theHighline Trail, which it alternates between,

picking the best route. This trek ollows

the Continental Divide Trial or much o

its length.

2. The John Muir Trail is located in the

Sierra Nevada Mountains in Caliornia,

the highest mountains in the Lower 48

States. This trek is ound in the southern

hal o this mountain range. It is arguably

the best trek in North America passing

through stunning landscapes rich in wildlieand owers. The trek is 365km and takes

about 16 days, but most people will want

to insert a couple o days to appreciate

the beauty.

The 16 days are all through wilderness

with no acilities, However in the northern

section there are acilities ater small

detours. Just beore the halway point isthe rustic Vermillion Lodge. Supplies can

be posted to here or obtained rom here.

This trek ollows the Pacifc Crest Trail or

much o its length.

The Wind River Range and The Sierra Nevada Range both contain many regions with stunning and idyllic

landscapes. During the summer months they are also blessed with reliable, dry, stable weather, especially

the Sierra Nevada. This a view o Mount Banner and Mount Ritter rising above Garnet Lake in the

northern hal o the John Muir Trail (day 5).


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Wind River Range

The Wind Range Traverse is a classic trekin the Rocky Mountains. The trail ollowsthe spine o the range or 120 km keepinglargely on the west side o the spine othe range, which is also the Continental

Divide. Connoisseurs consider the WindRiver Range to be the most spectacularrange in the American Rockies.

The Wind River Range lies entirely withina collection o adjoining Wilderness Areasand Forests. There are about 1500 alpinelakes in the range, many o which containtrout. There are no acilities except or

occasional bridges in this wilderness areaso parties must be sel sufcient and carryall ood and camping equipment whilehiking these spectacular high mountains.

The best time o year to visit the area isJune, July August and September. Howeverduring the earlier summer months riversare high and melting snows make dampconditions ripe or plagues o mosquitos.

September sees the weather becomingmore unstable. The optimum monthto go is August. Meadows ull o wildowers are standard, Moose and deer arecommon and Bighorn Sheep may be seenwhile small mammals abound

The town with best links to the start andfnish is Pinedale, but public transport

does not exist. Taxis are expensive andhitching is difcult but perhaps the bestchoice. It is about 60km to the start andfnish rom Pinedale.

The Alpine Paintbrush,

Castilleja rhexiolia, is a

common sight in both

the higher orests and

meadows

Elephants Head

Lousewort, Pedicularis

groenlandica, are common

in damp alpine locations

during mid summer.

The Yellow-bellied Marmot,Marmota faviventris , is

ound in rocky bouldery areas rom the high orests

upwards where there is enough grass to eat. It attens

up in the summer and hibernates during the winter in

an extensive burrow, usually under a large boulder.


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The 7 Day route starts at the Green River Lakes Trailhead and ollows the spine o the Wind River Range

southwards or some 120 km to Big Sandy Trailhead. For most o the route the trail keeps on the west

side o the main ridge o the range, which is also the Continental Divide. It crosses to the east side or

the last night at Lonesome Lake in the Cirque o the Towers.

On Day 1 the trail leaves the trailhead and crosses a bridge over the Green River, the source o the

Colorado River. This photo is taken just ater the bridge. The trail then goes down the east side (let) side

o two lakes and into a U shaped glacial valley on the let side o Squaretop Mountain. This mountain is in

the middle o the photograph in the distance.

Wind River Range

BigSandy

GreenRiverLakes

ThreeForksPark

FremontCrossing

LonesomeLake

BaldMountainBasin

Ea

stForkRiver

N

orthForksLake


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On Day 1 at the south end o each o the two Green River Lakes are marshy areas, lagoons and ox-bow

lakes which are rich in aquatic plants. These plants are sought ater by moose which are oten seen in the

area. The males may be over 2 metres high and weigh 600kg. The antlers may be 1 meters across. One

should be wary o moose and never approach a emale with cal. They are excellent swimmers

On Day 2 there are 3 passes to cross. The frst is the beautiul Vista Pass shown here. The other two,

Cube Rock Pass and Shannon Pass lie in the mountains in the background o the photo, There are

possible campsite around Vista Pass but the other two passes are much higher and somewhat exposed.


