Menu December 2010

THEDAILYPOSTFOOD&DRINKGUIDE

A Christmas crackerMarcoPierreWhiteonhowtocreatetheperfect festivemeal

December 2010

menumenu

THEWORLDONAPLATEWINECOLUMNHOMECOOKINGATITSBEST

A true Italian experience

SERVING THE BEST IN ITALIAN FOOD

48a Castle Street, Liverpool • Tel: 0151 236 3375Fax: 0151 236 7260 • www.baritalialiverpool.com

Franco’s RistoranteWhere Italians love to eat

Also available forBusiness Lunches • Birthdays • • Parties • Celebrations • Office FunctionsMonday to Friday 11.30am-3.00pm • Tuesday to Saturday 5.30-11.00pm

Bar ItaliaRestaurant issituated at

48a Castle Streetin the heart of

Liverpool.

Open daily forlunch and dinner- until 11pm on

Saturdays

Opening TimesBar Italia is open six days of

the week:Monday-Friday: 11.30am to 3.00pm

Tuesday-Saturday: 5.30pm to 11.00pm

CHRISTMAS FAYRELUNCH

EGG MAYONNAISEOR

HOME MADE VEGETABLE SOUPROAST TURKEY

ORLASAGNE

ORSALMON SAMBUCA

SEASONAL VEGETABLESCHOICE OF SWEETS

£19.95COFFEE AND MINTS £2.10

EXTRA

CHRISTMAS FAYREDINNER

SEAFOOD COCKTAILOR

EGG MAYONAISSEOR

HOME MADE VEGETABLE SOUPROAST TURKEY

SALMON SAMBUCAENTRECOTE STEAK CHASSEUR

ORANY PASTA OF YOUR CHOICESEASONAL VEGETABLES

CHOICE OF SWEETS

£22.95COFFEE AND MINTS £2.10

EXTRA

Why not book your New Years Eveparty at Bar Italia with karaoke

& disco and open til late.CAll Franco for further details

Mr. Franco Colangeli...and his team warmly invitesyou book your Christmas fayre in his superb ItalianRestaurant, enjoy the finest of Italian cuisine ortraditional English Fayre. Attentive service,beautiful setting and a glowing atmosphere.

Ciao a Presto FRANCO

DAILY POST Tuesday, December 14, 20102

3Tuesday, December 14, 2010

PerfectiononaplateWorriedaboutgettingyourfestivefoodright?EmmaJohnsongetssometipsfromcelebritychefs

MarcoPierreWhite'sChristmasturkey

Celebrity chef MarcoPierre White with hisperfectly cookedturkey, roast potatoesand trimmings

THE youngestchef ever to beawarded threeMichelin stars(at the age of 33),

Marco Pierre White waslauded by critics for hisintricate creations beforehe notoriously returnedhis stars in 1999 andretired from his kitchen.

He came to the NorthWest in February, taking onThe Swan Inn, in Aughton,and his Marco PierreWhite Steakhouse Bar andGrill is set to open inLiverpool in spring, 2011.

For the famous kitchenfirebrand, only one birdworks on the Christmastable. It has to be turkey.

“When I was a child, weused to have turkey onChristmas Day like manyfamilies – it always hadthat sense of occasion andtasted delicioussurrounded by all thosetrimmings,” says theLeeds-born chef.

“No other birdencapsulates the Christmasspirit or creates thatfeeling of excitement onthe family table.”

Below, he offers up hisown recipe for getting itjust right (that’s it on thecover).

“I COOK pretty much every year,”says Jamie Oliver, who opened hisJamie’s Italian in Liverpool One thissummer.

“I either do it all or I share it withmum. Christmas is all about roastpotatoes, killer gravy and greatturkey – and if you get that right,then you won't fail,” says the cheekychappy chef.

“My favourite dish is probably mymum's retro trifle. It's a little bitboozy, with layers and layers ofdifferent blancmanges, jellies,sponges and grated chocolate - it'slike a Damien Hirst art piece!

“I've also done both turkey andgoose for the last four years, andnow no one can do without them.They go really well together. You cando the goose the day before, strip offthe meat, put it in an earthenwaredish then heat it up the next day,almost like a confit of duck. It doesn'tclog up your oven and it's reallytender. I do it every year now, likeclockwork.

