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Murphy’s LawWhiting 32
Safety EquipmentEvacuation plan
Safety EquipmentEPIRBLife JacketsFlaresFire ExtinguisherLife RingBilge pumpSpare Rope & SheetsAnchor
ESCAPE
HATCHES
Forward
Main
Aft
Anchor
Battery
VHF
Radio
Tools and Spare
Parts
Storage
Hanging
space
Toilet
(Head)
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PORT Side
Head Sail Halyard
Vang
Reefing 1
Cunningham
STARBOARD Side
Main Halyard
Head Sail Halyard
Main Out Haul
Vang
Reefing 2
Cunningham
Topping lift
INSTRUMENTS
Speed (water) and Depth
Compass
GPS
Murphys Law Sailing ProceduresPersonal safety equipment:
PFD1 inflatable or buoyancy vest. Must wear sailing glovesPersonal Clothing to suit conditions expected
General procedures:Always Safety First for everybody. Procedures for winch and sail handling must be safe. Labelling is a very useful technique. Learn part names we use.Safe loading of winches on the water.Hold sheets and halyards by placing the hand with the little finger closest to the winch. Load the required (2)turns (minimum) around the winch from the outer side of the hand. The trimmer applies back pressure to the sheet to cause friction of the sheet around the winch which enables it to deliver its job.Loading turns of the sheet on to a winch
Hand grip on sheet
Load/ unload winch handle and stowage. Do not leave handle in the winch.
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Roles of Headsail trimmer.Balance at the winch, brace outside knee on side, inside knee on seat, One hand on the winch handle other for tailing and locking off, chest over the winch for maximum effort.Balance posture
Trimmer’s to move to the high side after setting Headsail.
Operate the mainsheet and especially the cleat system.The language of trimming:
Pull on or in -Tighten upPull on or in -Tighten upEase -Let out a bit at a time- get confirmationDump! – Especially for the main on a windy day
Let it all off and be ready to bring it onAlso need to give an estimate of how much:
“Pull the jib on 10cm”“As we turn away from the wind, ease the mainsheet at least 1 metre”
The mainsail trimmer and the traveller
Traveller controls the boom's angle to the wind and it steers the boat controlling helm and heeling in puffs and lulls
Mainsheet Set the twist
MainsailLight the mainsheet is well eased to promote acceleration(Under 10 knots) the traveller car will need to be up to weather to put the boom on
the centerlineHeadsailMainsailMedium the mainsheet is eased to promote acceleration(10-16 knots) the breeze builds and mainsheet tension increases, the traveller will
gradually be droppedDump the traveller down quickly at the onset of a puffthen be ready to pull it right back up as the initial power of the puff is dissipated and turning it into forward speed instead of heel
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Vessel deck Layout crew positions Sailing Upwind
Helm
Mainsheet Hand
Runner Trimmer
Headsail Trimmer-Port – Starboard
Foredeck
Vessel deck Layout crew positions Sailing Downwind
Helm
Runner Trimmer
Mainsheet Hand
Headsail Trimmer-Port – Starboard
Foredeck
Vessel deck Layout crew positions Changing directions
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Hoisting the SailsPre set the Rig and sails forLight Mainsail is well eased to promote maximum Power(Under 10 knots) Runners are set to uppers-Firm lowers-easy
Headsail No: 1 set to Max ShapeMedium Mainsail is flattened to promote maximum Power with Better Wind(10-16 knots) Runners are set to uppers Rigid lowers firm
Headsail No: 1½ set to Max ShapeHeavy Mainsail is flat and Down traveller(16- 22 knots) Runners are set to uppers-Hard lowers-rigid
Headsail No: 3 set to Max Shapefix the traveller six to twelve inches above the leeward gunwale and play the sheetaggressively to control heel
Murphy’s LawWhiting 32
Fractional rig with in line spreaders using runnersFractional rig with in line spreaders using runners
Back Stay – Set the mast as a standard bendThe pre-bend should be adjusted in the same way as for the masthead rig. The runners should be hands tight during the pre-bend adjustments.
It is difficult to give exact values for the pre-bend because it istotally dependent on the mainsail’s shape
Use the main halyard to estimate the pre-bendHand tight backstay Set pre-bend as described. Adjust with the lower shrouds.
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Man overboard Procedure Everyone has a different system this is how I like to do it (always open to discussion on any aspect of procedures).
