Mayors Magazine

MIAMIHEAT

The rebirth of a city of style

SPRING/SUMMER 2015COMPLIMENTARY

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BIRKS&MAYORS MAG-MESSIKA_Double_V2.indd 2 06/03/15 17:04

Precious elasticity ”Skinny Concept

Glamazone Collection

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CLIENT: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

JOB NO.: 10324009-B

SPACE UNIT: 4CB (B: 9.25" W x 11.125" H, T: 9" W x 10.875" H, L: 8.5" W x 10.375" H)

PUBLICATION: BIRKS MAGAZINE - 20151 dag hammarskjold plazanew york, ny 10017-2205212.832.3800www.avrettfreeginsberg.com

APPROVED DATE TRAFFIC/PROOF READER PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR DIRECTOR PRINT SERVICES ART DIRECTOR COPYWRITER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT SUPERVISOR MANAGEMENT SUPERVISOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR CLIENT

Date Created: 3/16/15 Artist: Kevin

Proof: 01 Page: 01

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ART FILE NAME MECH SCALE EFFECTIVE RESOLUTION Ring_Two_Cosmos_Nacre_SWOP.tif 30.6% 980 dpi VCA_N.ai 66.6% Illustrator ai

Between the Finger Ring Graceful Cosmos Ring, pink gold,

mother-of-pearl and diamonds.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

Up f r o n t

IT ’S THRILL ING to � nally introduce the inaugural edition of our magazine. We started dreaming of this publication what seems like ages ago, and it’s great, at last, to be at this stage of the adventure.

We have been busy here at Birks Group. Last year marked the 135th anniversary of Birks, Canada’s leading jeweller and jewellery designer since 1879. We celebrated with the launch of

a new corporate-social-responsibility platform that aims at preserving honeybees.To herald this program with concrete action, we introduced jewellery collections

that support bee research in a partnership with the Honey Bee Research Centre at the University of Guelph. We installed our own beehives on top of our Birks � agship store in downtown Montreal and extracted our � rst batch of honey last summer. In this issue’s “Buzz” section (page 24), you’ll have the chance to read more about the urban beekeeping movement and why it’s important.

� is year is also a key moment for our brand as we celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Amorique diamond, Birks’ pro-prietary design and one that has become a key reference point in the world of engagement rings. Only the � nest Canadian diamonds can become an Amorique—and we delve deep into the process of selecting them in

JE AN C H R ISTOPH E B É DOSPresident and CEO, Birks Group Inc.

9

our “Masters at Work” feature (page 26). You’ll see in the “� e News” (page 19) that we are celebrating the Amorique anniversary with

something very unique, a design that is a true testament to our jewellers’ master cra� smanship. Speaking of cra� smanship,

we have also been working with our jewellery and time-piece partners to continue bringing you the � nest of the world’s designs—including brands such as Cartier and Breitling, now available in Canada and at many of our Mayors stores in Florida; the new and fresh French line Messika; and the iconic Place Vendôme

maison Van Cleef & Arpels, which we continue to host exclusively at our Toronto and Vancouver � agship

stores. Please enjoy discovering the world of Birks and Mayors as you look through this debut issue. Over time, I hope, this will become your most indispensi-ble magazine about jewellery, timepieces and style.

A WORD FROM OUR CEO

� e Birks Bee Chic Silver Pendant helps support honeybee research

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Upfront

16ALL THAT GLITTERS

Celebrities and jewellery houses are making bold moves. � e latest look at who’s wearing what

19THE NEWS

� e best in luxury watches, a diamond anniversary, rockin’ pearls and Beyoncé’s Parisienne jeweller

22THE HOT L IST

If it’s cool, it’s hot: from a Swiss restaurateur with a Nicaraguan crash pad to a UK hotel with a Texan

bowling alley

24THE BUZZ

Flying through the sky and diving to the ocean’s depths: our latest extracurricular activities

26MASTERS AT WORK

Alain Marcel, Birks’ atelier director, deconstructs the � ne cra� of jewellery making

Jewel ler y & Timepieces

31FLYING COLOURS

From fancy yellows to shade-shi� ing greens and the so� est of pinks, the colours of the rainbow

permeate this season’s best gems

36NICE ICE

Whether solitaire or multiple, diamonds like these deserve some serious attention

40FANCY FACES

� e latest crop of women’s watches come adorned with watercolour shades and miniature works of art

43IT ’S COMPLICATED

But that’s a good thing. When it comes to men’s watches, complications are the extra-special

details that set them apart

Aesthete

46OBJECTS OF DESIREFive beautiful new items that will surprise, delight and amaze you

48THE AUTO EVOLUTION� e new self-driving car from Mercedes-Benz is proof that in the future, getting there will be more than half the fun

50GOLDEN GIRLTrendsetter Laure Heriard Dubreuil deconstructs her personal style

Compass

56MY CARTAGENACelebrity stylist Irma Martinez makes the case for her romantic—and trendy—hometown

64THE REBIRTH OF MIAMI COOLArt is adding new life to the restaurants, hotels and galleries of this sunny Florida city

Palate

70THE BOUNTY OF BORDEAUXInternationally renowned sommelier Andreas Larsson dishes on the region’s best winemakers

74PERUVIAN REVOLUTIONWhether it’s mashed up with Asian, European or Incan cuisine, food from Peru is coming for you

Final Cut

78LOVE, L IZ TAYLOR STYLEElizabeth Taylor may have had seven husbands and eight marriages, but jewellery was her greatest passion

CONTENTS

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70

On the cover � e Yabu Pushelberg–designed

St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort in Miami.Photo courtesy the St. Regis Bal Harbour

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P O I S M O I C O L L E C T I O N

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THE SALON INTERNATIONAL de la Haute Horlogerie, held in Geneva, is the marquee event for the luxury-timepiece industry—the annual showcase of the world’s newest and � nest designs. At this year’s salon, we were introduced to a � rst: an ingenious timepiece that pairs wearable tech-nology with traditional Swiss watchmaking. Created by Montblanc, the watch o� ers all the beautiful complications and features—the appanage of the Swiss masters—along with a device that connects to your smartphone, allows you to send texts, scan social media and monitor your heart rate. You’ll see the innovative TimeWalker on page 19, along with four other beautiful pieces unveiled in Geneva by Cartier, Panerai, Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC.

To me, these creations are proof that our industry, while deeply rootedin tradition, is also in constant change. In fact, jewellery designers are always pushing the envelope, as evidenced by Valérie Messika (page 20),the young dynamo behind her own eponymous line. I had the pleasureof sitting down with Valérie in her lovely new St-Honoré boutique in Paris. We talked about Beyoncé and Rihanna’s favourite pieces from her collection, and about how women around the world shop for jewellerytoday. � ey’re not waiting for a man to buy baubles for them anymore. (Beyoncé, incidentally, also loves our Birks Bee Chic honeycomb ring, as you can see on page 16.)

Designers and artists across all industries are making a di� erence in bold new ways. In this issue, Miami-based celebrity stylist Irma Martinez (page 56) takes us on a tour of her hometown, Cartagena, and its burgeoning creative

set of chefs, fashion designers and store owners. You can also peek inside the world of Laure Heriard Dubreuil (page 50), who has taken Miami’s fashion scene by storm with the opening of her it-boutique, � e Webster. Finally, master sommelier Andreas Larsson takes us through the best of Bordeaux, where talented young winemakers are shaking up the establishment.

In this debut issue of the magazine, we bring you many more change-makers and personalities who are leading their own small cultural revolu-tions. We hope you enjoy meeting them as much as we did.

EVA HARTLING

Editorial Director and Vice President, Marketing and Communications, Birks Group

A WORD FROM OUR EDITORIAL D IRECTOR

Above: our 10th-anniversary Amorique diamond engagement ring (page 20)

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1954 OVER 60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION

Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of TUDOR’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. Over 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case.Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more. TUDOR Watch U.S.A., LLC. New York ®

REBECCA KLEINMANAs a 15-year resident of Miami, Rebecca Kleinman has enjoyed a front-row seat to the overnight transformation of the city’s skyline and cultural o� er-ings. “Miami used to be a sleepier place with many nondescript buildings, and it cleared out in summer. But it’s done a 180,” says Kleinman, who writes

HAMIN LEEPhotographer Hamin Lee has worked on a wide range of projects for major fashion and business pub-lications including Globe Style Advisor, FASHION, Canadian Business, Report on Business and Pro� t. His diverse commercial cli-ents include P� zer, CIBC, GM and Capital One. On shooting “Flying Colours”

AMY VERNERJournalist Amy Verner covers fashion, art and other aesthetic miscellany from Paris. Her byline can be found in Wallpaper*, Canadian House & Home, Flare, Business of Fashion, Style.com and the Wall Street Journal. In this issue, Verner writes about � ve beautifully designed objects of desire (page 46)

ADRIAN ARMSTRONGToronto photographer Adrian Armstrong has a decade of experience working with publications such as FASHION, Sharp, S Magazine, Flare, the Kit and the Globe and Mail and with clients like Ford, the Bay, Danier Leather and David’s. Armstrong’s still-lifes of timepieces start on page 40. “It’s always a

about Miami’s year-round bustling art and design scene on page 64. “Now I feel sorry for other cities.”Kleinman’s work has appeared in Architectural Digest, Travel + Leisure and Departures.

