sthenumberofgourmethomekitchensburgeons,sodoesthenumberofhome cooks who want to become proficient users of the professional-caliberequipmenttheyown.Andofallkitchenskills,perhapsthemostcriticalarethoseinvolvingtheproperuseofknives.

NormanWeinstein has been teaching his knife skills workshop at New YorkCity’s InstituteofCulinaryEducation formore thanadecade—andhisclassesalwayssellout.That’sbecauseWeinsteinfocusessosquarelyontheneedsofthenonprofessional cook, providing basic instruction in knife techniques thatmaximize efficiencywhile placing the least possible stress on the user’s arm.Now,MasteringKnifeSkillsbringsWeinstein’swell-honedknowledgetohomecookseverywhere.

Whetheryouwant todiceanonionwiththespeedanddexterityofaTVchef,carvearoastlikeanexpert,boneachickenquicklyandneatly,orjustlearnhowto hold a knife in the right way,Mastering Knife Skills will be your go-tomanual.Eachcutting, slicing,andchoppingmethod is thoroughlyexplained—and illustratedwithclear,step-by-stepphotographs.Extras include informationonknifeconstruction,knifemakersandtypes,knifemaintenanceandsafety,andcuttingboards.

Publishedin2008byStewart,Tabori&ChangAnimprintofHarryN.Abrams,Inc.

Textcopyright©2008byNormanWeinsteinPhotographscopyright©2008byMarkThomas

Allrightsreserved.Noportionofthisbookmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,mechanical,electronic,photocopying,recording,orotherwise,withoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData

Weinstein,Norman.Masteringknifeskills:theessentialguidetothemostimportanttoolsinyourkitchen/ByNormanWeinstein.p.cm.ISBN978-1-58479-667-11.Kitchenutensils.2.Knives.I.Title.

TX656.G781986643′.3--dc222007033419

Editor:LuisaWeissDesigner:LeAnnaWellerSmithProductionManager:TinaCameron

115West18thStreetNewYork,NY10011www.abramsbooks.com

FORCHI-CHI,MYWIFE,LIFE’SPARTNER,ANDGUIDINGLIGHT

ANDMYDEARFRIENDSANNAAMENDOLARANURSEANDCAROLE

WALTER,WHOENCOURAGEDMETOWRITETHISBOOK—

MANYYEARSAGO

Introduction

PARTONE:ACONCISEHISTORY

IFromStonetoSteel

IITheAnatomyofaKnife

PARTTWO:THEKNIFEKIT

IIIYourKnifeWardrobe

IVKnifeMaintenance

VSafetyandStorage

VICuttingBoards

PARTTHREE:KNIFESKILLS

VIIBasicKnifeTechniques

VIIIPreparingFruitsandVegetables

IXFabricatingPoultry,Meat,andFish

Bibliography

Acknowledgments

IndexofSearchTerms

KnifeSkills,asastand-alonecourse,wasanoffshootofmymanyyearsasaninstructorofChinesecuisine. I realizedmystudentsneeded tounderstand thatthepreparationoftheingredientswascrucialtotheoutcomeofthefinisheddish,that preparation often tookmore time than the actual cooking, and that goodknife skills (actually cleaver skills, then) were essential to both Asian andWesterncuisines.MasteringKnifeSkills thus represents theculminationofmore than twenty-

threeyearsofthinkingabout,teaching,lecturing,anddemonstratingthisprimaryand essential skill in classrooms, lecture halls, and cookware stores. Theinspirationtocodifyknifeskillstechniquescameingreatpartfrommystudents,firstfromanalyzingthetechniquestheybroughttotheclassroom,thenthinkingabout how to solve the technical problems Iwitnessed in away that couldbeeasilycommunicated.Italsocamefromtherealizationthatthesubjectofknifeskills isseriouslyneglected incookbooks,foodmagazines,andcookingshowson television. Assumptions aremade that the reader or viewer knows how todiceanonionorjulienneacarrot.Thoseofuswhoteachcookingclassesforthegeneralpublicknow fullwell that this assumption shouldneverbemade.Thebookisthereforedevotedtofillingthisknowledgegap.

Thepopularityofandneedforknifeskillsinformationcanbeattestedtobythe fact that in all the years I have been teaching, I have rarely had a classcancelledforlackofregistration.DespitethefactthatIcurrentlyteachover120classesayearatTheInstituteofCulinaryEducationinManhattan,mostaresoldout. Some of my students have waited over a year to get in. I would like toattributethiswhollytomynameandreputation,butIwouldbeflatteringmyself.Students fill similar classes all over the country.Theyknow that theyneed tolearnthisprimaryskill.Manyofmystudentshaveadmittedthatthelackofgoodskillsandtheuseof impropertoolshavemadeevensimplemealpreparationagrudging,time-consumingchore.MasteringKnifeSkillsisdesignedtohelptheeverydayhouseholdcookwho,

like itornot,has toput thedailybreadon the table.By learning to select theproper knife and use it correctlywith amaximumof ease and aminimumofstress, the preparation of the dailymeal becomes a lot less time-consuming. Ihope this book becomes your constant companion in the kitchen and that it

expandsnotonlyyourmechanicalskillsbutyourcookingrepertoireaswell.

Imaginetheconsternationourdistantancestorsmusthave experiencedafter the firstmastodonwas felled.Nowwhat? Eighteenth-century Scottish biographer and diarist James Boswellcharacterizedourspeciesasa“cookinganimal.”Butourancestors’useoffireisbelievedtobeonlyhalfasoldastheiruseofcuttingimplements.

Sharpenedstoneswoulddothejobatfirst.Thediscoveryofmetalsandalloyswould further refine this most basic survival tool, essential for hunting,fabricating (cutting into parts), eating, and even protection. The progressionfrom primitive tool tomodern kitchen knife in effect illustrates the history ofmetallurgyandmodernengineering.

THESTONEAGE

It is estimated that mankind began making stone tools about two and a halfmillionyearsago.Theearliestcuttingtoolswerefashionedfromflint(aformofsilica),obsidian(avolcanicglasssimilartogranite),quartzite,orevenjade,allfairlyhomogeneousmaterialsthatyieldrathersharpedgesifproperlyfashioned.These stones were, however, brittle and suitable only for short implements,usuallyno longer than4or5 inches long.Theessential commoditiesofhidesandmeat could be cutwith stone tools, but it’s unclear howdurable the toolswere.

Hardstoneswereusedlikeahammertoflakeawaybitsofflinttoachieveapointandsharpedges.Nolathes,foundries,orfancyfactorieswererequired—theworkspacewassimplyalargerockortreestump.Handleswerefashionedfromwoodorbone,usingasimilarmethod.Ashorthandleattachedtoabladebecameaknife,alongeroneindicatedanaxe,evenlonger,aspear.TheshapesofmanyofourmoderncuttingtoolsbearanuncannylikenesstotheirStoneAgecounterparts.

THEBRONZEAGE

The Bronze Age is not any one particular period but rather a stage ofmetallurgical advancement thatoccurredatdifferent times indifferentpartsoftheworld.TheearlyBronzeAge is sometimes referred toas theCopperAge.Rawcopperwaspounded into toolsasearlyas10,000B.C.,but itproved toosofttomakedurablecuttingtools.Bronze,analloymadeupof85to95percentcoppermostcommonlymixedwithtin,isharderthanpurecopperandmeltsatalower temperature.Hard toolsandweapons fashioned frombronze retainedanedge farbetter than stone.Sowhilevery few implementsofpurecopperhavebeen found, bronze knives have been discovered in great abundance inarcheological digs all over Europe. Bronze artifacts, including knives, datingback to about 3000 B.C. have been found in the Near East, and recentdiscoveriesindicateaBronzeAgeinThailandasfarbackas4500B.C.

>>Smithsof thisperiodoftenaddedarsenic to thecopperwhensmeltingbronzebecausetinwasnotreadilyavailableinallregions.Thougharsenicaddeddurability, italsocreatedtoxicfumes;evenwhensmiths learnedtoworkoutdoors,itwascommonforthemtodeveloparsenicpoisoningoveraperiodofyears.Muchtrialanderroreventuallyledtothereplacementofarsenicwithtinastheothercomponentofthealloy.

THEIRONAGE

Thehistoryofthemodernknifebeginsnotwiththediscoveryofiron,butwiththeabilitytosmeltitandcontrolitsproperties.Thatourmodernknivesaremadefromiron(towhichcarbonhasbeenaddedtomakesteel)isatestamenttoourancestors’abilitytosolveproblemsbytrialanderror—lotsoferror.Ironismuchmore difficult to smelt than copper. It requires a higher temperature and isactually still hard at the temperature at which copper melts. Iron containsimpurities called slag. Some smith, perhaps out of extreme frustration,discoveredthatbyhittingalumpofnear-moltenironhewasabletoextracttheslag.Theresultingpureiron,knownaswroughtiron,isasoftironthatiscarbon-free.

Introducecarbonintoironandtheresult issteel.Thecarboncamefromthecharcoal-fired forges in which the smelting was done—as a smith hammeredaway at the sword or plowshare he was unwittingly carburizing the iron andmakingsteel.Hammeringlongenough(forging)togetthecarboncontentupto1percentproduceda farstronger tool,one thatcouldholdanedgebetter thanonemadeofbronze.There isnowritten recordof thisprocess.Eachbatchofironwasdifferentandatalentedsmithcametorecognizewhichoresyieldedthe

best results. The use of flux, an ingredient added to the iron-charcoal mix,reduced the temperature at which the slag melted, thereby making smeltingeasier.

>> Iron is one of the most common elements of the earth’s crust but isseldom found in its natural state except inmeteorites.AncientEgyptiansreferred to iron as “black copper from the sky.” When KingTutankhamen’s tombwas discovered in 1922 it contained an iron daggermadefrommeteoriciron.Thedaggerwasconsideredsopreciousthatitdidnottravelwiththerestofthetomb’scontents.

THEINDUSTRIALAGEANDBEYOND

Onceironandsteel-makingwereunderstood,thefocusshiftedtomakingknivesofgreaterweight, thusincreasingtheirabilitytocutwithlesseffort.Itbecamecheapertoproduceknivesandtheybecamemorereadilyavailable.Severalcitiesin Europe becamemajor centers for knife manufacturing: Sheffield, England;Thiers, France; and Solingen,Germany. In theUnited States therewere knifemanufacturers in Connecticut and Massachusetts, most founded in the earlynineteenthcentury.Alloftheseearlymanufacturingcentershadthreethingsincommon: a nearby supply of iron ore, fast-flowing rivers or streams to runwaterwheels,andanabundanceofwoodfromwhichtomakecharcoaltofirethefurnaces.

Priorto1921,mostkitchenknivesweremadefromanalloyknownascarbonsteel, a combination of iron and carbonwith few other trace elements.Manyknifeaficionadosprefercarbonsteelbecauseitcantakeakeenedge.Whiletheedge dulls rather quickly, it can be quickly steeled back into shape. Carbonsteel’sbigdrawbackisthatitwilldiscoloralmostimmediatelywhenitcomesincontactwithacidicfoodsandwilldiscolorovertimejustfromexposuretoair.Itwill also rust if left damp, and letting a carbon steel knife go to rust willseriously impair its cutting edge. Carbon steel knives require diligentmaintenance to keep them looking good and working well, and the averageconsumer usually doesn’t want to bother with what is considered a high-maintenanceknife.

During the 1920s, knife manufacturers began using stainless steel, whichproduced a blade that stayed sharper longer than the carbon steel blade.However,stainlesssteelistoohardtobesharpenedonasteel.Itshardnessistooclosetothatofasteelforthelattertohaveanyeffect.

The high-carbon stainless steel knives that most of us use today were

developed after World War II and, in my opinion, prove to be the perfectcompromise.Ifyoulookatthelogosideofsomehigh-carbonstainlessknives,youwillseetheformulaX50CrMoV15.Thealloyusedtomakehigh-carbonstainless contains .5 percent carbon—the ingredient essential for turning ironinto steel. The amount of chromium, molybdenum, and vanadium totals 15percent,atleast13percentofwhichmustbechromium.Thiscarefullybalancedmetallurgicalcocktailpreventstheoxidationthatdefacesthecarbonsteelknifeandincreasesthestrengthandflexibilityoftheblade.Allthisscienceresultsinknives that are corrosion-resistant, thatwillmaintain an edge for a reasonablylongtime,andthatcanberefreshedwithafewstrokesofthesteel.

Belowaretwocarbonsteelchef’sknives—onenew,oneold.ThetoponeisaFrench-style knife made by Sabatier, one of the few manufacturers that stillmakesthem.ThebottomknifeismadebyDexter-Russell.Ipurchasedthisknifein the late 1960s. Note the discoloration despite the fact that it was givenperiodicscrubbingwithscouringpowderandamoistenedChampagnecork.Itisstill sharp but if you look carefully, you will notice the original curve of theblade has been destroyed (by a street grinder who did not sharpen the edgeproperly).

MODERNKNIFEMAKING

There are three methods of knife making used today: drop-forging, precisionforging,andstamping.

InAugust2006,IhadtheopportunitytotakeatriptoSolingenandDeizisau,Germany,tovisittheWüsthof,Henckels,andF.Dickfactories,aswellasthatofJulius Kirschner and Sons, the last remaining drop-forge in Solingen. Drop-forging, an old style of knife making, is a loud, messy, sidewalk-crackingprocessthatproducesfineknivesbutisnotespeciallyfriendlytothesurroundingenvironment.Igainedagreatappreciationforhowknives(andsteelsatF.Dick)weremade.

The photo above shows various stages in the drop-forging process. Frombottomtotoptheyare:thecutblank,pressingafterdrop-forging,removingtheflashing, the rawknifeoutlinebefore tapering, the tapered andpolishedknife,andthefinishedproduct.ThepiecesinthisphotoweregiventomebyWüsthofmany years ago to show my students so that they could see firsthand theintricaciesofknifemaking.

Firstathickplankofalloyedsteelisdie-cut,heated,thenplacedinthedrop-forge to produce a flat piece. The flashing is cut away and the knife blank isready to begin the heat treatment process, during which the subsequenttempering(heatingfollowedbyquickcoolingtohardenthesteel)andannealing(heating followed by slow cooling to prevent brittleness) temperatures arecarefullycontrolled.Thequick-coolingprocessknownasquenching,usuallyina vat of oil, is probably the most critical phase, in which the heated metalundergoesaquickanddrasticdropintemperature.

Theknifecomesoutoftheheattreatmentprocesslookingprettyawful.Itisstill thick, so it must be taper-ground and then highly polished, which helpspreventcorrosion.Thehandlesareattachedandpolished,thenthebevelededgeisgroundon.Finallytheknifeisgivenitslasthumanandmachineinspections.

Precision forging is quite different from the drop-forging method. The cutblankisheatedinthecenteronlytoformthebolsterandthenissubjectedtothesameheattreatment,taper-grinding,polishing,handleattachment,andbevelingprocesses as in drop-forging. Instead of die-cutting a blank from a thick steelplank,theblankiscutfromrollsofsteel.

Thephotoaboveillustratestheprocessusedtomakeastampedknife,inthiscaseaboningknife.Notallkniveshaveafulltangorbolster—thosearejustthetop-of-the-lineversionsthatknifemanufacturersmake.Asyoucanseefromthephoto,after the flashinghasbeencutaway (second from top left), thisboningknifehasneither,yetitismadebyacompanywithareputationforquality,evenintheirstampedline,andthisistrueformanymanufacturers.Theforgedknifewill usually have an advantage in overall quality but for some tasks, such asboningandfilleting,astampedknifewillsuffice.

Despitealltheadvancesinbothmaterialsandprocesses,thebasicstructureoftheknifehaschangedlittle.Theforgedknifestillhasasingle-edgebladewithahandleandsomesortofbolster inbetween.Thehandle,originallyofwoodorsometimes horn, is nowmade of plastic or other composite material, but thebasicdesignseemstohavewithstoodthetestoftime.

Thoughafulltangchef’sknifeisdepictedhere,thesameconstruction and terms apply to other knives as well. On a forged knife theblade,bolster,andtangareallonepiece.

BLADE

Thebladeconsistsofthetip(thecurvedinchortwoatthefront),theedge(thepartthatdoesthecutting),andtheheel(thewidestpartofthebladejustinfrontof thebolster).The thick topof theblade is called the spine.Anymentionoflength—forexample,10-inchchef’sknife—referstothelengthoftheblade,notthewholeknife.

BOLSTER

The bolster is the thick piece of steel between the heel of the blade and the

handle, and is what indicates that a knife is forged rather than stamped. Thebolster provides weight and stability, protection for the fingers, and goodbalance.To testan8-or10-inchchef’sknife forbalance,place thebolsterandheelacrossyourindexandmiddlefinger.Iftheknifestaysperfectlyhorizontalitisbalanced. If theknifebladeorhandle isheavier itwillwant to tip. (Do thiscarefullyandoveratableoracuttingboard,incasetheknifeshouldfall.)Youwillhavetocompensateforaheavybladebypushingdownonthehandlewhileyoucut.It’sasubtlefeelingsoyoumaynotevenbeawareofit,butyouwillbeusingmoreenergythannecessary.Likewise,aheavyhandlewillmakeyoufeelas thoughyouareconstantly forcing theblade to theboard. Ineither instance,youarefightingyourknife.

Theflattened,curvedportionofthebolsterextendingfromthehandletotheheeliscalledthefingerguard.Thepart thatextendsfromthespinetotheheelandisgroundtoapointisthechoil.

TANG

Thetangisthesectionthatextendsfromthebolsterandtowhichthehandleisattachedbymetalrivets.Thehandleandrivetsshouldbeflushwiththetangtoensure a smooth grip and a sanitary surface with no spaces to harbor foodparticles. The end of the handle is called the pommel. Some pommels arestraight,somearecurved,andsomelooklikeabird’sbeakandarecalledbird’s

beakpommels.Theverybackofthehandleisreferredtoasthebuttandcanbeusedtomashgarlicorherbsinapinchifamortarandpestleisnothandy.

Don’t get stuck on having a full tang knife.Many of themajor companiesmakekniveswithafulltangaswellasoneswithplastichandlesmoldedarounda hidden tang.Even if you have a particularmanufacturer inmind, check outbothtypes.Youmightpreferthefeelofthemoldedhandle.Whateverstyleyouchoose,besuretocheckthebladeforbalancebeforemakingafinaldecision.

In a video hemade several years ago, the televisionfood-and-travel personality Burt Wolf described acollectionofknivesasawardrobe. I have never been able toverify when or with whom this term originated, but I like the concept.Whatshouldbeinyourknifewardrobeandwhatisactuallylurkinginyourdrawerorknifeblockareoftentwoseparatematters.

Not one to be reticent, the irascible Anthony Bourdain wrote in his bookKitchen Confidential, “I wish sometimes I could go through the kitchens ofamateur cooks everywhere just throwing knives out from their drawers—allthosemedium-sizeutilityknives,thoseuselessserratedthingsyouseeadvertisedon TV, all that hard-to-sharpen stainless steel garbage, those ineptly designedslicers—notoneofthedamnthingscouldcutatomato.”

WhileBourdainwasbeingabitharsh—medium-sizeutilityknivesdohaveapurposeiftheyarequalitytoolsandareusedforthecorrectpurpose—Ihavetoconcurwithhisgeneral tone.Manyof the things thatgobythename“kitchenknife” are useful only as implements of self-torture, as they are poorlymade,extremelydull,orboth,forcingtheusertoworkmuchtoohard.

THESELECTIONPROCESS

In a December 2004 article in the Los Angeles Times, food columnist RussParsonswrote, “As far as I’m concerned, there are only two really importantdecisions in a cook’s life: choosing amate and buying a chef’s knife. If thatseemslikeanoverstatement,youjusthaven’tfoundtherightknife.”Hedoesn’telaborateaboutthematebutgoesontoadd,“Therelationshipbetweenacookandhisknifeisbeyondmereutility.Itisoddthatcoldsteelcouldgeneratesuchemotion,butwhileascrewdriverisatool,agoodknifeisabodypart.”

WhethercookingisasseriousanendeavortoyouasitistoParsons,orjustsomethingyou“havetodo,”it is important thatyoustockyourwardrobewith

goodtools,thebestyoucanafford.Theselectionprocesscanbequitedauntingbecausetherearesomanydifferenttypesofknivesonthemarketsellinginsuchawidepricerangethatmakingadecisionaboutwhattopurchasecanbecomeasconfusingasbuyingamattress.Whatfollowswillhopefullyhelpyoumaketherightchoices.

The process starts by becoming a well-educated consumer. What youultimately end up purchasing will depend primarily on what you prepare athome. If your lifestyle demands that you eat out every day and just preparesnacks and sandwiches, youwill need fewer knives than if you are a seriousdaily,orevenweekend,amateurcook.Inthefirstinstance,youcangetbywithtwo ormaybe three knives. The serious cook usually needs nomore than sixknives.

Thenextfactorinyourdecisioniscost.Qualityforgedknives,whichIhighlyrecommend,costconsiderablymorethanthe$6.95thinghangingontherackatyourlocalhousewaresstore.Pleaseleaveithangingthere.Itisastamped,light,stainlesssteelknifethatwillbeverydifficulttokeepsharp.Aforgedknifehassomehefttoitsoitdoestheworkforyouanditiseasytokeepitsedgesharp.Suchaknifeisgoingtotakesomechangeoutofyourpocket,butdoingthemathwillshowit’saworthwhilecost.

A forged 10-inch chef’s knife can cost about $120. If you maintain itproperly,youwillhaveitfortwentyyearsorlonger.Manyofmyknivesareovertwenty-eightyearsoldbecauseIdothenecessarymaintenance.

Supposeyouuseyourknifefourtimesaweek.

20years×50weeks(twoweeksvacation)=1000weeks

1000weeks×4usesperweek=4000uses

$120÷4000uses=3¢peruse

Gettingyourknifesharpenedannuallywillcost$5.

$5×20years=$100

$100÷4000uses=2.5¢peruse

So far that comes to 5.5 cents per use. If youwant to sharpen your knivesyourself, thecostofahoningsteelmightaddanother½centperuse,bringingthetotalcostperuseto6cents.Ifyouuseyourchef’sknifeeveryday,thecostperuseisevenless.

Compare thecostofagoodchef’sknife to thecostofeatingoutorbuyingprepared foods because you are afraid of or don’t knowhow to use knives or

keepthemsharp,aproblemthisbookisgoing tosolve,and that$120knife iswortheverypenny.

Anotherconsiderationisthesizeofyourhand,especiallythelengthofyourfingers. Iobserve thehandsofmystudentsverycarefullyandnote thosewhohave exceptionally long fingers. Their grip will feel crampedwith a standardchef’sknifewhosewidestpointonthebladeisbetween1¾and1⅝inches.Forthem,Irecommendawider,heavierblade.Onlyafewcompaniesmakesuchablade, so this might mean that you stock your wardrobe with knives fromdifferentmanufacturers.Thisshouldnotbotheryou;thedesiretohavematchingknivesshouldbetrumpedbytheneedtohavethebest,mostcomfortable,mostaffordabletoolyoucanineachofthecategoriesIhighlightinthischapter.

Thehandle,especiallyonyourchef’sknife,mustfeelcomfortable;yourgripshould feel almost natural. There is a trend these days toward an ergonomichandle.Theonlyway to assess aknife’s ergonomics is toget it inyourhand,preferablyafteryoulearnhowtouseit.

NoticethatIhavenotmentionedappearance.Thewayaknife looksshouldnotbeyourfirstconsideration.Noknifeisuglybutsomelookbetterthanothersandarepurchasedsolelyonthebasisoftheirvisualappeal.Looks,however,canbe deceiving. I have testedmany a designer knife and found themwanting inmanyofthefeaturesIdeemnecessary.I’malwaystemptedtoask,“Howmanyhourshasthedesignerspentpreparingfoodwiththatknife?Doesheknowhowtouseaknifeproperly?Doessheunderstandthatfunctionshoulddictateform?Wastheknifedesignedtobeaneffectivecuttingtoolorakitchendecoration?”

ASSESSINGYOURNEEDS

Assessyourcurrentwardrobeandbuyonlywhatyouneed,notwant.Ibelievetheaveragehouseholdcansurvivewithbetweenfourandsixknives.Thechef’s,utility,paring,andscalloped-edge(serrated)knivesaretypicallythemostuseful.Thesearenotnecessarilylistedinorderofimportance;thatisdeterminedbytheuser. In my kitchen, for example, the scalloped-edge knife is used far morefrequentlythantheparingknife.However,thechef’sknife,oftenreferredtoastheworkhorseofthekitchen,isessential.Ifyougetonlyoneknife,getachef’sknife,preferablywitha10-inchblade.Inadditiontothefourknivesmentionedabove, I would add a carving knife, then a boning knife—unless you are avegetarian, inwhich case youneedneither. If youdo a lot of bakingor are adessertmaven, youmightwant to add anoffset knife, onewhosebladedropsbelowthehandle.

BLOCKSETS

Igenerallydon’trecommendthepurchaseofblocksetsforseveralreasons:1.NosetthatIknowofcomeswitha10-inchchef’s,scalloped-edge,orcarvingknife,whichIconsideressentialinanykitchen.ThelongestknifeinanysetI’veseenis8inches.2.Thehoningsteelthatcomeswiththesetisusuallytooshort(10inchesorshorter).3.Thereareusuallyseveralknivesbundledwiththesetthatyoumightneveruse.Forthesereasons,Isuggestyoubuyyourknivesindividuallyandpickupa

separate knife block if that is how you want to store them. (See Safety andStorage.)

BUILDINGAWARDROBE

Let’s takea lookat theknives I recommendyouconsiderwhenbuildingyourwardrobe. Note the many options available in terms of blade length, handlestyle,andevenhandlecolor.ThebrandsIusetoillustratethedifferenttypesofknivescomefromthefollowingmanufacturers,allofwhomhavealonghistoryofknifecraftsmanship.

BRAND MANUFACTUREDIN MANUFACTUREDSINCE

ZwillingJ.A.Henckels

Solingen,Germany 1737

F.Dick Deisizau,Germany 1778

Messermeister Solingen,Germany 1800

Wüsthof-Trident Solingen,Germany 1814

Dexter-Russell Southbridge,Massachusetts 1884

Sabatier Thiers,France 1834

Lamson&Goodnow(LamsonSharp)

ShelburneFalls,Massachusetts 1837

SwissArmy(Victorinoxand

ForgedinSolingen,GermanyandfinishedinIbach,Switzerland

1884

Forschner)

Kershaw Portland,OregonandJapan 1917

Thiers-Issard Thiers,France 1958

Chef’sKnifeFEATURES: Blade length: 5 to 14 inches. Heel width: 1¾ to 1⅝ inches forstandard;2¼inchesormoreforwideblades.USES: Preparing standard vegetable cuts (slices, strips, dices, and minces),choppingherbs,tappingoffgarlicskins,evenskinningafishfillet.

Whenyouarechoosingachef’sknife,weightandlengthcount.Thesmallertheblade,themoreforceandstressyouwillhavetoapply,andthemorestrokesyouwill need to accomplish a given task. Ideally youwant toworkwith theheaviestchef’sknifeyoufeelcomfortablewith. I recommendaminimumof8inches;10inchesisideal.

This will make more sense when you read the chapters on technique andunderstandhowtheknifefunctions.

Whatimmediatelydistinguishesthechef’sknifefromallotherknivesisnotitslengthbutitsweightanditswidthattheheel.Whenthecuttingedgeisplacedflushtotheboard,andthehandleheldproperly,therewillbeclearancebetweenyourknucklesand thecuttingboard.This isoftenreferred toas thebelly.Theclearance permits the knife to glide smoothly across the cutting board foreffortless cutting. The camber, or overall curve of the blade, will vary frommanufacturer to manufacturer, and it should play an important part in yourpurchasingdecision.Somepeoplepreferacurvedblade,someastraighterone.

Above are five 10-inch knives (from top to bottom:Wüsthof,Henckels, F.Dick,Victorinox,andSabatier).Notethedifferencesinhandleshapeandtype,

bolster style, and blade curvature. The bottom two knives stand out themost.TheVictorinoxhashadthebolster’schoilremovedtomakethebladeeasiertosharpen.TheSabatierbelowitisanexampleofaFrench-styleknife—thebladeissomewhatstraighterthantheGerman-styleknifeandthebolsterisreplacedbyacollarlikering.Frenchknivestendtobelighter(byaboutanounce)andshorter(just shyof 10 inches) than theirGerman counterparts, and I find this to be adisadvantage.Ialsolikemorecurvetoablade.

Beloware four 10-inch chef’s kniveswithwideblades for thosewhohavelong fingersandneedabiggerbelly formoreclearance. (From top tobottom:Wüsthof,Dexter-Russell,Messermeister,andawooden-handledDexter-Russellstamped knife.) Note the absence of the choil on the Messermeister and theabsenceofthebolsteronthestampedknife.Inaddition,Messermeisterpolishesthespine,whichhelpspreventcallousformationonthemiddlejointoftheindexfinger.Iwishallknifecompanieswoulddothis.