“The trick with Christmas is to getorganised. Fifteen minutes of notewriting is all you need. Then get ridof anything that turns your kitcheninto your front room, put it under thestairs, and get your kitchen back!”

PRE-HEAT your oven to190°C/Gas Mark 5 for aconventional oven or170°C for a fan assistedoven (please note that allcooking appliances vary inperformance. For bestresults, refer tomanufacturer'shandbook).

■ If using a frozen turkey,ensure it's properlydefrosted before you cookit. Once thawed, removeturkey from thepackaging.

■ Remove the giblets andneck if not already done

so, and store separately ina covered container in therefrigerator until you'reready to make the gravy.

■ I advise cooking thestuffing separately, but ifyou wish to stuff yourturkey, make sure youplace the stuffing in theneck end only. For every500g of stuffing used,increase the total cookingtime by 10 minutes.

■ If cooking an unbastedturkey, brush the skinwith melted butter or oil,if desired, and coverloosely with foil, making

sure the thighs are wellcovered to preventovercooking. Also basteregularly during cooking.

■ If cooking a BernardMatthews Farms GoldenNorfolk Turkey which isself-basting, there's noneed to brush with oil orbutter, or baste duringcooking. Simply coverwith foil.

■ Next, place your turkeyin the roasting tin androast in a pre-heatedoven, following theguidelines on thepackaging or use my

menuchef’s table

BORED of Cosmos and Caiprinhasand looking for a new cocktail toadd to your party repertoire? Thenwhy not try one of these fabulousconcoctions from Mike “Bill”Williams at the Red DoorNeighbourhood Bar and Kitchen, inWest Kirby.

THE TOBLERONE TUMBLER

Ingredients

22.5ml of Frangelico HazelnutLiqueur.22.5ml of Brown Cacao (a chocolateliqueur)25ml of half n' half – half n' half ismilk and cream in equal quantitiesmixed together

To make:Mix together and then serve in aRocks glass, a small squatthick-based glass with ice andgarnish it with a cheeky chunk ofthe Toblerone chocolate bar.

THE VERY MERRYWINTER BERRY WARMER

Ingredients

1 Blackberry1 Raspberry3 Red currants7.5ml L/G (lemon juice and sugarsyrup mix)30ml of Russian Standard vodka10ml of Chambord Black RaspberryLiqueur

To make:Mix all of the ingredients together,top up with hot water and serve in atea glass with a cinnamon stick andthe red currant garnish. Move over,Pimms, there’s a new wintercocktail in town.

WITCHES BREW

Ingredients45ml of Antica Formula10ml of Haymans London Dry Gin15ml of Creme de Mure[blackcurrant flavoured liqueur]5ml of L/G75ml Lemonade

To make:All ingredients, except thelemonade, are poured straight into aCollins glass (an 8 to 12 ouncenarrow tumbler) with ice. Then it istopped up with the lemonade andgarnished with half a strawberry, alemon and orange slice and a mintsprig.handy “turkey timer”

which can be found atwww.bernardmatthewsfarms.com

■ Remove the foil for thefinal 30-40 minutes ofcooking time, to allow theskin to brown and crisp.Also, warm up the servingdish you will be placingyour turkey on.

■ To ensure your turkey iscompletely cooked, insert aclean skewer into thethickest part of the thigh.When cooked, the juicesshould run clear. If pinkish,return to the oven and

cook for a little longer,then re-test.

■ Once you're happy yourturkey is completelycooked, carefully transferit to your warm servingdish and allow the turkeyto rest for 30 minutesbefore carving. This allowstime for the juices tocome to the surface,making the meat moistand succulent.

■ Remember to washyour hands before andafter handling rawpoultry, and to clean thework surfaces.

AthomewithJamie

Festivetreats

4 Tuesday, December 14, 2010

WeallknowverywellwhatweBritstraditionallyeatatChristmas–butwhatabouttherestoftheworld?

chef’s table

AtasteofChristmasaroundtheworldC

HRISTMAS in Cuba is a stickyand spicy affair, if this recipefrom Alma de Cuba head chefSteve Finn is anything to go by.And, as it is still essentially a

turkey dinner, it may be one you would liketo try yourself come December 25.

