Upload
business-journal-inc
View
215
Download
3
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
Mario's Fashion Forum
Citation preview
Cover_Final.indd 1Cover_Final.indd 1 1/15/11 10:57 AM1/15/11 10:57 AM
AgaveSprd:Layout 1 1/4/11 10:34 AM Page 1
AgaveSprd:Layout 1 1/4/11 10:34 AM Page 2
HU
GO
BO
SS
FA
SH
ION
S I
NC
.
Ph
on
e +
1 21
2 94
0 06
00
BO
SS
Bla
ck
Boss_AD.ps - 1/4/2011 9:47 AM
ZegnaSingle.ps - 2/3/2011 10:32 AM
PORTLANDMARIO’S MEN + WOMEN833 SW BroadwayPortland, OR 97205503.227.3477
BRIDGEPORT VILLAGEMARIO’S 3.1017031 SW 72nd AvenueTigard, OR 97224503.601.7310
SEATTLEMARIO’S MEN + WOMEN1513 6th AvenueSeattle, WA 98101206.223.1461
MARIOS.COMFind us on Facebook
CON
TEN
TS
Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions
for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2011.
Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856,
203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office:
1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for
advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other
materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written
permission of the publishers. Volume 14, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A
ELEMENTS OF SPRING 2011 EDITORIALMEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR
Mario Bisio
WOMEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR
Lynwood Holmberg
DESIGN / CONCEPT / PHOTO ART DIRECTOR
Steve Kennevan
MARKETING MANAGER
Rachel Stroble
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Patrick Angus
FASHION / PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHER
Darrell Peterson
FORUM FEATURE ARTICLESEDITOR-IN-CHIEF
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
DESIGN DIRECTOR
HANS GSCHLIESSER
MANAGING EDITOR
JILLIAN SPRAGUE
PROJECT MANAGER
LISA MONTEMORRA
DESIGNERS
CYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
PRODUCTION MANAGER
PEG EADIE
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
HUGH K. STANTON
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP
PUBLISHER
STUART NIFOUSSI
PRESIDENT AND CEO
BRITTON JONES
CHAIRMAN AND COO
MAC BRIGHTON
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
CHRISTINE SULLIVAN
APPAREL FORUM
ANDRISEN MORTON DENVER, CO
GARYS NEWPORT BEACH, CA
HUBERT WHITE MINNEAPOLIS, MN
KILGORE TROUT CLEVELAND, OH
LARRIMOR’S PITTSBURGH, PA
MALOUF’S LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
MARIO’S PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA
MITCHELLS/MARSHS HUNTINGTON, NY
MITCHELLS/RICHARDS WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT
OAK HALL MEMPHIS, TN
RODES LOUISVILLE, KY
RUBENSTEINS NEW ORLEANS, LA
STANLEY KORSHAK DALLAS, TX
WILKES BASHFORD SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FEATURES 7 Welcome Letter 8 Hip Happenings12 Cut from the Same Cloth 62 Inspiration: The Warhol Look
FASHION14 Elements of Spring 201150 Forward Thinking: Hugo Boss53 Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer58 Accessories: Ode to the Pocket Square60 Lived-in Luxury: Boglioli66 Fashion Index68 No Ordinary Middle Man: Isaia
DEPARTMENTS 44 In Store: Events and Services46 Ask Mario48 Ask Lynwood
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 4Final_Pages_Misc.indd 4 2/3/11 4:42 PM2/3/11 4:42 PM
Diesel.ps - 1/25/2011 5:56 PM
*chic inconventionnel
MAR_P6_Lacoste.ps - 2/4/2011 9:09 AM
This spring, fashion’s in a good mood —and so are we. And why not? At Mario’s, we just celebrated our 50th Anniversary, a wonderful milestone. And we owe it all to you: our valued customers who have supported us so loyally throughout the years. And our vendors: yes, you represent some of the most celebrated names in fashion, but you’re also some of the greatest people we know. And finally, we want to thank our amazing staff. The heart and soul of Mario’s, these dedicated professionals truly love what they do. And we think you’ll agree, their passion shows.
So here’s to a bright outlook and the elements of spring 2011. This is fresh, wearable fashion that evokes confidence and makes you happy. Now more than ever, it’s time to live with passion. Play with style. And be inspired.
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 7Final_Pages_Misc.indd 7 1/24/11 6:33 PM1/24/11 6:33 PM
HIP HAPPENINGSParties, People & Fashion
Brunello Cucinelli
Hugo BossAG Adriano Goldscmied
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 8Final_Pages_Misc.indd 8 1/24/11 6:33 PM1/24/11 6:33 PM
Hudson Jeans
Isaia Napoli
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 9Final_Pages_Misc.indd 9 1/24/11 6:33 PM1/24/11 6:33 PM
MADE IN ITALY
pau
lsh
ark.