UtilityKnivesFEATURES: Blade length: 4½ to 7 inches, but I find the smaller ones almostuseless.Heelwidth:Variesaccordingtomanufacturer.Someareasnarrowasaparingknife.USES:Slicing,dicing,andmincinglargeshallots,smallonions,mushrooms,andmedium-sizefruits,andbutterflyingshrimp.

Utilityknivesare for those in-between jobs toosmall forachef’sknifebuttoobigforaparingknife.The5-,6-,and7-inchchef’sknivesandtheSantokushouldbeconsideredutilityknives.

Notethedifferencesinstyleoftheknivesshownabove,especiallythebladewidth, the shape of the handle, and the material from which it is made. Thehandle that stands out is theHenckels Twin Four Star II (third from the top).AlsouniqueistheShunJapanese-stylebolsterlessblademadebyKershaw,thirdfrom the bottom. Its Pakkawood handle is made from resin-impregnatedhardwoodveneers.

ParingKnifeFEATURES:Bladelength:3to4inches,themostcommonandusefulsizebeing3½inches.USES:Paring(trimming),peeling,coring,mincing,andslicingsmallerfruitsandvegetables,especiallyinthehandasGrandmausedtodo.

ItsshapeinboththeGermanandFrenchstylesisverysimilartothatofthe

chef’sknifebutisobviouslysmallerandlighterwithanarrowerblade.Aqualityparing knife will often have the same features as its chef’s-knife counterpart(bolster,fulltang,andsoon),thoughthisisnotessential.Athree-quarterorevenhalftangwilloftensuffice.Aparingknifemightlackabolsterbutitmusthaveahigh-qualitybladethatcanbereadilyhonedandsharpened.Itshouldnotbetoolight—youstillwanttofeelasthoughyouhaveaknifeinyourhand.Theparingknifecannotbeputtothesamebalancetestasthechef’sknife,butdobewaryofweightyandbulkyhandlesthatwillmakecoringdifficult.

These knives above illustrate the different styles of paring knives. The lasttwo on the right are French-style knives by Sabatier and Thiers-Issard. Theirblades are considerably straighter than their German-style counterparts. TheinterestingShunknifeatthefarleftwasdesignedfortheKershawcompanybycustomknife-makerKenOnionforAltonBrown,whowantedanangledparingknifethatcouldcutthingsatthefrontedgeofthecuttingboardwithoutscrapinghisknuckles.Thisstyleofknifetakesgettingusedto.NexttoOnion’sknifeisanother Shun product, a straight-bladed, bolsterless knife good formost tasksexceptcoring,becausethesharppointattheheelmakesitdifficulttosupporttheknife without running into the point. Next to the Shun are paring knives byMessermeister, Henckels, F. Dick,Wüsthof, and LamsonSharp with its woodhandle.

SLICINGANDCARVINGKNIVES

Idifferentiatebetweenthesetwotechniquesandusedifferentknivesasforeach.Islicewhenaroastisbonelessandcarvewhenitisonthebone.Iwilloftenusea scalloped-edge knife for slicing a crusty boneless roast aswell as for othertasks.

CarvingKnivesFEATURES:Bladelength:8to12inches,themostusefulsizebeing10inches.Asharptipisnecessaryforseveringjointsandworkingalongtheribsandbones.Heelwidth:Variesaccording tomanufacturer,but farnarrower than thechef’sknifewithnobelly,usuallyfrom1¼to1⅜inches.USES:Carvingmeatonthebone.

Scalloped-EdgeKnifeFEATURES: Blade length: 5 to 18 inches. The longest of these is really forcommercial use. I highly recommend a 10-inch blade.The tip of this blade isusuallyroundedorangled,butcanalsobepointed.Heelwidth:Variesaccording

tobladelengthandmanufacturer.USES: Slicing items with crusts and skins, such as bread, bagels, sandwiches,tomatoes,eggplants,citrusfruits,melons,pineapples,bonelessroasts,meatloaf,brownies,loafcakes,strudel,puffpastry,andsemisoftcheeses.

Whatisusuallyreferredtoasaserratedorbreadknifeisactuallyascalloped-edgeknife.Thecorrectnameisderivedfromthesharpteeththatrunfromtiptoheel with scalloplike cutouts in between each tooth. Your steak knives areprobably serrated. Compare them to a scalloped-edge knife and note thedifference.Tocallthisveryusefultoolabreadknifemayhaveyouthinkingofitinverylimitedterms.Thecontinuousmovementofsharpteethacrossasurfacemakes this knife effective on crusts and skins of all kinds. And because it isnarrower and lighter than the chef’s knife, it is less likely to crush delicatepastries.

Aswiththechef’sknife,lengthcounts.Idomuchoftheabovewitha10-inchblade, using few strokes. For very thin slices of lemon or cucumber, I willsometimesusea5-or6-inchblade.

Picturedabovearethreerepresentativesofthesmallerscalloped-edgefamily,(from top to bottom:Wüsthof,Messermeister, andHenckels’ pointed-tip entryintothefield).TheMessermeisteriscalledatomatoknife,butpleaseuseitonplum tomatoes only—it is too small for larger tomatoes. The Henckels is anexampleofascalloped-edgeknifewithapointedtip.

Scalloped-edgeknivescanbeneitherhonednorsharpened.Theonlywaytorenewthisknifeistobuyanewone.Youcanchecktheflatsideofthebladeforburrsandremovethembystrokingitlightlyonthesteel,butthescalloped-edge

sideisoff-limits.Thescalloped-edgeknifeistheonlyknifeforwhichthereareleft-handedandright-handedversions.Wüsthofmakesa left-handedknife inarange of sizes and styles, as doesMundial, but you can also check online forothermanufacturers.

GRANTON-EDGESLICERSANDCARVERS

A Granton-edge knife is a knife that has hollowed-out grooves groundalternatelyoneachsideoftheblade.Itwasoriginallydevelopedin1928bytheGranton company of Sheffield, England, to reduce the friction from fat andjuicesduringtheslicingofajuicyroast.Thegroovescreateairpocketsbetweenthe knife’s surface and the roast and reduce suction to prevent sticking. Thegroovesarenowappearingwithsomefrequencyonknivesthatdon’tneedthem,suchasthechef’sknife,paringknife,andSantoku.AGrantonedgeisusefulona carving knife but not nearly as effective as marketing would claim atpreventingpotato,celery,oranythingmoistfromstickingtotheblade.Also,inorder for the grooves to be effective, theymust come to the very edge of theblade,soif thisknife isgoingintoyourwardrobe,besureitmeetsyourtoughstandards.

Picturedaboveisasamplingoftheknivesmentionedabove.Theknifeatthebottom is the Granton company’s slicer. Above that is a Wüsthof 8-inchGranton-edge carver, an F. Dick scalloped-edge, sharp-tipped slicer/carver, aWüsthof10-inch scalloped-edge slicer, aLamsonSharp10-inch scalloped-edgeslicerwith apronounced curve to theblade and awoodenhandle, aHenckelsstraight-edge carver, and Wüsthof’s Super Slicer, whose scalloped edge is

rounded. Bakers like the Super Slicer knife for cutting sheet cakes. It is alsoavailableinaleft-handedversion.

ThesearethebasicknivesIrecommendforaccomplishingmostofyourdailytasks.Shouldyoustart toexpandyour skills, consideradding the following toyourwardrobe:

BoningKnivesFEATURES: Blade length: 5 to 6 inches. Blade flexibility ranges from rigid tosemiflexible.Somebladeshaveacurvedheel.Heelwidth:¾to⅞inch.USES: Separating rawmeat frombone and cutting through joints (but not hardbones).

A5-inchrigidknifeisidealforfabricating(cuttingup)chickens,orpreparingand Frenching a rack of lamb or crown roast of pork. A 6-inch semiflexiblebladecanbeusedtofilletsmallfish.

Pictured above areWüsthof, awooden-handledDexter-Russell, two knivesby F. Dickwith ergonomically designed, dishwasher-safe handles, Victorinox,andHenckels.Someoftheknivesshownhavetheclassiccurvedheel,whichisusefulbutnotabsolutelyessentialforgettingintocurvedareassuchasunderachickenwing.

FilletingKnifeFEATURES:Blade length:6 to8 inches.Bladeshave tobe thinand flexibleyetstrong(somecanbendatnearlyarightangle).Heelwidth:¾to⅞inch.USES:Filletingandcarvingfishmeat,butterflyingchickenbreast.

Bladeflexibilityisimportantbecausetheknifemustbeabletocutalongthefish’s bone structure.A filleting knife does not have to be fully forged, but itmusthaveandholdagoodedgeandmustbeeasilysteeled.Youwantthiscrittersharpatalltimes.Thebladeshouldbelongenoughtoremovetheskinaswellasfilletandcutthefishintoportion-sizepieces.Whyusetwoormoreknivesifitcan be donewith one? If your filleting knife is not extremely flexible, itmaydoubleasacarvingknifeforsmallroasts.

Pictured below, from top to bottom, Victorinox, Henckels, Knife Pro (ahollow-groundsample),Messermeister,Wüsthof,andForschner.

TheKnifeProisourfirstlookatahollow-groundknifewhosebladehastwotapers.Thepolishedportionstartsatthespineandcomestowithinaninchorsooftheedge,whereasecondunpolishedtaperbeginsandcontinuestotheedge.Actually,thewholebladeispolishedfromspinetoedge,thenthesecondtaperisground.

Hollow-groundknives are stamped from thin sheet steel, cheap to produce,anddifficulttokeepsharpastheyareoftenmadeofhardstainlesssteel.Unlessyouhavestretchedyourwardrobe’sbudgettothemaxandstillneedorwantafilletingknife,I’dsuggestavoidingthehollow-groundknivesaltogether.

SPECIALTYKNIVES

ThefollowingarewhatI’dcallspecialtyknives.Theybelonginthe“youmayneverneedthesebuttheymightbenicetohave”category.

SantokuFEATURES:A lightweight, bolsterless, thinbladewhose spine curves steeply tothepoint.USES: Itshouldbeusedtocutsmall itemsonly.It isnotusefulformostchef’sknifeapplications.

Let’sgettheconfessionoutoftheway—Irarelyusemine!ThegoodfolksatKorin,apremiersourceforJapaneseknives,toldmethatitactuallyoriginatedinJapan and wasmade for Japanese womenwhowanted to cookWestern-stylefood.Oneof themajorhousewaresstores inAmericabrought it toourshores.Therestishistory.

NodoubttheSantokuwasthenpopularizedbyFoodNetworkchefsandwasoften touted as an all-purpose knife. Bosh! There is no such thing as an all-purposeknife.Whywouldknifemanufacturersbothermakingsomanydifferentknivesifoneknifecoulddoitall?IfindtheSantokutobetooshortandtoolighttouseasachef’sknife(evenifitwereheavieritwouldstillbetooshort),andtoowidetouseasaparingorutilityknife.IcouldprobablyfabricateachickenwithitifIhadto,butitwouldn’tdowellasafilletingknife.Ifyouwantoneinyourwardrobe,and incaseyouhaveneverheardofaSantoku,hereare three.(From top to bottom: Victorinox with no Granton edge, LamsonSharp, andHenckels.)Bydintofitshandle,theHenckelshasmoreweight,buttheweightisallinthehandleandthebladeisstilltooshortformyliking.

OffsetKnifeFEATURES:Bladelengthvariesaccordingtomanufacturer,from7to9½inches.Heelwidth:1inch.USES:Slicingquiches,pies,tarts,thicksandwiches,andbaguettes.

Onelookatthisknife,below,willtellyouhowitgotitsname.Ascalloped-edge blade is set below the handle,making this the ultimate big-bellied knifewithplentyofclearance foryour fingerswhenyouwant to section things like

piesorquiche,orcutbread.

Pictured above, from top to bottom, are several examples of offset knivesfrom: Messermeister, Wüsthof, Henckels, Dexter-Russell, F. Dick, andLamsonSharp.

CheeseKnivesFEATURES: The blades are usually offset and have an etched or fluted side topreventsticking.

Picturedbelow,fromthebottom,threestylesofcheeseknives,byForschner,Wüsthof,andLamsonSharp.TheWüsthofandForschnerknivesarebestsuitedforhardcheeses;theLamsonSharp,forsoftercheeses.Ihavelivedmany,manyyearswithout having a cheeseknife, using autilityknife for the soft varietiesandascalloped-edgeknifeforhardercheeses.

Above the cheese knives are two tourne (or bird’s beak) knives and twocrinklecuttersforpreparingcrinkle-cutvegetables.TheformerarebyCalphalonandMessermeister;thecrinklecuttersarebyWüsthofandF.Dick.

A tourne knife is used to prepare those small, football-shaped, seven-sidedpotatoes,carrots,orturnipsthatcomewithyourrackoflamb.

JAPANESEKNIVES

Since the 1980s,when the sleek, high-tech,Western-styleGlobal kniveswere

first imported, theAmericanpublichasbecomeenamoredof Japaneseknives.Korin,a store in lowerManhattan,opened itsdoors in1982andNewYorkersgottheirfirstlookathand-craftedJapaneseknivesmadeforprofessionalchefs,as well as Western-style knives made for the home kitchen. Korin was kindenoughtosupplytheknivesshownabove.

It is important tomake a distinction between traditional andWestern-styleJapanese knives. The latter look somewhat similar to the other knives in thischapter,butthesimilaritiesendthere.

The traditional Japaneseknife isadirectdescendentof thekatana,aswordthatwascalledthesoulofthesamurai.Thekatanahadtohavetwoseeminglyopposite attributes. It had tobe flexible so as not tobreakon impact yet hardenoughtoretainitssharpedgeintheheatofbattle.Theproblemwassolvedbyusingtwodistincttypesofsteel.Thecore,madeofasoft,low-carbonsteel,wasenclosed in a high-carbon jacket. The two were welded together during theforging process, giving the samurai a weapon that was both flexible andenduringlysharp.

The traditionalJapaneseknife,unlike theWestern-styleknife, isbeveledononesideonly,likeachisel.Theothersideofthebladeisconcave,whichallowsslices to fall away from the blade. Some chefs believe that the single-beveledblademakescleanercuts,butforthoseusedtoEuropeanknives,learningtouseatraditionalJapaneseknifetakestimeandskill.

The Western-style Japanese knife is beveled on both sides but often notequally,inthemanneroftheEuropeanblade.Thelargerbevelisusuallyontherightside,soaleft-handedpersonwillneedtospecialorderaleft-handedknife.Western-style Japanese knives aremanufactured usingmechanized, automatedtechniques similar to those found in Germany, but Japanese knives have asharper, longer-lasting edge that is harder by several degrees on theRockwellScaleandcannotbehonedusingasteel—theyhavetobesharpenedonastone,or better yet, professionally sharpened. They are definitely high-maintenancetools.

MAKINGYOURPURCHASINGDECISIONS

Younowhaveenoughknifeknowledgetomakeeducatedbuyingdecisions.Goto a specialty cookware store that offers a selection of different brands andstyles. If the knives are all shrink-wrapped, go somewhere else. Look for thefeaturesdiscussed in this chapter.Spendmost of your time andmoneyon thechef’s knife since this is themost important knife inyourwardrobe, onewithwhichyouwill have a long-term, everyday relationship.Heft theknife—there

will be slight differences betweenbrands but the knife should have aweightyfeelforitssizeandshouldfeelbalanced.

Allthemajormanufacturersmakeseverallinesofknivesaimedatavarietyofmarkets.Intermsofprice,Ibelievethatyougetwhatyoupayfor.

Alloftheknifecompaniesmentionedinthischapterandmanyothersmakeperfectlyreputableproductsandhavetheirdevotees.Ultimatelyyoushouldbuywhatfeelscomfortabletoyouandwhatyoucanaffordbasedontheknowledgeyounowhave.

Intheinterestofcandoranddisclosure,WüsthofkniveshavegracedmyknifeblocksincebeforeIevenbeganusingtheminmyKnifeSkillsclassesin1988.Iwish I could remember who put me on to them. I have found their forgedproducts to be consistently high in quality and, of utmost importance to me,easilymaintained. Ihavegoneas longas13months,using them threeor fourtimesaweekatthevariousschoolswhereIteach,withouthavingtohavethemsharpened.DoIuseanyotherbrandsofknivesathome?OfcourseIdo,andIhavealsotriedmanyothersthat,foronereasonoranother,justhavenotpassedmuster.

Nomatter howmuch youpaid for yourknives, theywilleventuallylosetheiredge.Itisuptoyoutokeepthatedgeingoodworkingconditionandthatmeanshoningthemregularlyandgettingthemsharpenedasneeded.

Thereisavastdifferencebetweensharpeningandhoning.Sharpeninggrindsanewedgeonyourknife;honingrealignsthisedgeafterithasdulledfromuseandputsitbackinto,orverycloseto,theoriginal,just-sharpenedcondition.

THEKNIFE’SEDGE

Thebevel,oranglededge,ofanyknifeissetbythemanufacturer,usuallyintherangeof15 to20degreesoneachside,meetingat0degrees—sharp!Underamicroscope,asinthepicturebelowfromChef’sChoice,theedgewilllooklikearowofsharppoints,oftenreferredtoas“teeth,”runningthelengthoftheblade.Withnormaluse,theteethstarttobendandifyoudon’tintervenebyhoningthebladetheteethkeepbendinguntilyourcuttingedgebecomesrounded.Anythingyoutrytocutwillrequiremoreforce.Theknifecanevensliponaslicksurfacesuchasabellpepperandcutyouinstead.Withregularhomeuse,aknifeneedstobesharpenedonlyonceayear,butshouldbehonedbeforenearlyeveryuse.Thefrequencyanddurationofyourprepsessionsand theboardonwhichyoucut(seeCuttingBoards)willaffecthowoftenyou’llneedtohoneyourblades.

After your knives, the most important part of your wardrobe is the steel.Knifemanufacturersoftenandincorrectlyrefertothistoolasasharpeningsteel.The confusion between sharpening and honing is prevalent enough withouthaving the experts creating evenmore confusion. The process of maintainingthatedgeisreferredtoassteeling,honing,ortruing,notsharpening.

Sowhatexactly is a steel? It is a rod,pointedor roundedat the tip,withahandle. In between rod and handle sits the guard, and at the other end of thehandle,aringforhanging—longsteelsdon’talwaysfitinknifeblocks.Togeta

bitmore technical, a steel is agrooved,magnetized,hardenedsteel rodwithathinchromiumplatingtoprotectagainstcorrosion.Ifyoudon’tkeepyoursteeldry, it will rust. A thicker platingwould createmore corrosion protection butwouldmakethegroovingofthesteelmoredifficult.

The steel has a Rockwell hardness of 64 to 66, harder thanmostWesternmanufacturers’ knives, many of which are in the 55 to 58 range. It is thishardnessdifferentialthatenablesthesteeltodoitsjob.

CHOOSINGASTEEL

Honingsteelshavebeenusedbyprofessionalsforoveronehundredthirtyyears.The leading steelmakers are the German firms F. Dick and Flügel, and theSheffield,EnglandfirmofEgginton,allofwhommakesteelsforvariousknifemanufacturers in a wide range of styles. The length of the steel is your firstconsideration.Most range from 8 to 14 inches. Ideally it should be at least 2inches longer that your longest knife. I have a 14-inch steel for my 12-inchchef’sandcarvingknives.

Steelsalsocomeinavarietyofshapes—four-sided,round,orvaryingwidthsof oval.The roundor oval are further categorized as coarse,medium, or fine,dependingontheclosenessofthegroovesrunningthelengthoftheshaft.Ifyoucanfindacookwarestore thatcarriesaselectionofsteels, runyour thumbnailacrosseach typeandyou’ll feel thedifference.Onaquality steel, thegrooveswillendabout¾inchbeforetheguard.Somesteelsarepolishedsotheyhavenogroovesatallandareusedprimarilybymeatpackersandretailbutchers.Ipreferanovalsteelbecauseitallowsformorecontactwiththeblade.Whenusingit,makesuretheknife’sedgeisplacedagainstthebroadersideoftheoval,notthenarrowedge.

>>Beware!Therearetwodevicesonthemarketthatresemblethehoningsteel. One is coated with fine diamonds, the other is made from a whiteindustrialceramic,Neitherofthesealigntheknife’sedgebutfunctionmoreasasharpeningdevice.Don’tletaninexperiencedsalespersonsellyouoneasahoningsteel.Ifitislabeledortoutedasadiamond,itisasharpeningandnotahoningtool.

You can easily make do with one medium steel, though I am a strongproponent of a two-steelmethod—medium and fine cut. The latter acts like astroppingdevice. Ifyou’reoldenough to remember the razor-wieldingbarber,you’ll recall the strop, that long piece of leather hanging from the side of thechair.After or even during use, the barber slapped the razor against the stropawayfromtheedgeonbothsides toremoveanysmallburrsornicks.Thoughyou can get a very workable edge without it, what the medium steel doesn’tsmoothout,thefineonewill.Itdependsonhowseriousyouwanttogetaboutyour knife’s edge. Iwill often try the fine steel first and, if satisfiedwith theresults,proceedtodomywork.Ifnot,I’llusethemediumsteel,thenfollowupwitha fewswipesof the finesteel.F.Dickmakesawide, flat steelcalled the“multi-cut”withdeepergrooves that they claimwill sharpenabladebyusinghard pressure and finer, shallow grooves that will hone with lighter pressure.Youcaneasilyidentifyit, thirdfromtheright,inthephotobelow.MyfavoriteItalianbutcher inBrooklynuses itexclusivelyonhis rentedboningknivesbutstillsendsthemouttoberegroundeveryweek.

Thehandleofasteelcanbemadeofwood,polyethyleneplastic,staghorn,orevenstainless steelandcomes inavarietyofgrips. Iget thebestnonslipgripfromawooden,beehive-shapedhandle,secondandfourthfromtheleft,below.You may prefer another style and handle material, so be sure to try severaldifferentkinds.Ialsolikearingattheendofthehandleforhangingthesteelinaconvenientspotonanearbynailorhook—especiallyhandyforalongersteelthatwon’tfitinastandardknifeblock.

The guard that sits between the shaft and the handle not only prevents thesteelfromrollingoffthecounter; italsoprotectsagainstself-mutilationshouldyou choose to hone by holding the steel parallel to your torso and pulling orflickingtheknifefromthetipofthesteeltotheguard.Experiencedbutchersandchefsdothisupto200timesadayandstillgetcut.

Mostofmystudentsfinditdifficultandscary,and,frankly,itismoredifficultfor a beginner to maintain the angle on the steel using this method. For themethod of steeling I generally use, I prefer a narrow guard, either diamondshapedorbeadedatbothends.Awideguard,secondfromtheright,getsinthe

wayofplacingtheknifeatthehandleendofthesteel.

HOWTOHONEAKNIFE

You need to know the angle at which your knife was beveled by themanufacturer,usually15,17,or20degrees.Thestandardbevelforchef’sknivesis 20 degrees. Narrower and shorter knives may differ. Hopefully thisinformationwill be supplied inwhatever literature comeswith your knives. Itmightbeprintedon thepaper sleeve.Try to replicate theoriginalbevel in thehoningprocess.

Placeatowelonyourcounterorcuttingboard.Graspthehandleofthesteelandplacethetiponthetowel.Twoanglesconcernyou—thebevelangleandthetip-handleangle.Topracticethebevelangle,placethespineoftheknifeagainstthesteelatarightangle(90degrees).Cutthatangleinhalfto45degrees.Cutthatangleinhalfagainto22.5degrees,thencomeinasmidgenmorefora20-degree angle.Eyeballwhat this position looks like and remember this picture.Trytobeprecisebutdon’tgettooobsessive.Thehoningpolicewon’tshowupifyou’reat18degrees,andyouwon’tdoanydamagetoyouredge.

Place the edge of your blade against the steel at the bevel angle. Place theheeloftheknifenearthetopofthesteelwherethegroovesendatarightanglefromthetipofbladetothehandle.(Thisiswhereawideguardgetsintheway—you’llhavetomovetheknifefartherdownthesteel.)Nowanglethetipoftheknifeuptoachievea45-degreeangle.Usingandmaintainingmoderatepressure,pull the knife back and down from heel to tip and from the top of the steeltowardthebottomuntilthetipispulledoffthesteelinafollow-throughmotion.Keepyoureyes focusedon theedgeangleasyouprogressdownthesteel.Donotturnyourwristduringthismotionasitwillchangetheangle.

Right-handersgenerallystartontherightsideofthesteel, thenmovetotheleft. Pretend you are cutting aV notch into both sides of the steel.No fancy,curlycalligraphyhere.Generally,fourorfivestrokesofmoderatepressurewilldojustfine.Betteryet,dothreeusingmoderatepressureandlightenthepressureforthelastoneortwostrokes.

CARINGFORTHESTEEL

Ahoningsteelismagnetized.Allthemicroscopicfilingsthatcomeofftheedgeofthebladeasyouhonetheknifeareattractedtothesteel.Wipethesteelfromguardtotipwithasoftclothaftereachuse.Everysooften,washthesteelwithhot soapywater, rinse it, anddry it thoroughly.Unlikeyourknives,whicharemost likely high-carbon stainless, the honing steelwill rust if left damp. I amoften asked how long a steelwill last.After several years of constant use thegroovesofthesteelwillweardown.Ifyouhavemasteredtheabilitytorealignyourknife’s edgeand suddenlynotice thatwhatused toworkno longerdoes,runyourthumbnailacrossthegrooves.Ifyoucannolongerfeelthem,it’stimeto replaceyoursteel.Generally,withnormaluse,asteelwill last three to fouryears.

TESTINGFORSHARPNESS

There are several ways to test a knife’s edge for sharpness, though no onemethod ismetwithuniversalagreementby theexperts. Ipull the first jointofmythumbacross—Isaidacross,notalong—thebladeatseveraldifferentpoints.Dependingonhowyou’veusedtheknife,theedgemightnotbeevenlysharp.Ifyou’ve done a lot of cutting near the heel, that areamight need a littlemoreattention.Therewillbesomebiteorresistanceasyoudothis.Ifyoufeelnobitewhatsoever,thebladecoulduseafewstrokesonthesteel.Sometimestheedgewillfeelexcessivelysharp,almostjagged.Ifthatisthecase,Iwillusethefinesteeltosmooththeedge.Anewlypurchasedorsharpenedknifeshouldnotfeeljagged.

You can also check for sharpness by cutting a piece of 20-lb. bond paper.Hold the paper up in front of you and pull the knife from heel to tip at adownward angle. If the edges of the paper are cleanly cut and there is no

resistanceasyoupull,yourknifeissharpenoughtodomostjobs.Ifitcatchessomewherealongtheway, thatpartof theknifemaystillbedull.Thisusuallyoccursnearthetip.Tryafewmorestrokes.Ifthebladereallycatches,youmightstillhaveafoldededgeononesideof theblade.Tofix this,put the tipof thesteelonthetowelonyourcounterorcuttingboardata45-degreeangle.Withtheedgeofthebladefacingthetipofthesteel,andwithasclosetothecorrectbevelangleasyoucanget,gentlypullthebladefromheeltotipalongthesteel,thenchecktheedgeagain.

SHARPENING

Youreallyhaveonly twooptions forputtinganewedgeonyourknife—do ityourself or give it to a professional.Even if you’ve been really faithful aboutusing thehoning steel, eventually that delicate edge is going to show signsofwearandbecomeroundandthick.Whatwaseasilycutbeforenowneedsmoreforce, exactly what you don’t want. I generally suggest that you locate aprofessionalcutlerinyourarea,onewhosemainbusinessissharpeningkitchenknives and scissors, not axes and chisels—and get references. Sharpening istime-consumingandtakesagoodeyeandasteadyhand,asabevelismeasuredin microns, not inches. Unfortunately, such talent is becoming increasinglydifficulttofind.NewYorkCityusedtohaveoverthirtycutlers;nowtherearenomore than three. Ifyoursearchfora reputablecutlerhas failed,you’llhave togetanewedgeonthatknifeyourself.

GRINDINGSERVICESVERSUSCUTLERS

Agrinding service deals primarilywith the retail andwholesale butchering or

fish-mongering trades, who work with fairly cheap, hollow-ground, stainlesssteelknivesthatareusedforaweek,thenreturnedinexchangeforsomenewlyregroundknives.Theshelflifeoftheseknivescansometimesbeaslittlesixtoeightweeks, atwhich point they are discarded.Unless a grinding service canassure you that your prized possessions will be treated with loving care, becautious.Don’t assume that giving your knives to the local butcherwill solveyoursharpeningproblem.

Asfortheitinerantgrinder,thegreentruckthatappearsinyourneighborhoodfrom time to time—I can’t, in all fairness, speak for all of them, but in myignorant, young, and foolish days, I have had more than one knife’s edgedestroyedbythisspecies.Theyaregenerallyequippedtodealwithsturdiertools(axesandchisels)andnotwiththeverydelicateedgeofagoodchef’sknife.Getreferencesbeforehandandasktoseeasampleofhisfinishedproduct.

