MLACWS Membership Manual

2011 History of McLennan County Texas People began arriving in what is now McLennan County in the 1830s. The Texas Rangers established a Fort in 1837 but it was abandoned as it was deemed too far away from settlements. People continued to come to the county, and by 1850, the required 100 signatures were available to prepare a petition for the establishment of McLennan County. The county was established in January of 1850 and quickly established a county government located in the county seat of Waco. The city of Waco is located about an hour south of Dallas, its most important crop was cotton, and cattle were its most profitable livestock. When the county was organized, there were 4 settlements: the community of Waco; Earth, eight miles northwest of Waco; Bold Springs, east of the Brazos River and about 14 miles north of Waco; and White Rock, about 10 miles north of Waco near the present community of Ross. The development of the community of West began with the establishment of a settlement at Bold Springs (the original spelling was Bould Springs as evidenced by 1856 and 1870 postmarks), a small flowing spring located on with is now the Clyde Bennett farm at the northeast corner of the intersection of Interstate Hwy 35 and SFR 1895, adjacent to the city limits of West. Sometime prior to the establishment of a stagecoach route from Dallas to Waco village in 1852, an early settler named Carey Boulds, probably a “squatter”, built a small cabin on the hill about 100 yards from the spring which bears his name. The cabin was a single room structure of logs and chinking, with a stick and mud chimney. It was about 18 X 24 feet. This was one of the first cabins in northeastern McLennan County. As the Civil War began, many of the male residents left their homes to join the ranks of the Confederate Army. These and many other able bodied men who had settled in northeastern McLennan County had worked hard to turn the land from a wilderness into a rural farming community. The population of the Bold Springs area had increased from a few Indian inhabitants to over 300 industrious Anglo-American residents.

C.F.I. Addendum to M-LACWS Manual

A Guide for Re-enacting with The Citizens for Independence The Citizens for Independence (CFI) is a family orientated group of Civil War reenactors whose purpose is to present to the public a historically accurate impression of Southern Civilian Life during the time of the War Between the States. The CFI attempts to give a glimpse of everyday life and home-front activities for a typical town during this era. Presentations to the public on everyday life during the war are made through:

1. Our dress – reproducing historically accurate clothing 2. Our First Person Impressions – the character we portray at Civil War

Events 3. Our Surroundings – living in as near to “period correct living quarters” as

possible during a reenactment. The following information has been gleaned from several resources after much research and has been prepared to help the newcomer in getting started with their civilian impression. Good luck and welcome to reenacting with the Citizens for Independence of Bould Springs, Texas!

Our Dress – Reproducing Historically Accurate Clothing

Women‟s Clothing had several characteristics in common throughout this period, and these general stylistic details should be present in reproduction clothing. Dresses of the period were styled so that the shoulder seam fell in a diagonal across the back of the dress, and the sleeves were joined to the dress at a point about two inches below the natural shoulder line. The waistline of a dress should be at or slightly above the natural waist, and either a hooped petticoat for a day dress, or a corded petticoat for a work dress supports the skirt. A variety of fabrics were available for dressmaking, but beginning reenactors unfamiliar with fabrics of the period are best advised to begin by using solid color materials until they learn about prints and patterns. Dresses worn for daywear universally had a high, jewel neckline and full-length sleeves, which came in a variety of shapes. Low-necked dresses were reserved for only the most formal occasions – the 21st century equivalent would be a “white tie” function. They are inappropriate for wear at most reenactments

except at formal dances. Ladies customarily wore a bonnet or some other style of headgear appropriate to their age and their activities.

For a civilian woman‟s impression, the basic items you will need are:

Undergarments – chemise, corset, stockings, drawers, and petticoats

- A chemise, one petticoat, and stockings are the most important. - As soon as possible, you should add the drawers, an under-petticoat or modesty slip, and another petticoat. - To have a correct impression, you should eventually add a corset.

Dresses – - The most practical for the CFI would be a “work dress”, as we do a lot of group cooking. However, a “day dress” that is not too fancy would work too depending on the type of impression you will be doing. Shoes –

- Correct reproduction shoes or period-looking boots. They style for the 1860‟s is a leather shoe with square or round toes, not pointed, and low if any heels.

Headgear –

- Something appropriate to our age and style of dress like a bonnet, hat, or day cap.

Hair –

- One of the more difficult aspects about reenacting for women is the hair. It‟s hard to get used to parting the hair down the middle and pulling it back, but that‟s how they did it then and how we have to do it now. If your hair is short, a hairpiece will be necessary. Hairpieces were quite common in he 1860‟s (referred to as “false hair”). If your hair is long, it will be much easier for you to style your hair appropriately.

Men‟s Clothing Men‟s clothing is less complicated. Men‟s frock coats were the standard “suit” of the day. Sack coats, which were shorter and less tailored, were slowly beginning to replace frock coats for day wear, but were still considered to be sportswear or work clothes during the Civil War period. Most frock and sack coats were made in sober, dark colors, but waistcoats and trousers could sometimes be checked, plaid, or in some other fancy design. Neckties of various fabrics gradually replaced old-fashioned cravats and stock. They were usually were black or dark colored. A gentleman was considered to be undressed without a hat or coat, and so it would be very rare to see men in just their shirtsleeves. The trousers should be without creases front and back. They should extend a couple of inches above the waist, suspended by braces (suspenders) rather than by a belt at the waist.

Children‟s Clothing Children‟s clothes closely mimicked the styles worn by their mamas and papas, differing only in length and fabrics. Little girls often wore aprons and pinafores to keep dresses clean. Children under the age of five or six, regardless of sex, wore dresses. Note to All Reenactors Whether Male or Female;

1. Ladies – no nail polish (It wasn‟t around in the 1860‟s) 2. Piercings – The only body part that was pierced were women‟s ears and

only one set of piercings. Please remove jewelry from other piercings for the events.

3. Wristwatches – Please remove them. Gentlemen and Ladies would use pocket watches.

4. Eyeglasses – You will not be asked to remove your modern glasses at your first event, but you should expect to replace them with either period-style glasses or contacts as soon as possible.

5. No polyester, zippers, or Velcro. If you are unsure of whether or not an item was used, research is very easy and interesting to do. Also, ask another reenactor. However, do not base you answer on one reenactor‟s response. There is a lot of bad information being passed on by reenactors with good intentions. We all want to help you get started and sometimes shortcuts are suggested that will cost you later on in your reenacting career. So, try to get as close to correct as possible in the beginning so that you haven‟t waste money on something that will need to be replaced in a few months. Some good books to read to begin with are First Impressions: Getting Started in Civilian Reenacting, Who Wore What or a copy of The Citizens’ Companion.

Our First Person Impression – The Character We Portray at Events

It is very important to decide early on what “type” of character you will portray. This helps you in choosing your clothing for yourself. It also adds to the fun of reenacting. The members of the CFI have chosen “first person” names and we try to address each other by these names at events. Your persona is something that will take time to build, but get started thinking in terms of who you want to portray, why you have chosen this character, and what they were doing during the war years. You will, undoubtly, be asked to tell a spectator about yourself at events. Spectators love to talk to us and that is our purpose for being at reenactments. We educate the public about the Civil War. We need to be accurately informed in what we relay to the public.

Our Surroundings – Period Correct Living Quarters

The CFI portrays the small town of Bould Springs, Texas. Our tents are our homes during an event, as it is not feasible to go into each event and build small houses. We try to set up our homes with living quarters as might have been seen in the town of Bould Springs during the war. As such, we are trying to become less “farb” and more authentic. “Farb” things are items that are not true to the time period. It‟s quite tempting to go to a Sutler‟s tent and begin purchasing everything they have in the way of furniture to outfit our quarters. However, use caution. A lot of what the Sutlers sell is stuff that is easy for reenactors to pack, but not necessarily what would have been in homes during the period we are portraying. Most of it is strictly for the military as, during the war, the sutlers followed the military. Again, do your research. There are hundreds of books in the library that have pictures of furniture and furnishings that were prevalent during the 1860‟s. We are also trying to “clean up our act” by not having non-period plastic, pop cans, containers, coolers in the view of the public at any time. Please help us in this respect. All of us like to have our 21st Century beverages during the heat of the day. While you are in your tent, transfer it into a period cup or glass before bringing it out. If we are all diligent about staying “in the period” not only will we impress the public, but also our fellow reenactors.

Fire Safety

Part of our impression requires the use of campfires. We use these fires for cooking and heat. The following guidelines are essential and will not only protect our members, but spectators and event sites.

x Fire pits on sod, are to be cut into the ground so that the sod can be folded back and returned in place with minimal witness marks.

x The area around the pit is to be cleared of materials that could spread the fire from the pit.

x Keep plenty of water handy and have a shovel for throwing dirt on the fire if it gets out of control.

x Stack extra firewood upwind and away from the fire area. x Keep the campfire small. A good bed of coals or a small fire surrounded

by rocks give plenty of heat. x After lighting the fire, make sure your match is out cold. x Never leave a campfire unattended. Even a small breeze could quickly

cause the fire to spread. x Do not continue to feed a fire if you do not intend to use it ie Sunday. This

will allow all the wood in fire to burn up, leaving little or no wood chunks to be removed.

x When extinguishing the fire, drown the fire with water. Make sure all embers, coals and sticks are wet. Move rocks, there may be hidden burning embers underneath. Stir the remains, add more water, and stir again. Fold the sod back into place and pat down.

x Feel all materials removed from the fire with your bare hand. Make sure that no roots are burning. Do not bury coals – they can smolder and break out. Any wood that is partially burned is to be first extinguished, and then taken away from the event site for disposal. Extra wood that was not used is to be sacked away from the fire pit area.

x Straw is never to be stacked or piled near a fire pit. There are some events that we may rope off the pit area for the safety of spectators.

