NIO&NIA...Back slit with ties short sleeves E, F, G, M, O1 or O2 ruffle E, F, L, M, O1 or O2 Notions (depending on which versions you want to make) Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122

ShortsTrousers

Shirt

Bel’Etoile

Sizes 80 - 158

NIO&NIA

Copyright 2020 Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved - [email protected] 2

Thanks for purchasing this sewing pattern! I would like to point out that all content of this pattern is copyright protected.

It is therefore not allowed to share the PDF file or printed copies of the pattern with others. This pattern is only intended for personal use.

Any reproduction or resale of this pattern is forbidden by law. It is allowed to make copies for personal use.

The pattern may be used to sell finished items in small quantities, after written permission by the

designer and by indicating the name of the pattern and the link to the websites. Would you like to give a workshop with the pattern?

Contact me for the conditions.

Happy sewing!Isabel

Questions or problems?Feel free to contact me:

Facebook: www.facebook.com/beletoileblogEmail: [email protected]: @_beletoile_


Printing instructionsYou can print the pattern on A4 or letter sized paper at home.

First download the pattern and open it again on PC / laptop /smartphone. Make sure to set the printing to “real size or 100%”.

In the printer settings, select “automatic portrait/lying down “.

A test square is available on the first page of the pattern, make sure to measure it.

To save our environment, we recommend viewing the instructions on your tablet or computer.

You can choose to only print the size you need.

Open the pattern in Adobe Acrobat PDF reader and click on the “layers” icon.Tick off all layers that you don’t need, except the bottom layer, which contains all required text and

marks.

To save paper, you can check the table on page 9 to see which pages you need to print for each version of the pattern.

An A0 size file of the pattern is included for copyshop printing.


About Nio & NiaNio & Nia shorts and trousers are comfortable to wear and fit both boys and girls.

They are easy to put on and take off thanks to the elastic in the waisband,a paperbag waist can be added for girls

You can finish the hem of the trousers in 3 different ways: a regular hem, a cuffed hem or hem with elastic.There are 2 different lengths available for the shorts, a shorter version for the girls and a slightly longer

one for the boys.The matching shirt has dropped shoulders, you can choose to add short sleeves or a playful ruffle for girls. There are 4 options included for the neckline: a regular neckband, a v-shaped neckband, a button placket

at the front and a back slit with ties.These instructions offer you step-by-step drawings and directions to allow every seamstress, from beginner

to more experienced, sewing the garment of their choice.

Option overview

Elastic waisband or paperbag waist

Shorts with cuffed hems Short with regular hems

Trousers/shorts

Trousers with cuffed hems Trousers with regular hems Trousers with elastic at hems

Shirt

Short sleeves / ruffle

Regular neckband V-shaped neckband Front button placket Back slit with ties

Trousers with paperbag waist


Useful charts

Size chart

Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Height 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Chest 50 52 54 55 57 59 61 64 67 70 73 76 79 82

Hips 50 52 54 55 58 61 64 67 69 72 75 77 79 82

Measurements finished pieces

Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Chest shirt 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 73 76 79 82 85 88

Length shirt*neck to hem

31 32,7 34,7 36,7 38,5 40,5 42 44 45,7 47,5 49,7 51,8 54 56

Length trousers

39,5 44 48,5 53 58 63 67,5 73 78 83 86,5 90,5 94 97,5

Length shorts for boys

19 20,5 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 38 40,5 42,5 44,5 46,5

Length shorts for girls

18 19 20 21,5 22,5 24 25 26,5 28 29.5 31 32,5 34 35,5

Possible adaptations

Use pattern pieces without added seam allowance when adapting them.

Add seam allowance after the adaptations (see page 9)

THE NUMBERS TELL THE TALE!

Measure carefully before determining which size to make.

There can be differences between ready to wear sizes and sewing pattern sizes.

The chest circumference is the determining size for the shirt, the hip circumference is for the trousers/shorts, use those measurements as a starting point.

Between 2 sizes? Go for the bigger one.

