modele crosetat 13

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Intermediate Knitting

The Intermediate level for knitting isdesigned for individuals who havelearned basic knitting skills. It is now timeto add to your knitting skills as you knit anarticle that may include pickup stitches,knitting short rows, knitting with circularand/or double pointed needles, andreading a chart for duplicate stitch ormosaic knitting. You will also be able toidentify and correct mistakes.

Knitting Notebook

Every knitter needs a notebook or file inwhich to keep useful information. Aloose-leaf three-ring notebook will workwell. Plan to keep copies of patterns andleaflets for future reference.

Additional Equipment and Supplies

Marker

Markers are used as guides in knitting.They may be placed in your work to markfuture measurements or placed on yourneedle between two stitches and slippedfrom one needle to the other. Horizontal MarkersWhen directions

call for a marker to be placed in thework, use a small length of yarn of acontrasting color; work this yarn alongwith the regular yarn for three or fourstitches. Leave this marker in your

work until it is completed.

Vertical MarkersRing markers madeof plastic or metal and are available atmost stores that carry yarn supplies.These markers are placed on yourneedles between stitches when thepattern directions read sl a marker onneedle or place marker on needle.

Stitch Holder

A stitch holder is a large plastic or metalsafety pin that is used to hold specificstitches while a pattern is being worked

around them. These stitches are slippedfrom the needles onto the holder. Laterthe stitches are returned to the needlesand worked according to the directions.For example, the stitch holder is used tohold sleeve stitches while the body of thesweater is being knitted.

Circular Needles

Circular needles are used for knitting in acomplete circle to avoid seams.However, they may be used for knittingback and forth in flat knitting, too. Forexample, they may be used to knitsleeves, ribbing, collars, or sweaterswithout seams.

CT-MMB.731


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Circular needles are single-pointed, rigidneedles connected by a thin, flexiblecable.

They are available in a variety of lengthsand sizes. Select the needle sizeaccording to the pattern directions andgauge required for the sweater. Selectthe needle length according to thenumber of stitches to be held on theneedle and your personal preference.Wide projects, such as sweaters, require

long needles.

Double-pointed Needles

Knitting on double-pointed needles isdone using four or five needles that havepoints on both ends. This type of knitting,like knitting on circular needles, is usedwhen you are knitting garments in whichyou wish to eliminate the seams. Usingmultiple needles enables you to createsmaller pieces, such as caps, socks,

mittens, sleeves, gloves, neckline, andarmhole ribbing without seams. Narrowknitted tubular shapes called I-cords areknitted using two double-pointed needles.Double-pointed needles are available in avariety of length and sizes.

KNITTING TIPS

As you continue to knit, you will want toincrease your skill in knitting. Here are afew tips to help you.

Check Gauge FrequentlyKnitting patterns will specify gauge.Making a sample square using the sameyarn and needle size as given in theinstructions should always be completedto check the gauge.

Without stretching, lay knitted sample outflat, put two pins exactly 2 inches apart,and count the stitches between.

Divide the number of stitches in half todetermine how many stitches per inch. Ifone inch has fewer stitches than thedirections call for, you need to usesmaller needles. If it has more stitches,you need to use larger needles. Theneedle sizes given in the knittinginstructions are only suggested sizes.Use any needle size that will produce thecorrect gauge.

Measure Your Work

Often the directions will tell you to workso many inches and then do a certainstep, making it necessary to measure thework. To do this, lay the work down on aflat surface with the needle at your left.Use a tape measure or ruler with its endplaced just under the needle andmeasure down to the starting point or tothe point indicated in the directions.


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Do not stretch the knitting. Simplysmooth the work out as it naturally wouldlie. Do not cheat yourself by trying tomake the work measure more than itreally does.

Keep a tape measure in your knittingbag to measure length or gauge asyou go along.

When you have to make many rowsof the same stitch, mark down eachrow on a piece of paper as you workitthen you will not have to keepcounting rows!