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On Day 3 the trail leave Fremont Crossing and heads south across a plateau dotted with lakes. From

here there are great views back north to the mountains o the Titcombe Basin seen to the right o the

photo.

Day 5 is relatively at as the trail heads south across a high plateau on the west side o the spine o the

range. Towards the end o the day the route heads back into the mountains up the Washakie Creek Valley.

This valley is in the middle o the photo. On day 6 the trail crosses a pass over the mountains ahead.


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On Day 6 the trail heads up a valley to Shadow Lake and the mountains o the Continental Divide and

those which make up the Cirque o the Towers. However we are looking at the outer side o the Cirque.

The pass into the cirque, Texas Pass, is o the photo to the let. The pass we see on the let, New York

Pass is steep and oten snow-bound on the ar side making it a difcult crossing without equipment.

The Cirque o Towers is one o the highlights o the trek. It is a deep cirque containing the Lonesome

Lake. Almost completely surrounding the lake on all sides are loty towers o granite which rise sheer

rom the cirque oor or some 700 metres. The Cirque o Towers is a climbers Mecca.


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The Wind River Range: North-South Traverse

Day Start Finish Km Up Down Time General

1Green

River Lakes

Trailhead

Three Forks

Park23 310 240 9

From the trailhead at the outlet o the northernlake ollow the trail south, passing to the east o

the two spectacular, turquoise lakes. Moose arecommon here. Then ollow the open U-shapedvalley south passing to the east o the imposingSquaretop Mountain. Enter a deep V-shaped canyonthen cross a bridge over the Green River, beyondwhich is Three Forks Meadow and good campsites.

2Three Forks

Park

Fremont

Crossing17 1080 510 10

From the camp, head up to Trail Creek Park andthen over the beautiul Vista Pass. Then head southout o the trees across boulders over the easyCube Rock Pass and harder Shannon Pass to reacha high plateau with sparse vegetation. Go southeastacross this plateau to cross a col and headdown past Upper and Lower Jean Lakes, beore

descending to the bridge at Fremont Crossing.

3Fremont

Crossing

Bald

Mountain

Basin

14 630 580 7

Cross the bridge and ollow the path across aconvoluted plateau to Seneca lakes. ThereaterLester pass and descend through idyllic orest tothe Cook Lakes. Continue or another 2 km overknolls to reach Pole creek. Cross this stream andollow the path up through the orest to reach acomplex o shallow lakes in Bald Mountain Basinand some campsites beore an unnamed pass.

4

Bald

MountainBasin

North ForksLake 16 540 690 9

Leave the Basin and climb up the unnamed pass.Descend rom this pass and take the high ork ata junction which leads over two rocky knolls toa open valley. From here there is an easy climbthrough orest and grassland to Hat Pass. DescendHat Pass into orest and clearing dotted with lakesuntil North Fork Lake is reached. There are goodcampsites on the north side o the lake.

5North Forks

Lake

East Fork

River25 720 710 10

Leave North Fork Lake and ollow the attishorest path to the Pipestone Lakes. From herehead south east along a line o orest lakes to BobsLake. Continue south east ater Bobs lake but nowacross grassland climbing slowly to Sheep Creek.Ater this stream climb a bit more then onceCirque o Towers appears descend to the meadowwith the East Fork River owing though and camp.

6East Fork

River

Lonesome

Lake14 640 510 7

Leave the meadow and head east up the beautiulWashakie Creek valley towards jagged peaks. Passnorth o Shadow lake and climb to Billys, Barrenand Texas Lakes. From Texas Lake ascend a roughtrail up to Texas Pass or a stunning view. Descendinto the Cirque keeping just east o the growingstream to Lonesome Lake. Follow the north shoreto the outlet and spectacular camps below this.

7Lonesome

Lake

Big Sandy

Trailhead16 280 580 6

Follow the south shore to the beck rom HiddenLake and fnd the climbers trail. Follow this trailup to the pass at the base o Warbonnet Peak.Descend to Arrowhead lake. Clamber overboulders on the west shore to meet the other trail.Descend to North Lake and then the Big SandyLake. From here there is a long pleasant orestdescent beside the Big Sandy River to the trailhead.

