TECHNOLOGY OF WEAVING PROCESS

Moekarto Moeliono

TECHNOLOGY OF WEAVING

PROCESS

1. INTRODUCTION

2. WEAVING PREPARATION

3. WEAVING PROCESS

4. WEAVING DESIGN

5. WEAVING PRODUCTION

6. WEAVING QUALITY

FABRIC TYPES

Woven Fabric

Constructed by Crossing or Interlacing

between Warp Yarn and Weft Yarn

Knitted Fabric

Constructed by Looping System of Weft

knit or Warp Knit

Non Woven

Constructed by Fiber Layers

FABRIC GROUPS

Woven Fabrics Knitted Fabrics

(Non Woven)

WOVEN FABRIC

Woven fabric consist of crossing or interlacing between horizontal and vertical yarn

Vertical yarn to be called warp yarn

Horizontal yarn to be called weft yarn

Crossing between warp yarn and weft yarn result woven fabric

ELEMEN T OF FABRICS

WARP

WEFT

PROCESS OF WEAVING

1. Weaving Preparation

2. Weaving Process

FLOW PROCESS OF WEAVING

RAW MATERIAL

WINDING WINDING

DOUBLING PIRN

TWISTING

WARPING

TYING-IN

WEAVING

WARP YARN WEFT YARN

WEAVING PREPARATION

PURPOSE :

1. Yarn preparation involve some

process to improve the yarn’s

weaveability, so that no difficulty in the

next weaving process

2. Make a suitable winding shape and

volume according to the next process

requirement.

WEAVING PREPARATION

Generally weaving preparation process consist of :

1. Winding

2. Doubling

3. Twisting

4. Warping

5. Drawing-in

6. Pirn Rewinding

Twisting

Winding

Doubling

Twisting

YARN CONDITION

YARN QUALITY :

Yarn Count Average

Yarn Twist Average

Tenacity and Elongation

Grade

Evenness

RAW INVENTORY

100 100 100 100 100 X X X X

X X 100 100 100 100 100 X X

X

- - - - - 2 2 2 1 1

OUTPUT

WASTE

MATERIAL (YARN)

Yarn Count : Indirect Count (the bigger yarn’s diameter means the rawer yarn

and the smaller yarn’s count)

Type : Ne (1, 2, 3, and 4) and Nm

Ne1 20 means number of 20 hanks strands in 1

pound of mass (1 Hank = 840 yard = 768 meter and 1 pound = 453,6 gram)

Nm 50 means number of 50 meters length in 1 gram of mass

Ne1 = Yarn length (hanks)/Yarn weight (pound)

Nm = Yarn length (meter)/ Yarn weight (gram)

THE MEANING OF HANK

• Ne1 One hank = 840 Yard

• Ne2 One hank = 300 Yard

• Ne3 One hank = 560 Yard

• Ne4 One hank = 256 Yard

MATERIAL (YARN)

Yarn Count : Direct Count (the smaller yarn’s diameter means the smoother

yarn and the smaller yarn’s count)

Type : Tex and Td

100 Tex means number of 100 grams of mass per 1000 meters length

150 D means number of 150 grams of mass per 9000 meters in length

Tex = 1000 x weight (gram)/length (meter)

Td = 9000 x Berat (gram)/Panjang (meter)

WINDING PROCESS

Purpose :

1. Rewinding yarns onto pirn sizes

2. Improve the quality of yarn that will be

processed, including : tenacity,

evenness, smoothness, and remove

unwell knotting

3. Repair the yarn’s winding

4. Improve production efficiency

Winding Machine

SCHEME OF WINDING MACHINE

Purpose :

1. To make doubling yarn according to the

next process in need

2. Prepare yarns that will be twisted

Basically in doubling process, the machine even

the process that will be used are same with

winding process. The different is only more than

one yarn feeding.

