Masonry Basics - The Tools You Need and How to Use Them

8/10/2019 Masonry Basics - The Tools You Need and How to Use Them

1/5

6/7/13 Masonry Basics - The Tools You Need and How to Use Them.

www.masonryforlife.com/HowToBasics.htm

This section is dedicated to the do-it-yourselfers. It includes information ontools and equipment needed to get started, the basics of building concreteblock walls, garden walls, patio pavers (sidewalks and patios), how to usemortar and grouting techniques.

Also included in this section are the different sizes, shapes, types and kindsof masonry materials, and where you can go to purchase these materials.We'll also link you to other sites that might provide even greater informationin helping you with your project!

You've heard it said many times, having the right tools makes any job easier.Before you start, there are some basic tools and equipment you'll need. Thesetools may change depending on the type of job, but generally, the followingtools are required when building a masonry wa ll:

There are different kinds and sizes o f trowels. The blade should be made offorged stee l to last longer. Handles are generally made of plastic or wood.Blades vary from 9 to 12 inches in length and 4 to 7 inches in width. The largertrowels a re used for spreading mortar. A variety of smaller trowels are usedrepairing old mortar joints and scraping off excess mortar. A trowel that you

feel comfortable w ith can be used to do all ofthe above, however, you will need a separatetool to finish the mortar joints.

The two most popular trowels are called thePhiladelphia trowel and the London trowel.

Learning to hold the trowel correctly is important and will make the job easier.Gripping the handle w ith four fingers and putting the thumb on top of themetal band (ferrule) on the handle is how most masons hold a trowe l.

The next step is learning how to load a trowel w ith mortar. Some people liketo fill the trowel by cutting mortar from the top. Others will load the trowelwith mortar by cutting from the front, and still others will load by cuttingmortar from the side. Your comfort level will dictate your style. Once the trowelis loaded, you must settle the mortar on the trowel by snapping your wrist.This keeps the mortar from slipping off the trowel, especially when you are

buttering head joints. The head joint is the joint that runs up and down theblock. The bed joint is the one that runs along the top of the block. The bedjoint is horizontal, the head jo int is vertical.

When laying the mortar on the block, line the mortar side of the trowel on the
http://www.masonryforlife.com/contact_us.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#CEhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#CWhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#PIMhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#ROChttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#AMGMNhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Calendar.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/GreenBuildConsum.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Excellence2012.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Habitat.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/community.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/HowToProjects.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/HowToBasics.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Builders.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/FAQ.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Energy.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Benefits.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/ForConsumers.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/linksMembers.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/productguideMembers.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/career.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Members.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/BecomeMember.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/AboutAMGConsumer.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/index.htm


2/5



side of the block where you want the mortar. In one quick motion, slide thetrowel down, using the s ide of the block as a guide (the trowel should lightlyscrape along the side of the block during your downward motion).

This tool is used for hammering nails and for splitting block or brick with theother end. One end is square and flat and is used like a hammer. The other

end is sharp, like a small chisel. The sharp chise l-end isused to make a cutting line around the masonry to besplit. Light blows w ith the chisel-end a ll the way aroundthe block or brick and then a sharp blow with thehammer end will give a clean cut. You might need topractice on a few pieces before it all comes together.

The chisel-end is then used to take off any burrs or pieces which have notbroken off cleanly. The mason's hammer can become dangerous if not properlyused. Chips can fly off the masonry being cut and injure the face and eyes.ALWAYS USE GOGGLES WHEN SPLITTING MASONRY.

If there are more than just a few blocks or bricks that need to be split, andvery clean cuts are required, then a blocking chisel should be used. This is a

heavier, wider chisel, up to 8 inches wide. Itcomes in a variety of sizes and shapes. Thesechisels are made of steel and are used byholding the small end and striking the end witha heavy mashing hammer, mallet or sledgehammer. This w ill give a clean cut with usuallyjust one blow.

Amashing hammer is used to strike the chiselwhen cutting block. It is not recommended touse a mason's hammer to strike the chisel sincethe tempered stee l might split and a piece flyoff. A mashing hammer has two striking endsand w ill weigh from two to four pounds.

If you are cutting large quantities of block or brick, you may want to use amasonry power saw. The two bas ic types ofsaws are either hand-held or table saws. Thehand-held saws usually have a silicon bladeabout 6 or 7" high and, therefore, will not give aclean cut all the way through an 8" block. But ahand-held saw is much quicker and gives acleaner cut rather than working w ith a chisel

and hammer.

Atable-mounted saw with an electric motor is always used when there is alot of cutting. Blades are normally 14 to 20" high and will cut through any kind

of masonry block or brick, especially if the blade is made of industrialdiamonds.

All masonry saws can be very dangerous. Safety goggles are a must andrings and jewelry should not be worn. The same is true for any loose-fittingclothing. If an industrial diamond blade is used, the blade must be cooled withwater during cutting to keep the blade from shattering.

Adry cut can be made with a silicon-carbide blade, bonded with reinforcedmesh. However, dry cutting throws out a lot of dust and a dust mask or


3/5



resp ra or mus e worn.

Next to the trowel, the level is the second most important tool to have whenbuilding a wall. A good level is lightweight and abso lutely straight. The be tterlevels are called spirit levels because they contain alcohol in the vials insteadof oil. Alcohol is more accurate.

