Highly versatilebiotic goodness

Miso, like soy sauce, is a healthy fer-mented product that plays a pivot-

al role in seasoning washoku fare. Both condiments share roots in China, yet as early as 1,300 years ago had already evolved to suit the Japanese diet. By the late 1500s they had become authentically Japanese seasonings with a savory aroma and in-tense umami quite unlike those of their Chinese counterparts.

Traditionally an important source of protein, miso can be divided into three types: that made solely of soybeans, a kind made with rice, and a third made with barley. The latter two use soybeans as a sec-ondary ingredient.

As it is produced from locally harvest-ed ingredients, miso varies in color, flavor, and taste depending on where it is made. Likewise there are a multitude of recipes throughout Japan for its use. It is often sim-mered down, for example, with minced

fish or meat and vegetables to yield con-densed pastes that are eaten with rice or used in dips and sauces. Partially sun-dried daikon radish or salt-cured eggplant and other vegetables are often marinated in miso. And miso is, of course, the essential seasoning for its eponymous soup—an indispensable companion to rice in the washoku diet.

Miso makes an excellent marinade for fish and meat as it aids preservation, re-moves unpleasant odors, and adds savory flavor. The oilier blue-backed fishes like mackerel are often stewed with miso to mitigate their briny scent. Boiled daikon, turnips, or jellied konnyaku are commonly served with miso-based sauces, while the dish known as dengaku takes miso as its main seasoning: tofu pieces are grilled, spread with the paste, and lightly roasted.

Commonly used in sauces for aemono cooked salads, miso also blends well with

such regular components of Western fare as oil, butter, and cream. Tremendously versatile, it is one of the greatest features of washoku.

At Kakukyu Hatcho Miso in Okazaki, Aichi prefecture, miso makers fill giant cedar casks with 6 tons of miso, pile 3 tons of river rocks on top, and let the mash ferment for at least two years.

1. Hatcho miso is a classic deep-flavored soybean paste. 2. White Saikyo miso made with rice is a representative style of miso from the Kansai re-gion. 3. Reddish-brown barley miso has a salty taste. 4. Kakukyu Hatcho Miso has a five-century history. www.hatcho-miso.co.jp

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The ultimate naturalflavor enhancer

An indispensable, all-round seasoning for washoku, soy sauce comes in a few colors

and flavors—some are dark, some light, some almost colorless, and some faintly sweet. Koikuchi dark soy sauce is the standard type used in all parts of Japan, but its flavor and aroma vary from region to region. Usukuchi light-colored soy sauce is pop-ular in Kyoto and its surrounding areas. Colorless “white” soy sauce is used in Nagoya and its envi-rons, and sweet-flavored soy sauce is characteristic of cooking in Kyushu.

Dark-colored soy sauce is essential in Japan as a dipping sauce for such universal favorites as nigiri-zushi and sashimi. This full-bodied sauce with concentrated umami and a subtle bean aro-ma is said to help soothe the nerves. Dark soy sauce is an excellent marinade for grilled fish and meat, and its light hint of vanilla in the nose makes it a fine match for fruity compotes and sauces or dishes featuring berries. Added to stewed fish, dark soy sauce ameliorates the smell and ups the umami factor. As the intense color of koikuchi

soy sauce can dull the vivid brightness of vegeta-bles, for some dishes light usukuchi or colorless “white” soy sauce is combined with an umami-rich dashi instead.

Soy sauce is also used to flavor takikomi gohan meals of rice steamed together with other in-gredients. When added to fried rice or pilaf as a finishing touch, soy sauce imparts an appetizing roasted aroma. A must seasoning for aemono cooked salads, soy sauce is also perfectly compati-ble with all kinds of oil.

1. The makers of Yugeta soy sauce in Saitama pre-fecture use wooden vats to ferment the product.2. The freshly pressed, un-pasteurized liquid is bot-tled immediately upon fil-tering.3. Owner Yoichi Yugeta.4. Full-bodied unpasteur-ized soy sauce is an ideal match for sashimi.

yugeta.com

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SakeCarefully milled rice is washed to clean it of residual nuka powder and then soaked in water before the steaming process begins.