Doubling Process

PRODUCTION OF WINDING MACHINE

(SURFACE SPEED)

MOTOR

DRUM

3,14 X D X N

P1

T5 T3

T3

T2

T4 T1

P1

T2 X

P2

X X

X X X

P2

T4

T2

T1 T5

D

X D

X N

TWISTING PROCESS

Twisting process is doubling some yarns and then gived certain twist

TPC : Twist per cm TPI : Twist per Inchi TPM : Twist per meter

The purpose of twisting process is to improve quality

and performance of yarns even woven fabric from those

yarns, i.e : - Twist balancing - Tenacity - Bursting strength - Fancy effect - Luster fabric - Twill effect will be more clear (for weaving design)

Three kinds of twisting :

1. Down Twisting

2. Up Twisting

3. TFO

TWISTING

TWISTING ANIMATION

TWISTING

Down Twisting

Key :

1. Bobbin creel

2. Bar

3. Feeding Rol

4. Pig tail (lappet)

5. Bobbin pirn

6. Spindle

7. Thin Rol

8. Spindle tape

9. Ring Rail

10. Traveler

Up Twisting

Key :

1. Thin Roller

2. Spindle Tape

3. Spindle

4. Bobbin

5. Pig tail

6. Traverse Guide

7. Drum

TFO TWISTING

THE DIRECTION OF YARN TWIST

S Z S-TWIST Z-TWIST

There are 2 (two) kinds yarn twist : S-Twist and Z-Twist

Scheme of Twisted Yarn

Z

S

Z S S S S S

Z

THE RELATION BETWEEN RAW MATERIAL AND TWISTED YARN

• THE LENGTH OF YARN TO BE RESULTED = 500 METRES

• TWIST CONSTRACTION = 6 %

• THE LENGTH OF YARN BEFOREHAND (BEFORE TWISTED)

= 100/100 – 6 x 500

THE INFLUENCES TWIST DIRECTION ON FABRIC APPEARANCE

DULL BRIGHT

SEVERAL OF FANCY YARNS

- An operation where yarn is transferred from single

packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn

representing hundreds of ends and then wound

onto a warp beam.

THE AIM :

TO WIND YARN ON TO THE WEAVING BEAM,

that will be installed on weaving machine with

the position yarn horizontally

WARPING PROCESS

THE RESULT OF GOOD WARPING :

1. Warped Yarn shall be same in length

2. Position of warped yarn shall be parallel

3. Warped yarn in a weaving beam shall not too much full fill

4. Width of whole yarns in the weaving beam wider than reed width

5. Yarn length shall be longer than fabric length that will be weaved

6. Yarn surface on the beam shall be flat/ smooth

7. Cakra Beam shall not skewing

WARPING PROCESS

Type of Warping Device

1. Hand warper

2. Sectional warping machine

3. Direct warping machine

Warping Process

1

2

3

5 6 7 8

9

4

warping process

Scheme of Sectional Warping Machine

Key :

1. Yarn creel 6. Feeder Rol

2. Feeder Rol 7. Drum

3. Crossing Reed 8. Tension Rol

4. Warping Reed 9. Beam weaving

5. Warping Length Counter

Warping Process

Direct Warper Machine

Yarns in a weaving beam before

weaved needs drawing-in process

Drawing-in process including this

following process :

- Draws all the warp ends through the drop

wires

- Draws all the warp ends through the healds

- Draws all the warp ends through reed

According to the weaving design

DRAWING-IN PROCESS

TYING - IN TOOLS

TYEING – IN PROCESS

When mass producing the same fabric by simply

typing each end of a new beam to its

corresponding end of the old beam

TYEING – IN ON HARNESS WITH HAND

Tyeing - in machine

Tyeing-in process

WARP KNOTTING

HAND

TOOLS

PORTABLE

ELEMENT

MACHINE

KNOTED YARN WITH HAND

KNOTTED YARN WITH SPECIAL TOOL

Purpose :

To rewind the yarns from hanks, cone

or cylinder shapes onto weft bobbin

shape or pirn

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Attention to the following tips:

1. The longer yarn winding in the pirn is

better to increase efficiency

2. Choose the right type of pirn according

to the shuttle in used

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Winding Position

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Beginning traverse Ending traverse

Winding surface

WEAVING PROCESS DEFINITION :

Weaving is the making of woven fabric which being carried by interlacing warp yarn and weft yarn.

Weaving principle:

1. Shedding motion, rising and lowering the warp yarns

1. Weft insertion, insert weft yarn in to warp yarn

3. Beating motion, beat the weft yarn, enclose the weft yarn

SAMPLE-ANIMATION CONVENTIONAL WEAVING

Bill-Creation-Loom.flv

ANIMATION

THE PRINCIPE OF WEAVING

PRIMARY MOTIONS

&

SECONDARY MOTIONS

PRIMARY MOTIONS

Shedding Motion

Picking Motion

Beating Motion

(Process of Shedding Motion)

ROL

DOBBY

JACQUARD

(Mech. and Elect.)

