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8/10/2019 my works in T-Qatar Issue 28 Nov/Dec 2014
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20 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Lookout Qatar34 Market Watch Form does not always follow function; these bags defy
all rules.
36 This and That
Printemps and a boys magical journey; Buccellati
makes a leap forward with rebranding initiatives;
Jaeger-LeCoultre returns to Abu Dhabi.
40 The Perspective
An exhibition by two expats titled Liquid Portraits
dives into complex issues with the fresh and
interesting perspective of outsiders.
42 On Fashion
Josep Font reimagines the revived Spanish label,
Delpozo but is consistent in his portrayal of the
Delpozo woman, intelligent, poised with a particular
way of relating to the world.
44 On Art
Mixed media artist Tareq Sayed Rajab de Montfort
cuts an interesting figure in his progressive,
sometimes controversial, body of work and trains of
thought.
47 On Heritage
At the Italian leather shoe brand Santoni, Giuseppe
Santoni and his master shoemaker, Silvano Sollini, tell
of the brands determination to pass on the trade to a
younger generation.
54 Artistic Pursuit
The Kayys, a home-grown brand, have portrayed
lifestyle imagery that was highly relatable to women
in the Gulf.
56 On Architecture
Crest, designed by architect of our time Zaha Hadid, is
a piece whose technical construction is dictated by its
impending moves across the globe.
Arena Qatar70 The Artist
Iranian artist Shirin Neshat touches on political
issues, social taboos and feminism, all in images that
are mesmerizing to the beholder, and almost as
intriguing as the artist herself.
74 The Creator
Filmmaker Mohamed Al Daradji focuses his lens on
war-ravaged Iraq and the untold stories echoing
across its plains.
Publisher & Editor In Chief
Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish
Chief Executive
Sandeep SehgalExecutive Vice President
Alpana Roy
Vice President
Ravi Raman
EDITORIAL
Editor
Sindhu Nair
Chief Fashion Correspondent
Debrina Aliyah
Senior Correspondents
Abigail MathiasAyswarya MurthyEzdihar Ibrahim Ali
ART
Senior Art Director
Venkat Reddy
Deputy Art Director
Hanan Abu Saiam
Assistant Art Director
Ayush Indrajith
Senior Graphic DesignerMaheshwar Reddy
Photography
Rob Altamirano
MARKETING AND SALES
Senior Manager Marketing
Frederick Alphonso
Manager Marketing
Sakala A. Debrass
Assistant Manager Marketing
Thomas JoseMathews Cherian
Media Consultants
Hassan RekkabLydia Youssef
AccountantPratap Chandran
Sr. Distribution Executive
Bikram Shrestha
Distribution Support
Arjun TimilsinaBhimal Rai
Basanta P
T, THE STYLE MAGAZINE
OF THE NEW YORK TIMES
Editor in ChiefDeborah Needleman
Creative Director
Patrick Li
Deputy Editor
Whitney Vargas
Fashion Director
Joe McKenna
Managing Editor
John Haskins
Photography Director
Nadia Vellam
THE NEW YORK TIMES
NEWS SERVICESGeneral Manager
Michael Greenspon
Vice President, Licensing and
Syndication
Alice Ting
Vice President, Executive Editor
The New York Times News
Service & Syndicate
Nancy Lee
LICENSED EDITIONS
Editorial Director
Josephine Schmidt
Coordinators
Gary CaesarJaisy De La Cruz
PUBLISHED BY
Oryx Advertising Co WLL
P.O. Box 3272; Doha-QatarTel: (+974) 44672139,44550983, 44671173,44667584Fax: (+974) 44550982Email: [email protected]: www.omsqatar.com
COPYRIGHT INFO
T, The New York Times Style Magazine, and the T logo are trademarks of The New York Times Co., NY, NY, USA, and are used under license by Oryx Media, Qatar.Content reproduced from T, The New York Times Style Magazine, copyright The New York Times Co. and/or its contributors 2014 all rights reserved. The views andopinions expressed within T Qatar are not necessarily those of The New York Times Company or those of its contributors.
COURTESYOFTHEKA
YYS
The Kayys Resortcollection 2015
Page 54
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38 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
New It bags take onunpredictable shapes defying
form and function.