(page 31), he says, “to see such meticulous cra� s-manship up close is truly inspiring. It’s astounding to consider the amount of work required for some of these pieces.” Lee lives in Toronto with his fami-ly—“my amazing wife and four sweet but crazy boys.”

and pro� les style maven Laure Heriard Dubreuil (page 50). Verner o� en spots Heriard Dubreuil � itting from show to show during Paris Fashion Week. “� ere’s an unmistakable joie de vivre to her style,” she says. “It’s like a sixth sense.”

pleasure to shoot subjects that are so luxuriously beautiful,” he says. “� is goes for all photography—landscapes, models, or in this case, gorgeous time-pieces.” Adrian’s work has won National Magazine Awards and has been fea-tured on the coveted cover of Applied Arts magazine.

EDITORIALEditorial Director Eva HartlingEditor Tralee PearceManaging Editor Pat Lynch

ARTCreative Director Nevien AzzamArt Director Noam LamdanPhoto Editor Liz IkirikoSenior Designer Ruth AlvesAssociate Photo Editor Christie Vuong

CONTRIBUTORSAdrian Armstrong, Eden Boileau, Michelle Burca, Sarah Casselman, Andrew Clark, � e Coveteur, Jacquelyn Francis, Nicola Hamilton, Meileen Son Hing, Rebecca Kleinman, Hamin Lee, Vincent Lions, Irma Martinez, Mary Luz Mejia, Daniel Onori, Rita Remark, Carlyle Routh, Mercedeh Sanati, Amy Verner, Maya Visnyei

ST. JOSEPH MEDIA for 1879 by Birks and Mayors MagazinePublisher Douglas KellyEditorial Director, Special Projects Maryam SanatiEastern General Manager, Advertising Sales Bettina Magliocco

PRODUCTIONProduction Director Maria MendesCoordinator/Designer Alexandra EganPre-press Coordinator Jonathan Gault

BIRKS GROUP INC. President and CEO Jean-Christophe BédosVP, Marketing and Communications Eva HartlingDirector, Mayors Marketing Linda SchultesDirector, Birks Coop Marketing Amanda Di PardoManager, Birks Brand Marketing Christina MaselliManager, Public Relations Francis Guindon

ST. JOSEPH MEDIA EXECUTIVEChairman Tony GaglianoPresident Douglas KnightGeneral Manager and Vice-President, Finance Karl PercyVice-President, Digital Duncan ClarkVice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene StoreySenior Vice-President Lil Lozinsk

CONTACT USFor editorial inquiries, please call St. Joseph Media at (416) 364-3333.For advertising opportunities, please call Bettina Magliocco at (514) 284-2552 ext. 229.

1879 by Birks is named a� er the year Birks was founded. Along with Mayors Magazine, it is published by St. Joseph Media on behalf of Birks Group. © 2015. All rights reserved. Contents may not be reprinted without written consent of Birks Group. Printed in Canada by St. Joseph Printing.

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THE KWIAT COBBLESTONE COLLECTION

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

A diamond snake curving down Naomi Watts’s neck. Dior clusters

on Rihanna’s wrists. Celebrities and jewellery houses alike are

making bold moves. Shrinking violets need not apply.

1 Naomi Watts in Buglari. 2 Kiesza in Birks Rock & Pearl collection. 3 Margot Robbie in a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. 4 Cheryl Cole in de Grisogono earrings. 5 Rihanna in Dior bracelets. 6 Marion Cotillard in a Chopard necklace. 7 Scarlett Johansson in Bulgari. 8 Beyoncé in a Birks Bee Chic ring. 9 Salma Hayek in Boucheron earrings. 10 Julianna Margulies in Van Cleef & Arpels. 11 Naomi Watts in Bulgari earrings.

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Miami • Ft. Lauderdale • Boca Raton • Palm Beach • Orlando • Tampa • Sarasota • Atlanta

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� e latest in luxury timekeeping, a diamond anniversary, a peek at the new Rock & Pearl collection and a chat with Beyoncé’s Parisienne jeweller

T H E N E W S

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5 SHOW TIMEEvery year, the world’s most exclusive maisons gather in Geneva—the birthplace of watch-making—for the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie, a watch fair that’s the horologist’s equivalent of the Cannes Film Festival. � is is where the hottest new timepieces from luxury brands such as Cartier, Montblanc and Van Cleef & Arpels make their debut, dazzling jewel-lers, cra� smen and the press before they move out into the real world. We put the spotlight on � ve of this year’s future stars.PH

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1 � e Montblanc TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap Fine cra� smanship meets high tech: � e e-Strap connects via Bluetooth to Android and iOS smartphones so that you can keep on top of messages with a twist of the wrist. At Birks and Mayors

2 Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech� e new Luminor Submersible adds lightweight, durable carbon � bre into the mix, proving that function needn’t come at the expense of form.At Birks and Mayors

3 Clé de CartierCartier steps away from the square and rectangular shapes of its iconic lines for something simpler: the minimalist elegance of a circle.At Birks and Mayors

4 IWC Portugieser “75th Anniversary” editionA celebration of the iconic Portugieser, the anniversary edition adds a date display —a modern touch to a classic face.At Mayors

5 Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas SertieIn 1935, some felt it inelegant for a woman to wear a watch. � e Cadenas, designed to look like a bracelet, thought other-wise. Times have changed—thankfully, great style hasn’t.At Birks

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ANNIVERSARY PARTYIt’s been 10 years since Birks unveiled its Amorique Diamond. To celebrate, the company has created the new anniversary edition ring in a vintage � oral shape. � e Amorique made headlines for being the brand’s � rst proprietary diamond. Only master diamond cut-ters can work on the Victorian-era cushion-cut stone because its 70 facets are so technical. � e collection is still produced in a limited but spectacular supply.

ERSARY PARTYyears since Birks unveiled its Amorique

To celebrate, the company has created the annivernew Amoriq� e Apropriet� rst pcan worters cuse its 7becauproducestill p

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ROCKIN’ PEARLSAt Birks’ � agship Montreal boutique, the architectural details that accentuate the front door do more than add style to the building’s exterior—they inspire new ideas. With a nod to details culled from those iconic front doors, the new Rock & Pearl line is Birks’ edgiest silver work to date. Pairing elegant freshwater pearls with sharp accents of silver, the collection includes the elegant cu� pictured here, a double-� nger ring and earrings with pearl jackets—you can see them on pop star Kiesza, the line’s ambassador, on page 16.

Valérie Messika (le� ) has designed jewellery worn by the likes of Rihanna, Kate Moss and Beyoncé. Below, a bracelet from her Gatsby line. At right: Birks’ new Rock & Pearl bracelet. Below, right: Birks’ new anniversary edition Amorique ring

A GEM OF A JEWELLERValérie Messika is the ultimate Parisienne. When she arrives at the recently opened Messika boutique on St-Honoré, steps from Place Vendôme, she’s sporting a casual out� t layered with delicate diamond pieces. She exudes a natural elegance. “I’m not creative,” she protests, explaining that she launched her eponymous line 10 years ago “almost by accident.”

Today, Messika is a worldwide success: � e likes of Rihanna, Karlie Kloss and Kate Moss have been seen wearing the jeweller’s designs, and the company is in the process of opening stores across the Middle East.

As it marks its � rst decade, the line is adding to its core collection of gold and diamond basics, and people are taking notice. When Beyoncé arrived at the Grammys, she was wearing Messika’s new 40-carat Miss Hepburn diamond necklace.

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� e most buzzed-about people and places—from a Swiss restaurateur with a Nicaraguan crash pad to a London hotel with a Texan bowling alley

S p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5

T H E H O T L I S T

HOT HOTEL

Tucked behind London’s Piccadilly Circus, Ham Yard Hotel is a swank place to stay where guests can order up cold-pressed-rooibos gin cocktails, take a� ernoon tea any time they’d like, and while away the hours at a vintage bowling alley that was shipped in from Texas. Co-owner Kit Kemp decorated the interiors in her signature mash-up of colourful prints and patterns, bespoke wallpaper and accents sourced from India and Africa. � e bar and restaurant draws a trendster crowd, and a 190-seat in-house cinema hosts Sunday matinees. � rmdalehotels.com

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HOT BAR

At the Shangri-La hotel in Toronto, a monumental champagne wall adds an air of 1930s-era sophistication to cocktail hour. Award-winning som-melier Mark Mo� att presides over the � oor-to-ceiling bubbly bar, which sits in the lobby lounge. Dom Pérignon, Perrier Jouët and such rare vintages as 1998 Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs are served by the glass and paired with Northern Divine caviar, pâté de cam-pagne and artisanal cheeses. shangri-la.com

