¥0nagazasshi

Nagasaki’s best eateries revealed in our gourmet special

NagasakiGourmetSpecial

nagazasshi

www.nagazasshi.com

Volume 8 Issue 2September/October 2015

Cover PhotoKakuni Don (Pork Belly Rice Bowl)

flickr.com/pancakeplan

FoundersAndrew Morris

Matthew Nelson

Over the years, the Nagazasshi has certainly planted ideas, and watered them with opinions,

with articles not only about topics dear to Nagasaki’s heart – such as Okunchi and the lantern festival – but also about travelling throughout Asia, and complex issues such as racial identity in Japan.

As I take the helm as Nagazasshi’s editor in chief, I look forward to seeing this eclectic archive grow. However, in this issue, the Nagasaki Gourmet Special, I wanted to address our founders’ other wishes – to reap knowledge and share others’ experiences.

As such, based on reader contributions from across Nagasaki-ken, we’ve created the “Nagazasshi Gourmet Issue” to helpyou discover the prefectures culinary gems. Plus, we shine a light on a staff favourite, the Italian restaurant Famiglia (p. 6). And, for dessert, our usual features.

Happy eating, and happy reading!

Jennifer Edwards,Editor-in-chief

Dan CohenJenni EdwardsEvan HaydenConor Hughes

Will Morgan Joy Tan

Stuart WebsterLaurel Williams

Our hope for this maga-zine is to be fertile ground for planting ideas, watering them with opinions and eventually reaping knowledge and ben-efitting from the experiences of the people who have the pleasure to call this place home

Editor-in-chiefJenni Edwards

EditorRosie Fordham

Layout and DesignLaurel Williams

Assistant EditorLorna Hanson

Public RelationsConor Hughes

Copy EditorMax Epstein

TreasurerKarl Po

Contributors

”

“

– Nagazasshi 1.1

ContentsEvents

13

4

Forza FamigliaGet acquainted with Famiglia’s Kenichi Iwanaga

6

Brave the backstreets for great cakes at KamandoCafé Caches

15Kanji of the Month

4

9Set a course for great food with our Gourmet Map

Nagasaki Gourmet Food Map

9

13

Photo credits(top to bottom):Kamando goodsJoy Tan; Yakinikuflickr.com/jonolist; Famiglia pasta dish Evan Hayden; Yosakoi Dance Stuart Webster

6

Event ofthe MonthYosakoi SaseboMatsuriOctober 16-18SaseboOne of the biggest Yosakoi dancefestivals around. Teams from all overthe world gather in Sasebo to competeand perform across the city.

The event culminates in one final dance off onthe main stage at Nakiri Ground.

Events

5

ph

oto

Stua

rt We

bste

r

Annual Nagasaki Moon FestivalMid-September, Chinatown and Minato Park, NagasakiA Chinese festival celebrating the full moon. Many Chinese restaurants will serve special meals. Dragon dance, live music and more!

Doya Tamate FestivalSeptember 20MatsuuraA picturesque festival of lights, illumi-nating Matsura’s famous terraced rice fields.

Nagasaki Confucius FestivalSeptember 26Confucius Shrine, NagasakiA traditional Chinese celebration of Confucius’ birthday at this impressive shrine.

Nagasaki Settlement FestivalLate SeptemberGlover Garden, Nagasaki Celebrating Nagasaki’s heritage as one of the first landing points for foreigners. Various displays from foreign cultures, food, music and dance.

Nagasaki Okunchi FestivalOctober 7 - 9, 16 - 17Suwa Shrine, NagasakiOne of the biggest festivals in Japan. Multicultural performances, dances, and music to celebrate the autumn harvest.

Takengei Bamboo PerformanceOctober 14 - 15Wakayama Inari Shrine, NagasakiAn autumn acrobatics event wherein two performers dressed as foxes dazzle a crowd atop 10-meter bamboo poles.

Famiglia1F Matsumoto Bldg., 2−6, Kajiymachi Nagasaki-shi 〒850-0831( TEL 095-823-3711

photos Evan Hayden

Forza Famiglia!

nagazasshi | September/October 2015 7

Nagasaki. Excellent city, excellent food, good people. One of the things you may have noticed

about our fair city is that it’s got a lot of personality. Every cafe, restaurant, izakaya and ramen shop you stumble into is as vibrant and unique as the people you’ll meet on the street.