125km 4200 2820 59hrs


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Sierra Nevada

The Sierra Nevada in Caliornia is thehighest mountain range in North Americaoutside the Alaska/Yukon Ranges. Itprobably has the best summer weather

o any range in the world. The sceneryis stunning and wildlie is abundant. It ishardly surprising that this is the setting orarguably the best walk in North America,namely the 360km John Muir Trail (JMT).

The trail starts at the iconic YosemiteValley and ends at Mt. Whitney. During itsentire length it passes through protected

wilderness areas. There are no acilitiesalthough in the northern hal the trail runsadjacent to 3 campsites with stores andrestocking opportunities. The rest o the

trail passes through pristine wildernesswith just some ootbridges, so partiesmust carry up to 10 days o ood and allcamping gear.

It is possible to do this trek rom late Juneto late September but the optimum timeto do the trek is late August and earlySeptember when the snows on the passeshave melted, the insects have disappearedand temperatures diminished rom thesummer highs.

Public transport rom San Francisco toYosemite is good but the return romWhitney Portal is slow and complicatedand takes over a day.

Golden-Mantled GroundSquirrel Spermophilus

lateralis are very common

in pine orests. They

resemble chipmunks.

Belding Ground SquirrelSpermophilus beldingi, or

Picket Pins, are common in

the north hal o the trek,

especially near Tuolumne.

The Mule Deer Odocoileus hemionus are abundantthroughout the length o the trek. As they are generally

not shy they are regularly seen. They are ound in or

just above the orest. They have large ears and black

tipped tails.


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On Day 1 there is long climb up out o Yosemite Valley into the Sierra Nevada. You pass a number o

spectacular wateralls en route such as the Nevada Falls seen here. Just beyond the alls is the granite

dome o Liberty Cap. The highest granite dome in the distance is Hal Dome.

Hal Done is an imposing and emblematic peak at the start o the trek. Although not strictly part o the

JMT it is only a 4 hour sidetrip to make the surprisingly easy ascent which goes up the ace towards us.

This sidetrip can either be done on Day 1 or 2. The view rom the top is second to none with the whole

o the unbelievably spectacular Yosemite Valley beneath you and the Sierra Nevada peaks around you.


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The John Muir Trail starts at the Happy Isles Trailhead in Yosemite Valley. It then heads through the

wilderness or 3 days to Tuolumne Meadows campsite. It is then 2 days to Reds Meadow campsite. At

both these campsites there is a shop with some provisions, outdoor equipment and a cae. From here it

is a urther 2 days to rustic, riendly Vermillion Resort where the is also a store selling provisions.

John Muir Trail-North Half

Yo

semiteValleyHappyIsles

LittleYosemiteCamp

VermillionFerry

VirginiaL

ake

RedsMeadow

RushCreek

SunriseCamp

TuolumneMeadows

It is possible to mail provisions to Vermillion Resort where it is stored or a ee. From here it is about 10

days without any acilities to Whitney Portal. Almost every day involves going over a 3500-4000 meter

pass and passing through pristine orests dotted with idyllic lakes between these passes

WhitneyPortal

GuitarLake

BubbsCreek

Basin

Arrowhead

Lake

LakeMarjorie

PallisadeCreek

Evolution

Lake

EvolutionMeadow

Rosemarie

Meadow

VermillionFe

rry

John Muir Trail-South Half


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On Day 11 the trail goes up the upper Evolution Valley past the pictured Lake Wanda and over the alpine

Muir Pass in the distance. Lake Wanda has no trout and is a breeding ground or the quite rare and

threatened Mountain Yellow-legged Frog Rana muscosa, which has huge tadpoles.

On Day 4 the trail goes up the gentle Lyell Canyon valley. This 20km long valley has a lazy trout flled

river meandering down its valley oor. On each side o the river are quiet meadows ull o squirrels and

deer. Beyond the meadows are the orest clad oothills. The valley ends in a mountainous basin where

the Donahue Pass leads over to the next watershed


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The Sierra Gentian

Gentianopsis holopetala is

ound on grassy alpine

meadows in the Sierra

Nevada Range.