Shape Shifting
Market Report
Clockwise from top left: Perfume Bottle Clutch, Lanvin,QR9,392; Monster Baguette, Fendi, QR8,962;
Cinnamon Wood and Resin Clutch, Nathalie Trad, price onrequest; Braque Gun Sling Clutch, Saint Laurent by HediSlimane,QR4,273; Cabas Tote, Celine,price on request;
Joni Fringe Clutch, Michael Kors, QR3,259;Powder Pink Clutch, DSquared2,QR2,531;
Crushed Ice Hexagon Clutch, LAfshar,QR3,938.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Lookout Qatar
CLOCKWISEFROMTOPLEFT:LANVIN,FENDI,NATHALIETRAD,SAINTL
AURENT,CELINE,MICHAELKORS,D'SQUARED2,L'AFSHAR
ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE
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4/1040 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Perhaps because of its melancholic winter weather and the
impending promise of a new year with revived resolutions,
Christmas is often depicted as a magical and festive time,
especially for the young. This holiday season, Printemps and
Burberry tell the story of a young boy who dreams of an
adventure crossing the English Channel from London to Paris by
floating through the night sky on a magical umbrella with his
beloved teddy bear. Dubbed The Magical Christmas Journey
the story is brought to life through the il lustrations of Tom
Haugomat, a Paris-based illustrator famed for his minimalist
works that invite different interpretations from his audience. The
piece brings together the silhouette of the Printemps store, the
skyline of London, the Burberry woman dressed in the houses
iconic trench coat, and the little boy floating over the Parisian
rooftops with his bear, narrating the story through the illustrators
perceptive eyes. The collaboration and concept work took more
than a year, says Frank Banchet, the artistic director of
Printemps. The boys magical journey becomes the central theme
for the department stores decor and artistic lead for the festive
season. The windows will, for the first time, feature an
interactive element to allow visitors to explore the Christmas
ambience, Banchet says. In homage to the fairy tale adventure,
Burberry also launched a special collection for Printemps based
on London icons. DEBRINA ALIYAH
Keeping With the Spiritof the Season
A Legacy of Jewels
The Regalia jewelry suite, inspired by imperial elegance and
comprising ethically-sourced Mozambican rubies set in platinum,
will be exclusively revealed at the Jewellery Arabia exhibition in
the Kingdom of Bahrain for the first time this year. Held under
the patronage of His Royal Highness Prince Khalifa bin Salman
Al Khalifa, the Prime Minister of Bahrain, the exhibition will takeplace at the Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention
Center from November 18-22, 2014. SINDHU NAIR
Faberg, the iconic artist jeweler, presents aone-of-a-kind rococo high jewelry egg pendantcrafted in 18-carat yellow gold, emeralds, rubies
and multicolored gemstones.
Tom Haugomats illustrationsshowcase the brands seasonal story.
COURTESYOFPRINTEMPS;COURTESYOFFABERGE;COURT
ESYOFBUCCELLATI;COURTESYOFJAEGERLEC
OULTRE
Lookout Qatar This and That
ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE
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After successful collaborations with the Shanghai and Venice Film Festivals, Swiss watch
brand Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to support the creativity of filmmakers from the Gulf
region in a four-year partnership, returning to Abu Dhabi for the eighth Abu Dhabi Film
Festival, held at the Emirates Palace from October 23 to November 1, 2014. Jaeger-LeCoultre
welcomed Carmen Chaplin, friend of the brand, as the guest of honor during the film
festival, one of the largest and most influential festivals dedicated to film in the
Middle East. Chaplin belongs to a long line of artists who have a particular kinshipwith the art of film; her grandfather was Charlie Chaplin, the renowned actor and
director of the silent film era. Carmen Chaplin followed in his footsteps as an
actress, director and writer. When they are made at a high level, watches are
like a form of art it takes so many people to make one watch, its kind of like
a film, I suppose, says Carmen.
When I went to the manufacture I was fascinated by the amount of people
involved and how everyone has a specific job that they do, just like on films
someone does the makeup, others do the hair and others the production,
and all of it together creates something beautiful when it works well. The
making of a watch truly does mirror the production of a film.
For the opening night of the festival, guests watched Emirati director AliMostafas new filmA to B. The occasion also saw the brand celebrate its iconic
Reverso, presenting a personalized Reverso watch to the winners of the Best
Actress and Best Actor of the Year awards in the narrative competition. REBECCA ANN
PROCTOR
A Crazy Love for Technique
Spending much of his childhood in the familys jewelry workshop, it was the
redolence of the technical process that sealed his love for all things gem
and metal. Luca, a third-generation member of revered Milanese jewelry
family the Buccellatis is passionately protective of the fiercely independent
legacy of his familys brand in a landscape increasingly dominated by
holding groups. I know people think that we are crazy. We are crazy,
Buccellati says, describing the lengthy and extensive work that the brand
pours into each individual piece, some jewelry pieces taking up to two years
to complete. The Buccellati boutique on Via Monte Napoleon is a Milanese
institution that has, for close to a century, represented the aristocratic
process of bespoke fine jewelry and refined silversmithing techniques. After
years of under-the-radar marketing efforts that have drafted the brand into
a sort of elite old-school club, Buccellati made a leap forward with
rebranding initiatives last February including the introduction of new
collections for a younger market. The artisanal detail and dedication
behind the pieces does not change, of course,Buccellati says. The atelier
is powered by about 65 craftsmen, many of whom, like the Buccellatis
themselves, have worked from generation to generation for the house.