Speaking of the finished product, let’s compare two chef’s knives shownabove. Note that on the top knife, the choil curves back from the heel. Thebottomknifehasbeenimproperlysharpened.Thechoiliswiderthantheheel—notbymuch,butenoughtomakeagougeinyourcuttingboardeverytimeyoupushtheknifeforward.IfyouareusingaserviceforthefirsttimeIsuggestthatyoutakeapictureoftheheelareaofeachknifeyouaresendingtobesharpenedsoyoucanmakeanimmediatecomparisonofwhatyousentandwhatyougotback. Also, be aware that most cutlers will sharpen an edge at 20 degreesregardlessofthemanufacturer’sbevel,unlessyouspecifyotherwise.

DO-IT-YOURSELFSHARPENINGTOOLS

Honing is not easy. It takes practice. Sharpening is harder. It takes evenmorepractice.Therearedozensofdevicesbeingsoldassharpeners.Someworkwellandarefairlyeasytouse,somerequireadegreeinmechanicalengineering,andsomeshouldbethrownintothegarbage.Sortingthroughthemallisfarbeyondthescopeofthisbooksowe’lldealwiththemostreadilyavailabletoolsthatarefairlyeasytohandle.

Atright,clockwisefromthetopyouwillseeoilandJapanesewaterstones,adiamond steel, a ceramic steel, three types of diamond sharpeners, and ahandheld,pull-throughsharpener.

Ofthetwosteelsshownbelow,thediamondismoreaggressiveatremovingsteel from theknife’sedge.Theceramicsteel ismoreofapolishing tool.Thediamondwhetstoneisavailablebothasaninterrupted(polka-dot)orasmooth,continuous surface Surface textures can be extra coarse, coarse, fine, or extrafine depending on the size of the diamonds embedded in themetal plate.The

coarser the surface, themore steel particleswill be removed from the edgeofyour knife. Coarse should be used only if your knife is extremely dull. Thediamondwhetstoneisafastremoverofswarf(thematerialtoberemovedfromtheknife).Ifyouprefertouseadiamondstone,optforthefinetextureandmakesure the diamonds are of the monocrystalline type. Diamond stones areexpensive but they will last longer than water stones and do not requireflattening.

Keep in mind that any tool designated as “diamond” is hard: 100 on theRockwell scale. Therefore, steels, stones, or pull-through devices containingdiamondsshouldbeconsideredsharpeningandnothoningtools.Usethemeverydayandinsixmonthsyourchef’sknifewillbeacarvingknife.Therearemanypull-throughtoolsinthemarketplace.Ifyoudonotknow,orthedealercan’ttellyou,whatyouarepullingyourknife through—diamonds, ceramic, carbide,orhoningsteelrods—don’tbuyit.

SHARPENINGSTONES

Mostseriousdo-it-yourselfersoptforusingasharpeningstone,oftenreferredtoasawhetstoneorabenchstone.Thechoiceusuallycomesdowntowaterstonesoroilstones,sonamedinreferencetothelubricantusedonthesurfaceofeach.Bothareavailableintheirnaturallyminedstate,butthemanufacturedproducts

doaperfectlyacceptablejobandaremuchmoreaffordable.(AnaturalJapanesewaterstonecancost$2000.)

Whethernaturalorsynthetic,oil,water,anddiamondstonescomeindifferentgrain sizesdeterminedby thenumberofparticles in thematrix.Oil andwaterstones have numbers assigned by themanufacturer.Water stones usually havethenumberclearlymarkedonthestoneorbox.Thehigherthenumber,thefinerthe grit. Oil and diamond stones are usually labeled as extra coarse, coarse,mediumfine,fine,orextrafine.Thinkofthestonethesamewayyouwouldthesteel. A coarse-cut steel will align the edge but leave scratch marks. Thescratches will get smoothed out as you progress to a medium-then a fine-cutsteel, which will polish those scratch marks, leaving a smooth, sharp edge.Likewise,thecoarserthestone,themoresteelitwillremovefromyourknife’sedgeandcreatedeeperscratchmarks.Useacoarsestoneonlyiftherearenicksin theblade (and there shouldn’tbe anynicksunlessyouhavebeenchoppingbonesordoingsomethingyouwerenotsupposedto).

Water stones range ingrit size from150up to8000.For theaveragehomeuserwhowillnotbesharpeningeverydayoreveneveryweek,themostusefulgritsizesare1000andeither3000or6000.The1000/3000combinationstoneisusuallysufficientforhomeuseandwillgivethebestresultsforyourmoney.

Syntheticwaterstonesaremadebyfusingtheabrasiveparticleswithaporousbonding agent. The latter breaks down with use, exposing a new layer ofparticlesasyouwork.Pushingtheknifeacrossthestonewillresultinaslurryofsteel particles. Do not wipe the slurry away until the sharpening process iscompleted; it actually assists in the process.Water stones tend to wear morequicklythanoilordiamondstonesandmustbeperiodicallyplanedwithastonefixertokeepthesurfaceabsolutelylevel.Remember,though,thatyouareonlygoing to use this stone once or twice a year, so we’re not talking highmaintenance.The1000gritstonesneedtobesubmergedinwaterfor10or15minutesoruntilthebubblesstopsurfacing.Aftereachuse,thestoneshouldbewashedandallowedtodrycompletelybeforestoring.

As with water stones, the synthetic oil stones will suffice for all but thepurists.Oneof themajormanufacturers of oil stones,NortonPike, offers twosyntheticstones,CrystolonandIndia,aswellasnaturalArkansasstones.BoththeCrystolonandIndiaversionsareavailableincoarse,medium,andfinegrits.Crystolon,asiliconcarbideproduct,isgrayorblack;thealuminumoxideIndiastone isbrownororange.Crystolon stones tend tobemoreaggressive. Ifyouhoneona regularbasis, I’d recommendamediumanda fine Indiastone.Youwill have four sides toworkwith and they should last a lifetime.Neither the

CrystolonnortheIndiafinestoneswillgetyouahighlypolishededge—you’llneed a natural softArkansas stone for that. Frankly, formost households, thefine India stone will give you a sufficiently sharp and smooth edge. Theexceptionisifyoudoalotofmeatfabrication,inwhichcaseyoumightconsiderputtingyourboningand filletingknives through thecycleofmediumandfineIndiafollowedbysoftArkansas.

Synthetic oil stones are filled with oil at the factory but the stonemanufacturersstillrecommendglazingthesurfacewiththeiroilbeforeeachuse,as above. Wash oil stones with soap and water, rinse, and allow to drythoroughlybeforestoringinaclosedbox,asdustanddirtcanclogthesurface.

Youwillwantyour stone tobe largeenoughsoyoucanachievea smooth,fluidmotionwhenusingit.Moststonesare8incheslongandatleast2incheswide.Asforstyle,youroptionsareafree-standingstoneorastonethatfitsinabase,whichhelpsinanchoringthestoneduringuse.

My 6000-grit Japanese water stone is fixed in its base. The free-standingwaterstonecanbesetonawettowel;theoilstonecannot,soifyouoptfornobase(abaseisusuallyincludedaspartofatwo-orthree-stonesystem),justuseatowel or rag to prevent it from moving about during use. The manufacturersuggestsputtingoil inthebase,butIfindthismessy,andoilonlytheexposedsurfaceIamusing.

ELECTRICSHARPENERS

The electric sharpener bears mentioning because of its nearly universal

availability in cookware stores and on cookware Web sites. If this is thesharpening route you choose, I urge you to read the instructions carefully andmore thanonce.TheChef’sChoiceModel 120 three-slot electric sharpener isbelow.Theslotsaredesigned to sharpen,hone,andpolish theedge. It soundssimple,butonceyouturnontheswitch,youcannotcontrolthespeedatwhichthediamondsmovealongtheedgeofyourknife.Youmustlearnhowtosetandpulltheknifethroughtheslots.Iftheknifeiskeptinthestartpositionattheheelfortoolong,youwilleventuallyhaveaswailedknife,onewhosechoiliswiderthantheheel.Remember,youareworkingwithdiamondsandtheycandamageyourknifeifusedimproperly.Youwillnothaveasmuchcontroloftheedgeasyouwouldwith sharpening stones,where you control the bevel angle and theappliedforce.

Anotherthingtoconsideristhatthediamondslotsleavescratchmarksontheedgeof theknife. Iamalsoconcerned that themachinewillalter thebevelofmostknivesifusedinallthreephases.Ihaveusedthepolishingslotontherightsideandnotedthatitdidsmoothouttheedgeofmyknife.

Professionalcutlersandseriousdo-it-yourselfersusuallyeschewtheelectricsharpener. The former use professional machines costing hundreds, eventhousandsofdollars,noneofwhichutilizesdiamonds.Instead,theknife’sedgeis placed on a series of belts or wheels of increasing fineness and are oftenfinishedonacottonbuffingwheeltopolishtheedge.Thebeltsitsinareservoirof water to keep the knife edge from getting too hot. Sharpening, even on amachine, isaseriousskillandtakesa longtimetolearn.Believeitornot, theknife-sharpeningtradecanbelucrative.

HOWTOSHARPENAKNIFE

Thinkofthesharpeningprocessasshavingoffaverythinlayerofsteeltogetata fresh layer underneath. You are trying to push the knife’s bevel from theshoulder,thepointwheretheblade’spolishedtaperbegins,tothe0-degreeedge.Thesteelisverythinatthatpointsonotmuchforceisrequired.Asthesteelispushedinthisdirectionaburr,orthinwireedge,formsontheoppositeside,thesidefacingup.Theburrshouldformalongtheentireedgeandisanaturalresultofonebevelbeingpushedagainstanother.

There areproponentsofpulling theknife across the stone fromheel to tip,pushing across the stone from tip toheel, andmaking circular or even figure-eightmotions.IprefertousethemethodtaughttomebyChiharuSugaiofKorinJapaneseTradingCorporationofManhattan,apurveyoroffineJapanese-madeknives,becausehistechniqueusesamovementoftheknifeonthestonethatissimilartothewayIusemychef’sknife.IperiodicallyreinforcethesetechniquesbyviewinghisDVD(seeBibliographyofBooksandWebsites).Theprocesscanbeusedwithallsharpeningstones.

If using a Japanesewater stone, gather everything you need to get started.Soakthestoneandstonefixerinwaterforabout10minutes.Whenthesoakingwaternolongerbubbles,thestoneandstonefixerarereadytouse.Useafixertoachievea45-degreeanglealongthelongandshortsidesofthestone.Threeorfourmoderatestrokesaresufficient—right-angleedgescouldscratchtheknife.Runyourhandoverthetop,checkingtoseeifitisconcave.Ifso,flattenitwith

thefixer.Establishing the angle may be the most difficult part of the sharpening

process. You are trying to place the knife’s bevel on the stone. If the knife’sspineisraisedtoohigh,onlythebevel’sfrontedgeisincontactwiththestone;toolowandyouareonthebackedgeandtheshoulderoftheblade.

Once theanglehasbeenestablished,youare ready tosharpen the first sideusingthemedium(1000grit)stone.Sincethebevelisthesameoneachside,itdoesnotmakeagreatdifferencewhichsideyoubeginwith,butIusuallystartwiththelogosidedown.

Sprinklesomewateron thesurfaceof thestone.Place the thumbalong thespineandtheindexfingerontheheel.Placethebladeatabouta40-degreeangle(four o’clock)with the heel in the bottom right corner of the stone.Raise thespineabout¼ inchandplaceyourmiddle three fingersdirectlyon theknife’sedge. They should not touch the stone. It is of utmost importance that youunderstandthatsharpeningtakesplaceunderthefingers.

Usingmoderateandconstantpressure,pulltheknifestraightupthecenterofthestonewiththefingers,whilepushingwiththeotherhandtakingcarenottoraisethespine.

Releasethepressureandpulltheknifebacktothestartposition.Beforeyoumake thenextstroke,move theknifeahead,underyour fingers,about½ to¾inch.Donotspreadyourfingersapart.

Pull andpush the knife forward again to sharpen a new section alongwithsome of the old. Repeat this process until you have reached the bolster. Thewholeprocesswillprobably takeeight to ten strokes.Check the slurrymarks;theyshouldtravelrightupthecenterofthestone.

Dependingonthestartingconditionoftheedge,youmighthavetorepeatthewholeprocessthreeorfourtimesuntilyouhaveraisedaburronthetopsideoftheedge.Checkbyrunningyourthumbnailovertheedge.Onceyouhaveaburr,youcansharpentheotherside.

Turnthebladeoverandchangefingerpositions.Placethethumbontheheelandtheindexfingeronthespineandrepeatthestepsusedforthefirstsideusingthesamebevelangle.

If theknifehasapronouncedbolsterand it isgetting in theway,graduallyturntheknifehorizontallyasyougettowardsthemiddleoftheblade.Sharpenuntil you feel a burr on the top side. Remove the burr by giving the just-sharpenedsideafewgentlestrokeswithafinestoneorevenaceramicsteelifyouhaveone,orbygentlypullingtheburredsidediagonallyacrossthestone.

Aftertheinitialsharpeningprocessonthemediumstone(1000grit)youarereadytousethesameprocessonthefinestone(3000or6000grit).Youarenottryingtoraiseaburr,butinsteadtopolishtheedgebysmoothingoutanyscratchmarksmadebythemediumstone.Preparethefinestoneandplaceitinthesameposition on the towel as themedium, and keep the knife in the same startingposition.Ifyouareusingacombinationwaterstoneithasalreadygonethroughthe soakingprocessbut it is agood idea todribblewateron the surfaceagainbeforeputtingtheknifetoit.

After the blade has gone through both the sharpening and polishing phase,there stillmaybemicroscopicparticleson the edge.Theycanbe removedby

stroppingthebladeedgeonseveralsheetsofdampnewspaperorbyusingverylightstrokesona fine-cutorceramicsteel,orevenonagenuine leatherstrop.Stropawayfrom—notinto—theedge.

The threecomponentsof thesharpeningprocess, thepull-push, release,andrepositioningof theknife,arenoteasytomaster.BeforeIputknifetostone,Ipracticedthetechniqueslowlyonacuttingboardtoacquirethecoordinationofallthemovements,doingonemotionatatime,thenaddingthenextandthenextuntilIbegantofeelcomfortable.Iwasnotthrilledwithmyfirstattemptatthereal thing but soon began to note improvement and success—sharp knives.Though I do not have the ease and speed of Master Sugai, I feel rathercomfortableputtingmyfineWesternkniveson thestone. I’mstillworkingongetting the hang of sharpening traditional and Western-style Japanese kniveswhoserespectivelysingleandunevenbevelspresentanewchallenge.

If everything you’ve learned about sharpening seems overwhelming, don’tworry.LookBibliographyofBooksandWebsites fora listofcutlers,manyofwhomdomail-orderbusiness.

KNIFEREPAIR

Badthingshappentogoodknives.Knifetipsgenerallydonotbendorfalloff,nordochipsornickssuddenlyappearinthebladefornoreason.Accidentsdohappen—knivesoccasionallyfallfromhandsortables.Butmostbadthingsaretheresultofneglectorabuse—bonesarechopped,knivesclangagainstpansinthedishwasher,cansarepriedopen,hedgesgettrimmed.

Anexperiencedcutlercanstraightenatipormaybeaslightbendintheedge,butaknifehastoberegroundtoreestablishthepointorgetridofaseriousnick.Theintegrityoftheknife,itscurveandbalancecanbeseriouslycompromised.So,letthebutcherhackthebones,don’tputyourknivesinthedishwasher,buyacan opener and a hedge trimmer, and only use your knives for their intendedpurpose.

AFINALTHOUGHT

Hone(steel)andsharpen(stone)yourknivesregularly.Keepingyourknivesingoodworkingconditioniseasieriftheknifeisstillrelativelysharp.Aligningtheedgecanbeaccomplishedwithmoderatepressureandfewerstrokesonthesteeliftheteethhavenotbeenallowedtofoldtoomuch,inwhichcaseyouwillneedmorestrokesandfirmerpressurewhilehoning.Similarly,waitinguntiltheknifeisverydullcanincreasethetimeonthestonebyasmuchas10minutesuntiltheburr forms.Thinkofhoningand sharpeningas theoil changeand tune-up foryour knives. By doing both regularly, you increase the life andwell-being of

yourknifewardrobe.

SAFETYFIRST

You already know that keeping your knives sharp is important not only foreffectivecutting,butalsoforsafetyreasons.Adullknifeisadangeroustoolthatforcesyoutoworkharder.Thisextraeffortcanresultinaslip,whichcanresultinaseriouscut.Therearelotsofthingsyoucandotominimizethenumberofknife-relatedinjuriesinthekitchen.

Not surprisingly, America’s number one kitchen accident is the hand-cutbagel.Never use a knife to cut anything you are holding in the palm of yourhand.Alwayssliceonacuttingboard.Neverremovefoodfromyourknifewiththebladeedgefacingyourpalm.

Keepallknifeedgescovered.Placeknivesinablockor,ifstoringtheminadrawer, keep the edges protected by enclosing them in plastic sheaths so youdon’tnickyourfingersasyouhurriedlyreachforyourfavorite.Sheathscomeinavarietyofsizestoprotectallbutthelongestknives.Forthoselongerorwiderknivesthatwon’tfitintoablockorstore-boughtsheath,makeyourownfromapieceofcorrugatedboardandstrappingtape(seebottomknife,shownbelow).

Keepallknivesoutofthereachofchildren.Istronglyrecommendalockeddrawerforknives.Childrenarecurious.Theyfindstuff.

Don’t leaveknives inasinkfullofdishes,anddon’tplacekniveswith tipspointed upward in the silverware compartment of your dish drainer ordishwasher rack. They don’t belong in any of these places at any time.Aftereachuse,washyourknivesbyhandinhotsoapywaterusingacottondishcloth.Drythemimmediatelyandputthemsafelyaway.Neverwashordryaknifewiththebladeedgefacingyourpalm.

When transporting knives in the kitchen, hold the handle firmly. Carry theknifeparallel toyour legs, tippointeddownward,blade facingback,untilyoureachyourdestination.

Tohandsomeoneaknife,holditbythespinewithyourhandcenteredoverthe bolster, tip facing you, handle facing the recipient.Do not let go until therecipientsays,“gotit.”Orplacetheknifeonthecuttingboardorcounterandletthenextpersonpickitup.

Alwayskeepyourknifeinviewonthetableorboard.Don’tcoveritwithacasuallythrowntowelorapron.Youmightforgetwhereyouleftitanditcouldgoflyingwhenyougotowipeaspillordonyourapron.

Don’t carry a cutting boardwith a knife on it.The knife could slip off theboardasyouheadtowardsthesinkorcounter.Maketwotrips;otherwiseoneofthemmight be to the emergency room, where you can commiserate with the

personwhodidthebagelthing.Keepyourcuttingboardstabilizedatalltimestopreventitfromslippingona

smooth work surface such as polished wood, granite, tile, or Corian. Use anonskidplasticorrubberizedmaterial(availableinofficesupplystores)betweenyourboardandcounter.A6×6-inchpiececenteredundertheboardwillpreventtheboardfromslipping.Somepeopleliketouseawettowel,butthisisnotgoodforwoodencuttingboards.

Don’t letaknifehandlehangoff theedgeofyourcuttingboard. Ifyouarestill prepping food and need to leave the prep area, keep the knifewithin theconfines of the board. This one gotme—during a class. It was a less painfullesson for thestudents than forme. Iaccidentallyhit thehandleand thebladecameupandback.IcouldnotgetmyhandoutofthewayfastenoughsoIpaidthepenaltyformylapseofattention.Thegoodnewsisthattheknifewassharpandthecuthealedquickly.

Don’t try to catch a falling knife. Step back and let it drop.Knives can beeasilyreplaced—fingersandtoestakemorework.

And,finally,whileyouwon’tgetarrestedforcuttingundertheinfluence,itisgenerallynotagoodideatomixalcoholandknives.

Thinkingsafetyisthenumberonerule.

STORINGYOURKNIVES

Where you store your knives is asmuch amatter of safety as it is about theorganizationofyourworkenvironment.

KnifeBlocksTherewasatimewhenaknifeblockwasonlysoldaspartofaset,andthatisstillthemostcommonwaytoacquireone.Ihavemyquibbleswithsets,astheynever contain some of the longer knives I find useful—the 10-inch chef’s,carving, or scalloped-edge knives. It is now possible to buy your blockindependentofyourknives.

Knifeblockscomeintwobasicshapes:uprightorangled.Ifindtheuprightstyletobeimpracticalinmostsituations.Fromamechanicalpointofview,itismore difficult to remove your knife from the block. You must pull the knifestraightup.Forthoseofaverageheightthisismoreawkwardthanremovingitfromanangledblock.

In addition, it is difficult to place the upright block on any counter withcabinets above it unless there is an extraordinary amount of space betweencounter and cabinet. This type of blockworks if you have a good-size island

withworkspaceoneitherside.

Theangledblockabovewascreatedintheearly1970sbyMalcolmCooper,Sr., owner of J. K. Adams, a Vermont company that manufactures woodencuttingboardsandknifeblocks.Whenalowersectionforsteakorparingkniveswasadded,theirangledblockbecameknownasakangarooblock,anamethatisstillusedtoday.

Mostknifeblocksaremadeofwood,usuallystainedoakormaple,butyoucanalsofind theminmanycolors, inclearacrylic,andeven instainlesssteel.Somearemadedomestically,othersimported.Yearsago,importedblockswerenotwellfinished,especiallytheknifeslots,whichtendedtolookunfinishedwithraggededges,butthequalityhasimproved.

Theslots intheblockwillbehorizontal,vertical,orboth,dependingontheblock’s capacity. The top part of the 17-slot block that I currently use hashorizontal slots so the knives rest on the flat of the blade. A smaller bottom(kangaroo) section has vertical slots meant for small knives, which I insertblade-sideup.

Youbuyacarbasedontheseatingandcargospaceneeded,acomputerbased

on the software itwill need to run and its storage capacity.You should buy aknife blockwith the samemindset.Howmanyknives doyouhaveor plan tohave?What size knives do you have or plan to have? Do you want to storekitchen scissors in the block?You should plan for the present and the future.Knife blocks comewith a set height and a finite number of slots of differentwidths.Thedeeper slots areon the top, and theyaccommodate longerknives.Notallblockswillhold10-inchknives,andif theydo, theyusuallycan’tholdmorethanoneinthetopslots.Ifplacedinalowerslottheyextendbeyondthedepthoftheblockandwillscratchthesurfaceonwhichyourblockrests.Ifyouneedspacefora10-inchknife,yourblockmustbeatleast10½inchesdeep.

There will usually be a round space in the upper right cornermeant for asteel.Makesureitwillholda10-inchsteel,theminimumsizeyoushoulduse.My12-inchchef’sandcarvingknivesdonotfit inmyblock,nordomy12-or14-inch steels. I have learned to live with this. The knives are sheathed in anearby drawer, andmy steels hang from a cabinet two steps behindmyworkarea.

Ifyouarenotsurewhattoget,takeyourkniveswithyouwhenyougoblockshopping,butalsothinkofyourfutureneeds.Ifyouplantogetsteakknivesormorethanoneparingknife,besuretheblockisbuiltforgrowth.Thereisneverone perfect knife block, but with careful research you can find one toaccommodateyourpresentandfuturewardrobe.

MagneticBarsMagneticbars come in several styles and lengths. I havenever considered thebar,which consists of severalmagnetic strips attached to awooden block formounting, as aviablechoice formykitchen. Ihave far toomanyknives—themagnetwouldhavetobe4feetlong.Ialsodonotlikethesoundofthemagnetgrabbingtheknife.That’snailsonablackboardforme.

Ifyouhavenocounterspaceforaknifeblockandyouownjustafewknives,consider a bar that ranges in length from10 to 24 inches. Take your heaviestknifewithyouwhenshoppingforabar.Placeyourknifeonthebarandholdthebaruptobesuretheknifeholds.Somesmallerbarscan’tholda10-inch,wideWüsthofchef’sknifesecurely.

Toremoveaknifefromthebar,turnthehandlesothattheflatofthebladeisreleased from contactwith the bar, then pull it towards you. Pulling the knifestraightdownwardwillscratchtheblade’ssurface.

Whetheryouopt forablockoramagneticbar,youwillwant tokeepyourmostfrequentlyusedknivesascloseaspossibletoyourworkareaunlesssafety

reasonsdictateotherwise.Idonotwanttogotraipsingacrosstheroomtogetaknife.Myangledblocksitswithinarm’sreachandIcangetarathersecuregripon the handle of any ofmy knives. If possible, keep your knife storage awayfromthesinkarea,wherethereisalwaysmoisture.

If neither the block nor themagnetic stripmeet your needs, a simplewebsearchfor“knifestorage”willproduceavarietyofalternativesforstoringyourknives. If there are children in your house, knives belong in a locked drawerwhere they can be individually sheathed, stored in a ready-made slotted knifetray,orrolledupinakniferoll.

JoeNg,oneofNewYork’s topdimsumchefs,and Iwere dining on his delicacies one day and talkingaboutknivesandboards,whenhesaid,“Theknifeandtheboardareafamily.”Irealizedthatbyfamily,hemeantacaringandrespectfulfamily.Hereveresandrespects the toolsofhis trade,asdoallchefs,andunderstands theinterrelatedness of the implements in his kitchen.After your honing steel, thecuttingboardisthemostimportantmemberofthefamily.

Your knives and cutting board are going to be lifelong companions. If youchoosethewrongboard,youwillhaveadysfunctionalfamily.Itisdifficultfortheknifetodamagetheboard,buteasyforthewrongboardtohurttheknifebyquicklydullingitsdelicateedge.

THEHISTORYOFTHEBUTCHERBLOCK

The modern cutting board evolved from the butcher block, whose origins gobacktothelastquarterofthenineteenthcentury.Twoofthecompanieslargelyresponsible for this innovationare still inbusiness today: theMichiganMapleBlock Company, founded in 1878 and John Boos & Company of Illinois,foundedin1887.AccordingtotheMapleBlockwebsite,thecuttingblockusedbybutchersatthetimewasasectionofsouthernsycamorelog.Theboard’ssizewaslimitedbythelog’sgirth,andittendedtosplitasitdried,whichcausedittoharbor bacteria,making the surface unsanitary.The company decided to swapsycamoreformaple,whichisnativetoandabundantinthearea.Insteadofusinga section of log, they glued strips of wood together with the ends (from theexposedstump)facingup.Theresultwasafarmoredurableproductnotlimitedinwidthorheight.

JohnBoos&Companyalsomadecross-sectionblocksfromlocalsycamore.Blacksmithswereusingtheseblockstosupporttheiranvilsandabsorbtheblowsfrom their hammers. Commercial butchers noticed this practice and began

ordering the blocks for their shops. In 1892, the company moved from ablacksmith’s shop and began producing butcher blocks. Eventually, bothcompaniesrealizedthatabroadermarketbeckonedandbeganproductionofthemoderncuttingboard.

MODERNCUTTINGBOARDS

The twomostcommoncuttingboards found in today’shomesaremadeeitherfromwoodorsometypeofplastic,apetroleumderivative.Beforetheadventofplastics,woodwastheonlysurfaceonwhichfoodwascut.Itseemsasthougheveryyear,anewstudycomesoutstatingthatwoodissaferthanplastic,orthatplastic is safer than wood. Scientist Dean O. Cliver brought to our attentionthrough several studies the fact that wood has natural antibacterial properties.Thereareamplestudiesproducedbyindependentresearchersandacademicsthatsupport both sides of the wood-versus-plastic safety issue. One of the mainconcernscentersaroundthecutstheknifemakesonthesurfaceoftheboardandtheabilityofthosecutstoharborbacteria.Somestudieshaveconcludedthatthisismoreofaproblemwithplasticsinceitcannotberesurfaced,whileothershaveconcludedthat thesamecanbesaidofwoodenboards(thoughIhavedonesowithsandpaper).Sothebattleragesonwithoutaknockoutpunchoneitherside.

Thereisalsotheissueofconvenience.Commercialfoodinstitutions,cookingschools,andrestaurantsgenerallypreferplasticboardsbecausetheyrequirefarlessmaintenancethanwood.Iwasthereforepleasantlysurprisedtoseewoodenboards in the kitchen of the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena,California,onavisitseveralyearsago.Aftertheclass,theboardsweretakentothesink,washed,anddried.

IhavepersonallyusednothingbutwoodenboardssinceIstartedcookingformyselfintheearly’60s.Ihaveneverhadafoodborneillnessinmyhousenor,tothe best ofmy knowledge, has anyone ever become ill from food that I haveprepared,andIhavetaughtincookingschoolsthatusedwoodenboards,plasticboards,orthinplasticsheets(Ihatedthose).

Forthosewhoarestillnotconvincedthatthesimplestepstofoodsafetyaresufficient, use different boards for meats and vegetables. Plastic boards areavailable in different colors. J.K. Adams of Vermont makes a board with achickenimprintedononesideandsomevegetables imprintedontheother.Nomatter which solution you choose, you are still going to have to observe thebasicrulesofboardsafetyandsanitation.Regardlessofmaterial,aftereachuse,cutting boards have to be cleansedwith soap and hot water, rinsed, and thendried.