Roast spiced breast of turkey with Havanarum gravy (will easily feed 10 )

Ingredients:

1 x 2.5kg turkey breast boned and rolled(butterflied – lay the breast on the skin sidedown and cut an incision into the breastunderneath the breast fillet, as this will enableyou to have an equally thick piece of turkeymeat),125gm unsalted softened butter,1 dspn saltfreshly milled pepper4 dspn hot smoked spice paprika10 large fresh sage leavesEnough water to flood the bottom of theroasting traySilicon paper and tin foil

Method

(pre-heat your oven to 180°C)

1. Lay a sheet of the silicon paper large enoughto wrap around the entire turkey onto a flatclean surface. Smear with half the quantity ofsoftened butter.2. Generously season with salt, pepper andhalf the hot smoked paprika.

3. Lay the butterflied turkey breast skin sidedown onto the silicon baking parchment, againsmear the turkey flesh with the remainingbutter and season liberally with the salt,pepper and paprika.4. Fold the turkey back into its normal formand tightly wrap in the baking parchment.5. Tear a double layer of tin foil large enoughto wrap round the entire turkey breast, placethe silicon paper wrapped breast onto the foiland roll into a tight log shape. Secure the endsof the tin foil by twisting tightly to ensure nojuices are able to escape.6. Place the wrapped turkey breast onto a wirerack inside a roasting tray and flood thebottom of the tray with water.7. Place into a pre-heated oven and roast forapprox one to one-and-a-half hours. Turkeymust have a core temperature above 75°C andfor its juices to be clear when checked.

Havana Rum gravy (makes a litre)

Ingredients

3 dspn of oil olive oil

2 x 70gm shallots banana (peel and slice intothin rings)4 cloves of fresh garlic (peel, crush and finelychop)30gm fresh thyme4 dspn redcurrant jelly100ml golden Havana rum1.5 litres veal jus (or a very good supermarketalternative)2 dspn salt30ml balsamic vinegar500ml red wine1 pepper fresh milled

Method

1. Heat a saucepan large enough to take theentire sauce recipe over a medium flame2. Add olive oil then sliced shallots and crushedgarlic and season lightly with salt. Reduce heatand gently sweat down for approx 5 to 8minutes or until shallots are soft and clear.3. Turn up heat and add balsamic vinegar andredcurrant jelly. Reduce by three quarters.4. Add the rum, flame off the alcohol andreduce by three quarters. Add the red wine andagain reduce by three quarters, scraping anyresidue from the bottom of the pan.5. Add fresh thyme and the pre-heated veal jus,bring to boil and reduce to desired consistencythen pass through a fine sieve.6. Serve two slices of spiced turkey breast perperson with vegetables such as Brussel sprouts,chantenay carrots, roast potatoes and, ofcourse, all the Christmas trimmings.

Japan – whole roasted teriyaki chicken

CHRISTMAS is popularly celebratedin Japan, even though most of thepopulation isn't Christian.

At home, popular Christmasdinner dishes change slightlyyear-by-year, but usually roastchicken or fried chicken and aChristmas cake are included. Thisrecipe is from head chef GirishGopalakrishnan, at Japaneserestaurant Sakura, Liverpool citycentre

Ingredients:

1 whole chicken1tsp of grated garlicLarge pot of boiling water with 4 tbspsalt dissolvedteriyaki sauce to baste (see recipebelow)

Method

1. Using trussing string, hold thechicken over the boiling water andbathe it with the salted water outsideand inside.2. Place the chicken on an oven rackand refrigerate for 3 hours to dry the skin out.3. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the oventray with the chicken in the oven and roastuntil the skin starts to colour.4. Baste with the teriyaki sauce mixed withgrated garlic. Repeat the process a few times.5. Serve with steamed sprouts tossed in soysauce and butter.

Teriyaki sauce

2 Tbsp sake (rice wine)4 Tbsp soy sauce4 Tbsp mirin (sweet rice wine)2 Tbsp sugargrated gingerMix all ingredients and bring to boil. Do notreduce.

RR EEE SSS TTTTTT AA UUUUUU RRRRR AAAAA NN TF i n e s t C h i n e s e & T h a i C u i s i n e

Te l : 0151 649 9888 www.sungres taurant . co .uk

46 Conway Stree t B i rkenhead 0151 649 9888446666 CConway S

All you can Eat Buffetfor yourfor your

Christmas Celebration

On the Thursday 16th December at 5.30pm we have A Lion Dance and Kung-Fu Demonstration and Noodle Making Show to launch our New Live Noodle BarThe Noodle Bar will feature Master Chef cooking your meal in full view. We have Stir fried noodles

with meat base of your choice and Noodle Soup with different meat base,Charcoal Grill and Tampayaki for your full and total enjoyment.