This table offers an overview of how much ease is added to each size and the length of each garment. (measured from back neck to hem)

You can compare these measurements to a well fitted garment and make adaptations when necessary.


How to lenghten/shorten the trousers/shorts

Slide the two pieces away from each other until you reach the desired length.

Redraft the sideseam and inner leg seam as shown below.

Cut your front and back pattern pieces in two halfs, perpendicular to the straightgrain-line, a few centimeters above the cutting line for the

shorts.


Recommended fabricsThe trousers/shorts were drafted for soft, woven fabrics.

Eg. double gauze, cotton linen, poplin cotton, ...You can also use knit fabrics like french terry for a more sporty look.

The shirt can also be made both in wovens and knits.Eg. jersey, french terry, double gauze, linen, cotton, viscose, ...

If you use wovens, be sure to go for the front button placket or back slit for the shirt to fit over the head.

Required fabric amount

Fabric width: 140cm

Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Shorts 30 40 40 40 45 60 60 70 70 70 70 75 75 80

Trousers 50 60 65 70 70 90 95 100 110 110 120 120 130 140

Shirt Short sleeve

40 40 45 45 45 60 70 70 75 80 80 85 85 90

Ruffle 45 50 55 55 60 65 65 70 70 75 75 80 80 80


Pattern pieces

Version Pattern pieces

Trousers Shorts A, B, C, D (optional)

Trousers

Shirt Regular neckband short sleeves E, F, G, I

ruffle E, F, L, I

V-shaped neckband short sleeves E, F, G, J

ruffle E, F, L, J

Front button placket short sleeves E, F, G, K, N1 or N2

ruffle E, F, L, K, N1 or N2

Back slit with ties short sleeves E, F, G, M, O1 or O2

ruffle E, F, L, M, O1 or O2

Notions (depending on which versions you want to make)

Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Elastic for waist * (2.5cm up to size 122, 3cm for bigger

sizes)

45 47 49 50 51 53 55 57 59 60 62 63 64 65

Elastic for hemming trousers

2 x 17cm

2 x 17cm

2 x 19cm

2 x 20cm

2 x 21cm

2 x 22cm

2 x 23cm

2 x 23cm

2 x 23cm

2 x 24cm

2 x 24cm

2 x 25cm

2 x 25cm

2 x 26cm

Ties for back slit version

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

2 x 30cm

Tie for waist-band

30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 38 40 40 40

Fusible interfacing for

waistband

15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm

Fusible inter-facing for but-ton placket/

back slit

10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm 10cm

Buttons (for shirt with

front button placket)

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

* These are standard lenghts. If you can, measure the waist of your model and adapt length of elastic to that measurement

Don’t get intimidated by the amount of different pattern pieces.Use this table to see which pieces you need for which version.


Pages to print - all sizes

Size 80-92diaper proof

92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158

Front and back shorts

31-34 1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

1-4 & 6-9

Front and back trousers

31-34 1-4, 6-9 & 11-14

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 18-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

1-4, 6-9 & 11-14, 16-19

Waistband 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10 5 & 10

Pockets 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15 14-15

Front and back shirt

21-22 & 26-27

21-22 &

26-27

21-22 &

26-28

21-23 &

26-28

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

21-24 &

26-29

Short sleeve 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30 29-30

Ruffle 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25 23-25

Regular neck-band

20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20

V-shaped neckband

20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20

Button placket 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20

Back slit facing 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20

Neckband for button placket

option

24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25

Neckband for back slit option

24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25 24-25

Seam allowanceSeam allowance and hem allowance are not included.

Add the following seam and hem allowances:

Piece A: Front trousers (with cutting line for shorts)Piece B: Back trousers (with cutting line for shorts)Piece C: Waistband (regular or paperbag waist)Piece D: PocketPiece E: Front shirtPiece F: Back shirtPiece G: Short sleevePiece I: Regular neckbandPiece J: V-shaped neckbandPiece K: Button placketPiece L: RufflePiece M: Back slit facingPiece N1 or piece N2: Neckband for button placket optionPiece O1 or piece O2: Neckband for back slit option

1cm around - 4cm at hem1cm around - 4cm at hem0cm at fold - 1cm around

1cm around0cm at fold - 1cm around - 3cm at hem0cm at fold - 1cm around - 3cm at hem0cm at fold - 1cm around - 4cm at hem

0cm at fold - 1cm around0cm at fold - 1cm around

0cm around0cm at fold - 1cm around

0cm around0cm at fold - 1cm around0cm at fold - 1cm around

Find the test square on page 1, and how to tape pages together on page 36 of the pattern.Find the test square on page 1, and how to tape pages together on page 36 of the pattern.


