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NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST
CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
Pompeii (p92) JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Plan Your Trip 4Welcome to Naples & the Amalfi Coast .................4
Top Sights ............................6
Eating .................................10
Drinking & Nightlife ..........12
Shopping ............................14
Archaeology ......................16
Architecture & Art ............ 17
Tours & Courses ...............18
For Kids ..............................19
Four Perfect Days ............ 20
Need to Know ................... 22
Naples & the Amalfi Coast Neighbourhoods .............. 24
Explore Naples & the Amalfi Coast 27Centro Storico.................. 29
Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli ............51
La Sanità & Capodimonte.................... 65
Santa Lucia & Chiaia ........77
Capri Town & the Isle of Capri ...............107
Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast ............. 121
Worth a TripCertosa e Museo di San Martino ...................74
Pompeii ............................. 92
Mt Vesuvius ...................... 98
Herculaneum (Ercolano) ....................... 100
Reggia di Caserta .......... 104
Survival Guide 143Before You Go ................ 144
Arriving in Naples ...........145
Getting Around .............. 146
Essential Information ... 148
Language .........................152
Index ................................ 156
Special FeaturesCapella Sansevero ........... 30
Duomo ............................... 32
Museo Archeologico Nazionale .......................... 52
Palazzo Reale ................... 56
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte ............... 66
Historic Villas ................. 108
Positano ...........................122
Ravello ..............................128
Naples is raw, high-octane energy, a place of soul-stirring art and pano-ramas, spontaneous conversations and unexpected elegance. It’s here that you’ll find Italy’s most intoxicating street life, and many of its most extraordinary paintings, sculptures and architectural treasures, not to mention its finest pizza and espresso. Beyond it lies the seraphic Amalfi Coast, seducer of artists and hopeless romantics for centuries.
Welcome to Naples & the Amalfi Coast
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Museo Archeologico NazionalePriceless ancient art and artefacts. p52
Top SightsB
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Palazzo Reale di CapodimonteMasterpieces in a Bourbon palace. p66
PompeiiA town frozen in time. p92
Capella SanseveroExtraordinary sculptures, legend and alchemy. p30
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Certosa e Museo di San MartinoHilltop monastery treasures. p74
Capri VillasEvocative, legend-laced island hideaways. p108
Palazzo RealeA treasure-filled royal palace. p56
Reggia di CasertaItaly’s largest, most breathtaking palace. p104
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Plan Your Trip Top S
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PositanoThe Amalfi Coast’s photogenic protagonist. p122
RavelloTerraced gardens and famous fans. p128
DuomoNaples’ glorious, centuries- spanning cathedral. p32
Herculaneum (Ercolano)A compact Roman time machine. p100
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Start with a burst of baroque in the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo (pictured above; p38), clear your mind in the majolica-tiled cloister of the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chi-ara (p38), then pay tribute to the magnificent Cristo ve-lato sculpture inside Cappella Sansevero (p30).After lunch at Tandem (p41) or Salumeria (p41), lose yourself in ancient mosaics and marble brawn at the blockbuster Mu-seo Archeologico Nazionale (p52) or critique contemporary art at MADRE (p39). If there’s still time, take in the vainglori-ous Duomo (p32) before dinner at Donna Romita (p41) or standout pizzeria Concet-tina Ai Tre Santi (p70). For a nightcap, hit the bars on Piazza Bellini (p150).
Day 1
Nibble on a sfogliatella from Sfogliatella Mary (p61) while detouring through Galleria Umberto I (p60) to Caffè Gambrinus (p62) for morning espresso. Catch the nearby shuttle bus to Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte (p66), a palace crammed with priceless artworks.After a casual lunch at Da Luisa (p67), tour the ancient Catacombe di San Gen-naro (p69), then scale Castel dell’Ovo (pictured above; p82) for a sea-and-city panorama. Rehydrate at lo-fi waterfront bar Al Barcadero (p88) before feasting on seafood at Officina del Mare (p86). Alternatively, hit trendy Chiaia for aperitivo at Barril (p87) or Cantine Sociali (p88) and dinner at Dialetti (p85).
