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1 Magnetic Powered Shake-light EE In A Box, LLC. This presentation will take you through the steps to build your Magnetic Powered Shake-light Presented by Brandon Stevens from EE In A Box

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Page 1: Magnetic Powered Shakelight - Purdue University · 2019-07-08 · 0djqhwlf 3rzhuhg 6kdnh oljkw (( ,q $ %r[ //& 6xjjhvwhg wrrov iru wklv surmhfw 6pdoo (ohfwurqlf )oxvk &xwwhuv 6pdoo

1

Magnetic Powered Shake-light

EE In A Box, LLC.

This presentation will take you through the steps to build your Magnetic Powered Shake-light

Presented by Brandon Stevens from EE In A Box

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Magnetic Powered Shake-light

EE In A Box, LLC.

Suggested tools for this project: Small Electronic Flush Cutters

Small Needle-Nose Pliers

Soldering Iron Stand

Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner (Coiled Metal Pad)

Soldering Iron – 25-40 Watt (Pencil Style)

60/40 Rosin Core Solder

Wire Strippers

Pliers

Rubber Band

Safety Glasses

– A tool kit can be purchased with the needed specialty tools and supplies for soldering at www.eeinabox.com(search for “TOOL-1002”)

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Magnetic Powered Shake-light

EE In A Box, LLC.

Safety First! Make sure to always wear eye protection such as safety glasses or

eye glasses when working with electrical projects and soldering.

Use caution when working with a soldering iron. The metal parts on the iron can have temperatures in excess of 600 degrees.

Make sure to wash your hands when you finish working with solder, printed circuit boards, and electronic components. Lead is present and is poisonous to our bodies if it is ingested.

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Magnetic Powered Shake-light

EE In A Box, LLC.

Removing the Insulation– Read through the next 4 slides to see how to prepare the

wire and correctly remove the insulation.

– Also review the slide on what damage can occur to make sure you don’t damage the conductor when stripping the insulation.

– There is a pro tip on how to properly use a pair of wire strippers for best results and if used like this, it will minimize the chances of you damaging the conductor and will make the job easier to complete.

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Tips for Removing the Insulation– Use a wire stripper with the correct gauge hole or stop screw set

properly for 22 AWG or 22 GA wire.

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EE In A Box, LLC.

Tips for Removing the Insulation– Squeeze the wire stripper to close the jaws, but then release the

pressure to allow the jaws of the wire stripper to open allowing the wire to slide freely through the gauge hole and not dragging the cutter along the surface of the conductor.

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Remove the insulation from the wire– Strip ¼” of red insulation from both ends of both wires

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Inspect the conductor for any cuts, nicks or damage to the conductor.

Example of damage» The goal when removing or stripping the insulation from the wire is to NOT

damage, cut, or nick the conductor.

» Here is an example of what you DON’T want to do when removing the insulation. Notice the damage to the conductor.

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Do you remember what an insulator is?

Insulators do not allow electrons to flow freely through the material. This means that electricity will not pass through or travel in an insulator.

Can you name some good insulators?

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» Here are some good insulators. Plastic

Glass

Rubber

Dry Wood

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Installing Wires on the Coil Use needle nose pliers and bend a fish hook on

ONE END of each of the wires.

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Installing Wires on the Coil Install one of the wires with a hook through the

hole on the solder lug on the coil.

Use needle nose pliers to close up the hook to form a tight mechanical bond to the solder lug.

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Installing Wires on the Coil Repeat this for the second wire on the second

solder lug on the coil.

Use needle nose pliers to close up the hook to form a tight mechanical bond to the solder lug.

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Soldering the Connections Now that you have a good mechanical

connection (the wires are secured on the terminals so they won’t fall off the terminals) you will need to solder the terminals so that you have a reliable electrical connection.

You need several special tools and supplies to achieve a reliable solder joint.

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Tools Required for Soldering Soldering iron (not a soldering gun) – soldering

irons are much smaller and are sometimes called a soldering pencil since they are easy to grip and control and hold with your fingertips like you would with a pencil.

Soldering irons that are around 20-35 Watts are best for this type of soldering task.

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Solder Solder is required to join the metal wire to the

metal electrical terminal.

There are many different gauges of solder. The gauge of solder determines the volume of solder that is added to the terminal. You will want to use a size around 0.031” diameter. It is easier to add more solder than to have too much solder on the connection and then try to remove the excess solder.

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Solder For hobby projects it is easiest to use Rosin

Core Solder with a 60% Tin / 40% Lead composition. This is referred to as 60/40 solder.

