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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Timothy N HornyakGregor Clark
Montréal & Québec City
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Montréal ..... 4
Montréal’s Top 10 ............ 6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know .................14
Top Itineraries ................16
If You Like… .................... 18
Month by Month .............21
With Kids ........................ 24
Like a Local .................... 25
For Free ..........................26
Visiting Québec City ..... 27
Eating .......................... 30
Drinking & Nightlife .. 34Entertainment .............38Festivals ...................... 42Shopping ..................... 44
Plan Your Trip page 1
UnderstandMontréal & Québec City 221
Survival Guide 249
Montréal Maps 278
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Montréal & Québec City 46
Transportation ........... 250
Directory A–Z ..............255
Language .................... 260
Index .............................268
Montréal Today ...........222
History ..........................224
People & Culture .........232
Music & the Arts ..........236
Architecture .................242
Québec City History & Culture ........245
Neighborhoods at a Glance ......................... 48Old Montréal ..................50
Parc Jean-Drapeau ....... 73
Downtown ...................... 78
Quartier Latin & the Village ......................98
Plateau Mont-Royal ......110
Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont ........ 127
Southwest & Outer Montréal ............ 140
Québec City ................. 154
Day Trips from Montréal ...........198
Sleeping .................... 208
RO
LF HIC
KE
R P
HO
TOG
RA
PH
Y / ALA
MY ©
YV
ES M
AR
CO
UX
/FIRST LIG
HT/C
OR
BIS
©
RO
LF HIC
KE
R P
HO
TOG
RA
PH
Y / ALA
MY ©
Left: Québec City’s Old Lower Town (p163)
Above: Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours (p54)
Right: Quai Jacques-Cartier (p60)
Old Montréal
Quartier Latin& the Village
PlateauMont-Royal
Downtown
ParcJean-Drapeau
Little Italy,Mile End &Outremont
p78
p127
p110
p98
p50
p73
BR
EN
T WIN
EB
RE
NN
ER
/ LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
Neighborhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Old Montréal . . . . . . . .50Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .65Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .67Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 71
Parc Jean-Drapeau . . 73Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 76Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 76
Downtown . . . . . . . . . . 78Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 90Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 91Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 97
Quartier Latin &the Village . . . . . . . . . . 98Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Drinking & Nightlife . . . . .104Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .108Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Plateau Mont-Royal 110Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 119Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 124Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Sports & Activities . . . . . .126
Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont . . . 127Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129Drinking & Nightlife . . . . .136Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 137Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Sports & Activities . . . . . .139
Southwest & Outer Montréal . . . . .140Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150Drinking & Nightlife . . . . .150Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .150Sports & Activities . . . . . . 151
Québec City . . . . . . . 154Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Drinking & Nightlife . . . . .180Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .182Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Sports & Activities . . . . . .189Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Day Trips from Montréal . . . . . . . . . . 198Trois-Rivières . . . . . . . . . . .199The Laurentians . . . . . . . .201The Eastern Townships . 204
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .208
Explore Montréal & Québec City
46
Basilique Notre-Dame ......52
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal ............................ 80
Rue St-Denis ................... 100
Oratoire St-Joseph .......... 142
La Citadelle ......................155
Château Frontenac .........156
TOP SIGHTS
MONTRÉAL & QUÉBEC CITY'S
47
278
U-Bahn
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerry
UndergroundTrain Station
MonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube Station
Other Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
MontréalMaps
279
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PlaceÉmilie-Gamelin
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Université duQuébec à Montréal
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æ Top Sights (p100) 13 O'Thym ........................................................D3Rue St-Denis................................................B2
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1 Bibliothèque et Archives Nationale du 15 Apollon......................................................... E4Québec ......................................................C3 16 Circus...........................................................D3
2 Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes...........C4 17 Club Date Piano-Bar ..................................D43 Ecomusée du Fier Monde.......................... D1 18 Le Drugstore ............................................... E44 Église St-Jacques .......................................C3 19 Le Magellan Bar.......................................... B25 Église St-Pierre Apôtre ..............................E4 20 Le Saint-Bock..............................................C26 Université du Québec à Montréal .............C4 21 Le St-Sulpice...............................................B3
22 L'Île Noire.....................................................C3ú Eating (p101) 23 Pub Quartier Latin...................................... B2
7 Au Petit Extra .............................................. F2 24 Saloon .......................................................... E48 Juliette et Chocolat ....................................F4 25 Sky Pub & Club ........................................... E49 Kitchenette ..................................................E4 26 Stereo ..........................................................C4
27 Stud Bar....................................................... F411 Le Commensal ............................................B228 Unity.............................................................D312 Marché St Jacques.....................................D2
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#e
0 0.25 miles0 500 m
æ Sights (p75) ú Eating (p76)1 Biosphère.....................................................C2 9 Hélène de Champlain................................. C22 Casino de Montréal ....................................B3 Le Buffet ...............................................(see 2)3 Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve.............................A34 Jardins des Floralies...................................B3 ý Entertainment (p76)5 La Ronde ...................................................... D1 Casino de Montréal .............................(see 2)6 L'Homme .....................................................B27 Musée Stewart ............................................ C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p76)
Piknic Électronik ................................. (see 6) 10 Aquatic Complex........................................ B28 Plage des Îles...............................................A4 Plage des Îles .......................................(see 8)
Village des Neiges............................... (see 6)
PARC
JEA
N-D
RAPE
AU
299
PARC JEAN-DRAPEAU
Timothy N Hornyak Coordinating Author, Old Montréal, Parc Jean-Drapeau, Downtown, Quartier Latin & the Village, Plateau Mont-Royal, Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont, Southwest & Outer Montréal A native of Montréal, Tim grew up sledding down Mont-Royal and skiing in the Eastern Townships before his dreams of ninja took him to Japan for 10 years. He has written on Japanese cul-ture, technology and history for CNET News, Scientific American and the New
York Times, and has contributed to eight other Lonely Planet guidebooks. He is also the author of Loving the Machine: The Art and Science of Japanese Robots, his favorite robot being Astro Boy. He firmly believes that his hometown’s greatest contribution to life on Earth is the perfection of the bagel. He divides his time between Tokyo and Montréal. Timothy also wrote the Plan Mon-tréal, Understand Montréal and Survival Guide sections.