Preparation of pattern pieces

Trousers

Mark stitch line for optical fly (if you want to create one)

Apply fusible interfacing to waistband Make button holes (if you want them)

Shirt

Mark center front and center back at neckline

Mark top center of sleeve OR top center of ruffle

Mark center front of regular neckband OR center back of v-shaped neckband

Mark center front of neckband for button placket option OR center front of back slit option

Apply fusible interfacing to button placket

Apply fusible interfacing to front shirt for the button placket (at the wrong side)

Apply fusible interfacing to back shirt for back slit (at the wrong side)

Apply fusible interfacing to back slit facing and mark stitching line at wrong side

Finish the seam of the facing with your serger or use a zigzag stitch.


Instructions

A. Trousers/shorts

Are you making the shorts?Cut the front and back trousers pattern pieces on the marked lines, there are different lines for boy’s and

girl’s shorts.Add seam and hem allowance.

Pieces A and B (front and back trousers)

Pattern pieces needed:

Part C1 or C2 (waistband trousers or waistband for paperbag waist option)

OPTIONAL: Piece D (pocket)

1. Adding pockets

Not adding pockets, go to step 2 on page 13.

Place pocket piece onto front trousers piece, right sides facing each other.Pin and stitch marked seam.


Fold pocket piece to the side, making sure the seam allowance faces the pocket piece and topstitch at 2mm from the edge.

Press pocket piece to the back of the trousers, making sure the pocket seam is nice

and flat.

Fold and press the pocket piece along the marked folding line.

This way, the pocket piece falls into place.

Fold the pocket piece away from the trousers and stitch the marked seam.

Finish this seam with your serger or use a zigzag stitch.

Baste pocket pieces into place (within seam allowance) as marked below to prevent them from

moving.


2. Crotch seams

Place front pieces of trousers on top of each other, right sides facing.

Pin and stitch crotch seam.Finish with your serger or use a zigzag stitch and

press.

Repeat for back pieces.

3. Side seams and inside leg seamsPin side seams and inside leg seams of front and back trousers together, right

sides facing.Stitch and finish with your serger or use a zigzagstitch.

Press seams.

Turn trousers right sides out.If you want to create an optical fly, stitch it on the line you marked at the front trousers.

A boy’s fly is stitched on the front piece that lies at your right hand (when the trousers are flat on the table), a girl’s fly is stitched on the other piece.


4. Preparing and adding waistband to trousers

Fold waistband in half, right sides facing. Pin and stitch short seam. Press.

Fold and press waisband in half along the long side to create a tunnel.

Slide your waistband over your trousers, aligning raw edges. Pin seam of waistband to side seam of trousers.

Stitch waistband into place, leave an opening of about 3cm for inserting your elastic.

Pull your elastic through the waistband, attach ends of elastic to each other and close the opening you left.

Finish seam with your serger or use a zigzag stitch.Fold waistband into place and press.

Optional:pull tie through the

buttonholes you made.

Attention!Did you add buttonholes?Make sure they are facing the right side of the trousers

when stitching the waistband into place.

Adding a paperbag waist?Stitch a line at 1.5cm from the top of the waistband, all the way around.


5. Hemming the trousers/shorts

5.1. Cuffed hem (trousers and shorts)

Press hem allowance 2cm outwards, right

sides facing.Repeat.

2cm + 2cm

Stitch in side seams to keep cuff into place.

5.2. Elastic in hems (trousers only)

Press hem allowance 1cm inwards (wrong sides facing).