Always keep a pencil in your knittingbag to check off pattern directions,line by line, so you will always knowwhere you are. It eliminates chancesfor error as you stop and start.

MANY KINDS OF YARNS

There are hundreds of different kinds andtextures of yarn made available by anumber of manufacturers. Yarns arespun from many kinds of fibers, such as

nylon and acrylic. Many natural fibers arealso used. The natural fibers include notonly the common ones (wool, cotton,linen, and silk) but also hairy fibers suchas mohair and cashmere. Yarns may alsobe blends of two or more fibers.

The yarns may be fine and looselytwisted to produce soft, fluffy articles ortightly twisted to give a hard, smooth, andlong-wearing quality. Some yarns arecrinkly, giving a crepe finish, while othershave knots to give a nubby effect. Someheavy yarns are smooth and soft. Othersare rough and wooly. One group ofyarns, suitable for dressy garments,consists of tightly twisted strands withshiny or metallic fibers worked into them.There are also mixtures of colors. Someof these give perfect tweed effects. Yarnmay range in size from the very fine sportand baby yarns to the fat, lightweight"bulky" yarns that are now popular.

Each yarn manufacturer usually makesseveral yarns in a range of differingweights, fibers, and plies. These vary withthe manufacturer.

The weight and thickness of yarn and itsloft (lightness and texture), combined withthe stitch gauge determine the size of afinished article.

We hear about 2-ply, 3-ply, and 4-plyyarns, but the plydoes not determine theweight or thickness of the yarn. Plysimply means the number of strand (2, 3,or more) which have been twistedtogether to form the final thickness and

weight of the finished yarn. For example,a 3-ply yarn can be thicker than a 4-plyyarn. To determine the ply of a yarn, takea small piece of yarn in both hands,untwist it slightly, then push it together

just a little. You will be able to seeimmediately how many plies were twistedtogether to make the final strand.


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The above symbols have been introduced

to designate yarn weight. Refer to CraftYarn Councils Standards & Guidelinesfor Crochet and Knittingon the Web atwww.YarnsStandards.com for moreinformation on labeling.

WORKING WITH COLORS AND ACHART

To follow a pattern on a chart/graph, youpretend each square of the graph paper

is a stitch and each line or row of squaresacross the paper is a row of knitting.

When only a single contrasting color isused, the graph is very simple to read orfollow. Here is an example:

Duplicate Stitch

The duplicate stitch is a simple way toadd color and pattern to a plain piece of

knitting. After the knitting has beencompleted, thread a tapestry or yarnneedle with yarn of another color andduplicate the knitted stitches byembroidering over them. Keep the yarnloose enough to lie on top of work andcover the knitted stitch. To monogramyour sweater, use the graph at the end ofthis publication.

Mosaic Knitting

Mosaic knitting, also called slip knitting,involves the use of two colors of yarns toknit geometric patterns without carryingthe unused strand behind the work.Basically the unused strand is left to hangat the right end side the piece being

worked while using the other color to knitacross and back two rows at a time.

There are two basic ways to createmosaic knitting. In one method, everyrow is knit, creating a garter stitch andraised effect. The edges do not curl. Thisis the method used in this project and isan excellent method for making scarves,wall hangings, collars, and cuffs. Thesecond method, a stockinette stitch, iscreated be knitting across and purling

back. Stockinette is a good choice forsweaters.

Here are a few tips for mosaic knittingthat you'll need to remember.

On all right-side rows, all slipstitches (abbreviated sl) are slippedwith the yarn held behind the stitchas it is slipped. On all wrong-siderows, all slipstitches are slipped withthe yarn in front of the stitch as it isslipped.

All slipped stitches are slipped purl-wise on right- and wrong-side rows.

On every wrong-side of the garterstitch mosaic knitting, you knit andslip the same stitches that were knitand slipped on the preceding right-


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side row, with the same color.Therefore, each row on the colorchart/graph represents two rows ofknitting.