it
MAR_PaulShark:Layout 1 1/6/11 12:48 PM Page 1
TO BE ONE OF A KIND
Brioni.ps - 1/25/2011 4:22 PM
10years Loan Lam
11years
Thao Hoang-Nguyen
19 years Emily Calderwood
16 years Donne Gordon
13years Eva Sergeeff
10years
Sandy Orsillo
22years
Karen Degman
10years
Christa Carlson
11years
Mai Lee
11 years
PalineeTantikulanta
13 years Scott Stutznegger
13years Micah Fritz 10
years Zach Karanasos
12 years Patrick Angus
18years Summer Jameson
18years Audrey Anderson
“I sell the most beautiful clothing in the
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 12Final_Pages_Misc.indd 12 1/24/11 6:34 PM1/24/11 6:34 PM
world to the nicest people in town.”— Sue Goffard
Everyone at Mario’s—from our talented tailors to our buyers and salespeople—
shares a passion for the very best. This common thread
binds us together in everything we do. And we know that, like a fi nely crafted garment, every
detail is key. So we’d like to take this opportunity to salute
our entire team of talented professionals—and highlight those who have contributed
more than 10 years of loyal service.
a legacy of dedication
11years
Kelly DeGrate
13years
Simon Chan
20years Lynwood Holmberg
13 years Bessie Callis
11 years Chris Poullos
10years
Kathy Blake
28years
Elaine Ford
10 years Soozee Yee
11 years
Sue Goffard
10 years Ivy Jensen
12 years Laurel Williams
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 13Final_Pages_Misc.indd 13 2/3/11 4:45 PM2/3/11 4:45 PM
14
Vinc
e
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 14Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 14 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
Moncleer AG AAdriano GGoldschmiedG
15
Moncler AG Adriano Goldschmied
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 15Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 15 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
16
Peter Cohen Paige Premium Denim
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 16Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 16 2/3/11 4:52 PM2/3/11 4:52 PM
17
Diesel
LIVE
WIT
H P
ASSI
ON
, PL
AY W
ITH
STY
LE
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 17Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 17 2/3/11 4:53 PM2/3/11 4:53 PM
18
Irene Neuwirth
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 18Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 18 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
19
Narciso Rodriguez
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 19Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 19 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
20
BOSS Orange
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 20Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 20 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
21
Lanvin Paris
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 21Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 21 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
22
Isaia Napoli
MAKE A BIG
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 22Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 22 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
23
Stone Island Hudson
Huds
on C
olle
ctio
n
SPLASH
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 23Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 23 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
24
Etro
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 24Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 24 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
25
Black Label
Ralph Lauren
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 25Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 25 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
26
Ste
ven
Alan
Edw
in
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 26Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 26 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
27
Brunello Cucinelli
BLUE SKIESAHEAD
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 27Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 27 1/15/11 11:06 AM1/15/11 11:06 AM
28
Dean Harris
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 28Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 28 1/15/11 11:07 AM1/15/11 11:07 AM
29
Paul
Sm
ithAg
ave
L’Agence
A N
ATU
RAL
MAT
CH
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 29Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 29 1/15/11 11:07 AM1/15/11 11:07 AM
30
eesseel Blaacck GoolddDiesel Black Gold
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 30Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 30 1/15/11 11:07 AM1/15/11 11:07 AM
31
Albe
rto
Ferm
ani
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 31Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 31 1/15/11 11:07 AM1/15/11 11:07 AM
32
B.May
Clare Tough
Twenty
Metallic Python Clutch
Suede Open-Toe
Sandal
Ribbon TrimmedTwinset
Tiered Tank
Alberto Fermani
Forever-chic styles look
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 32Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 32 2/3/11 4:53 PM2/3/11 4:53 PM
33
Clare Tough
Casadei
Casadei
Moncler
Strappy Platform Sandal
Cropped MilitaryJacket
EmbroideredSheer
Twinset
Jeweled Metallic Sandal
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 33Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 33 2/3/11 4:53 PM2/3/11 4:53 PM
34
Edun
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 34Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 34 1/15/11 11:08 AM1/15/11 11:08 AM
35
YOUR FAVORITE SKINNIESnow so fresh in colored denim or true blues
AG Adriano Goldschmied 7 for all Mankind Hudson
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 35Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 35 1/15/11 11:08 AM1/15/11 11:08 AM
36
Boss Black $175
WillLeatherGoods
$145
John Varvatos$175
Mason’s$150
to $165
Lacoste Vintage$85
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 36Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 36 1/19/11 2:25 PM1/19/11 2:25 PM
37
Mulholland$325
Walkover$225
AG Adriano
Goldschmied$225
Hudson$165
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 37Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 37 1/19/11 2:25 PM1/19/11 2:25 PM
38
The Row
The RowThe Row
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 38Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 38 1/15/11 11:08 AM1/15/11 11:08 AM
39
SMILE, it’sBOSS Black
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 39Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 39 1/15/11 11:08 AM1/15/11 11:08 AM
40
Jaso
n W
u
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 40Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 40 1/15/11 11:08 AM1/15/11 11:08 AM
41
Hugo Boss
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 41Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 41 1/19/11 2:43 PM1/19/11 2:43 PM
42 FIN
ESSE
D T
O IM
PRES
S
Jil Sander
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 42Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 42 1/15/11 11:09 AM1/15/11 11:09 AM
43
Ermenegildo Zegna
Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 43Final_Pages_Fashion.indd 43 1/15/11 11:09 AM1/15/11 11:09 AM
EVENTS
44
Stay Current at marios.comFind the latest information on designer fashions for both men and women as well as jewelry, apothecary, gifts, special events and personal appearances. In addition, see our recommendations for living in style, including our favorite restaurants, hotels, spas, salons and entertainment. Sign up for email today. Increase sustainability and reduce mail.
