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Visit: www.BKMEA/BGMEA/EPB.com A. H Rahul
[email protected] Hot line:01711-
474748
Knitwear Merchandising
Knit Garment’s Related with TRADE
GLv‡b TRADE = Buying & Selling. RGM = Ready met Garments Manufacturing GMT = Garments Manufacturing Technique MZ 2007-2008 Bs A_©eQ‡i evsjv‡`‡ki ißvbxi 78% ˆe‡`wkK gy`ªv Av‡m Mv‡g©Ý †_‡K hv 14.1 wewjqb gvwK©b Wjvi|
Material Garments Ready met Garments
Process Textile
1. Fibre (KvuPv gvj) †_‡K Yarn (myZv) ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Spinning Mill e‡j|2. Yarn (myZv) ‡_‡K Knit Wear ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Knit wear mill e‡j|3. Grey fabric (eY©wenxb) ‡_‡K Finishing ch©š— ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Dying/printing/ Finishing mill e‡j|4. Kvc‡oi wdwbwks †_‡K Rvgv ch©š— ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Garments Industry ev Apparel Industry e‡j|Avi D‡jL¨ †h, 1, 2 I 3 bs mvwii me ¸‡jv‡K Textile mill e‡j|
Knitwear1. T- Shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq bv)2. Polo shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq )3. Shorts/Half pant 4. Pant/TrouserAvevi †`Lv hvq ‡h, T-shirt Mjv `yB ai‡bi ev Zvi †P‡q †ekx n‡Z cv‡i †hgb t Round neck/V- neck
Most of fibre/Yarn1. Cotton (N) 5. Silk [N (a)] 9. Linen (N) 2. Polyester (M.M/S) 6. Acrylic(M.M/S) 10. Ramil(N)3. Nylon (M.M/S) 7. Wool [N (a)]4. Rayon/Viscose (M.M/S) 8. Jute (N) GLv‡b, N = Natural ,A = Animal, M.M = Man made, S = Synthetic. GKgvÎ Rayon/Viscose hv Natural row material ‡K process Gi gva¨‡g ˆZwi Kiv nq e‡j G‡K Re- generate yarn e‡j | D‡jL¨ †h, Natural yarn G limit _v‡K ( without silk)
Avi, Synthetic yarn G †Kvb limit _v‡K bv| Natural yarn ‡K ejv nq = Staple yarn Synthetic yarn (with silk) ‡K ejv nq = Filament yarn
Knit wear + woven production Process
Woven Knit Vertical yarn
Horizon Interlacing process yarn
1. Aek¨B 1 †mU I 1 †mU K‡i `yB †mU myZv jvM‡e|
2. Woven Gi Kvco Inter lacing c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq| (1 †mU Ver: 1 †mU Hori: myZv GKUvi wfZi Av‡iKwU XywK‡q †Zwi Kiv Kvco‡K Inter lacing c×wZ e‡j|)
3. Uvb‡j j¤^v nq bv|4. Woven Kvco Woven Mechanism
c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq|
Inter Looping Process1. ïay gvÎ 1 †mU myZv w`‡q
ˆZwi nq|2. Knit Gi Kvco Inter looping
c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq| (1 †mU myZv c¨vPv‡q c¨vPv‡q †Zwi Kiv Kvco‡K Inter looping c×wZ e‡j|)
3. Uvb‡j j¤^v nq |4. Knit Kvco Knit Mechanism
c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq|
YARN (Knit fabric (KG `‡i wKbv nq|)
Coarser (‡gvUv) Finer ( wPKb)
Gram per square miter (GSM)
1. Kvco †K‡U ( Cutter Gi gva¨‡gt- KvUvi wbw`ó cwigv‡ci Kvco Kv‡U hvi e¨vm 11.1 †mtwgt )
2. Digital Balance (GK ai‡bi IRb gvcvi †gwkb)3. IRb x 100 MÖvg ( awi IRb 2.1 MÖvg x 100 )
Yarn numbering