The purpose of the level is to keep the workyou are doing plumb (even up and down, orvertically) and even straight across, orhorizontally. A good level usually has 6 vials,two in the center, two at each end. The bubblemust line up between the two red or black linesin order to be straight or level. If you lay more

than one block at a time, you might want to ge t a level that is at least 36"long. Some levels are available up to 48", although mostly used byprofessional masons. Since most block is 16" long, you'll want a level between18" and 24".

In order to have an easier time laying a straight wall, a mason's line is

recommended. It is recommended that you use a nylon or dacron line,stretched between two corners (and anchored at the corners) of the wall youare building. By laying the line, you won't haveto depend on your level as often, speeding upthe job. A mason's line w ill let you build wallswithout bulges or hollows. A mason's line isplaced very close to the block you are laying,but with enough room to still permit you toswipe off the excess mortar without disturbingthe line.

When laying your wall, you'll want to make sure your corners are at a 90

degree angle, assuming you're building a square or rectangle wa ll. A largestee l square, usually 24" long, should be usedfor marking off corners when laying out the job,and for checking corners as the wall is beingbuilt. If you are building a room, garage, etc.,you'll also want to use a 12" square forchecking window and door openings. If theseopenings are not square, the windows and

door may not fit.

Ajointer is used to finish a mortar joint after it becomes hard enough so that

a finger print will show in the mortar upon being pressed. Jointers come inmany sizes and shapes, but typically, for blocks, you'll use a sled jointer tocreate a 3/8th inch joint for long horizontal joints. Vertical or head joints,which are only 8" high, use a smaller jointer. Jointers are shaped to give avariety of indentations, depending on your preference. The most popular arethe V joint and the half-rounded joint (concavejoint). These two kinds of joints help shedwater better than any other kind of joint.

If you are using clay brick, or other brickproducts, you w ill want to use a jointer madespecifically for brick.


4/5



Achalk line comes in a metal or plastic case, with a cotton line coming out ofone end. As the line is pulled out, it passesthrough a fine chalk powder, usually blue orred. When this line is stretched between twopoints and snapped, it will leave an imprint onthe surface being snapped. A chalk line is usedfor laying out a block wall on a concretefoundation to get the a lignment correct.

After a wa ll is built, there may be some mortar stains or powder residue onthe wall. Before cleaning solutions a re used, these marks can often bebrushed off the surface. A variety of brushesare available. Powder residue can usually bebrushed off with a medium soft bristle brush. Alight accumulation of mortar could be brushedwith a s tiff bristle brush. If not,an abrasive stone or piece of same block orbrick after testing in an obscure area may dothe job.

Stains that don't respond to brushing should be cleaned with a specialsolution and brushing with a stiff bristle brush. Watering the wall down beforeand after the wash and brushing is necessary so that the solution isn'tabsorbed into the wall before it can work.

On small jobs, it probably won't pay to used a powered mortar mixer. Several

tools are needed to mix mortar. A regular shovel with a square edge will beneeded to proportion materials. A large hoe with two holes in the blade isused to actually mix the mortar sand, masonry cement and water. The holes inthe blade make it eas ier to pull the hoe through the mix and to break up thelumps.

You will also need either a mortar box or wheel barrow to mix your mortar in,

and a water bucket to measure and add water to the mix. Mortar boxes a reusually made of heavy gauge plastic or steel. Once the mortar is mixed,transfer the mortar to a mortar board or hawk, from which you will work whenapplying the mortar.

(Source: "Building Block Walls: A Basic Guide"

by the National Concrete Masonry Association, Herndon, VA)

Block Walls Brick Sidewalks

Return to the Main

Consumer Pa e
http://www.masonryforlife.com/ForConsumers.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/ForConsumers.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/PatioPavers.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/BlockWalls.htm


5/5



To improve the quality of life for all people through the creation and development of

timeless and environmentally friendly masonry structures.

[Home] [About AM G] [Contact Us] [Become a Member] [Start a Masonry Career]

[AMG Member Newsletter] [ROC (Registar of Contractors) Message] [Profiles in Masonry] [Competition Winners] [Current Events]

[Events Calendar] [AMG Member Directory] [Product Guides] [Industry Links][Overall Benefits of Masonry] [Energy Value of Masonry vs. Wood] [Frequently Asked Q uestions] [Masonry Home Builders]

[Masonry "How to" Basics] [Step-by-Step Projects] [Habitat for Humanity] [Award Winning Projects] ["Green Build"]

2007 Arizona Masonry Guild Phoenix, Arizon
http://www.masonryforlife.com/GreenBuildConsum.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Village_2007.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Habitat.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/HowToProjects.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/HowToBasics.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Builders.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/FAQ.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Energy.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Benefits.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/linksMembers.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/productguideMembers.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Members.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/Calendar.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#CEhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#CWhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#PIMhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#ROChttp://www.masonryforlife.com/News.htm#AMGMNhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/career.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/BecomeMember.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/contact.htmlhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/AboutAMGConsumer.phphttp://www.masonryforlife.com/index.htmhttp://www.masonryforlife.com/ForConsumers.htm

Documents

Masonry Basics - The Tools You Need and How to Use Them