Book early for your Christmas Party or any Celebration in our FreeFunction Room and Free private Karaoke Rooms for the party of your life.

The Staff and Management of Sung Restaurant wish all ourCustomers a Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year.

FOOD IS FRESHLY PREPARED DAILYFOOD IS FRESHLY PREPARED DAILYOver 100 authentic Chinese, Thai, Japanese andOver 100 authentic Chinese, Thai, Japanese andTraditional English dishes throughout DecemberTraditional English dishes throughout December

and New Year.w Yew Year.

OPENING TIMES FOR CHRISTMASOPENING TIMES FOR CHRISTMAS

LUNCH BUFFETLUNCH BUFFETMon - Sat 12pm-4pm

Adult £5.50 Child £2.75.(Including Xmas Eve

& New Year)

CHRISTMAS GRAND BUFFETCHRISTMAS GRAND BUFFETMon - Thurs 5pm-10pmAdult £9.50 Child £4.75Fri - Sat 5pm-10pm

Adult £10.50 Child £5.25.

(Including Xmas Eve & New Year)

CHRISTMAS FAMILY BUFFETCHRISTMAS FAMILY BUFFETon Sunday All Day 12pm-10pm

Adult £8.50 Child £4.25

All babies and children under2 years old eat Free

Please Book Early For Assure Seating.


IN ITALY, Christmas Eve is avery important occasion.Traditionally it was treatedlike Good Friday whenpeople would shun meatahead of the festivecelebrations. Although thisis not observed as strictlynow, a Christmas Evedinner is likely to featurefish, sometimes asmany as seven fishdishes.

Often known asthe seven-fishdinner, it may startwith antipastifollowed by a roastfish dish such asroast sea bass, andalmost certainlysome baccala – saltcod.

Here is Gustohead chef SebastianPolakowski’s recipe forstuffed salt baked sea bass

To make the stuffing:

Ingredients:

4 sea bass gutted – withscales on and head and tailsoff4 pieces of roasted fennel1 large orange4 seven-inch wooden skewers.TIP: Leave scales on or fish

will be too salty.

Method:

Top and tail the orange andcut into eight wedges. Placethe roasted fennel and twopieces of orange into the seabass cavity and secure withthe skewer. Leave in fridge

for two hours.

For the sea bass:

Ingredients:

4 stuffed sea bass1 fresh lemon250ml water in a spray bottleto mist over the salt4kg rock saltroll of aluminium foil, ametal baking tray 4cm deepand a fish slice. TIP: Don’t

make this dish too far inadvance or the fish will gosalty.

Method:

1. Line the baking tray withthree sheets of foil, ensure ithangs over the edge by 3cmall round and cover the base

of the baking traywith rock salt, approx1cm thick.2. Lay the sea bass ontop and pour the restof the salt over thefish ensuring it iscompletely covered,spray a light mist ofwater over the salt.Place the baking trayin a hot oven approx200ºc and bake forapprox 25 mins.3. To check fish is

cooked, pierce through thesalt and into the fish with asmall knife and check thefish is hot by its back bone.4. Lift the foil out of the trayand place the salt cake on aserving dish. Now, using theback of a spoon, gently hitthe salt to break it.5. Clear the salt off the fishand lift out of the salt withthe fish slice, place on theplate and serve.

You mightlike to try thisspicy andwarmingalternative toa traditionalChristmasroast – aCuban roastdinner, fromAlma De Cuba

Italy – stuffed salt baked sea bass

menu

AtasteofChristmasaroundtheworld Brazil – Deliciade Manga

DELICIA de Manga is traditionally eaten atChristmas because it’s around that time that allthe tropical fruit becomes ripe and tastes best.Brazilians eat cold desserts because of the hotweather, unlike us who need warm custard andbrandy to keep us from freezing.

Ingredients (serves 8)

4 large, ripe mangoes1.5l water1 tin condensed milk1 tin double cream (measure from the condensedmilk tin)4 tbsp milk powder

Method

1. In a large pan, place the water and threewhole mangoes (skin on) and boil them untillight brown in colour.2. Let them cool down then peel, chop and blendmangoes.3. Without stopping the blender, add thecondensed milk, double cream and milk powder,until a creamy, smooth consistency is achieved.4. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve.5. Cover the bottom of a glass with theremaining sliced mango, then top it with themango cream and set it in the fridge overnight.