Day 2
Four Perfect Days
Plan Your Trip Four P
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On day three, hop on a hydrofoil to fabled Capri. Turn up before the day trippers descend and join the local who’s-who brigade at the emblematic square La Piazzetta. Leave the surrounding sophisticated strut of shops behind as you head to Giardini di Augusto (p114), with flower-filled terraces and some of the best views on the island. Enjoy a lazy lunch at Il Geranio (p115) or È Divino (p115), then head up to Anaca-pri for a bewitching chairlift ride to Monte Solaro (pictured above). The peak can also be reached on foot; one of many beautiful hikes on Capri.Back in Naples, call ahead to reserve a table at classic Da Ettore (p84) or wine bar L’Ebbrezza di Noè (p84).
Day 3
Travel back two millennia on day four at the ruins of Pompeii (p92), easily reached from Na-ples by Circumvesuviana train. Highlights include the Villa dei Misteri (p93), home to one of the largest, most impressive wall paintings from ancient times. Lunch at deli-eatery Melius or Michelin-starred President (p93) before slurp-ing superlative caffè at Cam-pania’s first specialty-coffee roastery Campana (p13).Wrap things up with an (in sea-son) opera or ballet at Naples’ world-famous Teatro San Carlo (pictured above; p59) be-fore toasting to your Neapolitan sojourn at cognoscenti cocktail den L’Antiquario (p87).
Day 4
Plan Your Trip Four P
erfect Days
21
Need to KnowFor detailed information, see Survival Guide p143
LanguageItalian
CurrencyEuro (€)
VisasGenerally not required for stays of up to 90 days (or at all for EU nationals); some nationalities need a Schengen visa.
MoneyATMs at Naples’ Capodichino airport and major train stations; widely available in towns and cities. Credit cards accepted in most hotels and restaurants.
Mobile PhonesLocal SIM cards can be used in European, Australian and some unlocked US phones. Other phones must be set to roaming.
TimeCentral European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)
Daily Budget
Budget: Less than €100Dorm bed: €15–30
Double room in a budget hotel: €50–110
Pizza or pasta lunch/dinner: €15
Bus, metro or funicular ticket: €1.10
Return train ticket to Pompeii: €5.60
Midrange: €100–200Double room in a midrange hotel: €80–180
Lunch and dinner in a local restaurant: €25–50
Three-day Artecard pass: €21
Return express-train ticket to Pompeii: €11
Top end: More than €200Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €150–450
Top restaurant dinner: €50–120
Hydrofoil to Capri: €21.50 (one-way)
Advance PlanningTwo months before Book your hotel and any tickets for the Teatro San Carlo.One month before Book any cooking courses and email the Biblioteca Nazionale to organise access to its ancient papyri.One to two weeks before Email the Museo delle Arti Sanitarie for an English-language tour of the Farmacia Storica degli Incurabili. Book tickets to the Cappella Sansevero and tables at higher-end restaurants, especially on Capri and the Amalfi Coast in high season.
Plan Your Trip N
eed to Know
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Naples is a city of hidden wonders, legend and contrasts, and no corner of the city illustrates this more than the centro storico. Thread your way from Port’Alba to the Duomo through a heady, evocative maze where ancient ruins rub shoulders with bohemian bars and boutiques, enigmatic sculptures and frescoes, and the odd secret cloister.
Walking Tour c
Walk FactsStart Port’Alba; mDanteEnd Duomo; mPiazza CavourLength 1.8km; 2½ hours
A World Heritage Wander
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most bewitching destinations. Mountains plunge into the sea in a nail-biting vertical scene of crags, cliff-clinging abodes and verdant woodland. From precipitous Positano to lofty Ravello, its string of fabled towns read like a Hollywood cast list. Its western gateway is Sorrento, a handsome clifftop resort that, despite the package tourism, retains its seductive southern soul.
Sorrento’s bustling heart is Piazza Tasso, with many of the town’s sights in the streets of the centro storico (p134) directly to the west of it. These include the Basilica di Sant’Antonino (p136) and the Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea (p135). The town’s best bathing spot, Bagni Regina Giovanna (p135), is also to the west, though further out of town. East of Sorrento, both the Amalfi Coast jewels of Positano (p122) and Ravello (p128) can be tackled as day trips, though it’s worth spending a night in each to slow down the pace and properly soak up their charms.
Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast
Explore Y
Getting There & AroundL Circumvesuviana trains run to Naples via Pompeii and Ercolano.J SITA Sud buses serve Naples and the Amalfi Coast, leaving from the bus station across from the Circumvesuviana train station.N Sorrento is the main jumping-off point for Capri and also has ferry connections to Naples and Amalfi coastal resorts during the summer months.