Press 3cm inwards again.

Stitch into place at 2mm from the edge, leaving an opening of about

3cm for your elastic.

Pull elastic through hem, attach ends to each other and close

opening.

1cm + 3cm

Your trousers/shorts are finished!

5.3. Regular hem (shorts and trousers)

Press hem allowance 1cm inwards (wrong sides facing).

Press 3cm inwards again.

1cm + 3cm

Stitch and press hems.


B. Shirt

1. Shirt with regular neckband

Pieces E & F (front and back shirt)


Piece G (short sleeve) OR piece L (ruffle)

Piece I (regular neckband)

Pin shoulder seams of front and back shirt to each other, right sides facing.

Stitch.Press seams.

Shoulder seams

Fold neckband in half, right sides facing.

Pin and stitch short side.Press seam.

Fold and press neckband in half along the long side to create a tunnel.

Wrong sides facing.

Slide neckband over neckline, right sides facing each other.

Align raw edges of neckband with raw edge of neckline.

Pin center front and back of neckband to center front and

back of neckline.Pin the rest of the neckband by

slightly pulling it.Stitch all the way around.

Fold neckband into place and press.

Neckband

Go to step 5 on page 23.


2. Shirt with v-shaped neckband




Piece J (v-shaped neckband)

Fold neckband in half along the long side, right sides facing each other.

Pin and stitch 2 short sides.Clip corners.

Turn neckband right side out, pushcorners out and press flat.

Shoulder seams

Neckband

Pin neckband to neckline of shirt, right sides facing eacht other.

Align raw edges of the neckband with raw edge of neckline.

Start by pinning 1 side of neckband to neckline, 0.5cm over the center front

of neckband.

Continue by pinning center backs together and finish with the other side of the band which you also pin 0.5cm over center front so there’s an overlap

between the 2 ends.Baste stitch the overlap within

the seam allowance.

Stitch all the way around, fold and press neckpand into place.Topstitch with a stretch stitch at 2mm from the edge.


Stitch.Press seams.


3. Shirt with button placket




Piece K (Button placket)

Piece N1 OR piece N2 (Neckband for button placket option - knits or wovens )

Fold and press but-ton placket in half, wrong sides facing

and fold open again.

Press 1 long side 1cm inwards, wrong

sides facing.Repeat for the other

button placket.

Shoulder seams

Knopenpat



Stitch.Press seams.


Stitch onto your marked stitching line until the endpoint you marked.Backstitch.

Fold over the seam of the plackets and cut through the center front line exactly up to 1cm above your stitching from the previous step.

From that point, cut towards the ending of your placket stitchings.Be careful not to cut your stitchings ;-)

Fold over your seam allowance, don’t cut

it!

The front of your shirt looks like this:

Mark your stitching line on both but-ton plackets at 1cm from the edge.

Mark a line of about 10cm at the center front of your front shirt, at the wrong side of the fabric.

Mark the endline of your stitching, at 1.5cm from the bottom edge of the placket.

Pin both plackets exactly against the center front lines, as shown in the drawing below.


Push loose ends of both plackets through the opening towards the wrong side of your shirt, together with the little triangle you cut.

Boy’s closure: the button placket at your right hand (when the shirt is placed on the table in front of you) goes on top.

Girl’s closure: the left placket goes on top :-)

Fold your shirt in half, making sure the ‘triangle piece’ lies flat onto the

ends of the placket.

Stitch trangle to the ends of the placket, exactly from point to point.

Keep your shirt out of the way.

Fold shirt open again, finish the loose ends with your serger or use a zigzag stitch. Optionally, you can topstitch the ends like shown below.

Push the first placket all the way through the opening your cut, towards the front of the

shirt.Fold placket in half along the pressed center.

Pin so you just cover your stitches from the previous step.Stitch at 2mm from the edge, exactly towards the point

where your previous stitching ended and press well.

Fold the first placket to the side and repeat these steps for the second one.


Neckband

Press 1cm inwards on one long side, wrong sides facing.

Pin neckband to neckline, start pinning at 1 of the button plackets.