Unit of yarn numbering. 1. Count, 2. Tex, 3. Denier, 4. metric number(Nm).Avgv‡`i †`‡k Count System Gi cÖPjb †ekx | Tex, Denier, metric number(Nm) International wn‡me& | Count : 840 MR myZv w`‡q ‰Zwi nq1 Hank Ges 1 cvDÛ IR‡b hZ Hanks myZvi Count (+ -Accepted ) ZZ n‡e|
Example: Yarn count is 17 means (count Gi msL¨v hZ †ekx myZv ZZ wPKb n‡e)
1 pound 17.03 Hanks
Tex: 1000 Miter myZv ev Yarn Gi IRb hZ MÖvg myZvi Tex ZZ MÖvg| (Tex Gi msL¨v hZ †ekx myZv ZZ †ekx †gvUv)
Example: Yarn Tex is 23 means
1000 miter 23 Gram. Yarn
Knitwear count use (20,24,26,30,34,40) 20/1 or 24/1------------ use in knitwear. OR- 20/S, 30/S ( 1 = S = Single of Yarn) Other one is , 20/2 or 20/3 or 20/4 20/ ply/plied yarn ( 2 or 3 or 4 = Ply/ plied yarn) Ply yarn use in for thread / Sewing fabric.(40/2, 50/2 , 60/2 )
Quality is the customer satisfaction
1. 100% Cotton on the basic of fabric 6. 100% Nylon 2. 100% polyester 7. 100% Wool 3. 65% Polyester 35% Cotton 8. 100% Acrylic 4. P/C, T/C 9. 100% Rayon / Viscose5. CVC
Garments Fabric Yarn Fibre
1. 100% Cotton: There are two kinds of cotton (A) Carded cotton, (B) Combed cotton.
(A) Carded cotton (B) Combed cotton
100 kg Row material 100 kg Row material Many process Many process +
With combed Ma:
Yarn 75 kg Yarn 70 kgCarded yarn (Hairy yarn) Combed yarn
Combed /Carded yarn me †P‡q fvj KviY G‡Z DbœZ cÖhyw³ e¨envi Kiv nq Ges Combed Gi †¶‡Î combed M/C e¨envi nq hvi Kvi‡b 1/2 Bw Gi †QvU myZvi KvPv gvj e¨envi nq bv | ZvB Combed ¸bMZ gvj fvj Ges `vg I †ekx|2. 100% polyester : (100% yarn is called = Solid yarn, Tatron is the brand name of Polyester ) 3. 65% Polyester 35% Cotton: ( Mixed yarn is called = Blended yarn)4. CVC: Chief Value of cotton. CVC means more than 50% cotton, P/C means more than 50% polyester. Most common of mixed of P/C = 65/35, 80/20/ 70/30. If 50% Cotton + 50% other mixed with fabric that called Union Yarn. Mélange yarn = Blended Yarn . (Mélange yarn must be mixed with viscose Yarn) Mélange Yarn are many kind they are 1. Blue 2. pink 3. Yellow 4. Grey 5. Ecru Etc. Cotton + Viscose 98% cotton 2% Viscose = Ecru yarn Or 85% cotton + 15% Viscose =Grey yarn Lycra: Is one kind of Elastic yarn (300 – 800 elasticity) Lycra is trade of Du pont Company (USA) It used in 3 to 7%. Slub Yarn : ‡Kv_vI †gvUv †Kv_vI wPKb GB ai‡bi Yarn †K Slub Yarn e‡j | GB ai‡bi Yarn jeans pant G †ekx e¨envi nq| Slub Yarn `yB ai‡bi 1.Regular. 2. Irregular.1. GREY yarn (is Qvov ), 2. DYED yarn ( is Kiv ) |
Basic knit wear fabric Mechanism There are many kind of knit fabric in the world, our country have mainly used in 7 itrm \ Fabric as show in below:
1. Single jersey plain fabric, 2. Pique Fabric, 3. Lacoste Fabric, 4. Iffle Fabric, 5. Rib Fabric, 6. Interlock Fabric, 7. Stripe Fabric
Loop Mechanism
Row/Course/Waft (Only Mosquito net) Column/Wale/Warp(All knit Fabric)
Course: A row of loop across the width of the fabric. Measured usually as CPC or
CPI.