When reading the color chart/graph,

start at the lower right hand corner.Double-Knitting/Reversible Knitting

Double-knit fabric has two layers of fabric,and you knit both layers at the same time.This type of knitting is good for scarves.

To begin, do a double cast on by holdingthe two yarns to be used together andcast on as one. This will give you twoloops per cast on stitch. For the first row,

with both yarns in back, knit one stitch incolor A with color A yarn, bring bothyarns to front and purl one stitch in colorB with color B yarn. Repeat across therow. Turn, with yarn in back, knit one ofcolor B. Bring both yarns to the front andpurl one of color A. Repeat across row.Designs can be knitted in as you go byswitching which color is knitted on thefront and which is purled for the backaccording to a design chart. Bind off by

knitting two stitches together with bothyarns. You will want to cover your cast onand bind off edges with fringe.

KNITTING WITH DOUBLE-POINTEDNEEDLES

When knitting with four needles, thestitches are divided as evenly as possibleon each of three needles. The fourthneedle is used to knit the stitches. Thistype of knitting is worked in rounds ratherthan rows. It is always worked in onedirection, round and round. Thestockinette stitch, which on straightknitting needles is produced by knittingone row and purling the next, is producedautomatically by knitting each round.Some sets of needles have five needles,

just divide the number of total stitches byfour to determine the number of stitcheson each and knit with the fifth needle.

How to Cast On Four NeedlesThe stitches may be cast on in one of two

ways. You may cast all of the stitches onone needle and then place a third of thestitches on each of the other two needles.Or, you may cast them on the threeneedles directly by casting on a third ofthe number of stitches on one needle,placing the second needle to the left ofthe first needle, and casting on anotherthird of the stitches. Then do the samewith the third needle. A fourth needle maybe used if needed and the number of

stitches divided by four.

Arrange the needles to form a triangle ona flat surface being careful that the caston edge does not twist.

Carefully pick up the three needles andhold the first needle in your left hand andthe third needle in your right hand withthe yarn in position to knit. Insert the freeor fourth needle into the first stitch on theleft-hand needle.


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CORRECTING MISTAKESBefore you can correct mistakes, youmust learn to recognize them. The mostcommon mistakes in knitting are droppedstitches, holes, twisted stitches, and splitstitches.

It is easier to learn to recognize andcorrect mistakes when you are workingwith the stockinette stitch because youhave a right and wrong side to your work,and it is easier to tell a knit stitch from apurl stitch.

Dropped StitchA dropped stitch is caused by a stitchfalling off the needle. When you drop astitch, it must be picked up and placed onthe needle. Whenever possible, pick up adropped stitch on the right side of yourwork. Use a crochet hook to catch thedropped stitch. Work the yarn up on thehorizontal yarn of each row as shownbelow.

Continue in this manner until you reachthe row being worked. Be careful not totwist the stitches. Pick up purl stitches asshown below.

To pick up dropped stitches whenworking in the garter stitch, alternate the

two movements above.

Holes

A hole in knitting may be caused by:

Having the yarn in the wrong positionfor a knit or purl stitch;

Putting the project down in the middleof a row and then resuming theknitting in the wrong direction; or

Failing to interlace or twist the yarn

when changing colors.To correct a hole in your knitting, unravelthe stitches by removing the knitting fromthe needles. Pull the yarn slowly andgently out of the stitches. Unravel theknitting to the row above the one with thehole.

To put the stitches back on the needle,use a smaller needle because it is easierto slip into the stitches. Hold the knitted

fabric in your left hand with the loops atthe top and the yarn from the skeincoming from the stitch in the upper right-hand corner.

Hold the needle in your right hand. Slipthe needle into the stitch below theexposed loop, holding the yarn in your lefthand.


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Gently pull the yarn out of the singlestitch.

Repeat until all stitches have been putback on the needle. Now the stitches areon the needle in the correct position forworking the next row, and none is lost or

dropped.