This type of solder does contain Lead so care must be taken to wash your hands after holding the solder and never place the solder in your mouth to hold it while setting up your circuit to solder.

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Solder Rosin helps clean the joint and helps the solder

flow.

Rosin core solder can leave a yellowish residue that is not harmful to the electrical circuit.

Rosin can easily be cleaned from the join if you wish by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and an old toothbrush.

Protect your work area and eyes with safety glasses when working with chemicals.

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Solder Solder melts around 212-374 deg. Fahrenheit.

Use the heat of the junction to melt the solder, not the hot soldering iron.

Heat the junction with the iron, wait 2 seconds, use the hot junction to melt the solder, remove the solder, wait 2 seconds, remove the iron.

Only add enough solder to cover both the wire and the terminal being soldered.

Don’t burn or melt the insulation on the wire.

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Pro Tip Place the handle of your pliers or your flush

cutters through the center of the coil to help hold it in place and keep it from rolling around while you are soldering the connections.

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Solder

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Assembling your PCB (Printed Circuit Board) All electronic components will be installed from the top side of the

PCB. This is the side with the white silkscreen that shows the “footprint” of each component.

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Installing the diode The diode has a red body with a black band around one end.

Bend the legs of the diode to form a “U” shape.

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Installing the Diode Match the black band on the diode with the white line on the PCB

in the location that says “Diode.”

Insert the leads of the diode from the top of the PCB towards the bottom of the PCB.

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Pro Tip Press the diode all the way down until it is flat against the PCB.

Bend the legs at a 45 degree angle (not flat) on the back side. This will hold the diode on the board and allow you to solder the leads.

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Installing the Resistor The resistor has a tan body with three color bands around the body.

Bend the legs of the resistor to form a “U” shape.

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Installing the Resistor The resistor is not polarized so it can be installed in the PCB from

the top in either direction.

The resistor is installed on the PCB where the zig-zag line is. This is the schematic symbol for a resistor.

Insert the leads of the resistor from the top of the PCB towards the bottom of the PCB.

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Pro Tip Press the resistor all the way down until it is flat against the PCB.

Bend the legs at a 45 degree angle (not flat) on the back side. This will hold the resistor on the board and allow you to solder the leads.

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The back side should look like this once you install the diode and resistor. The legs should be bent at a 45 degree angle to allow solder to flow all the way around the entire pad on the PCB when you solder each lead.

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Pro Tip Use a pair of pliers with a rubber band around

the handle to hold your PCB while soldering. Use a rubber band that applies light pressure to hold the PCB in place.

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Soldering First, clean the tip of your iron by POKING (not wiping) the tip into a metal tip

cleaning pad.

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Soldering Next, re-tin (wet) the tip of the clean soldering iron by touching the solder to the tip

of the soldering iron. Re-tinning or wetting the tip of the soldering iron will help transfer heat from the iron to the joint that you are soldering. You should only have a small amount and not a big ball of solder dripping off of your soldering iron tip.

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Soldering Check one more time to make sure the diode is installed correctly

and that both the diode and resistor bodies are touching the PCB.

Removing solder and components that have been soldered is very difficult and takes special tools and skills. You want to be sure to have everything right so that you don’t have to remove the solder.

You will want to solder the four leads for these components. It is best to solder one lead on each component and then check again if anything needs to be adjusted before completing the remaining lead on each component.

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Soldering Place your tip of your soldering iron so that it touches BOTH the

METAL FOIL on the PCB AND LEAD that you are soldering.

Let the connection heat up for 3 seconds.

Now touch the solder to the opposite side of the lead and test to see if the hot connection will melt the solder. Don’t touch the solder on the iron because the iron is always hot enough to melt the solder.

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Soldering After soldering is complete, trim the excess lead length off just at

the top of the solder joint using a sharp pair of electronic flush cutters. Place the flush side of the cutter towards the PCB and the angled part of the jaws away from the PCB. Use caution when you cut as the leads will fly off. Placing your finger on the end of the lead will keep it from flying off.

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Installing the LED (Light Emitting Diode) The LED is a polarized device and must be installed correctly for it

to produce light. The PCB has a footprint that shows a circle with a flat spot that matches the shape of the LED body. The LED also has one lead that is shorter and this short lead is the Cathode (negative) terminal. The PCB is marked with “LED flat” and this where the short lead is installed and the longer lead, which is the Anode (positive) terminal, goes in the hole that is labeled “LED”.