Gregor Clark Québec City A lifelong Francophile, Gregor was instantly smitten with Québec City on his first visit in 1981. Now a resident of neighboring Vermont, he regu-larly hops across the border for doses of French-Canadian culture and still rates Québec City as one of his two favorite North American cities (alongside San Francisco). He’s especially fond of Québec’s summertime Festival d’Été, but also enjoyed exploring the city’s snowier side while researching this edition. Gre-
gor has written more than 20 Lonely Planet guides since 2000, and in this guide also wrote the Day Trips, Visiting Québec City and Québec City History & Culture chapters.
Read more about Timothy at:lonelyplanet.com/members/timothyhornyak
Read more about Gregor at:lonelyplanet.com/members/gregorclark
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Dec 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 956 9© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day Two Downtown (p 78 )
M Start your tour of downtown Mon-tréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de
Montréal for its excellent collection of Old Masters and contemporary art. Architec-ture aficionados will dig the contemporary Desmarais pavilion as well as the newly added wing in an 1890s church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, home to tony shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University.
Canal de Lachine (p 143 )
R Hop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx and walk down to Marché Atwater
for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a cruise on the canal.
Downtown (p 78 )
N Upstairs has nightly jazz perform-ances, or better yet the jazz festival
will be rocking the blocks around Place des Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab a postdinner glass at the pubs along Rue Crescent or some laughs at Comedyworks.
Lunch m:brgr (p87) along Rue Drum-mond is a good spot for carnivores.
Dinner For incredible Québécois fare, try Joe Beef (p 85 ) if you can get in.
Day One Old Montréal (p 50 )
M Take the subway to Place-d’Armes and make a beeline for the stunning
Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cob-blestone streets of the old town, winding your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle Notre-Dame de Bonsecours. Stroll up Place Jacques-Cartier with its many busk-ers and artists, into the Château Ramezay museum.
Old Montréal (p 50 )
R Deepen your understanding of the city’s history at the excellent Musée
d’Archéologie Pointe-à-Callière before crossing Place d’Youville to Fonderie Dar-ling for its innovative contemporary-art installations and irresistible Cluny Art-bar, which has some most unusual seating choices.
Old Montréal (p 50 )
N If you’re not dining in style, grab a quick pizza at Bevo before catching
a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. You might also consider watching the sky turn various colors at sunset while downing a gin and tonic on the rooftop patio at Ter-rasse Nelligan. Dance the night away at scenester magnets Velvet and Garde Man-ger, which will rock you until 3am.
Lunch Le Gros Jambon (p 62 ) for pou-tine and other Québecois comfort food.
Dinner Toqué! (p 61 ) for its superlative cuisine and unforgettable service.
Top Itineraries
16
Day Four Parc Jean-Drapeau (p 73 )
M A river runs through it, dividing Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles.
Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of re-markable buildings from yesteryear. Learn about the environment and our impact on it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckmin-ster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo ’67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is the site of an authentic British garrison.
Parc Jean-Drapeau (p 73 )
R Wander the island’s walking paths, taking in the outdoor sculptures
before kicking up your heels at Piknic Électronik, a summertime electronica dancefest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but decidedly slower views of the city from 45m up on the Ferris wheel.
Parc Jean-Drapeau (p 73 )
N The island is a perfect spot to watch the sky explode with fire-
works during L’International des Feux Loto-Québec. If not, the Casino de Montréal has everything you need for a good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat ’67, the block-city also left over from Expo ’67. The winking lights of the Old Port will be beckoning you back across the water.
Lunch Snacks along the forested paths.
Dinner Ttry the excellent Québecois cuisine at Hélène de Champlain (p 76 ).
Day Three Little Italy, Mile End &Outremont (p 127 )
M Make for Little Italy to explore the mouthwatering Marché Jean-
Talon. Stroll down to the local church, the Église Madonna della Difesa, and be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. Browse the old-world shops along Blvd St-Laurent before hopping a bus to Mile End.
Little Italy, Mile End &Outremont (p 127 )
R Ramble down to Avenue Laurier, pausing at the excellent art pur-
veyor Galerie Simon Blais and hipster curiosities at Monastiraki. The top of Ave Laurier will put you within striking dis-tance of Parc du Mont-Royal, but you’ll still need to hop in a taxi to get close to the Kondiaronk lookout.
Plateau Mont-Royal (p 110 )
N Bus it down to Casa del Popolo and see what the hipster kids are
cheering for on stage – it could be jazz, electronica, folk or cabaret pop. To indulge your inner child, Candi is a syrupy-sweet bar with all manner of eye and mouth candy. Gogo Lounge is another good spot to kick back with a nightcap.
Lunch St-Viateur Bagel & Café (p 119 ) for the best dough rings in the world.
Dinner Le Filet (p 115 ) for its innovative local seafood with Japanese hints.
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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