WOODENBOARDS

Thoughtherearecuttingboardsmadefromthecompletecrosssectionofatree’strunk,mostaremanufacturedfromair-andkiln-driedplanks.Thedryingprocesscan take weeks or months depending on the original moisture content of thewood.Theendproductwillhavea6-to8-percentmoisturecontent. (Thiswillbecomeimportantwhenyoureadaboutboardcarelateron.)

The wood is then cut to the specifications, glued with a nontoxic glue,clamped, machine sanded, shaped (rounded corners, beveled edges, routedhandles,orallof theabove), thenoil finished,usuallybydipping theboard inthemineraloilsolution,liftingit,andlettingitair-dry.

Cuttingboardsareassembledinoneofthreeways—exposingendgrain,edgegrain,orflatgrain.Youcanquicklyrecognizeanend-grainboardbythesmallsections of wood that make up the cutting surface. The board shown above,custom made for me by the Bally Block Co., is not only an end-grainconstructionbutisalsodovetailed—thepiecesarefittedtogetherbyinterlockingjoints.

The most common use for end-grain construction is butcher block, notbutcher-blocktabletopsorcuttingboards,but realbutcherblockthatstandsonlegs,is12to16inchesthick,34incheshigh,andweighsupwardof300pounds.End-grain cutting boards are time-consuming and difficult tomanufacture andarethemostexpensiveofthethreestyles.Theyareheavybutextremelydurableandwarp-resistant,unlessyoureallyabusethem.

End-grain boards exact the smallest toll on your knife’s edge compared toedge-grainandflat-grainboards.Thewoodfibersarepointedupwardsoyouarecuttingintothem,notacrossthem(muchlikeplacingacombbetweenbristlesona hairbrush)which helps your knife actually stay sharper longer.You are lesslikelytoseeknifemarksontheboardbecausethegrainofthewoodspreadstoaccommodate the blade, then reverts to its original form in a self-mending

process.Anedge-grainboard,seenhere,ismadefrom2×4sturnedsothatthe2-inch

side,oredge, facesup.Theseboardsarealsostronganddurable,and thebestalternativetotheend-grainvarietyifyoudon’twanttopaythehigherprices.

Withpropercaretheseboardswilllastformany,manyyears.Someofminearemarking their thirtieth anniversary. Edge-grain boards can be a very goodvalue.Theyaregenerallynotasthickasendgrain,usuallyonly1or1¼inches,butsomecompaniesdomakea3-inchvariety.

Finally,ifyouturnthat2×4sothatyouarelookingatthe4-inchside,youhave themakings of a flat-grain board, theweakest construction of the three,sinceonlythesmallestsurfaceofthat2×4isgluedtogether.Evenifthesamequalitywood,glue, andworkmanship are used, these cutting boards aremuchmore susceptible to warping at the ends, especially if you are not scrupulousabout keeping them dry. Though I have several flat-grain boards, I prefer tospendtheextramoneyforthemoredurableedgegrain.

By far themajorityof cuttingboardsproducedby larger commercial boardmanufacturers are made from a variety of hard maple.Maple has the perfectpropertiesforacuttingboard.Itisdense,closegrained,uniformlytextured,andhas just the right hardness to be durablewithout quickly blunting your knife.Therearesoftmaplesthatareabout25percentsofterthanthehardvarietiesandnotaswellsuitedforthemakingofcuttingboards,yettheyareinuse.Lookforsome designation—such as hard maple, rock maple, northern maple—thatindicatesahard-mapleproduct.Therearecompanies thatuseotherhardwoodssuch as cherry,white oak, birch,walnut, or a combinationof these, and someevenuseexoticwoods.

OTHERTYPESOFBOARDS

BambooArecentandvisuallyappealingadditiontothecuttingboardsceneismadefrommany laminated strips of bamboo, below. Bamboo is 16 percent harder thanmaplewood,weighsathirdlessthanoak,yetinsomeinstancesisasstrongassteel. When I was in China many years ago, bamboo was being used asscaffoldingforbuildingconstructionandIunderstanditisstillusedtoday.Thespecies of bamboo used for cutting boards absorbs very little moisture andconsequentlydoesnotshrinkorswellasmuchashardwoods.

Tom Sullivan of Totally Bamboo, one of the leading importers of bambooboards,notes thatbamboocuttingboards require the samecare asotherwoodboards.Theverdictisnotyetinonwhethertheadditionalhardnessofbambooisassafeasmaplefordelicateknifeedges.Itisalsonotyetknownhowlongthelayers of laminated bamboowill hold togetherwith repeated use. In addition,bambooboardsdonotyethave theNationalSanitationFoundation’s stampofapproval,asdomanywoodenandplasticboards.Theycertainlyhaveasmuchvisualappealashandcraftedwoodenboards.Someofthestripsareleftintheirnatural color; some are steamed to darken the bamboo. This accounts for thespiffy-lookingtwo-toneboards.

Youcanalsofindhandmade,sometimesone-of-a-kindboardsatjuriedcraftfairs.Besuretoaskaboutthetypeofwoodused,theboard’ssuitabilityforfoodpreparation,andthemaintenanceitwillrequire.Alsoaskiftheboardshavebeenoiledandwithwhat.Ifseveraldifferentwoodshavebeenused,askiftheyhavethesamedensityandexpansion-shrinkagerate.Theseareallthingsyouneedtoknow.

Donotbuyanycuttingboardthatappearstohaveahigh-glossfinishorfilmon it.Theactionof theknifeon theboardwillcause the finish to flakeand itmayendupinyourfood.

ParticleBoardParticleboard isusuallymade fromwood fragments (chips and shavings) thatare bonded with resin, below. The Snow River Wood Products companymanufacturers a dishwasher-safe cutting board made from a high-densitymaterial that itclaims“farexceedsthedensityofconventionalparticleboard,”towhichtheyapplyatopandbottomveneer.Sincemostpeopleusingthisboardwill put it in the dishwasher after each use, there is little point in applyingmineraloil.

PlasticPlastic boards might be labeled as polyethylene, polypropylene, or just plainpoly.Thesearealldishwashersafe,ifthatisyourintention.

Beforemakingadecision,raptheboardwithyourknuckles.Thelouderthesound, the harder the board. These will take the greatest toll on your knife’sedge.Considertheboardiftherapproducesathudratherthanaclunk.Aboardwithveryshiny,reflectivesurfaceisonetoavoid.Someboardshaveaslightlytexturedsurface,andIhavefound these tobekinder tomyknife’sedgewhenforcedtousethem.

Despite washing, some plastic boards tend to discolor with prolonged use.Carrot, red pepper, and parsley stains might be your constant companions.Finally,thenumberonereasonIusuallyavoidplasticisthatmyknivesjustdon’tglideaswellonplasticastheydoonwood.

HardRubberI have worked with hard rubber boards in several schools. The knife alwaysseemstodragandIalwaysfindmyselfexertingmoreeffort.Rubberboardsarevery heavy for their size and thickness and, if placed in the dishwasher, willwarpwithtime.Ihavealsonotedatendencyfortheseboardstoretainodors.

Glass,Marble,orCorianIamdistressedthatthesematerialsarebeingsoldascuttingboards.Allofthesewilldullyourgoodknivesimmediately.Glassisalsounsafebecauseyourknifemayslipwhileyouarecutting.Marbleisintendedforusebybakersandpastrychefs who need a cool work surface. Corian, a DuPont polymer, is usedprimarilyforcountertops.Unlessyourgoalistodulltheedgeofyourknifeinamatterofseconds,donotusetheseproductsforcutting.

SELECTINGACUTTINGBOARD

Afteryou’vedecidedon the typeofgrainyou’dprefer, thenext considerationshouldbesize.Consideryouravailableworkspace.Ifitisunlimited,purchasethelargestboardyoucancarrytothesink.Consider,too,thesizeofyourlongestchef’s knife. Using a 10-inch blade on a 6-inch-wide board is a crampingexperience. Your board size may also be limited if you have a galley-stylekitchen. In that case,use the longestknife anddeepestboardyoucanmanagewithcomfort.Youmightthinkaboutpurchasingtwoboards—onelargeandonesmallboardfortasksrequiringonlyaparingorutilityknife.

Also consider your height and the height of your counters. The standardheightofakitchencounteris36inches.Placinga3-inch-thickcuttingboardontopofthatisgoingtobequiteuncomfortableforashortercookwhowillhavetostretchupandraiseherarmtocut.Atallerpersonwillhavetobendorspreadhisstancetogetlower.Formostofyourprepwork,yourelbowshouldbebetweenthebottomofyourribcageandthetopofyourhipboneandalmostneverabovemidchest.

I’m5 feet 4 inches and shrinking, and I hadmyworktable custombuilt sothatthestandis33incheshighandtheedge-graintablesurfaceis6feet×3feet×2inches.(Idonotcutonthissurface.)Mybiggestboardsare24×16×1¼inchesand20×15½×½inches.Thesmallestis14×10×¾inches.Atthetotalheight—tableplusboard—IamalwayscomfortablewhenIprep.

You tall folksmight consider a thick board. Remember, though, that thickboards are heavy.An 18 × 12 × 3-inch end-grain board canweigh almost 20pounds.Go20×15×3inchesandyou’repressingabout25pounds.3-inch-highedge-grainboardswillbelighter.Fortallcooks,oneoftheadvantagesofawoodboard over a plastic one is that you have the choice of different thicknesses.Plasticboardsareusuallynomorethan1inchthick.Youmightconsiderhavinga stable platform built to get yourwork surface raised. Your goal is to avoidhaving to stoop or spread your stance. It’s rather difficult to make yourselfshorter,sotrytogetyourworksurfacetoaccommodateyourheight.

Ifyouroastmeatorpoultry,consideratwo-sidedcarvingboard.Onesideisroutedaroundtheouteredgetocapturethejuicesfromtheroast,whiletheotherside is a standard, flat cutting board. Consider buying a board with routedhandles such as the one shown above made by John Boos & Company. Thegroovedhandlesmakeforeasyliftingtohelpmegetthosepreciousjuicestotheroastingpanorskilletwherethesauceisbeingprepared.

If you are thinking about buying a board with little rounded plastic feetscrewedinorgluedatthecorners,rememberthatthefeetraisetheboard,sothatmust be taken into account when calculating the desired height of your workspace.A footedboard isaone-sidedboard—even ifyouunscrew the feet, thescrewholescouldharborbacteria.Allmycuttingboardsare two-sided—twiceasmuchusefromoneboard.

Finally,consideraboard’saestheticproperties.Woodhastheability,likefinefurniture, to age gracefully and acquire awarm and prized patina, if properlymaintained.Ihavebeentoldthatusedbutcherblocksareworthmorethannewones. Wood certainly has a lot more visual appeal than plastic, so once youdiscover how safewood is to use, get the board or boards that best suit yourneedsandpocketbook.

MAINTAININGWOODENBOARDS

Youwillhaveabetterunderstandingofhow tocare foryourwoodenboard ifyou know a little more about the product. Wood is a hygroscopic entity—itabsorbsmoisturefromtheair.Kiln-driedwoodhasamoisturecontentof6to8percent.Itwillabsorbmoistureandswellinhighhumidity,andreleasemoistureandshrinkinlowhumidity.Thiscycleoccursmorefrequentlyiftheboardlivesinanareawithdistinctseasonalchanges.Theexpansionoccursalongthegluededgesoftheboard.Don’tworry—theglueexpandstoo.BallyBoardpresidentJames Reichart asserts that the growth can be as much as ½ inch in humidseasons.AmovefromFloridatoArizonawillshrinkyourboard.AccordingtoReichart,theexpansion-contractioncyclewilldiminishastheboardgetsolder.Itacclimates itself as it ages. The wood experts at upstate NewYork’s CatskillCraftsmen, awholesaler of boards and blocks, note that a board shipped to adrierclimatemayarriveslightlywarpedbutthatitwillflattenitselfoutinafewdays,oncethemoisturecontentfindsitsequilibrium.

With proper care, your wooden boards, particularly end-and edge-grainboards, will be passed on to the next generation. Here’s how to make thathappen:•Donotplacewoodenboardsinthedishwasher.Theprolongedcontactwithwaterwillswellthewoodandthedryingcyclewillimmediatelyshrinkit.Wooddoes not like rapid changes in environment. If it dries too rapidly, the surfacedriesfasterthantheinsideandresultsinseparationandcracking.Ifforyourownpeace of mind (the germs!) youmust use the dishwasher, use plastic boardsinsteadofwoodenones,butnotethatprolongedheatoftenwarpsevenplastic,soyouwilleventuallyhavetodiscarditandbuyanewone.•Donot leavewoodenboards in the sink.Washyour boards after eachusewithhot,soapywater;rinseanddrythemimmediatelyandthoroughly,includingtheedges.(Iusepapertowelsfordrying.)

Bacteria thrive on moisture and do not like an acidic environment. JoeEmerichofJohnBoos&Companystates that, inaddition towashing,aboardcanbefurthersanitizedwithasolutionof2or3tablespoonsvinegarto2cupswater. Apply to the board’s surface with a sponge, let it stand for severalminutes, then rinse and dry thoroughly. You can also keep some plain whitevinegar in a spray bottle for this purpose. I have also used a cut lemon as asanitizer.Rubiton,letitsitaminuteortwo,rinseitoff,thenletitdry.Emerichdiscouragestheuseofanykindofbleachsolutiononwoodenboards,thoughitisoftenusedonplastic.EdmundZottolaoftheUniversityofMinnesotainSaintPaul notes that the organic structure of wood reacts with bleach, rendering ituselessand“unavailableforkillinggerms.”Heconcludesthat“cookshavetobe

satisfiedwith justbathing theircuttingboards.”Thatwouldbeaquickbath inhot,soapywater.•Keepboardsawayfrommoistordampareas.Avoidstandingyourboardupagainst the sink’s back-splash. After washing and drying, store boards in anupright position with separation between boards if you have more than one.Makesurethecounteronwhichtheboardisrestingisdry,becausetheendsarewhere most moisture enters and eventually warps and cracks the board,especiallyifitisflatgrain.Aseriouslywarpedboardshouldbediscarded.

Aboardisconsideredcrackedwhengapsappearbetweenthegluedpieces.Ifthecracks(thetechnicaltermsis“checks”)areinyourcuttingarea,discardtheboard.Itisahealthhazard.Ifthecracksareattheveryends,theboardmaystillbeusable.•Keepboardsawayfromanyheatsource.Storingboardsneararadiatorcanleadtoexcessshrinkage,andpossiblywarpingandcracking.• Oil your board periodically. Most boards come oil finished from themanufacturer.Oneofthelastproductionstepsistolowerarackofboardsintoavat of some form of food-grade oil, lift them out, and let them hang to dryslowly.Thetruthisthataboard’ssurfaceisneverfinished.Applyingoiltothesurface is an ongoing process for the life of the board. Itwill fill thewood’spores and make your cutting surface more impervious to food particles andliquids. It prevents food staining and also alleviates some of the expansion-shrinkagetraumaastheboardadaptstoenvironmentalhumidity.

Theoldadagethatanewboardhastobeoiledonceadayforaweek,onceaweekforamonth,andonceamonthforayearsoundslikeagoodrule,butit’snotnecessarilyso.ThemanufacturersIspokewithsuggestedyouapplyatleastonecoatofoilbeforefirstuseandperiodicallythereafter,usuallyonceaweek,dependingonusage,boardstoragehabits, and thehumidityconditions inyourhouse,particularly in thekitchen.Nooneconfirmedtheoldadage,butyoudohave to be diligent. Check your new board—if it has a slight luster and feelssmoothtothetouch,ithasbeengivenanoilbathatthefactory.

Irecentlypurchasedaboardthatlookedlightincolorandalsohadaslightlygrainysurfacetexture,asuresignthatithadnotbeenthoroughlysandedatthefactory. I gave it a gentle sanding,washed it, and dried it thoroughly. SeveralhourslaterIappliedmyownoilfinish,repeatingtheapplicationseveraltimesonbothsidesbeforeputtingittouse.

Repeated washing with soap and hot water will remove much of this oilfinish.Oildarkenstheboardeversoslightly,socheckforfadingandalackofsurfacelusterasasignthatit’stimetore-oilyourboard.

Thereareseveralreadilyavailableproductsthatwillhelpprotectyourboardand prolong its useful life. Do not use any kind of cooking oil—it will turnrancid.Food-grademineraloil,foundinthelaxativesectionofyourdrugstore,iswhatIhavebeenusingformanyyears.Itisaninexpensive,nontoxicpetroleumderivativethatdoesnotrequirerefrigeration.Itdoesnotofferlastingprotection,butneitherdoesanythingelse.

AlLadd,amakerofspecialtyhardwoodboards, recommendswalnutoil, towhich he also adds beeswax. I’m a bit leery of walnut oil, as it turns rancideasily.Itshouldbestoredintherefrigerator.

Almosteveryboardmanufacturersellsaproprietaryoilandmostofthemarenothingmore thanmineraloilwithbeeswaxorotheradditions, suchas lemonoil. Beeswax adds a little more protection but is not a permanent solution.Regularwashingofyourboards requiresperiodic surface treatment, nomatterwhatoilyouuse.

Donotoilyourboardimmediatelyafterwashinganddryingit.Letitair-dryforseveralhoursorovernight.Whenready,warmtheoilinapansetoverlow,direct heat for nomore than 10 seconds.Depending on the size of the board,you’llneedabout3tablespoonsforan18×14-inchboard,2tablespoonsforasmaller one. End-grain boards will absorb more oil than edge-or flat-grainboards.

Poursomeoilontheboardandrubitinwithasoftcloth,followingthegrain.Besuretooilallthewaytotheedges,especiallythesides,wherethereismoremoisture loss thanon thecutting surface.Work theoil in,vigorouslywipeoffany excess, then allow the board to sit for several hours. If it is a two-sidedboard,rememberwhichsideyoujustoiledand,whentimepermits,dotheotherside.

SCOREMARKS

Afterprolongeduse,youwillbegintoseescoremarksonyourboardespeciallyin theareawhereyoudomostofyourknifework.Aone-piecemapleboard Ipickedupatafleamarketforapittancehadwhatappearedtobeabadlyscoredsurface,seebelow.Actually,aquickbrushofmyhandrevealedthatthedamagewassuperficial.Athome,Igaveitalighthandsandingwithamediumgrit(220isfine)sandpaper,thenoiledit.Scoremarksdonotoffendmysensibilitiesandthe board is still in use after many years of faithful service. For illustrationpurposes,acoatingofmineraloilwasappliedtotheleftsideoftheboardbeforethepicturewastaken.Notethecolordifference.

GUNK

This30-year-oldflat-grainboard,below,hadbeensittinginmybasement,aloneandforsakenformanyyears.Asanexperiment, Idecided tosee if itcouldbeputback into service.After thoroughwashinganddrying, the surface still feltrather tacky so I gave it a thorough going-over with a stainless-steel benchscraper. Scraping removes much of the stickiness that can build up on aneglectedwoodenboard.

Ittookabitofdoing,buteventuallythetackysurfacefromtheresidueofoldoilwasremoved.Aftersandingtheboardagainwithamedium-gritsandpaper,Iwashedanddrieditthoroughlybutdidnotoilit(fordemonstrationpurposes)—note how pale and dry it looks. Several coats of mineral oil will restore thesurface.

Now that you have a good grasp ofwhat the knivesare,let’sexplorehowtousethemproperly,efficiently,andpainlessly.Manyofmy students admit that prepping for a meal often results in muscular stress,especiallyintheupperarm,shoulders,andneck.Thetruthispreppingdoesnothavetobeachore.

GETTINGAGRIP

Good knife skills begin with a correct grip. An incorrect one will causeunnecessarymuscletensionandwithit,fatigueandfrustration.Youareprobablywillingtopayalotofmoneytohaveyourgolfortennisgripimproved.Whynotthinkofyourknifeinthesameway?Youuseitalmosteveryday.Inthatrespect,the knife is no different from any other tool. Grip a hammer, screwdriver,woodenspoon,orwirewhiskinawaythatdoesnotgiveyouthemostefficientmotionandallthosetoolsbecomeunnecessarilydifficulttouse.We’llstartwiththe8-and10-inchknivesastheyrequireagripthatisdifferentfromtheoneusedonsmallerknives.Atthispointyoumightwanttoreviewthepartsoftheknife,astheywillbereferencedofteninthischapter.

Thehandleoftheknifeisthefirstthingthatgreetsyourhandwhenyoustartyour prep work. How you greet your knife will determine how effective andtension-freeyourprepsessionwillbe.

Pinch the sides of the heel just above the bolster with your thumb andforefinger.Thesecondjointofyourindexfingerorthereaboutsshouldberestingjustabovethespineoftheknifeandshouldbeliftedenoughsoitisoutofthewayofthebladeedge.Gentlycurltheremainingthreefingersaroundthehandlewithyourmiddlefingerplacedupagainstthefingerguard.Thereshouldbenogap between the handle and your palm, and the back of your hand should befacingup.Thisgripallowsforthegreatestfreedomofmovement.Remembertokeep your shoulder down and yourwrist flexible.Avoid clenching the handle

likeahammer,holdingthehandlenear thebutt,orplacingthethumborindexfingeronthespineoftheblade(althoughthispositionissometimesuseful),asallofthesegripsleadtounnecessaryarmandwristtension.

Ifthebolsterdoesnothaveafingerguardorchoil,pinchingtheheelwiththethumbandforefingerandthesubsequentwraparoundthehandlewillstillgiveyouthecorrectgrip.

If you have long fingers and the grip on a standard blade feels cramped,consider a blade with a wider heel such as those made by Wüsthof andMessermeister.

Ifyouwantyourprepwork tobeas tension-free aspossible, it is essentialthatyougiveupthetightgrip.OvertheyearsIhaveobservedthistendencytogrip the knife handle too tightly—I have seenwhite knuckles from across theroom—evenafterthepropergriphasbeenmastered.

Inthinkingabouttheproblem,Icametotherealizationthatmanyofyouhaveassumed, observed, or learned that the proper way to cut is to press straightdownwith somepart of the knife. Perhaps there is also the assumption that atightgripassurescontrol.Ibelievejusttheoppositetobetrue.

Oneof thefirst thingsmanystudentsdowhen theysettle inat theircuttingboardsispickupthechef’sknifeandplacethetipontheboardwhilepressingtheheelstraightdown.Theknifeisnotanaxethatrequiresbluntdownwardorsidewardforcetodoitsjob.Insteaditworksbestwhenitglidesthroughasitispushed or pulled, not simply pressed downward or laterally, which merelycrusheswhateveryouaretyingtocut.IfIweretocomparetheknifetoanytoolit would be to the handsaw not the axe. Clenching the handle and exertingdownwardforceresultsintensionandthat’swhatyouwanttoavoid.

“Themostperfecttechniqueisthatwhichisnotnoticedatall.”

—PabloCasals

Toself-testthetightgripandbecomeawareofthetensionitcreates,gripthechef’s knife or any long knife using the proper technique described above.Lightlycircleyourwristwithyourfreehandandtightenthegriponthehandle.Youwillfeelthemusclestighten.Repeatthisexercisewhilecirclingthebicepofyour knife armwith your free hand.Again youwill feel yourmuscle tighten.The tight grip is the hardest habit for new students to become aware of andovercome,becauseitissodeeplyingrainedinthemusclememoryfromyearsofuse. If you are having tension problems in a sport, you know that changingmusclehabitstakesunderstanding,concentration,andlotsofrepetition,tomakethenecessarychanges.Thesamegoesforknifeskills.

Ihavehadstudentstellmetheyknowtheirgripistootightbuttheyjustcan’tbreakthehabit.Ihopethatbypracticingthetechniquesinthissectionyouwillbecomeawareofthewhite-knucklesyndromeanditseffectsoneverythingyoutry to cut. Ultimately, you are the only one who can recognize and alter thishabit.

TheOtherHandI’msureyouareawarefromwatchingcookingshowsorsomeonewhohasgoodknifeskills, thatslicinganddicingrequirestwohands.Theotherhandisoftenreferred to as the guide hand or, as I shall refer to it, the holding hand. Itspurposeisbothtoholdthefooddownandtoguidetheknifesothatyourpiecesare evenly cut and thus evenly cooked. There are several ways to shape theholdinghand,dependingontheobjectbeingcut.

FingersClosed•Formacirclewiththethumbandindexfingermakingsurethat thethumbisplacedbehindtheindexfingerforsafetyreasons.•Curltheremainingfingerssothattheylineupwiththeindexfinger.Notethatthemiddlefingerextendsbeyondtheothers.•Curlthefirstjointsslightlyunder.Themiddlejointofthemiddlefingershouldbe at a right angle to the cutting board. This is the knife’s guide and stopper.Holdthearmasthoughitwereinasling—knifeandholdinghandsshouldnowbeperpendicular.•Gentlyplace thepadsof the fingerson the itembeing cut.Keep the fingerstogether and relaxed. Before you pick up the knife, practice by placing theholdinghandinthefingers-closedpositiononthecuttingboard,holdingthearmas though itwere a sling.Creep the thumb back¼ inch, then bring the otherfingers back to meet the thumb. Repeat several times until it begins to feelnatural.•Placethepalmoftheknifehandagainsttheholdinghandandkeepitthereasitmovestotheleft(orright).Thiscoordinatedmotiontakessomepracticebutiswellworththeeffort.Ifyouhavelearnedtotapyourheadandrubyourbellyatthesametime,youcandothis.•Nowtrythisholdingthechef’sknife.Placetheflatsideofthebladeupagainstthe middle joint of your middle finger and move the blade forward andbackward,keepingtheknifeontheboard.Atthispointfearcanoftentakeover.Youthinkyouaregoingtocutyourself,butIguaranteethatyouwon’t.Youcanrubtheknifeagainstthatmiddlefingeralldaylongandwillnotcutyourselfaslongasyoumaintaintheproperholding-handandknifepositions.•Creeptheholdinghandtotheleftorright,keepingthebladeincontactwiththemiddle finger.Assoonas theknifehascrossed thecenterofyourbody,movethefoodbacktothestartingposition.Repeatseveraltimesuntilitbeginstofeel

natural.Whenyouactuallystartcuttingrealfood,don’ttryforspeedorbecomeobsessiveaboutevenlysizedpiecesatfirst.

For those still notquite ready toplace the flat sideof theknife against thefingers,placetheholdinghandontopofthefoodyouarecutting,about2inchesfromtheend.(Placingyourguidehandtoofarfromtheknifecreatesinstability.Yourfooditemcanwobble,makingitdifficulttoachieveevenlysizedpieces.)Slowly push the food toward the stationary knife and reposition your holdinghandwhennecessary.

Herearesomecommonmistakespeoplemakewiththeholdinghand:1.Makingafistwiththethumbtuckedinside(probablytoprotectthefingernails)andknucklesveryclosetotheboard.2.Extendingthefingersalmostflatagainsttheitemyouaretryingtocut.3.Tuckingthefingersunderandhavingyourthumbextendbeyondyourknuckles.These mistakes leave the knuckles, fingertips, or thumb exposed to the

oncomingbladeandanalmostcertain(butavoidable)accident.Theknifehasnoconscience—itwillcutwhateveritencountersfirst.

FingersOpenUse this position to stabilize whole, large, round fruits and vegetables, likeonions,tomatoes,andeggplants.•Curlthefingersasforthefingers-closedgrip.•Inthecenteroftheobjecttobesliced,spreadthefingersacrossthetophalfsothethumbandpinkyareonoppositesidesandtheremainingfingersarespacedacrossthetop.•Creepthefingersbacktogetthedesiredthickness.

FingersBunchedUsedthispositiontosliceormincesmallitemssuchasgarlic,leeks,orshallots.Thispositionissimilar to thefingers-closedgripexcept thatall thefingersarebunchedaroundthethumb.Themiddlefingerisstillthestopper.Thearmisstillintheslingposition.

TheNo-RollHoldUse thisposition to cut awhole carrotor anything that could roll as theknifemakescontact.•Placetheindexfingerontopoftheitemwiththesecondjointatarightangletothefood—thisisthestopper.Thumbandmiddlefingerareslightlybehindtheindexfingeronoppositesidesoftheitem.Thebackoftheitemislightlyheldinplacebyyourpalm.•Creepthehandbackwitheachstrokeoftheknifeforthenextcut.

ThePalm-on-TopHoldUsethispositiontocutbagelsandrolls,butterflycutsofmeat,andgetthoselastfewslicesfromlarge,roundfruitsandvegetables.•Placethewholepalmdirectlyontopoftheitemyouarecutting.•Withtheknifepositionedparalleltotheboard,pushforwardforbagels,rolls,andsheetcakes,orpullforchickenbreastsandchops.

TheArcHoldUse this technique for greater stabilitywhen cutting a carrot or shallot in halflengthwiseormakingthatlastpullnearthethumboftheholdinghand.•Holdthethumbandthemiddle,orseveralfingersoneithersideoftheitem.•Place theknife through thearcandmakeanangledcuteitherbypushingorpulling.

Thesearethebasicpositionsoftheguidehand.Otherswillbeintroducedaswe work through the various techniques. You may even discover your owncomfortable positions. In the next section you’ll put it all together using thechef’sknife.

