Natural Hair

Natural hair is composed of3 yellow

2 red1 blue

Stages of Lift

Red Red Orange Orange Gold Yellow Pale Yellow

Formulation

To determine your level of color– desired color x 2– minus your natural level– equals your processing level

Level above 10– volume of peroxide

10 - 20 - 30 - 40

School of Thought Color - lift and deposit Color will not lift color Level 1

– all deposit , no lift Level 5

– approximately 1/2 lift & 1/2 deposit Level 9

– mostly lift, with some deposit

Factors to Consider

Condition of hair Underlying pigment

– warm or cool– undertones , dominant or underlying pigment

Desired color– deposit no lift– lift & deposit– mostly lift , some deposit

Lift

Maximum lift – 20 vol.

4 levels– over 4 levels

• requires• bleach or HL series

Peroxides

Developers - Oxidizer Purpose

– opens cuticle– allowing color into the cortex– oxidation

molecules enlarge become trapped

Strengths of Peroxide

5 volume– has to be made– used in filler formulas– pretreating gray hair– safest volume to use on chemically relaxed hair

Peroxide

10 vol– deposit only – no lift– used on severely damaged hair– highest vol. for chemically relaxed hair– low lighting

Peroxide

20 vol– needed to open cuticle– average strength– lift & deposit– coloring hair same level– used to lift 1 to 2 levels

Peroxide

30 vol.– medium amount lift– 2 to 3 levels

40 vol.– lift only– 3 to 4 levels– used w/ HL tints

Info

Strand test– formulation– processing time– prevents corrective color / loss of $$$$

Color lifts & deposits– oxidation– do not mix until ready for application

Info

Sensitive scalp– add pink packet of sugar substitute– color or bleach– contains anti-inflammatory

Porosity– most important factor– determines level depth , strength , application ,

timing

Info

Developer & color usually mixed in equal parts

2 to 1– double peroxide to color

Application– brush or bottle

Info

Application begins– most resistant area– gray hair– hot spots