If someone is over board call
“Man overboard”
If hard on Wind don’t let out sails keep them locked on hardIf off the Wind let of down extra windward sails and bring on sails( Head and Main) and keep them locked on hardHelm then can sail up wind (sails on) or downwind (Sails on) When asked Dump sails and prepare to Retrieve MOB and bring up transomor over leeward side if possible
Reefing (Reducing Sail) Procedure
Always ease the sail (let it free so you can perform the sail change)When it is required to change gears (reduce Sail )
Then Swap headsails
Ensure the jib is secured to the deck when lowered until it is to be hoisted.
If you need to reef the Main thenLet off the Main Halyard slowly so that the new Reef clew can beplaced on the Horns at the Mast end of the Boom.When this is attached then the reefing line can be Haled inWhen completed hall in sail and get back on track
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Sailing Upwind (or Close Hauled)
Points of sailing
Tracking
WIND
No Go Zone
Heading
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No Go Zone
Beam Reach
TrackingTracking
WIND
No Go Zone
Heading
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WIND
No Go Zone
Danger Zone
Down Wind no
Spinnaker
Heading
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Tracking
Changing Direction
Understand the helm’s position - crossing
the boat during tacks and gybes facing forward.
EYES FRONT!
Ensure the jib is secured to the deck until it is to be hoisted when lowered.
Manoeuvres such as tacking and gybing, the helm calls
“Ready ….” To everyone, every time, helm checks for response from all, on what they have to do. Crew must not do anything until the helm calls “Ready ….”
Tacking:
Jib trimmer(s):pre-load winch with new sheet, 2 turns
let go sheet on low side when sail collapses
Pull on sheet on opposite side when sail collapses
Use winch, adding turns of the sheet if requiredUse winch, adding turns of the sheet if required
Cleat, or trimmer to hold
Main trimmer: Ease the sheet 10-20cm
Cross to the other side as the boat sits upright
Then pull in as boat accelerates on the new tack
Helm: Pick out aiming point for the boat when it comes out of the tack. The helm does this, with outside reference or Compass.
Call crew “ready to tack?”
Wait 3 seconds, allow crew to respond “ready”
Call “Leo” and push tiller to 45 degrees
Cross the boat, passing tiller behind, EYES FRONT! When main fills on the new tack, helm in the middle.
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Gybing:
Bear away running dead down wind, with the wind indicator pointing directly over the stern.Point out that the collapse of the jib is a good indication of this point of sailing. Main trimmer - the procedure to be followed is the safe, strong wind method grabbing the sheet and throwing it across.
Jib trimmer(s): When the jib collapses, bring the active sheet in a metre or two, and hold preparatory for the gybe. Thus preventing the jib from wrapping around the forestay.After the gybe, bring the new sheet on and release the old.Trim the sheet to the new course.Main trimmer: At the call of “”, centre and secure the traveller, to stop it moving during the gybe. In fresh winds, you may take it right over to the opposite side and secure it there. When the boat is “dead square”, start pulling in the sheet. Ensure that the sheet remains free of the cleat, and that the sheet is free to run and not tangled. Cross to the other side As the boat turns for the gybe, the boom will drop, lift and swing across in about 0.8 of a second. The
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drop, lift and swing across in about 0.8 of a second. The main sheet must be let free to run. Once stable, bring the main sheet in, as the boat turns to its new course. Discourage gybing the mainsail by grabbing a handful of sheet and flinging it across the boat.
Helm: Call “Prepare to gybe”Turn the boat downwind, “dead square” to the wind Wind indicator directly over the stern.Hold this direction while the mainsail is brought towards the centreCross to the other side while the mainsail is coming inCall “gybe”When the boom comes across, pull the tiller the other way to counter the turning force of the mainsail. Usually hold this for about 2 seconds, turn further and hold longer in stronger winds.When the boat is stable, push the tiller to the middleEstablish the new course and call the trimmers “that’s the course”.The gybe should be a seamless, continuous manoeuvre.
WIND
Sail Setting
Sails Right out, Air Turbulence &
no Power
As sail Pulled in The flow
improves & Power starts
Correct Angle Has Steady Flow
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Look at the point where each mainsail begins to twist (yellow arrow). The mainsail to the left has twist too high and this stalls the sail.The mainsail to the right has the proper twist, which begins at about the 50% point up the leech. This gives great performance.Also note the main and headsail slot differences.The right-side boat has better overall sail trim.
Water flow and effects of Rudder and Keel
KEELRUDDER
Straight
Ahead
Turn to
Starboard
Bird’s Eye View
Starboard
Turn to
Port
Rudder
Stalled
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The concept behind running back stays is that they allow you to
control the upper portion of your mast, and therefore adjust the
shape of that same area of the sail plan.