Twisted Stitch

If you look closely at the right side (or knitside) of a knitted fabric worked in thestockinette stitch, you will see that eachstitch is a V. If you gently pull the fabricby holding it on each side, the V will openup or separate at the bottom. If a stitch istwisted, the yarn is crossed at the bottomor base of the stitch. When you pull on

the fabric, the twisted stitch V will notseparate but will pull together moreclosely.

When you have twisted a stitch or madethe mistake of knitting a purl stitch orpurling a knit stitch, work over to thatpoint in the work directly above where themistake has been made. Drop this stitch

from the needle and down to the twistedstitch. Using a crochet hook and havingthe knit side of the same stitch facing you,pick up the stitch as you would anydropped stitch.

Split StitchSeparating the strand of yarn wheninserting the knitting needle into a stitchcauses a split stitch. To correct the error,follow the directions for dropped stitches,holes, or twisted stitches.

Additional Hint

When putting stitches back on a needle,insert the right-hand needle from back tofront through each stitch. Insert the left-

hand needle from front to back througheach stitch. This prevents twistedstitches.

INTERMEDIATE KNITTING SKILLS

The increase stitch you have learned isthe one you will use when the increase ison the edge of the garment or forms apart of the design of a garment. There

are times when you do not want theincrease to show, so lets learn to do ablind increase.

Just as in decreasing, increasing may bemade to slant either to the left or to theright.

Blind Increase Slanting to the Right

Work across the row to the point wherethe increase is to be made. Before

working the increase, turn the work on theleft-hand needle slightly toward you sothat you can see the back of the workover the top of the needle. Make yourincrease by inserting the right-handneedle, from the top down, into the backof the stitch below the stitch on the left-hand needle and knit this loop as a stitch.Now return the left-hand needle to the


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proper position and knit the stitch on theneedle (this is the stitch above the stitchthe increase was worked in) in the usualway.

Blind Increase Slanting to the Left

Work across the row to the point where

the increase is to be made. With the left-hand needle, from back to front of thework, pick up the stitch right below thestitch just made on the right-hand needle.This puts an extra stitch on the left-handneedle. Knit into the back of this addedstitch for your increase stitch.

Make oneanother way to increase.

With the tip of the right-hand needle, liftthe yarn strand between the last stitchknitted and the next stitch on the left-handneedle. Place it on the left-hand needleand knit into the back of it to increase onestitch.

Picking up Stitches

Stitches are most frequently picked upalong an edge of a piece already knitted,such as the neck and armhole edges of asweater.

To pick up stitches, hold the work with theright side toward you. Hold the free end ofa skein of yarn against the garment withyour left hand until you get started. Thisloose end is afterwards fastened into thework and concealed.

Hold the needle and yarn in your righthand in the regular way. Work from rightto left. Insert the needle into the first rowin from the edge and knit stitches onto theright-hand needle.

The directions will specify a number ofstitches to be picked up. Make them fit

into the space allotted.

When picking up the irregular edgeformed by increases or decreases, besure to insert your needle into every row,whether the knitting is tight or loose.

When picking up stitches at the armhole,work from front to back on the leftarmhole, and from back to front on theright armhole.

Casting On Stitches by Knitting OnWhen you are casting on stitches in themiddle of a garment, two threads are notavailable, and it is necessary to use amethod known as knitting on. When thedirections tell you to cast on while you aremaking a garment, you must first turnyour work. The right-hand needle


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becomes the left-hand needle and viceversa. The needle to which the yarn isattached is in your left hand. Insert theneedle now in your right hand into thestitch nearest the top of the left-handneedle.

When a new stitch is drawn out, (do notpull the old stitch off the left needle.

Instead, transfer the new stitch on theright-hand needle onto the left-handneedle.

Make the next stitch in the stitch justcompleted. This process is continueduntil the required number of stitches hasbeen cast on. Then the work is turnedagain and the regular knitting is resumed.