Wale: A column of loop along the length of the fabric. Measured usually as WPC or
WPI.
Loop length: The length of yarn in a loop . Usually expressed in CM.
Loop Density : The number of loop per unit area. (CPC x WPC)
Area Density: The weight of loop per unit area.
CPC=Course per Centimeter. CPI= Course per inch.
WPC= Wale per Centimeter. WPI= Wale per Inch.
OZS= Per square Yds( OZS= Ounces), 1 kg=2.2046 LBS(LBS=Pound), 1 Pound=
453.6 gram, 16 ozs= 1 pound, 1yds=36(inch), 1 miter= 39.37(inch) etc.
Single Jersey Made on one set of needles in the machine. Machine Gauge=24-28. Single jersey fabric look face side and inside is not same, Always different each other side.
Needle 1 ‡mU j¤^v jw¤^ fv‡e _v‡K|
Single jersey are two kinds (a) Pique, (b) Lacoste.
Mechanism Different: One machine have many parts, some parts of knitting matching are follow: 1. Needle, 2. Cam, 3. Sinker, 4. Cylinder.
Knit cam. Tuck cam.
Pique: Loop. (Avgiv pique fabric loop ‡Mvj †`‡L wPb‡ev ) Knit cam and tuck cam mechanism G ˆZwi Kiv nq|
Lacoste: Loop (Avgiv lacoste fabric loop Qq †KvbvKvi †`‡L wPb‡ev ) Knit cam + tuck cam Gi gvSLv‡b knit cam ewm‡q mechanism G ˆZwi Kiv nq|
Needle (GKUv †gwk‡b A‡bK wb‡Wj _v‡K GB wb‡Wj mvwii g‡a¨ wbw`ó †Kvb bv¤^v‡ii wb‡Wj Wªc w`‡q †h wWRvBb ˆZwi Kiv nq ZvB Wªc wb‡Wj wWRvBb| †hgbt cÖwZ 5Uv wb‡Wj cici 1Uv K‡i wb‡Wj Wªc K‡i ˆZwi Kiv nq|)
Double jersey plain Made on two sets needles in the machine. Double jersey fabric look face & inside is same. Double jersey have three kind- (a) Rib, (b) Interlock, (c) Waffle(Tharmat).
Needle 1 set j¤^v jw¤^ fv‡e I Ab¨ 1 †mU AvovAvwo fv‡e _v‡K|
Rib1.Plain Rib or only rib or 1 x 1 rib.
Loop Mechanism
Needle2. 2 x 2 Rib (one needle gap each mechanism)
Loop mechanism
3. 3 x 3 Rib (Two needle gap each mechanism)
Loop Mechanism
4. 2 x 1 Rib (One needle gap after three Needle each mechanism)
Loop Mechanism
Rib used in cuff & collar. Rib Uvb‡j j¤^v nq| `yB †mU wb‡Wj gyLvgywL _v‡K bv hv wP‡Î †`Iqv Av‡Q| most of rib used in 1x1, 2x1, 2x2, 3x3, 3x2, 5x5 etc. Rib machine gauge 16-18. Needle position is Zigzag ( AuvKvevKv).
Interlock
Needle position
Interlock used in Trouser, Sports, wear, Underwear, Bra etc. Interlock Uvb‡j j¤^v nq bv | `yB †mU wb‡Wj gyLvgywL _v‡K hv wP‡Î †`Iqv Av‡Q| Interlock machine Gauge 22-24. Needle position is face to face.