HOT IMPRESSARIO

In the mid-’80s, Jean-Marc Houmard moved from Switzerland to New York to train as a lawyer. To pay rent, he got a job as a waiter at Indochine, worked his way up to maître d’, then owner, and now he’s one of the most successful restaurateurs in Manhattan. His portfolio has included Republic, Kittichai, Acme and, more recently, Tijuana Picnic, a modern Mexican cantina on the Lower East Side. One of his latest ventures is far removed from the Big Apple restau-rant scene: Tribal Hotel is a seven-room destination in the colonial town of Gran-ada on Lake Nicaragua. tribal-hotel.com

HOT STYLIST

House of Cards fans may wonder what happened to Claire Underwood’s severe black, white and navy wardrobe. Kemal Harris, Robin Wright’s spot-on personal stylist, is now in charge of her alter ego’s closet, swapping in so� er colours, fuller skirts and a slightly more subdued take on power dressing. All of which means Harris, a native of To� no, British Columbia, is now watching her own power quotient go through the roof. Based in New York, Harris has worked with a host of other A-listers, including Justin Bieber, Lorde, Diane Kruger and Jennifer Lawrence. kemalharris.com

HOT RESTAURANT

At Tuju, a new restaurant in São Paulo’s Vila Madalena district, chef-owner Ivan Ralston sources ingredients from his own roof-top greenhouse to create dishes that weave Brazilian � avours into European recipes—and vice versa. Colour bursts of salads, pastas and pastries are almost too pretty to eat. � e industrial-chic dining room features modernist wood chairs and benches, cus-tom-designed light � xtures by São Paulo-based NeuteChvaicer and minimalist artwork.tuju.com.br

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From � ying in the sky to diving deep beneath the waves, a roundup of our latest extracurricular activities

T H E B U Z Z

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FLIGHT TIMEWhen Breitling created the Navitimer watch in 1952, the brand immediately became synonymous with aviator cool. Combining a chronograph with a circular slide rule that could perform navigation-related

calculations—technology that Breitling had perfected while creating cockpit instruments for WWII � ghter planes—the watch soared into the hearts of pilots and � ight bu� s alike. � at high-� ying connection continues to this day through the Breitling Jet Team. � e squad has performed elite jet aerobatics

in 36 countries, � ying at speeds of up to 700 kilometres per hour (sometimes within three metres of each other) and is poised to touch down in North America for the � rst time in 2015 as part of a 19-city tour. Keep your eyes on the skies.breitling-jet-team.com

t e x t J a c q u e l y n F r a n c i s

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THE BEES NEEDSAcross the globe, there’s a buzz on bees: � eir colonies are in decline and, since they pollinate the plants that feed us, we need to pay attention. So, Birks unveiled a bee-inspired � ne-jewellery line called Bee Chic, with 10 per cent of sales from the silver honeycomb pendant going to the University of Guelph’s Honey Bee Research Centre. � e company also installed three beehives on the roof of its � agship Montreal location to spread the power and potential for urban beekeeping. Sweet, right?

Up f r o n t

WONDER WOMENWhen Achenyo Idachaba quit her corporate job in the United States to move back to her homeland, Nigeria, her family thought she was crazy. It was a leap of faith for Idachaba, who started over as an environmental con-sultant in the city of Ibadan. She soon found that aquatic weeds were chok-ing up Nigeria’s waterways, hamper-ing � shing and clogging transporta-tion networks. Her solution? Harvest the weeds and transform them into handwoven home accessories. Her company, MitiMeth, has since trained people in seven di� erent communi-ties to tackle the work. � at entre-preneurial spirit is what moved the Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards to honour Idachaba with a year of career coaching, a $20,000 cash prize and the promise of future business growth. cartierwomensinitiative.com

For all the glitz and glamour associated with Rolex, the brand’s greatest achievement is highly practical: It invented the water-proof watch. � e 1926 Oyster, with its hermetically sealed case, was a technological breakthrough that forever linked Rolex with underwater adventure. An Oyster made the 10-hour trip across the English Channel with swimmer Mercedes Gleitze in 1927. � en, in 1960, a prototype descended 10,916 metres into the Mariana Trench, a� xed to the hull of the Trieste, a deep-sea submersible. It surfaced working perfectly. A half-century later Rolex returned to the area, this time with director James Cameron on the DeepSea Challenge expedition, part of Rolex’s long-standing commitment to researching the tools used by professionals in extreme conditions. An experimental timepiece came along for the ride on Cameron’s vessel, diving to 10,908 metres. When the submersible surfaced, the Rolex was still ticking—a truly titanic achievement. mayors.com/brands/rolex

Inspired by nature’s cra� sman

and our good friend, the honey-bee, the bold new

Birks Bee Chic collection will

raise more than just eyebrows

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ant going to the University of earch Centre. � e company ives on the roof of its � agship

read the power and potential weet, right?

TheBuzzV9.indd 25 3/17/15 12:33:02 PM

Alain Marcel, atelier director at Birks, deconstructs the � ne cra� of

jewellery making—and celebrates a glittery milestone

o f t h eTHE ART

JEWELLER

p h o t o g r a p h s V i n c e n t L i o n s / s t y l i n g I s a b e l l e H a v a s y g r o o m i n g I s a b e l l a F o r g e t

M A S T E R S A T W O R K

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Marcel casts a keen eye on the 10th-anniversary Birks Amorique diamond engagement ring

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ASK ALAIN MARCEL, master jeweller and atelier director for Birks Group in Montreal, to describe his job and he lands on an analogy. “I’m like a chef in the kitchen,” he says. (Orchestra conductor would be equally apt.)

Marcel presides over an industrious, perpetually busy workshop of artisans, each dedicated to the complex cra� of jewellery making. � at means he’s in non-stop motion—directing, inspecting, mentoring.

� ere is no better man to cast such discerning eyes on the atelier’s work. � e son of a clockmaker in Lyon, France, Marcel studied and apprenticed in the intricacies of jewellery making in his native city before moving to Canada in 1974 at age 23. � ree years later, he was hired at Birks. � e match—a French-trained cra� sman at Canada’s venerated jewellery and watch company—has lasted 38 years.

Marcel is not only maître de la maison when it comes to Birks’ in-house gem setters, he is an excellent tutor for laypeople who want to know what makes a great piece of jewellery—the process of mounting, polishing and setting that in one piece alone can take more than a month to complete.

Diamonds, of course, are selected for their cut, colour and clarity—the famous Cs. “Cut is the most important parameter,” Marcel explains. Each stone is awarded a grade based on its symmetry and its ability to refract light at all of its facets. “It is important to see the light dancing.” � e colour of adiamond is assessed when the stone is found in the ground. It’s graded froma D for a colourless diamond, which is the best in the world, to a Z for a yellowish stone. Birks’ stones are at the top of the range. And clarity is a pa-rameter that a� ects the price of a diamond; the grade is based on how many

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S p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5

defects may be found in the stone when magni� ed. Birks adds another C: Canadian. � e company adheres to the Kimberley Process, a code of conduct that guarantees diamonds are con� ict-free and ethically sourced. Birks certi-� es all centre stones in engagement rings as Canadian, providing consumers with a guarantee of traceability back to the diamond mine. All diamonds sold through Birks are laser-engraved with an individual number so you can track your diamond back to its source.

� at’s a special selling point for one of the company’s most iconic engage-ment-ring series, the Amorique, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year with a limited edition design. � e Amorique, distinguished by its Canadian cushion-cut centre stone, already comes in a variety of styles, from solitaire to pavé. “� e anniversary edition is especially unique and decora-tive,” says Marcel, describing the � oral motif of a centre stone with diamond “petals” surrounding it. � is is the year of the Amorique bloom.

As for his most memorable piece of all time, Marcel describes a 1998 design by Annik Lucier called La Plume de Cyrano—as in Cyrano de Bergerac. A substantial piece, it consisted of more than 350 diamonds including a pear-shaped yellow stone weighing two and a half carats. “� e piece took more than 500 hours to complete,” Marcel explains. “It was mind-breaking. � e challenge was that the designer wanted the branches of the plume to be � exi-ble. We came up with a � shing cable for each branch, attached to the feather’s spine. � e e� ect was that of light movement—as if a breeze was blowing.”

He is wistful about that time. “Creating that piece involved everything a jeweller loves to do.”


Alain Marcel, 38-year veteran of Birks, is the director of the company’s atelier. Here, he mounts, sets and polishes a 10th-anniversary Amorique diamondengagement ring


L I F E I S A B O U T M O M E N T SC E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

PROMESSESTEEL, 34 MM, QUARTZ

69 DIAMONDS

www.baume-et-mercier.com

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S p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5

J E W E L L E R Y & T I M E P I E C E S

p h o t o g r a p h s H a m i n L e es t y l i n g D a n i e l O n o r i

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FANCY YELLOWS, SOFT P INKS AND SHADE-SHIFT ING GREENS BRING A RAINBOW

OF STYLE TO THE SEASON’S BEST GEMS

COLOURSFLYING

ColouredGems.indd 31 3/17/15 4:36:54 PM

PREVIOUS PAGE� e Shanghai

Necklace by Roberto Coin, with more than

325 carats of amethyst, topaz,

citrine and smoky quartz. At Birks

and MayorsTHIS PAGE

Diamond and yellow diamond drop

earrings by Birks. Also at Mayors

RIGHTMagic Alhambra

necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels in malachite

and yellow gold. At Birks.