■ PREPARED by: Viva Brazil’s Sous Chef, AnnaMartins.

ChristmasDay£65 per head,which includes a 4 course mealand entertainment….Book now to avoiddisappointment

Saturday 4th Decemberuntil Sunday 19th December10am – 9pm most weekends & 3pm – 9pm mid weekIce Rink Prices£4.00Children (under 16’s) - £6.00 for AdultsSanta’s Grotto Prices£3.50Lucky dip present - £4.50Wrapped present

Kemps Bistro will be open until 9pm,serving hot food and hot drinks.(Santa will only be available up until 8pm each day for visits)

THE ISLA GLADSTONE CONSERVATORYstanley park anfield road liverpool l4 0td

telephone: 0151 263 0363 [email protected] www.theislagladstone.co.uk

A WinterWonderlandA Winter

Wonderland

CallNo

w

toBook!

Get into the spirit at the Isla Gladstone,with our Ice Rink & Santa’s Grotto


BacchusTaverna

SimplythebestatBacchusJadeWrightsamplessimplehomecookingatitsbestatBacchusTaverna,ontheedgeofthebusinessdistrict

Bacchus Taverna, on the Dock Road, serves excellent, unpretentious traditional Greek food

Bacchus Taverna, 14,Waterloo Rd, LiverpoolCall: 0151 255 1661

Opening Hours: Mon -Sat 4.30-midnight, Sun2-10pm

Visit: www.bacchustaverna.co.uk

Service: Verywelcoming and attentive.

Food: Delicious freshproduce cooked with love

Value: Good,particularly given thequality of the ingredients

menu eatingout

I’VE lost count of the amountof restaurants that have comeand gone while I’ve beendoing this job. When theeconomic boom was at its

peak, it seemed anyone who wasanyone was opening up arestaurant.

In a flurry of press launches andcelebrity parties, these big, bright,flashy restaurants roared success.With private dining areas, VIP barsand doormen guarding the way in,more than places simply to eat, theywere places to see and to be seen.

But now, as quickly as theyarrived, they’ve begun shutting upshop.

It seems that keeping a restaurantopen through the good times and thebad relies on more than just clevermarketing, a smattering of celebrityclients and a central location.

Thinking about it, most of myfavourite places to eat aren’t on themain drag. They’re not the brightlylit chrome and glass palaces, they’rehidden away little eateries, off thebeaten track, where the food is moreimportant than the guest list.

Take Bacchus Taverna, tuckedbetween Liverpool’s convertedwarehouses on the Dock Road, in thesite made famous by Frank’s Cafe.

It doesn't look madly promisingfrom the road – sitting in the shadowof Toys R Us and blocks of yuppieflats – but it's spacious inside, withplaces to park right on the doorstep,and sitting under vines, looking atthe seascapes and listening to thesound of bazoukis in thebackground, you could easily feellike you have been transported awayto Athens.

The owner, Diamond, knows athing or two about food: he hadRenos's Taverna, on York Street, for16 years and has become a wellestablished restaurant owner withinLiverpool.

The menu is a love song to hisnative Greek national dishes andthey are done very well.

There are dishes for the moreadventurous diner – like garides stinsxara (£6), a starter of king prawnsin their shells, charcoalgrilled served withgarnish – but thetaramasalata (£4) sellslike crazy, because it'ssuperb.

My boyfriend is such afan that he ordered it as asecond starter, alongsidedolmadakia (£5.50),stuffed vine leaves filledwith tender mincemeat,rice and fresh herbs.

One of the most authentic disheson the menu, he loved the soft andjuicy leaves, and the rice inside,

beautifully flavoured with lemon.Keen to savour the excellent produce,I opted for the simple-soundingGreek Salad (£6), which was packed

full of tomatoes, olivesand the best feta I’ve everhad.

It was listed as a starteror a side dish, but was sosubstantial I was worriedI wouldn’t have any roomfor my main course.

Thankfully, with thearomas of so many superbdishes wafting from theopen plan kitchen, Ireasoned that I could

happily manage my main course ofvegetarian moussaka (£13.50).