KNIFEPOSITIONS

Almosteverythingthatneedstobepreppedintheaveragekitchencanbedoneusingjustafewpositionsofthisknife.Thesepositionsarenotexclusivetothechef’sknifebutcanalsobeusedwiththecarving,paring,andutilityknife.

PerpendicularMuch of what you normally cut, whether it is ½ or 5 inches thick, uses thisposition, in which the blade is held perpendicular to the board. There aredifferenttechniquesforcuttinglowandhighitemsbutthe90-degreeanglethattheknifeformswiththeboarddoesnotchange.Thebladeiseitherangleddowntopushorup(tiphigherthanhandle)topull.

ParallelIn this position the blade is held parallel to the board. Your knuckles faceoutwardforthisone,asforthepalm-on-tophold.Itisusedwhendicingonions,getting those last fewslices,and removing thespongyportionofbellpeppers.With other knives, the parallel position is used for cutting fruits, bagels, androlls; for cutting Italian-style bread in half for sandwiches; and for cuttingspongeandsheetcakesintolayers.Theknifeisplacedagainsttheitembeingcutwiththetippointingstraightaheadandispushedforward,neverlaterally,withslightpressure,towardstheholdinghand.Attheendofthepush,pulltheknifebackinthegroovejustcutandrepeatthismotion,whichmightbestbedescribedasazigzag.

AngledInthispositionthebladeisplacedata45-degreeangletotheitem.Itisusedforcuttingmeatandvegetablesonthebias,asinthephotoshownabove.

CUTTINGSTANCE

Beforedoinganyactual cutting,youandyourboardneed toget in theproperposition.Togetthebestellipticalmotionfromtheknifearm,standback7or8inches from the cutting board. If you’re too close to the board, youwill feelcrampedandcouldclampyourupperarmtoyourribs—notagoodthingtodowhenyouaretryingtoachievearelaxedandfluidmotion.Youshouldhave3to4inchesofspacebetweenyourelbowandyourribcage.Ifyou’retooclosetotheboard,youwillalsohavetoplacetheitembeingcutatthecenterorfaredgeoftheboard,which,whenyou’reusingsmallerknives,causesyourknucklestohittheboard.Youwillwanttohavethefooditem2to3inchesfromthefrontofthecuttingboardandcentered.Theboardshouldbeflushwiththefrontedgeofyourworktable.

ParallelStance/AngledKnifeStandwithyourtorsoparalleltotheboard,feetunderyourshoulders,soyoufeelcentered and balanced. Angle the knife slightly to the left if you are right-handed.Thetipoftheknifepointstowardthecenterofthefaredgeoftheboard.Togetastraightcut,anglethefoodtokeepitandtheknifeatrightangles.

AngledStance/KnifeStraightAheadStandata45-degreeangletotheboard,facingrightorleft,andplantyourfeetsquarelyunderyourshoulders.Holdtheknifeparallel to thesideof theboard,tippointingstraightahead.Togetastraightcut,anglethefoodtokeepitandtheknifeatrightangles.

Nomatterwhichstanceyouchoose,avoidexcessivearmangles—thetipoftheknifefacingthefarcorner—thatcreateupper-armandshouldertension.

CUTTINGLOWANDHIGHITEMS

Onceyoudeterminewhichcuttingstanceismostcomfortableandwhichknifepositionisbestsuitedforthejob,youneedtodecidewhethertheitemyouarecuttingisloworhigh.Astalkofceleryislow;anonion,potato,oragrapefruitishigh.Lowitemsrequireaverydifferenttechniquefromhighitems.Askyourselfthesequestionstobesureyouareusingthecorrecttechniqueforeach.

1.Whereisthetipoftheknifeplacedatthestartofthecut?

Low:ontheboard.

High:ontopoftheitem,alittleaheadoftheitembeingcut,tipangleddown.

2.Istheknifepushedorpulledtodothecutting?

Low:pushedawayfromyou.

High:pushedawayfromyou;asthetipreachestheboard,begindecreasingtheangleofthebladeuntilitisflushwiththeboard.

3.Whatpartandhowmuchofthebladeisneededtodothecutting?Low:onlythebackhalf(orless)oftheblade.High:alongerportionoftheblade,usingthesameforward-downwardmotion.

4.Howisthekniferepositionedforthenextcut?Low:handleisliftedandtipisdraggedbacktostartthenextcut.

High: blade is lifted straight up, angled, and put intomotion before it makescontactwiththetopoftheitem.

TheLowTechniqueInthelowtechnique,somepartofthebladeedgeisonthecuttingboardatalltimesandthetipnevertiltsup.Inthestartingposition,thetipisplacedontheboardandtheheelisraised.Intheendposition,theflatofthebladeisflushwiththeboardandthetipispointedstraightahead.

Dependingonthelengthofthebladeused,theactualcuttingisdonebetweenthemiddle and the heel of the blade, not near the tip.The forward-downwardstrokebrings thebackhalfof theknife flush to theboard.Afterwhatyouarecuttinghas been separated from themain piece, the forwardmotion continues

untiltheheelofthebladereachesthefooditem.Thatiscalledfollow-through.Itis not a full stop, an action that will flex the biceps. Immediately after thefollow-through,withoutstoppingthemotion,thehandleisraisedhighenoughtoclear the itembeingcutand,at thesame time, the tip ispulledbackalong theboardtostarttheswooplike,forward-downwardprocessagainforthenextcut.Thehandleliftandpullbackareonemotion.

This is really a continuous, elliptical sequenceofmotions,not apush-stop-pull-stop sequence. Stopping tenses the upper arm and interrupts the flow.Soundseasybutit’snot.Practicethemotionfirstwithoutcuttinganyfood.Thenplacealowitem,suchasastalkofcelery,ontheboard.

Thetechniquesdescribednextrequirethattheknifebepushed,notpulledtomake the actual cut. Pulling is a legitimate technique that is used in specialcircumstances. I have observed that those who belong to the “I don’t useanythinglargerthanasteakknife”schoolofcuttinghaveadifficulttimemakingthetransitiontothepushmethod.Inmostcases,theforward-pushingmotionisamore efficient use of arm and shoulder strength than pulling backward. I’mgoingtoassumethatyouhaveatleastan8-inchchef’sknife.Donotattemptthistechniquewithanythingsmaller.

1.Putthecelery3to4inchesfromthefrontedgeofyourboard,eitherangledorstraightaccordingtoyourpreferredstance.

2.Placethetipoftheknifeontheboardwiththeheeldirectlyoverthecelerywiththeholdinghandinplace.

3.Raiseandpulltheknifebackuntilyoureachthecenteroftheblade.

4.Pushtheknifeforwardasyouloweritgradually(forwardanddown—notdownandforward,thedreadedpress-downtechnique),separatingtheceleryslicefromthestalkgraduallyasthebackhalfoftheknifemeetstheboardandglidesforward.Thetipofthebladeisnowraisedofftheboardduetothecurveoftheblade,andtherestoftheedgeorthebackhalfisontheboard.

5.Continuetheforward,glidingmotionuntilthebolsterisnearthefooditem.Thisisthefollow-through,whichcompletestheseparationoftheslicefromthemainitemandrelaxestheupperarm.

6.Attheveryendofthefollow-through,withoutstoppingthemotion,liftthehandleanddragthetipbackuntiltheknifeiscenteredovertheceleryagain,movetheholdinghand,andimmediatelymakethenextcut.

Learning anew seriesofmusclemovements is difficult and takes timeandpractice,sopleasebepatient.Inmyclasses,Ihavethreehourstochangelong-standingmusclememoryhabits.Youhavetherestofyourlife.

UsingaLongerChef’sKnifeIfyouusedan8-inchchef’sknifefortheceleryexercise,trythesametechniqueofcuttingsomethinglowwitha10-inchknife.Thesequenceofmovementsusedwiththe8-inchknifedoesnotchange.Youstillplacethetipontheboard,andpushandmakethecutwithaforward-downwardmotionandafollow-through.Butwhenyouraisethehandleandpullbackonthetiptoreturntoyourstartingposition, youwill raise andpull theknife backuntil you reach the last 3 to 4inches rather than the center of the blade, then continue the forward, glidingmotionuntilthebolsterreachesthefooditem.

Thephotosbelowshowaside-by-sidecomparison.Whenyoucutalowitemwiththe8-inchknife,youneedthebackhalfofthe

bladetomakethecutandfollowthrough.Ifyoustartthecuttoofarbackontheblade,youwillrunoutofroomandinstinctivelypressdown.Ifyoustartthecutnearer to the tip, youwill have to raiseyour elbowhigher thannecessary andcreate side-muscle stress. The beauty of the 10-inch blade is that its extra 2inches of length also provide additional heft. It permits the cutting of smallpieces much farther back on the blade where there is more weight. It is notefficienttocutsomething1inchwidewith5or6inchesofblade.Youneedatmost3inches,andsinceyouhavemoreweighttoworkwith,yourmuscleswillhavetoworkless.Finally,sincethebladeislonger,youhavemoreoptionsastohow much blade to use, whether to use a long stroke or a short stroke, forexample.Smalleritemsrequirelessoftheblade.Thisistrueforboth8-and10-inchblades. Ifyour itemiswider, the longerbladehasaclearadvantage.Youhavefeweroptionswithshorterknives.Withpracticeyouwillfigureoutexactlyhowmuchbladeisnecessarytomakethecutandgetaproperfollow-through.

TheHighTechniqueTheextralengthandweightthatarehelpfulwhencuttinglowitemsareequallyuseful in dealing with high items, such as potatoes, onions, peppers, andpineapples. I use a large, well-tapered carrot in class to demonstrate thedifferencebetweenthetwotechniques.Thetipofthecarrotandmaybethefirsthalfcanbecutusingthelowtechnique.Asthegirthincreases,however,tryingto keep the tip of the knife on the board begins to cause stress—your elbowstarts to raise to armpit height, the side muscles stretch upward, and your

shoulderhunchesforward.Earlier Icomparedaknife toahandsaw—bothareangleddown,cuton the

push,andarepulledbacktocontinuecuttingwithanotherpush.Thefulllengthofthehandsawisutilizedtoachievethecut.Perpendicularcuttingisdonewiththe tip of the knife angled up or down, and always down when pushing.Sometimes theknife is kept in thegroove that has just been cut, sometimes anewcutismade.Evenlowitemsarecutatanangle.Assoonasyouhavethetipontheboardandthehandleraised,theknifeisautomaticallyangleddownward.Itstraightensoutjustbeforethefollow-through.Iftheimportanceofpushingatadownwardangleescapedyouasyoulearnedandpracticedthelowtechnique,the lesson on the high technique will give you another chance. Review thequestionsandanswers,nowthatyouhavelearnedthelowtechnique,toseehowthehightechniquediffers.

Inthehightechnique,thetipisnotplacedontheboardbutontopofandalittleaheadoftheitemtobecut,anditisangleddownward.Theknifeispusheduntilthetipreachesorisneartheboard.Thehandleisloweredgraduallyandtheangleofthebladedecreasesuntilitisflushwiththeboard.Duringthismotion,donotpressdownonthehandleandallowthetipoftheknifetocomeupsothespineisparalleltotheboard.Themomentthathappens,youwillhavetopressdowntocompletethecut.

Comparedtothelowtechnique,thehightechniquerequiresalongerportionofthebladetomakethecut,butitusesthesameforward-downwardmotionasthelowtechnique.Themorebladeyouuse, thebetteryoucanfollowthrough,andthelesstensionyouproduceintheupperarmbecauseyouareusingpropertechniqueinsteadofpressingdown.

Attheendofthefollow-through,whilethebladeisstillmovingforward,theknifeisliftedstraightupofftheboardwhiletheholdinghandismovedbackthedesireddistance.Theblade is angledandbroughtback to the startingpositionandtheforward-downwardmotionisrepeatedforthenextcutbeforetheknifemakescontactwiththefooditem.

Thereisatendencytopressdownwiththetiptostarteachcut.Don’t!Anystrictlydownwardforceoftheknifecreatestensioninthegripandupperarm.Toget a fluid, repetitive motion, start the cut with the knife already movingforward.Asyoubring theknifeup,backandangled, start the forwardmotionwhenthetipiscloseto,butnotonthefood.Trustme—withpractice,you’llbeable tomaster thismovementandfeelhowthefluidmotion increases theeaseandeffectivenessofyourcutting.

Beforeyoutrythiswithknifeinhand,simulatethemotionwithyourholdinghand in place and your open palm acting as the knife. If you need a high-techniquemantra try, “Forwardanddown,glide and follow through, lift, backandangle,moveholdinghand,cutagain.”

AdjustingforDifferentHeightsAcarrot isnotapotatoisnotapineapple.Thestartingdownwardangleof theknife does not increase in direct proportion to the height of the item you arecutting. If your elbow is above your chin, you’re not doing this correctly. Toachieve height for this technique, raise and angle the bladewith your forearm

ratherthanyourelbow.Above,aresamplepositionsforacarrot,apotato,alargeonion,andapineapple.Notethattheangleofthebladeremainsfairlyconsistent,andthattheforearmandelbowmaintaintheirangleasthebladeisraised.Theonly thing that changes is the size of the object being cut.Going back to thehandsawanalogy,afteryoumakeyourpushedandangledcut,youpullthesawbackinthegrooveyouhavejustmade,thenpushagainatthesameangle,thuscuttingdeeperanddeeperintotheboarduntilitisseparated.Highfooditemsarecut the same way. It is not always possible to make the desired cut in onemotion,evenifyouhavethatwonderful10-inchchef’sknife.

Whencuttingalargeonion,eggplant,orcabbage,youmayrunoutofbladehalfwayortwo-thirdsofthewaydown.Insteadofthetechniqueyouusedonthecarrot,pulltheknifebackinthecutyouhavealreadymade,leavinganinchorso of blade exposed on the far side of the item, then push forward and downagain,keepingtheangleconstant.Thebladeonlystraightensoutasyouneartheboard,thenfollowthrough.Seethecabbagephotosbelow.

It’s better tomake two or three of these sawlike cuts than one press down

motion.This isnotaboutbravado—whocancut thatonion inonestroke—butratherabouthavingarelaxed,fluidtechnique.

Howwillyouknowwhenyouareusing thecorrect technique?Yourelbowandupperarmpositionsaswellasyoursidemuscleswill sendyousignals. Ifyourshoulderispushedintoyourneckandyourelbowisparalleltoyourears,you are using thewrong technique.Don’t try to cut somethinghighusing thelowposition.The lengthofyourknife is important toconsider, too: a10-inchbladewillhandlethelowpositionbetterthanan8-inchonecan.

PULLINGAKNIFE

Alltheworksofarhasbeendonewiththeknifebeingpushedawayfromyourbodytodothecutting,withtheknifeangleddownwards.Butsometimesitisnotpossibletopush,forexamplewhenyouneedtocutsomethingintoverticalstripsandstillkeepthemattachedatoneend,asabove.You’llneedthistechniquetodiceanonionandfanastrawberry,amongotherthings.

For the chef’s knife, the following technique will primarily be applied toonions.Observethepositionsoftheknifeatabove.

Placetheheeloftheknifeatthefrontedgeoftheonion—heeldown,tipup.Maintaining the angle, pull the knife back and down.Without stopping yourmotion, raise thehandle topull the tip from thebackof theboard to the frontmakingsureyoufeelthetipontheboardthroughoutthemovement.Pullthetipoff the board to follow through, and without stopping, return to the startingpositionandrepeat.

Mastering the techniques described above will enable you to tackle themajorityoffooditemsinyourprepsessions.Determiningwhichitemsarelowandwhicharehigh,whichneedpushingandwhichneedpullingwilleventuallybecomesecondnature.

CUTTINGASIANSTYLE

ManyAsianrecipescallformeatsandvegetablestobecutonthebias.Thistypeofcutexposesmoresurfaceareatotheheat,sotheitemcooksquickly.ManyoftheChinesecabbages,especiallythoseinthebokchoyfamily,arecutthisway,asarechickenbreast,pork,flanksteak,andfishfillets.EvencelerycanbecutthiswayforsaladsorAsian-styledishes.Hard,solidvegetablessuchascarrotsshouldbecutonthebiaswiththeknifeintheperpendicularposition.

Eitherachef’sknifeorcarvingknifemaybeused—thelongertheknife,the

easier the task.Thekey tomastering this technique is to avoidpressingdownwiththeknifeatthestartofthecut.Forthedepth,placethetipoftheknifeatthestartingpointwithyourfingersoverthebladeedge.Withaverylowangle(about10degrees)andalmostnodownwardpressure,pushforwarduntilthetipmeets the board, then pull to separate, keeping the tip on the board. Thethickness of the slice is determined by the knife’s angle. A high angle yieldsthick pieces and less surface area, a low angle yields thin pieces and moresurfacearea.Yourfingersareinsulatedbythesliceyouarecutting.

LEARNINGTODICE

Atsomepoint inyourculinary lifeyouaregoing tohave todicesomething—potatoesforachowder,vegetables inaconsommé(aclear, lightbroth).Atruedice results in cubes that are the end product of a series of several otherimportant cuts. You can cut any size dice youwant as long as the slices andstripsarecuttothecorrectthickness.Beforestartingtodice,lookforguidancefrom the recipe.Hopefully itwill giveyou the sizeof thedice—⅛-inchor1inch—becausethatwilldeterminethesizeoftheothercutsyou’llhavetomake.Iusethetermssmall,medium,orlargewhenreferringtodice.Iftheingredientneedstobeaspecificsize,Iprovidethemeasurement.Ifthesizeistoosmalltomeasure then it is commonly called a mince. (One dices onions but mincesshallots.)Ifnomeasurementisgiven,usecommonsense.

>>Everybodycomplainsaboutfoodstickingtotheknife,butyoucanusethistoyouradvantage.Lineupastucksliceorstripwiththeouteredgeofthenextcuttogetevenlysizedpieces.

RoundandSemiroundItemsThis technique can be used for round or semiround items, such as potatoes,turnips,oreggplant,butwe’lluseapotatoasanexample.Oncepeeled,itmustbecutinsuchawaythatyouendupwithallsidesparallel,andthat’snotaseasyasitsounds.Foratruedice,theendsandthesidesoftheitemaregoingtobewasted.

1.Placethepotatoneartheright(orleft)sideofyourboardandusetheboard’sedgetokeepyourcutsstraightandparallel.

2.Usingachef’sknifeandthehightechnique,removebothendswherethepotato’scurvestops.

3.Standthepotatoononeoftheflatendsandremovethecurvedsidesinfourcutstoformalargeblock,tryingtokeepopposingcutsparallel.

4.Decidewhatsizediceyouwant(for¼-inchdice,cut¼-inchslicesandsoon)and,usingthehightechnique,cuttheslicestothedesiredthickness.

5.Stacktwoorthreeslices(becarefulnottostackthemtoohigh—theycouldslip)and,usingthelowtechnique,cutthestripstothedesiredthickness.Turnthestripshorizontallyandcutcrosswisetodiceusingthelowtechnique.

RoundTaperedItemsThistechniquecanbeusedforroundtapereditems,suchascarrotsorparsnips.Thesamesequenceofcutsusedforthepotatoisusedherebutwithoneessentialdifference—you can’t block the entire carrot because of its taper. If you needstripscuttoaspecifiedlength,thenthat’syourguide.Ifthelengthofthestripsisnotyourmainconsideration,cutthelongestsegmentyoucanmanagefromtherootend.Ifthecarrotisthickenough,youmightbeabletocutanotherblockandgetmoreslices,strips,ordicefromit.

1.Peelthecarrotandcuta3-or4-inchpiecefromtherootend.Standthecarrotuprightonthewiderflatendand,usingthehightechnique,removethecurvedsidesinfourcutstoformablock,tryingtokeepopposingcutsparallel.Anothermethodistocutoffoneroundedside,thenplacethecarrotflat-sidedowntoremovetheotherthree.

2.Decidewhatsizediceyouwant(fora¼-inchdice,cut¼-inchslicesandsoon)and,usingthehightechnique,cuttheslicestothedesiredthickness.

3.Usingthelowtechnique,cutthestripstothedesiredthickness.

4.Turnthestripshorizontallycutcrosswisetodiceusingthelowtechnique.

CUTTINGWITHPARINGANDUTILITYKNIVES

While the chef’s knife usually employs one basic grip, the smaller paring orutilitykniferequiresyoutouseavarietyofgripsdependingonhowyouwillbeusing it.Forknives6 inchesor smaller, all thecuttingneeds tobeat thenearedgeoftheboard.Placingtheiteminthemiddleoratthefaredgewillresultinyourknucklespressingintotheboardandraisingthebladeedgeofftheboard.

TheAll-PurposeGripThe following grip, seen above, used for cutting fruits or slicing andmincinggarlicorshallots,worksforboththeparingandtheutilityknifeandisintendedformakingperpendicularorparallelcutseitherpushingorpulling.

Ifyouusethesamegripaswithachef’sknife,yourindexfingerorknuckleswill hit the board as you try to guide the blade forward, preventing a goodfollow-through.Thisall-purposegripkeepsyourfingersawayfromtheheelof

theknifeandallowsyoutousethewholeblade.Placetheindexfingerontopofthebolster,withthethumbandmiddlefinger

rightbehind itonoppositesidesof thehandle.Support thebackof thehandlewithlasttwofingers,restingthebuttinthelowerpalm.

ThePeelingGripsForanyouterskinsthatneedtobepeeled,curlthelastthreefingersaroundthehandle with the blade facing the fingertips. Place the index finger looselyunderneaththeheel,closetothebolster.Thebladecanthenbeinsertedundertheskinoftheitem,startingattheupperrightorleftcorner.Thethumbisclampedover the skinwhich ispulled towards the rootorbase.This technique ismostcommonlyusedwiththeparingknifebutcanalsobeusedwiththeutilityknifefor medium-size items like shallots, or the chef’s knife for large items likeonions.

For peeling round fruits and vegetables, cup the handle with four fingers,bladeangleddown.Placethethumbonthenearsideof theitembeingpeeled.The blade can be straight or angled depending on the item. Rotate the itemtowardtheknifewiththeholdinghand.

TheSnippyGripThisgrip,whatIliketocall“grandma’sgrip,”issimilartothepeelinggripandisusedforslicingstringbeans,bananas,celery,oranythingthatissmallenoughtofitbetweentheknifebladeandyourthumb.Cupthehandlewithfourfingers,bladeedgefacingyourthumb,andpullthebladetowardyourthumbtomakethecut.Donotmovethebladeupordownacrossyourthumb.Thisgripcanbedoneusingaparingknifeora5-to6-inchutilityknife.

TheScrapingGripThis grip, used for removing the skin from ginger or making garlic puree, issimilar to thepeelinggripbut theknifemakesa scraping rather thana slicingmotion,andthespineratherthantheedgeoftheknifedoesthework.

To scrape the skinoff ginger, cup theknifehandlewith four fingers, bladefacingup,andscrapefrombottomtotopwiththespineoftheblade.

Tomakegarlicpuree, support thehandlewith four fingers.Place the indexfingerontheheelwiththebladefacingawayfromyouandangledupatabout

45degrees.Scrapeacrossanddownovertheroundedsurfacewiththespineoftheblade.Followthroughandrepeat.

TheCoringGripTocoretomatoesorstrawberries,orremovebruisedareasoffruit,holdthetipofthepairingknifewiththethumbandindexfingers—thumbacrossthefirstjointoftheindexfingertoforma90-degreeangle,indexfingeratthebottomofthethumbnail—withthebladefacingthefingertips.Restthespineagainstthebaseoftheremainingfingerswiththebolsteratornearthebaseofthepinkyfinger.Gentlycurl theremainingfingerstosupport thespineandhandle.(Youcannotcutyourselfunlessyoupressextraordinarilyhard,andthere isnoreasontodothat.)Theamountofthetipshowingabovethethumbwilldeterminethedepthofthecorebeingremoved—moreforatomato,lessforastrawberry,evenlessfortheeyeofapotato.

Youmightwant to practice the coring techniquewithout the knife at first.Simulatethecoringgripwithyourknifehandand,withthethumbnailfacingup,pushyourthumbintothecenterofthepalmofyourholdinghand,asthoughyouwereremovingacorefromthecenterofyourpalm.Keepyourthumbinplaceasyourotatetheknifehandtowardyousothebackofyourknifehandisfacingup.

Rotate your knife hand back to the starting position (thumbnail up) as yousimultaneouslyturntheholdinghandintheoppositedirection(towardyou).Dothisseveraltimesuntilitbeginstofeelnatural.

Whenyoudo this techniquewith theknife,never removeyour thumbfromthe top of the core until you have made a complete circle around the core(usuallytwoorthreeturns),atwhichpointtheknifeandcorecanbepulledout.Thispreventstheknifefromslippingandcuttingyou.

Thequalityof theknivesyouchoose foryourwardrobe, thewayyouprepthemandthemotionsyouusetocutwilldeterminewhetheryourprepsessionsarestressfulornot.

Chef’s knives employ one basic gripwhether cutting low or high items orwhetherusedintheperpendicular,parallel,orangledpositions.

Thesesamepositionsareusedwith thesmallerknivesbut thegripchangesaccordingtowhat isbeingcut.Notethat inthetechniquesthatfollow,thelowtechniqueisnotusedwiththesmallknives—thebladesaretooshort.

Asyouwork through these techniques,observebothgripandholdinghandpositions.Addthepropercuttingmotionsand,withpractice,yourprepsessionswillbecutinhalf.

The fruitsandvegetables in thischapterwill requiremany of the techniques you have learned so far. Thesuggested knives should be seriously considered, as your goal is to prepwithminimal stress and tension. I generally recommend longer, heavier knives fortacklingbigvegetables.Whereachef’sknifeisindicatedinthetechniquesthatfollow, Iwould use the 10-inch variety but inmany cases an 8-inchwill alsowork.You’llgetverydiscouragedtryingtoshredcabbagewitha6-inchutilityknife.Forgetaboutslicingrutabagas.

Slicingusuallyconnotesaforwardmotion,thatis,theknifeisbeingpushedawayfromyou.Therearetimes,however,whenit ismoreefficient topull theknife toward you. The end result of slicing is to separate a segment from thewhole.

Whenyourealize thataslicecanbefurthercut into thickor thinstripsandthose strips cut crosswise into a dice of any size or a mince, you begin tounderstand and appreciate howbasic slicing is. Iwill use the term slicewhenanyoftheabovetechniquesareemployedandthewordcutifothermethodsareused.SomestripshaveFrenchnames that indicateprecisemeasurements—thejulienneisa⅛-×⅛-inchmatchstickcut1to2incheslong.Thebâtonnetisa¼-×¼-inchstickcutto2or2½inches.Cutthejuliennecrosswiseintoadiceanditiscalledabrunoise.Ilikerecipesthatindicatethesizeoftheslice,strip,ordicerequired.

Notetheomissionofthewordchop,atechniquethatinvolvesastrikingblowdonefromabovewithaheavyknifeorcleaverandaveryflexiblewrist.Despitethe commonuseof theword,mostprepworkdoesnot require chopping.Theknifeisnotablunt-forceinstrument.Itcutsmosteffectivelywhenitispushedorpulled.

CUTTINGTHINGSEVENLY

Inorderforcutitemstocookevenly,theymustbecutintoevenlysizedpieces.ManyyearsagoItookabakingclasswithNickMalgieriatTheNewSchoolinNewYork.Iwatchedhimtakeastickofbutteroutofthewrapper,cutitinhalf,then cut each half in half again, until he had eight perfectly equal tablespoonsegmentseachweighing½ounce.Heneededsix tablespoons—threeounces—anddidnotusetheguidesonthewrapper,orstartcuttingatoneend.Ilearnedfrom that demonstration how important it is to cut things evenly. Decide inadvancewhat thesizeofyourpieces isgoing tobe. Ifyoumakeamistakeorchangeyourmind,getanotherfruitorvegetableandstartover.Donottrytofixthe existing slices or crush them into smaller pieces—they’ll never be evenlysizedandwillnotcookevenly.Thisconceptwillbementionedfrequentlyinthetechniquesthatfollow.

Recipescallformanydifferenttypesofcutsfromvegetables.Tochangetheangleatwhichanitemiscut,keeptheknifeinthestandardpositionandrotatetheitemfroma90-degreeangleforastraightcutto45-degreesorlessforabiascut,shownabove.

DiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:CELERYKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Trimbothendsofthestalkandplaceverticallyontheboard,rounded-sideup.

1.Placethetipoftheknifeaboutaninchpastthefarendofthestalkandmakeaforwardcut2to3inchesinlength.Notetheholdinghandposition.

2.Whenthetipoftheknifeisontheboard,bringtheknifebacktowherethepreviouscutendedandmakeanotherforwardcut.

3.Continueinthisfashionuntiltheheeloftheknifeisoverthenearendofthestalk.Glideforwardanddowntocompletethesplit.

4.Crosscutthesehalvesforalargedice.Forasmallerdice,cuteachhalfinhalfagainlengthwiseandcrosscut.Youcanusethesametechniquetocutthestalkintothreeequalparts.Thesizeofthestripsandthecrosscutdeterminesthefinaldice.