I-Cord

Using double-pointed needles cast on 2

to 4 stitches. With the second double-pointed needle, knit all the stitches. Donot turn the needle. Instead slide thestitches to the right-hand end of theneedle, so the first knitted stitch is at thetip of the left-hand needle and the laststitch knitted is farthest away from the tip.Insert right needle, knit-wise, into first

stitch, bring yarn across the back of thepiece, and use it to knit as usual. Knit theremaining stitches and repeat slidingstitches back to the right-hand end ofneedle. Continue knitting and slidingstitches until desired length. End by

knitting two stitches together across, cutyarn and thread through remaining loopsand draw tight. I-cords can be used tomake loops, handles, and drawstrings.

SEAMS

Previously directions were given forjoining knitted garments with a flatovercast seam and a backstitch seam.

Lets learn some additional ways ofjoining seams.

Woven Seam

Place the two pieces to be joined withedges together evenly, right side up.

If you have a yarn on either piece longenough to sew your seam, use it.Otherwise, thread a piece of the sameyarn you used in your garment into yourtapestry needle and attach the yarn with a

slip knot to the wrong side of the piece onthe right. Leave about two inches of yarnon the end of the knot. Do not cut theyarn close to the knot since the knot maycome untied.


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Insert the needle into the back side of thefirst stitch on the right-hand side andbring the needle up to the right side ofwork through the first stitch on the leftedge.

Insert the needle down through the centerof the first stitch on the right edge, passunder two rows, and draw the yarnthrough to the right side.

Insert the needle in the center of thestitch on the corresponding row of the leftedge, pass under two rows as before,and draw the yarn through to the rightside. Continue to work in this mannerfrom side to side, matching rows.

Be careful not to pull the yarn too tightlyas the seam must have elasticity.

Crocheted Seam

Use the same yarn used to knit the

garment and a crochet hook large enoughnot to split the yarn, yet small enough togo through the stitches easily. If using 4-ply yarn, you may split it and use only 2-ply for the seam.

In your left hand hold the two pieces to bejoined with right sides together, wrongside out. Attach the yarn on the bottom

piece; with the crochet hook pull the yarnthrough to the top side with a slip loop.

Insert the hook through the first stitch ofthe top piece (one stitch in from the edge)and then through the corresponding stitch

in the other piece. In other words, workinto corresponding rows of knitting oneither side. Catch the yarn with the hookand draw it through the slip loop on thehook. Do the same thing in the next rowof knitting and repeat this procedurealong the entire seam.

This method of crocheting a seam givesslightly more elasticity and strength thana sewn seam.

The Kitchener Stitch

The Kitchener stitch is used to join two

edges together by weaving the yarn endback and forth between loops on a frontand back needle. When done properly,this seam appears as if the seam is"knitted" together and is virtually invisible.It can be used to join shoulders and isoften used to finish off the toe ends ofsocks.

At the completion of your knitting, cut theyarn, leaving a 15- to 20-inch tail. The twoneedles with the stitches should be held

even and parallel, with the yarn at theright end of the back needle.

Thread the yarn into a yarn needle andwork as follows:

1. *Insert yarn needle into the first stitchon the front needle as if to knit andslip stitch off. Insert yarn needle intosecond stitch on front needle as if to


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purl, draw yarn through but leavestitch on front needle.

2. Insert yarn needle into first stitch onback needle as it to purl and slipstitch off. Insert yarn needle intosecond stitch on back needle, as if toknit, draw yarn through but leave

stitch on back needle. Repeat from *until only one stitch remains on eachneedle. End by slipping last stitch onfront needle off as if to knit and thenslipping last stitch from back needleas if to purl. Draw yarn to wrong sideand conceal end.

KNITTED SOCKS

Knitted socks have several advantagesover other types. They are snug andwarm for winter wear. Wool is veryabsorbent. Knitted wool socks keep thefeet dry by wicking perspiration awayfrom the skin. Therefore, they arewonderful to wear for recreationalactivities. For this same reason peoplewho have trouble with athlete's foot havefound wool socks very helpful, becausemoisture aggravates the condition. Yarn

must contain at least 25 percent wool toget the benefit of its absorbency.