Stripe Fabric There are two kind of stripe fabric are (a) Feeder stripe, (b) Engineer stripe.
Feeder stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch g‡a¨ n‡j ZvB feeder stripe. (Repeat length) Red Engineer stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch Gi †ekx n‡j ZvB Engineer stripe.
Black Dia miter=20 to 40 inch, No. of feeders (no. of cons) =20 to 120 Engineer stripe machine look like embroidery machine. It is 100% Red Computerize machine, it control the needle and feeder. So engineer stripe have Black no limit.( ‡Kvb wbw`ó stripe w`‡q ïi“ K‡i K‡qKwU bZzb stripe ˆZwi Kivi ci c~Yivq Av‡Mi wWRvB‡b (stripe)wd‡i hvIqv‡K Repeat length e‡j|
Stripe need must be two kind of yarn.
Machine Specification
1. Dia miter= 12 to 60 inch(20 to 40 are common 90%)2. No.of feeders (No.of cons) = 60 to 144 ( wb‡Wj ¯’vc‡bi RvMqv †K feeders e‡j|)3. Machine Gauge = 16-284. Machine Efficiency=80% to 95%.
Stripe Kivi Rb¨ 5/6/7 wb‡Wj cici 1/2/3 Uv wb‡Wj †fwbk K‡i wWRvBb Kiv nq|
Knit wear fabric specification
Finished GSM of the fabric. For example:- 100% cotton,30/s yarn, S/J fabric, Finished fabric, GSM 130-135.
Fiber , Yarn, Fabric GSM vs Yarn count Factor related to GSM –(1) Yarn count. (2) Machine gauge(No.of needle per inch/loop Gi
NbZ¡ †K eySvq), (3) Yarn tension (loop Gi height Kwg‡q †`qv ev evwo‡q †`qv) | GB wZb cw×wZi gva¨‡g Avgiv Kvc‡oi GSM evov‡Z ev Kgv‡Z cvi‡ev| wb‡gœ KZ evov‡bv ev Kgv‡bv hv‡e Zvi GKwU ZvwjKv †`Iqvt-
Yarn Yarn count with M/C gauge 24 Yarn count with M/C gauge 2830/s 130-140 15026/s 155-160 17024/s 175-180 19020/s 190-200 21040/s 95-100 11034/s 110-120 125
Comparative different between S/J, Rib, Interlock.
S/J Rib Interlock1. Loop position :
Face sideBack side2. Loop in 1 side.3. Curling/rolling happened4. T/polo shirt body fabric
1. Loop position:
Face sideBack side2.Loop in both side3. C/R no.4.Neck, cuff, collar
1. Loop position:
Face sideBack side2. Loop in both side3. C/R no.4. Sports wear, underwear
Coloration
Coloration means to apply color on textile materials. Coloration ways: (1) Dyeing, (2) Printing. Printing: To apply color on surface. Dyeing: To apply color on both side. Dyeing process: Water + (Dyed) + Chemicals1. Fabric Dyeing, 2. Yarn Dyeing, 3. Fibre Dyeing , 4. Garment Dyeing. patter : Stripe [Yarn dyeing – Knitting- Fabric (stripe)] Patter : Solid [ Yarn dyeing – knitting – solid color fabric] patter : Solid [Grey yarn- knitting – dyeing-solid color fabric] Fabric dyeing & Yarn dyeing Gi g‡a¨ cv_©K¨ eyS‡Z n‡j Kvco †_‡K †h †Kvb GKwU myZv †ei K‡i †`L‡Z n‡e cy‡iv myZvUvB hw` GKB Kvjvi g‡b nq Zvn‡j Yarn dyeing Avi mvgvb¨ cv_©K¨ _vK‡j Fabric dyeing . Textile Material – Fabric / Yarn / Fibre / Garment. ----------
---------
-------- Machine + Fabric+ Water+ Dyes+ Chemicals=Dyes Solution (Chemicals = Salt, Soda Ash, Acid , Softener sequestering Agent) M: L = Material : Liquored 100 kg : 900 liter waterQuality of dyes required for particular yarn or Fabric is called shad percentage. For example:- 1% Shad 1 kg dyes required for 100kg yarn or fabric.