JulienneFRUITORVEGETABLE:CELERYKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

The julienne’smeasurements—⅛ ×⅛-inch—assumes that you are able to cutyourfooditemintoperfectcubes,which isnotalways thecasewhenthefooditem in question is not a perfect square. But where there’s a will, there’s amethod.

Usethethicker,outerstalksoftheceleryforthistechnique.Trimbothendsofthestalkandplacehorizontallyontheboard.

1.Cuttheceleryinto2½-to3-inch-longpieces.

2.Cuteachpieceinhalflengthwise.

3.Placeeachhalfhorizontallyontheboardandusetheparalleltechniqueandthelast3or4inchesoftheknifetocutthepiecesinhalf.Keeptheholdinghandaheadoftheoncomingknife.

4.Placethecurvedhalfontopandusethelowtechniquetocutthejulienne.

NoncubedDiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:CARROTSANDOTHERTAPEREDVEGETABLESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Truedicingresultsincubes,butmanysoupsorbraiseddishesdonotrequireaperfectcube—aquarter-roundcutwilldoverywell.

1.Cutthecarrotinhalfcrosswise.

2.Cutthethickerhalfinhalflengthwiseorinquarters,dependingonthefinal

sizeyouwant.(Notethearchold.)

3.Placeflat-sidedown.Cutacrosstogetthefinalsize.Thencutthethinnerhalfinhalflengthwise.

4.Placeflatsidedown.Cutacrossandtrytomatchthefinalsizefromthethickerhalfasbestyoucan.

QuartersFRUITORVEGETABLE:CABBAGEKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Thefollowingtechniquesworkforgreen,red,orSavoycabbages.You’llneedthehightechniqueandatruesawingmotionforthiscutbecause

youwillmostlikelynotbeabletoquarteraheadofcabbageinonestroke.Youmayrunoutofbladehalfwayortwo-thirdsofthewaythroughthecut.

1.Placetheknifeinthehighpositionandmakethefirstcut.

2.Pulltheknifebackinthecutyouhavealreadymade,leavinganinchorsoofbladeexposedatthetip.

3.Pushforwardanddownagainandrepeatasnecessary.Thebladeshouldstraightenoutonlywhenyouareveryneartheboard,thenyoufollowthrough.

4.Placethehalvedcabbageflat-sidedownandusethehightechniquetocutintoquarters.

ShredFRUITORVEGETABLE:CABBAGEKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Nowthatyouhavethecabbagequartered,youneedtoremovethecore.

1.Placethecabbagecore-sidedownandremovethecorefollowingitsangle.

2.Placethecoredcabbageflat-sidedownatabouta45-degreeangleand,withthehightechnique,cutthickorthinshreds.

3.Youcanalsoremoveseverallayersofleavesandcutthemintoshredsusingthelowtechnique.

ONIONS

Thereareseveraltechniquesforcuttingonions.Somearesingle-stepcuts,suchas rings, some are a series of cuts as for diced onions. No matter whichtechnique you are using, your knife must be sharp. If you crush this delicatecreature,youwillpaywithtears.FormanyofthetechniquesIwriteaboutyoumustbeabletodistinguishbetweentherootendandthestemend(inthepicturebelow,thestemendisontheleft).Alsonotethedifferentgripsemployed.

“Mineeyessmellonions:Ishallweepanon.”

—fromAll’sWellthatEndsWellbyWilliamShakespeare

WhyYouCryOnion cells contain two sections separated by a membrane— one sectioncontains an enzyme, the other sulfur compounds.When the onion is cut, theenzymeandsulfurcompoundscombine to formamild sulfuricacid.Theacidreaches your tear ducts, which produce more water to dilute the irritatingsubstance.

Coldtemperatureswillslowtheenzymaticreaction,sotryputtingtheonionintherefrigeratorfor30to45minutesbeforecuttingit.Youwillalsofindthatusingasharpknifetocuttheonioncangreatlyreduceyourtearsasthecellwallsarecleanlycutratherthancrushed.

PeelingOnionsFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

Onionsneedtobepeeledbyremovingtheskinandthefirst,toughouterlayer.Ifonions are to be left whole, a knife should be used to slit and remove theselayers.Iftheyhavebeencutinhalf,thefingerscanbeused.

1.Usingachef’sknifeandthehightechnique,sliceoffthestemend.

2.Curlthelastthreefingersaroundthehandleoftheparingknifewiththebladefacingthefingertips.Placetheindexfingerunderneaththeheel,closetothebolster.(Itispossibletousethechef’sknifetoremovethepeel.Grip

thechef’sknifeinthesamemanner.)

3.Inserttheheelofthebladeundertheskin,clampthethumbovertheskin,liftandrotateyourwristtowardyou,andpulltheskintowardtherootfollowingthecurveoftheonion.Repeatthisproceduretopeeltheentireonionandanytoughouterlayers.

RingsFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE,CHEF’SKNIFE

Wholeonionrings(usuallyredonions)areusedinsalads,buttheycanalsobebattered and deep-fried or grilled. For large Spanish or sweet onions, if youcannotcompletetheringinonestroke,donotpressstraightdowntofinishthecut.Instead,usethehightechniquewiththesawingmotionaswithcabbage.

1.Sliceoffthestemendwithachef’sknife.

2.Peelusingtheparingknifeor,ifyoufeelboldenough,thechef’sknifeusingthesamegripandtechnique.Itissometimesusefultoleavetheskinbunchedattherootend—itcanmakeausefulhandleasyouworktowardtherootend.

3.Spreadthefingersofyourholdinghandaroundthecurveoftheonion,usingtheknuckleofyourmiddlefingerasthestopper.

4.Usethehightechniquetocutringstothedesiredthickness.

HalfRingsFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Sliceoffthestemend.

2.Placestem-sidedownandcutinhalfthroughthemiddleoftherootusingthearchold.

3.Peeleachhalfwithyourfingers,aparingknife,orachef’sknife.

4.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownontheboardwiththerootfacingyourholdinghand.Slicehalf-ringstothedesiredthickness.

StripsFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE,CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Sliceoffthestemandrootendswithachef’sknife.

2.Cutinhalflengthwise.

3.Peeleachhalfwithyourfingers,aparingknife,orachef’sknife.

4.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownontheboardandcutintolengthwisestrips.

QuartersorChunksFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE,CHEF’SKNIFE

Thesewillbeperfectlyfineforsoups,stocks,andevensomestews.

1.Sliceoffthestemandrootendswithachef’sknife.

2.Cutinhalflengthwise.

3.Peeleachhalfwithyourfingers,aparingknife,orachef’sknife.

4.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownontheboardandcutinhalfforquarters.Cutquarterstotherequiredsizeforchunks.

DiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:ONIONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE,CHEF’SKNIFE

Beforeyoustartcutting,determinethesizeofthefinalpiecesbecauseoncetheyhavebeencut,theycannotbecutagain.Ifyouhavemadeanuncorrectableerrorin cutting your first dice, get another onion and start again. While you canachievethedesiredsize,⅛inchto1½inches,byalteringthenumberofparallelcuts,pulledcuts,andcrosscutsyoumake,youwillnevergetevenlysizedpiecesbecause the onion is concentrically layered, so the layers closer to the centerhaveasmallerdiameter.Thisisimmutable—wejusthavetolivewithit.

Don’tbedauntedbyallthestepsthatfollow.Onceyougettherhythmoftheprocess,itwillseemverylogicalandyou’llbedicingonionslikeapro.

1.Sliceoffthestemendwithachef’sknife.

2.Placetheonionstem-sidedown.Placetheholdinghandoverhalfoftherootendandcutthroughthemiddleoftheroot.

3.Peeleachhalfwithyourfingers,aparingknife,orachef’sknife.

4.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownatthenearedgeoftheboard,rootfacingyourholdinghand.Placethecurvedfingersoftheholdinghandfirmlyacrossthemiddle,makingsurethethumbandpinkyarenothangingoverthesidesastheknifeisheadedthatway.Placetheheeloftheknifeflushagainstthestemend,tippointingstraightahead.Withoutcutting,pulltheknifestraightbackthree-quartersoftheway.Tostartthecut,pushforwardandslightlytowardtherootend.Donotuseanylateralforcetomovetheknifetowardtherootend.Keepthetippointedstraightahead.

5.Pullbackinthegroovejustcutandrepeatuntilyouareclosetotheroot.Stopandwithdrawtheknife.Tomakemorethanoneparallelcut,startatthebottomofeachhalfandworkyourwayup.

6.Placethestemendatthenearedgeoftheboard,rootfacingaway.Placetheheeloftheknifeatthestemend,tippointingupatabout45degreesforalargeonion,lessofanangleforasmallerone.

7.Maintainingthisangle,pulltheknifebackanddownthroughtheonionuntilthetipisalignedwiththerootend.

8.Withoutstoppingthemotion,raisethehandletopullthetipfromtherootthroughandpastthestemend,makingsureyoufeelthetipontheboardthewholetimeyouarepulling.Followthroughbypullingthetipoftheknifeofftheboard.

9.Repositionthebladeandrepeatthiscut,makingevenlyspacedcutsacrossthewholeonion.

10.Thecutscanbeperpendicularorradial(anglingtheknifeatthesidestofollowtheonion’scontour).Notethatdifferentlengthsofthebladewereusedtomakethepullsacrosstheonion.

11.Returntheoniontothehorizontalpositionontheboardandmoveittowardthefaredgeoftheboardby2or3inches.

12.Cutacrossthestripstogetthedesireddice.

SHALLOTS

Shallotsprobablydon’tappearasofteninyourdailycookingasonions,butthesametechniquesareusedtocut them,sincetheysharethesameconcentricallylayered structure. Unlike an onion, a shallot bulb often splits in half duringgrowth.Thesplitiscoveredbytheskinandisnotalwaysapparent.Aftercuttingoff the stem end, pull the split halves apart, peel each half, and proceed asthoughyouhavecuttheshallotinhalf.

Mostoftenshallotsareminced,buttheycanalsobecutintorings,halfrings,orstrips.Thechef’sknifeistoolargeandthicktodealwiththesmallershallot.Dependingonthesizeoftheshallot,usea3½-inchparingknifeora5-or6-inchutilityknife.

Sincethe3½-inchparingknifeand6-inchutilityknifearesmallknives,Ifinditeasiertousethehightechniqueforremovingthestemendandfordoingthefinalcrosscut.Tryboththelowandhightechniquesanddecidewhichfeelsmorecomfortable.Frankly,itisquitedifficulttousethelowtechniquewithaparingknife. Either way, remember to do your cutting close to the near edge of theboardsoyoudon’tscrapeyourknuckles.

MinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:SHALLOTSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFEOR5-OR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Sliceoffthestemend.

2.Placetheshallotonitssideand,usingthearchold,cutinhalfthroughtherootmakingoneortwoangledcuts.

3.Peeleachhalfwithyourfingersoraknife.

4.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownatthenearedgeoftheboardandmakeoneortwoparallelcutsusingthefingers-closedorfingers-bunchedhold.

5.Placethestemendatthenearedgeoftheboard,rootfacingaway.Placetheheeloftheknifeatthestemend,tippointingup.

6.Maintainingthisangle,pulltheknifebackanddownthroughtheshallotuntilthetipisalignedwiththerootend.

7.Withoutstoppingthemotion,raisethehandletopullthetipfromtherootthroughandpastthestemend,makingsureyoufeelthetipontheboardthewholetimeyouarepulling.Followthroughbypullingthetipoftheknifeofftheboard.Placetheknifeinthepullpositionagainandrepeat,makingclose,evenlyspacedcutsacrossthewholeshallot.

8.Usethearcholdtomakethepullneartheholdinghand.

9.Returntheshallottoahorizontalpositionontheboard.Usingthehightechniqueandeitherthefingers-closedorfingers-bunchedhold,cutacrossthestripskeepingthecutsveryclosetogethertogetamince.

SCALLIONS

DiceorMinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:SCALLIONGREENSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Scallions,amemberof theonionfamily,areoftenreferred toasgreenonions,buttheyaremilderinflavorthanonions.

Thewhite,rootendsofthescallionareconcentricallylayeredandtubularinshape. The hollow green stalks are usually removed and reserved for anotheruse. I remove the top inchofgreenbecause that iswhere thesandydirthangsout.

1.Washanddrythescallions.Bunchthescallionstogetherand,usingthelast3or4inchesofthechef’sknifeandthelowtechnique,cutthegreenstalksintothesizeyouneed.

2.Tomincethegreens,pullthetipoftheknifedownthelengthofthegreens.Bunchtogetherandcutacrosstomince.

3.Ifusingthewhites,bunchasmanyasyouneedtogetherandcutofftherootsusingthelowtechnique.

4.Bunchtogetherandcutcrosswisetogetthesizeyouneedusingthelowtechnique.

5.Tomince,keeptherootattachedandpullthetipoftheknifedownthelengthoneortwotimes.

6.Bunchtogetherandcutacrosstomince.

ShredFRUITORVEGETABLE:SCALLIONSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

ThesearegenerallyusedtogarnishaChinesemaindish,andonealwaysfindsthemonCantonese-stylesteamedfish.

1.Cutoffthetopinchofthegreenportionanddiscard.

2.Placethegreensverticallyontheboardandangletheknifetocuta45-degreecrosssection,makingcutsfromtoptobottomwhilemaintainingtheangle.

3.Toshredthewhites,cutofftheroots,thenremovetheouterlayerofthescallionwiththefingers.

4.Placethewhitesverticallyontheboardandangletheknifetocuta45-degreecrosssection,makingthecutsfromtoptobottomwhilemaintainingtheangle.

CHIVES

MinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:CHIVESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Trimtheends,bunchthechivestogether,andcutintoaminceusingthelast2to3inchesofthechef’sknifeandthelowtechnique.

LEEKS

CleaningLeeksFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEEKSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Thetubularpalegreenandwhitepartsoftheleekarewhatinterestus.Thedarkgreen, tough leaves can be discarded or used to make a brown stock. Theproblemwithleeksisthefinegrainsofsandysoilfoundatthebasebelowwheretheleavesbranch.Thereareseveralmethodsforcleaningleeks.

1.Sliceoffthetoughgreenleavesabout½inchbelowthebranchpointbutkeeptherootattached.

2.Thendigthepointoftheknifeintothecenteroftheleeknearesttherootandpullitthroughtotheotherend.

3.Swishtheleekinabowlofcoldwater,spreadingthelayersapartwithyourfingerstorinsethoroughly.

RingsFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEEKSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Cuttheleekcrosswisefromthepalegreensectiontotherootend,tothedesiredthickness.

2.Placetheslicesinabowlofcoldwaterforseveralminutes.Drainanddry,ifnecessary.

StripsorJulienneFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEEKSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Splittheleekbydiggingthepointoftheknifelengthwisedowntheleekandpullingitoutattheotherend.

2.Place4or5layersflat-sidedownandverticallyontheboard.Cutstripstothedesiredthickness,usingthelowtechnique.

BELLPEPPERS

RingsFRUITORVEGETABLE:BELLPEPPERSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFEAND6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Usingthechef’sknife,sliceoffthetopofthepepperjustbelowthestem,andthebottomabout½inchfromtheend.

2.Inserttheutilityknifethroughthestemendandskimitalongtheinsidecurveofthepepperasyouturnthepeppertotheleft(orright)toremovethemembranesandseeds.

3.Placethepepperhorizontallyontheboardand,withthechef’sknife,cuttheringstothedesiredthicknessusingthehightechnique.

StripsorDiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:BELLPEPPERSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFEOR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

I first saw this technique demonstrated by my colleague and televisionpersonalityMartinYan.Besuretobuystraightpepperswiththreeorfourlobes—thetwistedkindwillnotwork.

The height of the pepperwill determinewhether a utility knife or a chef’sknifeshouldbeused.

1.Sliceoffthetopofthepepperjustbelowthestem,andthebottomabout½inchfromtheend.

2.Anglethebladetotheright(orleft)andcutintoalobecrease.

3.Turnthebladetowardyourholdinghanduntilitisparallelandskimitalongtheinsidecurveofthepepperasyoupullthepepperopentotheleft(orright).Younowhaveaflatpepperreadyforslices,strips,ordice.

4.Toremovetheinnermembrane,cuta3-or4-inch-widestripofpepper.Placethestriphorizontallyontheboardwiththeskinsidedownand,usingtheparallelposition,zigzagthebackhalfoftheknifetowardtheleft(orright)justunderthespongyinsidemembrane,keepingtheholdinghandabout½inchaheadoftheknifeuntilthemembraneisremoved.

5.Cutthepepperintostrips,thendiceifdesired.

CHILEPEPPERS

SeedandDiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:CHILEPEPPERSKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Thecapsaicinkick in chile peppers comesprimarily from themembranes thatrunthelengthofthepepperandtowhichtheseedsareattached.

1.IfIwantthekick,Icutthepeppercrosswiseintowheelsandleavethemembraneandskinattached.

2.Toremovetheseeds,trimoffthestemendandsplitthepepperinhalflengthwise.

3.Usethetipoftheparingknifetoremovethemembranesandseeds.

4.Cutthepepperintostrips,thendiceifdesired.

Caution:Besuretowashyourhandsthoroughlyafterhandlingchilepeppersor,wearthinkitchengloves.

TOMATOES

CoreFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Forcoringgrip.

1.Holdthetomatostem-sideupinthepalmoftheholdinghandandangleittowardtheknifehand.Withaninchofknifeshowingaboveyourthumb,insertthetipoftheknifeata45-degreeangle,edgefacingyou,intothesideofthecoreuntilyourthumbmakescontactwiththetomato.Yourthumbmuststayincontactwiththetopofthecoreuntilitisremoved.

2.Rotatetheknifehandtowardyouuntiltheknucklesarefacingup.Holdthetomatofirmlyandrotatetheknifehandbacktothestartingposition(knucklesfacingaway)whilesimultaneouslyturningthetomatotowardyou.Threeorfourturnsshouldremovethecore.

PeelFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

1.Topeelatomato,Iusuallycoreitfirst,thenstartthepeelingfromtheblossom(bottom)end.

2.Cupthehandleoftheknifewithfourfingerswiththebladeintheparallelposition.

3.Placethethumbonthenearsideofthetomatoandmakeback-and-forthcutsuntilthetopisnearlyoff.

4.Anglethetipofthebladeupandtotheright(orleft)and,withthebladejustundertheskin,pivottheknifebackandforthasyou,rotatethetomatotowardtheknifewiththeholdinghanduntilthepeelisremoved.

DiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Core the tomato and cut a thin slice from top and bottom using the hightechnique.

1.Standthetomatoupright.Cutoffthefour“sides”followingthecurves.Removeanyseedswiththefingers.

2.Cutthesidesintostripsthethicknessofthedesireddice.

3.Turnthestripshorizontallyandcutcrosswiseforthedice.

ConcasséFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Concassé isusuallydefinedasa roughchop(butwedon’tchop,dowe?).Forsomedishestheskinmaybelefton.

1.Corethetomato.Cutthetomatoinhalfatitsequatorandsqueezetoremovetheseeds,butleavethefleshycenter.

2.Givethetomatoesaroughcutusingthehightechnique,turningthemseveraltimes.

SliceFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:10-INCHSCALLOPED-EDGEORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Corethetomato.Placethetomatoontheboard,balancedonitsequator,andslicetothedesiredthicknessfromthestemendtotheblossomendusingthehightechnique.

2.Usetheparalleltechniquetogetthoselastslices.

WedgeFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFEORSCALLOPED-EDGEKNIFE

Irecommendcoringthetomatobeforecuttingitintowedges.Thiswillsaveyoufromhavingtocutthetopfromeachwedge.

1.Cutthetomatoinhalffromstemtoblossom(toptobottom).

2.Placeflat-sidedownandcuteachhalfinhalf,theninhalfagainforsmallerwedges.

BROCCOLI

SeparatingFloretsandStalkFRUITORVEGETABLE:BROCCOLIKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFEAND6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Youshouldtreatbroccoliastwoseparatevegetables—thefloretsandthestalks.The latter can be perfectly respectable if properly treated. Unless you wantmushyflorets,youcannotcookthemwhiletheyareattachedtothestalk.Ifyoucook them until the stalks are done, the florets will only be suitable for thecompostheap.

1.Cutthefloretsfromthestalkatthepointwheretheybegintobranch.Theywillnotyieldevenlysizedpieces.

2.Splitthelargerfloretsinhalforthirdsbycuttingdownthestemthentearingthemapartbyhand.

3.Removethetoughouterskinfromthefloretsusingthepeelinggrip.Removethetoughouterskinofthestalkbycuttingdownthesides.Alternately,inserttheheelofthebladeundertheskinandrotatetowardsyourholdinghand.

4.Toexposemoresurfaceareaforquickercooking,cutthinslicesata45-degreeangle,orcutthestalkacrossthemiddle.

5.Toshred(forslaw)cutatwotothreeinchsectioncrosswiseandpeel.Cutthinlengthwiseslicesusingthehightechnique,thencutintoshredsusingthelowtechnique.

YELLOWSQUASH,ZUCCHINI,CUCUMBERS,ANDPICKLES

I grouped these together because they have similar shapes and the techniquesworkforallofthem.

SliceFRUITORVEGETABLE:ZUCCHINIKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Sliceoffbothendsusingthehightechnique.

2.Cutstraightacrossforrounds.

3.Keeptheknifeinthesamepositionbutanglethevegetabletogetabiascut.

4.Forhalfcircles,cutthevegetableinhalflengthwise.

5.Placeflat-sidedownandcutstraightacrossforhalfcircles.Keeptheknifeinthesamepositionbutanglethevegetabletogetabiascut.Trythelowtechniquefirstbutifnotcomfortableswitchtothehightechnique.

QuarterandDiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:YELLOWSQUASH,ZUCCHINI,CUCUMBERS,ANDPICKLESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Trimtheendsandcutthevegetableinhalflengthwise.Ifyouwishtoremovetheseeds,spoonthemoutnow—Iusuallydon’tbother.

2.Placethehalvesflat-sidedownandcutinhalflengthwiseforquarters,orinhalfagainforeighths.

3.Cutdicefromthequartersoreighths.

CORN

RemovingKernelsFRUITORVEGETABLE:CORNKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

Removing the kernels over parchment paper makes for easy transferring to abowlorotherdestination.Removethehuskfromthecorn.

1.Holdtheearofcornfirmlyuprightandworktheknifefromtoptobottomaroundthecobtoreleasethekernels.Donotpushstraightdownwiththeknifebutusethehightechniquesawingmotion.

MUSHROOMS

Iusuallydon’twashmushrooms,butinsteaduseasoft-bristledmushroombrushor a slightly dampened paper towel to remove any surface dirt. Don’t wastethosestems—cutoffanddiscardthetoughendsandmincetheremainingpiecestoaddtoastuffedmushroommixture.

SliceFRUITORVEGETABLE:MUSHROOMSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Trimoffallbutabout¼inchofthestem.Placethemushroomrounded-sideupandslicetothedesiredthickness.

DiceorMinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:MUSHROOMSKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Trimoffallbutabout¼inchofthestem.Placethemushroomrounded-sideup,setthetipoftheknifeontheboard,andraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.

2.Pulltheknifethroughthemushroom,keepingthetipontheboardandthebladeata45-degreeangle,andslicetothedesiredthickness.

3.Turnthemushroomandpushthebladeacrosstodice.

4.Forasmallerdice,cutthemushroominhalfhorizontally,pullthebladethroughforslices,turn,andpushthebladeacrosstodice.

Formincedmushrooms, use the chef’s knife and the same technique used forchoppingparsley.Orgivethemaquickspininthefoodprocessorusingthesteel

blade,thenwringthemdryinacottontowel.

HERBS

ChopFRUITORVEGETABLE:HERBSKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Youarefinallygoingtogetachancetochop—thebackendoftheknifeactuallycomesstraightdownontheleaves.Flat-leaf(Italian)parsleyandcilantromaybechopped,ascanrosemaryneedles.Washanddrytheleavesthoroughly,keepingthemonthestemsespeciallyifyouareusingaspinnertodrythem.

Ifyouneedonlyasmallamount,¼cuporso,youcanusethelowtechniquetoremovesomeoftheleaves;otherwiseremovethestemsbeforechopping.

1.Tochop,startwiththebasicchef’s-knifegrip,thenletgowiththeringandpinkyfingers.Holdthetipoftheknifedownwiththepalmoftheholdinghand.

2.Pivotonthetiptothefarsideand,asyoudoso,slaporbouncethebackhalfoftheknifestraightdownwithyourwrist.Thetipstaysanchoredtotheboardbyyourpalmthewholetime.Pivotandbounce(chop)asyoumovetothefarsideofthebunchedleaves.Keepthecutsveryclosetogether.

3.Atthefarend,lowerthebackendoftheknifeandscooptheleavesbackintoasmallpile.Repeattheprocessofchoppingandgatheringuntilyouhavethedesiredsize,eithercoarselyorfinelychopped(minced).

ChiffonadeFRUITORVEGETABLE:BASILKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

Unlikeparsley,basilcannotbechoppedbecausechoppingwillbruisetheleavesandtheywillturnbrown.Thechiffonadecutusesaglidingmotionoftheknifetofinelyshredtheleaves.

1.Stackseveralleavesandrollthemintoacylinder.

2.Usingthelowtechnique,glidetheknifethroughwithaforwardpushtocutintothinribbons.

GARLIC

Garlic canbeusedwhole, sliced,minced,ormashedeither throughapressorwiththespineofaparingknife.Unlessitisbeingroasted,garlicshouldalwaysbepeeled.

MinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:GARLICKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Cutofftherootendattheheelofthechef’sknife(lowtechnique)Gentlytaptheclovewiththeflatofthebladetosplittheskin.Removetheskin.

2.Cutapeeledcloveinhalflengthwise.

3.Placethehalveshorizontallyatthefrontedgeoftheboardwiththerootfacingyourholdinghand.Makeoneortwoparallelcuts.

4.Placethecloveverticallyontheboard,rootfacingaway.Placetheheeloftheknifeatthefrontend,tippointingupandmakepulledcutsallthewayacross,asyoudidwithonionsandshallots.

5.Turntheclovehorizontallyandusethehightechniquetocutacrossintoamince.

Alternately, peeled cloves can be crushedwith the flat of the chef’s knife bygiving a hard tap, coming off the knife immediately after contact. Proceed tochopasforparsley.

SliceFRUITORVEGETABLE:GARLICKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

1.Usingthelowtechnique,cutapeeledcloveintoslices.Todothiswithaparingknifeisfartootedious.Youcoulduseautilityknife,butusingachef’sknifeislesswork.

PureeFRUITORVEGETABLE:GARLICKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Occasionallyyou’llneedateaspoonorsoofgarlicpuree.

1.Cutalargecloveofpeeledgarlicinhalflengthwise.

2.Placeeachhalfflat-sidedownatthenearedgeoftheboard.Placeyourindexfingerontheheelofthebladeandanglethebladeup,spineonthegarlic.

3.Scrapeacrossthetopoftheclovegettingagoodfollow-through.

GINGER

PeeledFRUITORVEGETABLE:GINGERKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Ifthegingerisfreshwithatight,paleskin,itcanbepeeledwiththespineoftheknife.

1.Withthethumboftheknifehandatthetopofthegingerforsupport,usethespineofthebladetoscrapefrombottomtotopallaround.

MinceFRUITORVEGETABLE:GINGERKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE

ManyChineserecipescallformincedginger,andtheydon’tmeangratedginger.Theprocessisthesameasforfinelydicingasoliditem,butsincegingerisveryfibrous, be sure to cut thin lengthwise slices following the lengthwise grain.Thickpiecesarenoteasytochew.

1.Usingthehightechnique,cutverythinslicesofpeeledginger,followingthegrain.

2.Stackseveralslicesandcutintoshredsthinnerthanmatchsticks,againwiththegrain.

3.Turntheshredsandcutacrosstomince.

STRAWBERRIES

HullFRUITORVEGETABLE:STRAWBERRIESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Hullingstrawberriesisdoneinthesamemannerascoringatomatobutlessoftheknife’stipisused.

1.Removethegreencalyxwithyourfingers.

2.Holdthestrawberryhull-sideupinthepalmofyourholdinghandandangleittowardyourknifehand.

3.Insertthetipoftheknifeata45-degreeangle,edgefacingyou,intothesideofthewhitecoreuntilyourthumbmakescontactwiththestrawberry.Yourthumbshouldstayincontactwiththestrawberryuntilthecoreisremoved.

4.Rotatetheknifehandtowardyouuntilyourknucklesarefacingup.Rotatetheknifehandbacktothestartingposition(knucklesfacingaway)whileturningthestrawberrytowardyou.Twoorthreeturnsshouldremovethehull.

QuarterorSliceFRUITORVEGETABLE:STRAWBERRIESKNIFE:CHEF’SKNIFE,6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE,OR3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

1.Ifyoudon’tcarehowthecutpiecesfall,hullthestrawberryandusetheutilityorchef’sknifetocuthalvesorquarters.Youmayevenusethepairingknifeandthesnippygrip.