To make your knit socks wear muchlonger, always remember to reinforce theheels and toes with nylon. A special yarnis made just for this purpose. Choose aneutral color that will blend with your woolyarn. Reinforce your socks even if the

directions do not call for it. All you do isattach the nylon yarn to your work justbefore starting the heel and work it alongwith the wool yarn. Then when you finishturning the heel, fasten off the nylon.Attach the nylon again just before you

start the shaping of the toe.

In order for a sock to fit snugly at theankle, the top must have elasticity.Therefore, it is usually knit in ribbing onsmaller needles than the remainder of thesock. The stitches must be cast onloosely in order for the top to slip over thethick part of the heel. It is a good idea touse a larger size needle to cast on thancalled for in the sock directions.

Heels

There are several ways to shape the heelwhen knitting socks. The French heel ismade with rows of alternate knitting thatensures longer wear and softer comfort.

French heel:To make a French heel,follow the directions you are using untilthey say shape the heel. At that point,with the number of heel stitches called forin the directions (here we are using 30

stitches as an example), proceed asfollows: Attach nylon heel and toe yarn.

Row 1: Wrong side. Slip 1 stitch (slipas if to purl), p to end of row.

Row 2: Holding both strands of yarnat back of work, slip 1 stitch, k1;repeat from to end of row.


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Repeat these two rows for two inchesor desired length to form a square,ending with a p row.

**Turn heel as follows:Knit across half the number of stitches

on the needle plus 2 extra stitches. K17 (15 +2) stitches, k2 tog, k 1, turn.

Row 1: Slip 1, p 5, p 2 tog, p1, turn.Row 2: Slip 1, k 6, k 2 tog, k 1, turn.Row 3: Slip 1, p 7, p 2 tog, p1, turn.

Continue in this manner, always havingone more stitch before decrease, thusalways knitting or purling the 2 stitchestog on each side of hole, until 16 stitchesremain on needle. This is called turningthe heel because the work is turned afterevery decrease.

Pick up the side stitches according to thedirections or as follows: k 8 stitches (onlast row you had purled, decreasing to 16stitches) and leave on needle. Needle No.1: k 8 stitches (remaining

half of heel stitches) and with sameneedle pick up 15 stitches or requirednumber of stitches along side of heelpiece.

Needle No. 2: Work across instepstitches.

Needle No. 3: Pick up 15 stitchesalong other side of heel piece, kacross remaining 8 stitches.

Toes

The two methods used most often forshaping the toes when knitting socks arethe round toe method and the woven toemethod.

To shape a round toe, the toe of the sockis tapered gradually by decreasing, ascalled for in the directions, until only a fewstitches remain. These remaining stitchesare then drawn together and fastened asyou would the tip of a mitten.

When using the woven toe method,decreasing also shapes the toe until thereare usually 12 to 20 stitches remaining.When the toe is finished, the remainingstitches are divided on two needles(usually from 6 to 10 stitches on each

needle) and then they are woven togetherwith the Kitchener's stitch. There must bean even number of remaining stitches.

KNITTING A SWEATER

When beginning a large project like asweater, read the pattern directionscarefully before beginning. The patternmay direct you to cast on stitches and

complete the ribbing on straight needlesand then change to circular needles. Doyou have straight needles of the correctsize?

Selecting Pattern Size and Yarn

The joy of wearing a hand-knitted sweaterdepends on the care you use in selectingthe correct pattern size for your figure.Most knitting patterns have directions forknitting several sizes. To choose the bestsize for you, compare your bodymeasurements to those listed on thepattern. Depending on the pattern, youwill want to measure your body at thefollowing points:

Your Measurements inches cmChestWidth across back atunderarmLength from back ofneck to bottom edge ofsweaterLength from underarm tobottom edge of sweaterLength of sleeve atunderarmWidth of sleeve at upperarm


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When you compare your bodymeasurements to the patternmeasurements, the finished knittedmeasurements should be slightly largerthan your body measurements.