The Sierra Shooting Star

Dodecatheon jereyi is a

beautiul ower ound

in damp places on alpine

meadows

Rock Fringe Epilobium obcordatum is a very hardy plant

which is ound in inhospitable rocky places at altitudes

o up to 3500 metres. It generally owers later in the

summer.

Day 5 goes past a number o spectacular lakes, some alpine and others in the orest. This small idyllic lake

in the orest is ringed with reeds. It is one o the small Trinity Lakes beside the trail on the long descent

to Reds Meadow.


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On the last day, Day 16, the trek culminates with the ascent o Mt.. Whitney, 4418m, rom the last camp

at Guitar Lake, 3500m. This photo o the rounded summit in the distance is taken rom Trail Crest where

one leave rucksacks or the 3 hour round trip to the summit on a good path. From here it is nearly a

2000 metre, knee testing descent down the east (right) side to Whitney Portal and the treks end.

Towards the southern end o the trek the upper orest is dominated by the Foxtail Pine Pinus balouriana.

While not as massive or spectacular as some o the leviathans along the trail like the Jerey and

Ponderosa Pines, Red and White Firs and Douglas-frs, they should be the most revered. Gnarled. Twisted

specimens, growing in conditions where no other tree could possibly grow, may be up to 3000 years old.


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Sierra Nevada Mountains: The John Muir Trail

Day Start Finish Km Up Down Time General

1

Happy Isles

Trailhead inYosemite

Valley

LittleYosemite

Valley Camp

7 650 50 4

Leave Yosemite Trailhead at Happy Isles and makethe sustained 3 hour climb up to the stunningcascade o Nevada Falls. Continue up the atorested valley or an hour to the campsite. I youhad a morning start, instead o the usual aternoonstart, it would be best to make the essential 5 hoursidetrip up Hal Dome rom this campsite. I doneon Day 1 it will make Day 2 much shorter.

2

Little

Yosemite

Valley Camp

Sunrise

Camp22 1660 710 11

Leave the camp and climb an hour up to the HalDome junction. Assuming it was not climbedon Day I, leave your rucksack and make thespectacular 4 hour return hike up this landmarkmountain. Return to your pack and graduallyascend the orested path, passing a 3 way orkuntil you start to climb a pass. Ascend the pass anddescend to a beautiul meadow and the campsite.

3Sunrise

Camp

Tuolumne

Meadows15 380 610 6

Head north across the meadow or an hour beoreclimbing over the shallow Cathedral Pass. Descendto more meadows and the beautiul CathedralLake at the treeline. From this lake descend in theorest or 2 hours to a visitor centre. Do not go onthe road but head east in the orest or hour toa short trail to Tuolumne Meadows campsite. Thereis a provisions and equipment store near the camp.

4Tuolumne

MeadowsRush Creek 27 820 520 10

Leave the camp and return to the orest trailsouth o the road. Follow the trail or houruntil you are in the stunning Lyell Canyon. Followthe at canyon or 4 hours and then climb up tothe Donahue pass at the end. Descend DonahuePass to a basin o alpine meadows and then drop

into orest with ower-flled glades. Descend or 2hours until you get to Rush Creek and good camps.

5 Rush Creek Reds

Meadow33 930 1480 11

Leave Rush Creek and saunter to Island Passwith exceptional views. Descend gradually tothe truly stunning 1000 Island and Garnet lakes.Climb a small pass and make a long descent tobeautiul Shadow Lake. Climb yet another pass tomore idyllic lakes, then make the long descent to

Johnston Meadow. Drop into the Joaquin Valley andhead to Reds meadow campsite and nearby store.

6Reds

MeadowVirginia Lake 26 1150 400 9

Leave Reds Meadow and ascend fre damagedorest or 1 hours to reach Crater Meadows.Thereater meander through the pumice strewnorest or an hour climbing slightly. Then contour

the hillside above the Cascade Valley with excellentviews. The trail contours into the side valleyscontaining Duck Lake and then Purple Lake beoreclimbing a small pass to reach Virginia Lake.

7 Virginia LakeVermillion

Resort24 590 1350 9

Leave Virginia Lake, climb a small col and descendinto the pastoral meadow at Tullys hole. Followthe river downstream crossing it at a bridge thenbegin the long climb through orest and then alpinelakes to Silver Pass. Descend the south side o thepass, sometimes steeply to Mono valley. I going torestock at Vermillion Resort walk the 2km sidetripto the jetty or the 6km erry at about 1630hrs.