Below 1% shad = Light shadOver 1 to 3% shad = Medium shadOver 5% to ---- = Dark shadTotal Shad percent = (0.001 to 12%)
Dark Color: 1. Black ( Shad 8 – 12%) 2. Navy blue (Shad 0 – 7%)
3. Red (Shad 0 – 7%) 4. Green (Shad 0- 7% )
Dyed cost 1. For White = 32 to 40 Taka per KG2. For Black = 90 to 120 Taka per KG3. For Other color = 70 to 75 Taka per KG
Knitting cost
1. Single jersey = 7 to 9 Taka per KG2. Rib/ Interlock = 15 to 18 Taka per KG 3. Pique / Lacost = 13 to 15 Taka per KG4. Stripe (feeder) = 14 to 26 Taka per KG5. Stripe (Engine) = 80 to 200 Taka per KG6. Drop needle = 18 to 30 Taka per KG7. With lycra S/J or D/J = 15 to 35 Taka per KG
Yarn Cost : Most of Yarn = 2 to 2.50 $ Lycra/Elastic Yarn = 18 to 25 $
Dyeing & Printing1. Scoured Fabric, 2. Bleached Fabric, 3. Dyed Fabric, 4. Yarn dyed Fabric,5. Piece dyed Fabric, 6. Cross dyed Fabric, 7. Mercerized Fabric, 8. Grey fabric, 9. Finished Fabric, 10. White Fabric, 11. Printed Fabric.
There are three kinds of Dyeing Machine :- 1.Wings,2.Jet and 3.Polyester dyes by Disperse dyes.
1. Scoured Fabric=Grey fabric+Water+Shop/Detergent + Calendaring (B¯¿x) =Scoured Fabric. 2. Bleached Fabric= 1 no process same + Bleaching Powder + H2O2 ( It is always White)3. Dyed Fabric = 2 no process + Dyed4. Yarn dyed Fabric = (‡ccvi wUD‡ei myZvi †KŠb _v‡K c‡i Zv †gUvj wUD‡e ¯’vbvš—i Kiv nq Ges Gi g‡a¨ †gwk‡b is Kiv nq hv Ab¨ wUD‡e †KŠb ˆZwi K‡i|)5. Piece dyed Fabric = Same as 3 no process ( it is always Solid color dyed)6. Cross dyed Fabric = T/C,P/C dyed, First Cotton and than Polyester.7. Mercerized Fabric = Same as 2 no process + NaoH for Shining Fabric (D¾jZv evov‡bvi Rb¨)8. White Fabric = Same as 2 no process + Whitening Agent (Optical Brightener) 9. Printed Fabric : Bleached Fabric G color paste Gi gva¨‡g bloke Ges Skin print nq|
Knitting Machine Washing/Dyeing machine(with shop/detergent) Hydro extractor Machine Dryer Calendaring Finished Fabric
Fabric Inspection
Fabric inspection : Always follow 4.0 point system approve by American Apparel Manufacturer Association (AAMA). Fabric inspection tools: 1. Red sticker (arrow sticker for indicate fault), 2. Measuring Tape 3. Reporting Sheet. Defects :1.Hole,2.Shading,3.Oil spot,4.Loop Missing(Needle marks),5.Slub,6.Fly Yarn. Process : 1. Identify the defects and put red sticker, 2. Measure the length of defects.