It was one of six vegetarian maincourses, which made a refreshing

change. In most restaurants, there’sone or two choices, grudginglyoffered, and one of them is alwaysgoat’s cheese, which is, at best, anacquired taste.

My boyfriend had chosen thekleftiko psito (£13.50), the housespeciality of a large piece ofslow-cooked Welsh lamb shoulder,served with rice, roast potatoes andgreen beans.

He was delighted with his choice.The meat was wonderfully tender,and beautifully seasoned. It fell apartalmost before he could get it off hisfork.

I was equally impressed with mymoussaka, which was creamy andpacked with flavour. Again, it was alarge portion, but so delicious that Icouldn’t leave a morsel.

Both dishes went well with a bottleof Chilean Casillero del DiabloMerlot (£16.50).

To finish, we shared a fruit salad(£3) and some Greek yoghurt withGreek honey (£3.50).

Both simple dishes, they showedoff the excellent produce. Inparticular, the melon was beautifullysweet, and the huge oranges packedwith flavour.

Sitting back with a pair ofcappuccinos (£2.50), we reflected onan excellent meal.

Everything had been freshly madeto order (there’s an open kitchen soyou can watch your food beingcooked) and of impressively highquality, in a simple but well-executedstyle.

Bacchus proudly state that their

vegetables come from local growersand suppliers, but they may as wellhave been plucked straight fromMediterranean soil. Similarly, thefruit was so tasty it could have comestraight from Greek trees.

That’s the benefit of having anexperienced restaurateur buying hisown supplies – he knows how to getthe best to keep standards up.

Mention has to go to the toiletstoo, which are exemplary, and putmost city centre establishments toshame.

All in all, Bacchus has substanceover style. It doesn’t pander to thelatest trends and, while I have seen afew celebrities in there, you aren’tlikely to see a VIP area installed anytime soon. And that’s just why I likeit.

Themenuisa lovesongtohisnativeGreeknationaldishes


bestbarnone

“CAIPIRINHA is a traditionalBrazilian spirit, made with lime,sugar, ice and a spirit calledcachaca,” explained our smilingwaitress.

Being a wholeheartedconvert to the drink some yearsago, I felt like halting herhalfway through thisdescription, but declined,thinking it would be rude tointerrupt her flow.

I discovered the allure of acaipirinha on a holiday to Rioand Praio do Forte two yearsago.

So much so, that I evenbought all the ingredients,some of them online, toconcoct my own version athome for special occasions.

Surely, there is littleargument that the caipirinha isthe king of cocktails, and VivaBrazil takes this one stepfurther.

Whatever flavour you want,this bar has got it: classicstrawberry, cherry,mango, pineapple, orany other fruit thatcomes to mind.

Viva Brazil opened ina blaze of SouthAmerican razzmatazz inLiverpool at the start ofOctober, when a carnivalof samba dancers anddrummers shimmiedthrough the venue.

The nightspotdoubles as a bar and“churrascaria”,effectively a restaurantthat specialises in meat, meatand more meat.

With wrought ironchandeliers, dark wood and redwalls, there’s a definite LatinAmerican feel to Viva.

Sinking into the armchairclose to the semi-circular bar, Icould make out only the topsof the other grand buildingsthat occupy Castle Street.

On the night we visited, Vivawas largely populated withmiddle-aged blokes in suits.

The churrascaria element nodoubt attracts those finishinglate at the office in Liverpool’sbusiness quarter.

It’s certainly an amusingpastime for the drinkers towatch the diners’ eyes lightingup as the carvers stride totables with metal spikes ofevery type of meat available.

You’re given cards, red onone side, green on the reverse,to indicate if you want theflesh to keep coming, or ifyou’re having a break, or

calling time. It’s a good jobthey don’t employ a similarpolicy for the drinks menu, asby the strength of the cocktails,you’d be rolling in the aislesbefore too long.

Drinks are a touch on thepricey side, but you’d probablyexpect that in the top end oftown.

Cocktails will cost you atleast £6, and a decent largeglass of wine won’t give youchange from a fiver.

Frustratingly, there isn’t adesignated cocktail menu andwhile the waiters reel them offimpressively well, it’s hard toremember everything.