Before you start to knit, go through thedirections and circle the numbers for yoursize. Then you will not accidentally workthe wrong number of stitches as you knit.

Knitting to Fit

Knitting is different from sewing in thatyou produce the fabric and shape thegarment to fit your measurements as youknit, whereas in sewing you begin bycutting the fabric according to the pattern

shapes. For this reason, it is important tocalculate the fit of a knitted garmentbefore you begin knitting. After you havespent hours knitting something, it is verydisappointing not to be able to wear itbecause it doesnt fit you well!

The most important thing to know is thestitch gauge given in the patterninstructions. Then be sure you knit to thatgauge.

Check your body measurements againstthe measurements given for the varioussizes. Pattern sizes for knitted sweatersdiffer from ready-to-wear sweater sizes.Your commercial book of knitting patternswill have a size chart with garmentmeasurements; at the beginning of theinstructions for each garment, the sizerange will be given. Ease must beallowed for a comfortable fit, soremember that in addition to your actual

body measurements, you need to addcomfort or wearing ease allowance.For example, it is desirable to have 3 to 4inches at the bustline whether or not asweater (or any other knitted garment) isdesigned to fit snugly. Your bodymeasurement at bustlinefor example,32 inchesplus 4 inches for ease equals36 inches. Pattern gauge given is 7

stitches per inch. Multiply 36 inches by 7,for a total of 252 stitches needed.

Check the pattern instructions to find outthe total number of stitches there will beat the widest part of the sweater

(bustline). Remember to include thenumber of stitches added (if youincreased) to the number cast on.Compare the total number of stitches onthe needles to the number required (252)to determine whether the sweater will fit.If in the size you selected there are notenough or there are too many stitches togive you the correct fit, change to thegarment size that you need for acomfortable fit.

Corrections for length are made byknitting more or fewer rows than calledfor. The length of sleeves from underarmto lower edge should be checked againstyour arm length. Also compare with yourmeasurements the length of a sweaterfrom underarm to lower edge and skirtlength from waistline to lower edge.Remember: It is essential that you knitto the proper gauge in order to get thecorrect fit.

Yarn

After a pattern size has been determined,you can buy the right amount of yarn.Always buy the specified amount with thesame dye lot number. Also select thetype of yarn specified in the patterndirections (for example, 4-ply knittingworsted). The wrapper on each skein ofyarn tells you what you need to know:fiber content, ply, dye lot number, weight,care recommendations, plus informationon whether the yarn is colorfast,mothproof, and preshrunk.


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Shaping Shoulders by Turning(Short Rows)

By turning instead of binding off to shapeshoulders, a neat diagonal line is formedthat can be bound off in one line, and

front and back sections may be graftedtogether. Or when the shoulder shapinghas been completed, the back and frontshoulder stitches may be woven togetherwith the Kitchener stitch. The directionsgiven here are for a shoulder of 28stitches with a turn made every 7th stitch(3 turns). A turn may be made after anynumber of stitches, depending on theslant desired.

To Shape Left Back or Right FrontShoulder

Follow the directions for armhole shapinguntil you reach the shoulder shaping row.

1st turn row: On the right or knit sideof work, knit across to last 7 stitches(k 21 sts), bring yarn forward as if topurl, slip next stitch (which is the 7thstitch from end of left needle) andpass the yarn around and to the backof work again.

Return the slipped stitch to the leftneedle (make sure stitch is nottwisted), turn work, and purl backacross row.

2nd turn row: Knit 14, bring yarn tofront of work as if to purl, slip nextstitch, and pass yarn around to backof work again. Return slipped stitch toleft needle, turn, and purl back acrossrow.