Burrowed into one of the labyrinthine alleyways off the central arcade in Hamanomachi, the restaurant Famiglia has been meticulously cultivating a reputation for fine Italian cuisine and warm atmosphere for nearly a decade. Yet despite its devout clientele and general success, Famiglia, like many great culinary creations, started as sort of an accident.

Fueled by his love of fast cars and Italian culture, the young Kenichi Iwanaga (“Ken” to his friends) originally intended to be a concept car designer. However, he had a change of heart in university and, without a back-up plan, decided to travel the world.

It was in Australia that Ken eventually discovered his true calling as a chef. It was the casual atmosphere of Australian restaurants and bars that struck Ken – watering holes that knew no boundaries between language or culture, where

everyone could come together and, even if only temporarily, be a family.

Ken’s travels continued, leading him to Italy. In the countryside of Sardinia, Ken studied the finer points of Italian cooking in one of the most perilous crucibles of education – the kitchens of Italian grandmothers.

For years, Ken honed his culinary craft while the nascent idea of what would one day be Famiglia took shape in his mind.

Ten years later, Famiglia’s menu and atmosphere demonstrate the influence of Ken’s travels. Everything that comes

out of the kitchen is meticulously scrutinized by Ken’s uncompromising eye, and the patron’s gastronomic experience is all the

better for it.

Italian tradition dictates a dogmatic reverence for natural, simple ingredients and their exclusive use. Consequently, nearly everything on the menu is a product of natural ingredients grown by Ken personally at his family farm in Unzen.

The very bread on your table was once wheat in Ken’s field – reaped, ground to flour and then baked for your dining pleasure.

Ken doesn’t consider Famiglia to have a “signature” dish, although he does

“ Famiglia, like manygreat culinary creations, started as sort of anaccident ”

Conor Hughes on Nagasaki City’s own Italian institution, Famiglia.

8 September/October 2015 | nagazasshi

personally. Insulated from the hustle and bustle of Nagasaki nightlife outside, guests may sit at cozy, private tables or at the more conversational central counter.

The rustic aesthetic of the interior feel is complemented by the Mediterranean sounds of Italy’s own Rai Uno Radio piping gently into the evening, serenading the guests.

At the counter, customers banter with Ken and each other, swapping stories and discussing the eclectic miscellany of memorabilia and supplies scattered around the restaurant. Friends, coworkers and couples unwind over wine and cheese at their tables, discussing the events of the day. All throughout, Ken smiles behind the counter while he juggles cooking and conversation.

In Nagasaki, where so many eateries have character, Famiglia shines for being so personal, welcoming and so Italian. Famiglia is a quiet island of slow food, serenity and family in the beating heart of a big city. A place where Japanese and Italian culture join in beautiful harmony.

Monday through Saturday, from six in the evening until two in the morning, all are welcome to the good food and fellowship of Famiglia.

confess that his Gnocchi alla Gorgonzola is consistently the most popular.

The potato-based gnocchi are light, bursting with savory flavor and a fluffy texture, effortlessly dissolving in your mouth. The cheese sauce is smooth and creamy, complementing the gnocchi with its delicate flavors and the subtle bite of the Gorgonzola.

When all the gnocchi are gone, and all that’s left before you is a plate of cream sauce, that marvelous bread mentioned earlier serves as a more than adequate means to enjoy every drop.

True to Ken’s vision, Famiglia is not just a place to eat. There is a distinctly warm and welcoming feel to the restaurant itself. During the day, with sunshine streaming through the windows, and the pitter-patter of Ken’s young daughters scampering throughout the restaurant, Famiglia invokes feelings no doubt similar to those of the grandmothers’ kitchens that Ken practiced in all those years ago. With a cool glass of juice in hand to combat the fierce daytime heat, Ken works in the kitchen while his wife works at the counter, so to better watch over their girls.

When the sun goes down and the doors open up, customers are greeted by Ken n

nagazasshi | September/October 2015 9

you can dine for under 1,000 yen. We’ve even included a few cafes with food worth shouting about.