THE SHAPE OF SHEDDING

UPPER SHAPE

LOWER

SIMETRICALLY

Picking Motion

SHUTTLE

(SHUTTLELESS)

NON MACHINE AND

MACHINE

MACHINE

: GRIPPER

RAPIER (FLEXIBLE DAN RIGID)

PROJECTILE

AIR JET LOOM

WATER JET LOOM

The Position of Beating Motion

CLOSED

OPENED

CROSSED

Secondary Motion

Let - off Motion

Take - up Motion

PART OF WEAVING SHUTTLE

Key :

1. Warp Beam

2. Cloth Beam

3. Shaft

4. Harness

5. Roller

6. Threadling

7. Beater

8. Beater shaft

9. Warp Yarn

10.Fabric

11. Shuttle

1

5

4

3

2

6

7

8

9 10

11

DRAWING SYSTEM

• MANUAL

• SOFTWARE (WEAVE DESIGN, WEAVE POINT, DB-DESIGN, NED-GRAF ETC)

WARP EFECT (WITH ROLLER – THREADLING)

1 2

1

2

1

2 3

PRACTICE

ONE ROLLER SYSTEM

THREADLING

DIRECT

THREADLING

THE WAY TO PLAN AND DRAW WEAVING DESIGN

AMERICA

SWISS

GERMANY

SCANDINAVIA

AMERICAN SYSTEM

A. Weave

B. Drawing-in

C. Threadling D. Threading

A

B

C

GERMANY - SWISS

SCANDINAVIA

CHASMERE-TWILL

• A. Weave

• B. Drawing-in, 1, 3, 2, 4

• C. Threadling, 1, 4, 2, 3

• D. Threading

• Heald 2 and 3 thread 1

• Heald 2 and 4 thread 4

• Heald 1 and 4 thread 2

• Heald 1 and 3 thread 3

PEGGING PLAN

ROLLER – THREADLING DOBBY

DOBBY PIN

CONSTRUCTION AND WEAVE

1. YARN COUNT

2. Yarn density

Number of yarns per cm or inch

– Warp dencity

– Weft dencity

CONS. FABRICS :

3. WEAVE

- PLAIN

- TWILL

- Satin

The Basic Weave

• Plain

•Twill

• Satin

SAMPLE FOR PEGGING PLAN PLAIN-TWILL-SATIN

PLAIN TWILL

SATIN

PEGGING PLAN PLAIN-TWILL-SATIN WITH DOBBY

PEGGING PLAN FOR COMBINATION DESIGN

BASIC CONSEP IN MATERIAL CALCULATION

Fabric specification:

- Warp Ne1 30

- Weft Ne1 30

- Fabric width 110 cm

- Reed number 64/2

- Pick/inchi 64 (weft dencity)

- Warp shrinkage 13 % (ML)

- Weft shrinkage 10 % (MP)

- Warp waste 5 % (LL)

- Weft waste 3 % (LP)

- Fabric length 500 meter

- Selvedge 32 ends

Nm = 1,693 Ne1

THE WEIGHT ABRV.

WARP WEIGHT :

100 100 WARP TOTAL

-------------- x -------------- x L FABRIC x ----------------- x 1 kg

100 - ML 100 - LL Ne1 x 1693

WEFT WEIGHT :

100 100 Pick x F WIDE

--------------- x -------------- x LF x ------------------------- x 1 kg

100 - MP 100 - LP Ne1 x 1693

THE NEED OF YARN

WARP YARN :

100 100 (43,3. 64) + 32

--------- x -------------- x 500 x --------------------- x 1 kg

100 - 13 100 - 5 30 x 1693

= 22,80 kg

WEFT YARN :

100 100 64 x 43,3

--------------- x -------------- x 500 x -------------- x 1 kg

100 - 10 100 - 3 30 x 1693

= 23,81 kg

THE TOTAL YARN TO BE NEEDED : 46,61 kg

THE MAGNITUDE OF PROD

• DEPEND ON :

• RPM FOR MACHINE

• WARP AND WEFT TOTAL

• YARN COUNT

• A KIND OF WEAVE

Production of Weaving (PRO 8 HOURS EFFECTIVELY)

• NON MACHINE (2 - 5 KG)

•

• Shuttle (5 - 10 KG )

• MODERN MACHINE (MORE

THAN 10 KG)

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