Parental/Guardian Responsibilities – It is every parent‟s responsibility to supervise their own children at all times unless other arrangements are made with another responsible person in advance. Children cannot be left alone anywhere without proper supervision. Each parent is responsible for their child‟s actions at all times anywhere within the reenacting site including the restrooms. Parents are responsible for any damages incurred by their children whether to another reenactors property or to the host facility. Children are not to have access to matches, candles, lanterns, or fuel at any time or without parental supervision.

4th Texas Addendum to M-LACWS Manual

2009 Roles of the 4th Texas Officers Captain: The Captain was and is the man that commands the company. He is directly responsible for the safety and care of the men in the ranks as well as leading them on the field. 1st and 2nd Lieutenants: These were the junior officers of the company. They were heavily involved in skirmish drill and positioned themselves as file closers when the company was in line of battle. This position is generally left unfilled in the 4th Texas but a Lieutenant may be designated depending on the Captain‟s wishes.

1st Sergeant: The 1st Sergeant is the senior enlisted man in the company. In the absence of the captain, he has charge of the camp and takes command of the company during battle. The 1st Sergeant is also ensures that the captain‟s wishes are carried out. Sergeant(s): The role of the Sergeant on the field is to serve as a guide for the company to dress on. Sergeants are also able to command platoons at the Captain‟s discretion. Corporal(s): A corporal is charged with keeping soldiers in line dressed, leading small fatigue details as well as ensuring that the individual soldiers are proficient in drill. Corporals also do what they can to ensure the men‟s welfare. Clerk: The Clerk was an enlisted soldier, usually a Private or Corporal, who was selected by the Captain to handle the paperwork required in running a company. His job was generally performed only in garrison or static camps. During active campaigning, the 1st Sergeant was charged with recording information and passing it to the clerk upon the company‟s return to a fixed camp. In the current 4th, the clerk is also charged with passing information from the command staff to the men in the ranks. History of the 4th Texas Company E The Lone Star Guards were a militia company that had been founded before the war began in Waco Texas. When the Confederate government called for Texas to supply men, the company was mustered in as Company E of the 4th Texas Infantry commanded by Colonel Hood. Clad in their gray frock coats and captured federal trousers and hats, they began their trek to Virginia in October of 1861. The first part of the war was quiet for the men of Company E, and they went into camp near Dumfries for the winter. It was here that the 4th Texas received their first battle flag, a gift from Fannie and Louise Wigfall. The 4th came out of winter camp in March of 1862. After several brief skirmishes, the men of the 4th faced their first real test just east of Richmond at Gaines Mill. After several failed assaults, the 4th was ordered to charge Turkey Hill. The 4th immediately came under artillery fire, and they splashed across the creek and drove the Union soldiers from their position, capturing 14 of the enemy

cannons. This engagement was the first recorded use of the “rebel yell”, and was the event that made the Texas Brigade famous throughout the army. The 4th was equally successful at 2nd Manassas and Antietam, and went into winter camp outside Winchester in October of 1862. They spent the winter drilling and pulling picket duty on the Rappahannock River, and playing a minor role in the Battle of Fredericksburg that December. Due to delayed orders, the 4th missed the battle of Chancellorsville, but in late June, the 4th crossed the Potomac to begin their march towards what would eventually become Gettysburg. On July 2nd, the 4th found itself coming into the battle after a long hot march, and were quickly pushed into the fighting at Little Round Top. The men were so worn out that they were unable to capture the hill, and saw no more fighting during the rest of the battle. September marked a major change for the men of the 4th. The regiment was moved from the Army of Northern Virginia to the Army of Tennessee in order to reinforce General Johnston‟s forces. On the 19th, the 4th moved into action at Chickamauga, and ended up making a charge upon a fortified position, and succeeded in capturing several more pieces of artillery. The next day, the 4th withdrew. The regiment would go on to participate in the Battle of Knoxville that November, and would return to the Army of Northern Virginia in April of 1864. The regiment was put in a position off of the Orange Plank Road in the Virginia and was ordered to take the Widow Tapp farm. As the men of the 4th advanced, General Lee stood up in his saddle and shouted, “Texans always move them”. He attempted to lead the 4th in their attack, but the men forced him to remain in the rear. The 4th eventually withdrew, leaving half of their men on the field. The 4th went on to fight in several small battles in the coming days, as well as man the trenches of Petersburg. After suffering through another winter encampment, the 4th Texas surrendered at Appomattox with less than 90 men remaining in the ranks. Recommended Reading A Texan in Search of a Fight – John C. West Chaplin Davis and Hood‟s Texas Brigade – Chaplin Davis Gaines Mill to Appomattox – Waco & McLennan County in Hood‟s Texas Brigade – Harold B. Simpson Rags and Hope - Val C. Giles Hood‟s Texas Brigade – J.B. Polley Hood‟s Texas Brigade: Lee‟s Grenadier Guard – Harold Simpson Hood‟s Texas Brigade in Poetry and Song – Harold Simpson

Interrupted Lives – Hood‟s Texas Brigade (novel) - Bob Cheney Texas & Florida – Confederate Military History – Clement A. Evans Lone Star Nation – How a Ragged Army of Volunteers Won the Battle for Texas Independence and Changed America – H. W. Brands Texas Boys in Gray – James Boswell Battle Flags of Texans in the Confederacy - Alan K. Sumrall 4th Texas/16th Michigan Equipment Checklist As you begin to acquire your impression, have an elected officer of the unit initial the space next to the item. Remember that the unit has loaner gear available, but the prospective member should strive to obtain the required items within two years. Each item should be purchased from a designated approved vendor. Required ____ Hat ____ Frock Coat ____ Shirt ____ Trousers ____ Socks ____ Shoes ____ Belt with Belt Plate if applicable ____ Cap Box ____ Bayonet Scabbard

____ Cartridge Box ____ Cartridge Box Strap ____ Haversack ____ Canteen ____ Firearm ____ Bayonet ____ Blanket ____ Ground Cloth ____ Mess Gear

Strongly Suggested ____ Richmond Depot Type II Jacket ____ Drawers

____ Vest ____ Overcoat ____ Shelter Half ____ Knapsack ____ 16th Michigan Impression (Consult Chris Suppelsa for details)

UNIFORM & EQUIPMENT STANDARDS 4th TEXAS/16th MICHIGAN REENACTING ORGANIZATION

Member of the Multi-Lakes Association for Civil War Studies. Introduction The 4th Texas/16th Michigan reenacting group is an organization dedicated to the preservation and portrayal of the American Civil War. The unit, with the support of its membership, is dedicated to maintaining high standards in all of its activities. Additionally, we strive to maintain a high level of authenticity and accuracy during our portrayal of the original 4th Texas/16th Michigan. Although the company the unit portrays may vary from event to event, the main focus of our organization is to portray the 4th Texas Infantry, Company E, Army of Northern Virginia around July of 1863 and the 16th Michigan Infantry, Company B, Army of the Potomac around July of 1863. Members are highly encouraged to supplement their impressions so that early and late war variances in uniforms and equipment may be portrayed accurately as well. Finally, although our guiding impression are the two units mentioned above, the members of the 4th Texas/16th Michigan reenacting organization shall modify their impressions to conform to the scenario or impression being portrayed at that time. With that said, it should be noted that when attending events that are not event/impression specific, the 4th Texas/16th Michigan reenacting organization will adopt a campaign/bivouac impression. Found throughout the following pages is a comprehensive guide that will inform unit members, old and new, as to what the units standards are on virtually every item of clothing and piece of equipment you will need to complete your impression. Also included whenever possible are illustrations from the books „Echoes of Glory: Arms and Equipment of the Confederacy‟ and „Echoes of Glory: Arms and Equipment of the Union‟ (Editors of Time-Life Books, Alexandria VA, 1991) in an attempt to provide visual examples of the clothing or equipment indicated. These illustration references in the „Echoes of Glory‟ are only included as visual references and are not the sole source of documentation for said items

recommended or deemed appropriate by the 4th Texas/16th Michigan, or the scenario portrayed. The two books and their companion volume (an illustrated atlas of the Civil War) can be obtained at or ordered through most bookstores. The 4th Texas/16th Michigan living history organization also recognizes that this list of uniform and equipment standards is a living and breathing document. These standards are meant as a guideline for our organization and when followed, will provide our members with the information to outfit themselves with an authentic, basic impression generic to the 4th Texas/16th Michigan. As new original artifacts are uncovered, research is advanced, or vendor products are deemed appropriate or inappropriate for use, the uniform and equipment standards may be updated. All items actually carried in the field as listed below or otherwise are subject to review for correctness. It is intended that the members of this organization portray and display to the best of their ability the proper look, lifestyle, and attitude of the soldiers we represent. With these standards as your guide, this organization welcomes you and hopes you will join us in preserving and recreating our history, educating the general public about the civil war, and honoring the memories of those brave men, North and South, who came before us. Sincerely, The 4th Texas Company E/16th Michigan Company B Reenacting Organization. CONFEDERATE

4TH TEXAS, CO. E STANDARDS. 1.0 UNIFORM GENERAL NOTES: All uniforms should be appropriately sewn, made of proper materials, and be constructed in the correct “cut”. Proper stitching is encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. This applies for uniform jackets, frocks, trousers, vests, overcoats, shirts, drawers, suspenders, and stockings. Civil War uniforms were provided in a limited number of sizes when issued from depots, so members are strongly encouraged to stick to regulation sizes. Also, Confederate soldiers scrounged clothing from whatever source they could find to replace lost or worn out clothing and were known for wearing garments originally

worn from home or shipped to them by mail from relatives, so except for documented cases, in most instances this aspect should be reflected in your impression. Therefore, especially when portraying an enlisted man, avoid the “cookie-cutter soldier” appearance provided by a tailored uniform. Also, do not be afraid to cuff, blouse (except on formal occasions such as parade, inspection, or guard duty), or wear “high water” trousers as soldiers often did this in an attempt to make their clothing fit, as the only alternative was to wear the undersized clothing or try to trade amongst their fellow soldiers until, if possible, they found the right size. If the issue size or scrounged clothing does not fit you perfectly, then it is probably correct. This is important! Another important, often over-represented feature of Confederate impressions is the inclusion of captured Union clothing and equipment. Although the stripping and rifling of the dead for clothing and equipment certainly did occur on a relatively rare basis, members are strongly discouraged from constantly wearing “foraged” Union items. Members are strongly encouraged to develop a total “Confederate” impression. The inclusion of Federal clothing and equipment in an impression or scenario shall only occur when it is historically accurate, appropriate, or plausible for the impression or scenario that the unit is portraying at that time.