Sorrento Map on p132
View of Amalfi Coast from Ravello (p128) J AV E N /S H U T T E R STO C K ©
121
Deluxe, dramatic Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s pin-up, its vertiginous houses tumbling down to the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink and terracotta. Its steep streets and steps are no less photogenic, flanked by wisteria-draped ho-tels, smart restaurants and fashionable boutiques. Yet, despite its celebrity status, a southern-Italian holiday feel lingers, from its crumbling stucco to its pizza-chowing sunbathers.
Top Sight APositano
Tourist Office%089 87 50 67www.aziendaturismo positano.itVia Regina Giovanna 13h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year
Index See also separate subindexes for:
5 Eating pxxx6 Drinking pxxx3 Entertainment pXXX7 Shopping pXXX
Aaccessible travel
148-9accommodation 144-5airports 145-6Amalfi Coast 121-41,
132-3drinking 139-40food 137-9shopping 140-1sights 122-31, 134-7transport 121
Anfiteatro 97aperitivi 13, 88archaeological sites &
ruins 16, see also individual sites
architecture 17area codes 151art 17, 83ATMs 150
BBagni Regina
Giovanna 135baroque art 17Barrel Arches 103Basilica di San
Lorenzo Maggiore 35
Basilica di Santa Restituta 33
Basilica di Sant’Antonino 136
Basilica Santa Maria della Sanità & Catacombe di San Gaudioso 69
bathrooms 151Battistero di San
Giovanni in Fonte 33
Biblioteca Nazionale 57
boat travel 148Borgo Orefici 48-9,
48bus travel 141, 147business hours 149
CCapella di San
Gennaro 33Cappella Sansevero
30-1, 35Capodimonte 65-71,
68food 70-1shopping 71sights 66-7, 69-70transport 65
Capri Town 107-17, 112-13
drinking 117food 115-17
shopping 117sights 108-11, 114transport 107
car travel 148Casa dei Vettii
94, 96Casa del Fauno 94Casa del
Menandro 96Casa del Poeta
Tragico 94Casa del Tramezzo di
Legno 103Casa dello Scheletro
101Casa di Nettuno e
Anfitrite 102Castel dell’Ovo 79,
82-3Castel Nuovo 60-1Catacombe di San
Gennaro 69cell phones 22, 151Centro Storico 29-47,
34, 36-7drinking 44-6food 41-4itineraries 34-5shopping 46-7sights 30-3,
38-40transport 29walks 34-5
Certosa di San Giacomo 114
Certosa e Museo di San Martino 74-5
Chiaia 77-89, 78, 80-1drinking 87-8entertainment 88food 84-7shopping 88-9sights 82-4transport 77walks 78-9
Chiesa & Chiostro di San Francesco 136
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo 38
Chiesa della Certosa 75
Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore 38-9
Chiesa di San Giovanni a Mare 49
Chiesa di San Pietro a Maiella 35
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta 123
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine 49
Chiesa di Santa Teresa a Chiaia 79
Chiesa di Sant’Eligio Maggiore 49
See also separate subindexes for:
5 Eating p1586 Drinking p1583 Entertainment p1587 Shopping p159
Sights 000Map Pages 000
Index156
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Chiesa di Santo Stefano 114
Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno 35, 40
children, travel with 19
Chiostro Grande 75Cimitero delle
Fontanelle 69climate 144clubs 13cocktails 13coffee 12, 13Complesso
Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore 39
Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara 38
cooking courses 18Naples 85Ravello 129Sorrento 137
costs 22, 149-50crafts 15credit cards 150Cristo velato 31currency 22
Ddangers, see safetyDecumano Massimo
102design 15desserts 10disabilities, travellers
with 148-9discount cards
149-50
drinking 12-13, see also individual neighbourhoods, Drinking subindex