Two Butter� y earclips by Van Cleef &

Arpels, with yellow sapphires and

diamonds. At Birks

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J e w e l l e r y & Ti m e p i e c e s


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MOOD RINGSRARE DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES

LEFT Haute Couture Cocktail Cluster Ring by Roberto Coin, with diamonds and pink sapphires. At Birks and Mayors

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Birks padparadscha fancy sapphire, fancy-colour chameleon diamond and yellow fancy sapphire. At Birks

Visit Birks.com and Mayors.com

MOOD RINGSRARE DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES

MAKE A STATEMENT IN JUICY HUES

J e w e l l e r y & Ti m e p i e c e s


As solitaires or multiples, diamonds as arresting as these command attention

N I C E I C E

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p h o t o g r a p h C a r l y l e R o u t hs t y l i n g M e i l e e n S o n H i n g / n a i l s R i t a R e m a r k

Engagement RingsV6.indd 36 3/17/15 1:58:10 PM

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NAIL ART GROWS UPSo� shades meet high designA knockout diamond ring demands a worthy manicure. Here, Toronto nail artist Rita Remark says she was going for a feminine design—one that held its own with the high jewel quotient. “Nails should complement the ring,” she says, “but never overpower it.”

Remark pulled two colours from the new Essie bridal collection. � e base is a pale lilac shade called Hubby for Dessert. � e � owers are painted using a “striping” brush dipped in a pale pink, Tying the Knotie.

It’s a far cry from the over-the-top bling and rainbow-bright nail art of recent memory.

“Nail art has reached a period of maturity,” she says. “It’s more wear-able and fashion-forward.”

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra mother-of-pearl watch. At Birks

Birks Eternity diamond platinum band. At Birks and MayorsBirks Canadian cushion-cut pavé diamond ring. At BirksMayors Diamonds cushion-cut ring. At Mayors Birks 1879 Halo Canadian diamond engagement ring. At Birks and Mayors

Birks Pure Desire emerald-cut diamond engagement ring. At BirksBirks pavé diamond 18K white-gold band. At Birks and MayorsNew Birks Amorique Anniversary pavé Canadian diamond platinum ring. At Birks and Mayors

JB Star round brilliant-cut diamond ring edged in pavé. At MayorsMayors Diamonds round brilliant-cut diamond ring with cushion-shape halo. At MayorsMayors Diamonds round brilliant-cut diamond ring with diamond halo. At Mayors

JB Star round brilliant-cut diamond in a pavé halo setting. At MayorsBirks emerald-cut Eternity diamond platinum band. At BirksBirks Square Phillips Canadian princess-cut diamond engagement ring. At BirksBirks Nordic Light solitaire Canadian diamond engagement ring. At Birks and Mayors

LEFT From top to bottom, le� to right: ABOVE From top to bottom, le� to right:


Engagement RingsV6.indd 37 3/17/15 3:18:07 PM

LEX-RF021-M-1 Build: E1 Date: March 13, 2015Docket: LEX15RF021 Production Artist(s): CLClient: LEXUS Art Director: SK ____________

Type Safety: .25 Copywriter: ____________

Trim Area: 18" x 10.875" Production Manager: RB ____________

Bleed: .125" Account Manager: ____________

Colour(s): CMYK Studio Manager: GB ____________

Publication: Birks Due Date: March 16 ___________________

Department Colour:

Proofreader

Creative

Studio

YOU CAN’T OUTRUN ENVY. BUT YOU CAN LAP IT.

THE ALL-NEW 2015 LEXUS RC F `

Introducing the entirely new RC F Coupe from Lexus. With a 5.0-litre, 467 HP V8 housed behind its signature spindle grille, the RC F was born on the track and built from the asphalt up. Discover pure driving excitement at Lexus.ca/RCF AMAZING IN MOTION

Untitled-1 2 15-03-17 9:49 AM

LEX-RF021-M-1 Build: E1 Date: March 13, 2015Docket: LEX15RF021 Production Artist(s): CLClient: LEXUS Art Director: SK ____________

Type Safety: .25 Copywriter: ____________

Trim Area: 18" x 10.875" Production Manager: RB ____________

Bleed: .125" Account Manager: ____________

Colour(s): CMYK Studio Manager: GB ____________

Publication: Birks Due Date: March 16 ___________________

Department Colour:

Proofreader

Creative

Studio

YOU CAN’T OUTRUN ENVY. BUT YOU CAN LAP IT.

THE ALL-NEW 2015 LEXUS RC F `

Introducing the entirely new RC F Coupe from Lexus. With a 5.0-litre, 467 HP V8 housed behind its signature spindle grille, the RC F was born on the track and built from the asphalt up. Discover pure driving excitement at Lexus.ca/RCF AMAZING IN MOTION

Untitled-1 3 15-03-17 9:49 AM

p h o t o g r a p h A d r i a n A r m s t r o n g

Watercolour shades, shimmery mother-of-pearl and miniature works of art adorn the latest crop of women’s watches

A N C Y F A C E S

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

� e Grand Bal Plissé Soleil watch by Dior in steel, mother-of-pearl and diamonds—in a

design that recalls the pleats of a Dior couture gown.

At Birks and Mayors

� e Datejust watch by Rolex, in white gold and steel with a

diamond bezel and pink � oral dial. At Birks and Mayors

� e Butter� y Symphony watch by Van Cleef & Arpels,

in white gold and laquer mother-of-pearl. Butter� ies

move to mark the hours and minutes. At Birks


FancyFacesV5.indd 41 3/17/15 1:42:13 PM

In the world of men’s watches, that’s a good thing— it means exquisite bonus features such as moon calendars and chronographs

IT’SCOMPLICATED

p h o t o g r a p h s A d r i a n A r m s t r o n g s t y l i n g M i c h e l l e B u r c a

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MensWatches7.indd 43 15-03-18 12:10 PM

PREVIOUS PAGE �e Nicolas Rieussec watch by Montblanc in steel, anthracite and alligator, with an automatic movement. At Birks and Mayors

FROM LEFT �e Calibre de Cartier watch in stainless steel and pink gold, with a calendar at 6 o’clock. At Birks and Mayors �e Luminor 1950 Pangaea Depth Gauge watch by Panerai in steel and rubber, with depth gauge on outer dial. At Birks and Mayors �e Bentley B04 GMT watch by Breitling in steel, with silver storm dial. At Birks and Mayors �e Daytona watch by Rolex in everose, with hour, minute and second subdials at 6 o’clock. At Birks and Mayors �e Heart Beat watch by Frederique Constant in steel and alligator, with moonphase. At Birks


S p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5


IT’S NOT THAT COMPLICATED: IN THE WATCHMAKING WORLD, ANY FEATURE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUR AND MINUTE HANDS IS CALLED A COMPLICATION. SIMPLE, RIGHT?

EXPLAINER

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Great design is about ingenuity, functionality, a sense of fun and the element of surprise. Here, � ve new things that check o� all the boxes

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

SEBASTIAN HERKNER’S BELL TABLEOnly in exceptional cases does a designer’s name become fused with the design, like the Eameses and their iconic chair. Sebastian Herkner, based in Germany and only 34, is well on his way. � ese elegant tables, for instance, appear to defy the principals of physics. A delicate bell-shaped base carries the weight of a substantial brass-framed top. Manufacturer ClassiCon continues to in-troduce new base colours, and the latest is an intriguing smoky blue. Herkner says he is always focused on the melding of cra� and form, using the words “honest” and “authentic” to describe his timeless designs. You cannot drop a table like this into a space arbitrarily. But it’s de� nitely a keeper. sebastianherkner.com

PIERRE HARDY WALLET In Paris, you can � nd motifs of patterned cubes in various places—as tiling in specialty boulangeries or as wallpaper in decor shops. But most fashion-minded people associate the in� nite cubes with the e� ortlessly cool accessories of designer Pierre Hardy, who’s made the pattern his trademark. For spring, Hardy has modi� ed his hallmark by overlaying the cubes with a striking lily print. � e e� ect echoes the photo montages of British artists Gilbert & George. And as a wallet, passport holder or pochette, this latest must-have doubles as an artistic statement—“at once natural and arti� cial, a mixture of nature and abstraction,” in Hardy’s own words.estore.pierrehardy.comt e x t A m y Ve r n e r

A E S T H E T E

AmyVernerDesignPicks.indd 46 3/16/15 1:27:08 PM

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A e s t h e t e

ERES SWIMSUITPicture this scenario for a moment: You’re on holiday, somewhere hot and sandy, and you’ve just had an amazing meal, something entirely too rich and decadent. � e next morning comes the realization: You need your swimsuit to cover up the gluttony. Also, you need a swimsuit that will let you go swimming. � e French bathing suit brand Eres is known for its proprietary fabric—a secret blend of density and stretch that will make any silhouette appear slimmer. It’s used to great e� ect in the Paradise Rainbow Plunge suit, a one-piece with lacing over the torso that will stay in place if you choose to do laps. � e upshot: saucy asymmetric tan lines. net-a-porter.com