Personal ShoppingWelcome to our store–we’ll happily take your coat and offer you a complimentary beverage. And if you like, one of our sales associates can pre-select garments that fi t your style and notify you of their arrival.
Complimentary Tailoring Our on-site tailors will work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fi t customized just for you.
SERVICES
Made-2-MeasureSelect the fi t, fabric and other details to complement your personal style. We offer a wide variety of models and fabrications, so you can be your own designer. Plus, we will keep your measurements on fi le and update them for you as needed.
Home Delivery & ShoppingWe can arrange to ship anywhere in the United States. Or, if you’re in town, we can also set up a courier service for you.
Mario’s Gift CardsGift cards are available for any amount you like—tastefully presented and ready to give.
Gift WrapEnjoy complimentary gift wrap in our signature packaging with all of your Mario’s purchases.
Shoe RepairFor your convenience, we will arrange the repair of any footwear purchased in our stores.
Jewelry Cleaning & RepairWe can arrange for cleaning or expert repair service for any jewelry that has been purchased in our stores.
We Gladly Accept Debit Cards, American Express, Diner’s Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa as well as International Visa.
Store HoursPortland & Seattle Monday to Saturday 10 to 6Sunday 12 to 5Bridgeport VillageMonday to Saturday 10 to 6:30Sunday 12 to 6
Isaia Spring 2011 M-2-M* Trunk Show MenFriday, March 4 (Downtown Seattle)Saturday, March 5 (Downtown Portland)
MAR.10 Event (Mar.10 spells MARIO) Men & WomenThursday, March 10 (Downtown Seattle, Downtown Portland and Bridgeport Village)
Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2011 Trunk Show Men Friday, March 11 to Saturday, March 12 (Downtown Seattle)
Bontoni Shoes M-2-M* Event MenThursday, March 17 to Friday, March 18 (Downtown Portland)Saturday, March 19 (Downtown Seattle)
Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2011 M-2-M* Trunk Show MenFriday, March 18 (Downtown Portland)Saturday, March 19 (Downtown Seattle)
Helmut Lang Spring 2011 Event WomenThursday, March 24 (Downtown Portland)Saturday, March 26 (Downtown Seattle)
Dean Harris Jewelry Trunk Show & Personal Appearance WomenFriday, April 1 to Saturday, April 2 (Downtown Seattle)
Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2011 Trunk ShowFriday, April 1 to Saturday, April 2 (Downtown Portland) Men & WomenTuesday, April 26 to Wednesday, April 27 (Downtown Seattle) Women
The Row Fall 2011 Trunk Show WomenThursday, April 7 (Downtown Portland)Friday, April 8 (Downtown Seattle)All dates and times are subject to change. Please visit marios.com
for our most current information. *M-2-M = Made-2-Measure.
Here’s just some of the excitement in store for you.
Find us on Facebook.
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 44Final_Pages_Misc.indd 44 2/3/11 4:45 PM2/3/11 4:45 PM
40923HOODED JACKET IN ULTRA LIGHT MATTE NYLON, LAMINATED WITH A WATERPROOF, WINDPROOF AND BREATHABLE MEMBRANE. DIAGONAL ZIP-FASTENING POCKETS EDGED WITH TAPE. APPLIQUÉ OF TWO PARALLEL VERTICAL STRINGS ON THE FRONT UNDER THE COLLAR. ZIP FASTENING EDGED WITH TAPE. GARMENT DYED.
MAR_P45_StoneIslnd.ps - 1/25/2011 7:03 PM
Q:How do I pack for a weekend away? (It seems I need almost as much stuff for a
weekend as for a full week….)The trick is to first envision yourself at your weekend events andthen edit down: there’s no shame in wearing the same thing twice andit’s worth it to avoid checking luggage. Here are a few more tips: • Wear the bulkiest pieces on the plane: the sportcoat or suit jacket, plus a sweater or
coat. • Place a rolled up tie and socks in each shoe. Put shoes in a drawstring shoe bag (or a
plain plastic bag) to protect your clothes.• Place the heaviest items at the bottom of the suitcase: shoes, sneakers, dopp kit and
gadgets. Place rolled up T-shirts and underwear along the sides of the suitcase.• If you’re packing a suit or sportcoat, turn the jacket inside out and fold into quarters
(the first fold should be across the center of the back). On arrival, hang it in the bath-room and take a steamy shower to remove creases.
• Placing layers of tissue between clothes does not really do much. Instead, take plasticdry cleaning bags from your local store and place over each garment when on thehanger. Then slide the hanger out and fold. The plastic layer helps prevent wrinkles.Hang upon arrival and if needed, steam out in the bathroom while the shower is run-ning and let it hang out overnight.