1.1 HEADGEAR. A. Forage Cap There are two styles of forage caps. For purpose here, we will delineate them “Type 1” and “Type 2”. Of the two basic forage cap styles, preference should be given to the Type 1 forage cap, because the Type 1 was more predominate than the Type 2. The Type 1 style has a crescent shaped with a slightly slanting visor while the Type 2 caps have a rectangular visor that usually lays flat. The sides of the brim shall not be turned downward in the style of modern baseball caps. Forage caps shall be made of a plain-weave wool or wool jean material with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps shall be painted leather or painted oilcloth. Buttons shall be small type (Script I, State, U.S. Eagle, or Solid Brass are acceptable). Cap liners shall be brown or black polished cotton or another period material and the cap shall have a leather or painted cloth sweatband. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. TRIM & INSIGNIA: Members are discouraged from adding brass ornamentation to their headgear (i.e. bugles, harps, etc). The wearing of brass regimental numbers and company letters is allowed, but is discouraged unless the scenario calls for it (i.e. 4th Texas, Winter of 61‟ to mid/late 62‟). It is preferred that headgear be plain with no ornamentation of any kind. [EOG/CS pages 164-165]

B. Kepis Kepis shall be made of a plain-weave wool, wool-jean, or cotton-jean material with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps shall be of painted leather or painted oilcloth. Buttons shall be small type (Script I, State, U.S. Eagle, or Solid Brass are acceptable). Cap liners shall be brown or black polished cotton or another period material and the cap shall have a leather or painted cloth sweatband. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. The sides of the brim shall not be turned downward in the style of modern baseball caps. Only officers shall wear kepis ornamented with gold braid. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/CS pages 156, 162-163] C. U.S. Army Hats/ “Kossuth Hats” Use of the U.S. army regulation hat (a.k.a. “Hardee Hat”; note that this is a non-period term) is permitted as Confederate manufactures made their own copies of this style of hat, although members are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear. U.S. army style hats shall be black in color and made of medium-weight felt, with a crown 5 ¾ inches high and a brim 3 to 3 1/4 inches wide. U.S. army style hats shall have two lines of stitching as an edge binding and a 3/8th inch to 5/16th inch wide ribbon hat-band knotted on the left side. The liner shall include a black or maroon leather sweatband and glazed paper crown backing. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/US page 120] D. Civilian Hats Period-style civilian hats are permitted and all members are highly encouraged to obtain one. Civilian hats shall be devoid of hat cords. Civilian hats shall have a sewn edge binding, a silk hat ribbon, and a sweatband of leather or cotton duck. Civilian hats shall be made of fine wool felt and shall not include metal-trimmed vents or exhibit a “frizzy” appearance. “Steamed fedoras”, derbies, and shapeless hat blanks are forbidden. Acceptable colors are medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, and black. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/CS pages 157, 166-169] E. Other Headgear Mechanic hats, Mexican war hats, and painted oilcloth hats constructed of proper materials are allowed, although members are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear. Although documentation supporting the wearing of straw hats exists and is allowed, members are strongly discouraged from wearing a straw hat exclusively and are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear.

Havelocks are not allowed unless documentation supports their use in a given scenario. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. F. Headgear for Commissioned Officers Headgear for officers is at the discretion of the officer and shall be suitable for the scenario and portrayal. Acceptable headgear includes: forage caps, kepis‟, civilian headgear, private purchased headgear, and U.S. headgear. Hats may be worn with or without embroidered branch insignia. Dress hats and civilian hats may be worn with or without hat cords. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. [EOG/CS pages 160-161 (kepis‟), pages 164-165 (forage caps), pages 157, 166-169 (civilian hats), EOG/US pages 114-115, 118-123 (U.S. headgear)] G. Camp Wear Soft “smoking caps” are acceptable when soldiers are off-duty. All “smoking caps”/camp wear must be of a period-correct material and be constructed in a proper, documented fashion. [EOG/CS page 159, 170-171]

1.2 UNIFORM COATS AND JACKETS Note: The nomenclature generally used to describe a jacket, such as Richmond Depot I, II, III, or Type I, II, III are modern terms and incorrect, but to facilitate a better understanding and idea of the jacket described, the classifications Type I, II, and III will be used here. A. Type I Jacket The Type I jacket was an early war jacket and was produced from late 61‟ to late 62‟. The Type I jacket had a six-piece body, two-piece sleeve, and nine-button front that characterized later shell jackets, while also displaying a set of epaulets on the shoulders and belt loops on the waist. What distinguished the Type I jacket from those that followed was the colorful piping and trim that usually adorned the jacket. Most of the Type I jackets were made of wool-jean or cadet gray wool fabrics, and lined with osnaburg, a coarse cotton cloth that lined the insides of most enlisted men‟s jackets throughout the war. Unit members are urged NOT to purchase a Type I jacket as research has shown that the 4th Texas, Co. E was outfitted with frock coats during the early war period. If a member wishes to purchase or make a Type I jacket, we urge that he not do so until after their 63‟ impression and correct 4th Texas Co. E early war impressions are completed. [EOG/CS page 134]

B. Type II Jacket The Type II jacket is the style STRONGLY recommended for purchase by the unit. The Type II jacket maintained the six-piece body, two-piece sleeves, nine-button front, plain cuffs, epaulets and belt loops, but lacked the piping and trim of the Type I jacket. Type II jackets were probably produced from mid 62‟ until 64‟ when the Type III jacket came into prominence. Type II jackets purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn out of wool-jean material, and be constructed in the correct cut listed above (some original Type II jackets have been observed to be missing either the set of epaulets or the set of belt loops while retaining the other set which suggests a possible transitional period into the production of Type III jackets, so the purchase or production of a Type II jacket with epaulets and no belt loops or belt loops and no epaulets is okay). Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Type II jackets shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, State, or U.S. Eagle buttons. Jackets shall be lined with osnaburg, cotton flannel, or civilian shirt material (See Standards on Civilian Shirt Material) with osnaburg being the preferred lining. [EOG/CS page 135] C. Type III Jacket The Type III jacket was produced from late 63‟ to the end of the war. The Type III jacket maintained the standard construction of the Type II jacket, but was distinguished from the Type II by the absence of epaulets and belt loops. One major contrast of the Type III jackets compared to the Type I and II‟s was the material used to construct the Type III jackets. Nearly all-surviving original Type III jackets are made exclusively of English Blue or English Gray kersey wool cloth. Research and original documents have confirmed that large quantities of bulk woolen cloth was bought by Confederate purchasing agents in England, then shipped through the blockade, and distributed to Southern manufacturing centers where it was constructed into Type III jackets and trousers. In obedience to these facts, all Type III jackets purchased or made by members must be constructed out of an English Blue or English Gray wool kersey cloth. Jackets must be appropriately sewn and be constructed in the correct cut (six-piece body, two-piece sleeves, nine-button front, plain cuffs). Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Type III jackets shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, State, or U.S. Eagle buttons. Jackets shall be lined with osnaburg, cotton flannel, or civilian shirt material (See Standards for Civilian Shirt Material) with osnaburg being the preferred lining. [EOG/CS pages 136-137] D. Frock Coat Note: The frock coat is an important item of the 4th Texas early war impression as original documents and evidence show that the 4th Texas was outfitted with frocks at the beginning of the war. Also, frock coats can be used for any period of

the war, East or West, and go a long way toward completing your impressions. All members are strongly encouraged to obtain a frock coat. A popular and functional style of coat in day-to-day wear before the war, the frock coat was quickly pressed into service to clothe Confederate troops. Frock coats are longer style garments and are the precursor to the shell jacket. The frock coat displays many of the same characteristics of the shell jacket such as the two-piece sleeves and nine-button front. The frock coat differs from a shell jacket in that it has a “skirt” attached at the bottom edge of the main body that gives it the characterization of a coat. All frock coats purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn, made of wool-jean material and be constructed in the correct cut of a frock coat. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand-sewn buttonholes. Frock coats may have either straight-cut or “balloon” style sleeves, and all sleeves must be lined in either osnaburg or white muslin. Lining the rest of the coat is at the discretion of the wearer as many were made without linings or the lining was cut out for personal comfort. Frock coats shall be single breasted (commissioned officers may wear double-breasted frocks) and all frocks should contain some degree of quilted padding in the chest, giving the frock a “pigeon-breasted” look that was the popular style. All frock coat skirts shall be cut squarely across the bottom front, and the collar at the neck of the coat shall not be taller than two inches. Frock coats shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, U.S. “Eagle”, wood, or appropriate civilian coat buttons. Frock coasts shall not display piping or any other attachments unless otherwise deemed appropriate for the impression or scenario. [EOG/CS pages 130-131] E. Other Jackets and Coats Three other jackets that may have come into contact with the 4th Texas late in the war include the loose, unfitted, sack coat, the Peter Tait jacket, and Georgia Depot jackets. The sack coat is a loose, unfitted, four-button, middle length coat based on a popular civilian pattern that was known for its comfort made from wool-jean material. The Peter Tait jacket was an English imported jacket made by Peter Tait of Limerick, Ireland. A five-piece body, eight-button front, linen lining, and epaulets characterize this jacket, while some also displayed blue piping around the epaulets and collar. All of the Tait jackets were made from the same English Blue or Gray wool kersey material that Type III jackets were made of. Finally, Georgia Depot jackets were shell jackets made from wool-jean material displaying five or six button fronts. This information is included because the 4th Texas may have encountered these jackets, but there is as of yet no direct evidence. Members are strongly discouraged from purchasing or making these jackets until their 63‟ and early war impressions are complete and further research is done on this topic. [EOG/CS (sack coat) page 138, (Peter Tait jacket) page 139, (Georgia Depot jackets) pages 142-143]