ACNE STUDIOS BAMBOO HEELFor modern women, getting around and getting things done are not best accomplished in teeter-ing spikes. But when you need a little li� , opt for something predominantly classic with a clever twist. � at pretty much sums up the ethos at Acne Studios. � e brand’s Roza Linnen style is not your typical high heel. In this new take on an ankle boot, the open toe and crossover design create a universally � attering shape. And while the linen is neutral, the bamboo-e� ect heel is the opposite. � is striking perch reminds us of the red-heeled footwear worn by those in the king’s court, beginning with Louis XIV. It’s also, gloriously, like a Tensor bandage on top of a court heel.acnestudios.com

PLACE VENDÔME TOMEIt’s impossible to visit the Place Vendôme and not marvel at its architectural perfection, historical signi� cance and glamorous comings and goings. Even as the central sculpted bronze column is caged in sca� olding—an ongoing restoration that coincides with a top-to-bottom reno of the Ritz Hotel—the scale is among the most impressive in Paris. Today, the public square is home to the world’s best jewellery houses, the Ministry of Justice and a few mega-wealthy individuals. And now that the art-book publisher Assouline has devoted a tome entirely to the Place Vendôme, you can curl up and enrich your knowledge of its secrets and splendour. assouline.com

Curl up with this art book

and enrich your knowledge of secrets

and splendour

MUST-HAVE

AmyVernerDesignPicks.indd 47 3/16/15 3:33:04 PM

Mercedes-Benz’s new self-driving car proves that in the future, ge� ing there will be more than half the fun

THE AUTO

EVOLUTION t e x t A n d r e w C l a r k

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MercedesV16.indd 48 3/16/15 3:15:50 PM

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ehold the F 015 Luxury in Motion—a research car from Mercedes-Benz that ushers in the era of the “autonomous” automobile. Ain’t it a beauty?

If Mercedes actually makes it to market with this vehicle, it will be the second time the auto manufacturer has changed the

way human beings move around. � e � rst time was, of course, in 1886, when German engine designer Carl Benz patented his “vehicle powered by a gas engine,” unleashing his three-wheeled Benz on the road. Now comes the F 015—a self-driving, “mobile living space” with a dreamy cabin and � ashy touch screens, all made for our time-starved age. You won’t � nd a driver’s seat, or a conventional steering wheel, or anything really that you’re used to, but you will � nd a plethora of technological coolness.

And that’s just it: � is is a cool ride. � e exterior is streamlined into Botoxed perfection, with its low-slung front end, sleek roof and track-ready rear end; the four saloon doors make getting in and out a breeze; and as a bonus for the eco-conscious, the car o� ers 1,100 kilometres of zero-emission driving.

Inside, there’s warm walnut wood and futuristic glass and metal. You can work on your laptop or relax just as you would at home or at the o� ce. All four of the rotating, ice-white nappa leather lounge chairs can be turned to allow for face-to-face conversations or playing a few hands of poker (you’re not technically driving a� er all). It’s like � ying � rst class without the customs lineups. But perhaps the most impressive innovation is the F 015’s communi-cations system. � e interior features six high-resolution display screens that allow you to interact intuitively with the vehicle through eye tracking, gesture

B� e body of the F 015 Luxury in Motion has been engineered to weigh 40 per cent less than today’s production models. Inside, variable seating allows passengers to sit face-to-face while the car is piloted autonomously. When the doors open, the chairs swivel 30 degrees to make getting out easier

or touch. � e car does the rest: LED displays on the front and rear of the vehicle even “talk” with pedestrians and other drivers via undulating lights and the ability to deliver short messages like “stop” and “slow.”

� e F 015 stole the show when it debuted at this year’s Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas. Meanwhile, Google is working on its own self-driver—yet another concept car that might not make it past the fantasy stage. But speaking of fantasies, there is one other activity cars like the F 015 might facilitate. Who knows, a self-driving baby boom might be on the horizon.

A e s t h e t e

MercedesV16.indd 49 3/17/15 9:47:41 AM

Shop owner, trendsetter and new mom Laure Heriard Dubreuil, the most fashionable person ever to conquer Miami Beach, deconstructs her personal style

t e x t A m y Ve r n e r p h o t o g r a p h s T h e C o v e t e u r / T r u n k A r c h i v e s

GOLDEN GIRL

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C atching up with Laure Heriard Dubreuil during New York Fashion Week is no mean feat. As the co-founder and CEO of the multi-brand store � e Webster in Mi-ami Beach, Heriard Dubreuil spends her days attending runway shows, showroom appointments and networking

tête-à-têtes. And while making the rounds, she manages to attract street photographers, who swarm like gulls to a baguette to capture her vibrant brand of European cool. Asked on the penultimate day of NYFW to name the fall collections that made the strongest impact on her, Heriard Dubreuil slows down long enough to single out Delpozo, Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler. � at’s good news for those labels, since few retailers ooze as much cachet as Heriard Dubreuil, in part because she clearly doesn’t make a distinction between what she likes and what works for the store. � ey’re one and the same (ditto her Instagram feed, which features a balanced mix of her daily goings-on and new arrivals in the store).

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� e Webster’s Laure Heriard Dubreuil wears Miami brights and her beloved gold Rolex Oyster. “Miami de� nitely calls for colour,” she says. “� e light is so amazing”

LEFTSome of her favourite things: Chanel jacket, Céline heels

A e s t h e t e


LEFTHeriard Dubreuil’s

jewelled Chanel cu�

RIGHTLanvin wedges and a pink phone hand-

set— a gi� from her partner, artist

Aaron Young

BELOWHer Prada lip-print

separates and a Ryan McGinley photo, Lily with

Black Eye


“Curation” has become a term as common to fashion as art, but at � e Webster, Heriard Dubreuil’s very personal selections cut through the noise for her customers. Her eye is precisely what di� erentiates � e Webster from other multi-brand shops, and rather remarkably brought some fashion cred to a city known more for its bikinis than its haute design.

“We tell a story,” she explains. “In the way we merchandise, we help clients associate pieces and looks—we create a narrative.”

Heriard Dubreuil’s narrative goes something like this: She graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York with a degree in merchan-dising and she also holds a business and Mandarin degree from the Univer-sité Paris Dauphine. She has worked in merchandising for both Balenciaga (during the Nicolas Ghesquière years) as well as at Saint Laurent.

Along with Milan Vukmirovic and Frederic Dechnik, she opened� e Webster in 2009. Housed in a 1939 Deco building designed bya leading Miami architect, Henry Hohauser, the store makes its � rst impression with a Parisian-style café in the former lobby. Which is to say, she devoted prime real estate to establishing a hospitable vibe rather than pushing product. Since 2013, � e Webster has also o� ered e-commerce through Farfetch.com.

Heriard Dubreuil says her buying decisions keep Miami clients in mind, but those who visit the store areo� en from abroad. “� ey’re coming from everywhere in the world and always travelling,” she notes, before adding, “I even carry fur in Miami.” Directional labels such as theOlsen twins’ � e Row, BouchraJarrar and Adam Lippes rule her 20,000-square-foot space.

For spring, she says she’s espe-cially looking forward to the coming ’70s redux and she plans to channel the look by wearing � ared pants, anything trimmed with fringe and Givenchy jellies for the beach. Unlike most Parisians who default to black— and occasionally navy or charcoal—

Although she’s always searching for new pieces to add to her collection, she keeps her favourites on heavy rotation

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A e s t h e t e

RIGHTA vintage Chanel bag hangs on a BDDW circular mirror that re� ects an art piece by Aaron Young


S p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5

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From Heriard Dubreuil’s jewellery box: a Del� na Delettrez hand-shaped cu� , � akoon-Tasaki earrings and a Cartier watch


Heriard Dubreuil opts for vibrant shades of red, pink or neon. Since she moved to Miami, the palette has become brighter.

In the past year, Heriard Dubreuil has had a baby boy, Marcel, with her artist partner, Aaron Young (her baby shower was hosted by fashion � xtures Lauren Santo Domingo, Derek Blasberg, and Aurélie Bidermann), and she opened a second location of � e Webster in the Shops of Bal Harbour. She insists her fashion sense has more or less stayed constant, evolving naturally and without dependence on trends.

Heriard Dubreuil notes how accessories are the easiest way to update a look and “can make or break an out� t.” And though she’s always searching for new pieces to add to her collection, she keeps her favourites on heavy rota-tion. � ree in particular—her gold Rolex Oyster watch, her Chivor necklace from Aurélie Bidermann and her engagement ring—are worn every day. Per-haps unsurprisingly, her approach to decor at home and in-store is “seamless,” she says. “I am able to create and work and live in the environment I love.”

As she describes many of her favourite things, it’s easy to see how these pieces are integrated into her life. Or, as she puts it, “they are connected 360 degrees.”

