CONSTRUCTION FUNDAMENTALS

FASHION 2130

RESOURCE/WORKBOOK BOOKLET

COURSE FAS2130: CONSTRUCTION FUNDAMENTALS 2

Apply intermediate construction techniques and knowledge of fabrics and patterns to complete a garment for the lower torso.

1. identify various methods of constructing, finishing and naming fabrics

2. explain and demonstrate knowledge related to sewing notions

3. demonstrate and apply knowledge and skills related to pattern alterations, fitting of a garment, fabric choices and appropriate sewing techniques

4. apply basic construction skills at an appropriate level in assembling a garment

5. demonstrate safe and proficient use of sewing equipment, pressing equipment, cutting tools and sewing notions

6. identify copyright restrictions and permissions and put them into practice

7. demonstrate basic competencies

8. identify possible life roles related to the skills and content of this cluster

Evaluation PercentageBasic Competencies-sewing journal-management of learning-management of project/equipment-attention to learning and improving

10

Project-correct placement of shaping techniques-wearing ease-length suitable for style and individual-straight hanging seams-professionally finished, pressed, clean and neat.

80

Assignments

1. Read following pages on fabric construction and types of weaves. Locate in the classroom an example of plain, twill and satin weave and correctly label and attach to information pages.

2. Research three nonwoven types of fabric construction and three types of knit fabric. Explain each type.

3. What is a fabric finish? Research and explain five different types.

4. What are fabric generic names? List five in chart form including characteristics of each.. http://www.afma.org/f-tutor/q-guide.htm#SPANDEX

5. What are fabric brand names? List five

6. What are fabric finishes? Create a chart showing the characteristics of five for natural fabric and five for synthetic fabricshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finishing_(textiles)

7. Research types of thread ( 3 types), fasteners ( 3 types), tapes, trims, elastics( 3 types), braids, lining, interfacing( 3 types) will affect the finished garment. Include description of types in each category, and what results each type will create. (Example: zippers may be coiled plastic or metal and vary in weights; the weight of the zipper used will be based upon the garment. An evening dress will not use the same zipper as a winter coat due to aesthetic appearances.)

8. Choose a pattern, in the correct size for a lower torso garment. Discuss choice with teacher and complete information below.

9. Using your pattern envelope answer the following. Attach envelope or photocopy

a. What company? b. Pattern number?c. Width of fabric you purchased?d. Layout used for pinning?e. Notions required?f. Pattern description?g. Finished measurements for your pattern and view?h. Did you need interfacing or contrast fabric for your pattern? How did you decide

the amounts?

10. Define:

a. Dartsb. Pleatsc. Gathersd. Stay stitchinge. Under stitchingf. Topstitching

11. What are three ways a seam can be reduced to eliminate bulkiness and increase comfortable wearing?

12. Purchase the supplies necessary to complete a project to construct in your size.

-Garment for this project must include a minimum of three of the following construction details or details from an intermediate level.

-basting, seam/seam finish, bulk reduction, closure, hem treatment, pocket, shaping technique, sleeve, and/or neck/waist treatment

13. Keep an ongoing journal of your progress on your project.

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION CHART NOTES

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION

fibers are created into yarns yarns are then woven or knit into fabrics fabrics are used to create projects

BLENDED YARNS, THREADS, AND FABRICS blends were created to utilize the positive characteristics of each fiber different fibers that have been combined into one fabric, usually one

natural and one synthetic EXAMPLE: polyester/cotton blend- the original cotton characteristics

are improved and the fabric becomes more wrinkle resistant, stronger, and mildew resistant

WOVENS

a woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right

angles to make a fabric strong and easy to sew on suggested for beginners to use

GRAIN (LINE)

selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly woven edges of the fabric

lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger threads (warp threads) crosswise - at right angle to the lengthwise threads; perpendicular to

the selvage (weft threads) bias - diagonal angle; runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge;

provides stretch

KNIT

knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into a series of interlocking loops to make a fabric

knits provide stretch knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will not fray ball point needle is recommended for sewing on knits single knit fabric curls to the right side when stretched interlock knit is thicker than single knits and when stretched they don't

curl

NON-WOVEN/ FELTING

made when fibers are pressed together using heat and moisture examples include: felt and non-woven interfacing

NAP

short fibers that create texture on fabric use a nap layout treat the same way as a one-way directional fabric

Types of WeavesYou must have seen that the clothes that you wear have different woven designs.Designs can be due to -_ use of different types of yarns like simple, ply, complex and textured._ use of different ways of interlacement of warp and weft yarns

1. Plain Weave: - It is the simplest weave and therefore inexpensive to produce.Many fabrics that you commonly wear like mulmul dupattas, organdyand chiffon sarees are all plain weave. Each and every weft yarn goes alternatelyunder and over the warp yarns across the width of the fabric. If theyarns are close together, the plain weave has a high thread count and thefabric will be firm and will wear well.

Fig. 24.12 Plain WeavePlain weave is of two types-Rib Weave Basket WeaveRib or line effect Two or more weft yarns are interlacedis created by using as a unit with corresponding numberthin yarns with thick of warp yarns to give a basket likeyarns or single effect. Mattee fabric commonly usedyarns with doubled yarns in for cross stitch embroidery is an exampleany one direction of the fabric. of such a weave.

2. Twill Weave - This basic weave has a clear diagonal line on the face of thefabric. The denim or jean fabric you wear is twill weave. It is a very strongand durable weave. It is therefore commonly used in men’s suit and coatfabrics. Twill weave fabrics show soil less quickly than plain weave.Fig. 24.14 Twill Weave

3. Satin Weave - This basic weave has a beautiful shiny surface because oflong floats on the surface of the fabric. In the satin weave warp yarns floatover several weft yarns before interlacing with a weft yarn and so on. However,the long floats snag easily therefore satin weave is not as strong asplain or twill weave.Besides the basic weave you must have seen the fancy, decorative designweaves like the booti design woven in the fabric. Corduroy has raised parallelvertical lines. A towel has loops covering its both sides. All these fabricsare made using special looms and weaving techniques. They are obviouslyexpensive fabrics.