They embody the values of our family. The honeycomb process and the
fur-like effect silverwork are all DNA of our designs which are drawn from
archival works of my grandfather and the artistic and cultural history of
Italy,he explains. Mario, Lucas grandfather, has a distinct design inluence
in the houses collection till today; one of its bestselling silver pieces is a
mirror frame by Mario that was drawn from the window of Milans Duomo.
Available at Ali Bin Ali, Royal Plaza, Doha.DEBRINA ALIYAH
The hypnotizing bouquet of solid goldbeing melted into liquid is one olfactory
experience of which Luca Buccellati swearstheres just nothing else like it.
The Art of Creation
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.JAEGERLECOULTRE.COM
SHINING STARS:Buccellati enamelbracelet; bracelettulle and pinksapphire earrings.
From left: Sencha De Groot, Wonho Chung, LeaSfeir and a guest at the Abu Dhabi Film Festival;
Duomtre Quantime Lunaire.
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47November-December 2014
in 2011, was meant to herald a fresh start with a new creative
vision, but the artistic genius of the late designer lives on in
Fonts body of work. Out of respect, we did not want to change
what he had done but him and I, theres many similarities
between the two chapters, Font explains. Theres an uncanny
resemblance between the way Font works and Delpozos style:
the draping on mannequins, the emphasis on clear creative
inspiration, the consistent analysis in color and fabric, and the
quest to make perfect patterns to create the voluminoussilhouettes that are signature to the brand. The legacy is easily
recognized in the current collections: pieces with subtle yet
complex draping, patterns rich in geometric shapes, structured
pleats and richly-crafted lapels. This near-obsessive accent on
craftsmanship and the construction of every single piece finds a
parallel in haute couture work, giving rise to Delpozos new term
for what they do: prt--couture. It is hardly surprising, given
that Font was already a star at the Chambre Syndicale de la
Haute Couture prior to his move to Delpozo. The labels atelier
works with the vision of realizing couture craftsmanship in small
production quantities, instead of pursuing the exclusive one timeonly badge associated with haute couture. The collections
become available to more than one customer, and it is highly
relevant to the modern fashion landscape where women now
always look for something personal to set them apart, Font tells
us. Delicate fabrics like bobbinet tulle that are traditionally
reserved for haute couture are juxtaposed with modern technical
materials, meshing together the time-honored and the new.
Development into this new prt--couture niche also involves
exploring the emergence of a growing new market, an affluent
and design-conscious generation of women who are aficionadas
of unique aesthetics, a generation that is increasingly prevalentin the Middle East. Font has been consistent in his definition of
the Delpozo woman of intelligence, poise, and a particular way
of relating to the world. These elements accurately describe
some of his most supportive advocates from this region, the
likes of fashion influencers Deena Abdulaziz and Najla Maatouk.
In just three seasons the Arab market has surged to become one of
the biggest buyers of the label; the ss15 col lection will be available
in three multibrand boutiques in Qatar alone, including the
celebrated Per Lei Couture.
The Arabian woman has within her nature a constant search for
detail. Embellishment is relevant to the extent of how she dresses,
and we extend these elements in our pieces, Font explains. Delpozo
only has two flagship stores for now a brand new stateside
outpost in Miami and another on its home turf in Madrid. Thebusiness focus, however, is still on the clothes and the establishment
of the labels characteristic features. Each collection is an evolution
of the previous, Font muses. I feel that the future for fashion is to
bring back craftsmanship into fresh and modern designs.
ART IN COLORLooks from the labelsspring/summer 2015collection that drawonJosef Albers work.
Font has been consistent in his deinition of theDelpozo woman as havingintelligence, poise, and
a particular way of relating to the world.
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Section Sub Section
58 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
IN A PRISTINE WHITEWASHED LIVING ROOM,two ornately overdressed
girls share a laugh while indulging in servings of chocolate cake from a
lavishly scrumptious dessert spread. The setting, a familiar social ritual inthis part of the world, struck an instant chord with local girls, while the
deliberately decorative fashion choices quickly got questions popping:
Where can I get my hands on it? These campaign images made their
appearance on Instagram mid-2012, and rang in the debut of the label The
Kayys. The photographed Ramadan collection was a sell-out success, with
client-label communication all done via social media.