Her approach is to make things seamless. “I can create and work and live in the environment I love,” she says

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A e s t h e t e


With its romantic streetscapes, electrifying colours and new in� uxof trendsetters, the Colombian city has never been more alive

t e x t I r m a M a r t i n e z / p h o t o g r a p h s M a y a V i s n y e i

YC A R T A G E N A

C O M P A S SS p r i n g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 5

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C o m p a s s

Seafood restaurants inspired by the cuisine of the north coast are

abundant in Cartagena. Le� : A historic seawall surrounds the old city


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ARTAGENA IS ONE of the mostbeautiful cities in the world. It’s almost500 years old—the � rst Spanish colony in the Americas—and a place that’s managed to constantly develop, adding contempo-rary restaurants, bars and hotels without

sacri� cing its historic architecture and gilded monuments. � e mix of cultures is incredible. It’s gone from the little place where I grew up to a booming, cosmopolitan city.

When I was very young, Cartagena didn’t buzz like it does today. It had the feel of a small town. I could play in the streets with my friends and go for walks around town without my parents worrying about where we were.I loved the sense of fun and freedom. I le� Colombia to attend universityin the United States. I always intended to go back, but met my now husband (Enrique), fell in love, got married and settled into a new home, life and career. We try to go back at least three times a year. We travel around the world a lot—mostly for business—and Cartagena is the only place whereI can truly disconnect and reboot.

Every time I go back, I see the city through new eyes. I try to do something di� erent that I’ve never done before. On a recent trip, for instance, Enrique and I got in the car and drove out to parts of the country we’d never explored. It’s another reason to love Cartagena: You can venture two or three hours out-side of the city, � nd mountains capped with snow and a gorgeous countryside that’s completely undeveloped.

Miami-based celebrity stylist Irma Martinezis founder and creative director of the lifestyle company Trendy Inc. Her clients include actors and musicians, notably Sofía Vergara, Shakira, Ricky Martin, Enrique Iglesias, Daisy Fuentes, Pitbull, Marc Anthony, Eva Longoria and Gloria Estefan.


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C o m p a s s


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Among the centuries-old Spanish buildingsin the city is the HotelCharleston, with its charming courtyard


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C o m p a s s

I grew up in a residential district of Cartagena, but my favourite place to stay—where I’d recommend that any visitor stay—is within the walls of the old town. � is historic core is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s absolutely charming and the streets are � lled with pretty colonial homes, many of which have been converted to chic B & B and boutique hotels. If you like good food, you won’t be disappointed. Among my favourite places is La Vitrola, a Latin American lounge where you can listen to Cuban music and catch up with friends over dinner. Vera is the best Italian restaurant in the city. And, if you’re interested in exploring an up-and-coming art scene and some of the hippest restaurants and bars, go to the Getsemaní neighbourhood.

My favourite pastime, however, is to wander through the old town and watch the artisans at work. Every morning, I set out on foot from my hotel (I always stay at the Hotel Santa Clara, So� tel) to see what they’re making and how they’re making it. You may pass a lady cra� ing a necklace or a fellow working on a chair. � ey use centuries-old techniques to create their pieces by hand, but they’re always putting a slightly new spin on things. I’ve beenat runway shows in New York and Paris and spotted pieces—embroideryon a blouse, or a certain style of bag or hat—that clearly were inspired by Colombian artisans. I too draw all of my inspiration from this city, its people, culture, food and music. It’s part of who I am and part of everything I do.


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GUESTHOUSE

With 10 stylish guest rooms, two swimming pools, and interiors that blend antique and modern furniture, colourful textiles and one-of-a-kind artwork, Casa Lola is an artfully designed bolt-hole in Getsemaní. It’s housed in a pair of buildings that date back to the 17th century, yet it’s a stone’s throw from the hippest salsa clubs and tapas bars in town.

Casa Lolacasalola.com.co

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Soaring wood-beam ceilings, arched windows and � ower-� lled terraces make Casa San Agustin one of the most striking luxury boutique hotels in the city. Rooms boast modern four-poster beds, iron chandeliers, and in the largest suites, guests can cool o� in private plunge pools. � e hotel’s restaurant, Alma, specializes in coastal Colom-bian cuisine—think lobster empan-adas and octopus ceviche.

Casa San Agustinhotelcasasanagustin.com

RESTAURANT

Bogota-born chef Alejandro Ramirez trained under Daniel Boulud and worked in London, New York and Tokyo before re-turning to his home country to open Maria. Fanciful tiger murals, pineapple-shaped chandeliers and an inventive menu (oxtail tacos; grilled sea bass with bacon and edamame; and costeño cheese wontons). Ramirez’s partner in the enterprise is chef Juan Felipe Cam-acho, who runs the famously buzzy bistro Donjuán next door.

Mariamariacartagena.com

L IFESTYLE STORE

St. Dom, dubbed “the Colette of Cartagena,” is noted for its col-lection of contemporary fashion, housewares and jewellery made by achingly chic Colombian art-ists and designers. Meticulously curated, with pops of colour on its whitewashed brick walls, the boutique is owned by a husband-and-wife duo with an eye for style. � ey met while working for Ralph Lauren in New York.

St. DomCalle Santo Domingo 33-70

THE BEST OF CARTAGENA NOW

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ICE CREAM SHOP

Everyone needs a go-to place to cool down, especially given Carta-gena’s constant heat. La Paletteria (as its name suggests) focuses exclusively on the paleta, a Latin American frozen treat made of fresh fruit. Here, a glass case con-tains every colour of ice pop in the rainbow, in � avours like coconut, raspberry, blueberry and pistachio.

La Paletterialapaletteria.co

HANGOUT

Fruity mojitos and sunset views are the mainstays at Malagana, a laid-back watering hole and snack bar in the heart of Getsemaní, Cartagena’s coolest new neigh-bourhood. � e three-storey spot is run by sisters Diana and Maria Carolina Herrera Ordosgoitia. You’ll want to camp out on their mosaic-tiled roo� op.

Malagana Café & Bar 45, Carrera 10 # 31

HIDEAWAY

An hour from Cartagena by boat, the azure shores of the Rosario Islands are an idyllic retreat. � is archipelago is favoured by day trippers who want to squeeze some beachcombing, scuba diving and a freshly caught seafood lunch into their Cartagenian holiday. You can also stay the night at a beachside hotel (our favourite is the HotelSan Pedro de Majagua) and boat back to the city in the morning.

Rosario Islandsrosarioislands.com

DINING ROOM

� e main reason to go to La Vitrola—a jazz club with an old-Havana vibe, live six-piece bands, and ancient ceiling fans—is the people-watching. � is place is a legend, a gossipy hub for tourists, regulars and Colombia’s celebs, journalists and politicians. � ere’s a strict dress code and reservations are a must. Everything gets sweaty and unwound as the dance � oor � lls up in the wee hours.

La VitrolaCalle Baloco 33-201

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Calling all creatives: � ere’s a fresh art-driven vibe in the Sunshine State

iami has long been a tourism and design destination, ever since its initial heyday in the 1920s. Anyone who has toured the Art Deco District in South Beach or Coral Gables, a Mediterranean Revival wonderland, can attest to its architectural charms. And the beaches and natural beauty, well, they speak for themselves.

But like much of the United States, Miami lost its way on the design front during the last decades of the 20th century, settling for a lacklustre, instead of blockbuster, cityscape.

� en Art Basel Miami Beach, the annual � ne-art fair, came to town in 2002, creating “a demand for thoughtful art and design that can rival major art hubs like New York,” according to George Yabu, one of the designers of the new St. Regis Bal Harbour, a luxury hotel just north of South Beach. � e city had to step up its game, not only for the fair’s jet-set attendees, but for a growing international market of luxury buyers who � ock here to buy holiday homes.

� e result has been an unparalleled architectural race for high-rises, muse-ums, performance venues and most famously, parking garages, of all places, for internationally acclaimed designers to put a stamp on.

Maison&Objet, the haute home-and-design trade show in Paris and Singapore, took notice and plans to add a third show in Miami in May.

Unlike its predecessors, the Miami Beach event will be open to the public who can browse wares from Europe and the Americas, and attend events with design names including David Rockwell, Paola Navone and Yabu’s � rm, Yabu Pushelberg. “We chose the city for its vibrancy and energy,” says managing director Philippe Brocart.

Hotelier Ian Schrager, known for the Delano Hotel he opened 20 years ago, recently debuted the Miami Beach Edition hotel, which symbolizes Miami’s new polish.

“� e Miami I knew in ’94 and this Miami are di� erent cities,” he told the London newspaper the Telegraph in early March. “It’s much more global. Not just rich northeasterners, but a really sophisticated global crowd. Miami is the next gateway city.”

Here are four emerging neighbourhoods with design at their heart.

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In Miami’s Bal Harbour, a Je� Koons ballerina sculpture graces a new condo development

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EVERY CIT Y NEEDS a bona � de central park, and Miami’s playing catch-up with its newly minted, downtown Museum Park. � e 30-acre, multipurpose green space on the mainland along Biscayne Bay serves a burgeoning neighbour-hood—soon to be home to Zaha Hadid’s One � ousand Museum, a game-changing residential tower encased in a futuristic exoskeleton façade. One � ousand Museum’s roo� op helipad and pool with underwater views of the city will take luxury to a new level.