As for specific items to bring, here are the general guidelines:
1 blazer or sportcoat1 woven shirt2 knit shirts (polo or tee)1 sweater, sweatshirt
or light jacket1 pair jeans
1 pair casual pants and/or shorts
1 swimsuit 1 pair comfortable shoes1 belt2-3 pair socks and underwear
46
Q:I’m confused: withslimmer pants in
vogue, where shouldpants break these days?For most narrow-leg flat-front styles, the bottom ofthe pants should stop aninch above the sole of theshoe. This creates a smallbreak (a fold in the crease inthe front of the pants) at theankle. But for fashionistas,it’s fine to show some sock,which generally meansexposing about an inch ofankle.
For the record, pleatedpants still look best with acuff to balance out the fabricat the waist. And ironically,now that American menhave finally gotten used toflat-fronts, European run-ways are showing pleats. Buttheir trendier versions haveexcess fabric gathered at thewaist, flowing into a verynarrow leg. That said, we’renot expecting these carrot-shaped pants to catch on forquite some time...if ever.
MARIO ANSWERSYOUR PRESSING
STYLE QUESTIONS.
ASKMARIOMAR_Mario's_ Ask Mario.qxp:MAR_P 2/2/11 4:20 PM Page 46
Isaia:Layout 1 1/11/11 4:28 PM Page 1
I love skinny jeans, but what are some of my other options for spring?Think skirts! Pencil skirts look fresh again and work well withthose longer soft tops you wear with leggings. Long print skirts anddresses are a fun, easy way to go; floral prints from Suno or junglesarongs from Lanvin look great with simple T-shirts or tank tops layered with a shawl orcardigan. There are also lots of easy, soft cotton cropped pants and cargo options (likethe 7 For All Mankind pair pictured at left) at both contemporary and designer price-points. The Row and Cucinelli also offer comfortable choices with lots of fit options.High-waisted pants with a slight flare are also an on-trend silhouette, best worn with awedge shoe and pretty printed blouse.
I travel for business and would love to find versatile pieces that don’t wrinkle; any ideas?You can’t go wrong with natural fabrics. Pack in plastic bags or good travel bags; youcan always hang out your clothes in a steamy bathroom for a quick refresh.
For maximum ease, stick to one neutral color story (black, navy, beige) for your baseand then pop some color for fun. Depending on your business, take a suit in a light-weight stretch wool from Akris or Hugo Boss and/or a little black dress (making acomeback) from Jason Wu. A print jersey dress from Pucci or Thakoon is also a greatpiece for travel and nice for a special dinner. Add a cardigan from Clare Tough, Casmarior Prada and a stretch cotton white shirt from Cucinelli and you’re set!
Also for travel, a raincoat from Moncler is a must! A new trench with ruffles or gath-ers packs well and easily layers over your knits and suits. The new higher waist bootcutjeans are great to travel in, especially with a knit top and raincoat. Add your favoriteboots and/or mid-high heels, a colorful scarf form Faliero Sarti and a Celine travel bagand you’re good to go anywhere!
What are the must-have accessories for spring 2011?This season, bags and shoes are about color and texture. Choices run form ladylike tobohemian. Check out the beautiful sea blues and greens from Prada and Bottega Venetaor the beaded jewel earth tones from Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin. Thereare many flat options to choose from, as well as strappy sandals in snakes and lizards orbright citrus colors. Tall, embellished strappy heels are still happening, both in colorand neutrals. (You might need both!) Big totes are still important and practical, often intextures or colors. And there’s lots of newness in mid-size clutches and smaller printbags (B. May is one of our favorites). Check them out, and remember: the accessoriesmake the look!
48
MARIO’S STYLESAVVY FASHIONDIRECTOR HELPSWITH YOUR FASH-ION DILEMMAS.
ASKLYNWOODMAR_Mario's_ Ask Lynwood .qxp:MAR_P 2/2/11 4:11 PM Page 48
Cucinelli:Layout 1 1/5/11 3:46 PM Page 1
desig
ner p
rofil
e
As luxury companies strive toupdate product and image, onecompany stands as a paragon ofall that is modern, edgy, urbane.Hugo Boss, founded in 1924 andheadquartered in Metzingen,Germany, has long been theessence of international style andthe source of directional trends.
How to maintain this distinc-tion? For Hugo Boss, it’s a focuson fashion, but also art, culture,sports, celebrity, philanthropy, allkey elements of fine living.
Here, we speak with their U.S.president Mark Brashear aboutcurrent and future business.What are the most impor-tant items and trends formen in spring 2011?Two important directions are:1) denim-driven sportswear fromBOSS Orange, and 2) BOSSGreen, which is active, technicalsportswear. What do most men do wrongwhen dressing? Men tend to want suits that are asize too big, thinking that loose iscomfortable. They don’t realizethat oversized is not flattering.
Sticking to a trimmer silhouettewith flat-front pants can make anyman look instantly younger. What’s new and exciting inyour women’s collections? The BOSS Orange collection con-tinues to expand. Inspired by thewarm weather of L.A., it offerslightweight tops for layering overjeans or flowy skirts. BOSS Blackshowcases stylish daywear inmuted colors, punched up withgreat accessories. Our ad cam-paign, shot by Mario Sorrenti fea-turing Mark Vanderloo andRacquel Zimmerman, reflects theline’s sexy sophistication and hasbeen incredibly well received. What’s next for BOSS?We recently signed a multi-yearsponsorship of Madison SquareGarden and the New York Knicks.We continue to sponsor the pres-tigious Hugo Boss Prize at theGuggenheim museum. And todaymore than ever, we’re using mar-ket intelligence to ensure our cus-tomers get all they expect fromour brands. The ability to deliveron our promises is a cornerstonefor today and tomorrow.