8Vermillion

Resort

Rosemarie

Meadow20 1050 350 8

Take the 0900 erry back to the trail and walkthe 2 km back to the JMT with a restocked pack.

Then make the sustained ascent up to the orestedBear Ridge. Descend the lush south side to BearCreek. Follow the gentle path through the maturelodgepole orest beside the idyllic stream or 2hours to Bear Creek Meadow. From here it is anhour up through the orest to Rosemarie Meadow


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9Rosemarie

Meadow

Evolution

Meadow28 790 990 11

Leave the meadow and climb out o the orestto Marie Lake. Then continue up and over SeldenPass and down ower flled meadows to the verybeautiul Sallie Keys Lakes. Continue the descentdown into the Florence Valley then head upstream,cross the bridge and enter Goddard Canyon.Follow the canyon up or 2 hours, cross the riverand climb into Evolution Valley and campsites.

10Evolution

Meadow

Evolution

Lake9 540 50 5

From Evolution Meadow campsite saunter up thevery serene valley passing through lodgepole orestand idyllic meadows or 3 easy hours. Spectacularpeaks surround this Shangri-La. At the end othe valley climb up zig-zags to reach a higherbasin. Evolution lake is at the edge o this basinoverlooking the serene valley below. There aregood campsites here.

11Evolution

Lake

Pallisade

Creek26 520 1360 12

Leave Evolution Lake and ollow the valley up pastSapphire and Wanda Lakes into the alpine basinand boulders o Muir Pass. Cross the pass anddescend to Helen lake. Continue the deceptivelylong, and sometimes steep, descent past other lakesinto Le Conte Canyon. Pass the Pete Meadows

and Grouse Meadow and continue down the deepcanyon to Palisade creek. Camp in the pines here.

12Pallisade

CreekLake Marjorie 29 1520 670 12

Ascend the orested Palisade Creek or 2 hours toreach the valley headwall and the golden staircaseleading to a higher alpine valley with the PalisadeLakes. Pass the lakes and continue up to the scenicMather Pass. Descend the south side into theUpper Basin and enjoy the easy, scenic descentthrough the orest into the valley. Climb the southside o the valley to Marjorie Lake and camp here.

13 Lake MarjorieArrowhead

Lake23 960 1160 10

Leave Marjorie Lake and make the short ascent toPinchot Pass. Descend the south side o the passinto the orested Woods Creek Valley. Descend

the valley passing wateralls to a ork. Cross thecreek on a suspension bridge and ascend the SouthFork Woods Creek in mixed orest or 2 hours toserene Dollar Lake. Continue up or a hour andcamp beside the equally beautiul Arrowhead Lake.

14Arrowhead

Lake

Bubbs Creek

Basin21 1160 870 10

Leave this lake and continue up past the lovely RaeLakes to start the steep ascent up to Glen Passor 2 hours. Descend the south side into a deepcorrie. Leave the corrie and contour round passingabove the turquoise Charlotte lake. Descend inorest down to the Bubbs Creek Valley and ascendthis canyon-like valley through mixed orest to justbeyond the treeline where there are campsites.

15Bubbs Creek

BasinGuitar Lake 31 1270 1170 12

From the campsite in the Bubbs Creek Basin climbthe relatively easy trail to Forester Pass. There issteep descent on the south side to a open shallowvalley. Follow the gentle valley down to the treelineat Tyndall Creek. Cross the creek and then or 4hours cross Foxtail Pine orests and sandy plateausto reach Crabtree. At Crabtree go up the valleypast Timberline Lake to a campsite at Guitar Lake.

16 Guitar LakeWhitney

Portal24 1070 1940 9

Leave Guitar lake ascend the valley and then startthe long climb up to the col at Trail Crest. Leaveyour pack here and make the easy 3 hour roundtrip to Mt.. Whitney summit. Once back at thepack, shoulder it and start the long, relentless, oten

steep, but very varied descent, down to WhitneyPortal. This is then end o the trek. It should beeasy to hitch the 15 km to the town o Lone Pine.

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