Instead, we wanted to take you off the beaten track, to highlight hidden gems so special that we hope they’ll tempt you travel to a different part of Nagasaki to appreciate them.

A note on our selection process – we owe a great debt of thanks to all of the members of the Nagasaki community who took the time to contribute suggestions. Of the huge number of recommendations received, we only had room for 20 in this issue. However, you can find the full version of the map online at:

Finally, it’s worth noting that opening hours may vary, and many of our suggested eateries have limited seating, so do please call ahead of your visit to double check, and make a reservation if needed.

Japan is globally renowned for its great food. Not only does its capital boast the greatest number of

Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but its traditional cuisine, “washoku,” is listed by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage.

However, you don’t have to go to Tokyo, or even eat washoku, to enjoy amazing Japanese food. You need only step out of your door, onto the streets of Nagasaki. Whether it’s the influence of the prefecture’s international past, or the unique nature of its friendly, inquisitive people, the Nagasaki culinary scene really is rather special.

Our goal in creating the Nagazasshi Gourmet Map is not to be an exhaustive record of all of the prefecture’s great eateries. Were that the case, we would have a lifetime’s job on our hands! Nor is it necessarily to champion only fine dining or expensive “occasion” restaurants – at many of our recommended eateries,

photo flickr.com/insertmagaprose Jenni Edwardsmaps Laurel Williams

NagasakiGourmet Map

8 www.facebook.com/nagazasshi

n

Our prefecture’s finest eateries revealed

1010

Neimans4-18 ChuomachiGoto-shi 〒853-0002

An upscale café serving delicious sandwich-es, French toast and a selection of coffees, teas and smoothies.

Goto五島S

1

Hirado平戸

Mike’s4-8 ShimokyomachiSasebo-shi 〒857-0875

Huge portion sizes, abundant jalapenos, fresh guac and chips and huge margheritas galore. Meaty feasts and vegan options mean there’s something for everyone.

3rd Base Cafe526-2 Tabiracho OkubomenHirado-shi 〒859-4821

Chill on a hammock while you wait for your meal made from local ingredients. Free Ukulele lessons on Wednesday nights.

The Sea View Ranch35 KawachichoHirado-shi 〒859-5132

Old West-style restaurant serving Hirado-raised beef dishes and decadent desserts. They even offer horse riding lessons.

Mucus1-5 MantokuchoSasebo-shi 〒857-0034

Don’t let the name put you off! This café, run by one woman, is a great place to enjoy lunch.

Kebab Stand Plus4-12 TokiwachoSasebo-shi 〒857-0053

Craving a kebab? The mixed meat with spicy sauce should do the trick.

S

S

SS

S

S

1

2

3

4

5

6

S

Sasebo佐世保

2S

3

September/October 2015 | nagazasshi

nagazasshi | September/October 2015 11

Nagasaki長崎

Taji6-18 NakazonomachiNagasaki-shi 〒852-8155

A staff favourite – this curry house offers hearty sets offering an authentic Indian taste. The peanut butter naan and butter chicken are not to be missed.

Dimples2-15 GotomachiNagasaki-shi 〒850-0036

This Spanish/Japanese fusion restaurant offers beautifully seasoned and spiced zesty food in a fun and vibrant setting. Phenomenal course meals.

Famiglia1F Matsumoto Bldg., 2−6, Kajiymachi Nagasaki-shi 〒850-0831

Some of the best Italian food we’ve eaten – both in and out of Japan. See page 6 for our full review.

Franpa1 Chome-38-6 HayamaNagasaki-shi 〒852-8053

Michinoo-based cafe serving lamb, snails and proper pate. This hidden gem is famed for its “one coin” lunch set – 500 yen for the daily dish.

Steak Salon1-3 ShiohamachoSasebo-shi 〒857-0876

A small restaurant offering some of the best steaks in Kyushu. 2,500 yen buys you a full course meal with a huge cut of Nagasaki beef.

Kaya Burger113-2 YamatochoSasebo-shi 〒857-1165

Far from town, but oh so popular. Ringing ahead with your order is recommended. Worth it for the prefecture’s tastiest burger.