2.Ifyouwantthinslicescutthroughbutkeptinsliceorder,hullthestrawberry.Placeverticallyontheboard.Usethearcholdandplacethetipoftheutilityknifeontheboardandraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.Keepingtheangle,pulltheknifethroughthestrawberry.Repeatuntilcompletelysliced.

3.Pressdowntofanouttheslices.

APPLES

PeelandCoreFRUITORVEGETABLE:APPLESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFEOR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE,

Use these techniques to prepare apples for pies, tarts, or fruit salads. Mostrecipeswillcallforcored,peeledapples.

1.Removethecorewithanapplecorer.

2.Cutathinslicefromtopandbottom.Thenwiththebackthirdofautilityknifeorwithaparingknife,peelusingthepeelinggripforroundfruits.

WedgeFRUITORVEGETABLE:APPLESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Cutthecoredappleinhalflengthwise.

2.Tocuttheappleintoeightwedges,placetheflatsidesdownandcuteachhalfinhalf,theninhalfagain.

ThinSlicesFRUITORVEGETABLE:APPLESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Trim¼to½inchfromthetopandbottomofthecoredapple,makingthecutsasparallelaspossible,thenpeel.

2.Cutthecoredappleinhalflengthwise.Placethehalvesflat-sidedown,placethetipoftheknifeontheboard,andraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.Pulltheknifetowardyouandthroughtheapple,usingtheguidehandtoachievethedesiredthickness.

3.Atfirstthiswillseemslowbutspeedwillcomewithpractice.Whenyouarefinishedslicing,pressthesliceswithyourhandsotheyfanout.Theslicescanthenbepickedupinonelayerandplacedonthetartdoughorwhereveryouwantthem.

DiceFRUITORVEGETABLE:APPLESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Coretheapple,peeledorunpeeled.

2.Determinethesizediceyouwillneedandcuttheappropriatenumberofwedges.

3.Trimthewedgestosizeifnecessary,thencutacrosstodice.

PINEAPPLE

RingsFRUITORVEGETABLE:PINEAPPLESKNIFE:10-INCHSCALLOPEDEDGEANDUTILITYKNIFE

Pineappleisalwayspeeledbeforebeingcutintoringsorpieces.

1.Topeel,trimoffabout1inchfromthetopandbottom.

2.Standthepineappleononeendandworktheknifedownandaroundthesides,removingenoughoftheouterfleshsothatnoeyesarevisible.

3.Cutthepeeledpineappleinhalfcrosswise.

4.Removethetoughinnercorewiththeutilityknife,followingtheoutlinesofthecore.

5.Cuteachhalfintorings.

6.Cutthelastringsusingazigzag,parallelmotion.

PiecesFRUITORVEGETABLE:PINEAPPLESKNIFE:10-INCHSCALLOPED-EDGEKNIFEAND6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE,ORCHEF’SKNIFE

1.Sliceoffthetopandbottomofthepineappleusingthescalloped-edgeknifeandthehightechnique.

2.Turnthepineappleverticallyandusethesameknifeandtechniquetocutinhalf,theninhalfagain.

3.Placeeachwedgehorizontallyontheboard.Withtheknifeinparallelpositionsettheheeljustunderneaththecore.Pulltowardsyouandzigzagtowardsyourholdinghand.Thepushresetsthebladeforthenextpull.Discardthecore.

4.Usethissamestartingpointandtechniquetoremovetheskin.

5.Toslice,placeeachwedgehorizontallyontheboard.Placethetipoftheutilityknifeontheboardandraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.Pulltowardyouandthroughtoseparate.Continueallthewayacross.

6.Forsmallerpiecesplaceeachquartervertically.Pullthrough,turnhorizontally.Pullthroughtocutthepieces.

MANGO

SlicesandPiecesFRUITORVEGETABLE:MANGOKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Themangoisovalwithanoval-shaped,somewhatflatseedinthemiddle.

1.Cutathinslicefromthebottom.

2.Standthemangoupright.Removeeachsidebycuttingforwardanddowntotheleftandrightofthecenterseed.

3.Forlargeslices,usethepeelinggripandaback-and-forthmotiontopeeleachhalf.

4.Placethepeeledhalvesflat-sidedownhorizontallyontheboard.Placethetipoftheknifeontheboardandraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.Pulltheknifetowardyouandthrough.Resetthebladeandusetheholdinghandtoachievethedesiredthickness.

5.Forsmallerslicesorpieces,placeeachunpeeledhalfverticallyontheboardandcutinhalflengthwise.

6.Placeeachquarterhorizontallyontheboard.Withtheknifeinparallelposition,placetheheelbetweenfleshandskin.Pulltheknifetowardyouandusetheparallel,zigzagtechniquefollowingthemango’scontour.Thepushresetsthebladeforthenextpull.

7.Toslice,usethechef’sknifeandthelowtechnique.

8.Alternatelyusethepullthroughtechniqueofstep4withtheutilityknife.

CubesFRUITORVEGETABLE:MANGOKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

1.Placeamangohalfskin-sidedownontheboardorholditinyourhandandcarefullycrosshatchdiagonallyacrosstheflesh.

2.Turnthemangohalfinsideoutandscrapethecubesfromtheskin.

ORANGES

SuprêmeFRUITORVEGETABLE:ORANGESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Cupthehandleoftheknifewithfourfingers.Holdtheorangeintheholdinghand,withthethumbonthepeel,thumbnailfacingyou.Placetheknifeagainstthepeelandmovetheknifebackandforth,cuttinginbothdirections.Keeptheknifeedgeangledslightlyup,justunderneaththepeel,soyoudon’tcutintotheorange’sflesh.Asyoucut,turntheorangetowardtheknifewiththeholdinghandandmovetheknifelowerwitheachturn,toremovealongspiralofpeel.

2.Oncethepeelisremoved,trimawayanyremainingwhitemembrane.

3.Holdthepeeledorangeoverabowlandremovethesegmentsbycuttingjusttotheleftofamembrane,followingthecurveoftheorangefrontandbackallthewaytothecenter.Dothesameontherightsideofthesegmentandflickthemembrane-freeorangesegmentsintothebowl.

WedgesFRUITORVEGETABLE:ORANGESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR10-INCHSCALLOPED-EDGEKNIFE

Almost every Chinese meal in an American Chinatown restaurant ends withorangewedges.Bepreparedtopickupawedge,bendbacktheends,andworkthefleshfromthepeelwithyourteeth.

1.Cuttheorangeinhalfattheequator,notfrompoletopole.

2.Laythehalvescut-sidedown.Cuttheminhalf,theninhalfagain.

GRAPEFRUITS

SuprêmeFRUITORVEGETABLE:GRAPEFRUITSKNIFE:8-OR10-INCHSERRATEDKNIFEOR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Tipthegrapefruitonitssideandremovethetopandbottomusingtwoorthreeangled,forwardstrokes.

2.Setthegrapefruitupononeofitsflatendsandusethreeorfourforwardanddownwardstrokestoremoveasmuchpitchwiththepeelandaslittleofthefleshaspossible,workingtheknifedownthesidestofollowthecurveofthefruit.Oncethepeelisremoved,trimawayanyremainingwhitemembrane.

3.Holdthepeeledgrapefruitoverabowlandremovethesegmentsbycuttingjusttotheleftofamembrane,followingthecurveofthesegmentfrontandbackallthewaytothecenter.Dothesameontherightsideofthesegmentandflickthemembrane-freegrapefruitsegmentsintothebowl.

WedgesFRUITORVEGETABLE:GRAPEFRUITSKNIFE:8-OR10-INCHSCALLOPED-EDGEKNIFE

1.Cutthegrapefruitinhalfattheequatornotfrompoletopole.Ifthiscannotbeaccomplishedinonestroke,pulltheknifebackinthegroovejustcutandmakeanotherforward,angledcut.

2.Laythehalvescutsidedown.Cuteachinhalf,theninhalfagainusingthehightechnique.

LEMONSANDLIMES

WedgesFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEMONSANDLIMESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR5-INCHTOMATOKNIFE

1.Trimbothendsofthefruit.Cutinhalflengthwise.

2.Cutintoequallysizedwedges.Cutthewedgesinhalfcrosswiseforsqueezablepieces.

SlicesFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEMONSANDLIMESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR5-INCHTOMATOKNIFE

1.Togetslicesofcitrusthatrestbeautifullyontherimofaglass,trimbothendsofthefruit.Makea½-inchlengthwisecut.

2.Turnthefruithorizontallyandcut¼-inchslices,orthinner.

MELONS

WedgesFRUITORVEGETABLE:CANTALOUPEKNIFE:10-INCHSCALLOPED-EDGEKNIFEORCHEF’SKNIFE

If themelon has clearly defined and equally distributed segments such as onsomecantaloupeorPersianvarieties,youmayusethoseasmarkers.Ifyouwantsmallerorlargerwedges,orifthemelonhasnopronouncedsegments,1.Cutthemeloninhalffromtoptobottomusingthehightechnique.

2.Removetheseedswithatablespoon.Placeflat-sidedownandcutinhalfusingthehightechnique.

3.Forquarters,cutinhalfagainusingthearcholdandthehightechnique.

PiecesFRUITORVEGETABLE:CANTALOUPEKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

1.Placeamelonwedgehorizontallyontheboard,skin-sidedown.Placetheheeloftheutilityknifeontheright(orleft)sideandpulltowardtheholdinghandtocut,keepingtheknifeincontactwiththeskinandfollowingthemelon’scontour.Thepushresetsthebladeforthenextpull.

2.Tocutthemelonintopieces,placethetipoftheknifeontheboardandraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangleabovethepeeledmelonslice.

3.Pulltheknifetowardyouandthroughthemelon,usingtheholdinghandtoachievethedesiredthickness.

PLUMS,PEACHES,ANDNECTARINES

SlicesFRUITORVEGETABLE:PLUMS,PEACHES,ANDNECTARINESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Allofthesefruitshaveacenterpitandacreasenearthestemend.

1.Placetheedgeoftheknifeinthecreaseofthefruitandmakeacuttowardthepit.

2.Keepingtheknifestraightandinthecrease,pullitfromtoptobottomwhilerotatingthefruitawayfromtheknifehand.

3.Useaspoonoryourfingerstoremovethepit.

4.Placethehalvesflat-sidedown,placethetipoftheknifeontheboard,andraisethehandletoforma45-degreeangle.Pulltheknifetowardyouandthroughthefruit,usingtheguidehandtoachievethedesiredthickness.

DECORATIVEGARNISHES

Adecorativegarnish isdesigned tocallattention to itselfand toaddbeauty tothedishitisgarnishing.Hereareafewofmyfavorites,noneofwhichrequiresanyspecialtools.

StrawberryFansFRUITORVEGETABLE:STRAWBERRIESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFEOR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Fanningisaccomplishedbypullingtheknifetowardyouasyoucutthin,angledsegmentswhile keeping the back of the stem attached. Large strawberries areoftencutinhalfbeforefanning;smalleronesmaybefannedwhole.

1.CutthestrawberryinhalflengthwiseandleavethegreencalyxattachedPlacetheheeloftheknifeatthetipofthestrawberry,angledupatabout25degrees.Pulltheknifethroughasyoudidfortheonion.

2.Usethewholebladetomakeevenlyspacedandperpendicularcutsallthewayacross.

3.Whenallthecutsarecompleted,pressdownwiththeknifeoryourhandtocreatethefan.

LemonStarsFRUITORVEGETABLE:LEMONSKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

1.Trimathinslicefromeachendofthelemon.Pickanyspotinthecenterofthelemonand,usingtheparingknife,make25-to45-degreeanglecutsthroughtherindtothecenterallaroundthecircumference,thelastcutmeetingthefirst.

2.Twistthelemonaparttomaketwostars.

OrangeBasketFRUITORVEGETABLE:ORANGESKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Inadditiontotheknife,youwillalsoneeda6-or8-inchbambooskewerunlessyouhaveagoodeye.Thistechniquecanalsobeusedformelons.

1.Trimathinsliceoffthebottomoftheorangesothatthebasketwillsitflat.Insertaskewerhorizontallythroughthecenteroftheorange.

2.Formthehandlebycuttingdownward¼to⅜inchoneithersideofcentertotheskewer.

3.Makehorizontalcutsinlinewiththeskeweroneachsidetomeetthehandlecuts.

4.Removethefleshbetweenthehandleandthecup.

5.Notchtheedgesofthecupallthewayaround.

TomatoRosesFRUITORVEGETABLE:TOMATOESKNIFE:3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

1.Corethetomato.

2.Almostsliceofftheflowerendbutbeforecompletingthecuttilttheknifeupwardtobeginpeelingtheskininonecontinuousthinstrip,usingaback-and-forthmotionwiththeknife.Turnthetomatotowardsthemovingknife.

3.Curlthestriptightly,skin-sideout,takingcarenottotwistit.

4.Placethebase(flowerend)ontop.Turnitover—andvoilà!

CucumberFlyingFishFRUITORVEGETABLE:CUCUMBERKNIFE:6-INCHUTILITYKNIFEOR3½-INCHPARINGKNIFE

Useaseedlesscucumberforthisgarnish.

1.Sliceoffabout1inchfromoneend.Cutthecucumberinto3½-to4-inchsections,thencutinhalflengthwise2.Cutofftheright(orleft)endata45-degreeangle.

3.Nowmake7cuts:numbers1,3,and5eachabout⅛-inchthick,pullingtheknifeasforthestrawberryfan,andkeepingthebackattached;numbers2,4,and6shouldbeasthinaspossible.(Besuretofollowthe45-degreeangleforeachcut;number7separatestheothercutsfromtherestofthecucumber.)4.Foldcut2backto1,cut4backto3,cut6backto5.

DISJOINTINGACHICKENANDBONINGTHEBREAST

For the task of chicken fabrication, I prefer to use a very sharp, rigid, 5-inchboningknife,althoughIhavedoneitwithcleaversandeventhat8-inchchef’sknife. Learning the technique means you don’t have to pay a butcher. Inaddition,ifyoumakeyourownstocksandsoups,thebacks,necks,andall thebonesareyoursforthetaking.

Youbasicallywanttokeeptheknifeinthesamestartingpositionformanyofthecuts, turningthechickentoaccommodateyourarmandyourknife.Allbutoneof the cuts aremadebypulling theknife towardyou.Sometimesone cutwilldo;othertimesyouwillneedtomakeoverlappingpulls.Avoidmovingtheknifeinaback-and-forthmotion.

Thebonesareyourguideposts,sobeforeyouattemptthistask,useyoureyesand fingers to familiarize yourself with the anatomy of the bird. The goal infabricationistocutthroughskintoexposethejoints,thentoseparatethebonesat these joints rather than to try to cut through the bone. The only bones thatneedcuttingarethethinribbonesandthebreastboneifyouwanttosplitit.

RemovingtheWingsKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Placethechickenbreast-sidedownontheboardwiththetailangledtowardyourknife-handhip.Useyourindexfingertolocatetheendofthewingbone.Theobjectistoseparatethewingtakingalongaslittlebreastmeataspossible.

2.Holdontothelastjoint.Placetheheelofthebladealmostflatagainsttheneckatthewingjoint(inthearmpit).Pulltoexposethejoint.Snapthewingbacktoseparatetheshoulderbonefromthesocket.Makeacircularcutbehindthewingjointawayfromthebreastandcutthroughtheligamentstoseparate.Theknifeshouldenduponthecuttingboard.

3.Turnthechickenaroundsothattheotherwingandyourknifeareinthesamepositionasforthefirstwingandremove.

RemovingLegandThighKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Turnthechickenbreast-sideupwiththetailangledtowardyourknife-handhip.Cutthroughtheflapofskinbetweenthelegandthighfollowingthecontourofthethigh.Pulltowardthetail,keepingtheknifealmostparalleltothebody.

2.Runyourfingersdownthethighuntilyoufeeltheendofthebone.Useupwardpressurewiththefingerstosnaptheboneoutofthehipsocket.

3.Usingthelowerbackboneasaguide,startatthetailandmakeoverlappingpullstowardthenthroughthethigh.Turnthechickenaroundandremovetheotherlegandthigh.

RemovingtheLowerBackKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Placethechickenonitssidewiththetailangledtowardyourknife-handhip.Notethetwoflapsofthinconnectivetissuebelowthelowerbreast.

2.Plungethetipoftheknifethroughtopandbottomflaps,thenlowertheknifeandpulltoseverbothflapsinonecut.

3.Graspthelowerbackwiththehandandsnapuptowardtheheadtoseparateatthecoccyx.Irefertothetechniqueas“plunge,lower,pull.”

RemovingtheUpperBackandNeckKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Placethechickenonitssidewiththetailangledtowardyourknife-handhip.Pulltheupperportionoftheskinbacktoexposethelineoffatthatappearsnexttotheskininthemiddleoftheribcage.

2.Keeptheknifeparalleltothefatandplungethetipoftheknifetotheboard.

3.Lowertheheeltocutthetopribs.Pulltowardyourknife-handhiptocutthelowerribs.

4.Grasptheneckandlowerribbones.Snapthebackstraighttowardtheheadandbreakasyouwouldabunchofsticks.Alittlepullingmightbenecessarytoseparatethebackfromtheshoulderligaments.

BoningtheBreastfromtheBackKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Placethechickenskin-sidedownontheboard,withthetailangledtowardyourknife-handhip.Locatethewhitepieceofcollagenatthetopofthebreastbone.

2.Pushtheknifetocutthecollagenthroughthecenterwhileholdingtheknifeata45-degreeangle.Stopwhenyoureachthetopofthebreastbone.

3.Lightlypullthetipoftheknifedownthebreastbonetosplitthemembranethatcoversit.

4.Pickupthechickenwithbothhands.Startingoneitherside,placeyourholding-handthumbonthebreastboneandyourotherthumbonthesplitcollagen,yourfingersunderneaththebreast.

5.Snapupwardinthecenteranddownwardatthesideofthebreasttoexposeonesideofthebreastbone.Repeatthisontheotherside.

6.Workyourfingersalongthebonefromheadtotailtoremoveitfromitssheath.

7.Holdingthetopofthebreastdown,graspthetopoftheboneandpullitupwardandtowardthetailtoremoveit.

GettingItBonelessKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

To get a boneless breast, remove the ribs and whatever bones remain in theshoulderarea.

1.Placethetipoftheknifeunderneathonesideofthesplitcollagen.Istartontheleftside.

2.Usingoverlapping,pullingstrokes,workthetipdownwardalongtheribstowardthelong,thinbonenearthebottomofthebreast.

3.Whenthisboneisloosened,graspitattheendand,usingthetipoftheknife,scrapeupwardsalongtheribstowardtheshoulderusingshort,overlappingstrokes.

4.Graspthebonesandsnapbackwardtoremove.Alittlepullingortwistingmightbenecessary.Youwillhavetoturnyourarmoutwardtodotheotherside.

5.Veryoftenthewishbonebreaksduringtheaboveprocess.Pulloutwhateverispullable.Usethetipoftheboningknifetocarefullyscrapeawaythemeatfromthehalfthatremains.

SeparatingtheLegandThighKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

Younowhaveyourbasicparts.Here’showtofabricatethesmallerpieces.

1.Placethelegandthighontheboardwiththeskinsidedown.

2.Useyourindexfingertolocatethespacebetweenthetwobones.Withtheknifeagainstthefinger,pulltoseparate.Usuallythereisadistinctlineoffatrightoverthejoint.Placetheheelofyourknifejusttotheleftofthelineoffatandpulltoseparate.

SplittingaBone-InBreast

1.Useaheavyknifeforthisjob(a10-inchchef’sknifewilldo).Undernocircumstancesshouldyoutrytouseachoppingtechniquewithanythingbutaseriouscleaver.Yourchef’sknifeedgeistoodelicateforchoppingbonesbutcandothejobifyouplacetheedgerightonthecenterofthebone.

2.Liftyourhandandgivethespineofthebladeawhackwithyouropenpalm,thinkingfollow-through.Assoonasyourpalmmakescontact,liftit(thinkofclapping).Oncesplitinhalflengthwise,thebreastcanbequarteredusingthesamemethod.

3.Withthelegandthighseparatedandthebreastquartered,younowhaveeightneatportions.Addthewings(I’mpartialtothem)andyouhavetenpieces.

RemovingtheSkinandtheTendersKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

Themostexpensivecutinthepoultrysectionofthebutchershopisthecutlet.Ihaveseenwholechickenssell for79or89centsperpoundwhile thecutlet issellingfor$4.99ormore.Thisisreallywhereyourboningknifepaysforitself—quickly.

1.Oncethebreasthasbeenbonedoutfromthebackandtheskinhasbeenremoved,useyourfingerstoextractthetenderfinger,thatdelicatemusclethatisencasedinthecenteronthebonesideofthebreast.Sometimesitpullsouteasily,sometimesitdoesnot.

2.Tofacilitateremoval,useyourfingerstoloosenthesurroundingsheathasyougentlypullthetenderfromtoptobottom.

3.Toremovethetendon,thatwhitish,chewythingembeddedinthecenter,placethetenderrounded-sideupattheedgeofthecuttingboard.Grabtheexposedtendonwithyourthumbandindexfinger.Ifitistooslippery,useapapertowel.

4.Holdingitdownwiththespineoftheboningknife,scrapeawayfromyou,whilepullingthetendontowardyouatthesametime.

Now your chicken breast is boneless, skinless, and tendonless and ready forgreaterthings.

ButterflyingtheBreastandCutletsKNIFE:9-INCHGRANTON-EDGECARVER

Thebreastshouldbebutterfliedfromtheoutsidetowardthecenter.Oneisdoneskin-sideup,theotherskin-sidedown,workingfromthemiddle.

1.Withthebreastbone-sideup,cutawaythematerialinthemiddlethathousedthebreastbonesoyouhavetwohalves.Trimanyfat.

2.Withyourhandontop,usea9-or10-inchcarvingknifetomakeoverlappingpullsintheparallelpositionfromthetoptowardthecentertothebottom.Don’ttrythisinonemotion.Resettheknifeseveraltimesifnecessary.

3.Whenclosetothecenter,openthebreast,layitflat,andusedelicatepullingstrokestoevenitout.Thebutterfliedbreastcannowbestuffedandrolled.Forchickencutlets,cutthebutterfliedbreastinhalflengthwiseandplacebone-sideup.

4.Wrapthebreastinparchmentpaperorplasticwrapskin-sidedownanduseawoodenmalletorstainlesssteelmeatpoundertomakethecutletevenfromtoptobottom.Forthemalletuseadelicatehammerlikemotion;forthepounder,useglancingblowsawayfromyou.Sincethetophalfisthicker,that’sthepartyouwanttothin.

BoningtheBreastFromtheFrontKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

Iusethistechniquetoremovethebreasthalvesfromaroastedchicken.Theyarethencut intocrosswiseportionsandplacedback in theiroriginal shapeon theplatter.

Useyourfingerstolocatethecenterofthebackbone.Withthisasaguide,

1.Placethechickenskin-sideupontheboardwiththetailfacingawayfromyou.

2.Runtheknifealongtheoutsideofthebonefromthebottomtothetopofthebreast,pullingthemeatasideasyougo.Whenyouhitthewishbonefollowittothewingarea.

3.Returntheknifetothetailsectionandgentlyscrapethebreastmeatfromtheribs.Youcanpullthemeatawayfromthebonesatthispoint.

4.Removethesecondhalfinthesamemanner.

BoningtheThighsKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

Iprefertousebonelessthighs,usuallydiced,forChinesecooking.

1.Afterremovingtheskin,placethethighskin-sidedownwiththetopoftheboneawayfromyou.

2.Runthetipoftheknifedowneachsideofthebonetoloosenthemeattheninsertthetipunderneath,nearthetoptofreeit.

3.Holdthetopoftheboneandruntheknifeunderneathittothebottom.Removeboneandanysurroundinggristle.

BUTTERFLYINGACENTER-CUTLOINOFPORK

Thewhole loin of pork actually extends from the shoulder to the ham and isgenerallydividedintothreesections—theribend,centercut,andloinend.Wewillbedealingwiththecentercut,themostuniformpartoftheloinbutalsothemostdifficulttocookbecauseithastheleastamountoffat.It’sthe“otherwhitemeat”andmustnotbeovercooked.Asamatteroffact,itshouldbetingedpinkinthecenterwhendone.Idon’t takeitabove150°Fonthemeat thermometer.Bythetimethecarry-overcookinghastakenplace(thefinalriseintemperaturethatoccursastheroastrests),itreaches155°F.Trichinosis,aparasite,iskilledat139°Fto140°F.

Toroastanysectionoftheloinwhole,leaveitonthebone.Itcanberemovedfromtheboneaftercookingusingthistechnique.Ifyouwanttocookitonthebonebutserveitasachop,havethebutcherremovethechine(backbone)andtheattachedfeatherbonesforeasycarving,andremovetheparchmentlikefilmontheundersideofthebones.Inthepictureabove,myindexandmiddlefingerareonthechine.

BoningandButterflyingaCenter-CutLoinofPorkForabonelessroast,usea5-or6-inchboningknifetoremovethemeatfromtheribs.Asix-ribsectionisshownhere.

1.Keeptheknifeagainsttheribsandfollowthecurvature,pullingthemeatawayasyougo.Don’tthrowthebonesaway—roasttheminthepanalongwiththemeat.Theymakeforgoodnibblingandagreatsauce.

2.Tobutterflythecentercut,removetheflapofmeatandfatthatcoveredthebones.Don’tthrowthisawayeither—trimmed,itmakesgreatchili.

3.Placetheroastfat-sidedownandmakeapulledcuttothecenter.

4.Turntheknifesidewaysandcuttowardtheleftend(rightendifyou’releft-handed),stoppingaboutaninchfromtheend,thenusedelicatepullingstrokestoflattentheleftside(rightside)oftheopenbook.Turntheroastaroundanddotheotherside.

5.Thebutterfliedcutisnowreadyforstuffing,tying,androasting.

FRENCHINGARACKOFLAMB

A rack of lamb is delicious and expensive—costing between $15 and $18 perpound.Thebutcherwillfrenchitforyoubyscrapingallmeatandfatfromthebones, but it is not that difficult to do yourself.Have the butcher remove thechine(backbone)identifiedinthisphoto.Youwillfeelagreatsenseofprideandaccomplishmentbringingyourhandiworktothetable.

Lamb has a parchmentlike layer (the fell) that covers the fat and must beremoved,unlessthebutcherhasalreadyremovedit.Inadditionyouwillwanttoremovesomeofthefat.IfIamgoingtoroasttherackwithacrumbmixtureontop,Iremovealmostallthefat;otherwiseIleavesomeon.

FrenchingaRackofLambKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFE

1.Toremovesomeofthefat,insertthetipoftheboningknifeunderthefatandpushitthroughabout2or3inches.Makeparallelcutstotheoppositesidewithslightupwardpressure,keepingtheknifeagainstthelayeroffat.

2.Makeapulledcutacrosstheflapthatcoversthebones.Cutdowntothebonethenmakeoverlapping,pulledcutstotheends,pullingtheflapawayasyougo.

3.Makeasmallincisionbetweenthefeatherbonestofacilitatecarvinglater.

4.Removethemembranebyinsertingyourfingerortheendofaspoonunderonesidetoloosenit,thenpullitoff.

5.Trimthefatontopoftheexposedbones.

6.Removeasmuchmaterialasyoucanfrombetweenthebones,thenusetheblade’sedgetoscrapeuntilthebonesareclean.

PreparingaBiasCutSliceManyChinesedishesrequirebias-slicedmeat,chicken,orfish.Aflanksteakisusedherefordemonstrationpurposes.

A10-inchcarvingknifewillproduceathinslicewithoneforward-and-backmotion.

1.Placethesteakontheboardandmakealong,pulledstroketowardyoutocutthesteaklengthwisetothedesiredwidth.

2.Positionthestriphorizontallyatthenearedgeoftheboard.Placetheknifewhereyouwanttostartthecut.Raisethespineofthebladeabout⅛inch.Placeyourfingersontopofthesliceyouareabouttocut,usingthefingers-closedposition.Pushtheknifeforwarduntilthetipreachestheboard.Youwillhavecutmorethanhalfwaythroughatthispoint.

3.Pulltheknifetowardyouuntilthesliceisseparated.Inphoto3Boneslicehasalreadybeenremovedtoshowtheangleofthecut.Repositiontheknifeandrepeatthepush-pullcut,whichiseasilyaccomplishedifyoudon’tpressdown.

CuttingStewMeatKNIFE:10-INCHCHEF’SKNIFE

Cuttingachuckortoporbottomroundroastintocubesissimilartopreparingaflanksteak,atleastforthefirstcut.

1.Placethemeatontheboardvertically.Cutintoevenstripsusinglengthwisepullswiththetipendoftheknife.

2.Turnthestripshorizontally,andcutintocubesusingtheloworhightechnique,whicheverismorecomfortable.