Fold the edge of your neckband 1cm over the placket, continue pinning all the way around, ending at the other placket.

Fold the edge of the neckband 1cm over the placket.

Stitch, fold neckband up and pin the side with the pressed cm just over your previous stitching line.

Topstitch at 2mm from the edge and your neckband is in place.


Make buttonholes and attach buttons or work with snaps.

4. Shirt with back slit and ties




Piece M (slit facing)

Piece O1 OR piece O2 (Neckband for back slit option - knits or wovens)

Shoulder seams

Slit


Pin slit facing to back piece of shirt, right sides facing each other, align centers.


Stitch.Press seams.


Stitch onto marked stitching line and cut through the center back all the way down.

Be careful not to cut your stitches.

Push facing through the opening towards the wrong side of the shirt and press well.

Secure facing by topstitching it at 2mm from the edge.

Attach neckband as mentioned on page 21.Insert the ends of your ties in the neckband openings at the sides of the slit and

stitch into place.

Neckband

5. Sleeves

ATTENTION!Are you making the ruffled version, skip this step and continue by closing the side seams as mentioned

in step 6 on page 24.

Pin sleeves to front and back bodice, right sides facing.Make sure the middle of the sleeves aligns with the shoulder seam.

Stitch and press seam.


Pin side seams and sleeve seams of front and back shirt together, right

sides facing.Stitch and finish seams.

Press seams and turn your shirt right side out.

6. Side seams

For the version with ruffles:pin and stitch side seams, finish and press seams and turn shirt right side

out.

Fold ruffle in half, right sides facing.

Pin and stitch short side.Press seam.

Finish short sides of ruffle with your serger or use a zigzag stitch.

7. Ruffle


Finish hem of ruffle with your serger or use a zigzag stitch, press hem 1cm inwards and stitch.

Press.

Stitch 2 gathering threads all the way aroundthe curved side of the ruffle, the first one at

presser foot width from the edge, the second one at presser foot width from the first one.

Gather by gently pulling the gathering threads and divide gathers evenly.Gather until the ruffle fits the armhole curve.

Secure gathering threads by turning them around a pin.

Turn ruffle wrong side out an slide over the armhole, right sides are facing each other.Align raw adges of ruffle and armhole.

Pin center ruffle to shoulder seam and back of ruffle to armhole seam.Stitch into place and finish seam with your serger or by using a zigzag stitch.

Fold ruffle into place and remove the gathering threads..

Press seams.Optional:

topstitch ruffle by folding seam allowance under the armhole (towards neckline) and

stitching at 2cm from armhole at the right side of the fabric.


8. Hemming

Press hem of sleeves 2cm outwards (right sides facing)Press 2cm outwards again and press. Stitch into place as shown below.

Optional: finish seam of shirt with your serger or by using a zigzag stitch.

Press seam 3cm inwards and stitch.Press.

Your shirt is finished!

2cm + 2cm

3cm

Thanks for testing my pattern: Katrien, Marie-Paule, Marieke, An, Ann-Sofie, Nele, Miet, Mandy, Daisy, Joke, Liesje, Sylvia, Nancy, Tine, Laura, Evelien, Sanne, Ans, Dineke, Evy, Mie-ke, Charlotte, Guus, Els, Charlotte, Nele, JeeWo, Sanne, Kelly, Kim, Emmely, Mieke, Grietje, Katja, Sane, Laura, Hanne, Kathleen, Linda, Imke, Sanne, Ruth, Wendy, Magali en Deborah!

A big thank you goes out to Ellen (@ellen_nellieellie), who planted the sead for this pattern and who’s son kindly gave his name to the pattern!

Feel like sharing your creation on social media?Use hashtags #niopattern and/or #niapattern for everyone to find your

handmademasterpieces!


www.beletoile.comwww.instagram.com/_beletoile_

www.facebook.com/beletoileblog

Documents

NIO&NIA...Back slit with ties short sleeves E, F, G, M, O1 or O2 ruffle E, F, L, M, O1 or O2 Notions (depending on which versions you want to make) Size 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122