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An integral part of Japan’s culinary tradition

Sake is liquor brewed from rice. Its most basic ingredients are 1.3 parts

water to 1 part rice, as measured by weight, and the magical Aspergillus oryzae mold, which provides the enzymes neces-sary to break down the starches inherent in rice to fermentable glucose and still other sugars that shape its flavor.

The complex and subtle flavors pro-duced by these few and simple ingredients vary from region to region and indeed, from brewery to brewery. And just as there are different grape varietals in wine, there are different rice strains in sake.

From milling the rice to pressing and filtering each precious drop of the moromi mash into the liquid we know and love is a labor-intensive process requiring two to three months. The many delicate steps in-

volved along the way are another factor behind the great variety of flavors found in sake produced by different breweries.

The role of the toji brewmaster cannot be underestimated. He is in charge of se-lecting the raw materials and managing the entire production process. With sharp discernment acquired through years of ex-perience, he closely monitors the changes that occur in the temperature and compo-sition of the moromi mash as it ferments. Using biotics to his advantage, he guides the natural workings of A. oryzae to craft a sake that befits his brewery’s product pro-file and reputation.

As sake is brewed mostly in winter, any one batch of it is enjoyed at various stages of maturity through the one-year con-sumption cycle. From late winter to spring,

freshly pressed sake arrives on market. Over the next months and through the summer it ripens, acquiring a richer, more mellow taste. These natural changes in its flavor profile are part of its allure, and dovetail with the appreciation of seasonal nuance that is such a focal point of washoku. As such, the enjoyment of sake is intrinsically tied to the Japanese culinary tradition.

Combined with time-honored tech-niques, cutting-edge technologies have en-abled a mesmerizing array of sake today. With its wide-ranging aromas and flavor profiles, sake complements not only wa-shoku, but other world cuisines as well. As its popularity abroad continues to grow, more people are showing interest in the particular styles and distinctions of Japan’s many brewing regions.

Stirring the moromi mash to release its waste gas is an important task for the brewmaster, who is responsible for the success of the fermentation and ultimately, the final flavor profile of the sake.

Over a complex process demanding great techni-cal skill as well as seasoned intuition, what began as milky-white grains of rice is transformed into pure, crystal-clear sake.

Preparation of cultured koji grain is the heart of the brewing process. Rice is steamed for two days as its temperature is closely monitored, then inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae spores to begin fermentation.

In sake creation, advanced techniques and tradi-tional ways coexist. Wooden beams stretch over fermentation tanks within the Ozawa Brewery west of central Tokyo. www.sawanoi-sake.com

The star of any brewery’s product portfolio, daiginjo labels are made with highly polished rice and the most labor-intensive techniques.

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Building blocks of good flavor

VinegarJapanese vinegars include the most com-monly used clear or “white” vinegar made from polished rice, and a reddish- brown vinegar, known as akazu, which is made from the lees left over after sake is pressed from its moromi mash. Akazu un-dergoes three years of ripening, and con-sequently acquires a characteristically more intense and full-bodied flavor than the naturally mild ordinary vinegar. This mature vinegar is commonly used at fine sushi restaurants in Tokyo. Another type of vinegar is kurozu, or black vinegar, which also is made from rice but ex-posed liberally to the sun during fermen-tation. And there are vinegars made from other grains and fruits, though the vol-ume of production is a mere fraction compared with that of rice vinegar.