50
THEY MAKE GREAT CLOTHES, BUT HUGO BOSS IS MUCH MORE THAN FASHION. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
FORWARDTHINKING
“STICKING TO A TRIMMER SILHOUETTE CAN MAKEANY MAN LOOK INSTANTLY YOUNGER.”
27_Mario's_Designer Profile_Hugo Boss .qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:44 PM Page 50
MAR_Hudson:Layout 1 1/11/11 4:37 PM Page 1
A heritage of Swedish designand innovation since 1928
Eton_Ad:Layout 1 1/4/11 11:43 AM Page 1
SARTORIALTHE CLASSICNAVY BLAZERPAIRED WITHBOLD SHIRT ANDTIE, ELEGANTTROUSERS ANDBROWN SUEDESHOES TAKESYOU ANYWHEREAND EVERY-WHERE, SCORINGPOINTS ALONGTHE WAY
A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates fromprep school to country club and travels with global sophistication.
CELEBRATINGTHE ICONICBLUE BLAZERPhotographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR
MAR_Mario's_Fashion_Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer.qxp:MAR_P 2/4/11 8:24 AM Page 53
NAUTICALEASE INTOSPRING WITH AKNIT BLAZER FORTHE ULTIMATE INCOMFORT ANDCOOL. PAIR ITWITH FURNISH-INGS THAT POP,CRISP WHITETROUSERS ANDCLASSIC BOATSHOES. YOU’REREADY FOR THECAPTAIN’S TABLE
27_Mario's_Fashion_Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer.qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:46 PM Page 54
EURO-LAYEREDPILE IT ON, BUTGENTLY! STARTWITH A SOFTWHITE POLO,ADD A FINE COT-TON SHIRT, SLIM-CUT BLAZER,CARGO PANTSAND SUEDEWINGTIPS. CASU-ALLY DRAPE ACASHMERESWEATER FORGOOD MEASURE.MAGNIFICO!
AS
SO
CIA
TE
ED
ITO
R:
TA
RA
FE
RR
I; G
RO
OM
ING
: M
AR
K L
EY
LA
ND
; M
OD
ELS
: P
AR
KE
R H
UR
LE
Y-R
ED
MO
DE
L M
AN
AG
EM
EN
T;
PA
UL F
RA
NC
IS-Q
MO
DE
LS
; A
SS
IST
AN
T:
JU
LIO
FR
IAS
; P
RO
PS
: P
RO
PS
FO
R T
OD
AY
MAR_Mario's_Fashion_Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer.qxp:MAR_P 2/4/11 8:24 AM Page 55
PREP COOLMINIMUM EFFORT, MAXI-MUM IMPACT INAN ITALIAN VER-SION OF THENAVY BLAZER,BOLD PIQUEKNIT POLO,ROLLED-UPTROUSERS ANDCLASSIC SNEAKERS.DON’T FORGETTHE EYEWEAR:BIGGER IS BET-TER THIS SEASON
MAR_Mario's_Fashion_Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer.qxp:MAR_P 2/4/11 10:22 AM Page 56
MODERNYOU CAN TRYTHIS AT HOME!MIX A GREATBLAZER WITHPREMIUM DENIM(DARK IS BEST), APATTERNEDSHIRT AND FABULOUSSHOES. FLAUNTYOUR PERSONALSTYLE AND MAKETHE BLAZERLOOK YOUR OWN
MAR_Mario's_Fashion_Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer.qxp:MAR_P 2/4/11 10:22 AM Page 57
Fashionable menagree that acces-sorizing is themake-it-or-break-itof great style, andpocket squares arean effortless way toadd interest to yourlook. They can beworn on almost anyoccasion (see theproof here) andthey come in anincredible array offabrics, patternsand colors.
With such aplethora ofoptions, we
acce
ssor
ies
ITS ASSETS ARE ENDLESS AND ITSDRAWBACKS FEW. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
ODE TO THE POCKETSQUARE
Casual CoolProof positive that pocketsquares don’t have to bestuffy. Worn with a softcoat and linen shorts, thesmall peek of pattern isfun and makes the outfitfeel finished. If youhaven’t yet mastered theart of polished casual, it’stime to bring yourwardrobe up to speed.
Unexpected EdgeThe classic way to don a pocket squareis with a beautifully tailored suit. Here,
it’s white linen in a three point fold.(Three and four point folds also pair wellwith double breasted blazers—a growing
trend—since pointy peaks highlight thejacket’s architectural construction.)
Extra style points to the man confidentenough to add a small bloom to his lapel.
“Pocket squares are like themood ring of men’s fashion!”
—Tyler Mitchell, specialty store merchant
HUB_Accessories_Ode to the Pocket Square 6.qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:48 PM Page 58
won’t bore youhere with lists offolds (there areat least 15!) andstep-by-step how-to’s. The internet is agreat resource forinstructional videosand style inspiration,or better yet, comeinto the store andour expert stylistswill teach you thebasics and send youhome with a squarefor every circum-stance.