Calculation :
Sl. No. Defects Length defects No. of defects penalty point1 Slub 0-3 inch 5 5x1=52 Hole up to -1 inch 6 6x2=23 Hole Over 1-3 Inch 3 3x4=12
4 Hole 10 inch 2 2x4=85 Shading 7 inch 2 2x4=86 Shading 8 inch 4 4x3=127 Loop
missing40 inch 1 4+2=6
Total = 61Formula (Result)
Point/100 Yds2 = X X 100 GLv‡b D‡jL¨ GB †h, 100 eM©M‡Ri g‡a¨ penalty point 40 n‡j Normal or †ekx n‡j Reject .
Production Calculation1. No. of Needle ?Ans: Calendar= 2Лr , Needle = 2Лr x Gauge. r = Radius (e¨vmva©)2. Calculate Production in Miter per shift of 12 hours of a knitting machine.Production in miter/Hours = x Efficiency = Time Require for knitting.
Production technique procedure and cut & sew knitwear
1. Sample section: Sample develop pattern grading 2. Cutting section : Marker making Fabric spelling Fabric Cutting Send to sewing.3. Sewing section: Garment assembling Garments inspection.4. Finishing section: Ironing accessories attached checking poly packing cartooning.
Arm Hole
Chest
Central back length
Neck
Sleeve length
T-Shirt1. Chest=90 cm2. ½ chest=45 cm3. CBL = 75 cm4. Arm hole=40 cm
5. Neck = 42 cmPattern : Make by hard drawing paper.Marker : A paper/fabric for cut fabric.
Knit fabric problem solving
Knit fabric problem: 1. Shrinkage(msKzwPZ), 2.GSM, 3. Color fastness, 4. Color shading.5. Elongation (Kvco j¤^v nIqv)
Buyer Dealings Merchandiser responsibilities:Should Received product package from buyer (Shirt/T-shirt, Pant etc.)1. Paper sketch (Qwe),2. Measurement(PvU© ), 3. Stitches (Plain/over lock), 4.Fabric details, 5. Accessories details, 6. Packing details, 7. Other. GB †cÖvWv± c¨v‡KR cvIqvi ci †m¤új ˆZwi Ki‡Z n‡e|
Buyer Dealings
Paper
Sample making
Not ok
Comment from buyer
Approved sample
Price negotiation
FOB +CM(Free on board+ cost of Making)Or Direct costAlways 20% of Direct cost indirect costAlways 5% of Direct cost
Profit
Make final cost for buyer
Order confirmation
Received Order sheet
Material collection
Master L/C
Back to Back L/C (for buy material)
Testing & inspection
Production 3 stage
If 1/3 production completed than email to buyer
Buyer checked final inspection
Shipment
Teacher: D. Mosiur Rahman
Back waist line Front waist line
Crotch/front side
ThighKnee line
----------Inseam
Leg opening
Knit wear fit and style analysis
There are various style of knit garment T-shirt like as-(1) Body fitting Y-shirt,(2) Easy T-Shirt, (3) Reglah T-shirt, (4) Tetrale Neck T-shirt,(5) Woodek T-shirt.
Body name of T-Shirt (1) Centre front CF, (2) Princess line, (3) Side seam,(3) Waist line, (4) Bottom opening, (5) Shoulder point,(6) High point shoulder HPS, (7) Chest line, (8) Hip line, (9) Neck line, (10) Bust line.
Dress are two type : 1) Casual 2) Formal
Casual-Sport wear, leas use wear, underwear. Formal-Shirt.
Style is nature of human being.
Style variation:1. Shape , 2. Value addition, 3. print/dyeing/embroytary,4. Color, 5. Material-Knit, woven, fur, place, length
Style mainly depends on them.
THEM
Mood Inspiration Source
Knitwear tops variation- (1) Gather in princess line top style,(2) Cowl neck top style,(3) pleatted opening style, (4) Layerd opening style.
Different sewing method and machine layout and stitch.
What is apparel / Knitwear merchandising?