drinks 12, 13driving, see car travelDuomo (Naples)
32-3, 35Duomo (Sorrento)
136-7
Eelectricity 150emergencies 150entertainment,
see individual neighbourhoods, Entertainment subindex
Ercole (Hercules) 53etiquette 149
Ffamily travel 19fashion 15ferry travel 148food 10-11, 15, see
also individual neighbourhoods, Eating subindex
Foro 93Franco Senesi 123frescoes 31, 54funicular travel 147-8
GGalleria Borbonica
82Galleria Lia Rumma
83Galleria Umberto I
60Gallerie d’Italia –
Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano 59-60
galleries 17gardens 114, 129gay travellers 150Giardini di Augusto
114
Grotta Azzurra 115
HHerculaneum
(Ercolano) 100-3, 102
highlights 6-9hiking, see also walks
Positano 127Ravello 131
history 16holidays 150-1horse riding 99hydrofoil travel 148
IIl Vallone dei Mulino
135-6immigration 151Isle of Capri 107-17,
112-13drinking 117food 115-17shopping 117sights 108-11, 114transport 107
Isola di Vivara 119Italian language 152-3itineraries 20-1
Borgo Orefici 48-9, 48
Centro Storico 34-5, 35
Chiaia 78-9, 78Mercato 48-9, 48Mergellina 90-1, 90Positano 127Ravello 131Santa Lucia 78-9,
78Vomero 72-3, 72
LLa Sanità 65-71, 68
food 70-1shopping 71sights 66-7, 69-70transport 65
La Torretta di Mergellina 91
language 152-3lesbian travellers 150LGBT travellers 150limoncello 12Lungomare 83Lupanare 96
MMADRE 39-40Marina Chiaiolella
119Marina Corricella
119Marina Grande 134Mercato 48-9, 48Mergellina 90-1, 90metro travel 146-7Minori 131mobile phones 22, 151Molo Luise 91money 22, 149, 150mosaics 53motorcycle travel
148Mt Vesuvius 98-9Munthe, Axel 111Museo Archeologico
Nazionale 52-5, 55
Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea 135
Museo Correale di Terranova 135
Museo del Corallo Camo 131
Museo delle Arti Sanitarie 40
Museo di Capodimonte 67
Museo Pignatelli 82
Index157
NNapoli Sotterranea
40-1nightlife 12-13
Oopening hours 149
Ppalaces 17Palazzo dello
Spagnolo 69-70Palazzo Mannajuolo
79, 82Palazzo Murat 123Palazzo Reale 56-7Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte 66-7
Palazzo Sanfelice 70Parco di
Capodimonte 67Parco Nazionale del
Vesuvio 99Parco Reale 105passports 151pasta 10Piazza Bellini 35Piazza dei Martiri 79Piazza Duomo
130-1Piazza Olmo 119Piazza Umberto I 114Piazza Vanvitelli 73Piazzetta del Leone
91pickpocketing 151Pio Monte della
Misericordia 38pizza 10, 11planning 22-3
Pompeii 92-7, 95Port’Alba 35Positano 122-7, 125Procida Island 118-19,
118public holidays 150-1
QQuartieri Spagnoli
51-63, 58drinking 62-3entertainment 63food 61-2shopping 63sights 52-7, 59-61transport 51
RRavello 128-31, 130Reggia di Caserta
104-5Rocco, Gregorio
Maria 43
Ssafety 151Salto di Tiberio 111Santa Lucia 77-89,
78, 80-1drinking 87-8entertainment 88food 84-7shopping 88-9sights 82-4transport 77walks 78-9
Santa Maria del Castello Circuit 127
Scala 131seafood 11Sede degli Augustali
101Sedile Dominova
136
shopping 14-15, see also individual neighbourhoods, Shopping subindex
shrines 43SITA buses 141Sorrento 121-41,
132-3drinking 139-40food 137-9shopping 140-1sights 134-7transport 121
Spiaggia del Fornillo 124
Spiaggia di Chiaia 119
Spiaggia Grande 124
Ttaxes 14taxis 148Teatro Grande 97Teatro San Carlo 59telephone services
22, 151Terme Femminili 103Terme Maschili 101Terme Stabiane 93-4Terra Murata 119theft 151Thomas Dane
Gallery 83Tiberius, Emperor 111time 22tipping 150Toffini Academy 85toilets 151Toledo 51-63, 58
drinking 62-3entertainment 63food 61-2shopping 63sights 52-7, 59-61transport 51
Toledo Metro Station 60