1.3 SHIRTS A. Depot Issue, State Issue, and Import Shirts All fabrics must be woven of 100% natural wool or fiber (cotton, linen, muslin, flannel, wool). All shirts purchased or made by members shall be square cut or fitted around the shoulders though square cut is preferred as the fitted style, which originated in France, only came into popularity amongst those who could afford it in the 1850‟s. Shirts shall preferably have a placket front secured by one or more buttons. Shirts must have wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, India rubber, or paperbacked tin buttons. Antique or properly made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor List. [EOG/CS pages 154-155] B. Civilian and Industry Manufactured Shirts All fabrics must be woven of 100% natural fiber (cotton, linen, muslin, flannel, wool). Only period correct prints (paisley prints, no matter how historically correct, is strongly discouraged) may be worn. All shirts purchased or made by members shall be square cut or fitted around the shoulder though square cut is definitely preferred for civilian shirts. Unless they are pleated front shirts, all other shirts are preferred to have a placket front secured by one or more buttons. Collar attachments on the shirt are also allowed. Shirts must have wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, India rubber, or paperbacked tin buttons. Antique or properly made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor List. [EOG/CS pages 154-155]

1.4 TROUSERS Note: The proper waistline of the period was the naval, just under the lower ribs. Trousers should not be worn like modern pants with the waistband on top of the hip-bones, but at their proper height. A. Depot, State, and Contract Issue Trousers Depot, state, and contract issue trousers were the Confederate government and individual states attempt to meet the constant clothing demands of their men in uniform. Depot, state, or contract trousers purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn, made of wool kersey, wool-jean, cotton-jean, cotton drill, cord-du-roy, satinette, or cassimere material, and be constructed in a period correct style. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All trousers shall have a fly front construction, and a straight-edged waistband or a straight-edged waistband that is „bent‟ up and rises steadily in the back. Trousers may have a vent in the back and have eyelets for tying it closed or a strap and buckle arrangement. Trousers shall have „mule ear‟ or side-seam pockets, straight outseams, and may have watch-pockets and be unlined,

partially lined, or fully lined. If lined, the lining shall be cotton drill, cotton muslin, cotton flannel, or osnaburg. Piping or trim worn on the seams of trousers is optional. All trousers shall have button arrangements for braces either mounted to the outside or inside of the waistband. Buttons on trousers may be japanned tin, bone, wood, hard rubber, gutta percha, paperbacked tin, or painted metal with a stippled edge. [EOG/CS pages 152-153] B. Civilian Trousers Civilian trousers sent from home, privately purchased, or scavenged from other sources were common in the ranks of Confederate armies. Members are encouraged to make or purchase a pair of civilian trousers. Civilian trousers shall be appropriately sewn. Civilian trousers shall be constructed in a period correct style and may be made of wool broadcloth, wool kersey, wool-jean, cotton-jean, cotton drill, linen, cord-du-roy, satinette, or cassimere material. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All trousers shall have a fly front construction and either a straight-edged waistband or a straight-edged waistband that is „bent‟ up and rises steadily in the back. Trousers may have a vent in the back and have eyelets for tying the vent closed or utilize a strap and buckle arrangement. Trousers shall have „mule ear‟ or side-seam pockets, straight, slightly tapered, or shaped outseams, and may have watch-pockets, and be unlined, partially lined, or fully lined. If lined, the lining shall be of cotton drill, cotton muslin, cotton flannel, or osnaburg. All trousers shall have button arrangements for braces either mounted to the outside or inside of the waistband. Buttons on trousers can be japanned tin, bone, wood, hard rubber, gutta percha, paperbacked tin, or painted metal with a stippled edge. [EOG/CS pages 152-153]

1.5 SUSPENDERS/BRACES A. Civilian Suspenders purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Any type of period civilian model: all-cloth “poor boys”, or adjustable braces with tin, brass, or japanned steel buckles are allowed. Buckles of nickel-plated metal and stainless steel are not allowed. Canvas, drill, tapestry, ticking, embroidered, crocheted, or woven suspenders are acceptable. Leather ends on suspenders must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Period correct elastic suspenders are allowed if properly constructed.

1.6 VESTS/WAISTCOATS A. Military/Civilian

Vests were not a regular army-issue item, but were found in abundance among the men who filled the ranks of the Confederate armies. Therefore, vests are allowed, but if purchased or made by members, they must be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Because vests are/were not a required item, this is one of the few means by which a man could/can express his individuality in dress. Materials used in the constriction of vests may vary though woolen material, cotton material, wool-cotton blends, cord-du-roys, satinette‟s, and cassimere material are preferred. Muslin, linen, and polished cotton are typical materials used in construction of the back panel and tightening structures located on the back of the garment. Vests may be either single or double-breasted, have shawled, lapelled, or short military collars (NOTE: short military collars are not common on civilian vests). All vests should be cut squarely across the bottom in front, displaying no “points” as seen on later vests. Any buckles on the tightening structure should be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Buttons on vests should be either cloth covered buttons, glass, silk thread buttons, hard rubber, gutta percha, japanned metal, stippled edge metal, bone, or wood buttons. [EOG/CS pages 106, 112-113]

1.7 DRAWERS All drawers purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is strongly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Drawers should be made of plain cotton or cotton flannel material. Ties at the cuffs are at the owners‟ discretion. Drawers may have bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, or paperbacked tin buttons. (NOTE: In warm weather, soldiers often cut the legs off their drawers to make a version of modern shorts) [EOG/CS page 154]

1.8 STOCKINGS/SOCKS Note: The vast majority of large, general sutlers do not sell proper socks. All stockings and socks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is strongly encouraged. Modern athletic socks should not be worn. Period machine knit and hand-knit socks are preferred. Off-white, gray, grayish blue, blue, brown, and mixtures of these colors are strongly recommended. [EOG/CS page 175]

1.9 SHOES Note: Gaiters and modern shoes are not allowed in ranks. Boots are highly discouraged. Blousing your trousers is not allowed during formal occasions.

All shoes, also known as a “Bootee” or “Jefferson Bootee”, purchased by members shall be constructed of period correct materials. All Booties should have a slightly squared toe and have pegged or stitched soles with black leather laces to secure the shoe to the foot. The smooth side of the leather shall be towards the inside of the shoe. Avoid shoes with a heavy, suede-like nap. While metal heel plates were not an issue item, they are recommended in order to prolong the life of reproduction shoes. Toe plates and hobnails are acceptable as long as they are of a period pattern. [EOG/CS pages 174-175]

1.10 OVERCOATS Note: In 1863 a general order was given to dye all captured federal overcoats a dark color because pickets were being mistakenly shot. Therefore, a dark colored overcoat might serve better than using a federal overcoat. Overcoats, also known as “greatcoats” are a welcome addition to your impression although overcoats should only be utilized when appropriate for the scenario or impression being portrayed. From late April through early to mid-September, due to a lack of need for them and a desire to cut down on weight carried during the spring and summer campaign season, most overcoats were generally placed in storage or even tossed away by their owners. Due to the wide variety of styles, both civilian and military, one specific style is not preferred over another although cavalry greatcoats are not acceptable in ranks. Overcoats purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All overcoats shall be made of wool or wool-jean material. Overcoats may be lined or unlined. If lined, the preferred lining materials are canton flannel, osnaburg, cotton muslin, or civilian shirt material (See Civilian Shirt Material Standards). Overcoats shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, U.S. “Eagle”, cloth covered, or wood buttons. State buttons are allowed but discouraged. [EOG/CS pages 150-151]

1.11 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS A. Eyewear If corrective lenses are required, contact lenses are preferred. If glasses are worn, they shall be period correct. Nose-rest pads on eyewear are not allowed. Sunglasses, period or not, are not allowed. No modern eyewear is allowed at any time (except in the most dire of circumstances; Safety First!). B. Chevrons NCO‟s are encouraged to wear chevrons commensurate with their rank. No member of the company shall wear a rank insignia above his official rank unless

so appointed by the company commander. Company NCO chevrons shall be of black worsted wool. Other chevrons as authorized by the battalion shall conform to army regulations relative to material and configuration. All chevrons should be hand sewn to garments. [EOG/CS page 141 (Bottom jacket, chevrons on the sleeves)] C. Insignia for Commissioned Officers Insignia of rank should be worn by commissioned officers unless documentation suggests otherwise for a given scenario or impression. Insignia shall be piping or badges on the collar commensurate with their rank or shoulder straps commensurate with their rank. [EOG/CS page 147 (Collar)] D. Sashes When required and appropriate for the scenario and portrayal, sergeants, principal musicians, and commissioned officers may wear sashes. Sashes for non-commissioned officers shall be red-knitted wool, knotted at both ends, and approximately nine feet in length. Sashes for commissioned officers may be silk netting or knitted wool and shall be scarlet (maroon) in color, knotted at both ends, and approximately nine feet in length. Other ranks shall not wear sashes. [EOG/CS Officers sash page 111: NCO sash page 128]

2.0 BLANKETS, WATERPROOFS, AND TENTAGE GENERAL NOTES: Sleeping bags, air and/or foam mattresses, and any other similar modern amenities are NOT allowed at any time.