RU
NW
AY
IM
AG
ES
ER
ME
NE
GIL
DO
ZE
GN
A.
PR
OD
UC
T I
MA
GE
S E
TR
O
“YOU’LL GET APPROVING NODS FROMOLDER GENTLEMEN FOR WHOM A
POCKET SQUARE HAS ALWAYSBEEN LIKE A FRIEND. AND THEWOMEN YOU MEET…WELL, YOUWILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN
THEIR LINGERING GLANCES ANDTHE GLINT IN THEIR EYES AS THEY
SURVEY YOUR ATTIRE.”—ASKMEN.COM
www.roberttalbott .com
HUB_Accessories_Ode to the Pocket Square 6.qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:48 PM Page 59
desig
ner p
rofil
e
Time, traditionand precisionhave long heldsway over theItalian tailor’scraft. So whenbrothersMario, Stefanoand PierluigiBoglioli defied tradition by takingessential components (padding,inner linings) out of the classicmen’s jacket and then doing theunthinkable (garment washing it),the third generation clothiers liter-ally took the stuffiness out ofItalian suit making. The Boglioliboys not only rethought how thesuit is made, but how it’s worn.
In the early 1990s, “many
brands were producing gar-ment-dyed T-shirts, knitwear,
or trousers, but no one hadtried it on jackets,” recallsyoungest brother and cre-ative director Pierluigi
Boglioli, who came up withthe idea to take a classic
Neapolitan-style jacket with allits sartorial underpinnings andtoss it in the washer. Although theimmediate results were not as hehad hoped, through trial and errorand some construction tweaks,the company eventually devel-oped its K Jacket, an un-con-structed cashmere blazer with awashed look and the feel of a well-worn sweater.
This spring Boglioli continues to
add to its list of accomplishmentswith the introduction of the Dover2 jacket, a versatile topper incorpo-rating small shoulder pads, and theK Jacket 2, which is updated incashmere, linen and new cottoncrepe versions.
Though the company has a 100-year history, it was the current gen-eration, who began making clothingunder their own family name in2000, that gave the brand its inter-national presence with their un-suit-like sense of style some havedubbed “worn-in luxury.”
“I take pride in the fact that ourgarment-dyed or un-constructedjackets have created the neo-for-mal style for the next generation,”concludes Boglioli.
lived-in LUXURY
60
“OUR GARMENT-DYEDUN-CONSTRUCTED
JACKETS HAVECREATED THE
NEO-FORMAL STYLEFOR THE NEXTGENERATION.”
BOGLIOLI DECONSTRUCTS THE MODERN SPORTCOAT. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
MAR_Designer Profile_Boglioli 6.qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:49 PM Page 60
Gardeur:Layout 1 1/5/11 4:35 PM Page 1
inspir
ation
More than two decades after hisuntimely death, Andy Warhol’sbold imprint on fashion remainsstrong and vibrant. Then and now,The Warhol Look reflects theartist’s distinct blend of fashion,glamour and style. And no matterhow it’s framed—runway show,museum exhibition, window dis-play, or magazine illustration—Warhol’s work has a uniquely time-less appeal.
In the second half of the 20thcentury, The Warhol Look reignedsupreme. The artist’s influencecrossed genres, genders and gen-erations as his work grew moreexpansive and popular. It was con-troversial. It was iconic, yet con-temporary. And it constantlychanged to reflect the times...justas Warhol had hoped.
His diversity of styles (those hecreated through his art as well asembodied in appearance anddemeanor) still offer limitlessinspiration for today’s artisans.Pop Art has been “embraced anddisseminated by the fashion indus-try,” says art historian MarcoLivingstone.
Warhol’s bold color palette,
strongly influenced by his vastFiestaware collection, is consid-ered at the same time nostalgicand nouveau. And his glamoroussubjects—Marilyn Monroe,Elizabeth Taylor and EdieSedgwick to name but a few—still
fascinate and inspire designs onand off the runway.
According to Alice Mackrell’sbook Art and Fashion, designerYves Saint Laurent considered hisgreat friend Warhol to be “inspir-ing in everything he did.” For
62
FASHION, GLAMOUR ANDSTYLE, THEN AND NOW. BY CALLY JAMISVENNARE
theWarhollook
Warhol SelfPortrait, ninecanvases1966
DIG
ITA
L I
MA
GE
© T
HE
MU
SE
UM
OF
MO
DE
RN
AR
T/L
ICE
NS
ED
BY
SC
ALA
/ A
RT
RE
SO
UR
CE
, N
Y
MAR_Inspiration_The Warhol Look Q6.qxp:MAR_P 2/3/11 10:23 AM Page 62
Icotex.ps - 12/31/2009 10:26 AM
64
Betsey Johnson and other accom-plished designers, the WarholLook was manifested in dressesmade from paper, plastic andmetal. Other prominent examplesinclude Jean-Charles deCastelbajac’s vibrant dresses print-ed with Warhol motifs, GianniVersace’s “Marilyn Monroe” dressand Philip Treacy’s limited editioncollection of hats and bags featur-ing iconic Warhol images.