3rd turn row: Knit 7, bring yarn to frontof work, slip next stitch, and pass yarnto back of work. Return slipped stitch

to left needle, turn, and purl backacross row. (Three turns completed.)Bind off all 28 stitches or place themon a stitch holder if shoulders are tobe woven together with the Kitchenerstitch.

To Shape Right Back or Left FrontShoulder

Shape by working on wrong or purl sideof work.

1st turn row: Purl across to 7th stitchfrom end (p 21 sts), slip next stitch,pass yarn around slipped stitch to knitside of work, and return slipped stitchto left needle. Turn work and knit back

across row.

2nd turn row: Purl 14 stitches, slipnext stitch, put yarn around slipped

stitch to knit or front of work. Returnslipped stitch to left needle, turn, andknit back across.

3rd turn row: Purl 7 stitches, slip nextstitch, wrap yarn around slipped stitchto front of work, and return slippedstitch to left needle. Turn and knitback across row. Bind off all 28stitches.

Set-in Sleeves

It takes a great deal of care and patienceto set a sleeve into the body of a sweaterso that it fits properly and looks neat. Toset sleeves into a sweater, carefullyfollow these steps:


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Place the sleeve into the armseye(armhole) of the sweater with right sidestogether.

With the sleeve side facing you, usestraight pins to pin the sleeve in the

armseye, matching underarm seams andcenter top of the sleeve with the shoulderseam. With the sleeve side still facingyou, pin from the underarm seam, easingin any fullness 2 inches on each side ofthe top of the sleeve.

Turn the work. With the body side of thesweater facing you, attach the yarn, andwork the seam with a back stitch or slipstitch with a crochet hook(see directionsfor crocheted seam). If you follow the

rows of knitting as a guide, your seamshould be smooth, straight, and even.

Finishing Your Sweater

When all parts of your sweater have beenknitted, you can add the finishing touchesto complete your sweater. Read the labelon the skein of yarn to see if blocking isnecessary. If you used wool yarn, followthese instructions:

Blocking by Steam

Place the garment on a flat, paddedsurface with the right sides of the garmenttogether. Pin the edges to themeasurements given in the directions;use rust-proof pins, about inch apart.

Note: If your garment is made inseparate pieces, such as the back, front,and sleeves, two identical pieces shouldbe blocked at the same time.

Place a damp cloth over the piecesalready pinned; then steam with a hotiron held just barely above the dampcloth.

Leave the garment pinned untilthoroughly dry.

Remove the pins and sew up theseams by the desired method.

Steam seams on the wrong side.

Note: It is best never to block theribbing of a garment. If your sweater ismade of synthetic yarn, follow thewashing directions recommended on theyarn label.

Care of Sweaters

Save the skein band/label from the yarnused in the project to find the careinstructions. Follow the informationspecified by the manufacturer. For bestresults, do not allow a knitted sweater tobecome excessively soiled.Caring for your sweater after eachwearing will keep it looking like new andmake it wear longer. After each wearing,let your sweater air over night, or atleast for a few hours. Then fold it neatlyand store it in a drawer, chest, or box.Sweaters should not be hung on a hangerbecause hanging causes them to pull outof shape.

Sweaters often acquire little fuzz ballseither from wear or washing. A fuzz-remover can be purchased from your drycleaner or clothing store. A brush, finesandpaper, or emery board may also beused.

Whether you use a fuzz-remover or abrush to remove fuzz balls from yoursweaters, brush very lightly and gentlysince too much pressure will harm thefibers.


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This publication is based onLets Learn to Knit with Pickup Stitches, Lets Learn to Knit with DifferentThicknesses and Textures of Yarn, and Knitting with a Combination of Colorswritten by JoAnn Hilliker,State Extension Specialist in Clothing and Textiles, Kentucky Cooperative Extension, 1978-1980. Many ofthe illustrations in these publications were courtesy of the Educational Bureau, Coats and Clark, Inc.

Marjorie M.Baker, M.S.FSC Extension Associate for Textiles and ClothingDecember 2005

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national or igin

Chart for duplicate stitch monogramming

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