Using them properly depends upon a few things. Murphys is a
fractional rig and therefore the designer added the running
backs to help support the uppermost portion of the sail plan. In
lighter winds, you may not need to use them under 10 knots of lighter winds, you may not need to use them under 10 knots of
wind.
When the breeze comes on, so do the running backs. Once
you've got the sails trimmed in and you're heading upwind,
tension the running backstay on the weather side (with the
leeward one loose) and then stand at the base of the mast and
site up the spar to see what additional adjustment does to the
mast and consequently the shape of the sails.
The running backs are usually attached somewhere below the
masthead, so the force they exert on the spar is largely different
than the force exerted by the permanent backstay, and thus the
end result on the shape of the sail plan is slightly different as
well. Also, running backstays aren't set in exactly the same plane
(getting geometrical here) as the permanent, so they tend to
exert a side force on the spar and thus the sail plan. That's
another reason why it's critical to site up the mast
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The main purpose if runners on a race boat is to adjust the
tension in the forestay and therefore adjust the depth of the
headsail and hence the power in the sail. By easing the runner,
the forestay sags backwards and to leeward thereby increasing
the depth of the headsail. And depth = power.
The times you need the runners on hard is to tension the
forestay and flatten the headsail is in very heavy weather when
you're trying to depower the headsail (and coincidentally you're
giving more support to the mast when needed) and in light winds
and flat water when you're trying to sail as close to the wind as
possible. In this case you need a flat sail to reduce your angle of
attack.attack.
At all other times the runner should be adjusted to provide the
required power in the headsail.
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Forestay
Runners
Back stay
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Water level
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The running backstays aren't set in exactly the same plane
(getting geometrical here) as the permanent, so they tend to
exert a side force on the spar and thus the sail plan.
Water level
BOW on VUEI
Water level
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Water level
Distance for water to travel on Windward and Leeward Side’s
Backstay Tension on
Mast Bend
921
Keel Stepped Mast
Bottom Runner Tension on
Stops Mast bend forward
Top Runner Tension on
Increases Forestay Tension
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Sailing to WindwardNotice 1.water flow distance on Windward side
2.water flow distance on Leeward side3. Crew position4.Runners and Backstays “on” - Windward
side5.Runners and Backstays “off” - Leeward
side6.Canting Keel in Windward Position7.Canard on Windward Side up8.Canard on Leeward Side Down
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SKIPPERS TIPS ON USING BOOM VANG
BOOM VANG
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The boom vang ranks second, behind the mainsheet in your ability to trim the mainsail for max. Sail power? This piece of sailing gear can perform for you: 1. Trim your sails to perfection on reaches.2. Serve as a preventer on smaller sailboats.3. Keep the leech shaped for power in heavy air.4. Trim Your Sails to Perfection on Reaches
Keep the Leech Shaped for Power in Heavy Air
When the wind begins to build, move to heavy weather trim. This involves more than just reefing. You need to use the vang, along with the mainsheet and traveller to maintain good mainsail leech shape to provide power and performance.
1. Tension the vang to remove slack.2. Move the mainsheet car along the traveller track.3. Set the car in place (traveller line)4. Stand aft of the mainsail. Sight up the leech. 5. Slack the mainsheet a bit until you see the leech
twist halfway up the sail.This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep
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This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep the boat more level and balanced more power to punch through a chop.
Pump up your mainsails power on reaching points of sail with a boom vang. You will learn how to sail a boat better than ever before with peak performance, speed, and drive.
When beating or close reaching, the sailboat boom lies close to the centerline
The mainsheet performs the job of pulling down on the mainsail to keep the leech trimmed.
On reaching points of sail?
When the boom hangs out over the water on beam reaches or runs, the mainsheet no longer has the power to pull downward on the boom. The boom can rise, the leech to curl into a half moon, and the sail draft moves aft. You have weather helm and a white-knuckle helm .The vang will pull down on the boom, tighten the leech, and give you just the right sail shape for Max Power.
Keep the Leech Shaped for Power in Heavy Air
When the wind begins to build, move to heavy weather trim. This involves more than just reefing.
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weather trim. This involves more than just reefing. You need to use the vang, along with the mainsheet and traveller to maintain good mainsail leech shape to provide power and performance.
Tension the vang to remove slack.
1. Move the mainsheet car along the traveller track.2. Set the car in place (traveller line)3. Stand aft of the mainsail. Sight up the leech. 4. Slack the mainsheet a bit until you see the leech
twist halfway up the sail.This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep the boat more level and balanced more power to punch through a chop.
The next Stage
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