From order collection to file close, every responsibility & handling of all kinds of specifications to shipment process and file closing are of Buyer.
Operational sequence of production:
Merchandising
Pre-order merchandising Post merchandising
(Marketing) (Execution)Buyer search Order trims/ACC/FabricInquiring received Fabric trims/ACC: ApprovalPricing Row material in houseNegotiation Production-ShipmentOrder Confirmation Payment receive-File closing.
Garment
Woven Knit
Cut & Sew (knit) fully fashion Knit(Sweater)
Different Sewing method & stitchesStitches are two types –
1. Needle + Bobbin = Lock stitch2. Needle + Lopper = Chain stitch
British Standard Institute (BSI)
BSI have 6 type of stitch method – 1. Class 100 Chain stitch2. Class 200 Hand stitch3. Class 300 Lock stitch4. Class 400 Multi tread chain stitch 5. Class 500 over edge chain stitch6. Class 600 covering chain stitch.
A Chart of Machine mechanism & production
Name Machine Type of stitch BSI Use in stitch on Garment Single needle Lock stitch C-100 Shoulder, blind stitch at formal
pant hem(fvR K‡i wmjvB) etc. Double needle Lock stitch C-300 Pocket, Placket, side slide etc.Over lock Chain stitch C-500 Side seam, In seam, Arm hole,
Shoulder joint etc.Pead of the arm / cylinder
Chain stitch C-500 Side seam, In seam, Arm hole, Shoulder joint etc.
Kansai/Multi needle Chain stitch C-400 Waist belt of trouser decoration stitch.
Normal button hole Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemBar taking Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemFlat lock Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemEyelet hole Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemFusing Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemSnap attach Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemButton attach Chain stitch C-600 All kind of knitted hemStrait knife cutting Chain stitch ---- Cutting Metal detector ----- --- Check the broken needle Needle Type- 1. Sharp , 2. Ball, 3. Universal
Sharp Ball Universal
Knit Garment Process Breakdown
For T-shirt
Sl. Operation/process
Type of M/C
No. of M/C
Attachment Standard Minute Value
Production/ Hour
Remark
Front Nil --- --- --- -- -- --Back Nil --- --- --- --- -- --
Assembling 1.
Shoulder joint
O/L 01 -- 10 sec 330 pcs --
2. Neck rib mouth joint
SNLS 01 --- 03 sec 1000 pcs --
3. Neck joint O/L 01 -- 18 sec 180 pcs4. Neck to
stitch SNLS 01 -- 12 sec 100 pcs
5. Sleeve hem F/L 01 -- 45 sec 60 pcs6. Sleeve joint O/L 01 -- 70 sec 40 pcs7. Side seam
jointO/L `01 -- 90 sec 30 pcs
8. Bottom hem F/L 01 -- 90 sec 30 csFor Trouser
Front 1. Front rise close
O/L 01 170
Back 2. Back rise close
O/L 01 170
Assembling 3.
Side seam joint
O/L 02 170
4. Elastic 2 mouth closer
SNLS 01 180
5. Elastic joint with belt
O/L 01 60
6. Level joint SNLS 01 507. Waist belt
top joint F/L 01 50
8. Inseam O/L 02 309. Bottom Hem F/L 02 50
Acco. Atteched
Prepared by Checked by Approved by
For sewing layout formula
Front part Back part Assembling part1. Neck2. Sleeve3. Shoulder4. Side seam5. Bottom Hem 6. Accessories
Tread Consumption
M/C Name Stitch Name No. of Needle Tread use /inchLock stitch 1 2.5Chain stitch 1 4Over lock chain 3+ 1 14Over lock chain 4+ 2 17.5Over lock chain 5+ 2 23Covering chain 4+ 2 25Covering chain 9+ 4 32
Tank Top (Sleeveless Garments)
(1) Measurement : Garment Measurement (2) Fabric Weight (GSM)(3) Allowance .a. Neck = 48 cm + 4 (allowance)=52 cmb. Chest = 104 cm + 6 = 110 cmc. CBL = 68 cm. (center Back Length)d. Arm hold = 50 cme. HPS = 70 cm + 4 (allowance) = 74 cm (High shoulder point)f. Body GSM = 170-175g. Rib GSM = 215-220h. Sewing allowance i. Seam allowance (Bottom hem, sleeve , neck, hem)j. Shrinkage allowancek. Neck weight = 2 + 5 = 7 cml.