2.1 BLANKETS A. Military Issue Both governments had problems keeping up with the demand for blankets. Between their own woolen mill products, contractors, foreign imports, and old 1812 and Mexican War surplus, there was a wide variety of sizes and colors in military issue blankets. All blankets purchased by members shall be constructed of period materials. Blankets shall be made of wool or wool-cotton blends. Confederate and U.S. blankets may be used. Colors may vary between light brown with dark stripes, brown, light brown, gray, gray with dark stripes, blue, blue with dark stripes, and white with dark stripes (Mexican war vintage). Federal blankets may have a U.S. marking stitched into them with yarn or stenciled on them with paint. In the case of U.S. blankets, they should at least have the manufacturer‟s markings on them as was required by the government in mid 62‟. [EOG/CS page 203: EOG/US page 214]

B. Civilian Blankets Among Confederate troops, civilian blankets sent from home, blankets purchased by individual soldiers, or scavenged blankets from whatever source they could find played an important role in protecting the troops from the elements. All civilian blankets purchased by members shall be constructed of period correct materials. Browns, light browns, blues, grays, reds, oranges, greens, checkered color blankets, and blankets of these colors with or without stripe combinations are all acceptable. All blankets shall be made of wool or wool-cotton blends. [EOG/CS page 203] C. Miscellaneous Sleeping Covers Confederate troops often utilized whatever they could acquire. Quilts, pieces of carpet, rugs, and coverlets are all applicable to the Confederate impression depending upon the scenario. If any of these coverings are utilized, they must be constructed of period materials in a period fashion.

2.2 OILCLOTHES, PAINTED BLANKETS, GUM BLANKETS, AND PONCHOS A. Oilcloths and Painted Blankets Oilcloths and painted blankets purchased or made by members shall be constructed of period materials. Cotton drill and linen duck fabrics soaked in a linseed oil mixture with black pigment are acceptable. All oilcloth‟s/painted blankets shall have 3/8 inch diameter brass reinforced grommets and should be able to be tied around the owners shoulders and used as a poncho if need be. Oilcloths and painted blankets are preferred over federal rubberized gum blankets and ponchos as the latter two were Union issue items, not Confederate. [EOG/US page 215] B. Gum Blankets and Poncho‟s The difference between gum blankets and ponchos is that ponchos have a slit in the middle for your head to fit through. Gum blankets and ponchos purchased by members shall be constructed of period materials in a period fashion. Gum blankets and ponchos should be made of a rubber coated cotton drill, linen duck, or muslin material with an uneven pattern of reinforced 3/8-inch diameter brass grommets. The grommet spacing is used to ensure that the gum blanket can be tied around the owners shoulders and used as a poncho if need be. [EOG/US page 215]

2.3 TENTAGE Note: When in the field, the 4th Texas Co.E/16th Michigan Co. B reenacting organization shall conform their impression to fit the scenario being portrayed. When portraying a campaign or bivouac impression, a company fly and or “dog tent” (two shelter halves buttoned together) are the only pieces of canvas allowed. Wedge tents, otherwise known as “A-frames” or anything larger are prohibited unless dictated otherwise by the scenario or impression portrayed. A. Shelter Halves Shelter halves purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes and/or grommet holes. Shelter halves shall not have brass grommets. Shelter halves should have at the very least, 8 3/8 inch, hand sewn grommet holes: two at each corner with either hemp, manila, or sisal line rope looped through the grommet holes and knotted off at each end so it will not pull through. Shelter halves shall be made of cotton sailcloth, linen duck, or cotton drill material. Early war federal shelter halves should be a three panel model with bone buttons. Late war federal shelter halves should be a two panel model preferably with paper backed tin or metal buttons. Period-style maker-marks on each shelter half is highly encouraged. Acceptable maker marks are J.T.Martin, Fox & Polhemus, Joseph Lee, H.S.McComb, and B.Hansell. [EOG/US page 214] B. Tent Accoutrements Wooden tent stakes are highly encouraged, although iron stakes are allowed (remember, you will have to carry the extra weight!!). Shelter tent poles (if used at all) should be wooden tree limbs with the bark left on. Finished timber used for tent poles is forbidden. An alternative to tree branches is muskets with fixed bayonets used as upright tent supports. Hemp rope is preferred for use with tentage, although manila or sisal line rope and rawhide are acceptable substitutes.

3.0 ACCOUTREMENTS AND CAMP EQUIPMENT GENERAL NOTES: “Accoutrements” include the cartridge box and sling, waist-belt, belt plate, cap box, bayonet scabbard, and applicable side-arm accoutrements. “Camp Equipment” includes the haversack, canteen, and knapsack. All “accoutrements” and applicable “camp equipment” shall be worn at the proper height. The waist-belt should be worn about the center of the stomach (over the naval). Haversack and canteen straps shall be the proper length, so that the top of the haversack and canteen are approximately equal with the elbow. If

necessary, straps shall be shortened for the haversack and canteen (cut and shortened or cut and sewn shorter).

3.1 HAVERSACK Note: Haversacks were intended to carry food, not personal items. Items in the haversack should be carried in “poke sacks” (cotton bags). Also, tin-wear should be hitched to the outside of the haversack only when there is insufficient room for mess gear within the haversack (nobody wants to hear you clank all over the place or get their hands crushed and bruised during maneuvers!) A. Confederate Haversacks Confederate haversacks encompassed a wide variety of sizes, shapes, materials, and colors. All haversacks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Cotton drill, muslin, linen, ticking, painted canvas, and oilcloth are all acceptable material for haversacks. Tapestry haversacks are discouraged. Wood, bone, paper backed tin, japanned tin, hard rubber, and stamped metal buttons are all acceptable. All buckles shall be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Any leather straps must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. [EOG/CS page 201] B. Commissioned Officer Haversack Commissioned officers may use either a commissioned officer‟s haversack or any other haversack that meets the requirements specified above for Confederate haversacks. All commissioned officer‟s haversacks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Officer‟s haversacks shall be either patent or dyed leather, painted canvas, or oilcloth with adjustable straps. All buckles shall be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. All leather must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. {EOG/CS page 200]

3.2 CANTEEN A. Confederate Canteens Due to the Confederacy‟s lack of stamping dies for the federal type sphere canteen, several substitutes and old models were pressed into service such as

militia type tin drum canteens, U.S. Army Mexican War issue wooden canteens (most of them based on a pattern by F.J.Gardner), and various rugged glass flasks, and compartment canteens which were designed to filter stagnant water. Any of these types of canteens purchased by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. Any canteen covers shall be gray or brown colored and preferably be made of wool-jean, cotton-jean, or satinette material. Canvas, cotton drill, linen, and ticking are preferred for canteen straps with leather being a last choice (leather was needed elsewhere for shoes, saddles, accoutrements, etc…). Cork, corncob‟s, and carved wood are acceptable as stoppers for canteens. String, twine, and leather are highly preferred in lieu of metal chains to connect stoppers to canteens (metal was needed elsewhere). [EOG/CS pages 208-211]

3.3 CARTRIDGE BOX AND SIDE-ARM ACCOUTREMENTS A. Cartridge Box All cartridge boxes purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. All cartridge boxes shall be made of either leather or painted cloth. Cartridge boxes shall be hand sewn and preferably have hand-forged buckles. Buckles shall be made of tin, japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Cartridge boxes shall have brass or lead stud fasteners and be of either .58 caliber or .69 caliber size. Cartridge boxes shall have two tin liners or a single large tin liner per Confederate regulations. Cartridge boxes may or may not have implement pouches on the outside of the box and all cartridge boxes shall have an inner flap. Cartridge boxes may have either one or two straps on the backside for suspension purposes and may be suspended by either a belt or a strap. Cartridge box straps shall be made of leather, painted cloth, canvas, or ticking material. Cartridge boxes may or may not display a proper manufacturer‟s mark. [EOG/CS pages 185, 192-199] B. Pistol Holster Pistol holsters shall be worn only by commissioned officers who elect to carry side-arms. Pistol holsters purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. Pistol holsters shall be hand-sewn and may be fastened closed by either a brass or lead stud, a leather keeper, or by a buckle enclosure. Pistol holsters shall be made of leather and have one or two straps on the back side for suspension purposes. Buckles if used shall be hand-forged and shall be made of tin, japanned steel, or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. [EOG/CS pages 193, 207]

3.4 CAP BOX A. Confederate

All cap boxes purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. All cap boxes shall be made of either leather or painted cloth. Cap boxes shall be hand sewn and have brass or lead studs, or a leather keeper for a closure mechanism. All cap boxes shall have an inner flap and a sheepskin liner. Cone pick loops for carrying a cone pick (“nipple pick”) are optional. Cap boxes may have one or two straps on the backside for suspension purposes or an angled belt loop (like on English imports) for suspension from the cartridge box shoulder strap. Cap boxes may or may not display a proper manufacture‟s mark. [EOG/CS pages 185, 194-199, 206-207]