The accepted wisdom in Japan is that one should eat a vinegared dish when fatigued or lacking appetite, so aemono cooked salads dressed with vinegar are regularly served in the sweltering days of summer. Undoubtedly vinegar is a great appetite stimulant; it’s also effective at removing fishy odors from seafood and preventing food poisoning. Added to small fish cooked in soy sauce, vinegar takes the edge off the saltiness and makes the fish so tender that even the calcium-rich bones can be digested easily; it also helps preserve the dish longer. When small fish are grilled or deep-fried whole and then marinated in vinegar, similarly

they can be easily eaten from head to tail. White-fleshed fish, mackerel, kohada giz-zard shad, and mamakari Japanese shad are often marinated in vinegar for the antibacterial effect and to gain a good balance between salty and sour tastes. A few drops of vinegar tenderize meat and enhance its flavor as well as diminish any greasy aftertaste. Vinegar-pickled turnips and ginger stimulate the appetite; the lat-ter, known as gari, is the standard accom-paniment to sushi. Vinegar promotes the secretion of saliva, and thus aids diges-tion, while it also lowers blood pressure and reduces both visceral fat and blood lipids. Its pleasantly tart savoriness and antibacterial properties have contributed as much to the development of Japan’s sushi culture as have the abundance of good rice and fish.

MirinMade by fermenting a mixture of shochu distilled spirits, rice that’s been cultured with the Aspergillus oryzae mold, and steamed rice, mirin is a sweetener unique to Japan. Less intensely sweet than sugar, it has an understated, mild flavor. A few drops of it rid egg dishes of their eggy smell and freshen a pan of stewing fish. While miso and soy sauce are the two most basic washoku seasonings, mirin is often used to enhance a dish’s umami. Mixed with either of those two, it makes

an excellent basting sauce that brings a nice glaze to grilled or simmered fish. Kabayaki-style grilled eel basted with mi-rin and soy sauce is a mouthwatering Japanese classic. Mixing mirin and soy sauce with fruit nectars, berries, pureed tomatoes, or tomato paste opens a wealth of finger-licking marinade possibilities for beef, pork, and poultry.

SaltThree types of sea salts are used in wa-shoku: coarse-grained, fine-grained, and roasted. Less common are moshio, or salt extracted from seaweed, and yamajio mountain salt made in the Okuaizu area of Fukushima prefecture. Coarse-grained salt is used to wilt vegetables for pickling and cure fish for grilling, while fine-grained salt and moshio are used as sea-sonings. In Kyoto, sake-infused salt is used to season simmered vegetables and clear soups.

SugarThe unrefined black cane sugar of Oki-nawa is rich in minerals. Used to prepare braised pork belly, it not only freshens the smell of the meat, it helps reduce blood lipids as well. Wasanbon sugar made in Tokushima prefecture has a subtle, enticing flavor and is an essential ingredient for wagashi sweets.

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YakumiPiquant, peppery, and zesty kicks

A culinary term for the herbs and other natural raw botanicals used in washoku to spice and

garnish foods, yakumi convey a poetic sense of the season as they bring both antibacterial and flavor-enhancing properties to dishes. They also stimu-late the appetite with their verve and bright scents.

Yuzu is a citrus fruit prized for its elegant fra-grance. It is used throughout the year, but in differ-ent guises: in spring its young leaves, blossoms, calyxes, and baby fruits are harvested; in summer its young green fruit arrives in markets; as the days shorten its mature yellow fruit appears. Yuzu zest is often used in clear soups and simmered dishes, while its juice brightens sauces.

Sansho pepper also enlivens washoku across the seasons. Its buds and blossoms garnish clear soups and simmered dishes. Young sansho berries enhance simmered dishes, while powder made from their dried mature fruit is a must flavoring for grilled eel.

Wasabi mitigates the risk of eating raw fish, preventing food poisoning with its pungent anti-bacterial properties. Freshly grated, it is a classic accompaniment to sashimi, nigiri-zushi, and soba noodles, whose delicate bouquet is counterbal-anced by its nose-tingling punch.

Shiso perilla comes in two types: red and green. Its young buds garnish sashimi and diminish its fishy smell. Its bright green leaves are used to set off the pinks and reds of sashimi to advantage.

Myoga zingiber has a subtle scent and a taste similar to ginger. It is used to flavor and garnish both sashimi and noodles. An early-summer and autumn crop, myoga is now cultivated throughout the year.