Fast forward to a hundred thousand followers and five col lections later, The
Kayys have now established stockists and far-reaching sales medium beyond
their initial online guerilla sales tactics. But the label remains an undeniable
case study in the power of social media not only to promote but to conduct
commercial transactions a unique approach that is widespread only in theGulf countries. It is, nonetheless, less simple than just uploading images and
waiting for the likes to pour in. The Kayys portrayed lifestyle imagery that
was highly relatable to women in the Gulf, and created appropriately
aspirational clothing to match these ideals. Every post is calculated and
produced. It is a very personal space to communicate what is inspiring us
and to express the vision of the brand, says one of the designers behind the
label, Hend Al Subaey. It was a lengthy process but was important to create
the exact image that we envisioned for the brand.
Designed by three Qatari sisters, Hend, Ghada and Maha, The Kayys
certainly have found the magic formula in capturing the spirit of the modern
Arab woman in their demi-couture offerings. The col lections illustratedifferent strong thematic messages, yet find parallels in their feminine and
visually attractive aesthetics. It sometimes feels as if the pieces were created
purely for the editorial experience, though the luxurious and comfortable
fabrics suggest otherwise. The coming together of three personalities into one
creative direction has
become the trademark for
the label. Each of us has an
input, which is why we
believe our clothing is
successful. Theres lots of
love and care intoassimilating three minds,
Hend says. Ghada bagged
the prestigious Young
Designer award as part of
The Kayys at the 2013 Qatar
Arab Woman Awards, while
Maha graduated from
Virginia Commonwealth
University Qatar last year
with a final collection that quickly caught the attention of local fashion
retailers. I like imperfections; I like the tension, and my designs walk the linebetween drama and discipline, Maha says of her creative vision.
Each piece from the collections is produced in the labels atelier in Doha,
with a dedicated focus on the hand-sewn crystal embell ishments that are
integral to the DNA of The Kayys. The demi-couture concept, though costly
MODERN ARABLeft: statement
sweater using ArabEnglish. Below:sketches of the Resort2015 collection.
The story of a home-grown brand,The Kayys, that captures the spirit
of the modern Arab woman.
The Power of Three
Artistic Pursuit
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
ALLIMAGESCOURTESYOFTHEKAYYS
Lookout Qatar
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and challenging, allows for the sisters to ensure each piece is perfectly
executed and to cater to customization requests from clients. Quality
execution is key to enable us to compete internationally. Social media has
introduced us to the world beyond this region and we must show what Qatar
is made of, Hend explains. The mushrooming of influential multibrand
boutiques in the region, the likes of Symphony and DNA, has also helped The
Kayys gain ground with fans away as far as New York City; trend forecaster
Alyson Cafiero was recently spotted in the labels ensemble at the opening of
the Dance and Fashion Exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Museum. The community is very supportive; a lot of our sales come from
local girls who make it a point to wear regional designers, Hend says.
The Resort 2015 collection, which was previewed at DNA Doha a couple of
months back, finds its inspiration from the celestial elements of the universe
the sun, the moon and the stars, all noteworthy fodder for the embroidery
and embellishment work the label is known for. Primarily in pastel colors, the
garments evoke the luxe sportswear vibe and feature a
statement element of Arabic letters on key pieces.
Dream on, Dreamer.We phonetically spelled out this
phrase in Arabic to reflect a trend in the Gulf that we
call Arab English. Its a little something of our culture
that we wanted to inject into the collection, Hend says.
The stark contrast between modernity and tradition
comes into play again in the collection s campaign images featuring a model
with a neon wig zigzagging through an Old World gilded living space. It was
shot in the home of a friend whose family are big collectors of antiques, which
they have preserved impeccably, Hend says. The sisters then took the
collection to Paris, where they shot the pieces on models against iconic
landmarks in the city. The inclination for theatrical presentations to reinforce
the lifestyle image have served the label well; its spring/summer 2014 launch,
which presented live models as art installations, is still one of the most talked-
about events in Doha.
The success of the clothing line has prompted the introduction of jewelry
and accessories as part of their next seasons offerings. Via Instagram, black-
and-white teasers of geometric prints have begun to give fans a little taste of
whats to come. It is a two-way thing. We get to gauge what attracts the most
attention, and it is as important for us to listen as it is to create, Hend says.