Museum Park also provides a hub for the area’s cultural institutions, including the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, whose glittery glass architecture by Cesar Pelli pioneered

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Top: � e ceviche bar at Mandarin Oriental Miami’s new restau-rant, La Mar; the hanging gardens at Pérez Art Museum Miami. Le� : Architect Zaha Hadid poses in front of the Elastika installa-tion at the Moore Building in Miami’s Design District. Watch for her upcoming One � ousand Museum residential tower

the starchitect era, and the new Patricia and Phillip Frost Museum of Science.

� e Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron dove into Miami with a tropical design for the Pérez Art Museum, featuring delightful hanging gardens and beachy oak interiors.

A� er catching an exhibit, you can go deeper into downtown Miami by dining at Niu Kitchen, which features Catalan cuisine with a twist (like chilled tomato soup poured over mustard ice cream), the upscale dining rooms Zuma and Seaspice on the Miami River, and Coya, a new Peruvian concept restaurant that � rst launched in London. Also in the area, the celebrated Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio has opened La Mar restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Miami. � e menu pays homage to Peru’s melting pot of culinary cultures.

“We specialize in raw preparations such as tiraditos and ceviches,” says Diego Oka, La Mar’s executive chef. “� eir fresh, sour and spicy � avours are ideal to enjoy by the water.”

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FOR YEARS, SOUTH BEACH—with its art deco buildings and Lincoln Road pedestrian mall—was headquarters for the tourist scene. But now, Mid-Beach is stealing the spotlight.

Entrepreneurs like Ian Schrager and Alan Faena are � lling the neighbourhood with luxury high-rises and hotels. Schrager’s Miami Beach Edition hotel and residences combines minimalist archi-tecture by John Pawson with a huge event forum and a renovated midcentury modern building that has retro details like a sundial-shaped deck. Schrager draws from the Delano Hotel’s signature traits, especially with his lobby-as-living-room,

Le� : In Mid-Beach, hotelier Ian Schrager’s new Miami Beach Edi-tion o� ers lush views from its luxurious balconies. Below: Edition’s outdoor movie theatre just o� the beach. Below, le� : � e pool bungalow at the � ompson Miami Beach

where guests can play billiards on a white marble table and sip rosemary-scented cocktails from pineapple-shaped copper cups. At Edition, he saves the best for the basement, with bowling and an indoor skating rink.

� ere are plenty of new hotel restaurants, too: Jean-Georges Vongerichten expands his empire with Matador Room and Market, both at Edition. Mandolin Aegean Bistro, a stylish go-to for simple fare in Buena Vista, opened a second location at Soho Beach House. And chef Michelle Bernstein heads up Seagrape and 1930s House at � ompson Miami Beach.

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BAL HARB OUR MAY BE best known for its designer-laden mall, Bal Harbour Shops. But lately, the exclusive oceanfront village on the island of Miami Beach has become a hot spot for swish properties and cool art.

For starters, there’s Oceana Bal Harbour, a new condo project by Argentine developer Eduardo Costantini (an art collector who founded Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), the Miami architecture � rm Arquitectonica and Italian designer Piero Lissoni. Costantini gi� ed Oceana’s condo owners with two large-scale out-door sculptures by Je� Koons.

Yabu Pushelberg, the Canadian design � rm whose founders are part-time Miami residents, created the St. Regis Bal Harbour’s interiors, which

Top: � e gleaming lobby of the new St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort by Yabu Pushelberg; the resort’s wine vault; the spa’s serene vibe and watery tones. Le� : Architect Richard Meier reimagines the early days of Miami with the Surf Club Four Seasons

mimic gleaming, faceted gemstones. Partners Glenn Pushelberg and George Yabu were inspired by the glamour of 1950s and ’60s Miami. “Wealthy travellers and entertainers like Sinatra would jet set down there and surround themselves in gran-deur and elegance,” Pushelberg says.

For his � rst Miami project, the Surf Club Four Seasons, architect Richard Meier is conjuring up a storied, private club from the days of Miami Beach’s founding fathers. Its tony neighbours include the Fendi Chateau Residences appointed in decor by Fendi Casa.

Beyond Bal Harbour’s northern border, Ritz-Carlton unveiled its fourth property in Miami, and architects Cesar Pelli and Herzog & de Meu-ron are reshaping the skyline with Residences by Armani/Casa and Jade Signature, respectively.

While on a spree at Bal Harbour Shops, don’t miss its third-� oor cultural addition called Fashion Project. Curated by London-based Judith Clark, its exhibits kick o� this spring with a look at experimental dress spanning the last century.

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MiamiV2.indd 68 3/18/15 11:51:18 AM

AVR A JAIN HAS D ONE for the mainland’s MiMo section what developer Craig Robins did for the Miami Design District—she discovered the potential for luxury in a once-derelict neigh-bourhood.

MiMo, which stretches along Biscayne Boulevard on the Upper East Side, is a wonderfully hodge-podge hood whose strip of midcentury modern motels had fallen into disrepair. Jain snaps them up and renovates them. A recent hit is the hip Vagabond Hotel. Its restaurant, run by the young chef Alex Chang, receives glowing reviews.

Top: � e bright, airy dining room at Avra Jain’s Vagabond Hotel in the MiMo neighbourhood; pan-seared beef heart from the Vagabond. Le� : An exhibit by Hugo Montoya at the artist-run gallery Guccivuitton

Mom-and-pop businesses have sprouted up around the hotel. You’ll � nd the popular Ms. Cheezious—once a food truck, now a restau-rant —known for decadent grilled cheeses � lled with every diet deterrent from Fritos to fried chicken. � en there’s Biscayne Diner, with its round-the-clock hours that appeal to artists stay-ing up late in their nearby live-work studios.

Galleries also made the move to the area. Several have landed in Little Haiti and in Jain’s Little River Business District, a collection of sun-drenched warehouses to the west of MiMo.

Here, artists have even in� ltrated the nail-salon world. At an outpost of the New York–based manicure place Vanity Projects, you can watch art videos while having your � ngers painted.

Before you leave MiMo and Little River, be sure to visit the artist-run galleries Michael Jon and Guccivuitton. Joseriberto Perez, a Miami painter and multimedia artist who recently had a show at Guccivuitton, says his works draw from the Miami climate and landscape.

“If you look at the work,” he says, “there’s a sense of the space, colour and light in Miami.”

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t e x t M a r y L u z M e j i a

o fT H E B O U N T Y

B O R D E A U XA new wave of winemakers is making a splash in southwest

France. Internationally renowned sommelier Andreas Larsson dishes on the hottest up-and-comers

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he historic French city and wine region of Bordeaux tops the travel list of many a high-� ying oenophile. � e UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its legendary vintners and pictur-esque Garonne River, is a sophisticated setting for culture

seekers and gourmands. But what draws Swedish sommelier Andreas Larsson here is more than the

rare� ed, aristocratic pedigrees of such famous wine producers as La� te and d’Yquem. Larsson, who in 2007 won the title of Best Sommelier of the World, awarded by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale, explains what he loves about Bordeaux today:

THERE’S A NEW WAVE OF WINEMAKERS ON THE RISELarsson calls Château Valandraud in Saint-Émilion, about 30 kilometres outside of Bordeaux, the epicentre of the modern wine world. “I love their wines because they’re modern with a huge concentration and denseness, but they still maintain a freshness and balance that’s inextricably linked to Bordeaux,” he says.

Winemaker Jean-Luc � unevin and his wife bought a small plot here in 1989, releasing their � rst vintage in 1991 for only €13 a bottle. “� unevin came with an open mind and ambition to make one of the world’s best

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In 2007, Andreas Larsson was voted Best Sommelier of the World by the Asso-ciation de la Sommellerie Internationale. He currently works as the wine director at PM & Vänner in Växjö, Sweden

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Previous page: Chateaux de Lascombes, a popular Bordeaux estate. Clockwise from above: Servers at the opening of Fête de la Fleur; a premier cru from Château Pape Clément; the barrels of Bordeaux

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wines—and did that within 20 years,” says Larsson. By 1995, wine reviewer Robert Parker gave Valandraud a higher rating than the lauded Château Pétrus. Valandraud wine has since been promoted to the premier grand cru classé (a top-tier wine classi� cation).

Larsson, who currently works as the wine director for the renowned restau-rant PM & Vänner in Växjö, Sweden, says his “rediscovery” of Bordeaux also includes lesser-known châteaux, such as � sherman–turned-winemaker Daniel Alibrand’s Domaine de l’Alliance, where Larsson found “one of the � nest sauternes—cra� ed with brilliance and precision.”

As part of a perfect wine tour of the new Bordeaux, Larsson recommends Vincent Levieux’s estate Roques Mauriac, speci� cally the cabernet franc–based cuvée called Damnation. “It’s dense, complex, re� ned and commands just a fraction of the price it deserves.”

But there’s plenty of the old guard, too. Larsson says traditionalists should head to Château Haut-Brion for their Haut-Brion blanc. � is wine makes Larsson’s all-time top 10; he calls it “powerful, rich yet bone dry and fresh with extraordinary length.”

THEN THERE’S THE PLACE ITSELFWhile Bordeaux’s wines will taste the same no matter where you sip them, Larsson says there’s nothing better than drinking them right where they’re made. “When I travel to a region, meet the person making the wine, see the landscape and pair that wine with local dishes—that gives me a strong sense of place.”