SLICINGABONELESSROAST

Simply stated, this is the classic high technique using a carving (possiblyGranton-edge)or a10-inch scalloped-edgeknife in theperpendicularposition.This technique is no different than cutting fruits or vegetables using the hightechnique.Mostpeopleget into troubleslicingaroastbecause thefirstmotionwiththeknifeisdown,notacross.Dependingonthethicknessoftheroast,twoormaybeeventhreepasseswillbeneeded.Theknifemustbekeptangleduntilthesliceisnearlyseparated,thenthebladeisleveledwhenitreachestheboard.The cutting is done on the push only; the knife is kept in the groove andrepositionedonthepull.

FISHANDSHELLFISHFABRICATION

Fabricatingyourownfishandshellfishinvolvesaninvestmentinsomeuniqueknivesandinpracticetime,butitisanexcitingchallenge.Iamaproponentofcooking fish whole whenever possible—a practice employed and enjoyed bymany cultures around theworld—but I do enjoy sautéed, pan-fried, and evendeep-friedfillets.

Don’tbuyfilletsunlessyouhavenochoice. Ifyourfishmongersellswholefish,askfor it tobefilletedwhileyouwait.Get toknowyourfishmongerandmake it clear thatyouonlywantqualityproducts—Iexpectmine to tellme ifwhat Ihaveordered isnotup tomystandardsandsteerme towardsomethingelse.

Ifthefishyouarecontemplatinghasnotyetbeengutted,lookforclearandbrightratherthansunkeneyes,andtightscales.Asktoseethegills—theredder,the better. Although you are walking awaywith the fillets, you have actuallypaidforthewholefishandareentitledtotheframeorskeletonofthefishthat’sleftafterguttingand filleting.Whenyouhavebecomea regularcustomeryoucanaskyourfishmongertosavefourorfiveframesforyoutouseinfishstock.Generallyyou’llwanttheframesofwhite-meatfishonly.Dark-meatfishsuchasmackerelorbluefishwillproduceastockwithastrong,oilyflavornotsuitablefor neutral stocks. Every fishmarket knows howmany fish they are going tofilletorkeepwhole.Ifyoudon’trequestthem,theframeswillbethrownout.

Tellyourfishmongertogutbutnotscaleyourfish,unlessyouwanttocookthefishwhole,inwhichcaseyoushouldhaveitguttedandscaled.Unlessyoucanscalefishinthegreatoutdoors,havethefishmongerdoitforyouoryouwillbepickingscalesoffthefloor,walls,andceilingfordays.

Two types of fish—flatfish and round fish—will be used to illustrate thefilleting techniques. Each type has a different skeletal structure and requiresdifferentknives.

FlatfishThiscategoryoffishincludesflounder,Doversole,turbot,andhalibut.Flatfisharedarkontopandhavealighterunderbelly.Theyswimhorizontallyatornearthebottom,dark-sideup, soas tobenearly invisible topredators.Mostof thespeciesmentionedabovearesmall(1½to6pounds),buthalibutcanbeaslongas10feetandweighamuchas600pounds.

Newly hatched flatfish are bilaterally symmetrical but soon thereafter thebodyflattensandoneeyemigratessothatbotheyesareontopofthehead.Longribbonesradiatefromthebackbonetowardthedorsalandanalfinsoneachside,withthinnerbonessupportingthefins.Thebackandribboneswillhelptoguidetheknifeasyoufillet.

FilletingFlatfishForfilletingflatfish,Iusea6-inchsemiflexiblefilletingknife.Thefishmongerhasremovedallvisibleviscera(guts).Theresultingcavityiscalledthevisceralcavity.

1.Placethefishontheboard,dark-sideup,withtheheadfacingawayfromyou.Locatethevisceralcavityandthethin,centerlinethatrunsfromheadtotailjustabovethebackbone.

2.Makeadiagonalcutjustbehindthecavity,allacrossthebody.

3.Cutdownthecenterlinefromheadtotail.Youshouldfeelthetipoftheknifeonthebackbone.

4.Makeahorizontalcutjustabovethetail.

Right-handedchefswillworkontheleftsidefirst;leftieswillreversethis.

5.Atthetopoftheleft-sidefillet,insertabout1½inchesofthetipoftheknifeunderneaththefilletandonthebackbone.

6.Withtheflatoftheknifeagainsttheribbones,makeaseriesofshort,overlapping,pulledstrokes,workingfromheadtotail,pullingthefillettothesideasyougo.Often,thefilletcannotberemovedinonesweepdowntheribs.Halfwayacrosstheribs,gobacktothetopandrepeattheoverlapping-pullingmotionsagain.

7.Foldthefilletbackintoplace.Turnthefishsothattheheadisnowfacingyouandrepeattheprocessstartingatthetail.

8.Foldthisfilletbackintoplace.Turnthefishoverandusethesametechniquesonthelightside.Keepingthethicker,dark-sidefilletsonwhileyouremovethefilletsfromthelightsidemakesremovalofthesethinnerfilletseasier.

9.Toremovethefillet,eithermakeahead-to-tailcutwherethefilletendsandthesmallbonesthatsupportthedorsalandanalfinsbegin,orcutpastthesmallbones,pullthefilletoff,andtrimawaythebones.Turnthefishoverandremovethethickerfillets.Whenbothfilletshavebeenremoved,theskeletalstructureisrevealed.

This technique yields four fillets—two thick and two thin. It is possible toremovethetopandbottomfilletsinonepiecebymakingacutdownthelengthof one sidewhere the fillet ends and carefullyworking the knife toward thenoverthecenterbone,continuingontheotherside.Usethebonesasyourguide

andmakegentle,overlapping,pullingcuts.

SkinningaFillet1.Placethefilletskin-sidedownattheedgeofyourcuttingboardwiththeknifeatarightangle.Keeptheknife’shandlebehindtheboardatalltimes.Holdontothetailsectionwiththumbandindexfingerandinserttheknifeasbestyoucanbetweenthemeatandtheskin.Youwillloseabout½inchorso.

2.Keeptheknifeagainsttheskinandraisethespinejusthighenoughtoscrapealongtheskinbutnotcutit.Makelong,zigzagscrapesfromtailtohead.Thistechniqueisverysimilartotheparallelzigzagmotionusedtomakehorizontalcutsthroughanonionexceptthatwhenskinningafillettheknifeisturnedintheoppositedirectionandthebladeisangledslightlydown.Pulltheskinslightlydownandawayfromtheknifeasyougo.

3.Theproperlyexecutedskinningtechniqueleavesnoskinontheflesh.Ifthescaleshadbeenremoved,theskinwouldbesothinthatitwouldmostlikelytear.Ifyouplantoleavetheskinon,haveyourfishmongerscaleitforyou.

RoundFishWhentheyhearthewordfish,mostpeoplethinkofaroundfish,awatercreaturethatswimsverticallywitheyesonbothsidesofitshead.Ithasonlytwofillets,oneoneachside.Theskeletonisusuallynotassymmetricalasthatofflatfish;thedorsal(top)bonesarelongerthantheribsthatextendfromthebackbonetothebelly.Thebackbone,aswiththeflatfish,runsdownthecenterfromheadtotailandservesasaguidefortheknife.

Useapairofsturdykitchenscissorstoremovethefins,especiallythesharpdorsal(top)one,ifyourfishmongershasnotalreadydoneso.Inroundfish,thevisceralcavityisinthecenterofthebody,sothegillcover,thatalmostshell-likeflapyouliftedtoinspectthegillsforcolor,willbeyourstartingpoint.

Forfilletingroundfish,Iusean8-inchfilletknifeinsteadofthe6-inchoneusedfortheflatfishsothatIdon’thavetoswitchknivestoremovetheskin—theroundfishfilletiswiderthantheflatfishfillet.

FilletingRoundFish1.Placethefishatthenearedgeofyourboard,dorsalsidefacingyou,theheadtowardyourknife-handside.Angletheknifetowardtheheadandcutintothefleshjustbehindthegillcoveruntilyoufeelthebackbone.

2.Turnthebladeupandcutthebellyflap.

3.Insert1½to2inchesoftheknifeatandunderthetopofthefilletandagainstthebackbone.Makeshortoverlappingstrokestowardsthetail,pullingthefilletasideasyougo.

4.Nearthetail,pushtheknifeacrossthebonetotheothersideandloosenthemeatatthetail.

5.Gobacktothetopandworkthefilletoffthebones.

6.Turnthefishsothedorsalsidefacesyou,theheadtowardyourholding-handside.Forthefirstcutbehindthegillcover,angletheknifetowardtheheadandcutintothefleshuntilyoureachthebackbone.

7.Turnthebladeupandcutthebellyflap.Thenturnthebladetowardsthetail,knifeturnedoutwardstomaketheoverlappingcuts.Afteryouhaveloosenedthetailsection,turntheknifetowardsyourholdinghandandworkitfromtailtoheadtoremovethefillet.

SkinningaRoundFish1.Placethefilletskin-sidedownattheedgeofyourcuttingboardwiththeknifeatarightangle.Keeptheknife’shandlebehindtheboardatalltimes.Holdontothetailsectionwiththumbandindexfingerandinserttheknifeasbestyoucanbetweenthemeatandtheskin.Youwillloseabout½inchorso.

2.Keeptheknifeagainsttheskinandraisethespinejusthighenoughtoscrapealongtheskinbutnotcutit.Makelong,zigzagscrapesfromtailtohead.Thistechniqueisverysimilartotheparallelzigzagmotionusedtomakehorizontalcutsthroughanonionexceptthatwhenskinningafillettheknifeisturnedintheoppositedirectionandthebladeisangledslightlydown.Pulltheskinslightlydownandawayfromtheknifeasyougo.

3.Theproperlyexecutedskinningtechniqueleavesnoskinontheflesh.

SalmonIfthesalmonatmyBrooklynmarketareinthe4-to-6poundrange,Iliketofilletthemmyself,butI let thedealerdothebiggerfishsincehehasamuchlongercounter.Iusea10-inch,sharp-tippedcarvingknifeforfilletingthesalmon,notaso-called salmon slicer, a thin and very flexible blade used to cut paper-thinslicesfromsmokedsalmon.

Theplacementofthefishandthefirststepsinremovingthefilletsaresimilartothoseshownforthesnapper:

1.Makeanangledcutbehindthegillcoverdowntothebackbone.

2.Turnthebladeupandcutthebellyflap.

3.Insert2to3inchesoftheknifeatandunderthetopofthefilletandagainstthebackbone.

4.Thenliftthebellyflapandpushtheknifeacrossthebackbonetotheotherside.

5.Keepthebellyflapliftedand,withtheknife’sedgeonthebackbone,zigzagtoandthroughthetailsectionwherethefilletisremoved.

6.Turnthefishtoremovesidetwo.Thesequenceofcutsremainsthesame.Thefilletisremovedatthetail.Theknifewillbeturnedawayfromyourholdinghand.

7.Ifanyribbonesremainonthefillet,inserttheknifeunderneathwherethebackboneusedtobe.Keeptheknifeangledupagainsttheribsandremovethem,alongwithanyfattymaterial,atthebelly.

8.Theskinningprocessisthesameasforflatfishandroundfish.

9.Thoselittlewhitebonesyouseenearthecenterarecalledpinbones,andtheyneedtoberemoved.Runyourfingersacrossthemtoloosenthetops,thenremovewithneedle-nosepliers.

ShrimpThoseofyouwhothinkyouarebuyingfreshshrimpatthemarketareinforarudeawakening.Fresh shrimpare rarely available to thegeneralpublicunlessyou live in a shrimp-producing area of theUnitedStates, such as on theGulfCoast.Most of the shrimp available in the fishmarkets have been frozen andpackagedin5-poundblocks.Thebest-qualityfrozenshrimpcomefromfreezerboats,largefreighterlikeshipsthathaulin,sort,andfreezethecatchonboard.

Shrimp are sold by the count per pound.Designations such asU-12 (up to12),21–25and41–50indicatethenumberofshrimpperpound.Thehigherthenumber, thesmaller theshrimp.Dependingon thewaters fromwhich theyarehauled,theshellcanbegray,lightbrown,pinkor,inthecaseoftheAsiantigershrimp,linedwithdarkstripes.Avoidshrimpthathaveastrongammoniasmellordarkspotsontheshells.

Theveinisactuallytheintestinaltractoftheshrimpandrunsdowntheback.Most of the time I cook shelled,medium shrimpwithout bothering to deveinthem.Theveinisnotharmfultoeat,justunsightly.Ihaveeatenvein-inshrimpforover fortyyears, especially inNewYork’sAsian restaurantswhere shrimpcanbeservedwiththeheadandintheshell.Ideveinshrimpwhencookingthelarger sizes or anytime the shrimp are going to be either partially opened orbutterflied.

Peeling,Deveining,andButterflyingShrimpKNIFE:5-INCHBONINGKNIFEOR6-INCHUTILITYKNIFE

Topeel theshrimp,pulloff the legsanduseyour thumbs to remove theshell.For a nicer presentation, you can leave the last segment and tail on.You canfreezetheshellsandusethemtomakeaseafoodstock.

1.Todeveintheshrimp,eitherholditinyourhand,vein-side(back)up,andmakeapulled¼-inchincisionfromheadtotail(orlastsegment),orplacetheshrimpontheboardandmaketheincisionwiththebackfacingyou.

2.Removetheveinwiththetipoftheknifeandplaceitonapapertowel.Someonemaytrytosellyouaspecialknifeorplasticgizmoforremovingshrimpveinswhenaparing,utility,or5-inchboningknife(asshownbelow)willdoratherwell.Ibelongtothe“fewergadgetsisbetter”school.

3.Keepthetailsegmentattached.Placetheshrimpontheboardandmakeaparallel,pulledcutfromthetailsegmenttothehead,cuttingalmostthroughtothebottom.

4.Spreadthetwohalvesopenlikeabookusingtheflatoftheknifetopress.

BIBLIOGRAPHYOFBOOKSANDWEBSITES

Books:

Beard,James,etal.,editors.TheCook’sCatalogue.NewYork:Avon,1975.

Bridge,Fred,andJeanF.Tibbetts.TheWell-TooledKitchen.NewYork:WilliamMorrow,1991.

Campbell,Susan.Cook’sTools.NewYork:Bantam,1981.

Child,Julia.TheWayToCook.NewYork:AlfredA.Knopf,1989.

Conran,TerenceandCaroline.TheCookBook.NewYork:Crown,1980.

TheCulinaryInstituteofAmerica.TheProfessionalChef’sKnifeKit.NewYork:JohnWiley&Sons,2000.

Day,ChristopherP.,withBrendaR.Carlos.KnifeSkillsforChefs.UpperSaddleRiver,NJ:PearsonPrenticeHall,2007.

Gisslen,Wayne.ProfessionalCooking,4thedition.NewYork:JohnWiley&Sons,1999.

Pépin,Jacques.LaMéthode.NewYork:TimesBooks,1979.

Pépin,Jacques.LaTechnique.NewYork:TimesBooks,1976.

Victorinox.TheKnifeandItsHistory.Ibach,Germany:1984.

Willan,Anne.LaVarennePractique.NewYork:Crown,1989.

UsefulWebsites:

If there is no major cookware store in your immediate area, the followingwebsites will offer you an opportunity to do some comparison shopping forknives, cutting boards, honing and sharpening equipment. Observe the returnpolicyandshippingchargescarefully.

www.artisantable.com/

www.broadwaypanhandler.com

www.chefdepot.net

www.chefknifes.com

www.chefknivestogo.com

www.cookswares.com

www.cutleryandmore.com

www.fantes.com

www.jbprince.com

www.kitchencutlery.net

www.knife-depot.com

www.knifemerchant.com

www.knifeoutlet.com

www.korin.com

www.nwcutlery.com

www.surlatable.com

www.thebestthings.com/knives

www.williams-sonoma.com

Maintenance—Wheretogetyourknivessharpened

Thefollowingsiteshaveinformationonhowtobringormailyourknivesintohavethemsharpened:www.accuratesharp.com–Tempe,AZ

www.ambrosicutlery.com–Mahopac,NY

www.broadwaypanhandler.com–NewYork,NY

www.countryknives.com–Intercourse,PAwww.holleyknives.commail-inonlywww.jivanos.com–SanFranciscokramerknives.com–Olympia,WAwww.mrleonardknifesharpener.com–Midlothian,VAwww.mortytheknifeman.com–CapeCoral,FL

www.northbeachshop.com–SanFranciscowww.theknifeguy.com–mail-inonlyCaveatEmptor:

Manyofthelargerretailstoresofferaknifesharpeningservice.Pleasereadthecautionsinthechapteronsharpening.Knowwhatyoubroughtorsentin.Knowwhatyougotback.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thisbookwouldnothavecometofruitionwithoutthecompletededicationof:

MichaelBourret,myagentatDystel&Goderichwhotaughtmetobepatient;MarisaBulzone, theacquisitioneditor;andLuisaWeiss, thebook’seditorandshepherdess. Special kudos go to the designer, LeAnna Weller Smith; theproductionmanager, Tina Cameron; the photographer,Mark Thomas, withoutwhomthisbookwouldbebutalotofwords;andAlanMadison,thedirectoroftheDVDthataccompaniestheprintbook.

Special thanks to Rick Smilow and the staff of The Institute of CulinaryEducation for their support of my Knife Skills classes and this book; CathyMcCauley andAlCappellini ofCooktique;DavidMartoneofClassicThyme;Kings’Supermarkets;SurLaTable;BillLiederman,whogavememy start atTheNewSchoolCulinaryArtsProgram;andalltheothercookingschoolsthathaveaffordedmetheopportunitytohonemycraft.

I am extremely grateful to the following individuals or companies for theirassistancewith product or invaluable technical informationwithoutwhich thisbookcouldnothavebeenwritten:

CuttingBoards:

J.K.AdamsCo.,BallyBlockCo., JohnBoos&Co.,AlLaddWoodworking,MichiganMapleBlockCo.,SnowRiverWoodProducts,TheVermontButcherBlockandBoardCo.,andTotallyBamboo.

KnifeManufacturers:

Dexter-Russell, Inc., F. Dick, Edgecraft Corporation, Granton, Zwilling J. A.Henckels, Kershaw Knives, Korin Japanese Trading, Lamson and Goodnow,Messermeister, Sabatier, Swiss Army/Victorinox, and a special thanks to theWüsthof-TridentofAmerica(andGermany)organizationfor itsmanyyearsofsupport.

OtherCompaniesorOrganizations:

Broadway Panhandler, The Holley Manufacturing Co., JB Prince, JuliusKirschner and Sons, EDACO, Knifemerchant, Morty The Knife Man, TheNationalOnionAssociation,andNorton-Pike.

Finally, Iwish to thank the thousands of studentswhohave allowedme tosharemyideasandhelpedmetobecomeabetterteacher.

IndexofSearchTerms

AAdams,J.K.All-purposegripAngledknifepositionAngledstance/knifestraightaheadApple(s)dicingpeelingandcoringslicingthinlywedges

ArcholdArkansasstones

BBagels,slicingBalancetestBallyBlockCo.BamboocuttingboardsBananasBasil,chiffonadeofBâtonnetBeef:bias-slicingbonelessroast,slicingcuttingintostewmeatBellpepper(s)ringsstripsordice

Bellyoffsetknivesand

Benchstones.SeeSharpeningstonesBias,cuttingonBird’sbeak(tourne)knivesBird’sbeakpommelBladeBlocks,storingknivesinBlocksetsBolsterBonelessroasts,slicingBoningknivesBoos&Company,JohnBoswell,James

Bourdain,AnthonyBreadknivesseealsoScalloped-edgeknivesBroccoli,separatingfloretsand

stalkofBronzeAgeBrown,AltonBrunoiseBurr,raisingButcherblocksButtButterflyingcenter-cutloinofporkchickenbreastshrimp

CCabbageAsian,cuttingonbiasquarteringshredding

Cakes,cuttingintolayersCalphalonCamberCarbonsteelCarrotsdicingnoncubeddiceof

CarvingkniveswithGrantonedgeknifepositionsfor

CatskillCraftsmenCelerydicingjulienneslicing

CeramicsteelsCheeseknivesChef’sChoiceChef’sknivescarbonsteel

cuttinglowandhighitemswithcuttingonbiaswithcuttingstancefordicingwith5-,6-,and7-inchforged,costofwithGrantonedgegripforguidehandwithknifepositionsforpullingtechniqueforChickenbias-slicingbreasts;bone-in,splittingboningfrombackboningfromfrontbutterflyingcutletsgettingbonelesslegsandthighs:boningthighsremovingseparatinglowerback,removingskinandtenders,removingupperbackandneck,removingwings,removing

ChiffonadeChildren,knifesafetyandChilepeppers,seedinganddicingChives,mincingChoilimpropersharpeningandChoppingherbs

Cilantro,choppingCliver,DeanO.Concassé,tomatoCooper,Malcolm,Sr.CopperAgeCoriancuttingboardsCoringgripCorn,removingkernelsfromCostofknivesCrinklecuttersCrystolonstonesCucumber(s):flyingfish

quarteringanddicingslicingCulinaryInstituteofAmericaCutlers,professionalCutting,useoftermCutting

boardsbambooforcarvingmeatorpoultryfootedglass,marble,orCorianhardrubberhistoryofparticleboardplasticsafetyissuesandscoremarksinselectingsizeoftwo-sidedseealsoWoodencuttingboardsD

DecorativegarnishesDexter-Russellboningkniveschef’sknivesoffsetknives

DiamondsteelsDiamondwhetstonesDicingintononcubeddiceroundandsemirounditemsroundtapereditemsseealsospecificfruitsand

vegetablesDick,F.boningkniveschef’sknivescrinklecuttersoffsetknivesparingknivesscalloped-edge,sharp-tippedslicer/carversteels

Drop-forgingDryingknivesDullknivesseealsoSharpeningknivesEEdge-grainboardsEdges

maintaining.SeealsoHoningknives;SharpeningknivestestingforsharpnessEggington

EggplantsElectricsharpenersEmerich,JoeEnd-grainboardsErgonomichandlesEvenlysizedpieces

FFilletingfish.SeeFishFilletingknivesFingerguardFingers-bunchedpositionFingers-closedpositionFingers-openpositionFishbias-slicingflatfish:filletingskinningroundfish:filletingskinningsalmon,filletingshoppingforstock,gatheringframesforFlanksteak,bias-slicingFlat-grainboards

FlügelForgedknivescostof

Forschnercheeseknivesfilletingknives

FrenchingrackoflambFruits,preparingseealsospecificfruitsFulltangknives

GGarlicmincingpureeingslicing

Garnishes,decorativeGinger:

mincingpeeling

GlasscuttingboardsGranton-edgeknivesGrapefruit(s)suprêmeswedges

GrindingservicesGrips:all-purposecoringforandinchknivesforparingandutilityknivespeelingscrapingsnippy

Guidehand

HHandedness:Japaneseknivesandscalloped-edgeknivesandHandingknifetosomeoneHandleergonomicsand

HandsizeHardrubberboardsHeelHenckelsboningknivescarvingkniveschef’sknivesfilletingknivesoffsetknivesparingknivesSantokuscalloped-edgeknivesutilityknives

Herbschiffonadeof

choppingHigh-carbonstainlesssteelknivesHighitems,distinguishinglowitemsfrom

HightechniqueadjustingfordifferentheightsHollow-groundknivesHoningknivestwo-steelmethodfor

Honingsteelscaringforchoosingdiamondhoningkniveswithstoringtwo-steelmethodand

IIndiastonesIndustrialAgeIronAge

JJapaneseknivesJapanesewaterstonesusingJulienneceleryleek

KKangarooblocksKatana,KershawKirschnerandSons,JuliusKitchenConfidential(Bourdain)KnifeblocksKnifepositionsKnifeProKnives:anatomyof

assessingyourneedsforcontemporarymanufacturingmethodsforcostofmaintaining.SeealsoHoningknives;Sharpeningknivesoriginsandhistoryof

safetywithselectionprocessforstoring

KorinJapaneseTradingCorp.

LLadd,AlLamb:Frenchingrackofremovingfatfrom

Lamson&Goodnow(LamsonSharp)LamsonSharp:cheeseknivesoffsetknivesparingknivesSantokuslicingknives

Leek(s)cleaningringsstripsorjulienne

Lemon(s):slicingstarswedges

LengthdesignationsLime(s):slicingwedges

LosAngelesTimes,Lowitems,distinguishinghighitemsfromLowtechniquewithlongerchef’sknifeM

MagneticbarsMalgieri,NickMango(s)

cubesslicesandpieces

MaplecuttingboardsMarblecuttingboardsMeatbias-slicingbonelessroast,slicinglamb,Frenchingrackofpork,boningandbutterflying

center-cutloinofstew,cuttingMelon(s)pieceswedges

Messermeisterchef’sknivesfilletingknivesoffsetknivesparingknivesscalloped-edgeknivestourne(bird’sbeak)knivesMichiganMapleBlock

CompanyMincingseealsospecificvegetablesMushroomsdicingormicingslicing

NNectarines,slicingNg,JoeNoncubeddiceNo-rollholdNortonPike

OOffsetknivesOilstonesOnion(s)cryingfromdicinghalfringspeelingquartersorchunks

ringsstrips

Onion,KenOrange(s)basketsuprêmeswedges

PPalm-on-topholdParallelknifepositionParallelstance/angledknifeParingkniveswithGrantonedgegripsforknifepositionsfor

Parsley,choppingParsnipsParsons,RussParticleboardPeaches,slicingPeelinggripsPeppers.SeeBellpepper(s);ChilepeppersPerpendicularknifepositionPickles:quarteringanddicingslicing

Pineapple(s)piecesrings

Plasticcuttingboardsindifferentcolorswoodencuttingboardsvs.

Plums,slicingPommelPorkboningandbutterflyingcenter-cutloinofPotatoesdicing

PrecisionforgingPullingmotionPull-throughsharpenersPurchasedecisions

Pushingmotion

RReichart,JamesRepairingknivesRivetsRolls,slicingRosemary,choppingRoutedcuttingboardsRubberboards

SSabatierchef’sknivesutilityknives

SafetyconcernsSalmon,filletingSantokuScallionsdicingormincingshredding

Scalloped-edge(serrated)knivesoffset

ScrapinggripSets,buyingknivesinShallotsmincing

Sharpeningknivescostofdo-it-yourselftoolsforelectricsharpenersforbyprofessionalcutlers

Sharpeningstonesdiamondfree-standingvs.fixedinbasegrainorgritsizesofoilstonesusingwater

Sharpness,testingforSheathsShrimp

butterflyingkeepingveininpeelinganddeveiningShun

SlicingseealsospecificvegetablesSlicingknives:withGrantonedgeseealsoScalloped-edgeknivesSnippygrip

SnowRiverWoodProductsSpecialtyknivesSpineStainlesssteelStampedknivesStance,forcuttingSteakknivesSteelingknives.SeeHoning;HoningsteelsStewmeat,cuttingStoneAgeStoringknivesinblocksonmagneticbarssafetyand

Strawberry(ies)fanshullingquarteringorslicingStringbeans

Sugai,ChiharuSullivan,TomSuprêmes:grapefruitorange

SwarfSwissArmy

TTangTeethThiers-IssardTip

Tomato(es)concassécoringdicingpeelingrosesslicingwedges

TomatoknivesTotallyBambooTourne(bird’sbeak)knivesTransportingknivesTruingknives.SeeHoningTurnips

UUtilityknivesgripsforknifepositionsfor

VVegetables,preparingseealsospecificvegetablesVictorinoxboningkniveschef’sknivesfilletingknivesSantoku

WWashingcuttingboardsindishwasherWashingknivesWaterstonesJapaneseusing

Whetstones.SeeSharpeningstonesWolf,BurtWoodencuttingboardsaestheticappealof

assemblyofbambooandotherwoodsincracksinexpansion-contractioncycleofmaintainingmapleoilingold,restoringparticleboardplasticcuttingboardsvs.withroutingaroundedgeorhandlesscoremarksinstoring

Wüsthof-Tridentboningknivescheesekniveschef’sknivescrinklecuttersfilletingknivesGranton-Edgecarveroffsetknivesparingknivesscalloped-edgeknivesslicingknives

YYan,MartinYellowsquash:quarteringanddicingslicing

ZZottola,EdmundZucchini:quarteringanddicingslicing

ZwillingJ.A.Henckels

Formorethan20years,NORMANWEINSTEIN,achef-instructorattheInstituteofCulinaryEducation,hastaughteveryonefromfirst-timecookstoprofessionalchefshowtoselectanduseknives.HehasbeenprofiledinWineSpectatorandtheNewYorkTimesMagazine,andhasappearedontheFoodNetwork.The2003honoreeoftheNewYorkAssociationofCulinaryProfessionals,WeinsteinlivesinNewYorkCity.

MARKTHOMASisaNewYork–basedphotographerspecializinginfood,lifestyle,andtravelphotography.HisworkhasappearedinSTC’sOperaLover’sCookbookandEndangeredRecipes,andherecentlycompletedfourbooksforWilliams-Sonoma.Thomas’sworkalsoappearsregularlyinBonAppétit.

Jacketphotographs©2008byMarkThomasJacketdesignbyLeAnnaWellerSmith

115West18thStreetNewYork,NY10011www.stcbooks.com