Ginger, or shoga, is grated and served with sashimi, and in pickled form, known as gari, it al-ways accompanies sushi. It warms the body and also has strong germicidal powers, which is why it is often used in stews made with blue-backed fish and steamed dishes in winter.

Negi belongs to the leek family, and its green and white forms are used widely, in soups, sim-mered recipes, hotpots, donburi rice dishes, and noodles. Negi has a calming effect. Like all yakumi, it brings a mild scent and a crisp spiciness to wa-shoku dishes.

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Confections forevery season

Wagashi is the term used to distinguish tradi-tional Japanese sweets from their Western

counterparts, which are known as yogashi. Wagashi come in an astounding variety of shapes and styles, and are variously classified according to the cooking method used, such as steaming or bak-ing, or by their water content, namely the un-cooked and very moist namagashi or omogashi, the less moist han-namagashi, and dry higashi sugar candies. There are the high-end jo-namagashi served to guests, used as gifts, and presented at the tea ceremony, and the common dagashi loved by all children and eaten as snacks.

Wagashi sweets served at the tea ceremony are a universe unto themselves, with a vast array of de-signs and ingredients. Omogashi are served with thick koicha tea, while higashi are offered with thin usucha. Within omogashi are many varieties like kinton, a sweet ball typically made of bean paste and coated with colorful flakes, and soft gyuhi cakes made of glutinous rice powder and sugar. Both omogashi and higashi convey seasonal themes in their designs and colors, the former typically with abstract nuances of color and form, and the latter with representations of plants, flowers, and themes such as spring cherry blossoms, flowing water in summer, autumn leaves, and bright win-ter peonies.

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Yokan, a dense block of sweet azuki-bean paste, and manju, a ball of dough filled with the paste, are often presented at the tea ceremony, but they are also standard confections regularly sent as gifts or served to guests.

Omogashi sweets (above) and higashi dried confections (below) by Tsuruya Hachiman

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A dose of instant serenity

A cup of tea soothes when we are tired and takes the edge off

when we feel restless. There are many kinds of green tea in Japan, and each has a calming and healing effect. Each type has its optimum water tempera-ture for brewing the perfect cup. But whatever the type, Japanese green tea is meant to be enjoyed on its own without sugar, milk, lemon, or honey. Follow the steps here for brewing the perfect cup, and take a moment to re-lax and appreciate the subtle taste and aroma of its liquor.

Gyokuro is the finest of Japanese teas, with complex layers of sweetness and umami. The leaves of its well- fertilized bushes are shaded from sun-light before harvest, and only new

leaves are picked, to be processed im-mediately. As gyokuro is high in caf-feine, brew with water well below the boiling point at about 65°C. Sip a small amount at a time, rolling it on the tongue before swallowing. For an afternoon treat, serve with sweets that do not overwhelm the tea’s delicate profile, such as mild nerigashi confec-tions made with rice flour and bean paste.

Sencha is the most commonly served green tea. Its bushes are grown in full sunlight, but like gyokuro only the new leaves are harvested. To brew, use water that is 70°C to 75°C. Sencha has a full-bodied umami and sweet taste, though less pronounced than gyokuro. With this brew as well, sip a

small amount and roll it on your tongue. Enjoy the second pot for the slight bitterness of tannin, and the third for the lingering fragrance and refreshing astringency. Sweets are best served with this final, third pot of tea. Sencha can be infused with cold water, too.

Bancha is made from leaves and stems left to grow on the bushes after the first sencha harvest. This tea is rich in catechins and vitamin C. To brew, infuse with boiling water and turn off the heat just before the water begins to boil again. Hojicha is a woodsy tea made from sencha or bancha that has been roasted. These three forms of Japanese tea are drunk daily, often with a meal. Bancha in particular is an excellent match for fatty foods.

Japanese green teasGyokuro

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Teacups and saucers by Tosai

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