3.5 WAIST BELT AND BELT PLATE A. Waist Belt All waist belts purchased or made by members shall be made of leather, painted cloth, or canvas material. Minimum width of a waist belt shall be 1-7/8th inches; maximum width shall be 2 inches. If a “keeper” is used, a standing leather loop keeper is preferred though brass keepers are acceptable but strongly discouraged. If a standing leather loop keeper is used, it should be hand-sewn to the belt. [EOG/CS pages 192-199, 206-207] B. Belt Plates, Frames, and Buckles Due to the wide variety of belt plates, frames, buckles, S-hooks, and interlocking hook-and-eye buckles used by Confederate troops, any of these styles are acceptable. Oval and rectangular belt plates shall be either total brass manufactured or have a brass-face with a lead solder filling and either two “puppy-paw” or two “snake-head” hooks. This type of plate may have militia, state emblem, star, C.S., U.S., or federal eagle markings though C.S. markings (especially on oval plates) are highly discouraged. All belt frames must be made from brass or unfinished iron and shall be of the “wishbone” or “Georgia frame” variety. All belt buckles, such as the “roller” buckle, shall be hand-forged and made of japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. S-hook and interlocking hook-and-eye buckles shall be made of brass. [EOG/CS page 184, 190-191, 195-196] C. Commissioned Officer Sword Belt/Buckle All commissioned officers sword belts shall be made of Buff leather, Waxed leather, Grain leather, painted cloth, or embroidered canvas. Sword belts for commissioned officers should be approximately 1-5/8th inches wide. Belt length should be adjustable by means of a brass buckle and should have a leather keeper. Buckle closure may be any of the buckle types listed in the Belt Plate/Frames/Buckle section. Belts should include two brass loops that may

connect the main belt segments as well as the attached straps or the brass loops may be attached by two pieces of leather reinforcing sewn to the belt or brass slip attachments. Belts should include two straps that are looped through and secured by brass rivets, buckles, hand-sewing, or brass slip attachments (if buckles are used here, they should be made of japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel are not allowed). Each strap shall have a brass swivel snap. The belt should have a 1-inch wide adjustable baldric (shoulder strap) with leather keeper and brass closure hook; the baldric may be removed at the officers‟ discretion. Belts may have a U-shaped brass attachment for suspension of the sword. [EOG/CS pages 186-189]

3.6 BAYONET AND SCABBARD

A. Scabbard Acceptable scabbard patterns include the “all-sewn” scabbard, two rivet scabbard, seven rivet scabbard, and two-piece English scabbard and frog, although members are urged to give preference to the “all-sewn” and two rivet variety when purchasing scabbards. “All-sewn”, two rivet, and seven rivet scabbards shall be made of leather or painted cloth while two-piece English scabbards and frogs may only be made of leather. Any buckles on an English scabbard and frog must be made of tin, japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. All scabbards shall be equipped with a brass tip for safety considerations; this tip should be attached to the scabbard body with two to four small brass or copper brads. Gluing on a scabbard tip is strongly discouraged. [EOG/CS page 195, EOG/US page 202] B. Bayonet All bayonets shall be made of carbon steel and shall be correct for the weapon in use. All bayonets shall have a locking ring. Members should remove the “INDIA” stamp from their bayonets with a file and emery cloth. The sharpening of bayonets is expressly prohibited. All members are strongly and highly encouraged to obtain an original bayonet as original‟s are more durable than reproductions.

3.7 KNAPSACK Note: Unless specifically dictated otherwise by the scenario, members are highly encouraged to wear knapsacks (“full marching order”) to all marches, battles, and demonstration where the company is portraying soldiers on campaign. Members may also wear blanket rolls (“mule collars”) in lieu of knapsacks. Knapsacks are not appropriate at dress parade, modern-day parades, and ceremonies.

Although there are sewing differences between early war and late war knapsacks, for a late war knapsack impression, discard the removable wooden frame, and affix a leather disk over the head of the brass stud that connects the shoulder straps and load bearing straps (applicable knapsacks for this include the double bag knapsack). A. Single/Double Bag Knapsack All knapsacks purchased or made by members shall be made of painted coarse linen canvas, painted sailcloth, or painted cotton drill material. All straps on knapsacks shall be of 100% leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Rear closure straps on Double Bag knapsacks may be sewn on or riveted on. All closure buckles shall be japanned, painted black steel, or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Shoulder straps and load-bearing straps may be connected by brass studs or simply sewn together. Inner compartment ties shall be made of leather ties, rawhide ties, or thin canvas strips. Leather and rawhide ties may be sewn on or riveted on. On some knapsacks buttons may also be used to close inner compartments. Appropriate buttons are bone, japanned tin, stippled edge, gutta percha, paper backed tin, or wood buttons. Knapsack hooks on the front support (chest) straps should be made of brass or unfinished iron (members are encouraged to obtain original‟s as they are more durable than reproductions). Knapsacks may contain a removable wooden frame if so desired. “Hardpack” knapsacks are also allowed. All straps and closure buckles must conform to the Single/Double Bag knapsack regulations. [EOG/CS pages 202-205, 207]

4.0 WEAPONS *Prohibitions*

x Two-band rifles, flintlocks, and modern black-powder rifles are NOT allowed in ranks at any time.

x Live ammunition shall never be carried by any member at any event. x Only officers may carry pistols. x Long knives shall not be carried at any time.

GENERAL NOTES: Long-arms other than a .58 caliber Enfield or Springfield will be considered on a case-by-case basis as required by the scenario portrayed. Model 1842 .69 Springfield Smoothbores/Rifled-Muskets may be carried only when appropriate for the scenario. All smoothbores and rifles in the ranks of the company shall have a functioning half cock and shall be capable of bearing the full weight of the musket when supported only by the trigger.

All muskets shall be cleaned after firing. A weapons inspection shall be held prior to each firing demonstration and/or battle reenactment. Unsafe and/or excessively unclean weapons shall not be allowed in ranks due to the safety hazard they represent.

4.1 FIREARMS A. Model 1853 Enfield Rifled-Musket, .58 (.577) Caliber The three-band Enfield is the preferred weapon of choice for members in the unit and is highly recommended for purchase by new members. It is preferred that Enfields be marked “Tower” (instead of “London Armory”). Enfield rifled-muskets shall be properly “defarbed” (top swivel replaced, first two barrel bands replaced, modern markings removed, period inspector‟s stamps added, correct escutcheons, etc.). Members are advised to purchase an „ArmiSport‟ (reproduction manufacturer) rifled-musket because they are more authentic with respect to the musket bands. [EOG/CS pages 36-37 (Top Weapon)] B. Model 1861 Springfield Rifled-Musket, .58 Caliber The Springfield was the most common weapon in the hands of Union troops. Thousands were captured by Confederate soldiers and pressed into service. This weapon should be a secondary choice for use by members. Springfield‟s used by members should be “defarbed” (modern markings removed, period inspector stamps added, etc.). [EOG/US pages 40-41 (Top Weapon)] C. U.S. Model 1842 Musket/Rifled-Musket, .69 Caliber The U.S. Model 1842 musket was the standard infantry firearm of the U.S. Army during the War with Mexico. Retired in 1855, thousands were pressed into service at the start of the War Between the States (when about 10,000 were re-bored as rifles). This weapon is an excellent choice for early war impressions, although members are encouraged to obtain an Enfield first. 1842 Muskets/Rifled-Muskets should be “defarbed” (modern markings removed, period inspector stamps added, front sight brazed, etc.). [EOG/CS pages 28-29 (Musket/Bottom Weapon), EOG/US pages 32-33 (Rifled-Musket/Bottom Weapon)]

4.2 RIFLE STRAPS A. “Slings” Members may choose to equip their weapons with straps. Rifle straps shall be made of russet leather with a cast or sheet-brass hook sewn and riveted to one end or made of canvas with a leather reinforcement sewn to the canvas with two standing leather loop keeper‟s and a cast or sheet-brass hook sewn to one end. Both types of “slings” shall have holes punched through the leather for easy adjustment of the strap. [EOG/CS pages 36-37, 40-45]

4.3 NONCOMMISSIONED OFFICER WEAPONS

A. Sword/Scabbard When required and appropriate for the scenario and portrayal, Sergeants may wear non-commissioned officers swords in addition to carrying their long arms. Due to the wide assortment of swords originally available to NCOs, greater scope in sword selection is allowed. Plain or engraved blades are acceptable. All swords are required to have a scabbard. Noncommissioned officers are not allowed to carry side arms. Other ranks shall not wear noncommissioned officers weapons. A model for a noncommissioned officers sword is the 1840 U.S. noncommissioned officers sword. [EOG/US pages 80-81]

4.4 COMMISSIONED OFFICER WEAPONS A. Sword/Scabbard When on duty, officers shall always carry a sword. Due to the wide assortment of swords originally available to officers, greater scope in sword selection is allowed. Plain or engrave blades are acceptable. All swords are required to have a scabbard. The use of an officers‟ sword knot is at the discretion of the officer. Other ranks shall not wear commissioned officers weapons. A model for a commissioned officers sword is the 1850 U.S. Army foot officers‟ sword with brass guard and leather grip. [EOG/US pages 74-75] B. Side-Arms Use of a side arm by commissioned officers is optional. The choice of the side arm is at the discretion of the officer. Only officers may carry a side arm. One of the most common types of side arm was the .44 caliber, 1860 Colt “Army” revolver. Private purchase pocket pistols of smaller calibers were also popular. [EOG/CS pages 52-53]

4.5 AMMUNITION A. Blank Cartridges/Caps Only FFg or FFFg black powder is acceptable for use in making cartridges. Modern black powder propellants are STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank cartridges must be made of proper paper material and be properly constructed. Taping and stapling cartridges is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank Cartridges should not be carried loose in cartridge boxes; instead they should be properly stored and secured in their cartridge box tin(s). Carrying blank cartridges in your pockets is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank cartridges shall contain no more than 75 grains of black powder for .58 caliber weapons and 90 grains of black powder for .69 caliber weapons. Pistol loads shall contain no more than 40 grains of black powder. Guidelines Created: February, 2003 by John Difatta