top sights 6-9Toro Farnese 53Torre-Museo 129tourist information 151tours 18train travel 146-7transport 23, 145-8
Vvacations 150-1Via Giordano 73Via Partenope 79Via Scarlatti 73Vico San Domenico
Maggiore 35Villa Cimbrone 130Villa Comunale 79,
83-4Villa Comunale Park
137Villa dei Misteri 93Villa Jovis 109, 111Villa Lysis 109Villa Maria 79Villa Rufolo 129Villa San Michele di
Axel Munthe 111villas 17, 108-11visas 22, 151Vomero 72-3, 72
Wwalks
Borgo Orefici 48-9, 48
Centro Storico 34-5, 35
Chiaia 78-9, 78Mercato 48-9, 48Mergellina 90-1, 90Positano 127Ravello 131
Sights 000Map Pages 000
Index158
Santa Lucia 78-9, 78Vomero 72-3, 72
weather 144websites 144wine 13
5 EatingAi Monti Lattari 60Al Grottino 116Antica Cantina
Sepe 71Antica Osteria Da
Tonino 85Antica Pizza Fritta
da Zia Esterina Sorbillo 61-2
Antica Pizzeria e Trattoria al ’22 61
AZZ! 138Babel 129Casa Mele 126C’era Una Volta 127Chalet Ciro
Mergellina 91Cibi Cotti 91Concettina Ai Tre
Santi 70-1Da Emilia 137Da Ettore 84, 87Da Luisa 67Da Salvatore 129Di Matteo 33Dialetti 85Donna Romita 41Donna Rosa 127È Divino 115-16Friggitoria Vomero 75Gay-Odin 43Gelateria David 137Il Geranio 115Inn Bufalito 139La Cambusa 126
La Campagnola 33La Cantinaccia del
Popolo 138La Capannina 117La Conchiglia 119La Pignasecca 60La Stanza del Gusto
53Le Arcate 109L’Ebbrezza di Noè
84-5Lo Sfizio 109Martucci 105Next2 126’O Sfizio 42Officina del Mare 86O’Puledrone 137Osteria della
Mattonella 61Pasticceria
Mennella 85Pasticceria
Poppella 71Pescheria Mattiucci
86Pizzeria Da Franco
138Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
41Pizzeria Starita 71President 93Raffaele Buonacore
116Ristorantino
dell’Avvocato 86-7Salumeria 41Scaturchio 57Serafino 43Sfogliatella Mary
61Soul & Fish 138Tandem 41Trattoria Castel
dell’Ovo 86
Trattoria Mangia e Bevi 43-4
Trattoria San Ferdinando 57
Vero GastroBar 42Viva Lo Re 101Zi’Ntonio 138-9
6 DrinkingAl Barcadero 88Ba-Bar 87Bar dal Cavaliere 119Bar Internazionale 127Barril 87Bollicine 140Cafè Latino 140Caffè dell’Epoca 44Caffè Gambrinus 62Caffè Mexico 63Cantine Sociali 88D’Anton 139Il Birraiuolo 62-3Jamón 44La Pergola 140L’Antiquario 87Libreria Berisio
45-6Palazzo Venezia
Napoli 45Shanti Art Musik
Bar 45Spazio Nea 44Superfly 45Syrenuse Bar 140Taverna Anema e
Core 117Ventimetriquadri 73
3EntertainmentAssociazione Scarlatti
88Bourbon Street 63
Centro di Musica Antica Pietà de’ Turchini 63
Music on the Rocks 123Spazio Intolab 45
7 ShoppingAnna Matuozzo 91Asad Ventrella:
Contemporastudio 88-9
Bottega 21 46, 140Carthusia I Profumi di
Capri 117Ceramiche Maria
Grazia 124Da Costanzo 117E. Marinella 79Fratelli D’Angelo di
Donato 49Kiphy 47La Bottega di Brunella
124La Botteguccia de
Giovanni 124La Parissienne 117La Scarabattola
46-7Limonè 47Livio De Simone 89MAC Ceramics 47Mattana Design 89Mercatino di
Antignano 73Mercato di Porta
Nolana 49Omega 71Piazzetta Orefici 49Riot Laundry Bar 73Scriptura 47Stinga 141Talarico 63Terrerosse 141
Index159
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541531st edition – Apr 2019ISBN 978 1 78868 116 2© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in MalaysiaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun-tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Cristian BonettoCristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Plan-et guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne.
Our Writers
Brendan SainsburyBorn and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet about places ranging from from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.
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