The coming together of threepersonalities into one creative directionhas become the trademark for the label.
OFF THE RUNWAYThe labels Resort 2015collection was shot inthe home of a friendwho is an avid collectorof antiques. Far right:the sisters working inthe atelier.
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60 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
OVER THE POOL INthe center of the Victoria and Albert Museums
(V&As) John Madejski Garden, a translucent and almost invisible
structure reflects rays of sunlight on the opening day of the London
Design Festival 2014. Depending on ones perspective, the sight
could be considered reminiscent of a Hollywood movie depicting an
alien spaceship floating over the pond, the metal piece presenting a
stark contrast to the serene garden landscape of the landmarkmuseum building that is over a century old. In this sense the
structure, named Crest, has fulfilled the primary requirement of the
pivotal installation for the annual Festival to provide a talking
point to attract and engage visitors.
This is only the beginning of the journey for the installation, which
will ultimately find its permanent home surrounded by our Arabian
desert in Dubai. Crest, designed by an architect of our time Zaha
Hadid, is a piece whose technical construction is dictated by its
impending moves across the globe; its shape will also evolve with its
travels to come. It was designed with these specifics in mind, that it
needs to be taken apart and to be reassembled, so the process of
creating the piece is based on its journey, explains Melodie Leung,
the associate at Zaha Hadid Architects who is overseeing the project.
As with most of Hadids designs, the installation was an
experiment to test the limits of form and material and find a perfect
equilibrium. The curved structure came to life with the assembling of
two layers of 8mm pre-stressed solid aluminum. Through an
experiential collaboration between the architects and engineers on
the project, the key was to achieve a precise form with tension on the
surface of the shell structure with the thinnest possible layer of
metal. It was a new process for us, Leung explains. There were a
lot of testing and editing of many different versions before we
arrived at this. But theres still plans to continue further research on
this method. At the V&As pond, the large flat plate of metal was
lifted until it found its own self-supporting ideal shape the perfect
mechanical line that was intended in the research. Once over the
pond, Crest becomes an interaction tool between the sky on one side
and the rippling water on the other, or as Hadid puts it, a
compelling interplay with light and reflection.
Crest was commissioned with the intention that it will become the
centerpiece outdoor installation for the new ME Hotel Dubai that is
due to open its doors early in 2017. The hotel, a first for Zaha Hadids
firm in that it is handling both the exteriors and the interiors of the
building, also marks a new frontier for the Melia Hotels group in
establishing its new ME by Melialifestyle brand, which has recently
seen openings in London, Madrid, Mallorca and Ibiza. The Crest
signifies a connection between East and West, and what Hadid has
done is experimental and boundaries-pushing in terms of design,
something very pertinent to ME, says Tony Cortizas, the companys
vice-president of brands.
In Dubai the Crest will continue to explore the relationships
between the fluid and Cartesian, solid and void, surface and
structure inherent within the hotels design, Hadid explains. This
comes about, she says, in the contrasting philosophical elements
between the buildings exterior and interior, the vibrant lifestyle-
driven pulse of the ME brand with the sleek and serious lines of the
Opus building in Dubais business-driven Burj Khalifa district.
It is very stark, very binary and very solid on the outside,
explains Christos Passas, Associate Director of Zaha Hadid
Architects. But on the inside, it is everything that is between the
spectrums of black and white. What started as a project to design
buildings in the business district became a full- fledged constellation
of mixed-used functions, including offices and serviced residences as
well as the hotel. We wanted to take it forward with the Opus
building because it is a very efficient and interesting building in
itself, Passas says. Hadids design remit will extend to signature
furniture that is purpose-built or selected by the architect herself.
With a three-year timeline from now until Crest anchors down in
Dubai, there seems to be an exciting yet uncharted journey ahead
for the installation, both as a visual exhibit and in the continuous
evolution of the structure itself. You can always feel the structure
reacting if you touch or handle it, but it will always settle back into
that ideal form based on where the two ends land like a sheet of
paper, Leung explains. But theres endless possibilities to
experimenting with length and shapes. While Hadid herself
envisages the piece emerging from the fountain at the center of a
pool as part of the new hotel, the fluidity and engineering of the
installation may mean that it just finds its own shape and fate as it
settles in the eternal sunshine of Dubai.
From West to East inPerfect Equilibrium
A structure that irst came to life against the backdropof a historic red-brick London landmark will ind a new
incarnation in a modern Arab city as Zaha HadidsCrest journeys from West to East.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
On Design
PAPER THINCrestas the highlightpiece of the 2015London DesignFestival.
COURTESYOFZAHA
HADID
Lookout Qatar