And at spring 2011 New YorkFashion Week, Diane vonFurstenberg channeled her veryown Andy Warhol portrait throughblaring pink lips on the otherwisefresh faces of her runway models.“At some point in the creativeprocess we pulled the picture,”noted von Furstenberg onstylelist.com. “I was young in the’70s and all these clothes remindme of my youth.”
Warhol’s influence reached fur-ther than fashion, to commercialand fine art, filmmaking, and pub-lishing. In fact, his Interview maga-zine is considered by many to bethe pinnacle of the artist’s obses-sion with style. “Interview was thefirst pop culture magazine,” saysPaige Powell, its former associatepublisher. “It set trends rather thanfollowed them. It was in themoment, not dated.” Not surpris-ingly, Warhol’s passion for celebri-ty led to his creation of Interview.“He wanted to be part of the city ina bigger way…and felt if he had afilm magazine, they would let himinto the premieres. And they did!”
Moreover, The Warhol Look (thecatalog supporting the 1997 to1999 exhibition of the same name)also established that “today’smerging of art and fashion is inlarge measure the legacy of Andy
Warhol” and that “fashionis the connective tissuejoining what previouslyappeared as disparateelements” in his work.
The Andy WarholMuseum, which organizedthe exhibition The WarholLook, is one of the most compre-hensive single-artist museums inthe world. At the end of their 15thanniversary celebration, the muse-um’s former director, TomSokolowski, and archival staff pro-vided the following examples togive us a deeper appreciation ofWarhol’s expansive footprint.
MODELS & MUSICIn the mid-1960s, Warhol featuredmany fashion models in his films.This was especially evident in hisseries of Screen Test portrait filmsthat included blonde “Baby Jane”Holzer (a sought-after fashionmodel among David Bailey and
other top photographers and thewoman who introduced Warhol toMick Jagger), leggy Donyale Luna(the first African-American super-model), icy Nico (a former modelturned musician with ties to BobDylan, Brian Jones, and ultimately,The Velvet Underground), and IvyNicholson (a top cover girl of theearly 1960s).
GLAMOUR & FILMIn 1965 Warhol made more than 10films (and numerous publicappearances) with Edie Sedgwick,the trendsetting tragic beauty whois still regarded as a fashion icon.The films include Beauty #2, PoorLittle Rich Girl, Face, Lupe andKitchen, among others.
DESIGNERS &TELEVISION
After years ofsocializing withfashion design-ers such as
Halston (whosecocktail dress of
light, slinky fabricwas printed with Warhol’s
bold, bright 1965 Flowers image),in 1979 Warhol produced a multi-part television series titledFashion, which focused on thework of the top designers of theday.
In later TV series in the mid-1980s, Andy Warhol’s TV and AndyWarhol’s Fifteen Minutes, Warholcontinued to present the work of(at the time) current designerssuch as Stephen Sprouse, whobased an entire season’s line onWarhol’s Camouflage paintings.
To learn more, visit The Warholin downtown Pittsburgh, or go towww.warhol.org.
The SouperDress, paper1966-67
TODAY’S MERGINGOF ART AND FASH-ION IS IN LARGE
MEASURE THE LEGACY OF
ANDY WARHOL.
IMA
GE
© T
HE
ME
TR
OP
OL
ITA
N M
US
EU
M O
F A
RT
/ A
RT
RE
SO
UR
CE
, N
Y
MAR_Inspiration_The Warhol Look Q6.qxp:MAR_P 2/3/11 10:23 AM Page 64
Hiltl_Ad:Layout 1 1/4/11 10:29 AM Page 1
FASH
ION
IND
EX
37Mulholland Bag $325. Walkover Shoe $225. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $225. Hudson Jean $165.
38The Row Top $990 and Pant $375. K.Jacques Shoe $270.
39Boss Black Sportcoat $445, Shirt $145 and Trouser $145.
40Jason Wu Dress $1645.
41Hugo Boss Suit $895, Shirt $165 and Tie $95.
42 Jil Sander Dress $1645.
43Ermenegildo Zegna Suit $2395, Shirt $335 and Tie $195.
27 On Her: Brunello Cucinelli Jacket $2100, Scarf $1040, Top $1065, Belt $480, Pant $2490, Shoe $710 and Handbag $1415. On Him: Brunello Cucinelli Sportcoat $1475, Shirt $495, Trouser $495, Belt $495 and Shoe $795.
28Dean Harris Ebony / 18K Gold Earring $750, Ebony / 18K Gold Earring $700, Ebony / Carnelian / 18K Gold Necklace $1150 and Ebony / Citrine Necklace / 18K Gold Necklace $1500.
29On Him: Paul Smith Jacket $695, Shirt $275 and Bracelet $95. Agave Jean $235. On Her: L’Agence Jacket $575, Top $178 and Short $246. K.Jaques Shoe $238.
30Diesel Black Gold Jacket $800, Top $180and Pant $350. K.Jacques Shoe $295.
31Alberto Fermani Shoe $345.
32B.May Handbag $425. Clare Tough Cardigan $998 and Cami $675. Twenty Top $145. Alberto Fermani Shoe $345.
33Casadei Shoe $720. Moncler Jacket $950. Clare Tough Cardigan $1078 and Cami $578. Casadei Shoe $750.