Original format and applicable text taken from, Standards of the Columbia Rifles. January 26, 2002. Used with permission. Updated: 4/17/2009 VENDOR LIST FOR THE 4TH TEXAS/16TH MICHIGAN REENACTING ORGANIZATION. The following Vendors or “sutlers” make acceptable reproductions of the items each is listed for. Although other items may be available from a given Vendor, only the items they are listed for are acceptable for use by unit members. The Vendor List includes more than one Vendor for each item listed to facilitate price comparisons and allow members to select Vendors with suitable lead times. Please note that as Vendors change their product line, go out of business, or new Vendors emerge; this Vendor List may be amended. Recruits should consult their Sponsor or an experienced member of the group prior to making purchases, especially purchases from sutlers at events and Vendors not on this list. There are a vast majority of sutlers/Vendors out there that are only in it to make a buck and will sell inferior/farby items with no compunction. Therefore, both out of concern for your pocketbook and to ensure that your impression conforms to the authenticity standards of the 4th Texas/16th Michigan Reenacting Organization, we again plead that recruits consult with their Sponsor or an experienced member of the group prior to making purchases and that members consult this Vendor List when purchasing items. Note to New members and Old members who already own equipment and uniform items: If the uniforms and equipment are considered acceptable by the 4th Texas/16th Michigan Reenacting Organization, they may be “grandfathered” in. Any questionable item(s) may not be used if discretion of the unit disallows it. Members are encouraged to make their own uniforms and equipment with approved patterns and materials. **Note** The contact and address information of Vendors on this list may be updated at any time. If you are unable to access a website or not able to get in touch with a

particular vendor, please notify the author of this list so that you can be helped and so that the list may be updated and the appropriate changes made. Uniform: -Patterns: (military): County Cloth, Heidi Marsh, The Company Tailor (civilian): Past Reflections, James Country Mercantile (JCM carries; Homespun Patterns, Heidi Marsh, and Period Impressions). -Fabric/Material: Tart-Brantly&Benjamin, County Cloth, and Stoney Brook Company. -Tunic&Trouser: (kits): Tart-Brantly&Benjamin, County Cloth, W,W&Company, Richmond Depot. (will assemble kits): Lorna Mitchell -Tunic&Trousers: (assembled: Confederate): W,W&Company, Tart-Brantly&Benjamin, Historic Clothiers, S&S Sutler, Myrtle Avenue Clothiers, Richmond Depot, The Company Tailor, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. (Trousers Only: Confederate): Stoney Brook Company, Ezra Barnhouse Goods, Carter and Jasper, Homespun Wares. (assembled: U.S.): W,W&Company, Historic Clothiers, C.J.Daley Historical Reproductions, Wedeward Sack Coats, Myrtle Avenue Clothiers (Trousers Only: Union): Stoney Brook Company. -Frock Coat: (assembled: Confederate): W,W&Company, Historic Clothiers, S&S Sutler, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Richmond Depot, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. (assembled: U.S.): Historic Clothiers. (Civilian): Corner Clothiers and Stoney Brook Company. -Vest: Corner Clothiers, Morris Clothiers, Richmond Depot, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Carter and Jasper, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. -Overcoat: Historic Clothiers, S&S Sutler, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Eyewear: The Grand Spectacle. -Chevrons: (Confederate): Wooded Hamlet Designs (now a part of Needle&Thread). (U.S.): C.J.Daley Historical Reproductions. -Officer Insignia/Sashes: Historic Clothiers, Stoney Brook Company. -Braces: Chris Graham, Tim Koehn (his products are sold through C.J.Daley, Carter and Jasper‟s, and others.), Corner Clothiers, Homespun Wares, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Buttons: (civilian): John Zaharias. (military): C&D Jarnagin. -Brogans: Mattimore Harness, Robert Land, Missouri Boot&Shoe Co. -Socks: (wool & cotton): Carter and Jasper, S&S Sutlery, Morris Clothiers, Stoney Brook Company, Ezra Barnhouse Goods. -Shirt&Drawers (assembled: Civilian): W,W&Company, C.J.Daley, Historic Clothiers, , Corner Clothiers, Carter and Jasper, Dirty Billy, Homespun Wares, Myrtle Avenue Clothiers, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Ezra Barnhouse Goods, Morris Clothiers, Richmond Depot. (assembled: Federal-Issue Shirt): W,W&Company, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Historic Clothiers, C.J.Daley, Morris Clothiers, Myrtle Avenue Clothiers. (assembled: Confederate-Issue Shirt Kit): W,W& Company. -Cap or Hat: (hat): Clearwater Hat Company, Tim Bender „TP&H Trading Co.‟, Dirty Billy. (forage cap/kepi: Confederate): Greg Starbuck (available through S&S Sutlery), Historic Clothiers, W,W&Company Trans-Mississippi Depot, Richmond

Depot, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. (forage cap/kepi: U.S.): Chris Semanick (available through S&S Sutlery), Greg Starbuck, Dirty Billy, Historic Clothiers, Trans-Mississippi Depot. (sleeping cap/smoking cap): S&S Sutlery, Historic Clothiers. Blankets, Tentage, and Waterproofs: -Blanket: (civilian): Family Heirloom Weaver, Carter and Jasper. (Confederate): County Cloth. (U.S.): County Cloth, Waterside Woolen Mills, EJ Thomas Mercantile. -Shelter Half: W,W&Company, EJ Thomas Mercantile, Haversack Depot, Historic Clothiers, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Gum Blanket/Poncho: C&D Jarnagin,. -Oilcloth: L.D.Haning&Co, Homespun Wares, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. Accoutrements: -Haversack: Haversack Depot, EJ Thomas Mercantile, S&S Sutlery, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Richmond Depot, Traveling Man‟s Emporium. -Canteen: (tin): Village Tinsmith, C&D Jarnagin, Otter Creek Tinware. (wooden): S&S Sutlery (Confederate& U.S.): C&D Jarnagin, S&S Sutlery. (canteen strap: leather): Historic Clothiers, C&D Jarnagin, S&S Sutlery, Trans-Mississippi Depot. (canteen strap: fabric): C&D Jarnagin. (canteen: covers): W,W&Company, S&S Sutlery, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Cartridge Box and Sling: C&D Jarnagin, Historic Clothiers, L.D.Haning&Co., Homespun Wares, EJ Thomas Mercantile, S&S Sutlery, Duvall Leatherwork, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Side-arm Accoutrements: C&D Jarnagin, Dell‟s Leatherworks, Historic Clothiers, Duvall Leatherwork, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Cap Pouch: C&D Jarnagin, Homespun Wares, Historic Clothiers, L.D.Haning&Co., Dell‟s Leatherworks, EJ Thomas Mercantile, S&S Sutlery, Duvall Leatherwork, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Waistbelt and Buckles: C&D Jarnagin, Historic Clothiers, L.D.Haning&Co, EJ Thomas Mercantile, S&S Sutlery, Duvall Leatherwork, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Sword Belt: C&D Jarnagin, Dell‟s Leatherworks, L.D.Haning&Co, Duvall Leatherwork. Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Bayonet Scabbard: C&D Jarnagin, Historic Clothiers, L.D.Haning&Co, Homespun Wares, EJ Thomas Mercantile, S&S Sutlery, Duvall Leatherwork, Trans-Mississippi Depot. -Knapsack: Historic Clothiers, C&D Jarnagin, L.D.Haning&Co., Missouri Boot&Shoe, S&S Sutlery, Trans-Mississippi Depot. Weapons: -Rifles/Muskets with Bayonets (defarbed): John Zimmerman, Lodgewood Mfg, Company Quartermaster. (defarbed parts): Lodgewood Mfg. (Unaltered): Lodgewood Mfg

-Bayonets: Lodgewood Mfg, C&D Jarnagin, Fall Creek Sutlery. -Rifle/Musket Straps: C&D Jarnagin, Historic Clothiers, Dell‟s Leather Works, Trans-Mississippi Depot, Richmond Depot. -Musket Tool&Cleaning Kits (.58&.69 caliber): Lodgewood Mfg. -Gun Parts: Lodgewood Mfg. -Sword: Legendary Arms. -Side-arms: Lodgewood Mfg., C&D Jarnagin, Fall Creek Sutlery. Miscellaneous: -Canteen Half: C&D Jarnagin, Village Tinsmith. -Hemp Rope/Twine: Blue Heron Mercantile, Wooded Hamlet Designs. -Needles/Thread Goods: Needle&Thread. -Custom Leatherwork: Period Leather Co. -Lye Soap: Blue Heron Mercantile, Cranes Post, The Flying Turtle Mercantile. -Pocket Knives: G. Gedney Godwin Inc., S&S Sutlery, Ezra Barnhouse Goods. -Woolen Goods (i.e. scarves, mittens): S&S Sutlery, Ezra Barnhouse Goods, Richmond Depot. -Ration Bags, Wallets, Housewives: C&D Jarnagin, S&S Sutlery. -Soldier Goods (i.e. dominoes, cards, nightshirts, etc.): The Flying Turtle Mercantile, -Glassware: Ezra Barnhouse Goods, Carter and Jasper. -Stationary/Period Paperwork, Etc.: Sullivan Press, Cranes Post. -Period Tobacco Pipes: The Flying Turtle Mercantile, Ezra Barnhouse Goods. -Tobacco Products: The Flying Turtle Mercantile, Ezra Barnhouse Goods. -Period Personal Items (i.e. toothbrush, comb, etc.): John Zaharias, Ezra Barnhouse Goods. -Mess “frying” Pan: Frank Ellis, Upper Mississippi Valley Mer. Co., C&D Jarnagin, Carter and Jasper. -Tin Cup: Village Tinsmith, C&D Jarnagin, Otter Creek Tinware, Wisconsin Veterans Museum. -Tin Plate: Village Tinsmith, C&D Jarnagin, Wisconsin Veterans Museum. -Flatware: John Zaharias, Tart Brantly&Benjamin, C&D Jarnagin, C.J.Daley. -Powder: Powder Inc. (Goex), The Main Powder House (Elephant). -Manuals: Sullivan Press, Shamrock Hill Books&Gifts, Fall Creek Sutlery. -Hardtack: G.H. Bent Cookie Factory. -Parched Corn: Glad Corn, Blue Heron Mercantile. -Salt Pork: Blue Heron Mercantile (salt cured jowl bacon), Smithfield Hams (Luter‟s bacon).

