"My Peru" - TRAVEL

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    BackpackersWanted.com

    My Peru

    What to write, or what not to write? That is the question. More so, that is the challenge.

    To choose which culinary delights, cultural tidbits and sights truly encompass the heart of Peru.

    The breathtaking vistas, extreme ecological diversity and ancient Inca ruins were memorable, of course,

    but it was the strange cuisine, mystical treks and conniving tour agencies that made my trip to Peru unforgettable.

    This is My Peru.

    Lima. Chaotic, noisy and overcrowded are just a few of the words that come to mind when describing Perus capital city. With more than 8 million people,

    half living well below the poverty line, the city is a population time bomb waiting to explode. However, if you can move past its harsh exterior, an adventure

    awaits an adventure of gastronomic proportions. You see, Limas real treasure is one for the palate.

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    First and foremost, remember: an empanada a

    day keeps the doctor away. Carne, pollo or queso

    (meat, chicken or cheese) all wrapped up in the

    flaky goodness of a warm pastry. Or, for you

    adventurous culinary enthusiasts, how about cuy

    (guinea pig)? Yes, the same furry animal many of

    us had as children paws, claws, eyes and all

    step right up and get your very own deep fried

    guinea pig. And to wash it all down, Pisco sours.

    Raw eggs and Pisco brandy are whipped into this

    national cocktail to add that extra bit of raw protein

    necessary for a night out on the town.

    After satisfying your appetite, head south.

    Nestled along the sprawling desert coast line are

    two of Perus lesser known national treasurers.

    Islas Ballestas and the sand boarding mecca of

    Huacachina.

    Islas Ballestas, known as the poor mans

    Galapagos Islands, is a smaller and cheaper

    version of Ecuadors acclaimed site. Flocks of

    condors and pelicans grace the skies, families of

    sea lions happily splash around in the island

    shallows, and thousands of penguins inquisitively

    waddle to and fro on the nearby shores. Why

    spend thousands when this amazing Galapagos

    prequel can be yours for 10 bucks?

    The oasis town of Huacachina was next. Swathed in palm trees and situated around a soothing blue lagoon, the village is much more then a desert

    mirage, it is the sand boarding capital of Peru. Souped-up dune buggies take riders on hair-raising off-road adventures over miles of surrounding dunes.Then, the real thrill: attempting to sand board these monstrous mounds. The inevitable spills and innumerable scrapes are well worth the 5 seconds of

    glory.

    My next treasure was not a place, but instead a feat. Rising more than 5,800 meters and towering majestically over the town of Arequipa, climbing Misti

    Volcano would become my trips crown jewel.

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    Warned about altitude sickness, I came equipped with the

    best line of defense: an ancient Inca remedy, Coca leaves.

    To release their medicinal powers, chew the leaves into a

    small ball and lodge the salivated mush into the back of the

    mouth. Within minutes of inhaling the remedial aroma, the

    pounding headaches and disoriented feelings subside. As

    for flavor, well, think lawn mulch.

    We reached base camp just before sunset. A blank

    canvas, the thick cloud cover now suspended below, was

    set ablaze by the exquisite brush strokes of the suns final

    rays. Blazing hues of reds and oranges replaced the grey,

    creating a fiery dance floor from our feet to the horizon.

    Situated on one of the few rocky ledges Misti offers, I didnt sleep a wink

    that night. Instead I lay in an awake mans coma. Deafened by the

    howling wind and paralyzed by the fear of being hurled from the

    precarious perch that we teetered on with each blustery gust. Lets just

    say I was more than happy to begin the next phase of the climb, even if

    it did begin at 1:30 a.m.

    With head lamps on, we continued the climb in the nights inky

    darkness. Each grueling step amplified by the crippling effects of

    altitude sickness, forced even our most physically fit climbers to turn

    back.

    After the sun retired for the evening and the perpetual darkness of space oozed down over the lands, millions of stars burst to life. Some remained

    stationary beacons while hundreds of others fell from the sky that night. Lacking noises from the world far below, the phrase silence is deafening could

    not have applied more than in those awe-inspiring moments.

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    Cresting onto her active crater, now fully exposed to mother natures fury, each

    step was no longer taken for distance, but as an anchor against Mistis final

    attempt to fling us from her menacing peak. Izquierda.Derecha. Izquierda.

    Derecha (Left. Right. Left. Right) was all I could think. But the end was in

    sight!

    Centered around Misti's colossal crater, the frosty peaks of Chachani Volcanoloomed to the left and Picchu Picchu Volcano on the right. Reaching the

    summit was euphoric. Though probably a combination of exhaustion and

    altitudinal disarray, that feeling will stay with me forever. For those moments, I

    was on top of the world!

    I would have loved to remain there, on that climbers high, but the bitter cold

    would not allow it. Skiing down a 75 degree incline, knee deep in volcanic

    ash, proved the easiest way down. The 3-hour descent proved even more

    perilous than the 12-hour trip up.

    And finally, my trip to Peru was not to be complete without visiting Machu Pichu, The Lost City of the Incas.

    Before embarking on the journey, however, the ancient capital city of Cusco is a mandatory stop. With dozens of advertised Inca Trail treks, I found out

    the hard way, that it doesnt always pay to be frugal. You pay for what you get.

    Kicking off with a downhill mountain bike ride, what was supposed to be exhilarating, soon turned exasperating. Supplied with a bike held together by

    nothing more than black electrical tape, I tempted fate around every corner, placing my life in the hands of that possessed bikes madness.

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    As for meals on the trek what meals? Our first nights

    dinner left me with a vicious stomach parasite that for the

    next three days, I survived on crackers and water alone.

    And to top off the trip, my tour company failed to arrange a

    return transfer from Machu Pichu. As other tourists happily

    boarded the train back to Cusco, I pleaded for my pre-paid

    but never booked ticket. Thank goodness for the conductor

    with a soft spot for the blond gringa with broken Spanish.

    As they say though, its about the journey, not the

    destination. And what a journey it was. Trekking over the

    same sacred mountain paths the Incan people traveled

    hundreds of years prior made my arrival to the citys ancient

    gates well worth the four-day trek.

    With a history hazier than the clouds surrounding her walls, the truth behind Machu Pichus conception, reign and abrupt abandonment remains a mystery

    for locals and foreigners alike. Flanked by precipitous cliffs and placed in the protective bosom of the surrounding mountains, it was easy to see how this

    sky-high sepulcher could remain hidden for more than 400 years.

    After seeing thousands of photos and dozens of documentaries, stil l, nothing could have prepared me for something so surreal. As if stepping into a

    painting, time fell away. Transported back to the glory days of this seemingly immortal kingdom.

    As the morning sun awoke, so did the sleepy town, blooming forth with the same fertility and purpose it had hundreds of years ago. Endless hues of green

    sprang to life, from the bright Kelly greens of the agricultural terraces to the faintest pea green mosses clinging to the ancient stonework. The cracks in the

    aged stone walls whispered the epic stories of a time long ago while the ghosts of Machu Pichus past seemed to embrace my every move, overwhelmingmy heart with the same pride they have for their mighty municipal.

    Whether you are a historian, adventurer or overall cultural enthusiast, Peru can be whatever you want it to be. This was my Peru. Your Peru awaits

    For more of Reggie's crazy adventures, please visit: http://www.backpackerswanted.com

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