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Installing the LED (Light Emitting Diode) Install the LED like the other components, but you will not push

this one all the way down to the board. Once you get the LED close to the board, you will bend it so that it is close to the edge of the board, but points forward. This will allow it to point out of the front of the tube.

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Pro Tip Bend the leads at a 45 degree angle again to help hold this in place

so you can turn over the board and solder the LED onto the PCB.

Use your pliers to hold the board and solder both connections.

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Installing the LED (Light Emitting Diode) Trim the leads off just above the solder joints. Remember to be

careful to place your finger over the end of the lead to prevent it from flying when it is trimmed.

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Installing the coil on the pre-assembled tube Slide the coil on the tube and make sure the wires that are soldered

on the terminals of the coil point towards the open end of the tube.

Cut a 3” piece from the plastic straw.

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Installing the coil on the pre-assembled tube Cut a 4” to 6” piece of clear tape.

Put the straw through the hole in the tube and center it and bend it over towards the end with the red cap.

Use the clear tape and tape a band around the straw to hold it down.

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Installing the coil on the pre-assembled tube Place the wires from the coil into the hole on the side of the tube

and fish them out the open end of the tube. Both wires can go into one hole or one wire can go into each hole.

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Connecting the coil wires to the PCB Place the wires from the coil into each hole that says “COIL”.

Either wire can be placed in either hole on the PCB.

Push the wire all the way into the hole so the insulation is up against the PCB. No bare wire should be exposed on the top side of the board.

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Connecting the coil wires to the PCB Bend the ends of the wire over at a 45 degree angle on the back

side to help hold it in.

Use your pliers to hold the board and solder both wires in place. Check that the red insulation covers the wire all the way up to the PCB. If you need to heat up the joint and push the wire in after you solder it for the first time you can adjust the wire. Be careful with your fingertips and have someone help you do this procedure if you need to adjust the wire position.

After soldering is complete trim the wire just above the solder joint.

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Mid Assembly Test You can now test your circuit before you finish the rest of the

build.

Move the coil between the bumpers and wrap your hand around the coil and tube. Hold the coil in place while you shake the tube gently. With the circuit board hanging out of the end of the tube, gently shake the tube causing the magnet to pass back-and-fourth through the coil. Watch the LED and you will see the LED blink.

If the LED doesn’t blink make sure you are shaking the tube fast enough to generate electricity by passing the magnet through the coil.

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Troubleshooting the circuit if your LED doesn’t flash: Check each solder joint to make sure each component lead is

properly soldered to the PCB. Each of your solder joints should look like these, with a bright shinny finish.

If your solder joints don’t look like these, try to reheat them and if you need to add a tiny amount of solder you can do this at this time. Review the soldering steps at the beginning if you need to.

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Troubleshooting the circuit if your LED doesn’t flash: Verify that the diode is installed correctly. Remember this

component is polarized. The black band must match up with the white stripe on the PCB footprint.

If you need to remove the diode, you will have to use de-soldering tools to remove and re-install the diode.

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Troubleshooting the circuit if your LED doesn’t flash: Verify that the LED is installed correctly. Remember

this component is polarized. The flat spot must match up with the flat spot on the PCB footprint.

If you need to remove the LED, you will have to use de-soldering tools to remove and re-install the LED.

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Installing the capacitor The last electronic component that you will install is the capacitor.

Remember the capacitor is like a rechargeable battery. It stores electricity for a short amount of time to keep the LED lit while the magnet is not being passed through the coil to produce electricity.

The capacitor is also polarized and is marked in two different ways to identify the anode (positive terminal) and cathode (negative terminal)

The cathode (negative terminal) has a shorter lead and also you will see a “-” sign and white stripe on the side of the capacitor body.

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Installing the capacitor Install the capacitor on the PCB by matching up the polarity with

the “CAP+” and “CAP-”.

Don’t push the capacitor all the way down. Leave room so that you can bend the body of the capacitor over the end of the PCB so this will slide inside of the tube when completed.

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Installing the capacitor Use your pliers to hold the board and solder both leads on the

capacitor to the PCB.

Trim each lead off using your electronic side-cuts.

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Installing the finished circuit inside of the tube Carefully bend the wires over and along the side of the capacitor.

Guide the board into the open end of the tube.

Gently pull the excess wire back out of the hole on the side of the tube while you slide the circuit into the tube.

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Installing the finished circuit inside of the tube Make sure to slide the circuit and the LED all the way past the end

of the tube. You want the LED to be protected from damage by having it inside of the tube.