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� e city of Bordeaux, in fact, is as dynamic as its wine culture. “It’s like a big museum,” says Larsson. “You have centuries-old limestone buildings next to cultural, dynamic events. It’s the perfect mix of the past and the future.”

His favourite time to visit is early summer when Vinexpo, a wine and spirits exhibition, takes place in the city. � e famed Fête de la Fleur, a 1,500-person dinner and wine-pairing event, follows it. Both are industry-only, but Larsson says savvy collectors can get in by pulling a few strings with a Château they frequent.

If you’re not in this enviable position, Larsson suggests visiting his pre-ferred haunts for a taste of Bordeaux, starting with La Tupina, a classic show-case of regional cuisine. “I go there to have the chicken and frites and I’m like a kid on Christmas Eve.”

If you’d prefer more re� nement, says Larsson, try Comptoir Cuisine, where the menu changes daily and sauces are o� en made with the local wines. Once you’ve tired of sampling the food and drink (if that’s even possible), Larsson suggests you look into the jazz and classical music festivals held every summer in the area.

Bordeaux is a sophisticated city with its never-ending assortment of events that encapsulate its history and culture almost as succinctly as its wines. For Larsson, one of the most endearing and alluring qualities that Bordeaux o� ers is authenticity.

“It’s France the way it used to be,” he explains, “where people go to restaurants several days a week and still enjoy eating and drinking to the fullest.”

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La Tupina, one of Larsson’s favourite Bordeaux restaurants, is a classic showcase of regional cuisine

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t e x t M a r y L u z M e j i a

P E R U V I A NR E V O L U T I O N

Whether it’s mashed up with Asian, European or Incan traditions, the spicy, ingenious

cuisine of Peru is coming to a menu near you

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f the word “Chifa” hasn’t passed your lips yet, the spice-� ecked Chinese-Peruvian cooking style it describes is bound to soon.

Chifa, which was born during waves of Chinese immigration to Peru in the 19th and 20th centuries, is just one of the ingenious

Peruvian cuisines exploding on the international stage this year. You’ll be sampling more varieties of ceviche (or cebiche, since it’s spelled

with a B in Peru), trading your current tipple for a pisco-based cocktail and encountering unfamiliar ingredients like aji amarillo (a citrusy, sunny chili pepper).

� e Washington, D.C., restaurant China Chilcano, which was opened by celebrity chef José Andres earlier this year, is one of the newest to mine Peru’s rich heritage for inspiration.

Diners here can sample Latin American versions of dim sum, stir-fries and a quintessential Chinese-Peruvian creation—chaufa, which combines savoury Cantonese-style fried rice with tropical bananas and Peruvian chilies. China Chilcano also o� ers Nikkei cuisine, which, as its name suggests, is the product of Japanese immigration—think nigiri sushi served on a bed of puréed Peruvian spuds dressed in lemon or lime.

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At China Chilcano in Washington, D.C., a salad of Peruvian potatoes, aji amarillo sauce, quail egg, fresh cheese and sea urchin

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“Chifa is Chinese that you may have had before, but in a new context,” says China Chilcano’s head chef, James Gee. “� e � avours pop; the colour is bright; there are clean, vibrant textures. It is the Peruvian in� uence that you taste.”

Today you’d be hard pressed to � nd a major city without a Peruvian outpost of one style or another. � ere’s Ceviche in London as well as Coya and La Mar in Miami; each serve up dynamic Asian-Peruvian menus. Nobu Matsuhisa o� ers Nikkei dishes on his Nobu restaurant menus worldwide.

Chef Norman van Aken of Norman’s in Orlando, Florida, says he’s partic-ularly drawn to Nikkei food. � e Japanese-Peruvian hybrid, he says, “hit me right between the belly and the heart.”

At Norman’s, tiraditos (the term stems from the Spanish word “tirar” meaning “to throw”) hit the gustatory bull’s eye with diners. Slices of raw (not marinated) � sh, much like Japanese sashimi, are topped with a spicy chili sauce and o� en served with sweet potato or boiled corn. “� ey are the love child of sushi and the New World.”

Van Aken is also known for his roving ceviche cart. His servers create tableside plates of small cubes of tuna or bass, cured in citrus juice, � avoured with olive oil and aromatics, then topped with the textural crunch of fried plantain chips, corn nuts or popcorn.

In Toronto, Peruvian-born chef Ivan Tarazona of Celestin Restaurant leans on an Italian repertoire to re� ne the cuisine of his native land. He prepares

aji de gallina—a shredded-chicken dish simmered in a nut, garlic and aji amarillo chili sauce. � e recipe is traditionally served with rice or potatoes but Tarazona takes it a step further by sautéeing potato gnocchi with the aji amarillo sauce and mushrooms.

“We open people to the � avours of Peru in a new, modern way,” he says. “You’ll see Italian-Peruvian and French-Peruvian fusions there all the time, and it works.”

Tarazona says interest in Peruvian cuisine can be attributed to a surge of tourist activity in his home country and also to what he sees as the chef ’s job: to “give people an experience, a memory. Peruvian food also opens up a gateway into another culture—we’re o� ering our lives and travels and histo-ries though a plate.”

Some of these chefs are looping back thousands of years for inspiration. Washington State chef Emmanuel Villeran, for instance, is part of a movement called Novoandina, which marries traditional Incan ingredients and techniques with modern ones.

Villeran’s pachamanca is a dish that ri� s on the Incan way of cooking un-derground using hot stones. In this case, a cocotte (like a small Dutch oven) houses a lamb shank, quail, corn and fava bean stew made with Peruvian aromatic herbs. His quinotto, a creamy risotto-like dish, is made with the Andean staple quinoa and wild mushrooms.

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Latin food scholar and cookbook author Maricel Presilla knows the neo-Peruvian trend well. �e reigning cocktail at her Hoboken, New Jersey, restaurant, Cucharamama, is the classic pisco sour—made from pisco, the Peruvian grape brandy spirit, lemon juice, bitters, whipped egg whites, crushed ice and sugar.

Presilla gives credit for the current popularity of Peruvian cooking to the hard work of famed chefs such as Gastón Acurio and Pedro Miguel Schi-a�no, who have have been making noise at homegrown and international events. Acurio’s presentation of ceviche at the 2006 Madrid Fusion event in Spain fuelled the export of the country’s most popular dish, Presilla argues. (For a look at Acurio’s newest Miami spot, La Mar, see page 66.)

Back in the motherland, chef Virgilio Martinez’s Lima restaurant Central took the top spot on list of 2014 San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America. �e menu at Central dives deep into the country’s biodiversity with in�uences from the Andes, much like Copenhagen’s Noma incorporates local Danish ingredients in executing elegant dishes. Central’s menu features, among other things, chuño (freeze-dried Peruvian potatoes), sangre de toro (blood red tubers) and Andean oca (a type of yam).

�is isn’t the last you’ll hear about these ingredients. Peru, its chefs and its �avours are making their way around the planet.

Clockwise from far le�: �e cheerful dining room of China Chilcano, which specializes in the Chinese-Peruvian mash-up known as Chifa; citrusy Peru-vian ceviche is �ecked with native chilis and served with corn; the fresh and frothy national drink, the pisco sour

TODAY YOU’D BE HARD PRESSED TO F IND A MAJOR CITY WITHOUT A PERUVIAN OUTPOST SERVING BRIGHT, KICKY FARE

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F i n a l C u t

LOVE, L IZ TAYLOR STYLE

During her 79 years, Elizabeth Taylor amassed seven husbands and eight marriages (she wed Richard Burton twice) but the �ame that burned bright-est was her love a�air with jewellery. For Christmas in 1968 Richard Burton gave her this Van Cleef & Arpels ring featuring an 8.25-carat Puertas ruby. Burton spent four years searching for the perfect stone. During the acquisition

Raven hair, porcelain skin, violet eyes—and great jewellery. Elizabeth Taylor peeks through her custom pearl necklace by David Webb while wearing her Puertas ruby by Van Cleef & Arpels

process, he met secretly with Pierre Arpels at the Palace Hotel near the couple’s chalet in Gstaad, Switzerland. Taylor screamed with delight when she opened the box. �ough the ruby mirrored her �ery passion, she was practical when it came to her collection. In her 2003 book Elizabeth Taylor: My Love A�air With Jewellery she stated: “I’ve never thought of my jewellery as trophies. I’m here to take care of it and love it, for we are only temporary custodians of beauty.” Like stardust, these gems leave a glittering trail for all to admire.—Sarah Casselman

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TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 STEEL & CERAMIC CHRONOGRAPHCara Delevingne challenges rules. Being free-minded is her motto. Like TAG Heuer, she defies conventions and never cracks under pressure.

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Advertiser: Cartier

Ad: Ballon Bleu RGD 33mm PUWA1500

Publication: Birks Magazine

Issue: April 2015

Bleed: 9.25" x 11.125"

Trim: 9" x 10.875"

Safety: 8.5" x 10.375"

Giga Job#: 68928

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2012 Cartier

Ballon Bleu de Cartier New 33 mm collection, automatic movement

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