VENDOR CONTACT LIST. In addition to those listed below, www.authentic-campaigner.com is a website where you can sometimes find used, high quality goods of many of the individuals and vendors on this list. Blue Heron Mercantile 4202 Hillside Dr Lafayette, IN 47909 765-474-8426 sales@blueheronmercantile.com www.blueheronmercantile.com/

The Company Tailor 325-895-4092 companytailor@gmail.com http://companytailor.googlespace.com/home

Carter and Jasper 1721 Stephenson Lane Spring Hill, TN 37174 carterandjasper@yahoo.com www.carterandjasper.com

Corner Clothiers 22158 Fairfield Rd. Gettysburg, PA 17325 717-337-2722 speedybri@comcast.net www.cornerclothiers.com

C&D Jarnagin Company 113 North Fillmore St. Corinth, MS 38834 662-287-4977 cjarnagin@bellsouth.net www.jarnaginco.com

County Cloth (Charlie Childs) 13797-C Georgetown St. N.E. Paris, OH 44669 330-862-3307 crchilds1@verizon.net www.crchilds.com

Clearwater Hat Company 1007 Clearwater Rd Newnata/Timbo, AR 72680 870-615-0555 www.clearwaterhats.com

Cranes Post First and Kings St. Bethel, MO 63434 660-284-6677 cranespost@marktwain.net www.cranespost.com

The Company Quartermaster 258 Zimmerman St. North Tonawanda, NY 14120 716-693-3239 t.schultz5@comcast.net http://members.bellatlac.net/~vze3jhwa/

Dell‟s Leather Works (Cathy Vertullo) 83 First Ave. Kingston, NY 12401 845-339-4916 dellw@dellsleatherworks.com www.dellsleatherworks.com

Dirty Billy‟s Hats 20 Baltimore St Gettysburg, PA 17325 717-334-3200 dirtybills@aol.com www.dirtybillyshats.com

Family Heirloom Weavers 125 O‟ San Lane Red Lion, PA 17356 717-246-5797 www.familyheirloomweavers.com

Duvall Leatherwork 314 Wyoming Ave. Kingston, PA 18704 570-283-9297 duvall_leatherwork@hotmail.com www.duvallleatherwork/storefront/bok

The Flying Turtle Mercantile 2222 Melrose Dr. No. 125 Wooster, OH 44691 330-264-5977 Folks@riverjunction.com www.flyingturtlemercantile.com

EJ Thomas Mercantile P.O. Box 332 Hatboro, PA 19040 215-500-1979 info@ejtmercantile.com http://www.ejtmercantile.com/index.html

G. Gedney Godwin Inc. P.O. Box 100 Valley Forge, PA 19481 610-783-0670 sales@gggodwin.com www.gggodwin.com

Frank Ellis Route 1, Box 341 Greenbriar, TN 37073 615-643-4842

G.H. Bent‟s Cookie Factory 7 Pleasant St. Milton, MA 02186 617-698-5945 info@bentscookiefactory.com www.bentscookiefactory.com/hardtack.htm

Ezra Barnhouse Goods 24120 State Route 161 Irwin, OH 43029 937-349-3571 crabby@ctcn.net www.ezrabarnhousegoods.com

The Grand Spectacle 110 S. Main Street Horseheads, NY 14845 607-732-7500 info@thegrandspectacle.com www.thegrandspectacle.com

Fall Creek Sutlery 917 E. Walnut St. Lebanon, IN 46052 765-482-1861 FCSutler@aol.com www.fcsutler.com

The Haversack Depot P.O. Box 311262 New Braunfels, TX 78131 830-620-5192 pcavanaugh1@satx.rr.com www.haversackdepot.com

Historic Clothiers (Nick Sekela) P.O. Box 28 Butler, NJ 07405 973-557-6733 nick@njsekela.com www.njsekela.com

Legendary Arms 370 Gees Mill Business Parkway NE Conyers, GA 30013 800-528-2767 sales@legendaryarms.com www.legendaryarms.com

Homespun Wares 160 County Road 479 Cedar Bluff, AL 35959 Jason@homespunwares.com www.homespunwares.com

Lodgewood Manufacturing P.O. Box 611 Whitewater, WI 53190 262-473-5444 lodgewd@idcnet.com www.Lodgewood.com

James Country Mercantile 111 North Main Liberty, MO 64068 816-781-9473 Jamescntry@aol.com www.jamescountry.com

The Maine Powder House (Swiss, Schuetzen, Goex) P.O. Box 5 Peru, ME 04290 207-562-7499 powder@mainepowderhouse.com www.mainepowderhouse.com

James River Armory 3601 Commerce Dr. Suite 110 Halethorpe, MD 21227 414-242-6991 jamesriverarmory@gmail.com www.jamesriverarmory.com

Mattimore Harness 512 South Third St. Laramie, WY 82070 307-745-8460 tom@civilwarboots.com www.civilwarboots.com

Robert Land Footwear 3909 Witmer Rd. PMB 139 Niagara Falls, NY 14305 www.robertlandhisoricshoes.com/servlet/StoreFront

Missouri Boot and Shoe 951 Burr Crossing Rd Neosho, MO 64850 417-451-6100 mobootandshoe@sbcglobal.net www.missouribootandshoe.com

L.D.Haning&Co. 9560 Neiswander Rd Ashville, OH 43103 . 614-837-5475 luther@ldhaning.com www.ldhaning.com/

Lorna Mitchell 23820 Crossley Hazel Park, MI 48030 989-413-1272 Lorna@theladiesdressmaker.com www.theladiesdressmaker.com

Morris Clothiers 4715 Cranberry Ave. Canton, OH 44709 330-498-0868 morrisclothiers@msn.com www.morris-clothiers.com

Powder Inc. (Goes, KIK, Swiss) 1861 North College Ave. Clarksville, AR 72830 479-705-0005 jerry@powderinc.com www.powderinc.com/index.html

Myrtle Avenue Clothiers 526 Hillcrest Pl. #1 Gettysburg, PA 17325 myrtleclothiers@aol.com www.myrtle-avenue.com

Richmond Depot 11531 New Forest Trail Midlothian, VA 23112 804-305-2968 sales@kabarr44.com www.richmonddepot.com

Needle&Thread 2215 Fairfield Rd. Gettysburg, PA 17325 717-334-4011 www.woodedhamlet.com

Shamrock Hill Books 770-402-0696 BKS1966@bellsouth.net www.bookguy.com

Otter Creek Tinware 26 Carver Street Brandon, VT 05733 tinman@ottertin.com www.ottertin.com

Smithfield Hams 311 County Street, Suite 201 Portsmouth, VA 23704 800-926-8448 info@smithfieldhams.com www.smithfieldhams.com

Past Reflections (Jackie Wakeling) Cedar Plaza Building 21649 Goddard Rd. Suite C160 Taylor, MI 48180 734-287-3288 tjbw502@comcast.net www.cwartillery.org/pastref.html

S&S Sutler 331 Buford Ave. Gettysburg, PA 17325 717-338-1990 sheads@comcast.net www.ss-sutler.com

Period Leather Co. (Joe Toth) 900 W. Predmore Oakland Township, MI 48363 248-814-8939 sales@joesleatherworks.com www.joesleatherworks.com/index.html

Stoney Brook Company 169 West Fifth St. Oswego, NY 13126 315-343-1557 chris@stoneybrookcompany.com www.stoneybrookcompany.com

***NOTE*** Only purchase products and fabrics from Stoney Brook that are Museum Grade quality and made From 100% Wool or Cotton. Sullivan Press P.O. Box 407 3405 Main St. Morgantown, PA 19543 610-286-7905 owner@sullivanpress.com www.sullivanpress.com

Village Tinsmith P.O. Box 539 Hamptonville, NC 27020 336-468-1190 www.csa-dixie.com/villagetinsmith.htm

Tart, Brantly&Benjamin (Ben Tart) Wambaugh, White, and Company

1451 Old Goldsboro Rd. Newton Grove, NC 27882 252-883-5374 www.bentart.com

P.O. Box 445 Charlotte, MI 48813 517-303-3609 dan@wwandcompany.com www.wwandcompany.com

TP&H Trading Co. (Tim Bender) 121 Carriage Dr. Birdsboro, PA 19508 610-582-0327 tph_trading@msn.com www.benderhats.com

Wedeward Sack Coats (John Wedeward) 1900 Pleasant View Dr. Stoughton, WI 53589 608-873-8503 weed@madtown.net www.cwquartermaster.com

Trans-Mississippi Depot Company 209 West Spur Dr Cottonwood, AZ 86326 928-649-1395 drsmith4895@earthlink.net www.trans-mississippi.com

Wisconsin Veterans Museum 30 W. Mifflin St. Madison, WI 53703 608-267-1799 Giftshop.Manager@dva.state.wi.us www.museum.dva.state.wi.us/

Traveling Man’s Emporium 1406 Airport Court McDonough, GA 30252 404-358-5611 kievandleah@comcast.net www.armoryguards.org/travelingman/

Zimmerman, John P.O. Box 1351 (1195 Washington St.) Harpers Ferry, WV 25425 304-535-2558 www.edsmart.com/jz/

Upper Mississippi Valley Mercantile Co. 1607 Washington St. Davenport, IA 52804 563-320-5330 umvmco@aol.com www.umvmco.com

Wooded Hamlet 2215 Fairfield Rd. Gettysburg, PA 17325 717-334-4011 www.woodedhamlet.com

Created: February, 2003 by John Difatta Updated: 1/2/11