Consumption Calculation
Here , CPD (Consumption per Dozen) = L= Length
W = Weight
Men’s T-ShirtMeasurement
1. Neck = 42 + 2 = 44 cm2. HPS = 75 + 4 =79 cm3. Arm hole = 42 + 4 = 46 cm4. Sleeve opening = 20 + 2 = 22 cm5. Sleeve length = 22 + 4 =26 cm6. Neck width = 2 + 5 = 7 cm7. Hem width = 2 + 2 = 4 cm 8. Chest = 92 + 6 = 98 cm9. Slye depth ( from CBP to arm hole middle point)10. Body GSM = 145-15011. Rib GSM = 180-185
CPD (Consumption per Dozen) =
(cÖwZwU cvU© ev As‡ki Rb¨ Avjv`v Avjv`v KbRvgkb Ki‡Z n‡e D‡jL¨ †h w¯f ev Kvd Gi †¶‡Î L x W x 12 x GSM x 2 ¸b Ki‡Z n‡e|)
Costing for a T-shirt
Costing means total cost +profit
Printing rate-1 to 2.5$/dozen
Embroidery 10,000 stitch= 0.25 to 0.30 $/Dozen
Cost
Direct Cost Indirect Cost
1. Fabric 2. Accessories3. Cost of Manufacturing
Profit
It is depend on manufacturer. Generally indirect cost consume from 15-35% of Direct cost.
5% of Total value
Washing Name
Normal wash, Acid wash, Enzyme wash, Bleach wash, Stone wash, Sand blasting wash, Hand rubbing wash, Caustic wash, Big polish wash, Silicon wash, P.P. Spray
Wash rate-1 to 12 $/Dozen
What is Trims & Accessories?
Trims means T-shirt or other Garment have many Accessories attached with German’s body that is Trims and Without attach that is accessories.
Sewing tread in use
1. T-shirt = 100 miter2. Polo shirt = 120 miter3. Trouser = 160 miter
Garment’s Commercial Activities
Should received from buyer an order sheet/contract sheet. Then open a master L/C (Irrevocable L/C)
Paper requirement for L/C
Valid trade license Income tax declaration/Tin. Membership certificate. Memorandum of Association. Insurance cover note. Photograph. A copy of Indent/Agreement form. Guarantee Certificate.
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Master L/C Back to back L/C Proforma Invoice: For fabric/Accessories buy form. Bill of landing : For export from ship management
Inspection certificate: From buyer Bill of landing: Ship Captain.
Kind of Sample
1. Approved sample, 2. Fit sample, 3.Proto-type sample, 4.Pre-production sample, 5. Size set sample, 6 Production sample, 7.Custom/mutilated sample (For custom), 8. Shipping sample (for buyer)
Garments Orders
FOB = Free on board CM = Cost of manufacturing CMT = Cost of manufacturing with trimming C & F = Cost (FOB) & Freight CIF = Cost (FOB), insurance & Freight
Formula for Change from Tex to Count or, Count to Tex
Tex =
Count =
Sewing Tread consumption
Lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 3 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch ( 3 tread) Over lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 15 inch ( 4 tread) Over lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 18 inch ( 5 tread) Flade lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch ( 3 tread)
AQL = Acceptable Quality level
Import Export
1. Master L/C copy2. Back to back L/C
1. Inspection certificate2. Bill of Landing
WARP = Worldwide responsible apparel production