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Finishing the coil and wiring You can now gently spin the coil around on the tube and wrap the

wires in a spiral around the tube.

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Finish installing coil on pre-assembled tube The coil needs to be centered between the ends of the foam

bumpers.

Visually center the coil or use a ruler to center the coil. You can slide the magnet from side to side to help you determine how much space is between the end of the magnet and the body of the coil.

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Taping the coil on pre-assembled tube With the coil centered between the ends of the foam bumpers, you

can place a piece of tape over the coil or you can use tape and make a thick band just below the end of the coil on the clear tube next to the red cap to hold the position of the coil.

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Finishing the assembly Use the clear tape to cover the entire assembly from where the

wires exit the tube all the way over the red cap.

It helps to have one person turn the tube while another person holds the tape roll still and pulls on the tape to keep it nice and flat.

Other taping methods can be used, but make sure the wires and red cap are secured to the tube to prevent damage to parts.

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Shake, Shake, Shake! Now you have a working flashlight that never requires any batteries!

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Review of project. What type of electricity is produced when a

magnet passes through the coil? A.C. (Alternating Current) is produced and the wave form that

is produced is a sine wave. The sine wave is centered around 0V and produces an equal positive and negative voltage for each cycle of the magnet passing through the coil and back.

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Review of project. How does the PCB (printed circuit board)

work? The PCB is made up of non-conductive material and

conductive material. The electrical “wires” are called traces and pads. These traces and pads are thin layer of foil that is conductive and provides a path for the electrons to move through the circuit. You soldered your electronic components to the pads which allows the electricity to flow to the next component in the circuit. Remember you must have a complete path for electricity to flow through in order for the light to work.

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Review of project. What is the coil?

The coil is a continuous circle of special wire that looks like plain copper wire, but it has a coating on the outside that is a lacquer and is actually an insulator. This special wire is called magnet wire and is used in motors, coils, antennas and solenoids. This allows you to have many windings of the wire to create a path for electrons to flow through every time a magnet is passed through the coil of wire. You could use your typical rubber coated wire, but you would have a huge coil due the additional thickness added by the insulation.

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Review of project. What is the purpose of a diode?

A diode is a semi-conductor device. Think about the term semi-conductor. Semi means sometimes, so this device conducts electricity sometimes. This is useful in this circuit because the diode only conducts electricity in the positive voltage direction. This means that the diode in this circuit only allows the positive voltage to conduct from the coil to the rest of the lighting circuit. You can see by this illustration the coil produces a full wave signal (positive and negative voltage) and then rectifies the voltage to produce only positive voltage. The diode make the electricity flow like a one-way street.

By Wdwd - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12693362

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Review of project. How does a capacitor work?

The capacitor works like a rechargeable battery. As the coil produces electricity, it produces more electricity than what the LED uses so the excess energy is stored in the capacitor and when you stop shaking the light and the magnet is no longer passing through the coil, the capacitor then has stored energy to power the LED for a short period of time.

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Review of project. What is a LED (Light Emitting Diode)?

The name says it all! It’s a diode that emits light. As simple as that sounds, let’s learn a little more about this electronic device. Just like you learned that a diode rectifies A.C. (Alternating Current) electricity into D.C. (Direct Current) electricity, the LED is similar in that this device only works with D.C. electric current. This device is polarized so in order for it to produce light, the voltage on the anode (positive) terminal must be at a voltage around 1.7 volts more than the electrical potential on the cathode (negative) terminal.

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Review of project. How does a resistor work?

The name gives away the function of the device. It resist or slows down the flow of electrons in a circuit. Resistors also produce a by-product that can either be useful or a cause of concern. Can you guess what this byproduct is? It’s HEAT! If you use a toaster to make toast, the heating elements are large resistors that produce heat. This circuit only has a small amount of electricity present, so you will not feel any heat dissipated from this resistor, but it does slow down the flow of electrons which makes the light shine for a longer amount of time.

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Review of project. Schematic

The electrical schematic shows how the circuit is wired and what components are connected to form the circuit. This shows the electrical path, but the PCB does not have the same locations for the electronic components, but they are connected electrically as shown in this schematic.

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Pre-Judge your project before taking it to your local fair. This is a great way to check your work and judge it to the same standards that the judge at your local fair will use.

https://extension.purdue.edu/4h/Documents/4-H_422c_W_Magnet-Powered_Flashlight_Judging_Sheet.pdf