The bartenders are skilledand look like they were bornwith a pestle in their hand. Iknow from personal experiencejust how tricky it is to grindthat sugar, lime and icetogether to achieve the perfectlevel of sweetness and kick

Make sure you try the traditional caipirinha cocktails atViva Brazil, on Castle Street Picture: PAUL HEAPS

menuthe wine list

MathewSloane

SO, THE mayhem begins again. Itonly seems like a few weeks ago Iwas back in a wintry Liverpool,dodging the once-a-year party bri-gade in search of a dark and quietroom to enjoy a few glasses withexcellent company.

This year, I shall be spendingChristmas on a tiny, Caribbeanisland, an island that has yet todiscover the hellish cacophony of10,000 twenty-somethingsplastered in tinsel and WKD, clut-tering up the highways withdrunken buffoonery and lasciv-ious intent. There are morechurches than bars on my island,so I shall expect a wonderfulChristmas Eve, lots of singing, theodd glass of sherry, well-wishinga-plenty and the pleasant aromasof roasting turkeys from perfect,candlelit wooden houses. Andthen, amid this overload of pleas-antness, I shall find a willingdrunkard, a flat bit of sand andstart a fight. Because even para-dise needs an edge, and I’m justthe man to provide it.

In order for us to appreciatethose warm cosy nights by the firewith our sweethearts, we need tobe able to hear the faintest soundsof urban chaos in the darkest dis-tance. As we reach for the Cognac,warmed by hearts as much as any-thing more palpable, it comfortsus yet further if a discreet siren isheard in fleet pursuit of a heroicmiscreant. It is this juxtapositionof yin and yang; of love and fear; itis the proximity of BBC2 to thehorrors of X-Factor that makes iteven more a source of wonder. It isthe bite at the end of the kiss thatshocks us into heaven. Ladies andgentleman, might I be so bold asto present Ironstone Zinfandel1998.

Like all things amazing, thisdandy little ninja has its homein Western Australia and is,quite frankly, the bomb.Shouting its way into yourhouse at a mighty 15.5% thisdark destroyer, at first, givesyou a smooch on the cheek, alittle nudge on the neck andthen ravishes the unsuspectinglike a first year student on fresh-ers’ week. As a long time sparringpartner of this outrageous wine, Iam usually well prepared for itscarefree violence.

I make sure I am well furnishedwith a bellyful of fine game andhave some really boss cheese onthe table. I then add some fine

miscreants who can bring gale-force banter at the drop of a shoe.With great care, yet much celerity,the bottle is uncorked and mad-ness will follow, the best kind ofmadness. It’ll turn into one ofthose nights when a gentlemaninforms his friends that he isabout to suggest marriage to somelucky rose and is subsequentlygreeted with a ferocious verbalmauling before duels are sugges-ted, concluded and stag trip plansare made.

This is toughwine to find,persist andglory willprevail –DougieLowe may

be able to help you – [email protected] or you may try thegodfathers of western Aussie winewww.capementelle.com.au whohave released a 2007 Zinfandel thatis equally immense, although per-haps a little more subtle, more likeJames Bond than Jason Bourne.

Legend has it that it’s the greatalchemists at Cape Mentelle whowere responsible for the IronstoneZinny, I shall investigate.

My Christmas gift to you all isthe following advice . . .

Your bartenders, waiters, hosts,doormen, managers, chefs, cooks

and every one else workingfront and back of house willspend the next few weeksdoing everything within their

mighty power to ensure youhave an ace time in theirvenues. It is your duty to

behave, be nice, be all that isgood in the world and, most

importantly tip well, tip out-rageously, tip like it’s your

last day on earth – only thenwill they truly love you,

forever.

Potent Zinfandelwill jingle yourbells this Christmas

from the alcohol. There arealmost 60 different creationsconcocted by Viva’s residentmixologists.

Among the signaturecocktails are a papaya andguava mojito (Bacardi rumbased) and elderflower spicedapple, that once again revolvesaround that most versatile ofLatin spirits, cachaca.

On draught, there’s Amstel,Sagres, John Smiths andGuinness, with bottled lagersCorona, Peroni and theBrazilian Palma Loucha.

Our waitress talked up thetaste of the local brew withsuch fervour that I consideredit only proper to give it a try.

But, if you’re not won overby the wiles of a caparinhawithin a few sips, then youneed to take your taste budsout and ask for a refund.

■ VIVA Brazil, 36, Castle Street,Liverpool L2 0NR.0151 236 8080


Documents

Menu December 2010