34On Him: Edun Sportcoat $398, T-Shirt $60 and Jean $238.On Her: Edun Dress $258 and Wrap Top $348. K.Jacques Shoe $295.
35AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $188. 7 for all Mankind Jean $189. Hudson Jean $198.
36Will Leather Goods Belts $145. Boss Black Shirt $175. John Varvatos Shoe $175. Mason’s Short $150 and Short $165. Lacoste Vintage Shirt $85.
14On Him: Vince Cardigan $335, Sweater $225, T-Shirt $110 and Trouser $198. On Her: Vince Jacket $895, T-Shirt $48 and Pant $210. K.Jacques Shoe $255.
15On Her: Moncler Jacket $750. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $188. On Him: Moncler Jacket $695. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $225.
16Peter Cohen Top $425. Paige Premium Denim $189.
17 Diesel Jacket $800, T-Shirt $180 and Jean $280.
18Irene Neuwirth 18k Gold / Carnelian Earring $2700, 18k Gold / Pink Opal Earring $2700 and 18k Gold / Rose of France Earring $3810.
19Narciso Rodriguez Dress $2775.
20On Her: Boss Orange Dress $325. On Him: Boss Orange Cardigan $225, Shirt $115 and Jean $165.
21On Her: Lanvin Dress $1610, Handbag $2250 and Shoe $795.On Him: Lanvin Cardigan $995, Shirt $425, Bow Tie $300, Trouser $495 and Shoe $475.
22 Isaia Suit $2995, Shirt $395 and Tie $195.
23 On Her: Hudson Collection Jacket $590, Hoodie $128 and Jean $325. On Him: Stone Island Jacket $495 and Shirt $195. Hudson Jean $264.
24 On Her: Etro Dress $2378. Lanvin Shoe $795. On Him: Etro Suit $1795 and Shirt $255.
25Ralph Lauren Black Label Suit $1595,Shirt $295 and Tie $135.
26Steven Alan Shirt $225. Edwin Jean $280.
For more information, please call: Downtown Portland 503.227.3477
Downtown Seattle 206.223.1461Mario’s 3.10 at Bridgeport Village 503.601.7310
Final_Pages_Misc.indd 66Final_Pages_Misc.indd 66 2/3/11 4:45 PM2/3/11 4:45 PM
Corneliani_Ad:Layout 1 1/4/11 9:57 AM Page 2
Ask Gianluca Isaia to describe hiseponymous collection of men’ssuits and sportswear and he’ll tellyou that it fits comfortably in themiddle between classic and con-temporary. “We offer the quality ofmore traditional luxury brands butwith the styling of high fashionlabels,” says Isaia (above), ananomaly among Italian menswearmakers who is known for wearinginexpensive leather fisherman san-dals with his impeccably tailoredcashmere suits. The offbeat combi-nation is the boyish designer’s wayof illustrating the incredible versa-tility of his clothing.
Men today want the freedom tomix denim with their pinstripe suitjackets, says Isaia, whose colorfulclothing is made in Naples. Suchidiosyncratic dressing, he insists,is not a sign of “a guy who doesn’tknow how to decide” but ratherthat of a man “who is comfortable[enough] in his own skin to createa style that is uniquely his own.”
The line includes jackets cutwith the same slightly pinchedshoulder and high armhole foundon most handmade Neapolitangarments. Yet there are significantdifferences, including a relaxed butshapely waist and the company’s
own pignattiello pocket, shapedlike an Italian pot of the samename typically used to cook beans.Isaia’s trousers are athletic andlean, but not uncomfortably snug,and they are rarely pleated. Thestyle is Neapolitan, with an edge.
Since Isaia likes the look, but notthe weight, of vintage textiles, hedilligently searches through the54-year-old company’s treasuretrove of archival fabrics to findbold stripes and checks he canreproduce in modern color combi-nations. He’s also been known toinvent his own textiles: Afterspilling red wine on his pants,Isaia had the idea to developAquaSpider, the first all-naturalwool fabric in which the yarns arechemically treated to resist waterand stains while retaining softness.
Subsequent experiments result-ed in an entire range of Aqua fab-rics, including AquaCashmere,AquaChino (cotton) and, mostrecently, AquaLight, only half theweight of conventional wool.
Such fabrics give an incrediblelightness of being to many ofIsaia’s pieces. By mixing them withold world hand tailoring and mod-ern styling, Isaia has found a wayto, as he says, “offer a whole newdefinition of Neapolitan style tothe American man.”
68
ISAIA TOES THELINE BETWEEN
CLASSIC AND CON-TEMPORARY. BYWILLIAM KISSEL
NO ORDINARYMIDDLE MAN
desig
ner p
rofil
e
MAR_Designer Profile_Isaia 6.qxp:MAR_P 1/24/11 6:51 PM Page 68
Van Laack Forum SP 11.qxp:Layout 1 1/4/11 8:50 AM Page 1
ww
w.c
anal
i.it
Canali_Ad:Layout 1 1/4/11 9:58 AM Page 1
MA
RIO
’S F
OR
UM
SP
RIN
G 2
01
1
SPINE.ps - 1/26/20