S

S

S S

S

S

7

8

9

10

11

12S

4

S5

S

6

S7

S

8

S9 S

S11

10 S

S13

12S14

S

15

12 September/October 2015 | nagazasshi

Kukai905-33 Kitahonmachi ObamachoUnzen-shi 〒854-0514

Part of the “slow food” movement, the menu seasonally changes. The pizzas, with flavours like black pepper and honey, are fantastic.

Mar Sala2395-1 KuchinotsuchokoMinamishimabara-shi 〒859-2502

Minutes by car from some of the hanto’s best beaches, Mar Sala offers beautiful views and delicious, authentic Italian food at fair prices.

Yama no Tera Yukyo3988-22 FukaechoboMinamishimabara-shi 〒859-1505

Gaze upon the Ariake Sea while you eat char-grilled chicken and home-grown vegetable tempura. Gorgeous view.

A Burgers Café4338-6 HonkojimachiShimabara-shi 〒855-0073

Phenomenal burgers in an American Diner setting. The avocado cheeseburger is the best.

Café Salle a Manger172 HorimachiShimabara-shi 〒855-0805

Jazz cafe offering world cuisine including Italian, Mexican, and Thai. The Santa Fe burger is a great start.

Omusubi Hazuki2F 9-2 HamanomachiNagasaki-shi 〒850-0853

This Hamanomachi café offers a hearty lunch set with daily side dishes. The best is, of course, huge onigiri with your choice of filling.

HiiragiHana Bldg 1F 6-8 DozamachiNagasaki-shi 〒850-0841

A Shianbashi post-nomikai pitstop – its

signature tomato ramen, topped with crispy eggplant, can be enjoyed any time of day.

Café Ripple2785 WakimisakimachiNagasaki-shi 〒851-0506

Found on the southernmost tip of Naga-saki prefecture, this cafe specialises in local ingredients.

Shimabara島原半島

The Nagazasshi staff would like to thank our contributors:Dan Cohen, Sean Daeley, Francesca Discenza, Christine Hou, Emily Maitland, Kim Miglino, Jess Richards, Nico Sandoval, Sayaka Takahashi,

Kate Williams, Matthew Wypycha, and Masako Wypycha.

S

S

S

S

S S

S

S

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

S

16

S17

S

19

S

18

S

20

Hanto

nagazasshi | September/October 2015 13

Kamando, in Nishi-Isahaya, is

first and foremost a bakery. This year marks a decade since it opened and its popularity among the locals has only continued to grow.

And, this quaint shop’s popularity is not unfounded. The bread they offer never

fails to deliver in freshness and flavor. Most popular is Kamando’s curry bread, a lightly breaded and yet crispy bun filled with thick chunks of beef steak and potatoes. Its maple honey roll is also

favored by the locals and sells by the loaf.

Good bread aside, Kamando’s outdoor ‘dining’ area, with wooden benches on a patio outside the store, also makes it

the perfect spot for brunch or afternoon tea. Here you can bring your yummy spoils and enjoy them with a cup of coffee amongst friends and family.

* 906-7 Obunakoshimachi, Isahaya City, Nagasaki Prefecture 〒854-0062

( TEL 0957-26-4613| U 8:00 – 18:30 (Except Mondays)

Kamando

Joy Tan shares the manyappeals of café and bakery, Kamando.

café Kcaches

”

“ Most popular isKamando’s curry bread, a lightly breaded and yet crispy bun filled with thick chunks of beef steak and potatoes

14

Dining with kids? Kamando has a special area fully-equipped with toys and books to keep the young ones entertained.

Unfortunately, there are no baristas to serve you your coffee. You grab a cup and press a button, and your beverage is issued from a machine. Despite this, the coffee is good, and even better, your first coffee is on the house, with the next cup costing you a mere ¥50.

Located in a residential area with more twists, turns, and bends than you can imagine, Kamando is most easily accessible by car (with easily available parking spots right outside). That said, not having a car shouldn’t stop you from visiting Kamando – the 15 minute or so walk from Nishi-Isahaya Station should help you build up an appetite!

In conclusion, with bread that leaves you wanting more, the option to dine

on an outdoor patio with friends, and free coffee, Kamando is a bakery café that I give a big thumbs up to!

photos Joy Tan

”

“ Kamando’s outdoor ‘dining’ area, with wooden benches on a patio outside the store, also makes it the perfect spot for brunch or afternoon tea

n